I was in that general area a couple of years ago shooting a documentary about wine.
Nobody speaks english and its kinda expensive. But damn, the food is amazing! I would return for the food alone.
Just to give an example: One of the first nights we were at a restaurant and the owner wanted us to try a local delicacy called "lardo"
Its basically just fat and nobody wanted to try it, so just to prove I wasn't a pussy i tried and holy shit, it was amazing!
And I'm not event a big meat lover.
Cant really remember anything from Livorno exept that I was there. I lived in a small village named Gavorrano a couple hours away, one of the coolest places I ever seen. Located on the top of a mountain with narrow winding streets and ivy everywhere.
I strongly recommend you to go to some wine-tasting things, its awesome. You walk around half buzzed while some passionate guy talks about different grapes and barrels and whatnot. I love listening to people that are super into what they are doing, I can listen to stuff like that all day.
I can't remember the name of any restaurants or wineries right now, but I can try to dig some if you are interested.
Shit, now I want to go back