It's out there, how they made the boards was by finding a special tree and praying and singing at the tree for a year and doing all this stuff for the tree before you made a surfboard out of it. Some breaks and some types of equipment were only to be riddin by royalty. They had stone stands for watching the action. When the surf was 'up' the tools went down for a day or more until the sick surf subsided.
Here's a good little tidbit form some surf guy: The samoans only rode lying down, the maori had a thin body board they rode. Tahitians stood and rode lying down, its them that are believed to have gone into the uninhabited Hawaiian islands (around 1000+ years ago) and fell in love with surfing.
They felt that by swimming, fishing, sailing, they would please their gods of the sea. But surfing: this beautiful thing, that did nothing but look so graceful and beautiful, was one of the highest ways to honour their gods.So to translate that to dirt and concrete:
They felt that by running, farming, and traveling, they would please our gods of the land. But skateboarding: this beautiful thing, that did nothing but look so graceful and beautiful, was one of the highest ways to honour their gods.
Honour the land, glide around on a piece of wood.