hardware tightness?

[switchfrontshuv]

over the rough Canadian winter I did what anyone would have done in my situation which was to eat and not do anything related to exercise so here I am middle of march running out of breath after skating for 5 min
The only issue I have is that I crack boards when I land improperly off stairs that are bigger than 3 sets, which is super fucking wack since I like 2 skate stairs
dw tho im not a lazy cunt, currently cut from 194 - 185 pounds and aiming for 175 by the middle of April

That being said is there any truth to the old saying that if you tighten your bolts too much, decks will split and crack much easier? I tighten my 7/8 bolts till the screw reaches the rubber fastener (thunder team baseplate) so I dont over tighten my shit but does anyone know if hardware tightness has any (if at all) significant effect on decks?

[Uncle Flea]

When I first set up I use a tool but day to day I use my fingers mostly. I like rattling bolts. I don't mind oval holes.

[phlap]

I screw it it as tight as it'll go. I like having a few threads showing past the nylon.

I also can't stand oval bolt-holes. Makes it super unreliable to know what direction my board is going to want to veer towards when I throw it down.

[OldCandy]

ugh loose hardware is the worse.

i make it snug and cozy, i hate oval holes and dented mounting

[Rubbrick]

I tighten it enough so the head of the bolts sit flush with the grip, or just barely below (on a freshie). If you’re sinking it far below the grip, I think it’s too tight. I’d imagine cranking it down all the way would lead to more pressure cracks, but I’m no Professor Schmidt.

Also, please keep us updated on your weight loss goals. We’ll be checking in come April

[Mbrimson88]

Smaller heads on the hardware makes it easier to tighten down and have them just below grip, along with needing to make sure they are tight enough down that the nylock holds the nut on and not come loose, which often happens when shorter deck bolts are not done up enough.  Some brands of deck bolts like Shortys come with low nuts in the 7/8" packs, which is why I like them as they fit perfectly on regular baseplates done up just right, with the smaller heads nicely into the grip.  Other brands have the regular nuts, which on regular baseplates with 7/8" bolts, often cannot be done up tight enough without pulling them into the wood a long way.  This is where 1" deck bolts are usually a safer option.

As for the pressure on the board, there are more breaks from the upward cut of the baseplate into the truck than anything to do with the hardware, so when you land too hard on the nose or tail, the board flexes and the truck edge puts pressure on the deck.

If you round off the edge of the baseplate, mainly at the inside edge in front of the kingpin (but I know some people who do both ends), then it will not cause so much of a sharp pressure and give you a little more before the board will break.

Also using something like a thin rubber riser / bike tube / other similar thing with 1" bolts will prevent so much pressure from metal to wood as well, but I know a lot of people who will not do that and break a lot more boards because of it.

There are a few options anyway.


The other thing to note is for people who break a lot of boards, anything with carbon fibre, or other material will usually help the board last a lot longer and there are lots out there from a number of brands, which work out to be of reasonable value when you consider the extra cost beside how long the boards last.  These include but are not limited to Powell Flight decks, NHS VX decks (Creature, Santa Cruz), Crail Pop Secret (Girl, Chocolate) and there are a few options from Dwindle (Almost, Enjoi, etc) as well as other brands in specific areas / countries that use those same technologies, eg in Australia we have Elan Redline decks which hold up really well and Folklore Fibrelite too.

[Diocletian]

Flush with the grip and maybe an extra tiny turn or two for even more threads secured by the nylock. New hardware each new board. If you’re doing it any different, you’re doing it wrong. Never had an issue with ovalized bolt holes or hardware coming loose.

7/8” hardware with normal sized nuts isn’t very secure and probably why some people’s hardware comes loose. Barely any threads being secured by the nylock. Shorty’s 7/8”  hardware uses shorter nuts so more threads go through the nylock while also being a tiny bit lighter than normal hardware. 1” is what is needed for normal sized axle nuts. If you use 1/8” risers get 1 1/8” hardware. 1 1/4” hardware for 1/4” hardware.

[SneakySecrets]

Hand tighten, then foot tighten, then tool, then 16’ breaker bar, then use electron microscope to make sure they are flush, then say a little prayer, give each bolt a little kiss for good luck and I’m good to go, Jack.

[matty_c]

Just get a good impact or a rattle gun and just fucken send it

Tell me how it works out for you

[Mbrimson88]

Just get a good impact or a rattle gun and just fucken send it

Tell me how it works out for you

I could see someone just goes zero to full throttle and the bolt pulls straight through the board and is stuck to the truck.

Funny thinking about it.

[OldCandy]

Hand tighten, then foot tighten, then tool, then 16’ breaker bar, then use electron microscope to make sure they are flush, then say a little prayer, give each bolt a little kiss for good luck and I’m good to go, Jack.

i appreciate the wit in every gear thread

[GardenSkater77]

Hand tighten, then foot tighten, then tool, then 16’ breaker bar, then use electron microscope to make sure they are flush, then say a little prayer, give each bolt a little kiss for good luck and I’m good to go, Jack.

If you are not using a torque wrench you ain’t doing it right.

[Frank and Fred]

Flush with the grip and maybe an extra tiny turn or two for even more threads secured by the nylock. New hardware each new board. If you’re doing it any different, you’re doing it wrong. Never had an issue with ovalized bolt holes or hardware coming loose.

7/8” hardware with normal sized nuts isn’t very secure and probably why some people’s hardware comes loose. Barely any threads being secured by the nylock. Shorty’s 7/8”  hardware uses shorter nuts so more threads go through the nylock while also being a tiny bit lighter than normal hardware. 1” is what is needed for normal sized axle nuts. If you use 1/8” risers get 1 1/8” hardware. 1 1/4” hardware for 1/4” hardware.

New hardware each deck??? I've had hardware for years and it works just fine...

[Lou Strux]

If I’ve got a fresh deck on the set up, I’ll be sure to bring a tool along to the spot, as the hardware invariably loosens within the first session.
I take ‘em down to flush initially, then snug ‘em down as needed.
I hate a rattling set up, so I’ll usually give them a li’l check with the tool before I leave the house for a session.
When it comes to actual nuts & bolts, I prefer a 1”, even though I don’t run risers, as I like a little bit of thread engagement for peace of mind, in case I forget to snug ‘em in before I head out. I like a rebated/smaller bolt head, with no threading at the top of the shaft for bonus strength. Phillips, because I don’t wanna be caught out without the ability to set a rattle straight.
Did I mention I really don’t like a rattle in my set up? I’m

[Uncle Flea]

Idk. I feel like the truck wiggles are exciting. You land on it and do a little dance down the hill.

My bolts been right with venture tho so I think it's an thunder thing. I frickin love it

[dunc]

I’ve twisted it right through when watching telly while setting up a new board! Must have been a good show and smooth socket wrench. Just skated 3 bolts on the front after that and it worked fine.