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To anyone who has ridden Zealous ceramics, how are they? Where are they on the bones scale? Super Reds? Reds? They seem like they'd be pretty good at $40....
shalom pals
I haven't ridden the ceramics, but have the regulars. It's the grease they use that does wonders IMO. I went down a rabbit hole once and figured out that it is, or almost certainly is, this severe duty grease (https://www.archoil.com/products/ar8000-grease) used for everything under the sun including racing and firearms applications. I think I ended up tracking it down through some longboarding engineer or something. Zealous wouldn't ever respond to any of my emails, unsurprisingly. It comes in a half oz syringe for like $20, but that's enough to last forever.
It's super thick, and takes a little bit to break in, but I swear by it for rain boards and cruisers.
http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Lubricating_Skate_BearingsIs this the longboard engr?
I agree with ISO 13(ish) oil. ISO 5-15 seems good..
But not his choice of grease. I'm almost positive that SFK grease is NGLI 2
I tried Redline wheel bearing grease in the early 90's thinking it'd kick ass cuz synthetic..
Slow as shit! Probably washed it out with WD40 or something cuz I was tired of pushing my ass of.
Wheel bearing grease is pretty thick. NGLI #2. Iirc tapered roller bearings create more load ( and lateral forces too) so they need a better grease. The newer ball bearing stuff is sealed and pre-greased. I've seen ppl regrease them but I wonder if ngli 2 is really necessary. Idk, I'm not a bearing engr..
Wheel bearings also get heated by the brakes so the grease needs to have a higher dropping point.
Neo is the only company I can think of that has NGLI 1.5 wheel bearing grease, and it's maybe used for racing.
There's thinner greases out there. NGLI 1.5, 1, 0, 00, etc..
And dropping point should also be a consideration. That's the temp where the grease goes liquid. Then I think base oil viscosity comes into play..
To me greases are more complicated than oil..
I'd skip the grease and just use (an aerosol) penetrating lube regularly.
If you really want waterproof grease I'd try the bike stuff or even a chain wax.
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/bicycle-greases/extreme-fluoro-greasehttp://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_greas.htm ^finishline sounds like a budget krytox option
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/bicycle-greases/ceramic-grease-advanced-bearing-lubrication ceramic nanoparticles is a newish trend for oils
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricantshttp://www.finishlineusa.com/products/lube-finder.php wet lube and ceramic wet lube best for water
Thicker engine assembly lubes might be a good option, they'll have EP/AW additives..
Lubriplate 105, CMD #3, Redline..
https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/100-Series/NO-105/ NGLI 0, 170*f dropping pt, zinc for antiwear
https://www.cmdlubeoil.com/extreme-pressure-lubricant/ http://www.cmdlubeoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/sds-lube-3.pdf 40cst @ 100*c
That's thicker than 60wt engine oil, probably 70wt too! About as thick as 250wt gear oil.
Maybe about the same as a room temp 20wt?
https://www.redlineoil.com/assembly-lube good dose of moly, says 2.5-5% in SDS. And thick, >1000cst @ 100c
I've used Boeshield T9. It was like waxy, soft cosmoline. Wasn't nearly as slow as grease and it's supposed to be water resistant.
https://boeshield.com/products/https://www.skf.com/in/products/rolling-bearings/principles-of-rolling-bearing-selection/bearing-selection-process/bearing-size/size-selection-based-on-rating-life/lubrication-condition-the-viscosity-ratio-kIf you really wanna geek out on oil viscosity requirements..
I'll dig up some links..