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Skateboarding => Shoes & Gear => Topic started by: IpathCats on September 20, 2022, 08:53:58 AM
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Whether you're a die hard stage 7 guy, or a self loathing Indy rider that keeps coming back no matter what other trucks you try, this is the place to discuss independent trucks. We have a thread for every other brand. Might as well have one for the most popular brand, so we can stop separating all of the Indy info. The pictures of the new ones being designed currently are what motivated me to make this thread. Please post any new info on them in here. Leave the truck set ups thread for discussions on fucking with your trucks.
EDIT: Adding additional Indy info/threads below. DM me if you have anything that should go here.
(https://i.ibb.co/qmP6dgn/Screenshot-20220921-094830.png) (https://ibb.co/qmP6dgn)
Weight:
144 Forged Hollow: 359g
144 Ti: 333g
149 Mid - 409g
149 Standard - 394g
149 Mid Hollow - 392g
149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
149 Hollow - 369g
149 Hollow Forged - 358g
149 TI - 340g
Height:
Standard plates 55mm
Forged plates 53.5mm
Mids 52mm
Forged mids 50.5mm
Stage 4: advertised as 55mm tall, but users are reporting 53.5mm tall.
Bushing specs: These are the rough listed measurements, they vary by about .2 - .3 mm
Top: 10 mm
Bottom: 13 mm
Stage 4 bushings
Measurements courtesy of @Lou Strux on a fresh set of uncompressed stage 4 bushings
Top: 12.5mm (12.51)
Bottom: 15mm (14.89)
Wheelbase Effect:
reg height cast plates + 3.00"
forged plates +3.1875
Indy stage 4 reissues on NHS site
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent?variant=43310976401565
Jenkem article on the cult following of Indys
http://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
Indy Mid (Mindy) thread
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.0
Thread on Skull and Bones about the differences between Indy stages
https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132955&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=independent&start=0 (https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132955&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=independent&start=0)
Thread on Indy pivot cups
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106369.0
Thread on Indy inverted Kingpin baseplate issue
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=118450.0
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Finally a thread to get something off my chest. Is it technically “Indys” or “Indies” when pluralized?
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How different do indy hollows feel compared to the standard
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Finally a thread to get something off my chest. Is it technically “Indys” or “Indies” when pluralized?
This is it. I always write "indy trucks" because I just don't know the answer.
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Hello. My user name is murge and I have an Indy problem. I use Indy’s frequently I stop temporarily then I’m back on the wagon.
I was having a good time on royals out of no where I figured let’s throw some Indy’s back on. Indy’s grind a little better that may be due to the grooves I got on them.
Current 149 Tis
After market 92a blue top
Stock orange bottom.
I had both after market Indy 92a conical but landings seems kinda twitchy so I put the stock barrel back in. Feels more stable. But I’m gonna put a flat bottom washer in for idk why mostly get rid of the click sound from the washers I found in a parts bin that seemed to fit
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Finally a thread to get something off my chest. Is it technically “Indys” or “Indies” when pluralized?
I would say "Indys" since it's a name/proper noun. Look at that, this thread is already providing value.
This is the correct question. Let's figure it out and then lock this thread
.....Nah
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How different do indy hollows feel compared to the standard
not very. same height, only slightly lighter. forged and ti forged are a bigger difference though. lower and lighter
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Hello. My user name is murge and I have an Indy problem. I use Indy’s frequently I stop temporarily then I’m back on the wagon.
I was having a good time on royals out of no where I figured let’s throw some Indy’s back on. Indy’s grind a little better that may be due to the grooves I got on them.
Current 149 Tis
After market 92a blue top
Stock orange bottom.
I had both after market Indy 92a conical but landings seems kinda twitchy so I put the stock barrel back in. Feels more stable. But I’m gonna put a flat bottom washer in for idk why mostly get rid of the click sound from the washers I found in a karts bin that seemed to fit
You are a part of the second demographic i mentioned. As am I. Recovery is a long and complicated process. Hopefully one day we can just accept our fate as indy riders.
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I have some Stage 2 131s. And some Stage 8/11 Hybrids. Skated Indys from 1986 until about 10 years ago.
Anodized Stage 5s were my favorites.
Thunders and Ace suit my needs better these days but it will be hard for me not to try these Stage 4 "reissues."
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I have some Stage 2 131s. And some Stage 8/11 Hybrids. Skated Indys from 1986 until about 10 years ago.
Anodized Stage 5s were my favorites.
Thunders and Ace suit my needs better these days but it will be hard for me not to try these Stage 4 "reissues."
I'm very curious as well. Can you speak to the characteristics of the stage 4? Do you know what the "desired" stages are? I just said 7 randomly in the first post. I really dont know what ones people pay out the ass for on ebay. They were on like 8 or 9 by the time i knew anything about trucks.
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Finally a thread to get something off my chest. Is it technically “Indys” or “Indies” when pluralized?
Indeeeeeeez nuts!
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The Indy YouTube Channel has a series “My Indys” so there’s that.
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poaching this from the truck setup thread
(https://i.imgur.com/eQcAGUY.jpg)
currently rumored to have different sizing than stage 11's, with the smallest size being a hair bigger than 149's dubbed "151's". Supposed to have similar geometry to stage 4?
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truck the rest
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Expand Quote
I have some Stage 2 131s. And some Stage 8/11 Hybrids. Skated Indys from 1986 until about 10 years ago.
Anodized Stage 5s were my favorites.
Thunders and Ace suit my needs better these days but it will be hard for me not to try these Stage 4 "reissues."
I'm very curious as well. Can you speak to the characteristics of the stage 4? Do you know what the "desired" stages are? I just said 7 randomly in the first post. I really dont know what ones people pay out the ass for on ebay. They were on like 8 or 9 by the time i knew anything about trucks.
Stage 4 were the last stage before the hollow body Stage 5 came out. I presume there is a retro appeal bc of the success of Ace. If Indy reissued anything after Stage 4 it wouldn't look that different from 11s, perhaps. People say 2 thru 4 had the best geometry but 5 thru 8 were great also. Indy really fucked up with Stage 9.
As for desirable stages I think people like Salba and Rowley dig 6 thru 8 as they are a good compromise of modern features with the classic geo but slipping axles and weight are the downside to that.
I'm guessing these Stage 4 reissues with have no slip axles, will be relatively heavy, 6 hole baseplates, turn really well and look visually retrotastic.
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truck the rest
I had a "ride the best fuck the rest" shirt when i was like 16, I thought that shit was so tough hahaha.
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I have some Stage 2 131s. And some Stage 8/11 Hybrids. Skated Indys from 1986 until about 10 years ago.
Anodized Stage 5s were my favorites.
Thunders and Ace suit my needs better these days but it will be hard for me not to try these Stage 4 "reissues."
I'm very curious as well. Can you speak to the characteristics of the stage 4? Do you know what the "desired" stages are? I just said 7 randomly in the first post. I really dont know what ones people pay out the ass for on ebay. They were on like 8 or 9 by the time i knew anything about trucks.
Stage 4 were the last stage before the hollow body Stage 5 came out. I presume there is a retro appeal bc of the success of Ace. If Indy reissued anything after Stage 4 it wouldn't look that different from 11s, perhaps. People say 2 thru 4 had the best geometry but 5 thru 8 were great also. Indy really fucked up with Stage 9.
As for desirable stages I think people like Salba and Rowley dig 6 thru 8 as they are a good compromise of modern features with the classic geo but slipping axles and weight are the downside to that.
I'm guessing these Stage 4 reissues with have no slip axles, will be relatively heavy, 6 hole baseplates, turn really well and look visually retrotastic.
Hell yea, all great info, thanks for sharing, gnar'd.
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Once and for all I want to know do forged Indy’s push the wb out more than standard? I know they are a hair lower but I’ve gotten mixed messages. I’ve only ever skated Indy standards or hollow standards never forged.
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poaching this from the truck setup thread
(https://i.imgur.com/eQcAGUY.jpg)
currently rumored to have different sizing than stage 11's, with the smallest size being a hair bigger than 149's dubbed "151's". Supposed to have similar geometry to stage 4?
Those don't necessarily look bad but its the biggest departure from the modern Indy hanger. When I think of trucks, the default look is a variation of the current hanger. I wonder if theyll lose customers just off aesthetics alone.
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I don't think these new trucks will replace the Stage 11s. Indy would be stupid to give up the hollow body hanger at this point. I presume these new trucks are more of a 'reissue' and celebration of a classic. If these aren't manufactured at Ermico (which I presume they won't be) that will be pretty disappointing.
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Once and for all I want to know do forged Indy’s push the wb out more than standard? I know they are a hair lower but I’ve gotten mixed messages. I’ve only ever skated Indy standards or hollow standards never forged.
I’m pretty sure they push it out but I’ll double check when I get a chance.
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Need to consolidate some threads/info:
http://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
Mid thread
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3097607#msg3097607
What do you think the best way to go about this would be? just link the other threads? copy shit into here?
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I don't think these new trucks will replace the Stage 11s. Indy would be stupid to give up the hollow body hanger at this point. I presume these new trucks are more of a 'reissue' and celebration of a classic. If these aren't manufactured at Ermico (which I presume they won't be) that will be pretty disappointing.
Those don't necessarily look bad but its the biggest departure from the modern Indy hanger. When I think of trucks, the default look is a variation of the current hanger. I wonder if theyll lose customers just off aesthetics alone.
That would be pretty interesting if they offered this as a separate "retro" truck with different sizing, the "no sizes under 151" claim would make more sense at that point. I guess Ace is already kinda doing this.
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Forged vs cast baseplates make a much bigger difference than standard/hollow/titanium.
I'm not sure if it's the forged baseplate or the hollow kingpin being longer, but my forged Indys feel looser and more squirrelly than the standard baseplate with standard kingpin.
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Get really nerdy,
https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132955&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=independent&start=0 (https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132955&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=independent&start=0)
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Forged vs cast baseplates make a much bigger difference than standard/hollow/titanium.
I'm not sure if it's the forged baseplate or the hollow kingpin being longer, but my forged Indys feel looser and more squirrelly than the standard baseplate with standard kingpin.
Interesting, I just bought some 149 standards. Haven't ridden standards in a long time. I'll definitely be paying attention.
Get really nerdy,
https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132955&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=independent&start=0 (https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132955&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=independent&start=0)
You're killing it today man. Haha.
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Finally a thread to get something off my chest. Is it technically “Indys” or “Indies” when pluralized?
Indys, definitively. It’s a proper noun.
Ryan Townley on the new Indys.
(https://i.ibb.co/xHMV6Fv/F6-D03-B2-D-DF34-4866-9-F1-B-82-C5044-EFC14.png) (https://ibb.co/xHMV6Fv)
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what's everyone's favorite Indy variant? This will be a fun one.
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stage 9
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Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Need to consolidate some threads/info:
http://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
Mid thread
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3097607#msg3097607
What do you think the best way to go about this would be? just link the other threads? copy shit into here?
I'd put them in the first post, with better descriptors.
ok cool, I'll start adding to it over time. thanks.
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what's everyone's favorite Indy variant? This will be a fun one.
I've had 3 pairs of stage 11 titaniums 144, 149, and 159 so i would say that. But i did just get some 149 standards, hoping to ease the madness.
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what's everyone's favorite Indy variant? This will be a fun one.
I gotta say, as a primarily bigger board skater, the 159 hollows might be the best truck to pair with most decks for me.
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Currently riding 149 Forged hollow mids + ACE classic bottoms/low tops (+ 51mm wheels / 103a STF V1s)
Absolutely stellar setup, I can't get off them no matter what I try, royals, ACE lows, Indy ti...there is something about the height + bushing combo and the different geo...that 'legendary' 215 whatever stage (7/8?) that just works for me, of all the madness combinations, nothing feels like they do, not even stage 11 ti (with the ace bushings); however, I do wish they were lighter...but they're not making a ti version (for now).
Might be dropping down to 144s but I don't want to buy more trucks!!!
Current Indy stock:
IKP cast plates
159 Forged Hollow
149 Forged Mid
149 ti
144 ti
144 Forged Mids
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169 Indy’s are probably my forever truck. Been on Aces a while now but feel the itch to go back. It’s a sickness.
Indie music / Indy trucks.
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149 Forged hollow mids + ACE classic bottoms/low tops (+ 51mm wheels / 103a STF V1s)
Absolutely stellar setup, I can't get off them no matter what I try, royals, ACE lows, Indy ti...there is something about the height + bushing combo and the different geo...that 'legendary' 215 whatever stage (7/8?) that just works for me, of all the madness combinations, nothing feels like they do, not even stage 11 ti (with the ace bushings); however, I do wish they were lighter...but they're not making a ti version (for now).
Do you find the pop anemic at all due to the height? My main qualm with Mids over FH when I was Indy-focused was around the pop feel being light, but not as good as Thunders
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Thought hollow standards (149/159) were my grail, but been pushing 149 standards and 159 forged 2+ years now and kinda been feelin em. Don’t love wheel bite since I do 54-56mm on the forged (skate loose), but grown accustomed. Want to go back to standard hollow and see what the business is, but kinda into the minutely lower height of the forged I always feared. Mind you, upping your wheel size to compensate the forged will lead to more wheel bite. And I’m slowly getting over loose af trucks. The madness continues…
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I like the forged titanium 139 Indys. Light and strong.
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what's everyone's favorite Indy variant? This will be a fun one.
Stage 8 146. Mine are drilled out to fit inverted kingpins. As long as the axles don't slip, I'd say it's the perfect modern Indy.
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If I had to ride Indys again just a solid regular 159 Stage 11 would more than suffice. 88a aftermarket bushings would be required though.
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what's everyone's favorite Indy variant? This will be a fun one.
Riding stage XI 144 Hollow right now and loving them, but still have my old red baseplate stage VIII 126s on my younger sons mini for when I want to remember what skating a sub 7.75 feels like (which doesn't last too long as it feels squirrely as hell)
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149 hollows. i skate 54's so they feel like regular unhollow stage 11's which i enjoy
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I run 144 Titanium Indys. 92a aftermarket bushings.
Bottom Bushings sanded down to like 11mm
Top Bushings sanded down to like 8mm
I shortened both kingpins with a angle grinder to fit the shorter bushings better and for more grind clearance.
This changes the geo of the trucks I tiny little bit and gives them a nice surfy turn, albeit stable when I want them to.
I think the wheelbase is a tiny bit smaller that way too, but I like the feel and never had problems with them.
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I run 144 Titanium Indys. 92a aftermarket bushings.
Bottom Bushings sanded down to like 11mm
Top Bushings sanded down to like 8mm
I shortened both kingpins with a angle grinder to fit the shorter bushings better and for more grind clearance.
This changes the geo of the trucks I tiny little bit and gives them a nice surfy turn, albeit stable when I want them to.
I think the wheelbase is a tiny bit smaller that way too, but I like the feel and never had problems with them.
Been on the 144 ti's with Indy hard cylinders and riptides for a bit. sounds like you've got your shit dialed. Madness keeps getting me though. I think I'm gonna try to ride these 149 standards completely stock. I feel like the madness has caused me to overthink my setup so much, that in reality I might just need a super simple setup if all of this tinkering hasn't satisfied me.
If I end up on a 8.38 dlx with 149 standards and 54/56mm classic f4s after all of my madness, I feel like that would be a huge life lesson for me hahaha.
If anyone has anything they think should be posted at the top of this thread just let me know.
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159 forged hollows on 8.5-8.625 decks and I don't touch the bushings or even the kingpin nut from stock. 5'10"/165 and I like that I can (hypothetically) grab a set off the shelf if I'm on vacation or on a work trip and instantly skate a new setup if needed. Forged baseplates don't bother me at my level and allow 7/8" hardware to lock into the nylock better.
I did get some Ace 60's to play with and do enjoy the non-squeakiness from the factory, presumably due to the cup/bushing grease that I can see oozing out.
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159 forged hollows on 8.5-8.625 decks and I don't touch the bushings or even the kingpin nut from stock. 5'10"/165 and I like that I can (hypothetically) grab a set off the shelf if I'm on vacation or on a work trip and instantly skate a new setup if needed. Forged baseplates don't bother me at my level and allow 7/8" hardware to lock into the nylock better.
I did get some Ace 60's to play with and do enjoy the non-squeakiness from the factory, presumably due to the cup/bushing grease that I can see oozing out.
Do you notice your stock indys squeaking loudly?
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what's everyone's favorite Indy variant? This will be a fun one.
149 forged hollow with blue conical bushings. They are light but not too light and grind like a dream. I can also skate 8.25-8.5 decks without needing to swap truck sizes.
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Do you notice your stock indys squeaking loudly?
Yeah, but mostly in my office while I'm standing on my board during a meeting, lol. I don't notice it at all while skating, maybe others do.
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Do you notice your stock indys squeaking loudly?
Yeah, but mostly in my office while I'm standing on my board during a meeting, lol. I don't notice it at all while skating, maybe others do.
I always thought mine did because I was always fucking with them.
Does anyone know the stock Indy bottom bushing height? Gonna put it at the top.
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Do you notice your stock indys squeaking loudly?
Yeah, but mostly in my office while I'm standing on my board during a meeting, lol. I don't notice it at all while skating, maybe others do.
I always thought mine did because I was always fucking with them.
Does anyone know the stock Indy bottom bushing height? Gonna put it at the top.
Top: 10.30 mm
Bottom: 12.75 mm
Last two digits on each measurement vary a bit by about 0.5-0.10 mm.
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https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=123519.0
Someone buy my stage 7 & 8 Indy's please :-*
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Most often skate 149 ti with 92a top and stock bottom.
But also have:
159 Ti
159 hollow forged
144 hollow (cast)
149 Stage X cast
146 Stage VIII
146 Stage VI
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https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=123519.0
Someone buy my stage 7 & 8 Indy's please :-*
Maybe @backinaction might be willing to come off some of the pairs he just listed above ?
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159 forged hollows on 8.5-8.625 decks and I don't touch the bushings or even the kingpin nut from stock. 5'10"/165 and I like that I can (hypothetically) grab a set off the shelf if I'm on vacation or on a work trip and instantly skate a new setup if needed. Forged baseplates don't bother me at my level and allow 7/8" hardware to lock into the nylock better.
I did get some Ace 60's to play with and do enjoy the non-squeakiness from the factory, presumably due to the cup/bushing grease that I can see oozing out.
It’s like we’re the same, except I’m 10lbs heavier. 10.5 size foot?
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current (most consistent) Indy set up: Indy Stage 11, 149ti hangars, hollow cast baseplates, Indy aftermarket med (90a) conical bushings, riptide pivot cups
been skating the same hangars for 2yrs or so now... every once in a while I put on forged baseplates (usually in the summer when i drop down wheel sizes) but I never stick with them very long. recently put on the hollow kingpin cast baseplates (after that Tom Knox My Indys vid) and I like em. not really any noticeable difference from regular cast baseplates, but I had ruined/ground down my kingpins too much on my standard cast baseplates.
if these hangars ever die, I may go up to 159ti (8.5 board), but we'll see. not gonna think to much on that yet. I have 159s and 169s on some cruiser boards (no mods other than the aftermarket conical bushings above).
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will i be able to use 144 hanger in a 149 baseplate?
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will i be able to use 144 hanger in a 149 baseplate?
Same stage? Yes if so.
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everyday setup has consistently been 159 hollow standards with bones mediums on 8.5-8.6 decks, but my most recent bout of truck madness has me really thinking the forged hollows with improve something.
i put wax shavings in the pivot cups when i change the bushings - still cant shake the squeaking/clicking until the trucks are half dead.
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everyday setup has consistently been 159 hollow standards with bones mediums on 8.5-8.6 decks, but my most recent bout of truck madness has me really thinking the forged hollows with improve something.
i put wax shavings in the pivot cups when i change the bushings - still cant shake the squeaking/clicking until the trucks are half dead.
From my experience, wax is a temporary fix. It breaks down eventually and actually makes the squeaking worse. Best solution I've found is to clean the pivot cups, bushings, and contact points on the hangar/washers with alcohol. If it's still loud, dab a qtip or paper towel with motor oil or another lubricant that won't breakdown easily and apply THE LIGHTEST COAT POSSIBLE on the parts mentioned above. So light you cant even really see it on there.
Riptide cups help too.
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I run 144 Titanium Indys. 92a aftermarket bushings.
Bottom Bushings sanded down to like 11mm
Top Bushings sanded down to like 8mm
I shortened both kingpins with a angle grinder to fit the shorter bushings better and for more grind clearance.
This changes the geo of the trucks I tiny little bit and gives them a nice surfy turn, albeit stable when I want them to.
I think the wheelbase is a tiny bit smaller that way too, but I like the feel and never had problems with them.
Been on the 144 ti's with Indy hard cylinders and riptides for a bit. sounds like you've got your shit dialed. Madness keeps getting me though. I think I'm gonna try to ride these 149 standards completely stock. I feel like the madness has caused me to overthink my setup so much, that in reality I might just need a super simple setup if all of this tinkering hasn't satisfied me.
If I end up on a 8.38 dlx with 149 standards and 54/56mm classic f4s after all of my madness, I feel like that would be a huge life lesson for me hahaha.
If anyone has anything they think should be posted at the top of this thread just let me know.
Well at least I got my trucks dialed. For now. Will see how they ride in the winter. Shoe and Deck madness is still real.
But 8.4 decks on 149s are pretty stable and that's what I would run if I had bigger feet or less flip tricks.
I also have some Forged Hollow 159s on a lazy sunday setup, which I also like a lot. Just not much lazy sundays in the last months.
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I run 144 Titanium Indys. 92a aftermarket bushings.
Bottom Bushings sanded down to like 11mm
Top Bushings sanded down to like 8mm
I shortened both kingpins with a angle grinder to fit the shorter bushings better and for more grind clearance.
This changes the geo of the trucks I tiny little bit and gives them a nice surfy turn, albeit stable when I want them to.
I think the wheelbase is a tiny bit smaller that way too, but I like the feel and never had problems with them.
So good seeing other people changing things to make them work exactly how they want them to.
If I end up on a 8.38 dlx with 149 standards and 54/56mm classic f4s after all of my madness, I feel like that would be a huge life lesson for me hahaha.
This is pretty much where I am at, although I do like smaller flat / wide wheels (Classics when worn down), but the new Classic 56mm wheels I just put on more as a transition setup feel amazing.
I had been worried with the new trucks coming in, going from Stage 9 / 10 to Stage 11, but once I was on them, I have never looked back and feel like they just work so well for everything, standard polished, no fuss, etc in almost every size on various boards I have set up, but mostly 149s, some stock bushings, but mostly the old red aftermarket Indy 92 duro with low heads, no risers needed, skated fairly loose but still a good stability on those bushings, angle grinded the kingpins down a couple of threads, set and forget, skated like that for the life of the trucks.
Also have some ti axle versions, hollow hangers, forged baseplates more for curious people to try them and see, along with some inverted baseplate kits, and some used mids, so pretty much everything, but I am happy enough with plain simple standards.
Those new ones do look interesting, but not enough to go out and get a few sets just to see how they skate.
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everyday setup has consistently been 159 hollow standards with bones mediums on 8.5-8.6 decks, but my most recent bout of truck madness has me really thinking the forged hollows with improve something.
i put wax shavings in the pivot cups when i change the bushings - still cant shake the squeaking/clicking until the trucks are half dead.
From my experience, wax is a temporary fix.
I waxed my sliding screen door to stop the screetching and it was also a temporary fix - haha. time to lube both i guess. thanks.
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everyday setup has consistently been 159 hollow standards with bones mediums on 8.5-8.6 decks, but my most recent bout of truck madness has me really thinking the forged hollows with improve something.
i put wax shavings in the pivot cups when i change the bushings - still cant shake the squeaking/clicking until the trucks are half dead.
From my experience, wax is a temporary fix.
I waxed my sliding screen door to stop the screetching and it was also a temporary fix - haha. time to lube both i guess. thanks.
LUBE THAT PUPPY UP. THROW SOME GOT DANG CASTROL ON 'ER. she'll be gud.
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Would it be a dick move to go to the other truck threads and ask them to edit the first post with all the specs and useful shit like i did here? Seems like a no brainer to me. would be nice to have all that info handy for each brand.
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I first used stage V in 1986. they were pretty sweet.
Rode stage 6 and 7 (the best). Stage 8, I had some at the end with black kingpins (I had 2 sets with silver kingpins that the pin sucked).
Stage 9 - I hated and am still mad about that period. Not sure if it was mental or not, but i could not skate the same on them.
stage 10 - pretty good
Stage 11- pretty good.
I have some 129s (7.75 deck), 139s (small egg) and 144s (8.25 deck) of stage 11 currently.
Thanks
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If anyone knows the bushing specs (height) and the wheelbase on the mids/forged mids, please let me know. That would basically complete the specs on the first post.
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Skating first pair of indys in like 3.5 years (hollow forged). Things are great but the part where the hanger goes into the pivot cup seems to wiggle a bit even when cranked down, Almost like the cup is too thin. Never had this issue with any other truck before to my recollection. Tried some other indy pivot cups and still same issue. Will riptides solve this? Is this normal? Could probably learn to ignore it, but its making my board sound a little weird when throwing down.
https://imgur.com/C8BR2ge
(https://i.imgur.com/C8BR2ge.mp4)
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Perfectly normal.
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Skating first pair of indys in like 3.5 years (hollow forged). Things are great but the part where the hanger goes into the pivot cup seems to wiggle a bit even when cranked down, Almost like the cup is too thin. Never had this issue with any other truck before to my recollection. Tried some other indy pivot cups and still same issue. Will riptides solve this? Is this normal? Could probably learn to ignore it, but its making my board sound a little weird when throwing down.
https://imgur.com/C8BR2ge
(https://i.imgur.com/C8BR2ge.mp4)
no riptides will not solve this, yes it is normal, at least a small amount of play any way.
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Damn that sucks. I don't recall if this happened on my 149 titaniums years ago. Weird I never ever noticed this on any of the ventures, aces or thunders I've skated recently. Is there a remedy for it at all?
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Damn that sucks. I don't recall if this happened on my 149 titaniums years ago. Weird I never ever noticed this on any of the ventures, aces or thunders I've skated recently. Is there a remedy for it at all?
I've only observed it on the forged indys ive ridden. I've also been on Ace classic/AF1, thunder team hollows, and venture v lights in that time. I have a pair of 149 standards im about to setup, curious if it will occur on them.
You may have an exaggerated instance of it though, either a super small hanger nub piece, or the hole in the pivot cup is too large.
If it bothers you that bad get Ace's if you prefer a surfier ride, or thunders if you like a snappier more stable ride is what i would suggest.
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Damn that sucks. I don't recall if this happened on my 149 titaniums years ago. Weird I never ever noticed this on any of the ventures, aces or thunders I've skated recently. Is there a remedy for it at all?
I've only observed it on the forged indys ive ridden. I've also been on Ace classic/AF1, thunder team hollows, and venture v lights in that time. I have a pair of 149 standards im about to setup, curious if it will occur on them.
You may have an exaggerated instance of it though, either a super small hanger nub piece, or the hole in the pivot cup is too large.
If it bothers you that bad get Ace's if you prefer a surfier ride, or thunders if you like a snappier more stable ride is what i would suggest.
I just migrated from aces haha. Liking everything about these besides this one thing. Maybe the riptides I have coming will make it a bit better. If not I'll just deal with it
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With your weight on the board, it will be a non issue. Nothing to worry about.
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If anyone knows the bushing specs (height) and the wheelbase on the mids/forged mids, please let me know. That would basically complete the specs on the first post.
My measurements
Std forged +3.1875
Cast mid +3
Forged mid unknown
Top bushing 10.25mm
Bot bushing. 13mm
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With your weight on the board, it will be a non issue. Nothing to worry about.
+1
Most pivots/cups end up being a hot dog in a hallway scenario no matter what you do. Only new pivots (thicker walled ones) will fix that.
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Okay cool because there's a few other things that are throwing me off. Trucks sometimes lean after a long slappy and don't snap back to center and I've had these bushings for a good couple sessions already. Ordered the blue aftermarkets. Also the board just sounds weird but probably more due to forged plates and hollow axles... and softer bones wheels. I'll deal with it
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Flex the truck super hard so the wheel touches the deck and see if the bushings are spilling over. I had a few sets of aftermarket Indy bushings where the bottom washer was kinda small and this happened as did a friend. The top washer was also kinda sharp.
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If anyone knows the bushing specs (height) and the wheelbase on the mids/forged mids, please let me know. That would basically complete the specs on the first post.
My measurements
Std forged +3.1875
Cast mid +3
Forged mid unknown
Top bushing 10.25mm
Bot bushing. 13mm
Nice! Now I just want this for all trucks. Haha
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Favorite Indy setup is 159 hangers with the IKP baseplates. Love how grinds don't wear down the head of the shaft. Bushings are basically whatever works for my situation, I skate shaped decks and depending on the shape I need a softer or harder bushings between 90a-92a.
The problem with the IKPs though is that it's super easy to over tighten the kingpin and blow out a bushing since there isn't as much resistance compared to tightening the nut on a normal baseplate and you can't visually see how far you tighten the kingpin. Tried Bones bushings with it and kept cranking the kingpin down because it just wasn't feeling tight enough. Soon found out that the bottom bushing blew out from just me tightening the kingpin too much.
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Would it be a dick move to go to the other truck threads and ask them to edit the first post with all the specs and useful shit like i did here? Seems like a no brainer to me. would be nice to have all that info handy for each brand.
Man the first post edit is great. They def need that on other truck threads. Super helpful and will cut down on people having to read who knows how many pages etc. to find that info. Gnarred
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Would it be a dick move to go to the other truck threads and ask them to edit the first post with all the specs and useful shit like i did here? Seems like a no brainer to me. would be nice to have all that info handy for each brand.
Man the first post edit is great. They def need that on other truck threads. Super helpful and will cut down on people having to read who knows how many pages etc. to find that info. Gnarred
Yeah, this first post with all relevant info is a good one for sure!!!!
That is why I had to do something almost crazy with the Woodshop thread, but at least, being a work in progress it can still be edited and updated, so the first page, or in this case the first post can still have all relevant information as people add things to whatever is going on.
I guess the hardest thing with a lot of threads is the initial post may be from a person that either has not a whole lot of interest in constantly updating a first post, or may not be a current user, as per older Woodshop threads.
Already seeing a lot more rad info in one place is better for curious people or a good list of info too.
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Would it be a dick move to go to the other truck threads and ask them to edit the first post with all the specs and useful shit like i did here? Seems like a no brainer to me. would be nice to have all that info handy for each brand.
Man the first post edit is great. They def need that on other truck threads. Super helpful and will cut down on people having to read who knows how many pages etc. to find that info. Gnarred
I guess the hardest thing with a lot of threads is the initial post may be from a person that either has not a whole lot of interest in constantly updating a first post, or may not be a current user, as per older Woodshop threads.
Mods can make this happen....if they feel up to it...
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I ride 149 hollows with stock bushings and I like everything about them except the kingpin clearance. I know that I could cut down the bushings and kps but am neither equipped nor skilled (i.e. can‘t be arsed) to do it. I‘ll just grind thru the kingpin and deal with hangups.
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Would it be a dick move to go to the other truck threads and ask them to edit the first post with all the specs and useful shit like i did here? Seems like a no brainer to me. would be nice to have all that info handy for each brand.
Man the first post edit is great. They def need that on other truck threads. Super helpful and will cut down on people having to read who knows how many pages etc. to find that info. Gnarred
Credit to @Xen ! His idea, I just did the legwork haha.
I DM'd the venture and thunder thread ops and asked them to update. The ace guy is long gone. Hasn't been on since 2015.
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Okay cool because there's a few other things that are throwing me off. Trucks sometimes lean after a long slappy and don't snap back to center and I've had these bushings for a good couple sessions already. Ordered the blue aftermarkets. Also the board just sounds weird but probably more due to forged plates and hollow axles... and softer bones wheels. I'll deal with it
That's always been kind of a meme with indys I remember Taylor nawrocki making memes about how your board goes off on a turn if you don't land your trick while skating indys or something. Maybe harder bushings would fix this? Looser trucks? Idk. I'm kinda heavy footed on my board, it doesn't bother me while skating.
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Favorite Indy setup is 159 hangers with the IKP baseplates. Love how grinds don't wear down the head of the shaft. Bushings are basically whatever works for my situation, I skate shaped decks and depending on the shape I need a softer or harder bushings between 90a-92a.
The problem with the IKPs though is that it's super easy to over tighten the kingpin and blow out a bushing since there isn't as much resistance compared to tightening the nut on a normal baseplate and you can't visually see how far you tighten the kingpin. Tried Bones bushings with it and kept cranking the kingpin down because it just wasn't feeling tight enough. Soon found out that the bottom bushing blew out from just me tightening the kingpin too much.
Bones bushings just blow out, they're very short lived, that's why you see guys skating fresh ones all the time. Softer they are, the quicker that built in washer sinks into the bushing.
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what's everyone's favorite Indy variant? This will be a fun one.
Mines got to be stage 11 ti 149 hanger, ikp cast baseplate and the stock bushings nice and worn in. A lovely weight and height for a truck and your kingpin doesn’t get ground down, it’s perfect for me as I like my trucks loose and squirrely even though I keep switching back and forward between these and ace classics, the truck madness is real.
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Okay cool because there's a few other things that are throwing me off. Trucks sometimes lean after a long slappy and don't snap back to center and I've had these bushings for a good couple sessions already. Ordered the blue aftermarkets. Also the board just sounds weird but probably more due to forged plates and hollow axles... and softer bones wheels. I'll deal with it
That's always been kind of a meme with indys I remember Taylor nawrocki making memes about how your board goes off on a turn if you don't land your trick while skating indys or something. Maybe harder bushings would fix this? Looser trucks? Idk. I'm kinda heavy footed on my board, it doesn't bother me while skating.
I think it's just a thing, I have the slightly harder blue bushings and if anything that turn after not making something is even worse.
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I have a set of 144 standards that are pretty ground down and I was thinking of getting a set of mids to replace them. I've been preferring more of a mid truck height (thunder / Ace height) lately and it seems like Indy mids are on sale everywhere. The only thing holding me back are the various kingpin and baseplate issues I've seen here. How have these lasted for people that skate them? Are they on sale for a reason? I was thinking of just going with forged hollows but they're like double the price lol.
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I have a set of 144 standards that are pretty ground down and I was thinking of getting a set of mids to replace them. I've been preferring more of a mid truck height (thunder / Ace height) lately and it seems like Indy mids are on sale everywhere. The only thing holding me back are the various kingpin and baseplate issues I've seen here. How have these lasted for people that skate them? Are they on sale for a reason? I was thinking of just going with forged hollows but they're like double the price lol.
The small vocal community [on slap] certainly isn't the reason they're on sale; if I had to guess, they're just a niche segment in the truck market and I don't think the IKP sways a lot of 'indy' people...a 'mid' without the IKP would probably sell better (looking at you royal standard/ultra/ACE/Thunder)...and with indy, you already have so many plate/material options with 55mm and 53.5mm height trucks...do you really need a 52mm option?
Plus out of the gate they got bagged on for the heavyweight design of adding more meat to the hanger to maintain IKP clearance...weird design choice...standard [cast] indy mids are heavier than standard indys...,the reynolds hollows come closer to regs indy and the forged hollows mids come pretty close to the regular forged hollows.
A few folks have had the kingpin loosen over time (I have not, on any truck with the IKP...), and ever fewer have reported the shaft nut loosening in the plate issue (I'd argue ACE sees more loose pins by comparison), but that might be relative to the amount of people skating them? I usually see the Tiagos on sale, never the reynolds (hollows).
Personally, the 50.5mm forged hollow mid is where it's at...zero complaints and they've become my [current] favorite truck.
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Mids were cool and had their advantages for sure. I just preferred the pop feel of the Forged Hollows over them. I had the shaft nut and loosening issue and never rode my replacements.
As for being on sale: I asked 2 shops local to me why they don't stock Mids and they both said that they had an initial run that didn't sell well. I am guessing that most people that want Indys don't want what they perceive is a low truck (even tho it isn't), don't care about IKP, and probably don't even know that forged trucks are lower when they buy them. When they find out they're not lighter they probably just buy what they're used to. Outside of Slap your average skater is quite clueless about gear details a lot of times. I had a dude tell me Thunders were low and he was on Ace's that were 1mm higher. A dude I see at the skatepark has 1 cast hollow Indy and 1 regular. Shit like that.
So definitely a good truck and fun to ride. I didn't think their pop feel was that great for the decks that I was on and I don't need an IKP. If you don't like them, get a cheap pair of closeout or used Indy standards and swap the hanger onto the plates.
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I feel like they should at least keep the forged mids. Gives lower truck guys an Indy option that isn't heavier than the standards and is more than 1.5mm difference in height from the std forges.
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I’m jumping on these just for fun, they were on sale here too….the Ace lo’s weight didn’t bug me too bad and actually the inverted kingpin has grown on me. I have krux that I could drop in too.
Maybe the insane demand lead to companies trying new things and now they’re dialling back seeing what worked.
Worst case scenario I just set them up with an old deck and sell it.
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I have a set of 144 standards that are pretty ground down and I was thinking of getting a set of mids to replace them. I've been preferring more of a mid truck height (thunder / Ace height) lately and it seems like Indy mids are on sale everywhere. The only thing holding me back are the various kingpin and baseplate issues I've seen here. How have these lasted for people that skate them? Are they on sale for a reason? I was thinking of just going with forged hollows but they're like double the price lol.
The small vocal community [on slap] certainly isn't the reason they're on sale; if I had to guess, they're just a niche segment in the truck market and I don't think the IKP sways a lot of 'indy' people...a 'mid' without the IKP would probably sell better (looking at you royal standard/ultra/ACE/Thunder)...and with indy, you already have so many plate/material options with 55mm and 53.5mm height trucks...do you really need a 52mm option?
Plus out of the gate they got bagged on for the heavyweight design of adding more meat to the hanger to maintain IKP clearance...weird design choice...standard [cast] indy mids are heavier than standard indys...,the reynolds hollows come closer to regs indy and the forged hollows mids come pretty close to the regular forged hollows.
A few folks have had the kingpin loosen over time (I have not, on any truck with the IKP...), and ever fewer have reported the shaft nut loosening in the plate issue (I'd argue ACE sees more loose pins by comparison), but that might be relative to the amount of people skating them? I usually see the Tiagos on sale, never the reynolds (hollows).
Personally, the 50.5mm forged hollow mid is where it's at...zero complaints and they've become my [current] favorite truck.
Mids were cool and had their advantages for sure. I just preferred the pop feel of the Forged Hollows over them. I had the shaft nut and loosening issue and never rode my replacements.
As for being on sale: I asked 2 shops local to me why they don't stock Mids and they both said that they had an initial run that didn't sell well. I am guessing that most people that want Indys don't want what they perceive is a low truck (even tho it isn't), don't care about IKP, and probably don't even know that forged trucks are lower when they buy them. When they find out they're not lighter they probably just buy what they're used to. Outside of Slap your average skater is quite clueless about gear details a lot of times. I had a dude tell me Thunders were low and he was on Ace's that were 1mm higher. A dude I see at the skatepark has 1 cast hollow Indy and 1 regular. Shit like that.
So definitely a good truck and fun to ride. I didn't think their pop feel was that great for the decks that I was on and I don't need an IKP. If you don't like them, get a cheap pair of closeout or used Indy standards and swap the hanger onto the plates.
Thanks for the detailed replies!
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I’m jumping on these just for fun, they were on sale here too….the Ace lo’s weight didn’t bug me too bad and actually the inverted kingpin has grown on me. I have krux that I could drop in too.
Maybe the insane demand lead to companies trying new things and now they’re dialling back seeing what worked.
Worst case scenario I just set them up with an old deck and sell it.
Is it the og krux pin? I'm still trying to track down the thread on slap that show how they correct the top washer fit with bushings as it doesn't actually fit inside the top bushing they way you'd think it does; you'd need a bigger hole in the top part of the bushing.
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I don't think they have any intent of getting rid of the mids especially with Reynolds and Tiago having pro model mids. Probably just going to adjust production appropriately. The forged mids probably have the best kingpin clearance of any truck of that height.
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I’m jumping on these just for fun, they were on sale here too….the Ace lo’s weight didn’t bug me too bad and actually the inverted kingpin has grown on me. I have krux that I could drop in too.
Maybe the insane demand lead to companies trying new things and now they’re dialling back seeing what worked.
Worst case scenario I just set them up with an old deck and sell it.
Is it the og krux pin? I'm still trying to track down the thread on slap that show how they correct the top washer fit with bushings as it doesn't actually fit inside the top bushing they way you'd think it does; you'd need a bigger hole in the top part of the bushing.
Yah I think so. I put them in everything about 5 years ago, my aces, thunders…..I found it worked ok. I’m not really holding my breath on perfection because it sounds like some people are having issues. I thought about revisiting thunders and putting in risers too….
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I’m jumping on these just for fun, they were on sale here too….the Ace lo’s weight didn’t bug me too bad and actually the inverted kingpin has grown on me. I have krux that I could drop in too.
Maybe the insane demand lead to companies trying new things and now they’re dialling back seeing what worked.
Worst case scenario I just set them up with an old deck and sell it.
Is it the og krux pin? I'm still trying to track down the thread on slap that show how they correct the top washer fit with bushings as it doesn't actually fit inside the top bushing they way you'd think it does; you'd need a bigger hole in the top part of the bushing.
Yah I think so. I put them in everything about 5 years ago, my aces, thunders…..I found it worked ok. I’m not really holding my breath on perfection because it sounds like some people are having issues. I thought about revisiting thunders and putting in risers too….
It will still work, but if it was actually inside the top bushing you'd gain so much more clearance.
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Do you guys think Tiago or Reynolds actually skate the mids despite having pro model mids? I’m not aware of any Indy team riders that ride mids honestly
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I mean if you follow them on IG you can frequently see their boards. Reynolds posts his in his story all the time and you can see the IKP and fatty hangers. Tiago same story. Carlos Ribeiro skates them and there's a dude on Creature that does. I'm sure if we see gold truck footy we will know for sure.
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I suspect they are blowing out trucks the same way they are blowing out everything in skating….over supply.
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Flex the truck super hard so the wheel touches the deck and see if the bushings are spilling over. I had a few sets of aftermarket Indy bushings where the bottom washer was kinda small and this happened as did a friend. The top washer was also kinda sharp.
Grip(tape) the inside of the washer.
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That won't help the sharp top as the metal is just super thin too. The bottom washer is physically too small. When you put the bushing in it is already touching the angled part. I dunno why they even give you washers.
Another weird thing I noticed on my last sets of Indy bushings was that the blues don't feel harder than the orange anymore.
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I am going to make a bold/controversial statement.
People have been doing sick Smiths, Feebles, Hurricanes, etc. on curbs, ledges, rails, and vert for decades at this point...all without IKPs, and as such, IKPs are little more than unnecessary gimmick. Go a tad faster. Adjust your technique. Maybe add a smidge of wax, because 30+ years of skate history demonstrably shows that standard kingpins are not a real problem (and yes, I've skated IKPs--I actually had a set Indy forged plate IKPs in the prototype stage...and quickly went back to regular forged plates).
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I respect that view and mostly agree, but when the truck is axled you can still get 2 types of tools onto an IKP. Nothing is worse than having a truck near end of life chew a bushing and it's gnarly to get a rounded nut off.
I had an issue with my early mid IKP but the replacement plates had no issue. If it could be done right then cool, but yeah- definitely not a must have feature.
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I always thought IKP's were big in the pool rider scene, was kinda surprised their foray into it was on a mid. At least they sell just the plates on their own, which makes sense for a dude who likes his hanger grooves and doesn't feel like shelling out for entire new trucks
If they do these stage 4 reissues with hollow axles that'd be sweet to put on the IKP baseplate
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I always thought IKP's were big in the pool rider scene, was kinda surprised their foray into it was on a mid. At least they sell just the plates on their own, which makes sense for a dude who likes his hanger grooves and doesn't feel like shelling out for entire new trucks
If they do these stage 4 reissues with hollow axles that'd be sweet to put on the IKP baseplate
Chances are that stage IV geo may be incompatible with other plates...that said, the way that stage XI hangers sit on the mid plates they might be a fit...stage 4 hangers on that forged mid plate....
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I am going to make a bold/controversial statement.
People have been doing sick Smiths, Feebles, Hurricanes, etc. on curbs, ledges, rails, and vert for decades at this point...all without IKPs, and as such, IKPs are little more than unnecessary gimmick. Go a tad faster. Adjust your technique. Maybe add a smidge of wax, because 30+ years of skate history demonstrably shows that standard kingpins are not a real problem (and yes, I've skated IKPs--I actually had a set Indy forged plate IKPs in the prototype stage...and quickly went back to regular forged plates).
I dont think this take is too controversial. However I do believe there is some potential benefit to be gained by exploring IKPs. If executed right it could be a plus. It wouldn't revolutionize skateboarding or anything, but it would be a welcome quality of life change.
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On thunders IKP made a difference for sure because of the angles and how little meat there is on that truck. For the most part I suck at smiths and feebles and need all the help I can get….I’ve had guys tell me a kingpin actually helps them lock in…..but when I’m creeping in on the shittiest angle and my truck is getting in differently every time.. any weird feeling I’m done, so if my trucks are consistent this is a positive thing.
Does any of it matter? If there’s anything we’ve learned from these threads it’s…..l
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Does any of it matter? If there’s anything we’ve learned from these threads it’s…..l
It doesn't imo, on a thunder or venture or ACE where you do gain more clearance with an IKP sure, but only for a little while until you grind it down...it surely doesn't help in the mids..it would be nice to have some hollow pin options tho...as the weight of the shaftnut+KP+extra meat on the hanger gets them pretty heft...not that I feel it TBH, the way the forged mids skate outweigh...the weight!
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The hard part about measuring clearance is you almost never grind straight on right below the kingpin and truck articulation changes clearance. I measured Mid clearance and they had the best out of Indy Standard, Thunder Team, Venture 5.6, Royal standard, etc., but people noted when testing and on this forum that they were still sometimes hitting it on feebles and catching. I have no personal experience with this, but everything in trucks is zero sum until you find your specific goldilocks.
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Does any of it matter? If there’s anything we’ve learned from these threads it’s…..l
It doesn't imo, on a thunder or venture or ACE where you do gain more clearance with an IKP sure, but only for a little while until you grind it down...it surely doesn't help in the mids..it would be nice to have some hollow pin options tho...as the weight of the shaftnut+KP+extra meat on the hanger gets them pretty heft...not that I feel it TBH, the way the forged mids skate outweigh...the weight!
Maybe a hotter take, I think weight isnt as important as most people (myself included) have made it out to be.
Obviously you dont want a 50LB skateboard or anything, but i think the benefit of getting all of the lightest parts isnt that great, and in some ways is a detriment. I was on my buddies board with indy standards and I felt much more in control of the board once it was in the air, I feel like this was due to the extra weight. I also feel like the added inertia from the heavier parts plays into your pop too. Though light vs "heavy" setup might really come down to the individuals technique.
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When mids are heavier than standards, you notice, I did anyway...same with ACE lows (44s), I thought ooh that hollow pin, yeah, nope. Still heavy compared to indy/thunder/royal/etc.
8.375/149 forged mids all day yesterday and had no issues with weight...tho I am dropping down to 144 forged mids, 149s are just feeling clunky coming off the af1 44s (and 148s before them).
Mid forged hollow: 376
Forged hollows: 358
Paying a 18g cost for no real added benefit in terms of grind clearance (3mm of difference on the forged mids, which I *do* notice, so the trade of is fine). But compared to a standard/hollow the mids don't net you clearance for the cost.
Kingpins are heavy, it's just the way it is. There's got to be a reason Royal/indy/krux all use the same button/hex solid pin in conjunction with the shaft nut. either cost or durability (maybe a hollow wouldn't fair so well in said shaft nut).
I'll say this tho, the mids geo feel different, better to me than forged ti..the turn is faster and def less tippy feeling.
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When mids are heavier than standards, you notice, I did anyway...same with ACE lows (44s), I thought ooh that hollow pin, yeah, nope. Still heavy compared to indy/thunder/royal/etc.
8.375/149 forged mids all day yesterday and had no issues with weight...tho I am dropping down to 144 forged mids, 149s are just feeling clunky coming off the af1 44s (and 148s before them).
Mid forged hollow: 376
Forged hollows: 358
Paying a 18g cost for no real added benefit in terms of grind clearance (3mm of difference on the forged mids, which I *do* notice, so the trade of is fine). But compared to a standard/hollow the mids don't net you clearance for the cost.
Kingpins are heavy, it's just the way it is. There's got to be a reason Royal/indy/krux all use the same button/hex solid pin in conjunction with the shaft nut. either cost or durability (maybe a hollow wouldn't fair so well in said shaft nut).
I'll say this tho, the mids geo feel different, better to me than forged ti..the turn is faster and def less tippy feeling.
I do feel like weight would be more noticeable on a lower truck. But I guess what im getting at is that lighter boards are thought to be easier to pop higher. and while that may be true to some degree, I think inertia also plays into this. I also think that a heavier board is a bit easier to control in the air, which is something that isnt really talked about. I bought a pair of standards to test this theory, hopefully they solve my issues. Not hopeful lol.
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For those talking about pop and weight, don’t forget that (a) different height trucks will provide for different feeling pop, and (b) through the basic physics of a lever (your board is basically a lever), weight is amplified the further out on the lever it is moved. This means that trucks that have little difference in •actual• weight, might actually feel very different, weight-wise, when mounted on a board. How noticeable is this actually on skateboards? Depends on who you ask.
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I am probably not 100% accurate with weights, but I felt my Indy Forged Ti 144 felt lighter in pop than my Thunder Ti Lites, which were for sure lighter.
I also seem to get the worst wheelbite with Forged Hollow vs basically any other truck even from any brand. Buuuut I do prefer them for many tricks compared to standards.
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I am probably not 100% accurate with weights, but I felt my Indy Forged Ti 144 felt lighter in pop than my Thunder Ti Lites, which were for sure lighter.
I also seem to get the worst wheelbite with Forged Hollow vs basically any other truck even from any brand. Buuuut I do prefer them for many tricks compared to standards.
I also get more wheelbite on forged hollows compared to team thunders despite higher axle. Could be a geometry thing in the turn.
Though I think xen’s experience was the opposite.
Maybe I ride weird? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Been riding forged mids (50.5mm) with 51mm V1 wheels and beat ass classic ace bottoms/low tops+flat washers (nut+pin flush+ 1/2 turn) and using yesterday as a use case, had but two instances of wheelbite and that was me trying to make a sharp turn at slow speeds while being distracted :P
The week prior, riding forged thunder 148s stock, with the same wheels on a board with wheel wells I was still biting all over the place. I clearly need that slower initialization of the arc for as loose as I ride because using the same motions on thunders find me dipping too hard too fast (if I rode tighter it wouldn't happen); they just insta-bite.
With ACE/Royal/Indy I don't have to pay attention to avoid wheelbite, I can just skate (it still happens tho) when I skate thunders I'm constantly shifting my weight to consciously avoid it during turns, especially if I'm slappying; if I'm doing flat/big ollies or ledges, thunders are fine since it's all straight lines w/quick setup.
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had but two instances of wheelbite and that was me trying to make a sharp turn at slow speeds while being distracted :P
Nothing makes me feel more dumb than getting pitched because my phone buzzed lol
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Complete opposite for me. I do tight u-turns all the time, carve fine, zero issues with wheelbite on Thunders. Maybe I'm just a twitchy dude? I stopped really questioning it when I realized that it just doesn't happen to me. Most people feel my trucks are pretty medium to medium loose. Definitely not squirrely. I think for me there is a nice quick snap to and from center with Thunder and with Indy maybe it has to do with the effective wheelbase or extra clearance of the standards that made it work well for me. I prob shoulda used blue bushings with less kingpin tightness.
I also recently rode Forged Ti 144's and think even a 149 woulda been smarter since I usually ride 8.38 or the DLX 8.25, which actually measures 8.38. Almost always 52's, sometimes a 53. I did have wider wheels on my last few Indy setups, which definitely doesn't help with bite.
I only really wheelbite when landing too lead footed on specific tricks and flip tricks usually 360 flips or nollie 180's when moving relatively fast (for me). I do pretty tight u-turns at a lot of spots and never had issues there (Oakland Courthouse was one for reference, where Venture dudes often tic-tac the u-turns). I've ridden looser before and it doesn't add anything to my ability to do tricks (actually makes most tricks pop shittier and unstable landings at speed) and I don't view truck looseness/tightness as a point of pride.
Where I really like Indys and sometimes miss them is on transition where I can kinda progressively lean into the arc. Trucks are weird. Maybe someday I'll try em again.
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Thunders are full on landmine trucks…..I jump on em and get ejected…..aces you swerve real hard before you wheelbite….lately I have been wheel biting on ventures but the angle isn’t bad….it’s like a form of braking….
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With ACE/Royal/Indy I don't have to pay attention to avoid wheelbite, I can just skate (it still happens tho) when I skate thunders I'm constantly shifting my weight to consciously avoid it during turns, especially if I'm slappying; if I'm doing flat/big ollies or ledges, thunders are fine since it's all straight lines w/quick setup.
Havent tried the royals, but this is my exact experience with ACE/Indy vs thunder.
Complete opposite for me. I do tight u-turns all the time, carve fine, zero issues with wheelbite on Thunders. Maybe I'm just a twitchy dude? I stopped really questioning it when I realized that it just doesn't happen to me. Most people feel my trucks are pretty medium to medium loose. Definitely not squirrely. I think for me there is a nice quick snap to and from center with Thunder and with Indy maybe it has to do with the effective wheelbase or extra clearance of the standards that made it work well for me. I prob shoulda used blue bushings with less kingpin tightness.
I also recently rode Forged Ti 144's and think even a 149 woulda been smarter since I usually ride 8.38 or the DLX 8.25, which actually measures 8.38. Almost always 52's, sometimes a 53. I did have wider wheels on my last few Indy setups, which definitely doesn't help with bite.
I only really wheelbite when landing too lead footed on specific tricks and flip tricks usually 360 flips or nollie 180's when moving relatively fast (for me). I do pretty tight u-turns at a lot of spots and never had issues there (Oakland Courthouse was one for reference, where Venture dudes often tic-tac the u-turns). I've ridden looser before and it doesn't add anything to my ability to do tricks (actually makes most tricks pop shittier and unstable landings at speed) and I don't view truck looseness/tightness as a point of pride.
Where I really like Indys and sometimes miss them is on transition where I can kinda progressively lean into the arc. Trucks are weird. Maybe someday I'll try em again.
lol after reading your posts for a while now, it seems like you have a completely different experience with most things vs most people. I wonder why this is? Not trying to make fun of you or anything, but i feel like ive seen this happen several times in shoes and gear when people are talking about little details. your experience ends up being the opposite quite often.
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Also, if anyone has new pics or info on those new indys don't be scared to share!
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With ACE/Royal/Indy I don't have to pay attention to avoid wheelbite, I can just skate (it still happens tho) when I skate thunders I'm constantly shifting my weight to consciously avoid it during turns, especially if I'm slappying; if I'm doing flat/big ollies or ledges, thunders are fine since it's all straight lines w/quick setup.
Havent tried the royals, but this is my exact experience with ACE/Indy vs thunder.
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Complete opposite for me. I do tight u-turns all the time, carve fine, zero issues with wheelbite on Thunders. Maybe I'm just a twitchy dude? I stopped really questioning it when I realized that it just doesn't happen to me. Most people feel my trucks are pretty medium to medium loose. Definitely not squirrely. I think for me there is a nice quick snap to and from center with Thunder and with Indy maybe it has to do with the effective wheelbase or extra clearance of the standards that made it work well for me. I prob shoulda used blue bushings with less kingpin tightness.
I also recently rode Forged Ti 144's and think even a 149 woulda been smarter since I usually ride 8.38 or the DLX 8.25, which actually measures 8.38. Almost always 52's, sometimes a 53. I did have wider wheels on my last few Indy setups, which definitely doesn't help with bite.
I only really wheelbite when landing too lead footed on specific tricks and flip tricks usually 360 flips or nollie 180's when moving relatively fast (for me). I do pretty tight u-turns at a lot of spots and never had issues there (Oakland Courthouse was one for reference, where Venture dudes often tic-tac the u-turns). I've ridden looser before and it doesn't add anything to my ability to do tricks (actually makes most tricks pop shittier and unstable landings at speed) and I don't view truck looseness/tightness as a point of pride.
Where I really like Indys and sometimes miss them is on transition where I can kinda progressively lean into the arc. Trucks are weird. Maybe someday I'll try em again.
lol after reading your posts for a while now, it seems like you have a completely different experience with most things vs most people. I wonder why this is? Not trying to make fun of you or anything, but i feel like ive seen this happen several times in shoes and gear when people are talking about little details. your experience ends up being the opposite quite often.
It's because ACE/INDY/Royal, actually turn instead of lean/zigzag.
( vs /
) \
( /
Almost 100% of the time, he's either trolling...or just..well...whatever.
It's like Ben, if you say you don't wheelbite on thunders, sorry my dude, you are not riding 'medium loose' or nut flush on 52s and if you are, you weigh 90lbs wet and go in straight lines or land BOLTS/PERFECTLY EVERYTIME :) I'm 190lbs now, and the way I want thunders to skate is impossible, the only way to dodge wheel bite are super hard bushings tight af and I just falloff stepping on the board as it won't flow with my bodyweight.
I'll say this with confidence, people who think they skate medium loose, don't usually.
Tensors ATGs work well/the same way as the others but they're taller so they shouldn't bite as much.
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With ACE/Royal/Indy I don't have to pay attention to avoid wheelbite, I can just skate (it still happens tho) when I skate thunders I'm constantly shifting my weight to consciously avoid it during turns, especially if I'm slappying; if I'm doing flat/big ollies or ledges, thunders are fine since it's all straight lines w/quick setup.
Havent tried the royals, but this is my exact experience with ACE/Indy vs thunder.
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Complete opposite for me. I do tight u-turns all the time, carve fine, zero issues with wheelbite on Thunders. Maybe I'm just a twitchy dude? I stopped really questioning it when I realized that it just doesn't happen to me. Most people feel my trucks are pretty medium to medium loose. Definitely not squirrely. I think for me there is a nice quick snap to and from center with Thunder and with Indy maybe it has to do with the effective wheelbase or extra clearance of the standards that made it work well for me. I prob shoulda used blue bushings with less kingpin tightness.
I also recently rode Forged Ti 144's and think even a 149 woulda been smarter since I usually ride 8.38 or the DLX 8.25, which actually measures 8.38. Almost always 52's, sometimes a 53. I did have wider wheels on my last few Indy setups, which definitely doesn't help with bite.
I only really wheelbite when landing too lead footed on specific tricks and flip tricks usually 360 flips or nollie 180's when moving relatively fast (for me). I do pretty tight u-turns at a lot of spots and never had issues there (Oakland Courthouse was one for reference, where Venture dudes often tic-tac the u-turns). I've ridden looser before and it doesn't add anything to my ability to do tricks (actually makes most tricks pop shittier and unstable landings at speed) and I don't view truck looseness/tightness as a point of pride.
Where I really like Indys and sometimes miss them is on transition where I can kinda progressively lean into the arc. Trucks are weird. Maybe someday I'll try em again.
lol after reading your posts for a while now, it seems like you have a completely different experience with most things vs most people. I wonder why this is? Not trying to make fun of you or anything, but i feel like ive seen this happen several times in shoes and gear when people are talking about little details. your experience ends up being the opposite quite often.
Almost 100% of the time, he's either trolling...or just..well...whatever.
It's like Ben, if you say you don't wheelbite on thunders, sorry my dude, you are not riding 'medium loose' or nut flush on 52s and if you are, you weigh 90lbs wet and go in straight lines or land BOLTS/PERFECTLY EVERYTIME :) I'm 190lbs now, and the way I want thunders to skate is impossible, the only way to dodge wheel bite are super hard bushings tight af and I just falloff stepping on the board as it won't flow with my bodyweight.
Tensors ATGs work well/the same way as the others but they're taller so they shouldn't bite as much.
Nah I've skated with him he's being for real. Trucks definitely medium loose and not 90 pounds wet.
Though yeah I also bite pretty hard on thunders if I don't have them a good medium tight, about 195-200 pounds. People just have different preferences you'd be surprised at what skaters think of certain boards, wheels, trucks n shoes out in the real world, off of this forum.
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The only things I am aware of that are different for me are how Thunder trucks seem stable for me, that I wear the same size in all NB shoes (everyone I know that skates them does as well), and.... I'm not sure what else really. Can you find any examples? My mentality in any activity I have done is just to find what works for me and not worry about how it differs. The madness happens when you try to micromanage what works and tweak things to solve small problems. With trucks I've been successfully gaslighted into thinking some form of Indy is the answer.
It seems that by now enough people have had the same gripes about the Powell Dragons vs their original marketing claims, but I think they're a good wheel just not for what I mostly skate. A few other posters agreed with me, but I write more direct/blunt so it probably sounds more angry from me when its not. I ended up trying Royals and still think the finish is cheap, but they skate nice minus the harder grind. That's not really an abnormal opinion either. Most of my findings with gear seem to line up with Ben Degros' notes.
For trucks I think it's not that unusual that there's people that prefer Thunders and find them stable. Their cheesy motto is "know control". Before the huge DLX Venture push most people I came across in the Bay that were not on Indys were on Thunders and didn't seem to have issues.
I only know 1 person in real life that is as prideful of their loose trucks as people on Slap seem to be and the vast majority of pros I have seen skate in real life are on pretty stock/medium seeming setups. I did try Bones in Thunders once and got way more wheelbite with those. I rode Thunders from ~2000-2008 and then from 2018-2020, so probably 80% of my setups in my life have had em on there. I learned just about every single trick on them. Or maybe it's because I have pretty strong ankles from other things I do? I dunno, it just works and I note my experience.
So ya I can't really answer your question. I like the new Vans skate line and it seems that's sorta contentious for some. Lots of people have chewed up Venture top bushings and find they pop heavier and turn a bit slower so that's not that abnormal either. I could be blanking on other things but those are things I've likely commented on the most recently. If you think about it there aren't many people that both post a lot and are really interested in all types of gear so you probably just see my posts more.
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The only things I am aware of that are different for me are how Thunder trucks seem stable for me, that I wear the same size in all NB shoes (everyone I know that skates them does as well), and.... I'm not sure what else really. Can you find any examples? My mentality in any activity I have done is just to find what works for me and not worry about how it differs. The madness happens when you try to micromanage what works and tweak things to solve small problems. With trucks I've been successfully gaslighted into thinking some form of Indy is the answer.
It seems that by now enough people have had the same gripes about the Powell Dragons vs their original marketing claims, but I think they're a good wheel just not for what I mostly skate. A few other posters agreed with me, but I write more direct/blunt so it probably sounds more angry from me when its not. I ended up trying Royals and still think the finish is cheap, but they skate nice minus the harder grind. That's not really an abnormal opinion either. Most of my findings with gear seem to line up with Ben Degros' notes.
For trucks I think it's not that unusual that there's people that prefer Thunders and find them stable. Their cheesy motto is "know control". Before the huge DLX Venture push most people I came across in the Bay that were not on Indys were on Thunders and didn't seem to have issues.
I only know 1 person in real life that is as prideful of their loose trucks as people on Slap seem to be and the vast majority of pros I have seen skate in real life are on pretty stock/medium seeming setups. I did try Bones in Thunders once and got way more wheelbite with those. I rode Thunders from ~2000-2008 and then from 2018-2020, so probably 80% of my setups in my life have had em on there. I learned just about every single trick on them. Or maybe it's because I have pretty strong ankles from other things I do? I dunno, it just works and I note my experience.
So ya I can't really answer your question. I like the new Vans skate line and it seems that's sorta contentious for some. Lots of people have chewed up Venture top bushings and find they pop heavier and turn a bit slower so that's not that abnormal either. I could be blanking on other things but those are things I've likely commented on the most recently. If you think about it there aren't many people that both post a lot and are really interested in all types of gear so you probably just see my posts more.
Wasn't trying to call you out negatively or anything, just an observation. One thing i can think of off the top of my head was either in the royal or thunder thread when people were discussing pop feel, you had a totally different take. If these are your experiences, theres nothing wrong with that. not trying to fault you. It just seems like youre prone to be an outlier for some reason. haha.
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Thunders are full on landmine trucks…..I jump on em and get ejected…..aces you swerve real hard before you wheelbite….lately I have been wheel biting on ventures but the angle isn’t bad….it’s like a form of braking….
That's a perfect description for Thunder wheelbite.
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The only things I am aware of that are different for me are how Thunder trucks seem stable for me, that I wear the same size in all NB shoes (everyone I know that skates them does as well), and.... I'm not sure what else really. Can you find any examples? My mentality in any activity I have done is just to find what works for me and not worry about how it differs. The madness happens when you try to micromanage what works and tweak things to solve small problems. With trucks I've been successfully gaslighted into thinking some form of Indy is the answer.
It seems that by now enough people have had the same gripes about the Powell Dragons vs their original marketing claims, but I think they're a good wheel just not for what I mostly skate. A few other posters agreed with me, but I write more direct/blunt so it probably sounds more angry from me when its not. I ended up trying Royals and still think the finish is cheap, but they skate nice minus the harder grind. That's not really an abnormal opinion either. Most of my findings with gear seem to line up with Ben Degros' notes.
For trucks I think it's not that unusual that there's people that prefer Thunders and find them stable. Their cheesy motto is "know control". Before the huge DLX Venture push most people I came across in the Bay that were not on Indys were on Thunders and didn't seem to have issues.
I only know 1 person in real life that is as prideful of their loose trucks as people on Slap seem to be and the vast majority of pros I have seen skate in real life are on pretty stock/medium seeming setups. I did try Bones in Thunders once and got way more wheelbite with those. I rode Thunders from ~2000-2008 and then from 2018-2020, so probably 80% of my setups in my life have had em on there. I learned just about every single trick on them. Or maybe it's because I have pretty strong ankles from other things I do? I dunno, it just works and I note my experience.
So ya I can't really answer your question. I like the new Vans skate line and it seems that's sorta contentious for some. Lots of people have chewed up Venture top bushings and find they pop heavier and turn a bit slower so that's not that abnormal either. I could be blanking on other things but those are things I've likely commented on the most recently. If you think about it there aren't many people that both post a lot and are really interested in all types of gear so you probably just see my posts more.
Wasn't trying to call you out negatively or anything, just an observation. One thing i can think of off the top of my head was either in the royal or thunder thread when people were discussing pop feel, you had a totally different take. If these are your experiences, theres nothing wrong with that. not trying to fault you. It just seems like youre prone to be an outlier for some reason. haha.
Oh no worries I was just thinking out loud. I was one of the first people to get a lot of time on Dragons and strongly disagreed with one of the main poster's claims about the wheels. That got a lot of negative visibility as did my comments on early Royal photos. Nowadays I just try to relay my own experiences. Royals do pop pretty light and that was my experience. I think I prefer how Thunders pop and flip the most because they are a bit heavier than Royal or Indy forged, but still quicker and lighter than Indy Standard or Venture. Although since this is the Indy thread, there are many days where I recall the fun turn and higher pop yield of my Indy's and that nice buttery grind.
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The percentage of people who don’t ride Indy and the number of people in the world who consider themselves unhappy is exactly the same…..
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The percentage of people who don’t ride Indy and the number of people in the world who consider themselves unhappy is exactly the same…..
Can't say a 100% disagree...when I setup Thunders, after an hour I just go "why tf did I do this again?" That happens monthly...ngl, I love the thunder pop feel, how nimble they are, pinch, weight, and how they make 14.25" WB feel sooooo good (which is the most common WB these days)...honestly they'd be perfect if it weren't for...
Wheelbite just makes them a no go and I am too [old] set in my ways to start riding tight trucks...from the moment I stepped on a real board (first real board had indy stage IIIs) I loosened them to the point no one else can ride board.
Indys are still heavy.
So, then I get back on indy and go huh...everything's fine, it's just me that sucks now :P
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And heavy trucks make no difference until you have one bad day……
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And heavy trucks make no difference until you have one bad day……
I feel the difference with impossibles..heavy boards/trucks and longer boards make it harder for me.
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I was perusing sales today when I noticed Indy has dropped "fuck the rest" from their recent merch. They have an FTR tee but I didn't see anything labeled as "new" with anything remotely objectionable
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First sesh on the 149 standards today. Weight is noticeable, but I think the height makes it manageable. Felt like I was popping off kickers/bumps much better. I also missed the extra bit of hanger space while skating 144s.
I wonder how long until madness makes me get the 149 cast hollows.... Just so I know, you know?
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First sesh on the 149 standards today. Weight is noticeable, but I think the height makes it manageable. Felt like I was popping off kickers/bumps much better. I also missed the extra bit of hanger space while skating 144s.
I wonder how long until madness makes me get the 149 cast hollows.... Just so I know, you know?
That's why I always lead with ti, I know cast/standards will never be an option (I do have those heavy-ass cast IKP plates tho, collecting dust). Forged hollow is the heaviest indy I'll ride and even then...
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First sesh on the 149 standards today. Weight is noticeable, but I think the height makes it manageable. Felt like I was popping off kickers/bumps much better. I also missed the extra bit of hanger space while skating 144s.
I wonder how long until madness makes me get the 149 cast hollows.... Just so I know, you know?
That's why I always lead with ti, I know cast/standards will never be an option (I do have those heavy-ass cast IKP plates tho, collecting dust). Forged hollow is the heaviest indy I'll ride and even then...
I swore by the titanium's, but something about the weight of standard make me feel like I have more control in the air. Idk it's all trade offs, I'm gonna try and run these for a while. We'll see how long it lasts.
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Also, if anyone has new pics or info on those new indys don't be scared to share!
Who’s got photos?
I saw them on IG for like 1 day. Some people were testing them out. Can’t wait to get a good look at them. Heard they’re suppose to be out in the next couple months.
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Also, if anyone has new pics or info on those new indys don't be scared to share!
Who’s got photos?
I saw them on IG for like 1 day. Some people were testing them out. Can’t wait to get a good look at them. Heard they’re suppose to be out in the next couple months.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3857538#msg3857538
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Also, if anyone has new pics or info on those new indys don't be scared to share!
Who’s got photos?
I saw them on IG for like 1 day. Some people were testing them out. Can’t wait to get a good look at them. Heard they’re suppose to be out in the next couple months.
They're on the first or second page of this thread. originally why i made this thread.
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First sesh on the 149 standards today. Weight is noticeable, but I think the height makes it manageable. Felt like I was popping off kickers/bumps much better. I also missed the extra bit of hanger space while skating 144s.
I wonder how long until madness makes me get the 149 cast hollows.... Just so I know, you know?
That's why I always lead with ti, I know cast/standards will never be an option (I do have those heavy-ass cast IKP plates tho, collecting dust). Forged hollow is the heaviest indy I'll ride and even then...
I swore by the titanium's, but something about the weight of standard make me feel like I have more control in the air. Idk it's all trade offs, I'm gonna try and run these for a while. We'll see how long it lasts.
I also didn't like the way titaniums felt in the air. I think I heard it described as less of a solid feedback when the board sucks up to your feet. It doesn't make much sense to me since they're about the same weight as the model of Thunders I ride. I liked the satisfying feeling of catching a flip trick with standards. There was a solid impact against your feet.
I sized up to 149 trucks this week and so far so good. I did notice that scoopy tricks were a tad different. For back tails I had to swing marginally later to get my wheel to clear the top of the ledge better. 360 flips scoop slower but I don't think that's a bad thing for me. Backside flips actually felt like they loaded up and rotated better. I've been trying to learn fakie sw front crooks and having issues really pinching the wheel and leaning in. The marginal extra room allowed me to hit the ledge at a better angle. Shit even a standard backside 50-50 on a curb felt dope.
I also switched from 54mm Classic fulls (34.5mm wide) to 52mm Classics, which nets me about an extra 3-4mm or 1/8"
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Oh and I'm 6 foot 3, 165, size 10 shoe for whoever things my truck tightness matters. I ride how they come stock and have skated with a decent amount of folks from this board all of whom have stepped on my board and mostly agreed. I ride a pretty damn generic setup. I used to run my shit super loose drinking the Slap koolaid but I actually wanted to progress and land stuff so I tightened them up. It's super irrelevant. The best skaters I know on Indy's ride them ranging from disgustingly rattling loose to cranked black aftermarket's and you can't tell from watching them skate.
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Oh and I'm 6 foot 3, 165, size 10 shoe for whoever things my truck tightness matters. I ride how they come stock and have skated with a decent amount of folks from this board all of whom have stepped on my board and mostly agreed. I ride a pretty damn generic setup. I used to run my shit super loose drinking the Slap koolaid but I actually wanted to progress and land stuff so I tightened them up. It's super irrelevant. The best skaters I know on Indy's ride them ranging from disgustingly rattling loose to cranked black aftermarket's and you can't tell from watching them skate.
We are shockingly similar in our body specs haha
I also didn't like the way titaniums felt in the air. I think I heard it described as less of a solid feedback when the board sucks up to your feet. It doesn't make much sense to me since they're about the same weight as the model of Thunders I ride. I liked the satisfying feeling of catching a flip trick with standards. There was a solid impact against your feet.
I can relate to this feeling.
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Titaniums are finally back in stock:
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-11-forged-titanium-silver-standard-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=40118117236893
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I wonder why Indy used 6 hole plates on the Gold Mids when it's a truck for dudes that specifically would never need 6 hole plates? Are Mids and low trucks popular with slappy dudes that might want that feature?
In all practicality they prob just had a surplus of 6 hole plates.
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It could be to create a buzz……
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I wonder why Indy used 6 hole plates on the Gold Mids when it's a truck for dudes that specifically would never need 6 hole plates? Are Mids and low trucks popular with slappy dudes that might want that feature?
In all practicality they prob just had a surplus of 6 hole plates.
They didn't?
(https://www.freedomskateshop.at/media/catalog/product/cache/87f26d23b83b1a4c2c650efa8081e64b/i/n/independent-x-prmitive-stage-11-mid-skateboard-truck-gold-front-side.jpg)
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Some do, some don’t. My guess is that the larger size of Indys just come with the six-bolt baseplate, but I don’t know and am not going to bother to learn.
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109, 159, 169, and 215s come with 6 hole baseplates.
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Some do, some don’t. My guess is that the larger size of Indys just come with the six-bolt baseplate, but I don’t know and am not going to bother to learn.
Yeah, the big ones always do. Nothing special about the gold ones
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With ACE/Royal/Indy I don't have to pay attention to avoid wheelbite, I can just skate (it still happens tho) when I skate thunders I'm constantly shifting my weight to consciously avoid it during turns, especially if I'm slappying; if I'm doing flat/big ollies or ledges, thunders are fine since it's all straight lines w/quick setup.
Havent tried the royals, but this is my exact experience with ACE/Indy vs thunder.
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Complete opposite for me. I do tight u-turns all the time, carve fine, zero issues with wheelbite on Thunders. Maybe I'm just a twitchy dude? I stopped really questioning it when I realized that it just doesn't happen to me. Most people feel my trucks are pretty medium to medium loose. Definitely not squirrely. I think for me there is a nice quick snap to and from center with Thunder and with Indy maybe it has to do with the effective wheelbase or extra clearance of the standards that made it work well for me. I prob shoulda used blue bushings with less kingpin tightness.
I also recently rode Forged Ti 144's and think even a 149 woulda been smarter since I usually ride 8.38 or the DLX 8.25, which actually measures 8.38. Almost always 52's, sometimes a 53. I did have wider wheels on my last few Indy setups, which definitely doesn't help with bite.
I only really wheelbite when landing too lead footed on specific tricks and flip tricks usually 360 flips or nollie 180's when moving relatively fast (for me). I do pretty tight u-turns at a lot of spots and never had issues there (Oakland Courthouse was one for reference, where Venture dudes often tic-tac the u-turns). I've ridden looser before and it doesn't add anything to my ability to do tricks (actually makes most tricks pop shittier and unstable landings at speed) and I don't view truck looseness/tightness as a point of pride.
Where I really like Indys and sometimes miss them is on transition where I can kinda progressively lean into the arc. Trucks are weird. Maybe someday I'll try em again.
lol after reading your posts for a while now, it seems like you have a completely different experience with most things vs most people. I wonder why this is? Not trying to make fun of you or anything, but i feel like ive seen this happen several times in shoes and gear when people are talking about little details. your experience ends up being the opposite quite often.
Almost 100% of the time, he's either trolling...or just..well...whatever.
It's like Ben, if you say you don't wheelbite on thunders, sorry my dude, you are not riding 'medium loose' or nut flush on 52s and if you are, you weigh 90lbs wet and go in straight lines or land BOLTS/PERFECTLY EVERYTIME :) I'm 190lbs now, and the way I want thunders to skate is impossible, the only way to dodge wheel bite are super hard bushings tight af and I just falloff stepping on the board as it won't flow with my bodyweight.
Tensors ATGs work well/the same way as the others but they're taller so they shouldn't bite as much.
Nah I've skated with him he's being for real. Trucks definitely medium loose and not 90 pounds wet.
Though yeah I also bite pretty hard on thunders if I don't have them a good medium tight, about 195-200 pounds. People just have different preferences you'd be surprised at what skaters think of certain boards, wheels, trucks n shoes out in the real world, off of this forum.
FWIW, the dude who works at my local skates loose Thunders with big (ish) wheels and he told me wheelbite isn't an issue.. He's a big dude too, at least 6 foot. I'm personally jealous, I can never skate thunders as loose as I want to unless I put on super small wheels.
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Bobby D and Jake Anderson also skate loose Thunders with 54 Conicall Fulls and larger but they use risers.
About the 6 holes it's really weird- my friend sent me the NHS link and the thumbnail on iMessage has 6 holes and when you click through they don't. Looking at various ads on social media some are 6 and some are 4. I've never ridden 159+ trucks so that would explain why I didn't know this was a standard feature.
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With ACE/Royal/Indy I don't have to pay attention to avoid wheelbite, I can just skate (it still happens tho) when I skate thunders I'm constantly shifting my weight to consciously avoid it during turns, especially if I'm slappying; if I'm doing flat/big ollies or ledges, thunders are fine since it's all straight lines w/quick setup.
Havent tried the royals, but this is my exact experience with ACE/Indy vs thunder.
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Complete opposite for me. I do tight u-turns all the time, carve fine, zero issues with wheelbite on Thunders. Maybe I'm just a twitchy dude? I stopped really questioning it when I realized that it just doesn't happen to me. Most people feel my trucks are pretty medium to medium loose. Definitely not squirrely. I think for me there is a nice quick snap to and from center with Thunder and with Indy maybe it has to do with the effective wheelbase or extra clearance of the standards that made it work well for me. I prob shoulda used blue bushings with less kingpin tightness.
I also recently rode Forged Ti 144's and think even a 149 woulda been smarter since I usually ride 8.38 or the DLX 8.25, which actually measures 8.38. Almost always 52's, sometimes a 53. I did have wider wheels on my last few Indy setups, which definitely doesn't help with bite.
I only really wheelbite when landing too lead footed on specific tricks and flip tricks usually 360 flips or nollie 180's when moving relatively fast (for me). I do pretty tight u-turns at a lot of spots and never had issues there (Oakland Courthouse was one for reference, where Venture dudes often tic-tac the u-turns). I've ridden looser before and it doesn't add anything to my ability to do tricks (actually makes most tricks pop shittier and unstable landings at speed) and I don't view truck looseness/tightness as a point of pride.
Where I really like Indys and sometimes miss them is on transition where I can kinda progressively lean into the arc. Trucks are weird. Maybe someday I'll try em again.
lol after reading your posts for a while now, it seems like you have a completely different experience with most things vs most people. I wonder why this is? Not trying to make fun of you or anything, but i feel like ive seen this happen several times in shoes and gear when people are talking about little details. your experience ends up being the opposite quite often.
Almost 100% of the time, he's either trolling...or just..well...whatever.
It's like Ben, if you say you don't wheelbite on thunders, sorry my dude, you are not riding 'medium loose' or nut flush on 52s and if you are, you weigh 90lbs wet and go in straight lines or land BOLTS/PERFECTLY EVERYTIME :) I'm 190lbs now, and the way I want thunders to skate is impossible, the only way to dodge wheel bite are super hard bushings tight af and I just falloff stepping on the board as it won't flow with my bodyweight.
Tensors ATGs work well/the same way as the others but they're taller so they shouldn't bite as much.
Nah I've skated with him he's being for real. Trucks definitely medium loose and not 90 pounds wet.
Though yeah I also bite pretty hard on thunders if I don't have them a good medium tight, about 195-200 pounds. People just have different preferences you'd be surprised at what skaters think of certain boards, wheels, trucks n shoes out in the real world, off of this forum.
FWIW, the dude who works at my local skates loose Thunders with big (ish) wheels and he told me wheelbite isn't an issue.. He's a big dude too, at least 6 foot. I'm personally jealous, I can never skate thunders as loose as I want to unless I put on super small wheels.
Wish I could [easily] too; skated thunders last night, lots of wheelbite (148s with blue bushings vs my normal 149/white bushings...which are WBite city), switched on/off to boards with indy and tensor....and....no wheelbite on the same tricks/obstacles..
Anyway, indy thread, thunder thread is this way ------> https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=118215.0
The primitive X indy drop is def odd...Gold Ventures? I could see that...maybe the ribeiro/Yamashita/ tiago fans are hyped?
Switched from the 149 mids forged hollows w/ACE bushings to 149 ti with bones meds (the classic combo) just to see if the mids being 'better' is just in my head or if the mids' height/weight really does work better for me...pretty sure it's just due to skating everyday of late.
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+1 for not being able to ride thunders as loose as I wanted. I was either too stiff or constantly wheel biting on those trucks.
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I will always just ride the Stage 11 standard polished trucks, 149 mostly nowdays on 8.38 to 8.5 boards, but I do have pretty much every other size on various boards, from older normal setups 8.12 on 139s to cruisers and fun boards, eg 129s with Mini Cubic wheels, then 159s on 8.6 to 8.75, 169s on 9 and up bigger decks.
The other day I got through a trade some forged baseplate, ti axle 159s and have been mixing and matching with them.
The ti axles sure are a lot lighter overall, which is good for bigger trucks, but I was getting so much wheelbite with the forged plates for how I usually set up my board, compared to almost none when I swapped the hangers and everything else over to cast plates.
Just goes to show how much I am used to that 55mm height of standards, so even the smallest 1.5mm lower and I had to take care not to come off.
When I put some really thin rubber risers under them, they were just about right for my muscle memory, but they will most likely end up on someone else's setup anyway, more just a trial and bit of fun while I had them.
If I was running normal bigger boards with 159 or 169s and had issues with weight, the ti axle hangers with cast plates would be my go to, but it is easy enough to make or get hold of pretty much whatever size rubber to make risers to suit as well, keep them stock with the forged plates.
The cruiser boards I have with bigger standard 159 or 169 trucks all have 1/4" risers anyway, usually with 60mm 90 duro wheels, which works well.
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(https://i.imgur.com/Ad6Ra3S.jpg)
Another pic of the new indys. The one dude from Metal sent me this, said Ben had a hard time getting them.
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They really look different in every pic. Looking fine here
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Look like an ace kinda. Don’t mind it. I like how aces look.
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(https://i.imgur.com/Ad6Ra3S.jpg)
Another pic of the new indys. The one dude from Metal sent me this, said Ben had a hard time getting them.
This is the shit that makes me run out to check my phone, when my work pc strips the image.
Edit: got to my phone. These look just like aces haha, which were Indy rip offs, so they look like indys? I was kinda stoked on the first images tbh. New/different while still being retro somehow
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Somehow, and I can't explain how, it's like a better Looking Ace.
I've got an Anti Hero egg sitting here I pulled my 149 Thunders off of that I never really rode. Might put some 159s on that and my Dragons or some old choady wheels and use that mostly for slappies.
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Somehow, and I can't explain how, it's like a better Looking Ace.
I've got an Anti Hero egg sitting here I pulled my 149 Thunders off of that I never really rode. Might put some 159s on that and my Dragons or some old choady wheels and use that mostly for slappies.
It’s only better looking from that angle. It’s hiding the ‘wings’ on the underside.
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Really hoping that new Indy comes in 151 that been previous rumored. I usually ride 8.375, and that size truck would be perfect.
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Really hoping that new Indy comes in 151 that been previous rumored. I usually ride 8.375, and that size truck would be perfect.
You a hotrod kinda guy? I run 149/144 on 8.38. I suppose a 151 would be THAT extreme though. I just lean towards magic carpet/flush than hotrod. sometimes i look at 149s on 8.38 and it makes me want to put the 144's back on haha. i love that hanger space though.
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Given this is an Indy thread should we be saying it looks like an Ace?
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Given this is an Indy thread should we be saying it looks like an Ace?
but aces look like older indy's
[insert spiderman pointing meme]
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ACE? Uh, they look like 215s...
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Chico Brenes had previously shown off these mystery Independents.
Mystery Indys solved! 166 Stage 4 as seen on Chico Brenes' IG story.
https://streamable.com/0gq21p
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/851356262029590541/995006087386366123/Screenshot_20220708-093605.jpg)
I don't believe this to be NOS since there's no Iron Cross logo, the size is shown on the hanger, and we've seen other people skate these.
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I swear with 149 on 8.38 I didn't see my wheels as much as I am with Thunders. +1 for Indy there. Shit even 149 on 8.25 I never felt hot rodded.
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I swear with 149 on 8.38 I didn't see my wheels as much as I am with Thunders. +1 for Indy there. Shit even 149 on 8.25 I never felt hot rodded.
I noticed this too. At first I thought it was just the black axle nuts making it look more pronounced. The actual hanger width on the Thunder is just slightly wider than the hanger on the Indy, axle width is the same.
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Really hoping that new Indy comes in 151 that been previous rumored. I usually ride 8.375, and that size truck would be perfect.
I’d fuck with a 151 Indy, 149s are nice on an 8.5
But a hair more truck room would be wonderful
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Anyone tried a stiffer bottom bushings to make them more stable in terms of setting up for tricks?
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Anyone tried a stiffer bottom bushings to make them more stable in terms of setting up for tricks?
I actually had a blown out stock top on both trucks and all I had laying around were black aftermarket hards, so to keep the session going I threw on the hard tops and left the boardside bushings stock and it stabilized really well. I know it’s the opposite of what you’re talking about and it may have just felt more stable because the roadside ones were blown but it worked really well and I skated them that way for a while.
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Anyone tried a stiffer bottom bushings to make them more stable in terms of setting up for tricks?
I actually had a blown out stock top on both trucks and all I had laying around were black aftermarket hards, so to keep the session going I threw on the hard tops and left the boardside bushings stock and it stabilized really well. I know it’s the opposite of what you’re talking about and it may have just felt more stable because the roadside ones were blown but it worked really well and I skated them that way for a while.
I second this. I run harder tops than bottoms. Stock ace does it. It feels more stable at center and you keep that turn.
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I swear with 149 on 8.38 I didn't see my wheels as much as I am with Thunders. +1 for Indy there. Shit even 149 on 8.25 I never felt hot rodded.
I noticed this too. At first I thought it was just the black axle nuts making it look more pronounced. The actual hanger width on the Thunder is just slightly wider than the hanger on the Indy, axle width is the same.
I think it's how they turn. I mostly notice it riding switch nollie ;)
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I swear with 149 on 8.38 I didn't see my wheels as much as I am with Thunders. +1 for Indy there. Shit even 149 on 8.25 I never felt hot rodded.
I noticed this too. At first I thought it was just the black axle nuts making it look more pronounced. The actual hanger width on the Thunder is just slightly wider than the hanger on the Indy, axle width is the same.
I think it's how they turn. I mostly notice it riding switch nollie ;)
I too am a fakie aficionado
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ACE? Uh, they look like 215s...
Exactly like 215s. Just narrower hangers.
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215’s=stage 4…ACE=stage 4…
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Ace = stage 3 IIRC
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I heard Joey Tershay bought the patent for stage 3 and that's how they were able to use the design. Not sure how true that is, but it would make sense why Indy would reissue stage 4 since they don't own stage 3 anymore.
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I'm not sure that small tweaks to a truck's design would be patentable in the first place, but in any event any patent Independent held on a Stage III truck would be long expired.
I'm not sure what the differences are between Stage III and IV, but the IV has a beefier hanger, so given Ace's problems with bending hangers, it's possible that they went with the IV for a reason such as this. And from Independent's perspective, I think it's probably not be in their interest to produce the exact same truck as does their competitor, even if that truck is originally your design.
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Ace did v up/beef up the wings for better support but who knows how much that changed the geo?
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Ace are based off Stage 3 geo but don't have the same shape.
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Ace did v up/beef up the wings for better support but who knows how much that changed the geo?
Yeah, and I’m wondering if that’s not the same thing Independent did when they moved from Stage III to Stage IV. I guess we will know soon enough.
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https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=123519.0
Someone buy my stage 7 & 8 Indy's please :-*
Not a lot of info out there; Jensen article notes tweaks, pinched plate/reinforcement etc. but that’s it up to SIV.
I’d image all geo is tweaked a bit no matter what they say...how much CAD was going on back then I wonder? Especially for trucks?
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So are these new indys gonna be in wider sizes only or also 149s etc
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So are these new indys gonna be in wider sizes only or also 149s etc
I thought there was a post saying no 149s? Or maybe starting at 149? Def 159 and up.
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Those new Indy’s look like the cut down 215’s Danny Dicola does. Esp since the ends of the hangers look flat and not tapered.
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It would be sick to see stage 11 215’s….you’d like have to melt down a Toyota to make a set…
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Does most of the Indy team ride hollows or standards?
I know the hollows have the higher ride height/clearance for bigger wheels.
But I feel like the standard Indy’s are pretty damn heavy
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Most ride the standard height/cast plate Indy's. Ave rides forged as did a few others. You can tell because forged plates are shiny and thinner and often stay shiny and don't precisely match the cast hangers. Indy has a playlist on their YouTube channel where they talk to pros about their trucks.
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Does most of the Indy team ride hollows or standards?
I know the hollows have the higher ride height/clearance for bigger wheels.
But I feel like the standard Indy’s are pretty damn heavy
Most [team members] ride standards, free trucks are usually the cheapest trucks (I'm sure people like Hawk, etc., get to req hollows or ti.
Hollows are usually forged (53.5mm) so lower than standards (55mm).
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Really hoping that new Indy comes in 151 that been previous rumored. I usually ride 8.375, and that size truck would be perfect.
You a hotrod kinda guy? I run 149/144 on 8.38. I suppose a 151 would be THAT extreme though. I just lean towards magic carpet/flush than hotrod. sometimes i look at 149s on 8.38 and it makes me want to put the 144's back on haha. i love that hanger space though.
Sure, if that’s what it’s considered. Before Indy made 144’s, I was skating 149’s on an 8.25 and I loved the stability and never noticed my trucks sticking out. We’re only talking about an 1/8” inch more on each side. I figure a 151 truck (8.6) would be perfect for 8.375.
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Does most of the Indy team ride hollows or standards?
I know the hollows have the higher ride height/clearance for bigger wheels.
But I feel like the standard Indy’s are pretty damn heavy
Most [team members] ride standards, free trucks are usually the cheapest trucks (I'm sure people like Hawk, etc., get to req hollows or ti.
Hollows are usually forged (53.5mm) so lower than standards (55mm).
The Indy team riders I know can get whichever trucks are available at the time.
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Does most of the Indy team ride hollows or standards?
I know the hollows have the higher ride height/clearance for bigger wheels.
But I feel like the standard Indy’s are pretty damn heavy
Most [team members] ride standards, free trucks are usually the cheapest trucks (I'm sure people like Hawk, etc., get to req hollows or ti.
Hollows are usually forged (53.5mm) so lower than standards (55mm).
I remember Peter Hewitt asking on Instagram for a pair of 159 titaniums, so apparently Indy isn’t even giving those out very freely.
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Does most of the Indy team ride hollows or standards?
I know the hollows have the higher ride height/clearance for bigger wheels.
But I feel like the standard Indy’s are pretty damn heavy
Most [team members] ride standards, free trucks are usually the cheapest trucks (I'm sure people like Hawk, etc., get to req hollows or ti.
Hollows are usually forged (53.5mm) so lower than standards (55mm).
The Indy team riders I know can get whichever trucks are available at the time.
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It seems like a lot just don't care. Start explaining the differences and their face just glazes over and they go with what they know.
Riding "plain old stock Indy's" meaning standard cast is like it's a point of pride. Been told many a times that if pros stopped being pros that's what they would 100% ride. Definitely a weird flex. Especially since most pros still get what they used to ride for free in a lot of cases.
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I’m much more advanced….I would pay not to ride most trucks…
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Does most of the Indy team ride hollows or standards?
I know the hollows have the higher ride height/clearance for bigger wheels.
But I feel like the standard Indy’s are pretty damn heavy
Most [team members] ride standards, free trucks are usually the cheapest trucks (I'm sure people like Hawk, etc., get to req hollows or ti.
Hollows are usually forged (53.5mm) so lower than standards (55mm).
I remember Peter Hewitt asking on Instagram for a pair of 159 titaniums, so apparently Indy isn’t even giving those out very freely.
There have been intermittent shortages of the titaniums over the last couple years.
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I’m much more advanced….I would pay not to ride most trucks…
Ahaha hypothetically what trucks would those be?
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I’m much more advanced….I would pay not to ride most trucks…
Ahaha hypothetically what trucks would those be?
You couldnt pay me to ride krux, grind king, silver, destructo maybe?
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It is definitely a personal thing.
Truck choice really does depend on how you skate and what you like to do. I have boards with lots of trucks, more than anything just to be able to let people skate them and see what the trucks are like, but most I can skate well enough on whatever setups they are on, be it Thunder, Venture, Ace, Destructo, Theeve, or any of the other brands.
Indy just ticks all the boxes for me, all the sizes I need for whatever boards I want to ride, tall enough with bigger wheels, turns great for how I like my boards to feel, good kingpin clearance, even more after I angle grind down the kingpins a couple of threads, etc.
Speaking of that, someone sent me this a while back and I had saved it (sorry I forgot if anyone had posted it before too).
Reynolds had someone machine down his kingpins a couple of threads and it looks very well done.
(https://i.ibb.co/K7VGg8h/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K7VGg8h)
(https://i.ibb.co/RPQSKJb/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg)
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Is Reynolds running barrels or conical bottoms? I can’t tel with the photo.
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Is Reynolds running barrels or conical bottoms? I can’t tel with the photo.
I think they were just stock bushings, so cylinders / barrels, but could be wrong.
Never really got into any pro or other skaters setups in such fine detail, but could be more just the angle and distortion that is making them look more conical in shape.
My conical bushings have a way smaller bottom washer or sit in a lot more if I was running the bigger washer too, just comparing my own board here.
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Is Reynolds running barrels or conical bottoms? I can’t tell with the photo.
Super hard to tell by that photo...
More importantly, what makes you shave down your kingpin on standard indys?
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That’s particularly hilarious since they make a Reynolds Mid Hollow.
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Is Reynolds running barrels or conical bottoms? I can’t tell with the photo.
Super hard to tell by that photo...
More importantly, what makes you shave down your kingpin on standard indys?
Pure madness?
Ha well maybe, but with my stack of the low head bushings or other people who tighten trucks down on stock bushings, especially when they compress down a bit, so up to three threads showing on the back truck and maybe one or two on the front, it was at first just something to do to check clearance (especially on worn to axle trucks) but then I started doing it to most of my setups when the bushings were nicely worn in and they sit lower than any inverted kingpin with better clearance, as well as easy to change if needed and don't have to mess with taking the kingpin out or other issues.
More than anything it was just an experiment that is easy enough to do and definitely works for every truck I have done it to, either to get more clearance or to prolong the life of an truck that was grinding on kingpin when worn down.
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This is an old photo. I DM'ed him and he responded. He finds the stock bushings too loose. He didn't like grinding on the kingpin so that's why they grinned it. His Mids came with blacks so he could run black aftermarkets. I went through his gram and he also ran blues and when you see his trucks they're cranked.
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Is Reynolds running barrels or conical bottoms? I can’t tell with the photo.
Super hard to tell by that photo...
More importantly, what makes you shave down your kingpin on standard indys?
Pure madness?
Ha well maybe, but with my stack of the low head bushings or other people who tighten trucks down on stock bushings, especially when they compress down a bit, so up to three threads showing on the back truck and maybe one or two on the front, it was at first just something to do to check clearance (especially on worn to axle trucks) but then I started doing it to most of my setups when the bushings were nicely worn in and they sit lower than any inverted kingpin with better clearance, as well as easy to change if needed and don't have to mess with taking the kingpin out or other issues.
More than anything it was just an experiment that is easy enough to do and definitely works for every truck I have done it to, either to get more clearance or to prolong the life of an truck that was grinding on kingpin when worn down.
He's either cranking them down or trying out some madness like to two tops or something ;)
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He runs them cranked otherwise there wouldn't be 2 threads left over it remove in the 1st place..
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I’m much more advanced….I would pay not to ride most trucks…
Ahaha hypothetically what trucks would those be?
You couldnt pay me to ride krux, grind king, silver, destructo maybe?
Same here. The only trucks I'd consider actually skating if I were to be paid would be:
#1 Indy
#2 Ace
#3 Thunder
#4 Destructo (only because they feel like Indy copycats if you don't analyze too long)
Everything else is garbage to me and not worth my time or money
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Is Reynolds running barrels or conical bottoms? I can’t tel with the photo.
I think they were just stock bushings, so cylinders / barrels, but could be wrong.
Never really got into any pro or other skaters setups in such fine detail, but could be more just the angle and distortion that is making them look more conical in shape.
My conical bushings have a way smaller bottom washer or sit in a lot more if I was running the bigger washer too, just comparing my own board here.
After years of madness, im trying to run these 149 standards as close to stock for as long as i can. But i have contemplated cutting the kingpin since im on the softer stock bushings (usually run hard blacks). They have already started squeaking though so i might need to throw the riptides in there. I do have some Ti hangers to.... oh fuck here we go again.
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I’m much more advanced….I would pay not to ride most trucks…
Ahaha hypothetically what trucks would those be?
You couldnt pay me to ride krux, grind king, silver, destructo maybe?
Same here. The only trucks I'd consider actually skating if I were to be paid would be:
#1 Indy
#2 Ace
#3 Thunder
#4 Destructo (only because they feel like Indy copycats if you don't analyze too long)
Everything else is garbage to me and not worth my time or money
#1 Indy
#2 Thunder
#3 Ace
#4 Venture
I would ride ventures for $ WAAAAAAYYYYY before destructos, it would be hard and I'd probably need to shave the top bushing, but at least i wouldnt be riding destructos.
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Why is there kind of a conception that Indy's must be kept close to stock? I don't know the term precisely, but it's a conception that stock is best and everyone runs them stock. I see more people with cranked Indy's because they won't try harder bushings than I do with cranked Thunders but that's cuz I see more people willing to swap Thunder bushings out for something harder. It's almost a group-think mentality I even had it myself with Indy.
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Why is there kind of a conception that Indy's must be kept close to stock? I don't know the term precisely, but it's a conception that stock is best and everyone runs them stock. I see more people with cranked Indy's because they won't try harder bushings than I do with cranked Thunders but that's cuz I see more people willing to swap Thunder bushings out for something harder. It's almost a group-think mentality I even had it myself with Indy.
Don't think there is. Have only ever heard people say that about ace's. Me saying that in this instance is just an acknowledgement of my madness and me trying to handle it lol.
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Why is there kind of a conception that Indy's must be kept close to stock? I don't know the term precisely, but it's a conception that stock is best and everyone runs them stock. I see more people with cranked Indy's because they won't try harder bushings than I do with cranked Thunders but that's cuz I see more people willing to swap Thunder bushings out for something harder. It's almost a group-think mentality I even had it myself with Indy.
Been like that forever..."why do my kingpins keep breaking" years and years ago form cranked down bushings.
More likely than not, people don't A) care or B) don't understand the concept of harder bushings. Of course there is no hard and fast rule about having to keep the nut flush either....
ACEs and Royals have tall pins compared to the rest, ACE with a taller top so it's sort of justified...royals...no idea but nut flush ain't happening with those stocks...to get them feeling good I've got about 2-3 threads showing...not a fan of the blue bushings either so ACE classics bushings it is (tall top eats up the tall pin)...and arguably they feel better with the ACE bushings (but then so does every barrel bushing based truck imo).
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I am going to make a bold/controversial statement.
People have been doing sick Smiths, Feebles, Hurricanes, etc. on curbs, ledges, rails, and vert for decades at this point...all without IKPs, and as such, IKPs are little more than unnecessary gimmick. Go a tad faster. Adjust your technique. Maybe add a smidge of wax, because 30+ years of skate history demonstrably shows that standard kingpins are not a real problem (and yes, I've skated IKPs--I actually had a set Indy forged plate IKPs in the prototype stage...and quickly went back to regular forged plates).
Should DM the boss like a man and break it down to him…..
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It is definitely a personal thing.
Truck choice really does depend on how you skate and what you like to do. I have boards with lots of trucks, more than anything just to be able to let people skate them and see what the trucks are like, but most I can skate well enough on whatever setups they are on, be it Thunder, Venture, Ace, Destructo, Theeve, or any of the other brands.
Indy just ticks all the boxes for me, all the sizes I need for whatever boards I want to ride, tall enough with bigger wheels, turns great for how I like my boards to feel, good kingpin clearance, even more after I angle grind down the kingpins a couple of threads, etc.
Speaking of that, someone sent me this a while back and I had saved it (sorry I forgot if anyone had posted it before too).
Reynolds had someone machine down his kingpins a couple of threads and it looks very well done.
(https://i.ibb.co/K7VGg8h/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K7VGg8h)
(https://i.ibb.co/RPQSKJb/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg)
Anyone have the instructions to do this?
I got my 149 setup with the pig hards and they’re good but I kinda prefer the stock orange cranked down cause you know
Pulls the hangar back and has a tight setup but soft bushing thing going on where you still get some lean but it’s tight so you can pop straight up with no effort
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Anyone have the instructions to do this?
I got my 149 setup with the pig hards and they’re good but I kinda prefer the stock orange cranked down cause you know
Pulls the hangar back and has a tight setup but soft bushing thing going on where you still get some lean but it’s tight so you can pop straight up with no effort
There is probably a simple process with exactly the right tools in a machine shop or something, but an angle grinder does a fairly solid job for me, maybe without it looking quite nicely finished and professional, but if I tried I could definitely make it look very close to that.
Before going hard at it, I would say to have a go on some older / almost worn out kingpins first, but in general, have everything on the setup where you want it, truck all mounted, bushings how you like them and see how much kingpin is sticking up.
Then with the grinder just do a bit at a time, some from the left, some right, etc so you are not heating the kingpin too much (which can cook the bushings to bubbling point) but ever so slightly rounding it off as you go. Even do one for a bit, then the other for a bit, to give it time to cool, but I usually did up to three threads on each in maybe five or so minutes without issue.
As long as you round the kingpin heads a bit as you go, the nut will still easily come off and go back on fine too, but you can take it down to just above where you want it easily, giving you more kingpin clearance on any truck.
I did this a while back, for show and tell:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMGt_osFWe0/
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Why is there kind of a conception that Indy's must be kept close to stock? I don't know the term precisely, but it's a conception that stock is best and everyone runs them stock. I see more people with cranked Indy's because they won't try harder bushings than I do with cranked Thunders but that's cuz I see more people willing to swap Thunder bushings out for something harder. It's almost a group-think mentality I even had it myself with Indy.
Don't think there is. Have only ever heard people say that about ace's. Me saying that in this instance is just an acknowledgement of my madness and me trying to handle it lol.
See also- the dude a few posts up that would rather crank oranges than run bushings that are working for him.
Also came up in the Ben/GH truck video a few times "you buy them and they just work you don't need to touch anything".
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Why is there kind of a conception that Indy's must be kept close to stock? I don't know the term precisely, but it's a conception that stock is best and everyone runs them stock. I see more people with cranked Indy's because they won't try harder bushings than I do with cranked Thunders but that's cuz I see more people willing to swap Thunder bushings out for something harder. It's almost a group-think mentality I even had it myself with Indy.
Don't think there is. Have only ever heard people say that about ace's. Me saying that in this instance is just an acknowledgement of my madness and me trying to handle it lol.
See also- the dude a few posts up that would rather crank oranges than run bushings that are working for him.
Also came up in the Ben/GH truck video a few times "you buy them and they just work you don't need to touch anything".
"Because, ya know"
No, actually I don't.
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I’ve always rode Indy’s stock. I hate cranking them down and seeing my kingpin. I threw some Indy Hard bushings (black) in my forged hollows, and I love it. Good turn and still responsive. Less kingpin showing and hoping they last longer than the stock orange bushings
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I’ve been on an ACE kick for 2 years now, switched couple of set-ups over.
Bought some classic 11s for a cruiser build, but wasn’t quite happy with it, they were a touch too wide. So I switched them for the Indy 101s (about 37 years old) I had on my 4-year old’s board, changed up the bushings and it TURNS.
I had to redrill mounting holes to accommodate the old hole pattern, but damn, the old geometry is beautiful.
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It is definitely a personal thing.
Truck choice really does depend on how you skate and what you like to do. I have boards with lots of trucks, more than anything just to be able to let people skate them and see what the trucks are like, but most I can skate well enough on whatever setups they are on, be it Thunder, Venture, Ace, Destructo, Theeve, or any of the other brands.
Indy just ticks all the boxes for me, all the sizes I need for whatever boards I want to ride, tall enough with bigger wheels, turns great for how I like my boards to feel, good kingpin clearance, even more after I angle grind down the kingpins a couple of threads, etc.
Speaking of that, someone sent me this a while back and I had saved it (sorry I forgot if anyone had posted it before too).
Reynolds had someone machine down his kingpins a couple of threads and it looks very well done.
(https://i.ibb.co/K7VGg8h/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K7VGg8h)
(https://i.ibb.co/RPQSKJb/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg)
Anyone have the instructions to do this?
I got my 149 setup with the pig hards and they’re good but I kinda prefer the stock orange cranked down cause you know
Pulls the hangar back and has a tight setup but soft bushing thing going on where you still get some lean but it’s tight so you can pop straight up with no effort
Take the hanger off and get an older nut you don't might ruining the nylock on.
Turn that nut all the way down the thread.
Cut thread at desired height with a grinder. Run then grinder around it to neaten it up.
Then unthread that old nut and it should cut a nice groove on the way off. Maybe run it up and down a couple times to clean the thread up.
Then you should be good to go.
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I’ve been on an ACE kick for 2 years now, switched couple of set-ups over.
Bought some classic 11s for a cruiser build, but wasn’t quite happy with it, they were a touch too wide. So I switched them for the Indy 101s (about 37 years old) I had on my 4-year old’s board, changed up the bushings and it TURNS.
I had to redrill mounting holes to accommodate the old hole pattern, but damn, the old geometry is beautiful.
I have some 22 classics on a zip zinger but I've been considering 109s for it just out of curiosity and that cool looking T hanger.
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I’ve been on an ACE kick for 2 years now, switched couple of set-ups over.
Bought some classic 11s for a cruiser build, but wasn’t quite happy with it, they were a touch too wide. So I switched them for the Indy 101s (about 37 years old) I had on my 4-year old’s board, changed up the bushings and it TURNS.
I had to redrill mounting holes to accommodate the old hole pattern, but damn, the old geometry is beautiful.
I have some 22 classics on a zip zinger but I've been considering 109s for it just out of curiosity and that cool looking T hanger.
They are sick looking for sure. They came off an old Freestyle deck, and had the bushings upside down to prevent turning too much, so I never really gave them a fair chance, just threw some Bones bushings in and made it soft enough for my daughter to learn how to turn.
But I changed up the bushings again and now it has a really nice squirrelly turn.
The 109’s are pretty much the same geometry from what I understand, just a tad different in axle size I think.
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The pics might be a bit on the poor side, but these ones taken last night after the session, two of my boards, one untouched stock and the other modified for comparison. Same angle looking down to see how much difference there is in kingpin clearance.
This one I had modified and took a little more time to make the kingpin nice, rather than just round off the head at the nut on an old worn truck.
(https://i.ibb.co/jWsnKRy/Indy-standard-comparison-truck.jpg) (https://ibb.co/z7DqcJX)
(https://i.ibb.co/xYhg0y8/Indy-standard-modified-truck.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r3kpSgf)
(https://i.ibb.co/6DfzVJM/Indy-standard-stock-truck.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p49cGr7)
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If you don't have a grinder, then a good quality metal file would probably take the kingpin down. A Nicholson bastard file isn't too expensive, and you'd be less likely to over-do it if you're not familiar with powered grinders.
I recently tried Indy 'medium hard' bushings (the blue ones) and like them. I think they're 92 duro, whereas the stock orange bushings are 90.
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Thanks for the tips guys, time to add another Milwaukee tool to my arsenal haha
Gnar to all
Yeah I did what would be common sense/smart and throw in harder bushings(Indy blue, black and even the yellow) but it wasn’t the same as cranking them down
Also drawback on the pigs, tightening them too much they rip like dohdohs did. The material they use is almost like plastic rubber hybrid
Cranking them down just puts the geo where I want it to be, idk how insignificant but it does pull the hangar back
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.
It is definitely a personal thing.
Truck choice really does depend on how you skate and what you like to do. I have boards with lots of trucks, more than anything just to be able to let people skate them and see what the trucks are like, but most I can skate well enough on whatever setups they are on, be it Thunder, Venture, Ace, Destructo, Theeve, or any of the other brands.
Indy just ticks all the boxes for me, all the sizes I need for whatever boards I want to ride, tall enough with bigger wheels, turns great for how I like my boards to feel, good kingpin clearance, even more after I angle grind down the kingpins a couple of threads, etc.
Speaking of that, someone sent me this a while back and I had saved it (sorry I forgot if anyone had posted it before too).
Reynolds had someone machine down his kingpins a couple of threads and it looks very well done.
(https://i.ibb.co/K7VGg8h/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K7VGg8h)
(https://i.ibb.co/RPQSKJb/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg)
This post reminded me that I can't think of any footage of Reynolds smith grinding something.
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.
It is definitely a personal thing.
Truck choice really does depend on how you skate and what you like to do. I have boards with lots of trucks, more than anything just to be able to let people skate them and see what the trucks are like, but most I can skate well enough on whatever setups they are on, be it Thunder, Venture, Ace, Destructo, Theeve, or any of the other brands.
Indy just ticks all the boxes for me, all the sizes I need for whatever boards I want to ride, tall enough with bigger wheels, turns great for how I like my boards to feel, good kingpin clearance, even more after I angle grind down the kingpins a couple of threads, etc.
Speaking of that, someone sent me this a while back and I had saved it (sorry I forgot if anyone had posted it before too).
Reynolds had someone machine down his kingpins a couple of threads and it looks very well done.
(https://i.ibb.co/K7VGg8h/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K7VGg8h)
(https://i.ibb.co/RPQSKJb/Indy-trucks-Reynolds-kingpin-cutdown.jpg)
Plus we all know he has OD madness. Seems to be the case here. Good point out.
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yea @Xen idk wtf i was thinking, these standards are way too heavy lmfao. Madness is a bitch.
I should rephrase that, I know what i was thinking, i posted it a while back. I was just wrong hahaha.
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Ti hangers on cast plates is pretty nice. @LebowskisRug was right.
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Bumping to reiterate 149 Ti hangers on cast plates. Idk how my madness hasnt brought me to try this sooner. I just had a full day of skating diy/street/park. All places i had never been (took a day trip to richmond) and my trucks felt great everywhere. I'm even running the standard bushings which i havent done in years. These jawns tight, highly recommend.
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I have two of the exact same set ups, Crail - Loveseat on Indy, and the other on Ace, both have their merits. Indy’s are lighter (titanium), more stable, and grind better, but god damn Ace just has a magical turn. I switch it up regularly and don’t have a preference really.
I haven’t run stock orange bushings on Indy’s in years though aside on Titanium 169’s that I don’t skate much; for a while I went with soft red but the last set I had took so long to break in so now I run the super soft white. Ace I run completely stock and felt great first session.
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I have two of the exact same set ups, Crail - Loveseat on Indy, and the other on Ace, both have their merits. Indy’s are lighter (titanium), more stable, and grind better, but god damn Ace just has a magical turn. I switch it up regularly and don’t have a preference really.
I haven’t run stock orange bushings on Indy’s in years though aside on Titanium 169’s that I don’t skate much; for a while I went with soft red but the last set I had took so long to break in so now I run the super soft white. Ace I run completely stock and felt great first session.
Ace's are fun. But i keep them on my boards that i dont really care about landing tricks on for a reason haha. pop, grind, pinch, and stability are all pretty poor for me. I'll keep them on my cruisers. Indy's if im trying to ACTUALLY skate.
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Bumping to say that Gustav rides 149's (forged i think?)
Yes, this is important
Yes, I DM'd him
Yes, I did it like a man
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Bumping to say that Gustav rides 149's (forged i think?)
Yes, this is important
Yes, I DM'd him
Yes, I did it like a man
That's what I ride. Makes me like them even more.
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Bumping to say that Gustav rides 149's (forged i think?)
Yes, this is important
Yes, I DM'd him
Yes, I did it like a man
Me too
149's seem to be the most universal truck
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To me the size matters less than if forged or not. Ave rides forged and Mids it seems. 149 seems really common with pros. He rides the HLC 8.3 and 8.25, which kinda taper towards the rail and are wider in the middle. You can definitely tell he's on 149.
I've been liking Thunder and skating well on them but this thread always kicks off shitty madness. I have a setup for my son that is an old deck with 144 cast/ti and no wheels. I've skated it a few times and I still skate well on them, but some things just aren't as consistent and coming off Thunders the height does throw me off a bit, but it helps with landing near wheel bite and I have my best nose manuals and manuals with them. Wheels are back off and I put the mega soft conical bushings in as he only weighs 32lb but he's getting the hang of leaning and balancing on it
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To me the size matters less than if forged or not. Ave rides forged and Mids it seems. 149 seems really common with pros. He rides the HLC 8.3 and 8.25, which kinda taper towards the rail and are wider in the middle. You can definitely tell he's on 149.
I've been liking Thunder and skating well on them but this thread always kicks off shitty madness. I have a setup for my son that is an old deck with 144 cast/ti and no wheels. I've skated it a few times and I still skate well on them, but some things just aren't as consistent and coming off Thunders the height does throw me off a bit, but it helps with landing near wheel bite and I have my best nose manuals and manuals with them. Wheels are back off and I put the mega soft conical bushings in as he only weighs 32lb but he's getting the hang of leaning and balancing on it
I like 144s on forged plates, i like 149 on cast. The recent swap to ti hangers on cast plates has been perfect for me.
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I just moved up to 149s, but all my old Indy stuff is 144 and my hangers were really getting solid grooves
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Y’all have me wanting to put cast baseplates on ti hangers.
What’s the pros and cons does the taller baseplate bring? I went from thunder to Royal and back to Indy tis and kept the forge baseplate cause I thought it would be the height I’m used to. I know I can just try but I don’t have a ton of time to skate so I don’t wanna spend it switch baseplates and stuff if it’s not gonna fit my style. I skate typically ledges and some diy tranny
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Y’all have me wanting to put cast baseplates on ti hangers.
What’s the pros and cons does the taller baseplate bring? I went from thunder to Royal and back to Indy tis and kept the forge baseplate cause I thought it would be the height I’m used to. I know I can just try but I don’t have a ton of time to skate so I don’t wanna spend it switch baseplates and stuff if it’s not gonna fit my style. I skate typically ledges and some diy tranny
Pro: Taller cast plate will bring them up to the standard 55mm allowing you to accommodate bigger wheels without the use of risers
Con: Heavier than forged if that matters to you
Con: Could feel tippy if you are used to low(er) trucks
If the forged plates works for you, don't worry about it. My only experience with indy cast and ti hanger is using the aftermarket IKP cast plate, which are heavier than the standard cast plates so the ti hanger weight reduction was pretty much moot; skating them was just a tall indy. Personally, I like the forged height (53.5) and the forged mid (50.5)...if I'm hitting any tranny I'll use the forged ti and some 53/54mm wheels.
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I run 149s on 8.5 bloards but have been considering sizing down to 144s on 8.38 today. Mostly to improve my abismal flip game.
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I prefer the lower height of forged plates. They definitely wheelbite faster/easier, but I personally rarely get pitched because of it.
I found an old board at my parent's house from 2010 with Stage 10s recently. They sure loved using that stupid iron cross logo back then..
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Y’all have me wanting to put cast baseplates on ti hangers.
What’s the pros and cons does the taller baseplate bring? I went from thunder to Royal and back to Indy tis and kept the forge baseplate cause I thought it would be the height I’m used to. I know I can just try but I don’t have a ton of time to skate so I don’t wanna spend it switch baseplates and stuff if it’s not gonna fit my style. I skate typically ledges and some diy tranny
Given your previous time on other lower trucks, I wouldn't suggest it unless you want to run larger wheels, or you are looking to alter the pop feel of your indys. Cast plates are heavier and taller, so consider how that would change the feel of your board. slightly harder to pop, takes a hair longer for the tail to hit the ground.
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I run 149s on 8.5 bloards but have been considering sizing down to 144s on 8.38 today. Mostly to improve my abismal flip game.
It's not that big of a game changer and I've weighed the pros and cons as I ride 8.38 and the pros are more in favor of 149 for more grind room.
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I run 149s on 8.5 bloards but have been considering sizing down to 144s on 8.38 today. Mostly to improve my abismal flip game.
Easier to flip, especially if youre on 149 standards and move to a hollow/forge/ti 144. but less grind room and stability. be aware that moving from cast to forged plates will def alter your popfeel
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Thanks lads I guess I would stick to hollows. I like the height on those meaning I can run them without risers. I had 144s before and never felt restrained on grinds. We‘ll see, my 149s have some life in them still and I have two 8.5 decks on ice so I don‘t have to make up my mind just yet.
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Re forged vs. standard....unless you are one of those people who has an acute like/dislike for the way forged vs. cast plates feel, you can always make a forged plate a tad taller with small riser. However, you can never make a cast plate lower. Thus, forged gives you more height options, w/o tweaking anything else on your set-up (e.g. wheel size).
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Peter Hewitt actually runs 159 Forged Ti with risers for that reason because his wheels weigh about as much as a midsized sedan.
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Peter Hewitt actually runs 159 Forged Ti with risers for that reason because his wheels weigh about as much as a midsized sedan.
LOL.
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Standard height stage 11 with IKP. That's a new thing, right?
https://www.titus-shop.com/en/independent-truck-144-stage-11-louie-lopez-ikp-black-0123468/ (https://www.titus-shop.com/en/independent-truck-144-stage-11-louie-lopez-ikp-black-0123468/)
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Standard height stage 11 with IKP. That's a new thing, right?
https://www.titus-shop.com/en/independent-truck-144-stage-11-louie-lopez-ikp-black-0123468/ (https://www.titus-shop.com/en/independent-truck-144-stage-11-louie-lopez-ikp-black-0123468/)
I certainly haven't seen these before.
Would be cool if they offered titanium hangers on the standard height ikp plates.
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Do we know if more pros ride the standard or forged plates? I would be curious to know if one is much preferred over the other and not just a total toss up.
I guess you would kind of have to break that down by discipline though. Transition/street.
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Do we know if more pros ride the standard or forged plates? I would be curious to know if one is much preferred over the other and not just a total toss up.
I guess you would kind of have to break that down by discipline though. Transition/street.
I think I read or heard somewhere - Thrasher mag or IG that most pros just run whatever is in the box, which is usually the standards, unless they specifically request for Hollow, Ti, etc. I imagine Knox, Joslin, etc. were interested in Hollows so Indy ran a stint of Hollow/Hollow Forged for them and the public. Beyond that, I'm not too sure, otherwise.
Good poll/data collection idea!
Side note: I often wonder about pros/sponsored/ams/etc. that skate really well and how specific do they get with their setup. Do they focus as deeply as many Slap pals do or only just a little bit? Is what's in the box good enough or do they do some minor/major tinkering with all the gear they get?
I recall a few pros do stuff with trucks so they ride how they like. Setup videos on YouTube were cool for that: Bobby Worrest, Joslin, and some others had theirs on some YouTube channel
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Do we know if more pros ride the standard or forged plates? I would be curious to know if one is much preferred over the other and not just a total toss up.
I guess you would kind of have to break that down by discipline though. Transition/street.
I think I read or heard somewhere - Thrasher mag or IG that most pros just run whatever is in the box, which is usually the standards, unless they specifically request for Hollow, Ti, etc. I imagine Knox, Joslin, etc. were interested in Hollows so Indy ran a stint of Hollow/Hollow Forged for them and the public. Beyond that, I'm not too sure, otherwise.
Good poll/data collection idea!
Side note: I often wonder about pros/sponsored/ams/etc. that skate really well and how specific do they get with their setup. Do they focus as deeply as many Slap pals do or only just a little bit? Is what's in the box good enough or do they do some minor/major tinkering with all the gear they get?
I recall a few pros do stuff with trucks so they ride how they like. Setup videos on YouTube were cool for that: Bobby Worrest, Joslin, and some others had theirs on some YouTube channel
I feel like most of the "regular dudes" just ride standards and are happy with them / whatever is in the box they are sent.
Some like Andrew Reynolds knows exactly what works for him and sets up his boards accordingly.
Then there are the others like that funny video of John Gardner they took down and edited - riding hollow forged but not knowing ti was lighter or something to that effect.
As said before, some of the vert dudes definitely go more for the hollow forged baseplate / ti axle hanger combo, like Peter Hewitt, Bucky Lasek and Tony Hawk, not that I pay that much attention to most of their setups, but people had been talking about them in terms of recreating their rider setups for those three specifically.
Evan Smith had standards, as have quite a few other Indy riders who ride raw street, transition and everything else, but listing names off the top of my head is not really something that is going to happen now.
Then there are the others who ride the mids - Reynolds, Tiago, etc.
As to what most sponno or pro dudes ride, whatever they are given from my experience, almost to the point where some don't know what they are on, or just know basics but definitely don't go half as deep as any of the regular Slap pals or others in that regard.
One guy I recall when asked by kids at a signing said something like "I just worry about the trick I am doing, not about what is on my board" which seemed so weird at the time, but made sense when you see how he skated - killed everything and didn't care. Board or something broke, just replaced it with whatever he had lying around or ready and kept on shredding. Ridiculous but amazing at the same time.
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Hey guys, after few years persuading myself I like Thunders and a year long madness stint with Thunder/Ace/Venture/Indy, my setup finally feels like home again with Indy 149 Standarts.
Do not get me wrong, all of the above mentioned brands offer some good products, but seems like when I started on Indy years ago, I’m gonna ride them till the wheels fall off.
So all in all I’m glad for this thread. Thanks.
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Do we know if more pros ride the standard or forged plates? I would be curious to know if one is much preferred over the other and not just a total toss up.
I guess you would kind of have to break that down by discipline though. Transition/street.
I think I read or heard somewhere - Thrasher mag or IG that most pros just run whatever is in the box, which is usually the standards, unless they specifically request for Hollow, Ti, etc. I imagine Knox, Joslin, etc. were interested in Hollows so Indy ran a stint of Hollow/Hollow Forged for them and the public. Beyond that, I'm not too sure, otherwise.
Good poll/data collection idea!
Side note: I often wonder about pros/sponsored/ams/etc. that skate really well and how specific do they get with their setup. Do they focus as deeply as many Slap pals do or only just a little bit? Is what's in the box good enough or do they do some minor/major tinkering with all the gear they get?
I recall a few pros do stuff with trucks so they ride how they like. Setup videos on YouTube were cool for that: Bobby Worrest, Joslin, and some others had theirs on some YouTube channel
I feel like most of the "regular dudes" just ride standards and are happy with them / whatever is in the box they are sent.
Some like Andrew Reynolds knows exactly what works for him and sets up his boards accordingly.
Then there are the others like that funny video of John Gardner they took down and edited - riding hollow forged but not knowing ti was lighter or something to that effect.
As said before, some of the vert dudes definitely go more for the hollow forged baseplate / ti axle hanger combo, like Peter Hewitt, Bucky Lasek and Tony Hawk, not that I pay that much attention to most of their setups, but people had been talking about them in terms of recreating their rider setups for those three specifically.
Evan Smith had standards, as have quite a few other Indy riders who ride raw street, transition and everything else, but listing names off the top of my head is not really something that is going to happen now.
Then there are the others who ride the mids - Reynolds, Tiago, etc.
As to what most sponno or pro dudes ride, whatever they are given from my experience, almost to the point where some don't know what they are on, or just know basics but definitely don't go half as deep as any of the regular Slap pals or others in that regard.
One guy I recall when asked by kids at a signing said something like "I just worry about the trick I am doing, not about what is on my board" which seemed so weird at the time, but made sense when you see how he skated - killed everything and didn't care. Board or something broke, just replaced it with whatever he had lying around or ready and kept on shredding. Ridiculous but amazing at the same time.
I guess that's why they're pro and im just a dork on SLAP swapping my fucking hangers lol.
Hey guys, after few years persuading myself I like Thunders and a year long madness stint with Thunder/Ace/Venture/Indy, my setup finally feels like home again with Indy 149 Standarts.
Do not get me wrong, all of the above mentioned brands offer some good products, but seems like when I started on Indy years ago, I’m gonna ride them till the wheels fall off.
So all in all I’m glad for this thread. Thanks.
Yea man, no prob. You share this experience with many indy riders. I've found that many indy riders try other trucks (usually a go at each brand, like i did myself) and just circle back. Indy's arent as exciting or sexy as some of these other brands, but they've been the standard for a long time for a reason. They just work well in most situations, especially now that they have multiple height/weight options. Pretty much anyone can find an indy that suits them. On top of this, the one thing they actually do better than any other brand is grind. You just cant beat an indy grind. If you want to plow through some shit and you're not getting tensor mags (which are kind of niche, and they dont grind as fast), indy is the clear choice.
The self hating indy rider is a bit of a trope here on SLAP, but i think we would all do well to just resist the madness and embrace what we know works for us and has worked for us for a long time.
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It's self hating Indy riders or apparently in denial Thunder lovers. Ace and Venture being the only fully acceptable brands.
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It's self hating Indy riders or apparently in denial Thunder lovers. Ace and Venture being the only fully acceptable brands.
.....Nah
Indy is just old and very middle of the road in terms of most characteristics, that's why theyre not exciting. Totally acceptable though, just kinda bland.
Thunder is not a suitable replacement for all indy riders. Wasn't for me anyway. Wheelbite and grind didnt suit me, bushings sucked, and i had a hard time getting the tightness dialed. they either felt too tight or too loose for me.
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I think Indy's recent lack of excitement has more to do with their lame marketing and bro image. Seems like they're course correcting that by removing "fuck the rest"
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I think Indy's recent lack of excitement has more to do with their lame marketing and bro image. Seems like they're course correcting that by removing "fuck the rest"
I think the iron cross was really the only thing that was like straight up WRONG with their branding. IDK I'm fine with the "ride the best fuck the rest" stuff, im not as salty towards jockish mentality as a lot of people on here are. I think a bit of team pride/rivalry whatever you wanna call it can be kinda fun. And from a marketing standpoint, it makes sense to try and place your product above your competition that way.
But i get how others could not be as into that, not for everyone.
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I dunno it was the usual thing where the fans sucked……thrasher was for people who didn’t skate, Indy for guys who used to skate…..
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I think it's for a while after stage 11s came out, at least in my area even to this day, everyone was riding indys so you just kinda felt out of place if you didn't have them even if you didn't love indys. all the pros were running them too aside from some strictly street dudes that ran thunders. not to mention standard stage 11s are a good for everything truck, tons of aftermarket stuff, etc.
then all of a sudden a few years ago you had ace getting some hype and that bobby worrest venture part that really set it off.
I still like indys and think they make the best stuff, I just got tired of running the same shit over and over. especially with all those ads making ventures look cool, and aces looked pretty cool too so I had to try them out.
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I think it's for a while after stage 11s came out, at least in my area even to this day, everyone was riding indys so you just kinda felt out of place if you didn't have them even if you didn't love indys. all the pros were running them too aside from some strictly street dudes that ran thunders. not to mention standard stage 11s are a good for everything truck, tons of aftermarket stuff, etc.
then all of a sudden a few years ago you had ace getting some hype and that bobby worrest venture part that really set it off.
I still like indys and think they make the best stuff, I just got tired of running the same shit over and over. especially with all those ads making ventures look cool, and aces looked pretty cool too so I had to try them out.
Yea, they can feel stale. But the flipside of that is that they feel familiar.
Wanting something different out of your board happens to everyone at somepoint. some people are just more prone to it than others.
Whether or not that something different is good for you however, is a different subject haha.
-
Indys are a sexy truck though. Someone above said they may not be. Brand-image wise, I can give it to you there. Their trucks objectively stand out as the visual standard that knock offs and B, C, etc. tiers copy. They're fuckin beautiful lookin to me
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Indys are a sexy truck though. Someone above said they may not be. Brand-image wise, I can give it to you there. Their trucks objectively stand out as the visual standard that knock offs and B, C, etc. tiers copy. They're fuckin beautiful lookin to me
I'm jealous of this view, you make a good point though about it being the standard/classic. I will try to adopt mindset in an effort to enjoy my trucks more.
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Sorry, I feel like I’m butting into this thread with some random question, but it’s driving me crazy. Were Indy stage x trucks slightly different width? I have a bunch of pairs, at least one of which must be stage X , and some are 9” and others 9.125”. I thought they were all 169s.
“But OMC, why does it matter??”
Because sometimes a brother needs to verify that he’s not losing his shit, that’s why. :(
-
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
-
Sorry, I feel like I’m butting into this thread with some random question, but it’s driving me crazy. Were Indy stage x trucks slightly different width? I have a bunch of pairs, at least one of which must be stage X , and some are 9” and others 9.125”. I thought they were all 169s.
“But OMC, why does it matter??”
Because sometimes a brother needs to verify that he’s not losing his shit, that’s why. :(
There were definitely a few size differences, ever so slight that they were in wider sizes from Stage 8 through to Stage 11.
Stage 8 had the "6" endings, so 146, 156, 166 or so, then the next stages supposedly had the "9" again, 129 and 139 at least, 149 in the more bulky hanger, but the wider ones were a bit of a mystery.
If the ones you have are way more bulky in the hanger area, they are still from the Stage 8 molds, as it seems they didn't change them, while Stage 9 had up to 139 in the thinner hanger, then Stage 10 had the thinner hanger but also lower hangers 53.5mm in the wider sizes and Stage 11 all had thinner hangers in all sizes and all at 55mm in height.
There might have been some come out in between times as others have said they had the Stage 9 169s which were only 166 or so, wider than the common 159s now but not as wide as the 169s, which you were asking about.
________
Some info I had gathered (but neglected to note the source) below:
STAGE 8 - 1997
6 HOLES mounting base plate with cross logo added.
Introduced the 126mm truck (Duralites)
Reduced material on hanger wing to lighten up truck. Introduced new baseplate / kingpin design rendering inverted kingpin use impossible.
STAGE 9 - 2003
Introduced an all-new lighter weight hanger and base plate; designed to be rigid for performance and durability.
Added all-new, ultra durable 4140 chrome alloy steel axles
Reduced thread length on axle for tight bearing-to-axle fit and a faster, smoother ride
Precision drilled mounting, kingpin, and pivot holes to ride straight for improved performance
Same FAST-ACTION Independent Truck Co. geometry
- the first stage that was computer drafted.The truck ended up quite a bit lower.from 55mm to 53.5mm, totally altering the turn. It didn't help that the baseplates sucked too.Those things broke.
STAGE 10 - 2009
Returned to a beefed-up baseplate BUT the lower geometry remained and the trucks just didn't turn like old Indys, making many riders to look to past models to get the perfect turn.
STAGE 11 - 2012
“I wanted to get it back as close as possible to the Stage V to VII geometry,” return to the classic 55mm height and pivot and kingpin angles inspired by Stage V.
Stage VIII - original release date 9/98
126 (new size)
136
146
156
166
Stage IX - original release date 2/03
129
139
149
159
169
* This last bit didn't add up for the trucks I have in Stage 9 wider sizes, as said, still more like 166
-
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
sorry mate, had to be done
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41W5Gkm8Q8L._AC_SY350_.jpg)
-
Sorry, I feel like I’m butting into this thread with some random question, but it’s driving me crazy. Were Indy stage x trucks slightly different width? I have a bunch of pairs, at least one of which must be stage X , and some are 9” and others 9.125”. I thought they were all 169s.
“But OMC, why does it matter??”
Because sometimes a brother needs to verify that he’s not losing his shit, that’s why. :(
No worries, that's what it is here for. And look at all this cool old info we got from @Mbrimson88 after you asked.
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
Yea this discussion has been had a thousand times. And while you might be technically right, most people don't view the symbol that way. Nazis stole the swastika too, but people still largely attribute that symbol as belonging to them. Given the public perspective, Indy probably did the right thing to abandon the iron cross. Don't really think it's up to a truck company to try and educate people on things like that. And I don't really feel like they felt strongly enough about it to risk the company over it.
-
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
I feel like most people who are truly that upset about the logo change inevitably have the old Indy iron cross logo tattooed somewhere on their body, so they can just look at that when they get sad that it’s no longer on the baseplate of the truck where it disappears after about a week of nose/tailslides anyway
-
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
I have no idea why ostensibly grown adults with real lives to live spend their time on earth concerned with the branding of the Independent Truck Company.
-
Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
-
Expand Quote
Sorry, I feel like I’m butting into this thread with some random question, but it’s driving me crazy. Were Indy stage x trucks slightly different width? I have a bunch of pairs, at least one of which must be stage X , and some are 9” and others 9.125”. I thought they were all 169s.
“But OMC, why does it matter??”
Because sometimes a brother needs to verify that he’s not losing his shit, that’s why. :(
No worries, that's what it is here for. And look at all this cool old info we got from @Mbrimson88 after you asked.
Expand Quote
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
Yea this discussion has been had a thousand times. And while you might be technically right, most people don't view the symbol that way. Nazis stole the swastika too, but people still largely attribute that symbol as belonging to them. Given the public perspective, Indy probably did the right thing to abandon the iron cross. Don't really think it's up to a truck company to try and educate people on things like that. And I don't really feel like they felt strongly enough about it to risk the company over it.
If you read through instagram/youtube comments the public perspective is definitely not in favor of removing the iron cross. i see more people at the skatepark wearing the old logo on t shirts/clothing than i ever do wearing the new logo. indy blew it and it's like they tried to retain their edgy image by doing that lame ass collab with slayer among other things but no one buys it. they lost a lot of loyal supporters who probably are experimenting with ace or thunder now
-
New logo is whatever? The trucks are sick af. Tragic they no longer get the diehard iron cross historians amped, RIP. Luckily thunder, ace, venture make good trucks with decent logos, and there are no shortage of other options. Maybe the Slappy truck logo will be a better vibe for them.
-
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Sorry, I feel like I’m butting into this thread with some random question, but it’s driving me crazy. Were Indy stage x trucks slightly different width? I have a bunch of pairs, at least one of which must be stage X , and some are 9” and others 9.125”. I thought they were all 169s.
“But OMC, why does it matter??”
Because sometimes a brother needs to verify that he’s not losing his shit, that’s why. :(
No worries, that's what it is here for. And look at all this cool old info we got from @Mbrimson88 after you asked.
Expand Quote
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
Yea this discussion has been had a thousand times. And while you might be technically right, most people don't view the symbol that way. Nazis stole the swastika too, but people still largely attribute that symbol as belonging to them. Given the public perspective, Indy probably did the right thing to abandon the iron cross. Don't really think it's up to a truck company to try and educate people on things like that. And I don't really feel like they felt strongly enough about it to risk the company over it.
If you read through instagram/youtube comments the public perspective is definitely not in favor of removing the iron cross. i see more people at the skatepark wearing the old logo on t shirts/clothing than i ever do wearing the new logo. indy blew it and it's like they tried to retain their edgy image by doing that lame ass collab with slayer among other things but no one buys it. they lost a lot of loyal supporters who probably are experimenting with ace or thunder now
Dude that's a terrible way to look at things.
1. That's not the public opinion, it's a loud minority and most people don't care at all.
2. You see more of the old logo because clothes with that logo have been sold for decades, so there are a loooot of them.
-
New logo is whatever? The trucks are sick af. Tragic they no longer get the diehard iron cross historians amped, RIP. Luckily thunder, ace, venture make good trucks with decent logos, and there are no shortage of other options. Maybe the Slappy truck logo will be a better vibe for them.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
This right here. Most people don’t care and the lack of the iron cross doesn’t change the fact that they’re great trucks
-
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Sorry, I feel like I’m butting into this thread with some random question, but it’s driving me crazy. Were Indy stage x trucks slightly different width? I have a bunch of pairs, at least one of which must be stage X , and some are 9” and others 9.125”. I thought they were all 169s.
“But OMC, why does it matter??”
Because sometimes a brother needs to verify that he’s not losing his shit, that’s why. :(
No worries, that's what it is here for. And look at all this cool old info we got from @Mbrimson88 after you asked.
Expand Quote
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
Yea this discussion has been had a thousand times. And while you might be technically right, most people don't view the symbol that way. Nazis stole the swastika too, but people still largely attribute that symbol as belonging to them. Given the public perspective, Indy probably did the right thing to abandon the iron cross. Don't really think it's up to a truck company to try and educate people on things like that. And I don't really feel like they felt strongly enough about it to risk the company over it.
If you read through instagram/youtube comments the public perspective is definitely not in favor of removing the iron cross. i see more people at the skatepark wearing the old logo on t shirts/clothing than i ever do wearing the new logo. indy blew it and it's like they tried to retain their edgy image by doing that lame ass collab with slayer among other things but no one buys it. they lost a lot of loyal supporters who probably are experimenting with ace or thunder now
Dude that's a terrible way to look at things.
1. That's not the public opinion, it's a loud minority and most people don't care at all.
2. You see more of the old logo because clothes with that logo have been sold for decades, so there are a loooot of them.
people wearing the old independent logo on their clothes are definitely doing it intentionally. the logo was deemed a nazi symbol yet people are still risking reputation by wearing it, most likely to imply they think catering to the pc crowd is wack.
that being said, realistically the truth is probably somewhere between our two opinions
-
sorry mate, had to be done
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41W5Gkm8Q8L._AC_SY350_.jpg)
Haha, love it. Probably had to.
I have no idea why ostensibly grown adults with real lives to live spend their time on earth concerned with the branding of the Independent Truck Company.
Nor do I! Admittedly it’s a lil’ silly. Why should change in the first place.
If the pope can wear it why can’t Indy truck Co?
It was a Prussian medal of bravery. And I think that skateboarders sometimes are deserving of those. I think it fits perfectly. Like, you get to wear a badge if you do gnarly shit.
Yea this discussion has been had a thousand times. And while you might be technically right, most people don't view the symbol that way. Nazis stole the swastika too, but people still largely attribute that symbol as belonging to them. Given the public perspective, Indy probably did the right thing to abandon the iron cross. Don't really think it's up to a truck company to try and educate people on things like that. And I don't really feel like they felt strongly enough about it to risk the company over it.
I weren’t in slap for the first 1000 discussions about this. Sorry for bringing it up again, I was merely reacting to a comment a few post above mine.
I think you’re right 100% - I just wish everyone who gets easily offended didn’t always have their way, and make everyone else dance to their tune.
It’s less of a struggle to just succumb and change shit up. But it does take away from their rebellious image and their history.
Same story with the upside down cross. That shit still a Christian symbol.
Also it could be debated that the Indy cross isn’t exactly like the Prussian/German one.
-
Indy cross isn’t an iron cross. Don’t give a shit that they got rid of it either. If you base your life on an advertisement that’s pretty sad.
Here’s a real Indy tattoo:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CloMwL0gUIf/?igshid=Zjc2ZTc4Nzk=
Burn baby, burn.
-
New logo is whatever? The trucks are sick af. Tragic they no longer get the diehard iron cross historians amped, RIP. Luckily thunder, ace, venture make good trucks with decent logos, and there are no shortage of other options. Maybe the Slappy truck logo will be a better vibe for them.
-
Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
-
Expand Quote
Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
I'm not really good or very technical and at 200lbs I don't get wheel bite with my 151s, (stock bushings, nut flush). I def get a little wheel rub but not to the point of biting until I stop. 1/8" riser is all I need. I honestly prefer the way Thunder turn with a riser also and def prefer the turn to an Indy. Rotating between Ace and Thunder leaves me little use for Indy.
I'll certainly be tempted to check out those Stage 4 reissues... but generally speaking the height and quick response of Ace and Thunder feels way better to me.
-
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
I'm not really good or very technical and at 200lbs I don't get wheel bite with my 151s, (stock bushings, nut flush). I def get a little wheel rub but not to the point of biting until I stop. 1/8" riser is all I need. I honestly prefer the way Thunder turn with a riser also and def prefer the turn to an Indy. Rotating between Ace and Thunder leaves me little use for Indy.
I'll certainly be tempted to check out those Stage 4 reissues... but generally speaking the height and quick response of Ace and Thunder feels way better to me.
Not wanting to rotate between ace and thunder IS the use for indy haha. I'm just messing around though. Ride what you have the most fun/skate the best on!
-
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Sorry, I feel like I’m butting into this thread with some random question, but it’s driving me crazy. Were Indy stage x trucks slightly different width? I have a bunch of pairs, at least one of which must be stage X , and some are 9” and others 9.125”. I thought they were all 169s.
“But OMC, why does it matter??”
Because sometimes a brother needs to verify that he’s not losing his shit, that’s why. :(
No worries, that's what it is here for. And look at all this cool old info we got from @Mbrimson88 after you asked.
Expand Quote
I�m ready. You can all cancel me after this.
I don�t get why Indy is abandoning their branding. Like the iron cross stuff. Just because some uncultured Cancel-Karen got offended from a logo, Indy has to change all their stickers, hoodies, t-shirts and trucks.
The Teutonic order were like German Red Cross in the Middle Ages. And in modern times have been strictly religious and charitable, until they were abolished by the nazi party in 1938. They were couped, and their sick-ass logo stolen.
I�m sure it�s probably all very masonic-illuminati-DaVinci codeesque nowadays.
But like - not nazi at all.
Also, like I don�t know shit about NorCal and biker gangs and shit, but that iron cross can�t be that bad.
Indy just want to be more gentrified, so that moms that want to buy skateboards for their kids, will pick their trucks.
I�m going to miss it a little. The sheer arrogance of �RTB -FTR� was brilliant.
Yea this discussion has been had a thousand times. And while you might be technically right, most people don't view the symbol that way. Nazis stole the swastika too, but people still largely attribute that symbol as belonging to them. Given the public perspective, Indy probably did the right thing to abandon the iron cross. Don't really think it's up to a truck company to try and educate people on things like that. And I don't really feel like they felt strongly enough about it to risk the company over it.
If you read through instagram/youtube comments the public perspective is definitely not in favor of removing the iron cross. i see more people at the skatepark wearing the old logo on t shirts/clothing than i ever do wearing the new logo. indy blew it and it's like they tried to retain their edgy image by doing that lame ass collab with slayer among other things but no one buys it. they lost a lot of loyal supporters who probably are experimenting with ace or thunder now
"The loudest and most annoying mouthbreather cranks in the comment section are deeply unhappy about a brand changing their logo. This is bad news for the Independent Truck Company!"
-
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Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
I'm not really good or very technical and at 200lbs I don't get wheel bite with my 151s, (stock bushings, nut flush). I def get a little wheel rub but not to the point of biting until I stop. 1/8" riser is all I need. I honestly prefer the way Thunder turn with a riser also and def prefer the turn to an Indy. Rotating between Ace and Thunder leaves me little use for Indy.
I'll certainly be tempted to check out those Stage 4 reissues... but generally speaking the height and quick response of Ace and Thunder feels way better to me.
Not wanting to rotate between ace and thunder IS the use for indy haha. I'm just messing around though. Ride what you have the most fun/skate the best on!
That's a good point. Indy is a nice compromise between Ace and Thunder. But I'm OK rotating. I am mostly on Ace but keep my 151s for the occasional shorter wheelbase deck or when I want a more stable set up.
-
Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
-
Expand Quote
Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
Thunder bushings, turn, and grind are fine. Made up bullshit. Unless you live in super cold climates, but I had Indy bushings feel just as melty in the heat as Thunder, hold my grinds just as well on both. I'm not really good and technical, it's just a nice truck that works with the way I like to turn. I was getting a lot of wheelbite for a minute on 149s, but looking at pics of old decks I get a lot less on Thunders now than on Indy Standards. The only thing bringing me back to Indy is industry brainwashing.
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Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
Yes, I believe those baseplates will make your trucks the standard Indy height 55mm vs 53.5 on the forged
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Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
Thunder bushings, turn, and grind are fine. Made up bullshit. Unless you live in super cold climates, but I had Indy bushings feel just as melty in the heat as Thunder, hold my grinds just as well on both. I'm not really good and technical, it's just a nice truck that works with the way I like to turn. I was getting a lot of wheelbite for a minute on 149s, but looking at pics of old decks I get a lot less on Thunders now than on Indy Standards. The only thing bringing me back to Indy is industry brainwashing.
Tell us how you really feel.
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Slap makes way too big of a deal about trucks. They're all perfectly fine when you find one that turns and pops like you like. There is no #1 because trucks are a zero sum game.
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Slap makes way too big of a deal about trucks. They're all perfectly fine when you find one that turns and pops like you like. There is no #1 because trucks are a zero sum game.
Yea, it's all a matter of taste/perspective. But there are obvious strengths/weaknesses of each, that's why it ultimately comes down to the individual.
This is from the thunder thread though, from a thunder rider.
The elephant in the room here is the thunder bushings. Oh man it's been such a shitshow for me - I am a bigger dude that lives in a hot climate so right off the bat the stock bushings are too loose and they would crack within 3 sessions anyway. The onlything I could do was get the aftermarket rebuild kits for 95 and 100 duro, these are kind of shit on the first sessions until they break in as is perfectly normal, then they keep getting looser and looser at a pretty noticable rate let alone the temperature sensitivity and the blowouts. At some point the 100du ones felt like they were loose but just with a pretty slow rebound. Idk at the end of the day the fact that they quickly change their response is the worst bit for me it makes it hard to get used to. Otherwise great trucks.
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Ya not surprised heavy riders crack bushings all the time. My 200lb friend does the same with Indy Orange. Trucks are designed for 140lb kids. Another friend rides the 97A rebuild kit just fine and is a heavier dude. They are bad in the cold that's for sure although I've got no issues in the low 50's myself. Meanwhile the gazillion people I know that ride Thunder in the Bay seem just fine and thought it was weird when I had a washer/bushing issue. Id hardly say a Slap review is endemic.
I know if I switched back to Indy it would be for none of the reasons you listed .
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Ya not surprised heavy riders crack bushings all the time. My 200lb friend does the same with Indy Orange. Meanwhile the gazillion people I know that ride Thunder in the Bay seem just fine and thought it was weird when I had a washer/bushing issue. Id hardly say a Slap review is endemic.
From my experience, thunder bushings crack more easily. I'm 165-175lbs.
I destroyed a set in roughly a month, and when i replaced them I cracked one of the new bottoms completely through in the first session. I was running the nut about flush to maybe 1/2 a thread showing at the most.
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not sure if anyone has mentioned this in this thread but if you want to get rid of that horrible squeak that indy's make, just lube the pivot cup. not sure what the best product is for this. i thought it was the bushings for the longest time but nope. i put indy bushings in my ace trucks and no noise at all. so it has to be the pivot cups. i noticed the other brands (At least ACE) put some goop in there, but indy just goes in dry.
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not sure if anyone has mentioned this in this thread but if you want to get rid of that horrible squeak that indy's make, just lube the pivot cup. not sure what the best product is for this. i thought it was the bushings for the longest time but nope. i put indy bushings in my ace trucks and no noise at all. so it has to be the pivot cups. i noticed the other brands (At least ACE) put some goop in there, but indy just goes in dry.
Dab a qtip in motor oil and coat all surfaces as lightly as possible.
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Finally a thread to get something off my chest. Is it technically “Indys” or “Indies” when pluralized?
This is it. I always write "indy trucks" because I just don't know the answer.
I'd have to say "Indys" because it looks more correct. That is all. But who knows? Definitely not me.
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When a regular noun ends in a consonant + y, you add "ies". However "Indy" shortens the name "Independent", which is a proper noun. In the case of proper nouns, you do not change the spelling, and you simply add an S to the end. There are exceptions, such as when a name ends with X, S, Z, CH, or SH, none of which applies here.
For example, the Kennedy family doesn't become the Kennedies when they gather in a large group, they become the Kennedys. Independent is no different.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=41990083674269
At the 50.5mm height, these are almost like Indy “lows”. Usually low trucks always have issues with kingpin clearance but since these have the ikp shouldn’t be an issue. Food for thought
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=41990083674269
At the 50.5mm height, these are almost like Indy “lows”. Usually low trucks always have issues with kingpin clearance but since these have the ikp shouldn’t be an issue. Food for thought
These are my go to Indy model these days. They feel so good paired with 51mm or under wheels.
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Ya not surprised heavy riders crack bushings all the time. My 200lb friend does the same with Indy Orange. Meanwhile the gazillion people I know that ride Thunder in the Bay seem just fine and thought it was weird when I had a washer/bushing issue. Id hardly say a Slap review is endemic.
From my experience, thunder bushings crack more easily. I'm 165-175lbs.
I destroyed a set in roughly a month, and when i replaced them I cracked one of the new bottoms completely through in the first session. I was running the nut about flush to maybe 1/2 a thread showing at the most.
I'm 163-165 and have ridden Thunders for around 25 years more or less at weights of 130-200lbs. I've cracked 2 top bushings from slappies, which isn't bad. In that time I've probably destroyed a dozen Venture bushings and had just as many Indy bushings crack. I find Thunder bushings don't need to break in and once I set them I never have to touch them again. I know a lot of people that ride Thunders and feel the same way save for the weirdos that find it mandatory to put Bones in everything. Saying they have bushing problems is a pretty big exaggeration, whereas Venture tops shredding is a given.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=41990083674269
At the 50.5mm height, these are almost like Indy “lows”. Usually low trucks always have issues with kingpin clearance but since these have the ikp shouldn’t be an issue. Food for thought
These are my go to Indy model these days. They feel so good paired with 51mm or under wheels.
I had never known anyone to ride these but recently took a vacation to Miami, rolled up to a skatepark, and the other 3 people skating all had them and were really, really stoked on them.
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Ya not surprised heavy riders crack bushings all the time. My 200lb friend does the same with Indy Orange. Meanwhile the gazillion people I know that ride Thunder in the Bay seem just fine and thought it was weird when I had a washer/bushing issue. Id hardly say a Slap review is endemic.
From my experience, thunder bushings crack more easily. I'm 165-175lbs.
I destroyed a set in roughly a month, and when i replaced them I cracked one of the new bottoms completely through in the first session. I was running the nut about flush to maybe 1/2 a thread showing at the most.
I'm 163-165 and have ridden Thunders for around 25 years more or less at weights of 130-200lbs. I've cracked 2 top bushings from slappies, which isn't bad. In that time I've probably destroyed a dozen Venture bushings and had just as many Indy bushings crack. I find Thunder bushings don't need to break in and once I set them I never have to touch them again. I know a lot of people that ride Thunders and feel the same way save for the weirdos that find it mandatory to put Bones in everything. Saying they have bushing problems is a pretty big exaggeration, whereas Venture tops shredding is a given.
My experiences have led me to believe that thunders have bushing problems and I've read reports from other people that still ride thunders that say they have bushing problems.
If your experiences differ, that is fine.
But I still believe thunder bushings suck.
I'm sorry if this upsets you, i mean no offense by it.
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Ya not surprised heavy riders crack bushings all the time. My 200lb friend does the same with Indy Orange. Meanwhile the gazillion people I know that ride Thunder in the Bay seem just fine and thought it was weird when I had a washer/bushing issue. Id hardly say a Slap review is endemic.
From my experience, thunder bushings crack more easily. I'm 165-175lbs.
I destroyed a set in roughly a month, and when i replaced them I cracked one of the new bottoms completely through in the first session. I was running the nut about flush to maybe 1/2 a thread showing at the most.
I'm 163-165 and have ridden Thunders for around 25 years more or less at weights of 130-200lbs. I've cracked 2 top bushings from slappies, which isn't bad. In that time I've probably destroyed a dozen Venture bushings and had just as many Indy bushings crack. I find Thunder bushings don't need to break in and once I set them I never have to touch them again. I know a lot of people that ride Thunders and feel the same way save for the weirdos that find it mandatory to put Bones in everything. Saying they have bushing problems is a pretty big exaggeration, whereas Venture tops shredding is a given.
My experiences have led me to believe that thunders have bushing problems and I've read reports from other people that still ride thunders that say they have bushing problems.
If your experiences differ, that is fine.
But I still believe thunder bushings suck.
I'm sorry if this upsets you, i mean no offense by it.
It's just misleading to state that there are endemic issues with something when your N sample size is low. I try to avoid doing that with things I dislike.
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Ya not surprised heavy riders crack bushings all the time. My 200lb friend does the same with Indy Orange. Meanwhile the gazillion people I know that ride Thunder in the Bay seem just fine and thought it was weird when I had a washer/bushing issue. Id hardly say a Slap review is endemic.
From my experience, thunder bushings crack more easily. I'm 165-175lbs.
I destroyed a set in roughly a month, and when i replaced them I cracked one of the new bottoms completely through in the first session. I was running the nut about flush to maybe 1/2 a thread showing at the most.
I'm 163-165 and have ridden Thunders for around 25 years more or less at weights of 130-200lbs. I've cracked 2 top bushings from slappies, which isn't bad. In that time I've probably destroyed a dozen Venture bushings and had just as many Indy bushings crack. I find Thunder bushings don't need to break in and once I set them I never have to touch them again. I know a lot of people that ride Thunders and feel the same way save for the weirdos that find it mandatory to put Bones in everything. Saying they have bushing problems is a pretty big exaggeration, whereas Venture tops shredding is a given.
My experiences have led me to believe that thunders have bushing problems and I've read reports from other people that still ride thunders that say they have bushing problems.
If your experiences differ, that is fine.
But I still believe thunder bushings suck.
I'm sorry if this upsets you, i mean no offense by it.
It's just misleading to state that there are endemic issues with something when your N sample size is low. I try to avoid doing that with things I dislike.
I don't think i really did that.
And if i did, I'm not really worried about it either.
These are skateboard truck bushings we're talking about, not economics or something.
Your experiences differ from others, and you seem to have a reputation for that on here. Just let it go man, its ok, im not sweating it.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=41990083674269
At the 50.5mm height, these are almost like Indy “lows”. Usually low trucks always have issues with kingpin clearance but since these have the ikp shouldn’t be an issue. Food for thought
These are my go to Indy model these days. They feel so good paired with 51mm or under wheels.
I had never known anyone to ride these but recently took a vacation to Miami, rolled up to a skatepark, and the other 3 people skating all had them and were really, really stoked on them.
It's all speculation, but the use of 'Legendary Indy Geometry' is not the same as 'Stage XI'
Having swapped hangers/plates with forged XIs (as noted a few pages back) they don't line up leading me to think they are different - and perhaps older - geometry than Stage XI. They certainly feel different to me...they are much more responsive that stage 11s...faster carve/turn like an ACE but now loosey.
Maybe some franken truck using V-VIII? without knowing all the truck heights from V-VIII it would be hard to point a finger at where they land; 48.5 lows were SXI if I recall.
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Ya not surprised heavy riders crack bushings all the time. My 200lb friend does the same with Indy Orange. Meanwhile the gazillion people I know that ride Thunder in the Bay seem just fine and thought it was weird when I had a washer/bushing issue. Id hardly say a Slap review is endemic.
From my experience, thunder bushings crack more easily. I'm 165-175lbs.
I destroyed a set in roughly a month, and when i replaced them I cracked one of the new bottoms completely through in the first session. I was running the nut about flush to maybe 1/2 a thread showing at the most.
I'm 163-165 and have ridden Thunders for around 25 years more or less at weights of 130-200lbs. I've cracked 2 top bushings from slappies, which isn't bad. In that time I've probably destroyed a dozen Venture bushings and had just as many Indy bushings crack. I find Thunder bushings don't need to break in and once I set them I never have to touch them again. I know a lot of people that ride Thunders and feel the same way save for the weirdos that find it mandatory to put Bones in everything. Saying they have bushing problems is a pretty big exaggeration, whereas Venture tops shredding is a given.
My experiences have led me to believe that thunders have bushing problems and I've read reports from other people that still ride thunders that say they have bushing problems.
If your experiences differ, that is fine.
But I still believe thunder bushings suck.
I'm sorry if this upsets you, i mean no offense by it.
It's just misleading to state that there are endemic issues with something when your N sample size is low. I try to avoid doing that with things I dislike.
I don't think i really did that.
And if i did, I'm not really worried about it either.
These are skateboard truck bushings we're talking about, not economics or something.
Your experiences differ from others, and you seem to have a reputation for that on here. Just let it go man, its ok, im not sweating it.
Yah so finding a single post about bushings from a heavy person demonstrates my experiences differ from others. Got it.
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Ya not surprised heavy riders crack bushings all the time. My 200lb friend does the same with Indy Orange. Meanwhile the gazillion people I know that ride Thunder in the Bay seem just fine and thought it was weird when I had a washer/bushing issue. Id hardly say a Slap review is endemic.
From my experience, thunder bushings crack more easily. I'm 165-175lbs.
I destroyed a set in roughly a month, and when i replaced them I cracked one of the new bottoms completely through in the first session. I was running the nut about flush to maybe 1/2 a thread showing at the most.
I'm 163-165 and have ridden Thunders for around 25 years more or less at weights of 130-200lbs. I've cracked 2 top bushings from slappies, which isn't bad. In that time I've probably destroyed a dozen Venture bushings and had just as many Indy bushings crack. I find Thunder bushings don't need to break in and once I set them I never have to touch them again. I know a lot of people that ride Thunders and feel the same way save for the weirdos that find it mandatory to put Bones in everything. Saying they have bushing problems is a pretty big exaggeration, whereas Venture tops shredding is a given.
My experiences have led me to believe that thunders have bushing problems and I've read reports from other people that still ride thunders that say they have bushing problems.
If your experiences differ, that is fine.
But I still believe thunder bushings suck.
I'm sorry if this upsets you, i mean no offense by it.
It's just misleading to state that there are endemic issues with something when your N sample size is low. I try to avoid doing that with things I dislike.
I don't think i really did that.
And if i did, I'm not really worried about it either.
These are skateboard truck bushings we're talking about, not economics or something.
Your experiences differ from others, and you seem to have a reputation for that on here. Just let it go man, its ok, im not sweating it.
Yah so finding a single post about bushings from a heavy person demonstrates my experiences differ from others. Got it.
I've seen you all over shoes and gear having wildly different experiences with various components compared to others, this isnt a singular instance. I dont think you're lying or anything, but i have observed this. Other people on here have even mentioned that they have noticed this too. I do not hold this against you, but it seems you hold my experiences against me.
I'm sorry this seems to have upset you so much today, I hope everything is alright.
I have nothing else to add to this exchange.
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I'm not mad either. I'd like to see other examples of this. I ate my words on Royals, tried them and thought they were mostly good but my comments echo'd Ben Degros' review. Same goes for experiences with Ventures, Half Cabs/Vans skate line, and everything I can think of that I have tried in the last year other than having the same size in most NB shoes. Hopefully the details aren't coming off like that. Oh, I did like my Indy Mids too and it seems those were a dud for quite a few people.
With Thunders I don't think a lot of people post about them because they're so uninteresting. The DLX flow box truck. Doesn't do anything amazing.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=41990083674269
At the 50.5mm height, these are almost like Indy “lows”. Usually low trucks always have issues with kingpin clearance but since these have the ikp shouldn’t be an issue. Food for thought
These are my go to Indy model these days. They feel so good paired with 51mm or under wheels.
I had never known anyone to ride these but recently took a vacation to Miami, rolled up to a skatepark, and the other 3 people skating all had them and were really, really stoked on them.
It's all speculation, but the use of 'Legendary Indy Geometry' is not the same as 'Stage XI'
Having swapped hangers/plates with forged XIs (as noted a few pages back) they don't line up leading me to think they are different - and perhaps older - geometry than Stage XI. They certainly feel different to me...they are much more responsive that stage 11s...faster carve/turn like an ACE but now loosey.
Maybe some franken truck using V-VIII? without knowing all the truck heights from V-VIII it would be hard to point a finger at where they land; 48.5 lows were SXI if I recall.
At 4:38 Whaley mentions that they “turn just like the stage 11s” this is after mentioning how the Stage 11 is their longest running stage. Pretty much just dropped the axle lower in the hanger and added some aluminum for reinforcements in a few areas.
https://youtu.be/Gfk_W3W-xY0
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Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
Yes, I believe those baseplates will make your trucks the standard Indy height 55mm vs 53.5 on the forged
So the difference between cast, forged and ti is the baseplate and the hangers would be interchangeable?
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Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
Yes, I believe those baseplates will make your trucks the standard Indy height 55mm vs 53.5 on the forged
So the difference between cast, forged and ti is the baseplate and the hangers would be interchangeable?
Yes, but titaniums also use the normal forged baseplate. Only the axles are titanium
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Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
Yes, I believe those baseplates will make your trucks the standard Indy height 55mm vs 53.5 on the forged
So the difference between cast, forged and ti is the baseplate and the hangers would be interchangeable?
Yes, but titaniums also use the normal forged baseplate. Only the axles are titanium
Yup. 4 baseplates total, 2 forged, 2 cast, ikp and reg kingpin.
Def good for them (less parts to make) that they can use the same baseplates for the mids but im assuming you can ONLY use IKP on the mids? If theyre the same baseplates you probably need that extra IKP clearance for the mids to be viable.
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Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
Yes, I believe those baseplates will make your trucks the standard Indy height 55mm vs 53.5 on the forged
So the difference between cast, forged and ti is the baseplate and the hangers would be interchangeable?
Yes, but titaniums also use the normal forged baseplate. Only the axles are titanium
Nice to know, thx and have a gnar.
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Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
Yes, I believe those baseplates will make your trucks the standard Indy height 55mm vs 53.5 on the forged
So the difference between cast, forged and ti is the baseplate and the hangers would be interchangeable?
Yes, but titaniums also use the normal forged baseplate. Only the axles are titanium
Yup. 4 baseplates total, 2 forged, 2 cast, ikp and reg kingpin.
Def good for them (less parts to make) that they can use the same baseplates for the mids but im assuming you can ONLY use IKP on the mids? If theyre the same baseplates you probably need that extra IKP clearance for the mids to be viable.
I know others have said they feel like they don't easily fit on every option, but this set of inverted kingpin baseplates I have been playing with and changing around to test on every hanger, both older and newer stages, as well as mid hangers, low hangers, etc and they all work well enough on everything.
I can't think of every single option I have tried, just to see what goes, but I have definitely put Stage 11 standard, hollow axle and ti axle hangers on them, as well as Stage 10 and Stage 9 standard hangers and a few randoms like Stage 10 and 11 low hangers, as well as the mid hangers from another set that the IKP blew out on.
Edit:
Almost forgot to add, but the main issue I had was making sure all manner of bushing options worked on them, as I usually use the Indy low head bushings, they didn't really work well in the IKP option as I couldn't get the kingpin down past full lock to be comfortable, whereas the super soft were the right height but too soft, through to the super hard but the kingpin was barely down in the baseplate. Others in between were ok, but the stock bushings once worn in and feeling comfortable at full lock ended up being the best option for me for the use of the trucks.
I would definitely say that having the kingpin down to full lock in the baseplate is the best for clearance as well as less movement in the kingpin shaft too, with 78 duro bushings being mushy loose, true 88 duro bushings being very loose, 90 duro bushings being fairly loose but not at all mushy, 92 being medium to firm, 94 being firm, 96 being very stiff.
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Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
Yes, I believe those baseplates will make your trucks the standard Indy height 55mm vs 53.5 on the forged
So the difference between cast, forged and ti is the baseplate and the hangers would be interchangeable?
Yes, but titaniums also use the normal forged baseplate. Only the axles are titanium
Yup. 4 baseplates total, 2 forged, 2 cast, ikp and reg kingpin.
Def good for them (less parts to make) that they can use the same baseplates for the mids but im assuming you can ONLY use IKP on the mids? If theyre the same baseplates you probably need that extra IKP clearance for the mids to be viable.
I know others have said they feel like they don't easily fit on every option, but this set of inverted kingpin baseplates I have been playing with and changing around to test on every hanger, both older and newer stages, as well as mid hangers, low hangers, etc and they all work well enough on everything.
I can't think of every single option I have tried, just to see what goes, but I have definitely put Stage 11 standard, hollow axle and ti axle hangers on them, as well as Stage 10 and Stage 9 standard hangers and a few randoms like Stage 10 and 11 low hangers, as well as the mid hangers from another set that the IKP blew out on.
Edit:
Almost forgot to add, but the main issue I had was making sure all manner of bushing options worked on them, as I usually use the Indy low head bushings, they didn't really work well in the IKP option as I couldn't get the kingpin down past full lock to be comfortable, whereas the super soft were the right height but too soft, through to the super hard but the kingpin was barely down in the baseplate. Others in between were ok, but the stock bushings once worn in and feeling comfortable at full lock ended up being the best option for me for the use of the trucks.
I would definitely say that having the kingpin down to full lock in the baseplate is the best for clearance as well as less movement in the kingpin shaft too, with 78 duro bushings being mushy loose, true 88 duro bushings being very loose, 90 duro bushings being fairly loose but not at all mushy, 92 being medium to firm, 94 being firm, 96 being very stiff.
I'm still not sold on the iKP's just from what i've heard about how hard they stick when they do drag.
And even if the clearance is good enough to avoid that for a while when the hangers are new, eventually you're gonna grind down to that hard ass IKP.
Idk, maybe just being a hater. I would take more kingpin clearance in a heartbeat if it didnt come with other issues.
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Does anyone have experience with 109s? I'm considering swapping the ACE 22 classics on my zip zinger for them.
I love the t hanger look, and I'm fairly certain my 22's are bent. Couple wheels keep getting tight and i have to push/pull the wheel to reseat the bearing. havent taken them apart to get a good look though.
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Does anyone have experience with 109s? I'm considering swapping the ACE 22 classics on my zip zinger for them.
I love the t hanger look, and I'm fairly certain my 22's are bent. Couple wheels keep getting tight and i have to push/pull the wheel to reseat the bearing. havent taken them apart to get a good look though.
I have 2 sets and I love them. They feel and grind like the rest of the Indy standard line but you can tune them to be loose or tight pretty easily. Putting them on a deck with a long wheelbase is great (like this Alva 1977 reissue pictured), you get a nice easy carve and great stability at the same time.
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/938266106701942824/1050088080704540802/PXL_20221207_163345793.jpg)
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Does anyone have experience with 109s? I'm considering swapping the ACE 22 classics on my zip zinger for them.
I love the t hanger look, and I'm fairly certain my 22's are bent. Couple wheels keep getting tight and i have to push/pull the wheel to reseat the bearing. havent taken them apart to get a good look though.
I have 2 sets and I love them. They feel and grind like the rest of the Indy standard line but you can tune them to be loose or tight pretty easily. Putting them on a deck with a long wheelbase is great (like this Alva 1977 reissue pictured), you get a nice easy carve and great stability at the same time.
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/938266106701942824/1050088080704540802/PXL_20221207_163345793.jpg)
Thanks for the input. Zip zinger has a 14.25 wb i think. Maybe ill try to find that looooong ass one they make.
edit: actually, probably not. i like how crazy the zinger feels. will feel even crazier with narrower trucks
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=41990083674269
At the 50.5mm height, these are almost like Indy “lows”. Usually low trucks always have issues with kingpin clearance but since these have the ikp shouldn’t be an issue. Food for thought
These are my go to Indy model these days. They feel so good paired with 51mm or under wheels.
I had never known anyone to ride these but recently took a vacation to Miami, rolled up to a skatepark, and the other 3 people skating all had them and were really, really stoked on them.
It's all speculation, but the use of 'Legendary Indy Geometry' is not the same as 'Stage XI'
Having swapped hangers/plates with forged XIs (as noted a few pages back) they don't line up leading me to think they are different - and perhaps older - geometry than Stage XI. They certainly feel different to me...they are much more responsive that stage 11s...faster carve/turn like an ACE but now loosey.
Maybe some franken truck using V-VIII? without knowing all the truck heights from V-VIII it would be hard to point a finger at where they land; 48.5 lows were SXI if I recall.
At 4:38 Whaley mentions that they “turn just like the stage 11s” this is after mentioning how the Stage 11 is their longest running stage. Pretty much just dropped the axle lower in the hanger and added some aluminum for reinforcements in a few areas.
https://youtu.be/Gfk_W3W-xY0
Point being, if they were stage XI geo, they would be labeled as such, why the different nomenclature if they were?
Facts are, the hangers don't sit the same way when you swap them, one sits more forward, the other back....can you skate them either way? Yes, but the geo is different.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=41990083674269
At the 50.5mm height, these are almost like Indy “lows”. Usually low trucks always have issues with kingpin clearance but since these have the ikp shouldn’t be an issue. Food for thought
These are my go to Indy model these days. They feel so good paired with 51mm or under wheels.
I had never known anyone to ride these but recently took a vacation to Miami, rolled up to a skatepark, and the other 3 people skating all had them and were really, really stoked on them.
It's all speculation, but the use of 'Legendary Indy Geometry' is not the same as 'Stage XI'
Having swapped hangers/plates with forged XIs (as noted a few pages back) they don't line up leading me to think they are different - and perhaps older - geometry than Stage XI. They certainly feel different to me...they are much more responsive that stage 11s...faster carve/turn like an ACE but now loosey.
Maybe some franken truck using V-VIII? without knowing all the truck heights from V-VIII it would be hard to point a finger at where they land; 48.5 lows were SXI if I recall.
At 4:38 Whaley mentions that they “turn just like the stage 11s” this is after mentioning how the Stage 11 is their longest running stage. Pretty much just dropped the axle lower in the hanger and added some aluminum for reinforcements in a few areas.
https://youtu.be/Gfk_W3W-xY0
Point being, if they were stage XI geo, they would be labeled as such, why the different nomenclature if they were?
Facts are, the hangers don't sit the same way when you swap them, one sits more forward, the other back....can you skate them either way? Yes, but the geo is different.
I think the wording is intended to give people the feeling that they will turn the same as the Indys they are used to. It’s so weird that the hanger wouldn’t sit the same when you swap it out because supposedly it’s the same baseplate. Wonder if the the angle of the kingpin changes as it’s being rotated into the threads? Or if the sleeve nuts on your sets were pressed in a little off, it’s possible given the sheer volume of production
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Hey everyone - quick question I had a pair of forged hollows but the mounting holes at some point got crazy eggshaped, probably because the hardware got loose, now since I can't get replacement baseplates I got a pair of cast baseplates with the inverted kingpin, I imagine that the rest of the truck is the same across all versions right? so I should effectively have the same as a standard hollow in the end? I know this may sound stupid but I am asking just in case I am missing something.
Yes, I believe those baseplates will make your trucks the standard Indy height 55mm vs 53.5 on the forged
So the difference between cast, forged and ti is the baseplate and the hangers would be interchangeable?
Yes, but titaniums also use the normal forged baseplate. Only the axles are titanium
Yup. 4 baseplates total, 2 forged, 2 cast, ikp and reg kingpin.
Def good for them (less parts to make) that they can use the same baseplates for the mids but im assuming you can ONLY use IKP on the mids? If theyre the same baseplates you probably need that extra IKP clearance for the mids to be viable.
I know others have said they feel like they don't easily fit on every option, but this set of inverted kingpin baseplates I have been playing with and changing around to test on every hanger, both older and newer stages, as well as mid hangers, low hangers, etc and they all work well enough on everything.
I can't think of every single option I have tried, just to see what goes, but I have definitely put Stage 11 standard, hollow axle and ti axle hangers on them, as well as Stage 10 and Stage 9 standard hangers and a few randoms like Stage 10 and 11 low hangers, as well as the mid hangers from another set that the IKP blew out on.
Edit:
Almost forgot to add, but the main issue I had was making sure all manner of bushing options worked on them, as I usually use the Indy low head bushings, they didn't really work well in the IKP option as I couldn't get the kingpin down past full lock to be comfortable, whereas the super soft were the right height but too soft, through to the super hard but the kingpin was barely down in the baseplate. Others in between were ok, but the stock bushings once worn in and feeling comfortable at full lock ended up being the best option for me for the use of the trucks.
I would definitely say that having the kingpin down to full lock in the baseplate is the best for clearance as well as less movement in the kingpin shaft too, with 78 duro bushings being mushy loose, true 88 duro bushings being very loose, 90 duro bushings being fairly loose but not at all mushy, 92 being medium to firm, 94 being firm, 96 being very stiff.
I'm still not sold on the iKP's just from what i've heard about how hard they stick when they do drag.
And even if the clearance is good enough to avoid that for a while when the hangers are new, eventually you're gonna grind down to that hard ass IKP.
Idk, maybe just being a hater. I would take more kingpin clearance in a heartbeat if it didnt come with other issues.
There is a Creature rider Jhancarlos Gonzalez (sp?) that skates local to where I live. He talks about the IKP on the Indy page and he feels it grinds better on coping. I felt that it was good on cement but that some people might not like it as much on rails/metal. A normal nut is very soft so maybe people just need to adapt to pushing through a bit harder?
My issue with it was that it constantly came loose. I got replacement plates and within an hour both kingpins had loosened a half a turn. I'm not about to thread lock my kingpins and all that bullshit.
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Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
Yeah I am back you were right 💁.
Thunders are great, but feel kinda toy-like compared to standard Indy. And boy I miss the turn.
Maybe I should sacrifice something to the Indy gods to have mercy with me hehe.
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Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
Yeah I am back you were right 💁.
Thunders are great, but feel kinda toy-like compared to standard Indy. And boy I miss the turn.
Maybe I should sacrifice something to the Indy gods to have mercy with me hehe.
lol its all good man, at least you admitted your defeat honorably, we will take you back.
you just need to remind yourself of these situations. maybe try tinkering with different indy heights/weights/widths/bushings if you're trying to change the feel of your board a bit. Also remember how wheelbase and wheel diameter play into pop feel and overall feel of your board.
forged indy mids on 52mm wheels and a 14in wb is gonna feel DRASTICALLY different than indy hollows with 56mm wheels and a 14.5 wb. even if they're the same width trucks. but both setups would retain what you LIKE about indy's
Personally, the standards are way to heavy for me. so i was on the forged ti's for a while but always felt like something was a little off. Recently i've been running 149 ti hangers on the standard cast baseplate, and i couldnt be happier with my setup.
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Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
Yeah I am back you were right 💁.
Thunders are great, but feel kinda toy-like compared to standard Indy. And boy I miss the turn.
Maybe I should sacrifice something to the Indy gods to have mercy with me hehe.
lol its all good man, at least you admitted your defeat honorably, we will take you back.
you just need to remind yourself of these situations. maybe try tinkering with different indy heights/weights/widths/bushings if you're trying to change the feel of your board a bit. Also remember how wheelbase and wheel diameter play into pop feel and overall feel of your board.
forged indy mids on 52mm wheels and a 14in wb is gonna feel DRASTICALLY different than indy hollows with 56mm wheels and a 14.5 wb. even if they're the same width trucks. but both setups would retain what you LIKE about indy's
Personally, the standards are way to heavy for me. so i was on the forged ti's for a while but always felt like something was a little off. Recently i've been running 149 ti hangers on the standard cast baseplate, and i couldnt be happier with my setup.
I have really short board and wheelbase and I love it with cast baseplates. I thing cast hollows are the future for me, but couple slappy grinds, and the standarts won't be that heavy😀.
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Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
Yeah I am back you were right 💁.
Thunders are great, but feel kinda toy-like compared to standard Indy. And boy I miss the turn.
Maybe I should sacrifice something to the Indy gods to have mercy with me hehe.
lol its all good man, at least you admitted your defeat honorably, we will take you back.
you just need to remind yourself of these situations. maybe try tinkering with different indy heights/weights/widths/bushings if you're trying to change the feel of your board a bit. Also remember how wheelbase and wheel diameter play into pop feel and overall feel of your board.
forged indy mids on 52mm wheels and a 14in wb is gonna feel DRASTICALLY different than indy hollows with 56mm wheels and a 14.5 wb. even if they're the same width trucks. but both setups would retain what you LIKE about indy's
Personally, the standards are way to heavy for me. so i was on the forged ti's for a while but always felt like something was a little off. Recently i've been running 149 ti hangers on the standard cast baseplate, and i couldnt be happier with my setup.
I have really short board and wheelbase and I love it with cast baseplates. I thing cast hollows are the future for me, but couple slappy grinds, and the standarts won't be that heavy😀.
Whatever works best for YOU!
Highly recommend the Ti hangers on cast plates though, cant speak highly of them enough.
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Felt like experimenting with the IKP baseplate and got a set of the old Krux Downlow hollow kingpins and set it up with my 169 titanium hangers and some bones hard bushings. Kingpin is definitely lower than hollow standard plates I was on before and it being hollow makes a little difference. I have these setup a little looser than I normally ride but the turn feels amazing to me and made my last couple sessions a little more fun. I didn't expect much out of this besides the curiosity factor but I'm hyped I found a truck setup that's working for me and getting me excited to ride my board.
(https://i.ibb.co/NFmgtjQ/IMG-20221205-123009712-HDR.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NFmgtjQ)
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Felt like experimenting with the IKP baseplate and got a set of the old Krux Downlow hollow kingpins and set it up with my 169 titanium hangers and some bones hard bushings. Kingpin is definitely lower than hollow standard plates I was on before and it being hollow makes a little difference. I have these setup a little looser than I normally ride but the turn feels amazing to me and made my last couple sessions a little more fun. I didn't expect much out of this besides the curiosity factor but I'm hyped I found a truck setup that's working for me and getting me excited to ride my board.
(https://i.ibb.co/NFmgtjQ/IMG-20221205-123009712-HDR.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NFmgtjQ)
nice man, i tried the krux dlk on some aces a while back, i felt like it just caught really hard on smiths which defeated the purpose for me. I also couldnt get the shaft nut to sit tight so they kept loosening. RIP to those cool dark green aces. Pretty sure i bent those too, but that seems normal for me on aces. I think my AF1's might even be bent lol.
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Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
Yeah I am back you were right 💁.
Thunders are great, but feel kinda toy-like compared to standard Indy. And boy I miss the turn.
Maybe I should sacrifice something to the Indy gods to have mercy with me hehe.
lol its all good man, at least you admitted your defeat honorably, we will take you back.
you just need to remind yourself of these situations. maybe try tinkering with different indy heights/weights/widths/bushings if you're trying to change the feel of your board a bit. Also remember how wheelbase and wheel diameter play into pop feel and overall feel of your board.
forged indy mids on 52mm wheels and a 14in wb is gonna feel DRASTICALLY different than indy hollows with 56mm wheels and a 14.5 wb. even if they're the same width trucks. but both setups would retain what you LIKE about indy's
Personally, the standards are way to heavy for me. so i was on the forged ti's for a while but always felt like something was a little off. Recently i've been running 149 ti hangers on the standard cast baseplate, and i couldnt be happier with my setup.
I have really short board and wheelbase and I love it with cast baseplates. I thing cast hollows are the future for me, but couple slappy grinds, and the standarts won't be that heavy😀.
Whatever works best for YOU!
Highly recommend the Ti hangers on cast plates though, cant speak highly of them enough.
Have you skated standard hollows? I cant imagine the TI hanger on cast plates is drastically different.
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Well after all those sleepless nights of not being able to accept that I ride Indy again (a bit of exaggerating) and thinking about how I like DLX and how stable Ventures but do not turn how I like (riding the cool wave), I ordered some 8.5 Foy Thunders and am going back to the middle ground.
Indy always in my heart tho, I’m gonna lurk here anyway. Godspeed.
P.S. Wish me luck, hopefully these is the real end (for like a 14th time) of my madness.
You'll be back, they all come back.
Thunder turn, grind, bushings, and wheelbite will bring you back.
Unless you are like REALLY good and technical. Then you might be happier over there.
Yeah I am back you were right 💁.
Thunders are great, but feel kinda toy-like compared to standard Indy. And boy I miss the turn.
Maybe I should sacrifice something to the Indy gods to have mercy with me hehe.
lol its all good man, at least you admitted your defeat honorably, we will take you back.
you just need to remind yourself of these situations. maybe try tinkering with different indy heights/weights/widths/bushings if you're trying to change the feel of your board a bit. Also remember how wheelbase and wheel diameter play into pop feel and overall feel of your board.
forged indy mids on 52mm wheels and a 14in wb is gonna feel DRASTICALLY different than indy hollows with 56mm wheels and a 14.5 wb. even if they're the same width trucks. but both setups would retain what you LIKE about indy's
Personally, the standards are way to heavy for me. so i was on the forged ti's for a while but always felt like something was a little off. Recently i've been running 149 ti hangers on the standard cast baseplate, and i couldnt be happier with my setup.
I have really short board and wheelbase and I love it with cast baseplates. I thing cast hollows are the future for me, but couple slappy grinds, and the standarts won't be that heavy😀.
Whatever works best for YOU!
Highly recommend the Ti hangers on cast plates though, cant speak highly of them enough.
Have you skated standard hollows? I cant imagine the TI hanger on cast plates is drastically different.
not in a VERY long time, like since they first came out. I'm sure the ti/standard plate combo is similar in weight, at most a little lighter. But you also get the added benefit of having solid axel/kp. many users report not liking the sound/feel of hollow components, especially when grinding.
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I've ran both, as well as with Thunders; with Indy the weight reduction with that pig of a baseplate is negligible regardless of hanger, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference when skating; there's a reason they pair ti axles with forged hollow bases, to net the most weight reduction and frankly those running standards give no fucks about weight. Ti hangers with Thunder team plates it's fantastic (what I'm running now).
I know some prefer the feel of solid pins, but personally I've never noticed a difference in cast plates, but def feel the hollow vs solid axle, especially on grinds, even with Ti; If I had to ride indy cast plates it would be the hollow pins/ti axles.
I'm just a poosy and can't run 55mm standards (and I don't roll anything over 54mm so forged indys are fine, I stick with the max wheel size determined by truck height usually, so the forged at 53.5 are good enough for me up to 54mm..which go to 53mm super fast anyway).
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That is the best thing with all the options, as they really do cater to many different tastes.
I prefer bigger wheels and more clearance so the standards are definitely my go to over anything else, but others I know are all about the weight - ti axle, forged baseplates on bigger boards especially, with others doing the mix and match thing, which works when they have access or swap back certain parts with me anyway.
Mids have their place, but again they are something I am happy not to really touch apart from trying used sets from others.
Given the low versions are no longer being made, they are not part of the mix which does make it easier, but the Stage 11 low trucks I have are the same baseplates, just shorter kingpin and shorter bushing, much like the aftermarket low tops I usually use, so things were still interchangeable in that regard too.
I am still curious to see a set of the new releases in person for those bigger 215 cut down trucks, but don't have any desire to go out and find them or order from USA when I have so many normal Stage 11 trucks that work perfectly for everything else.
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I've ran both, as well as with Thunders; with Indy the weight reduction with that pig of a baseplate is negligible regardless of hanger, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference when skating; there's a reason they pair ti axles with forged hollow bases, to net the most weight reduction and frankly those running standards give no fucks about weight. Ti hangers with Thunder team plates it's fantastic (what I'm running now).
I know some prefer the feel of solid pins, but personally I've never noticed a difference in cast plates, but def feel the hollow vs solid axle, especially on grinds, even with Ti; If I had to ride indy cast plates it would be the hollow pins/ti axles.
I'm just a poosy and can't run 55mm standards (and I don't roll anything over 54mm so forged indys are fine, I stick with the max wheel size determined by truck height usually, so the forged at 53.5 are good enough for me up to 54mm..which go to 53mm super fast anyway).
I was able to get away with 56mm classics in forged plates. Had to tighten up a little bit it was doable. Def had some solid wheelbite marks, but the pinch was good haha.
I hardly have any wheelbite on standard plates, even on brand new 56mm classics.
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Hi all,
Thunder user dabbling with Indy-
Baseplate from a 144 forged hollow should work fine with the hanger from a 149 standard?
Have just put this combo together and getting annoying click from the pivot cup driving me crazy.
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Hi all,
Thunder user dabbling with Indy-
Baseplate from a 144 forged hollow should work fine with the hanger from a 149 standard?
Have just put this combo together and getting annoying click from the pivot cup driving me crazy.
Yes no issues there. It could be your washers clicking.
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Hi all,
Thunder user dabbling with Indy-
Baseplate from a 144 forged hollow should work fine with the hanger from a 149 standard?
Have just put this combo together and getting annoying click from the pivot cup driving me crazy.
Like @Paperclip20 said, it might be your washers. if there is a lot of play on them around the kingpin, once the pressure is applied from tightening the bushings down they can kind of snap back and forth when you turn, causing a clicking sound. Could also be your bushings spilling over the washers when you turn and snapping back under when you come to center (more likely if using new bushings). could also be a loose or warped pivot cup too.
I'd suggest cleaning all points where two parts meet, bushings, bushing seat/pivot nub on your hangers, washers, pivot cups, baseplate where it touches the washer, with rubbing alcohol. Then use a qtip and some motor oil to give all of those surfaces you just cleaned the LIGHTEST possible coat of lube. it should hardly look like theres anything on them, do not go overboard. The lube should hardly be visible.
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Ok I assumed pivot cups were noise culprit as they seem a lot less snug in there than my thunders. I’ll lube everything up as suggested cheers
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Ok I assumed pivot cups were noise culprit as they seem a lot less snug in there than my thunders. I’ll lube everything up as suggested cheers
They very well could be, but there are other possibilities
make sure you clean first! very important.
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Anyone see anything more about those new hanger designs that were floating around? Looked like 215 hanger but normal width. Or am I tripping and that's just people modifying them?
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Anyone see anything more about those new hanger designs that were floating around? Looked like 215 hanger but normal width. Or am I tripping and that's just people modifying them?
supposedly they will mimic stage 4 geo and have different sizing starting just above 8.5" wide. that's about all we know right now
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thanks for the info!
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thanks for the info!
no prob, come back if you find anymore. I'll try to update the first post with anything useful
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no prob, come back if you find anymore. I'll try to update the first post with anything useful
From the truck thread, which hasn't been posted in for a couple of weeks, there are quite a few pics and links to the Indy Stage 4 reissues, as they call them.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3857968#msg3857968
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From what I understand of the casting process, you can't just make a truck shorter, but you have to make a whole new hanger mold.
As to the shape of these hangers, anyone with a set of 215s can turn them on a certain angle and see more or less the exact same front shape with the supported wings running back on an angle. They might look a little different because the 215 are such a wide truck and these others are not that wide, so the extra wings make them look really solid and different.
The listings and almost all pics online really don't show the truck from the angle that you see when looking at people's boards, but you can check these anyway.
Maybe the best overall pics:
https://www.nativeskatestore.co.uk/skateboards-c7/skateboard-trucks-c18/independent-stage-11-215-skateboard-trucks-10-p20370
Second pic from NHS
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
This might be closest of any other normal pics anyway:
(https://www.muirskate.com/photos/products/1319/hd_product_Independent-215mm-%28Set-HD%29.png)
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3857538#msg3857538
@southphillytapwater got the goods here:
(https://i.imgur.com/eQcAGUY.jpg)
I asked Elijah what size these new Indy's were and he said they're 151's, which are slightly bigger than 149's. I also asked him when they come out and he said he isn't sure.
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What was his excuse for his sad choice of record players?
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I’m seriously disappointed that they won’t be doing a ~144 size. This size has been the best new product from Indy in decades and it’s basically all I skate, and I would absolutely snap up a pair of these in 144.
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Hello all, I am pleased to see this thread pop up on my computer screen
I grew up an Indy ogre; my first indies were a set of stage 10 geoff rowley maroon/black dogshit trucks that were heavy as fuck. good times i had that on a mike carrol board 8.18 back when girl skateboards sucked cock (2012ish)
I recently started skating more again and want to concisely tell you what i learned about other trucks before coming to my current choice of truck right now, all are suited more or less for 8.38-8.5 decks:
Ace 44 (classic), before AF1:
- very easy transition from indy 139, decent pop on high kick decks, great turn, great lock in but meh pinch, great grind
- not much different from indy except they turn a bit more and feel more dogshit on mellow decks
Thunder 149:
- terrible without risers and any wheel above 52mm; too much wheelbite
- after 1/8 riser and 55mm wheel treatment became a beast; bad for grinds (metal sucks), light as fuck, good pinch
- turn is great after risers, restricted without them but doable
Venture 5.8:
- great for decks... make any board feel lie plank of wood
- turning feels primitive and you have to finesse it instead of feel it turn
- self sabotaging truck... kind of weird feeling but primitive and tribal
- good for linear interactions, good pinch, ass turn, style changing truck
indy hollow 149 (not forged plate, only hollow kingpin/axle):
- elite truck, works good on 57mm wheels without risers
- bushings are dogshit for all these trucks except for ace
- makes mellow or steep decks feel good and tolerable
- light enough.
- grind great, baseplate
hence this is why i must return to tribal mouth-gaping independent-truck worshipping ogredom, because its such a good truck that will last years.
tthe issue with ace was they destroyed themselves, they were ass quality. the tunders lasted not long due to no meat on the hanger, the ventures turned to dogshit. independents age well.
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Hello all, I am pleased to see this thread pop up on my computer screen
I grew up an Indy ogre; my first indies were a set of stage 10 geoff rowley maroon/black dogshit trucks that were heavy as fuck. good times i had that on a mike carrol board 8.18 back when girl skateboards sucked cock (2012ish)
I recently started skating more again and want to concisely tell you what i learned about other trucks before coming to my current choice of truck right now, all are suited more or less for 8.38-8.5 decks:
Ace 44 (classic), before AF1:
- very easy transition from indy 139, decent pop on high kick decks, great turn, great lock in but meh pinch, great grind
- not much different from indy except they turn a bit more and feel more dogshit on mellow decks
Thunder 149:
- terrible without risers and any wheel above 52mm; too much wheelbite
- after 1/8 riser and 55mm wheel treatment became a beast; bad for grinds (metal sucks), light as fuck, good pinch
- turn is great after risers, restricted without them but doable
Venture 5.8:
- great for decks... make any board feel lie plank of wood
- turning feels primitive and you have to finesse it instead of feel it turn
- self sabotaging truck... kind of weird feeling but primitive and tribal
- good for linear interactions, good pinch, ass turn, style changing truck
indy hollow 149 (not forged plate, only hollow kingpin/axle):
- elite truck, works good on 57mm wheels without risers
- bushings are dogshit for all these trucks except for ace
- makes mellow or steep decks feel good and tolerable
- light enough.
- grind great, baseplate
hence this is why i must return to tribal mouth-gaping independent-truck worshipping ogredom, because its such a good truck that will last years.
tthe issue with ace was they destroyed themselves, they were ass quality. the tunders lasted not long due to no meat on the hanger, the ventures turned to dogshit. independents age well.
These experiences are basically the same as mine.
Welcome back to ogre pack
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BREAKING NEWS!
I have a lifetime (literally never ridden another truck) thunder rider interested in indys after skating a curb spot with him the other day. He was envious of how much farther i was grinding.
IDK what to suggest to him though. I think the mids will be too heavy for him and the forged mids will be too low (but maybe run them with a riser?)
Im thinking to suggest 144 titaniums and get him to size his wheels down a mm or 2.
If im being entirely honest though, im kind of thinking about telling him to just stick to his thunders since he is so dialed on them. Dude is a ripper, very good, very tech, like a diet mark suicu. I feel like the swap to indys will either be the worst or the best thing to ever happen to him haha. And i dont wanna be responsible for it if he hates them and wastes all that $ on titanium indys lol
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BREAKING NEWS!
I have a lifetime (literally never ridden another truck) thunder rider interested in indys after skating a curb spot with him the other day. He was envious of how much farther i was grinding.
IDK what to suggest to him though. I think the mids will be too heavy for him and the forged mids will be too low (but maybe run them with a riser?)
Im thinking to suggest 144 titaniums and get him to size his wheels down a mm or 2.
If im being entirely honest though, im kind of thinking about telling him to just stick to his thunders since he is so dialed on them. Dude is a ripper, very good, very tech, like a diet mark suicu. I feel like the swap to indys will either be the worst or the best thing to ever happen to him haha. And i dont wanna be responsible for it if he hates them and wastes all that $ on titanium indys lol
TI or Forged hollows for sure...putting a thunder rider on standards...you might as well put them on a 10x30 re-issue with no nose.
Unpopular take: Have him try out the [new] royals ultralights...very easy transition from thunders with pretty much the benefit of an indy-ish turn with thunder stabily (and height depending on what he skates).
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BREAKING NEWS!
I have a lifetime (literally never ridden another truck) thunder rider interested in indys after skating a curb spot with him the other day. He was envious of how much farther i was grinding.
IDK what to suggest to him though. I think the mids will be too heavy for him and the forged mids will be too low (but maybe run them with a riser?)
Im thinking to suggest 144 titaniums and get him to size his wheels down a mm or 2.
If im being entirely honest though, im kind of thinking about telling him to just stick to his thunders since he is so dialed on them. Dude is a ripper, very good, very tech, like a diet mark suicu. I feel like the swap to indys will either be the worst or the best thing to ever happen to him haha. And i dont wanna be responsible for it if he hates them and wastes all that $ on titanium indys lol
TI or Forged hollows for sure...putting a thunder rider on standards...you might as well put them on a 10x30 re-issue with no nose.
Unpopular take: Have him try out the [new] royals ultralights...very easy transition from thunders with pretty much the benefit of an indy-ish turn with thunder stabily (and height depending on what he skates).
Yea, weight/height were my biggest concerns, he skates the standard baseplate thunders, team hollows when he can get them.
Havent ridden them, but from what ive heard the new royals are def closer to thunders. However, his main reason for wanting to try indys was the grind. I was hoping we would discover the turn afterwards and really fall in love lol.
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BREAKING NEWS!
I have a lifetime (literally never ridden another truck) thunder rider interested in indys after skating a curb spot with him the other day. He was envious of how much farther i was grinding.
IDK what to suggest to him though. I think the mids will be too heavy for him and the forged mids will be too low (but maybe run them with a riser?)
Im thinking to suggest 144 titaniums and get him to size his wheels down a mm or 2.
If im being entirely honest though, im kind of thinking about telling him to just stick to his thunders since he is so dialed on them. Dude is a ripper, very good, very tech, like a diet mark suicu. I feel like the swap to indys will either be the worst or the best thing to ever happen to him haha. And i dont wanna be responsible for it if he hates them and wastes all that $ on titanium indys lol
TI or Forged hollows for sure...putting a thunder rider on standards...you might as well put them on a 10x30 re-issue with no nose.
Unpopular take: Have him try out the [new] royals ultralights...very easy transition from thunders with pretty much the benefit of an indy-ish turn with thunder stabily (and height depending on what he skates).
Forged Hollows. TI is only like %5 lighter than those, and the height is close to the same Thunder Teams. What he will be the most amazed at, is how effortless nose/tail slides will become, because he won't have to worry about wheels catching (b/c of Thunder's short baseplates).
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BREAKING NEWS!
I have a lifetime (literally never ridden another truck) thunder rider interested in indys after skating a curb spot with him the other day. He was envious of how much farther i was grinding.
IDK what to suggest to him though. I think the mids will be too heavy for him and the forged mids will be too low (but maybe run them with a riser?)
Im thinking to suggest 144 titaniums and get him to size his wheels down a mm or 2.
If im being entirely honest though, im kind of thinking about telling him to just stick to his thunders since he is so dialed on them. Dude is a ripper, very good, very tech, like a diet mark suicu. I feel like the swap to indys will either be the worst or the best thing to ever happen to him haha. And i dont wanna be responsible for it if he hates them and wastes all that $ on titanium indys lol
Tell him, "One more push is better than adjusting to new trucks."
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BREAKING NEWS!
I have a lifetime (literally never ridden another truck) thunder rider interested in indys after skating a curb spot with him the other day. He was envious of how much farther i was grinding.
IDK what to suggest to him though. I think the mids will be too heavy for him and the forged mids will be too low (but maybe run them with a riser?)
Im thinking to suggest 144 titaniums and get him to size his wheels down a mm or 2.
If im being entirely honest though, im kind of thinking about telling him to just stick to his thunders since he is so dialed on them. Dude is a ripper, very good, very tech, like a diet mark suicu. I feel like the swap to indys will either be the worst or the best thing to ever happen to him haha. And i dont wanna be responsible for it if he hates them and wastes all that $ on titanium indys lol
This is very strange considering his skill level. I skate ledges and curbs with people on other truck brands and have no issues grinding the same distance and even further for a few tricks. I've not found the grind on Thunders to be lacking and most curbs are so sauced and waxed it seems like it should be less of an issue and he would have the skill to be able to adjust whatever it is he's doing wrong.
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If he’s good, I suspect it won’t matter…..Indy raws….I think Ben Degros rips these pretty regularly and he’s just as nuts as most of us…..
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I’m saying forged hollows. Close to the same height and idk the weight but I assume it’s gotta be kinda close.
Also I really enjoyed skating royals. Probably more than thunders and I feel nose slides slid better in royals than Indy’s. But something about Indy’s just feel right. But if I ever axle these Indy’s I plan on spending more time on the royals.
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BREAKING NEWS!
I have a lifetime (literally never ridden another truck) thunder rider interested in indys after skating a curb spot with him the other day. He was envious of how much farther i was grinding.
IDK what to suggest to him though. I think the mids will be too heavy for him and the forged mids will be too low (but maybe run them with a riser?)
Im thinking to suggest 144 titaniums and get him to size his wheels down a mm or 2.
If im being entirely honest though, im kind of thinking about telling him to just stick to his thunders since he is so dialed on them. Dude is a ripper, very good, very tech, like a diet mark suicu. I feel like the swap to indys will either be the worst or the best thing to ever happen to him haha. And i dont wanna be responsible for it if he hates them and wastes all that $ on titanium indys lol
TI or Forged hollows for sure...putting a thunder rider on standards...you might as well put them on a 10x30 re-issue with no nose.
Unpopular take: Have him try out the [new] royals ultralights...very easy transition from thunders with pretty much the benefit of an indy-ish turn with thunder stabily (and height depending on what he skates).
But he wants to grind far and in my experience and the experience of many others here, the grind absolutely does not compare to Indy.
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Forged Indy 144 (not mids) have a very similar wheelbase and pop feel as cast Thunder 148. I found this out when my deck was starting to feel mushy and I swapped the trucks out and the pop felt the exact same.
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If he’s good, I suspect it won’t matter…..Indy raws….I think Ben Degros rips these pretty regularly and he’s just as nuts as most of us…..
He's a rather thin dude pretty average height, was skating an 8in deck/trucks for the longest time, he def prefers a lighter setup when possible.
I pushed him to try 8.25 and he was SUPER hesitant at first, but he loves it now and thanks me regularly for getting him on a more "comfy" setup.
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If he’s good, I suspect it won’t matter…..Indy raws….I think Ben Degros rips these pretty regularly and he’s just as nuts as most of us…..
He's a rather thin dude pretty average height, was skating an 8in deck/trucks for the longest time, he def prefers a lighter setup when possible.
I pushed him to try 8.25 and he was SUPER hesitant at first, but he loves it now and thanks me regularly for getting him on a more "comfy" setup.
If youre in the US, Sunland has a good deal right now on Knox forged hollows if he can stomach the graphics and blue baseplate, $30. Last I checked they had 144 and 149 available.
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I feel like pushing people to change their setup isn't a cool move at all. Unless it's a really stupid setup that hurts their skating. If they want to change and look for advice, sure let the madness-knowledge flow, but never push it.
I wish I never knew...
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I feel like pushing people to change their setup isn't a cool move at all. Unless it's a really stupid setup that hurts their skating. If they want to change and look for advice, sure let the madness-knowledge flow, but never push it.
I wish I never knew...
I just recently tried thunders based on his suggestion.
And me pushing him to 8.25 was based on him talking about wanting a larger setup but being scared to move up after being on 8 for so long.
I didn't bully him him into buying an 8.25 and focus his 8 lol.
Friends discuss and suggest things all the time.
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The way you described his skill level he should be able to figure out pretty quickly if he likes something moving up or not. It's not on you and I don't get why people think you're gaslighting him or something. Everything has its pros and cons.
I disagree that Forged Indys and Thunders have a similar pop feel. I've run both for long periods on the same decks and that is 100% not the case. Do a single scooped backside 180 and you'll know what I mean. The forged hollow pop feel is lighter feeling for me and since the trucks turn differently they will scoop slightly different as well. I actually think the Thunder pop feel is closer to a Venture cast with hollow/ti axles than an Indy
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The way you described his skill level he should be able to figure out pretty quickly if he likes something moving up or not. It's not on you and I don't get why people think you're gaslighting him or something. Everything has its pros and cons.
I disagree that Forged Indys and Thunders have a similar pop feel. I've run both for long periods on the same decks and that is 100% not the case. Do a single scooped backside 180 and you'll know what I mean. The forged hollow pop feel is lighter feeling for me and since the trucks turn differently they will scoop slightly different as well. I actually think the Thunder pop feel is closer to a Venture cast with hollow/ti axles than an Indy
I agree with all this. Its funny you mention 180s specifically because I had the HARDEST time adjusting to those on thunders after skating indys. much lighter popfeel on indy's for sure
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Ya dude with backside 180s especially I have to rotate my shoulders much harder. It's not a bad thing, but at first I was doing some really dope 90s. I notice it a lot on nollie backside 180s. If I wind up as hard as I do on Thunders I will over rotate them for sure. A straight on nollie- not a huge difference. Kickflips I actually prefer on Indys always as the rear bolts definitely suck up to my foot better, but otherwise I find forged Ti and forged hollow too light feeling on the decks I ride.
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If you're wanting to size down from 149s would you stop at 144? or go completely down to 139s?
I found my perfect shape. A Quasi 8.125 and I'm deciding which truck is the best for the next 50 bones.
I'm skeptical the 44s may stick out and not make a difference on the weight;
but then again I think 139s might be too small to have that chilled turn and comfy lock on those grinds.
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If you're wanting to size down from 149s would you stop at 144? or go completely down to 139s?
I found my perfect shape. A Quasi 8.125 and I'm deciding which truck is the best for the next 50 bones.
I'm skeptical the 44s may stick out and not make a difference on the weight;
but then again I think 139s might to small to have that chilled turn and comfy lock on those grinds.
144's for sure's
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If you're wanting to size down from 149s would you stop at 144? or go completely down to 139s?
I found my perfect shape. A Quasi 8.125 and I'm deciding which truck is the best for the next 50 bones.
I'm skeptical the 44s may stick out and not make a difference on the weight;
but then again I think 139s might to small to have that chilled turn and comfy lock on those grinds.
I skate 44/144s with ~8-8.25" decks and they work perfectly. I looked at the 33/139 a few times but they were narrower than I want, the 144 give me enough width to fully lock in on top of most curbs.
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If you're wanting to size down from 149s would you stop at 144? or go completely down to 139s?
I found my perfect shape. A Quasi 8.125 and I'm deciding which truck is the best for the next 50 bones.
I'm skeptical the 44s may stick out and not make a difference on the weight;
but then again I think 139s might to small to have that chilled turn and comfy lock on those grinds.
I skate 44/144s with ~8-8.25" decks and they work perfectly. I looked at the 33/139 a few times but they were narrower than I want, the 144 give me enough width to fully lock in on top of most curbs.
Yea 139s are so small. I would only suggest them for under 8" now that we have 144's
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I skate 8.25 trucks on 8.125 boards all the time, it works…..you don’t see any nut and I think it sets up well, they just fit. That said, magic carpet does help a lot of flip tricks i think. I like a bit more truck to grind though. If someone were to give you a board and they only had an 8 or an 8.25, which would you take? I’d follow suit with the trucks…
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If you're wanting to size down from 149s would you stop at 144? or go completely down to 139s?
I found my perfect shape. A Quasi 8.125 and I'm deciding which truck is the best for the next 50 bones.
I'm skeptical the 44s may stick out and not make a difference on the weight;
but then again I think 139s might to small to have that chilled turn and comfy lock on those grinds.
I have been skating Titianium 139s on a Polar 8.125 (wb 14.25) for the better part of the past seven years, no problems and can just about see the end of the axles from above.
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If you're wanting to size down from 149s would you stop at 144? or go completely down to 139s?
I found my perfect shape. A Quasi 8.125 and I'm deciding which truck is the best for the next 50 bones.
I'm skeptical the 44s may stick out and not make a difference on the weight;
but then again I think 139s might to small to have that chilled turn and comfy lock on those grinds.
How wide are your wheels?
Narrower wheels = 144s.
Conical Fulls? Do you prefer to flip (139s) or grind (144s)?
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If you're wanting to size down from 149s would you stop at 144? or go completely down to 139s?
I found my perfect shape. A Quasi 8.125 and I'm deciding which truck is the best for the next 50 bones.
I'm skeptical the 44s may stick out and not make a difference on the weight;
but then again I think 139s might to small to have that chilled turn and comfy lock on those grinds.
How wide are your wheels?
Narrower wheels = 144s.
Conical Fulls? Do you prefer to flip (139s) or grind (144s)?
good point.
personally, i would adjust my wheels to fit the setup before sizing down trucks since the narrower hanger would affect grind/turn
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144s are super flexilbe 8.125-8.38, easy. Can work for 8.5 if you are ok with some majik carpet.
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Has this (https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-144mm-Louie-Lopez-IKP-Pro-Skateboard-Trucks-Trans-Black-Silver.html) been discussed here before? I didn't see any publicity for this, but it looks like Indy is doing standard height IKP trucks now, starting with a Louie Lopez signature truck. Listed as 55mm height compared to 52mm with the "Mid" branding, which these lack entirely.
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Has this (https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-144mm-Louie-Lopez-IKP-Pro-Skateboard-Trucks-Trans-Black-Silver.html) been discussed here before? I didn't see any publicity for this, but it looks like Indy is doing standard height IKP trucks now, starting with a Louie Lopez signature truck. Listed as 55mm height compared to 52mm with the "Mid" branding, which these lack entirely.
Well I know they have been selling the ikp on standard plates but I think this is the first standard height ikp truck they have made.
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Has this (https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-144mm-Louie-Lopez-IKP-Pro-Skateboard-Trucks-Trans-Black-Silver.html) been discussed here before? I didn't see any publicity for this, but it looks like Indy is doing standard height IKP trucks now, starting with a Louie Lopez signature truck. Listed as 55mm height compared to 52mm with the "Mid" branding, which these lack entirely.
Yeah, that's what I mean - a turnkey, standard height Independent Stage XI was released and they didn't market it at all. Compare that to the Mids from a year or two ago, they pushed them super hard.
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I got axle slip on my 149 hollows after 6 months so I got forged hollows but today two wheels got stuck already, after only a dew sessions. I thought Indys didn‘t get axle slip? I admit that I primo a lot but still…
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I got axle slip on my 149 hollows after 6 months so I got forged hollows but today two wheels got stuck already, after only a dew sessions. I thought Indys didn‘t get axle slip? I admit that I primo a lot but still…
Are you using spacers in your wheels? My wheels got stuck all the time on Indys with Spitfire Classics. Then I got rid of the spacers and didn't had that problem anymore. But I put the inner ring of an old bearing in my wheels, as a narrower "spacer". I hope that made sense.
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I got axle slip on my 149 hollows after 6 months so I got forged hollows but today two wheels got stuck already, after only a dew sessions. I thought Indys didn‘t get axle slip? I admit that I primo a lot but still…
Are you using spacers in your wheels? My wheels got stuck all the time on Indys with Spitfire Classics. Then I got rid of the spacers and didn't had that problem anymore. But I put the inner ring of an old bearing in my wheels, as a narrower "spacer". I hope that made sense.
You might be on to something. Yes I use spacers in Spitfire classics.
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I got axle slip on my 149 hollows after 6 months so I got forged hollows but today two wheels got stuck already, after only a dew sessions. I thought Indys didn‘t get axle slip? I admit that I primo a lot but still…
Are you using spacers in your wheels? My wheels got stuck all the time on Indys with Spitfire Classics. Then I got rid of the spacers and didn't had that problem anymore. But I put the inner ring of an old bearing in my wheels, as a narrower "spacer". I hope that made sense.
You might be on to something. Yes I use spacers in Spitfire classics.
It was a beautiful summer night at 2 am, the madness was at it's peak and I measured my bearings and spacers. It seemed like the spacers were 2 mm too long to fit properly in my Classics (54mm). I think that's what caused the bearings to get stuck after sketchy landings.
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I got axle slip on my 149 hollows after 6 months so I got forged hollows but today two wheels got stuck already, after only a dew sessions. I thought Indys didn‘t get axle slip? I admit that I primo a lot but still…
Are you using spacers in your wheels? My wheels got stuck all the time on Indys with Spitfire Classics. Then I got rid of the spacers and didn't had that problem anymore. But I put the inner ring of an old bearing in my wheels, as a narrower "spacer". I hope that made sense.
You might be on to something. Yes I use spacers in Spitfire classics.
It was a beautiful summer night at 2 am, the madness was at it's peak and I measured my bearings and spacers. It seemed like the spacers were 2 mm too long to fit properly in my Classics (54mm). I think that's what caused the bearings to get stuck after sketchy landings.
Ha yeah the joy of the 2 am madness!
But really though, the bearings can slip with or without spacers in any wheels on any truck, which sucks if they do move, usually when a specific trick or something forces the wheel to move in a certain way.
I had a set of wheels I would have to keep pushing the bearings back in on the back toe wheel after every run on my mini ramp that I did a back smith on - didn't have to take the wheels off or anything, but it got annoying. Just put the board on the side, wheel up, push down on the wheel and "pop" the bearing goes back in, so the wheel is freely spinning again. Put your feet on the ground side wheel and pull the upper side wheel up to check if the other bearing is seated correctly too, turn around and check the others as needed.
Spacers can definitely cause bearings to not seat correctly as well, but sometimes if they are a softer metal, tighten them both down on either side, then crank one and then the other and it will crush the spacer to fit within the wheel. Not really recommended with everything else going on (possibly pulling axle or crushing bearings) but it does work as I have done it a few times just to see what would happen, with no issues to bearings or axle either. I checked where the axle nut would get to without the spacers in the wheels first, and only tightened them down to that point, which was about two threads more than with the spacers in the wheels at the time.
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Never use spacers. They do not work for their intended purposes; even when you use Bones wheels, bearings and spacers, they still do not allow the bearing to seat fully inside of the bearing recess.
I'm also not sure why someone decided that there is an optimal space between the bearings which must be maintained at all cost. It doesn't really make any sense and doesn't seem needed on a trick skateboard.
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I ride race reds on bones and everything lines up perfectly and I ride everything tight….in theory it makes a difference, but in reality I think I grossly under estimate the power of primo….I haven’t had axel slip but I think it’s just luck.
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Never use spacers. They do not work for their intended purposes; even when you use Bones wheels, bearings and spacers, they still do not allow the bearing to seat fully inside of the bearing recess.
I'm also not sure why someone decided that there is an optimal space between the bearings which must be maintained at all cost. It doesn't really make any sense and doesn't seem needed on a trick skateboard.
I gave up on spacers ages ago as they never worked as [you noted] intended. Either there is still space allowing the spacer to wiggle around or the bearings do indeed touch the spacer, but then shift inside the wheel as a whole (being able to push the assembly to one side or the other). It amazes me bones ships bearings/spacers that don't work properly with their wheels.
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Never use spacers. They do not work for their intended purposes; even when you use Bones wheels, bearings and spacers, they still do not allow the bearing to seat fully inside of the bearing recess.
I'm also not sure why someone decided that there is an optimal space between the bearings which must be maintained at all cost. It doesn't really make any sense and doesn't seem needed on a trick skateboard.
And George Powell is considered to be skateboarding's great engineer.
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Never use spacers. They do not work for their intended purposes; even when you use Bones wheels, bearings and spacers, they still do not allow the bearing to seat fully inside of the bearing recess.
I'm also not sure why someone decided that there is an optimal space between the bearings which must be maintained at all cost. It doesn't really make any sense and doesn't seem needed on a trick skateboard.
And George Powell is considered to be skateboarding's great engineer.
It has to do with the cooling process: the amount of shrink as the urethane cools is extremely difficult to control and calculate for.
As for spacers though, I think they’re great! You get to install them in your wheels, skate around a bit and then take them out immediately. What a fantastic waist of time!
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Never use spacers. They do not work for their intended purposes; even when you use Bones wheels, bearings and spacers, they still do not allow the bearing to seat fully inside of the bearing recess.
I'm also not sure why someone decided that there is an optimal space between the bearings which must be maintained at all cost. It doesn't really make any sense and doesn't seem needed on a trick skateboard.
And George Powell is considered to be skateboarding's great engineer.
lol
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Never use spacers. They do not work for their intended purposes; even when you use Bones wheels, bearings and spacers, they still do not allow the bearing to seat fully inside of the bearing recess.
I'm also not sure why someone decided that there is an optimal space between the bearings which must be maintained at all cost. It doesn't really make any sense and doesn't seem needed on a trick skateboard.
And George Powell is considered to be skateboarding's great engineer.
lol
lol x 2
i really thought they did something too, but it was just another one of society's lies!
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Bumping because the father of mainstream madness, our youtube father, lord, and savior, Ben Degros is riding indys again in his latest video. And being real about sneaker culture in skateboarding. Love this dude.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXn7NHVIg9E
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Degros is like Slaps patron saint of gear madness and I’m about it.
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Degros is like Slaps patron saint of gear madness and I’m about it.
Him and GH are the only SLAP approved 'tubers
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He's been back and forth between Thunder and Indy for years. Half the time he actually admits that he wants to ride Indy's because that's what people ride a lot in his area, but that he skates better on Thunders, then rides Thunders again and says he misses the heft of Indy's, then says they're clunky and heavy and he skates better on Thunders....
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He's been back and forth between Thunder and Indy for years. Half the time he actually admits that he wants to ride Indy's because that's what people ride a lot in his area, but that he skates better on Thunders, then rides Thunders again and says he misses the heft of Indy's, then says they're clunky and heavy and he skates better on Thunders....
Yea, there's more to it than just how good you skate, feeling is important.
Lot's of people ride Ace's and admit that they're less consistent on them but they prefer the feel.
I've come to feel a similar way about indys. My pop isnt quite as good on them, neither are my mannys, but all around, they just feel right.
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He's been back and forth between Thunder and Indy for years. Half the time he actually admits that he wants to ride Indy's because that's what people ride a lot in his area, but that he skates better on Thunders, then rides Thunders again and says he misses the heft of Indy's, then says they're clunky and heavy and he skates better on Thunders....
This is me. I probably skate better on Indys or Ventures, but man are Ace just fun to skate.
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Ya I really like swerving on Indys, but I actually like the feel of how I skate fast on Thunders right now so I'm just going with that. I'm sure I'll swap just like Ben in the future. My flip tricks are more solid on Ventures, but that turn is just enjoyable without swapping shit around.
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Ya I really like swerving on Indys, but I actually like the feel of how I skate fast on Thunders right now so I'm just going with that. I'm sure I'll swap just like Ben in the future. My flip tricks are more solid on Ventures, but that turn is just enjoyable without swapping shit around.
Yeah I put some Venture 5.0s on my 8" Primitive deck and immediately kickflipped like ~10" high. I couldn't believe how much better my flip tricks were, but the truth is that I don't care about those tricks and I always get hurt doing them so swerving around doing slappies on Ace trucks it is!
I keep thinking that I'll dust off the Ventures in the spring and spend the warm months of my 42nd year trying to actually like kickflip over the hip at the skatepark or something. We will see.
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He's been back and forth between Thunder and Indy for years. Half the time he actually admits that he wants to ride Indy's because that's what people ride a lot in his area, but that he skates better on Thunders, then rides Thunders again and says he misses the heft of Indy's, then says they're clunky and heavy and he skates better on Thunders....
This is me. I probably skate better on Indys or Ventures, but man are Ace just fun to skate.
I feel you, I keep aces on my cruisers for this reason
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Hah. This is starting to sound more like the Madness thread than the Indy thread. :)
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I mean, a lot of my madness is like "why is it that Indy are the default but I can't make them work?!?! Is it me? It's gotta be me. I mean, I have personal data to suggest I didn't skate as well on them, but maybe now my technique has improved and they will work. They work for Reynolds. He's the GOAT. But Ishod is also the GOAT and is on Thunders..."
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Just gave my last pair of Indy's away and feeling pretty stoked about it.
(I do have some Stage 3 131stashed away.. but that's another story...)
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I flop back and forth. NGL, indy are chunky/hefty to me, but the swerve-yness (like ACE) is very nice (look at Tfunk when he's setting up for tricks), thunder nice and light but wheelbitey...I'm odd in that I don't worry about 'popfeel' I just adjust...takes less than hour ollieing over shit (I have big ollies so it's bash the tail and hope for the best with any truck).
For now, it's Indy since I'm on 54mm wheels and skate loose...that's a deathknell on Thunders for me.
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When I say pop feel I mean the timing for flip tricks. Mentally thinking pop back foot/lift front foot, slide and lift back foot, flick.
On Indy there is more distinct delay between pop and drag/flick. Thunder it's less of a delay and feels more fluid and I tend to flick harder.
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If you're wanting to size down from 149s would you stop at 144? or go completely down to 139s?
I found my perfect shape. A Quasi 8.125 and I'm deciding which truck is the best for the next 50 bones.
I'm skeptical the 44s may stick out and not make a difference on the weight;
but then again I think 139s might be too small to have that chilled turn and comfy lock on those grinds.
I say keep the 149’s. I tried it on same size Snack similar shape to Quasi (PS Stix) and loved it.
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Did you size up to or down to 8.125? Personally I'd go with 144. Such a tiny hot rod. 144's are more nimble than 149's, which would stick out a decent amount.
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Hah. This is starting to sound more like the Madness thread than the Indy thread. :)
I feel like indys are probably the MOST fucked with truck. so madness and indy's kinda go hand in hand. With all the height/weight/size/bushing options offered from indy themselves its pretty easy to go down the madness hole.
I flop back and forth. NGL, indy are chunky/hefty to me, but the swerve-yness (like ACE) is very nice (look at Tfunk when he's setting up for tricks), thunder nice and light but wheelbitey...I'm odd in that I don't worry about 'popfeel' I just adjust...takes less than hour ollieing over shit (I have big ollies so it's bash the tail and hope for the best with any truck).
For now, it's Indy since I'm on 54mm wheels and skate loose...that's a deathknell on Thunders for me.
Usually takes me almost the life of a deck to FULLY acclimate to popfeel on different trucks. Wheel size is def a contributing factor to me riding indys. I mostly ride 56mm classics, sometimes 54. i love being able to ride 56mm with no riser and still have a decently turny setup (cast plates). I even ran 56mm on forged plates and only had to tighten a little more. They were still way looser than i could ride thunders with 54mm wheels.
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I guess I could run forged thunders with 1/8” risers, that’s just a hair past indy forged height…but I tend to not like tall trucks.
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I guess I could run forged thunders with 1/8” risers, that’s just a hair past indy forged height…but I tend to not like tall trucks.
Never tried thunders with risers, have heard good things. After i realized i could get away with 56mm wheels on indys without risers, i completely wrote off using them all together.
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I used to think it was dumb but now I value that thunders are lighter and the turning radius might be up some people’s alley……
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I used to think it was dumb but now I value that thunders are lighter and the turning radius might be up some people’s alley……
as long as you ride smaller wheels, or risers, or both.
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I've ran 54's fine on Thunders no risers. I do wonder- what is considered small? I typically ride 52-53 starting diameter no issue, obviously smaller as they wear.
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So if I’m finding my kingpins to be getting in the way what makes more sense: inverted mids with risers or switch out the baseplates?
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So if I’m finding my kingpins to be getting in the way what makes more sense: inverted mids with risers or switch out the baseplates?
Switch the baseplates. unless you have ground your hangers down a lot already.
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I wheelbite thunders with 52s easy, 50/51s with wheel wells/cast is my sweet spot. I'm 190/195lbs depending on the day and ride loose.
I can safely ride indy forged with 54mm with some minor wheelbite but without getting pitched.
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So if I’m finding my kingpins to be getting in the way what makes more sense: inverted mids with risers or switch out the baseplates?
Switch the baseplates. unless you have ground your hangers down a lot already.
Are we talking when you do something like smith or feeble grinds, or just when the trucks are sitting on a fifty position?
Definitely going to be a different situation for either and maybe getting an angle grinder onto the kingpins, but I think pics of the trucks would be best.
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They’re showing off the new Indy.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmkHfvBMn8b/?igshid=ZDFmNTE4Nzc=
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They’re showing off the new Indy.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmkHfvBMn8b/?igshid=ZDFmNTE4Nzc=
Oh shit!
The looks are growing on me.
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It’s to appease middle aged men after they ditched the iron cross…
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
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So if I’m finding my kingpins to be getting in the way what makes more sense: inverted mids with risers or switch out the baseplates?
Switch the baseplates. unless you have ground your hangers down a lot already.
Are we talking when you do something like smith or feeble grinds, or just when the trucks are sitting on a fifty position?
Definitely going to be a different situation for either and maybe getting an angle grinder onto the kingpins, but I think pics of the trucks would be best.
More an issue with slappy’s on rounded/softer curbs, where like the edge of the kingpin closest to the center of the board digs in and then grinds down to a slope. On hard squared off curbs and ledges, etc, it’s fine, guess it just grind thru no prob.
I think this may be the answer, standards with inverted kingpin. But this truck ugly af imo.
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/descpage-INLLITR.html
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I still kinda want a set of those ikp baseplates and some krux dlk pins, I got a bunch of old indy hangers that I could probably squeeze a little extra life out of with an ikp.
one of the many things I see in skating and want but just never get around to buying/trying.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
Yeah I skate an ~8 with 144s but I think the 151 will be a little wide for that size. I also have an ~8.5” which sees occasional use but I won’t wear out the trucks anytime soon since it doesn’t get skated much.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
I have always kept to standards as far as trucks go, so I don't really follow the hollow axle, or ti or the more out there trends, but I don't really recall seeing many from any brands until maybe 2010 or later.
I can't even think of any older Indy stages that had them, besides maybe the late Stage 10 (2011) but definitely the Stage 11 (from 2012) versions, eg some USA made Indy low Reynolds 129 have hollow everything.
I know I have some fairly old versions of Silver or similar type of truck brands that had hollow axles that must have been left at the shop when people upgraded trucks, but others like Thunder, even Thunder lows with forged plates and hollow axles were a surprise when they came out.
Now I guess everyone has hollow kingpins, axles, forged baseplates, etc.
It is interesting trying to work out when things like that came about though, or hearing from anyone who did have any good knowledge on that side of things.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
I have always kept to standards as far as trucks go, so I don't really follow the hollow axle, or ti or the more out there trends, but I don't really recall seeing many from any brands until maybe 2010 or later.
I can't even think of any older Indy stages that had them, besides maybe the late Stage 10 (2011) but definitely the Stage 11 (from 2012) versions, eg some USA made Indy low Reynolds 129 have hollow everything.
I know I have some fairly old versions of Silver or similar type of truck brands that had hollow axles that must have been left at the shop when people upgraded trucks, but others like Thunder, even Thunder lows with forged plates and hollow axles were a surprise when they came out.
Now I guess everyone has hollow kingpins, axles, forged baseplates, etc.
It is interesting trying to work out when things like that came about though, or hearing from anyone who did have any good knowledge on that side of things.
I was going to guess indy hollows came out in '09-'10
best i can find is this transworld article from August 2010 that mentions the "new" lutzka forged hollows with a link to a catalog that no longer works. Could reasonably assume the cast hollows released before them, but if it was as early as 2009 remains in question.
https://skateboarding.transworld.net/news/independent-trucks-fall-catalog-online/
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We're Venture Featherlights hollow? Or just forged plates? Or anything different? I remember green bushings being a flex in a sea of Maroon bushings/gold washers.
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
Pretty sure the lows came out during stage 9. I had these kostons, game them to a friend who rode them for years.
https://skateparkoftampa.com/spot/p.aspx?ID=14719
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
I have always kept to standards as far as trucks go, so I don't really follow the hollow axle, or ti or the more out there trends, but I don't really recall seeing many from any brands until maybe 2010 or later.
I can't even think of any older Indy stages that had them, besides maybe the late Stage 10 (2011) but definitely the Stage 11 (from 2012) versions, eg some USA made Indy low Reynolds 129 have hollow everything.
I know I have some fairly old versions of Silver or similar type of truck brands that had hollow axles that must have been left at the shop when people upgraded trucks, but others like Thunder, even Thunder lows with forged plates and hollow axles were a surprise when they came out.
Now I guess everyone has hollow kingpins, axles, forged baseplates, etc.
It is interesting trying to work out when things like that came about though, or hearing from anyone who did have any good knowledge on that side of things.
I was going to guess indy hollows came out in '09-'10
best i can find is this transworld article from August 2010 that mentions the "new" lutzka forged hollows with a link to a catalog that no longer works. Could reasonably assume the cast hollows released before them, but if it was as early as 2009 remains in question.
https://skateboarding.transworld.net/news/independent-trucks-fall-catalog-online/
Forged baseplate solid kingpin and hanger predates anything hollow from Indy. I may be wrong but I think Thunder did the hollow stuff first.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
I have always kept to standards as far as trucks go, so I don't really follow the hollow axle, or ti or the more out there trends, but I don't really recall seeing many from any brands until maybe 2010 or later.
I can't even think of any older Indy stages that had them, besides maybe the late Stage 10 (2011) but definitely the Stage 11 (from 2012) versions, eg some USA made Indy low Reynolds 129 have hollow everything.
I know I have some fairly old versions of Silver or similar type of truck brands that had hollow axles that must have been left at the shop when people upgraded trucks, but others like Thunder, even Thunder lows with forged plates and hollow axles were a surprise when they came out.
Now I guess everyone has hollow kingpins, axles, forged baseplates, etc.
It is interesting trying to work out when things like that came about though, or hearing from anyone who did have any good knowledge on that side of things.
I was going to guess indy hollows came out in '09-'10
best i can find is this transworld article from August 2010 that mentions the "new" lutzka forged hollows with a link to a catalog that no longer works. Could reasonably assume the cast hollows released before them, but if it was as early as 2009 remains in question.
https://skateboarding.transworld.net/news/independent-trucks-fall-catalog-online/
Forged baseplate solid kingpin and hanger predates anything hollow from Indy. I may be wrong but I think Thunder did the hollow stuff first.
you are somewhat right, just in a slightly different order. Thunder were the first truck company to utilize/introduce a forged plate and hollow kingpin, in late 2009 if I’m not mistaken. Indy being the second, followed by venture, and then a few others.
when Indy introduced their first hollow kingpin/forged truck, it was only available in one color, silver hollow hangers, with a hollow forged gold basplate. that was the only color you could get for the first 6-8 months.
then , for a very short bit, indy actually made a forged hollow model with hollow hangers, and the forged plates had a solid kingpin. they only produced this particular model for less than a year, thankfully, I scored a pair, and still have the forged/solid kingpin
plates. when Indy first came out with their forged/hollow model, they were still manufacturing the stage 10.
I know their cast hollow model was the third to be produced, but I’m not sure if that was offered before, or after they released the stage 11. I do know for a fact though, that the forged titanium indy was only ever produced in stage 11.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
I have always kept to standards as far as trucks go, so I don't really follow the hollow axle, or ti or the more out there trends, but I don't really recall seeing many from any brands until maybe 2010 or later.
I can't even think of any older Indy stages that had them, besides maybe the late Stage 10 (2011) but definitely the Stage 11 (from 2012) versions, eg some USA made Indy low Reynolds 129 have hollow everything.
I know I have some fairly old versions of Silver or similar type of truck brands that had hollow axles that must have been left at the shop when people upgraded trucks, but others like Thunder, even Thunder lows with forged plates and hollow axles were a surprise when they came out.
Now I guess everyone has hollow kingpins, axles, forged baseplates, etc.
It is interesting trying to work out when things like that came about though, or hearing from anyone who did have any good knowledge on that side of things.
I was going to guess indy hollows came out in '09-'10
best i can find is this transworld article from August 2010 that mentions the "new" lutzka forged hollows with a link to a catalog that no longer works. Could reasonably assume the cast hollows released before them, but if it was as early as 2009 remains in question.
https://skateboarding.transworld.net/news/independent-trucks-fall-catalog-online/
Forged baseplate solid kingpin and hanger predates anything hollow from Indy. I may be wrong but I think Thunder did the hollow stuff first.
you are somewhat right, just in a slightly different order. Thunder were the first truck company to utilize/introduce a forged plate and hollow kingpin, in late 2009 if I’m not mistaken. Indy being the second, followed by venture, and then a few others.
when Indy introduced their first hollow kingpin/forged truck, it was only available in one color, silver hollow hangers, with a hollow forged gold basplate. that was the only color you could get for the first 6-8 months. when they first came out with the forged hollow model in all silver, it was technically the “koston pro colorway” after he left, they started marking it with the “hollow” graphic on the hanger.
then , for a very short bit, indy actually made a forged hollow model with hollow hangers, and the forged plates had a solid kingpin. they only produced this particular model for less than a year, thankfully, I scored a pair, and still have the forged/solid kingpin
plates. when Indy first came out with their forged/hollow model, they were still manufacturing the stage 10.
I know their cast hollow model was the third to be produced, but I’m not sure if that was offered before, or after they released the stage 11. I do know for a fact though, that the forged titanium indy was only ever produced in stage 11.
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
Pretty sure the lows came out during stage 9. I had these kostons, game them to a friend who rode them for years.
https://skateparkoftampa.com/spot/p.aspx?ID=14719
this particular indy low with the inward shaped hangers were actually stage 10. When they first came out with these I’m almost positive they were completely solid kingpin and axle, however I could be mistaken, and it could have been hollow kingpin/solid hanger.
this first indy low came with red conical bushings. I remember skating 2 sets of these, and they were the best turning low truck I’ve ever skated. then, when indy came out with the stage 11 truck, they revamped their indy stage low, this model was only offered with red barrel bushings, this indy low definitely had a turn more similar to a venture low. and when the indy stage 11 low was first introduced, I’m pretty sure it was offered in a all hollow model.
but the indy low, stage 10 and 11 was never produced with a forged plate. I’ve tried to Frankenstein a forged plate with indy lows, and my 110lb ass was wheelbiting all over the place lmao.
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
Pretty sure the lows came out during stage 9. I had these kostons, game them to a friend who rode them for years.
https://skateparkoftampa.com/spot/p.aspx?ID=14719
this particular indy low with the inward shaped hangers were actually stage 10. When they first came out with these I’m almost positive they were completely solid kingpin and axle, however I could be mistaken, and it could have been hollow kingpin/solid hanger.
this first indy low came with red conical bushings. I remember skating 2 sets of these, and they were the best turning low truck I’ve ever skated. then, when indy came out with the stage 11 truck, they revamped their indy stage low, this model was only offered with red barrel bushings, this indy low definitely had a turn more similar to a venture low. and when the indy stage 11 low was first introduced, I’m pretty sure it was offered in a all hollow model.
but the indy low, stage 10 and 11 was never produced with a forged plate. I’ve tried to Frankenstein a forged plate with indy lows, and my 110lb ass was wheelbiting all over the place lmao.
nice, gnar'd for two great posts in a row.
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
Pretty sure the lows came out during stage 9. I had these kostons, game them to a friend who rode them for years.
https://skateparkoftampa.com/spot/p.aspx?ID=14719
this particular indy low with the inward shaped hangers were actually stage 10. When they first came out with these I’m almost positive they were completely solid kingpin and axle, however I could be mistaken, and it could have been hollow kingpin/solid hanger.
this first indy low came with red conical bushings. I remember skating 2 sets of these, and they were the best turning low truck I’ve ever skated. then, when indy came out with the stage 11 truck, they revamped their indy stage low, this model was only offered with red barrel bushings, this indy low definitely had a turn more similar to a venture low. and when the indy stage 11 low was first introduced, I’m pretty sure it was offered in a all hollow model.
but the indy low, stage 10 and 11 was never produced with a forged plate. I’ve tried to Frankenstein a forged plate with indy lows, and my 110lb ass was wheelbiting all over the place lmao.
nice, gnar'd for two great posts in a row.
back at ya brother! 🫡 🤜🏻 🤛🏻
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
I have always kept to standards as far as trucks go, so I don't really follow the hollow axle, or ti or the more out there trends, but I don't really recall seeing many from any brands until maybe 2010 or later.
I can't even think of any older Indy stages that had them, besides maybe the late Stage 10 (2011) but definitely the Stage 11 (from 2012) versions, eg some USA made Indy low Reynolds 129 have hollow everything.
I know I have some fairly old versions of Silver or similar type of truck brands that had hollow axles that must have been left at the shop when people upgraded trucks, but others like Thunder, even Thunder lows with forged plates and hollow axles were a surprise when they came out.
Now I guess everyone has hollow kingpins, axles, forged baseplates, etc.
It is interesting trying to work out when things like that came about though, or hearing from anyone who did have any good knowledge on that side of things.
I was going to guess indy hollows came out in '09-'10
best i can find is this transworld article from August 2010 that mentions the "new" lutzka forged hollows with a link to a catalog that no longer works. Could reasonably assume the cast hollows released before them, but if it was as early as 2009 remains in question.
https://skateboarding.transworld.net/news/independent-trucks-fall-catalog-online/
Forged baseplate solid kingpin and hanger predates anything hollow from Indy. I may be wrong but I think Thunder did the hollow stuff first.
Titan Ti-lites were around in the early 2000s and had hollow axles and kingpins
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They’re showing off the new Indy.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmkHfvBMn8b/?igshid=ZDFmNTE4Nzc=
Those look really good. Will definitely be copping a set.
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
Pretty sure the lows came out during stage 9. I had these kostons, game them to a friend who rode them for years.
https://skateparkoftampa.com/spot/p.aspx?ID=14719
From the "skate history bookmarks" from a while back:
IndependentTrucks (21 August 2006). "Eric Koston - New Independent Stage 9 Low" (Video upload). YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2U99h2aIhk
Too bad the video was removed, but the links were still around, back when Koston did actually ride Independent rather than Thunder or now Venture.
Also, that pic from the SPOT / Tampa shop does look like the Stage 9 as it has the holes in the baseplate.
Stage 9 had the two "nose holes" in the baseplate, but Stage 10 and on, as well as older stages did not.
This might be a bit redundant, but I did a comparison with some different versions not too long ago.
Pics are a bit blurry, but at least the basics are easy enough to see.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CmNvYQpJBiG/
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this particular indy low with the inward shaped hangers were actually stage 10. When they first came out with these I’m almost positive they were completely solid kingpin and axle, however I could be mistaken, and it could have been hollow kingpin/solid hanger.
this first indy low came with red conical bushings. I remember skating 2 sets of these, and they were the best turning low truck I’ve ever skated.
@gaunting
That is the sort of info I love to hear.
Thanks for posting!!!
I didn't skate them, but I have a used set of the 139 Stage 10 low trucks, solid everything, red bushings, almost weird shaped axle ends, but the guy that had them thought they were amazing too.
Oddly enough he hardly skated them, or at least didn't grind on them much at all, but it is interesting to see them and compare them to the other versions.
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
Pretty sure the lows came out during stage 9. I had these kostons, game them to a friend who rode them for years.
https://skateparkoftampa.com/spot/p.aspx?ID=14719
From the "skate history bookmarks" from a while back:
IndependentTrucks (21 August 2006). "Eric Koston - New Independent Stage 9 Low" (Video upload). YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2U99h2aIhk
Too bad the video was removed, but the links were still around, back when Koston did actually ride Independent rather than Thunder or now Venture.
Also, that pic from the SPOT / Tampa shop does look like the Stage 9 as it has the holes in the baseplate.
Stage 9 had the two "nose holes" in the baseplate, but Stage 10 and on, as well as older stages did not.
This might be a bit redundant, but I did a comparison with some different versions not too long ago.
Pics are a bit blurry, but at least the basics are easy enough to see.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CmNvYQpJBiG/
Dang! 2006!?
I'm loving all this new/old info.
And the mention of titan to lites always makes me laugh.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
I have always kept to standards as far as trucks go, so I don't really follow the hollow axle, or ti or the more out there trends, but I don't really recall seeing many from any brands until maybe 2010 or later.
I can't even think of any older Indy stages that had them, besides maybe the late Stage 10 (2011) but definitely the Stage 11 (from 2012) versions, eg some USA made Indy low Reynolds 129 have hollow everything.
I know I have some fairly old versions of Silver or similar type of truck brands that had hollow axles that must have been left at the shop when people upgraded trucks, but others like Thunder, even Thunder lows with forged plates and hollow axles were a surprise when they came out.
Now I guess everyone has hollow kingpins, axles, forged baseplates, etc.
It is interesting trying to work out when things like that came about though, or hearing from anyone who did have any good knowledge on that side of things.
Well, your logic is flawless as always. But the kid that got new trucks back then, I remember kind of vividly, that a smaller crowd of 5-6 had gathered around to witness tha magical trucks. Everyone was kind of awed about them not snapping or breaking, so that’s why my mind want it to be because they were hollowed out. But it could easily have been something else. What weirdly designed trucks was around?
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
Pretty sure the lows came out during stage 9. I had these kostons, game them to a friend who rode them for years.
https://skateparkoftampa.com/spot/p.aspx?ID=14719
this particular indy low with the inward shaped hangers were actually stage 10. When they first came out with these I’m almost positive they were completely solid kingpin and axle, however I could be mistaken, and it could have been hollow kingpin/solid hanger.
this first indy low came with red conical bushings. I remember skating 2 sets of these, and they were the best turning low truck I’ve ever skated. then, when indy came out with the stage 11 truck, they revamped their indy stage low, this model was only offered with red barrel bushings, this indy low definitely had a turn more similar to a venture low. and when the indy stage 11 low was first introduced, I’m pretty sure it was offered in a all hollow model.
but the indy low, stage 10 and 11 was never produced with a forged plate. I’ve tried to Frankenstein a forged plate with indy lows, and my 110lb ass was wheelbiting all over the place lmao.
Thanks both, the lows I had came with red barrel bushings that were extremely soft and I used to swap with firmer ones. The turn was definitely similar to Venture as I could switch from one truck to another with zero adjustment time.
Edit: they had solid everything
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^ I rode a few sets around '94 and they were normal cast, solid everything. The green bushings were indeed a flex ;D
Really good trucks for the time but I definitely broke a couple of baseplates, riding mega-tight trucks.
Edit: Does anyone know what stage or general dims were the low Indys with the slanted hangers? I rode a load of those circa 2010 but I was not paying attention to sizes etc, everything just "fit" anyway. I can't find any images or reference online.
Pretty sure the lows came out during stage 9. I had these kostons, game them to a friend who rode them for years.
https://skateparkoftampa.com/spot/p.aspx?ID=14719
this particular indy low with the inward shaped hangers were actually stage 10. When they first came out with these I’m almost positive they were completely solid kingpin and axle, however I could be mistaken, and it could have been hollow kingpin/solid hanger.
this first indy low came with red conical bushings. I remember skating 2 sets of these, and they were the best turning low truck I’ve ever skated. then, when indy came out with the stage 11 truck, they revamped their indy stage low, this model was only offered with red barrel bushings, this indy low definitely had a turn more similar to a venture low. and when the indy stage 11 low was first introduced, I’m pretty sure it was offered in a all hollow model.
but the indy low, stage 10 and 11 was never produced with a forged plate. I’ve tried to Frankenstein a forged plate with indy lows, and my 110lb ass was wheelbiting all over the place lmao.
Thanks both, the lows I had came with red barrel bushings that were extremely soft and I used to swap with firmer ones. The turn was definitely similar to Venture as I could switch from one truck to another with zero adjustment time.
Edit: they had solid everything
Yea, I remember having the black/gold kostons and the silver ones with red bushings. all solid on both.
Wasnt a fan of them tbh. Didn't understand my setup as well at the time, but the height def fucked my pop all up.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
I’ve been skating again since June, but I skated when I was a kid from 1998-2001 or smth.
Back then another kid had just got hollow axle/hanger trucks, and everyone was all like “whoa, that’s some radical magic shit right there.”
They had red baseplates. Were they fury’s or Indy’s? Or something else?
Does one of the wizards on here remember when hollows became a thing? Google gives me nothing, and neither does my memory.
I have always kept to standards as far as trucks go, so I don't really follow the hollow axle, or ti or the more out there trends, but I don't really recall seeing many from any brands until maybe 2010 or later.
I can't even think of any older Indy stages that had them, besides maybe the late Stage 10 (2011) but definitely the Stage 11 (from 2012) versions, eg some USA made Indy low Reynolds 129 have hollow everything.
I know I have some fairly old versions of Silver or similar type of truck brands that had hollow axles that must have been left at the shop when people upgraded trucks, but others like Thunder, even Thunder lows with forged plates and hollow axles were a surprise when they came out.
Now I guess everyone has hollow kingpins, axles, forged baseplates, etc.
It is interesting trying to work out when things like that came about though, or hearing from anyone who did have any good knowledge on that side of things.
I was going to guess indy hollows came out in '09-'10
best i can find is this transworld article from August 2010 that mentions the "new" lutzka forged hollows with a link to a catalog that no longer works. Could reasonably assume the cast hollows released before them, but if it was as early as 2009 remains in question.
https://skateboarding.transworld.net/news/independent-trucks-fall-catalog-online/
Forged baseplate solid kingpin and hanger predates anything hollow from Indy. I may be wrong but I think Thunder did the hollow stuff first.
Titan Ti-lites were around in the early 2000s and had hollow axles and kingpins
I completely forgot about those. 🤣 they were atrocious.
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I completely forgot about those. 🤣 they were atrocious.
I never had a pair but I remember my friends riding them. They were always really loud and squeaky. The set screw for the axle would back out and get lost so they would axle slip all over the place. I remember people putting paper clips and cotter pins in there to try to keep the axle in place but it never worked. Sorry to derail the Indy thread.
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My homie in Highschool came up with the idea of putting a destructo hangar on a titan ti-lite baseplate. I thought it was genius, and it almost ended our friendship when I copied him
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I was reading a Thrasher from 92 last night and came across a Z Rollers ad that was touting their new hollow axles. Dunno if Z necessarily counts but maybe they were first to the Hollow party?
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During the early '90s, Deadbolt had an axle that was hollow and threaded to fit hex bolts instead of nuts. I do not know if it was hollow all the way through or just enough for the threading.
If wheel core spacing was standardized, all trucks would have this feature and mangled axles would be a thing of the past.
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
KP clearance doesn't look great.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm1tTB2J01d/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
Yeah I skate an ~8 with 144s but I think the 151 will be a little wide for that size. I also have an ~8.5” which sees occasional use but I won’t wear out the trucks anytime soon since it doesn’t get skated much.
They actually have a 147. I'm riding them right now on an 8.25 and they are amazing. Wheelbase & turning seems similar to Ace, yet, this truck feels much more sturdy. Still kinda surfy, which is what I loved about Ace's.
I also much prefer how Indy's grind compared to both Ace original & AF1...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CluHVx7SNrz/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/CluHVx7SNrz/)
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I like them. Back to the early Independent look before they went for a Tracker like hanger. And I guess a bit of weight will be knocked off.
Yeah, I think they look great but I’m disappointed that they are not coming any smaller than 151. I would be interested in a ~144 size, personally.
You can probably skate them on an 8.25” no problem. I’m looking forward to their release.
Yeah I skate an ~8 with 144s but I think the 151 will be a little wide for that size. I also have an ~8.5” which sees occasional use but I won’t wear out the trucks anytime soon since it doesn’t get skated much.
They actually have a 147. I'm riding them right now on an 8.25 and they are amazing. Wheelbase & turning seems similar to Ace, yet, this truck feels much more sturdy. Still kinda surfy, which is what I loved about Ace's.
I also much prefer how Indy's grind compared to both Ace original & AF1...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CluHVx7SNrz/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/CluHVx7SNrz/)
Fuck yeah, that’s exactly what I wanted to hear. I guess I know with what I’ll be replacing my AF-1s when they wear out.
Agreed about Indy grind. I love how the Ace skate but when I hit a curb, there’s just no comparison.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm1tTB2J01d/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Me likey! Dig the new branding, looks super retro
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Those look great and I am sure grind and turn great. However, KP clearance does look limited.
Not sure I will bother since Ace and Thunder already suit my needs but when I see them in person it could be another story...
Curious about sizing.
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I prefer the sidepipe hanger to this. The red bushing with the logo looks cool though.
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I prefer the sidepipe hanger to this. The red bushing with the logo looks cool though.
I think red bushings were stock at the time of stage 4
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https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm1tTB2J01d/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
its so embarrassing that every time they post a product photo people are still complaining about the logo change, come on guys, its been years get over it
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It’s crazy people are [still] so hung up on the logo…it’s like those people clamoring for skulls with top hats and fucking salamanders to be brought back to Thunder plates…oh wait, there aren’t any...
Logos, making people grind faster!
Anyway, not sold on the grind clearance…
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Being concerned with the Independent Trucks logo is one of the most pathetic things I can imagine as an adult. Go be with your family.
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Especially in the context of releasing these trucks….something NHS doesn’t need to do.
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Agreed. The comments were super depressing. You care more about a logo than a turn/ grind? GTFO.
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Anyway, not sold on the grind clearance…
Would throwing those hangars on an IKP baseplate be counterintuitive?
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They actually have a 147. I'm riding them right now on an 8.25 and they are amazing. Wheelbase & turning seems similar to Ace, yet, this truck feels much more sturdy. Still kinda surfy, which is what I loved about Ace's.
I also much prefer how Indy's grind compared to both Ace original & AF1...
When you say 147, I guess we will see soon enough, but as Thunder has 147 which is 8", Indy measures by mm so 147mm axle - just a touch wider than 144 and less than 149s, much the same as the Ace 44 Classics?
It's the little things in measurements and names / numbers in skateboarding can be very confusing at times.
Also agree and could not care one bit about a logo either way, with people going silly about it just make me ignore them, but that is what people do nowdays hey? Just sit on your device and get so deep into things that don't matter at all in the real world.
I skate them because they work, not for any other reason.
Pretty simple.
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could you chuck an inverted kingpin on those cunts or what
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Being concerned with the Independent Trucks logo is one of the most pathetic things I can imagine as an adult. Go be with your family.
Especially considering that the Stage 4 didn't have them either. They came on stage 8.
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They actually have a 147. I'm riding them right now on an 8.25 and they are amazing. Wheelbase & turning seems similar to Ace, yet, this truck feels much more sturdy. Still kinda surfy, which is what I loved about Ace's.
I also much prefer how Indy's grind compared to both Ace original & AF1...
When you say 147, I guess we will see soon enough, but as Thunder has 147 which is 8", Indy measures by mm so 147mm axle - just a touch wider than 144 and less than 149s, much the same as the Ace 44 Classics?
It's the little things in measurements and names / numbers in skateboarding can be very confusing at times.
Also agree and could not care one bit about a logo either way, with people going silly about it just make me ignore them, but that is what people do nowdays hey? Just sit on your device and get so deep into things that don't matter at all in the real world.
I skate them because they work, not for any other reason.
Pretty simple.
Before stage 9 all the numbers ended in 7, since stage 7. 147s were 8.25 before 144. Maybe they are using that number to differentiate between the two stages that are going to be out at the same time? Although using the stage 7 sizing for a stage 4 truck would be odd. I think during stage 4 they were called “wide”,”fucking wide”, and “mother fucking wide”.
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They actually have a 147. I'm riding them right now on an 8.25 and they are amazing. Wheelbase & turning seems similar to Ace, yet, this truck feels much more sturdy. Still kinda surfy, which is what I loved about Ace's.
I also much prefer how Indy's grind compared to both Ace original & AF1...
When you say 147, I guess we will see soon enough, but as Thunder has 147 which is 8", Indy measures by mm so 147mm axle - just a touch wider than 144 and less than 149s, much the same as the Ace 44 Classics?
Praying they offer an 8.375 axle!
All this speculation is killing me. Can’t wait until they’re out
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They actually have a 147. I'm riding them right now on an 8.25 and they are amazing. Wheelbase & turning seems similar to Ace, yet, this truck feels much more sturdy. Still kinda surfy, which is what I loved about Ace's.
I also much prefer how Indy's grind compared to both Ace original & AF1...
When you say 147, I guess we will see soon enough, but as Thunder has 147 which is 8", Indy measures by mm so 147mm axle - just a touch wider than 144 and less than 149s, much the same as the Ace 44 Classics?
It's the little things in measurements and names / numbers in skateboarding can be very confusing at times.
Also agree and could not care one bit about a logo either way, with people going silly about it just make me ignore them, but that is what people do nowdays hey? Just sit on your device and get so deep into things that don't matter at all in the real world.
I skate them because they work, not for any other reason.
Pretty simple.
Before stage 9 all the numbers ended in 7, since stage 7. 147s were 8.25 before 144. Maybe they are using that number to differentiate between the two stages that are going to be out at the same time? Although using the stage 7 sizing for a stage 4 truck would be odd. I think during stage 4 they were called “wide”,”fucking wide”, and “mother fucking wide”.
According to the Indy book, the Stage IV came out in 159 (FW) and 169 (MFW) as well as the 215 that's still around today (Big 10 Inch.) It's stages VII and VIII that shifted to the 6 instead of the 9 with 136, 146, 156 and 166 being available for 7 and then they added a 126 for 8. If a 147 is coming it is a new thing entirely.
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Just posted the same information as Jakeumms at the same time... ;D
Indy numbers never ended in 7 (stage 1 77 is the exception)
Stage 1 was 77, 88, 109, 121, 131, 151, 169
Stage 2 was 151, 169
Stage 3 was, 99, 131, 159, 169, 215
Stage 4 was 159, 169, 215
Stage 5 was 149, 159, 169
Stage 6 was 149, 159, 169
stage 7 was 136, 146, 156, 166
Stage 8 126, 136, 146, 156, 166
Stage 9 129, 139, 149, 159, 169
Interestingly some sizes from previous stages continued to be available while new sizes in new stages were out, much like current 109s having stage 1 geo and current 215s having stage 4 geo.
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They actually have a 147. I'm riding them right now on an 8.25 and they are amazing. Wheelbase & turning seems similar to Ace, yet, this truck feels much more sturdy. Still kinda surfy, which is what I loved about Ace's.
I also much prefer how Indy's grind compared to both Ace original & AF1...
When you say 147, I guess we will see soon enough, but as Thunder has 147 which is 8", Indy measures by mm so 147mm axle - just a touch wider than 144 and less than 149s, much the same as the Ace 44 Classics?
It's the little things in measurements and names / numbers in skateboarding can be very confusing at times.
Also agree and could not care one bit about a logo either way, with people going silly about it just make me ignore them, but that is what people do nowdays hey? Just sit on your device and get so deep into things that don't matter at all in the real world.
I skate them because they work, not for any other reason.
Pretty simple.
Before stage 9 all the numbers ended in 7, since stage 7. 147s were 8.25 before 144. Maybe they are using that number to differentiate between the two stages that are going to be out at the same time? Although using the stage 7 sizing for a stage 4 truck would be odd. I think during stage 4 they were called “wide”,”fucking wide”, and “mother fucking wide”.
Ahh that’s right, 6s not 7s. I transposed my Thunder/Indy. Carry on.
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It’s crazy people are [still] so hung up on the logo…it’s like those people clamoring for skulls with top hats and fucking salamanders to be brought back to Thunder plates…oh wait, there aren’t any...
Logos, making people grind faster!
Anyway, not sold on the grind clearance…
It's because for years Indy was the only company that made clothes over a 2xl so it's all these fat old guy wore and became part (or all) of their personality.
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It’s a way for racist SoCal chuds to dogwhistle to each other in public while maintaining plausible deniability. Guarantee 95% of them haven’t touched a skateboard since at least the 90s.
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“It’s a papal cross and the pope is good,” a thing said in the day when a former Nazi turned pope has died.
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China didn't have the best relationship with Nazi Germany since they were allies with Japan who kept attacking them.
When production moved to China, their factory probably was not liking the iron cross.
Since Indy needed to save $ and China is the cheapest option, logo had to go.
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Anyway, not sold on the grind clearance…
Would throwing those hangars on an IKP baseplate be counterintuitive?
For what it’s worth, I rode my 215s on the inverted shaft nut baseplate for a while. If the hangers are the same geo, it should work fine on the new model.
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Anyone know the height on the new indys.
Super happy with my setup right now, and said I wouldn't swap off indys.
But these are technically indys haha. And in an 8.37 axle I might have to try them.
Edit: yea, questionable kp clearance though for sure.
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China didn't have the best relationship with Nazi Germany since they were allies with Japan who kept attacking them.
When production moved to China, their factory probably was not liking the iron cross.
Since Indy needed to save $ and China is the cheapest option, logo had to go.
I’m pretty sure this message board had more to do with the iron cross being abandoned than World War II…..
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Hope they'll have them as forged titaniums also. Would definitely get a set.
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They look like Indys to me. What‘s the real difference? Weight? Height? WB? Only time will tell.
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Uh huh……yeah……….
Onto more important topics…..anyone know what these trucks do to your wheelbase?
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Uh huh……yeah……….
Onto more important topics…..anyone know what these trucks do to your wheelbase?
Yea, anyone with height and WB info?
Please step forward and divulge the juicy details.
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Anyway, not sold on the grind clearance…
Would throwing those hangars on an IKP baseplate be counterintuitive?
For what it’s worth, I rode my 215s on the inverted shaft nut baseplate for a while. If the hangers are the same geo, it should work fine on the new model.
Got it.
I bought mids and threw them on 169s with the Krux IKP.
They were super loose and squirrelly but that clearance was there.
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Seems like inverted kingpins, forged and hollow options defeat the point on this truck. Get a taste of the past and ride as is first.
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Anyway, not sold on the grind clearance…
Would throwing those hangars on an IKP baseplate be counterintuitive?
Not sure but I’m going to try; have they released any height info for the reissues? No idea what the OG IV were.
I’ve both forged and standard IKP plates ready and waiting.
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Honestly, I’m pretty sure the kingpin clearance is the same as the stage 11s. Looks like it sits about mid axle or a hair higher, which is the same as a set of standard 159/11s I have that are new.
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Anyway, not sold on the grind clearance…
Would throwing those hangars on an IKP baseplate be counterintuitive?
Not sure but I’m going to try; have they released any height info for the reissues? No idea what the OG IV were.
I’ve both forged and standard IKP plates ready and waiting.
Standard Indy's have been mostly 55mm throughout the years. Stage IX lowered it to 53.5 and that wasn't changed back until XI.
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it's so much less truck though, no? So I suspect you'd run into less clearance, but so what, the design is still better than a thunder. If you could swap them with IKP baseplates maybe, but I'd prolly just run them as they are, they look sick.
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Seems like inverted kingpins, forged and hollow options defeat the point on this truck. Get a taste of the past and ride as is first.
i could see hollow kingpin & axles later if these do well. but i think these are limited release?
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i need them in anodized red like the Stage 5
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
You mean somewhere between the durometer of graphene and diamond?
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
You mean somewhere between the durometer of graphene and diamond?
think the reds are softer than orange, no?
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
You mean somewhere between the durometer of graphene and diamond?
think the reds are softer than orange, no?
They're supposed to be but the reds are notorious for being the worst. Hard with no rebound.
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
You mean somewhere between the durometer of graphene and diamond?
think the reds are softer than orange, no?
Interesting, never knew they had that rep.
Say's they are 88a vs the 90a oragnes that come stock. I find the oranges to be too soft, I ride the hard (black) standard cylinder
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
You mean somewhere between the durometer of graphene and diamond?
think the reds are softer than orange, no?
I've had a couple of sets of 88a indy red aftermarkets and they were a great improvement on the stock yellow 90a but this was a few years back.
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
You mean somewhere between the durometer of graphene and diamond?
think the reds are softer than orange, no?
I've had a couple of sets of 88a indy red aftermarkets and they were a great improvement on the stock yellow 90a but this was a few years back.
stocks are orange, yellow is their hardest bushing.
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Whatever came with the trucks stock. Point is aftermarket reds were better and very good.
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
You mean somewhere between the durometer of graphene and diamond?
think the reds are softer than orange, no?
I've had a couple of sets of 88a indy red aftermarkets and they were a great improvement on the stock yellow 90a but this was a few years back.
I have found the stock bushings have gotten usable since they moved to China. I believe they are using the same as the orange aftermarket ones. When they were US made, people said the stock were not as nice as aftermarket.
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wonder if the bushings are the same duro as their red ones they make now.
You mean somewhere between the durometer of graphene and diamond?
think the reds are softer than orange, no?
I've had a couple of sets of 88a indy red aftermarkets and they were a great improvement on the stock yellow 90a but this was a few years back.
I have found the stock bushings have gotten usable since they moved to China. I believe they are using the same as the orange aftermarket ones. When they were US made, people said the stock were not as nice as aftermarket.
The stock bushings are markedly better than they were ~5 years ago. Work better and last longer. Reds are still unusable.
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Still unusable? I used them for years just fine... Really good bushings. Stock is a little too hard for my taste.
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I’ve ridden the aftermarket 88a conicals a number of times, they work great.
To echo what’s been said about the current stock offerings, they’re great and probably what they were using as aftermarket in the first place, both [now] being made in China.
There is still loads aftermarket barrels that’s are still taller than new stock tho…
I’ll still swap in Ace bushings with a low top tho.
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The “soft” red bushings are trash. Stock orange or super soft white is the solution.
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Stock orange are really good now, but slightly harder than the aftermarket orange. I found my kingpin setting to be the same with stock orange and aftermarket blue, whereas aftermarket orange I had to crank another 1/2-1 turn.
Reds were always weird for me. They felt as hard as blacks and my trucks would stay turning. I was at a shop a few months back and asked about hard bushings for Aces and the employee, who has no knowledge of numbers or math, took the reds out and said they were probably the hardest thing the shop had.
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Whatever came with the trucks stock. Point is aftermarket reds were better and very good.
Yea, I was just clarifying. IDK if you've ever felt the yellows but theyre fucking insane lol hard as stone.
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Yah, I wouldn't touch the yellows.
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Stock orange are really good now, but slightly harder than the aftermarket orange. I found my kingpin setting to be the same with stock orange and aftermarket blue, whereas aftermarket orange I had to crank another 1/2-1 turn.
Reds were always weird for me. They felt as hard as blacks and my trucks would stay turning. I was at a shop a few months back and asked about hard bushings for Aces and the employee, who has no knowledge of numbers or math, took the reds out and said they were probably the hardest thing the shop had.
That's sad. Skate shops and their employees need to be able to provide that kind of info and service if they want a snowballs chance in hell of surviving these days.
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I think your average customer has done a bit of research and to have a shop employee who isn’t fully in tune with bushing hardness may not get a pass from me…..but probably a pass….
Indy’s/Swiss/Spits/DLX, set it up, let er rip is 90% correct….
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Stock orange are really good now, but slightly harder than the aftermarket orange. I found my kingpin setting to be the same with stock orange and aftermarket blue, whereas aftermarket orange I had to crank another 1/2-1 turn.
Reds were always weird for me. They felt as hard as blacks and my trucks would stay turning. I was at a shop a few months back and asked about hard bushings for Aces and the employee, who has no knowledge of numbers or math, took the reds out and said they were probably the hardest thing the shop had.
That's sad. Skate shops and their employees need to be able to provide that kind of info and service if they want a snowballs chance in hell of surviving these days.
I don't think this is the case at all.
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Me to skate shop: ‘yes….I need the number two grit sheet of mob….I’ll be back quarterly….PS… can I have a sticker’?
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I'm one of those sickos that skates 159s with kreper kingpin. I'm addicted to 2003 skate gimmicks
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I think your average customer has done a bit of research and to have a shop employee who isn’t fully in tune with bushing hardness may not get a pass from me…..but probably a pass….
Indy’s/Swiss/Spits/DLX, set it up, let er rip is 90% correct….
Generally a safe bet
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Stock orange are really good now, but slightly harder than the aftermarket orange. I found my kingpin setting to be the same with stock orange and aftermarket blue, whereas aftermarket orange I had to crank another 1/2-1 turn.
Reds were always weird for me. They felt as hard as blacks and my trucks would stay turning. I was at a shop a few months back and asked about hard bushings for Aces and the employee, who has no knowledge of numbers or math, took the reds out and said they were probably the hardest thing the shop had.
That's sad. Skate shops and their employees need to be able to provide that kind of info and service if they want a snowballs chance in hell of surviving these days.
I don't think this is the case at all.
I mean unless you can provide a superior experience IDK how you can compete with the big guys. Because you certainly can't do it on price and hope to keep the doors open.
I'm not saying every shop employee should know the entire indy bushing duro/color chart.
But they should understand that higher duro means harder and lower means softer.
Should at least be able to vaguely describe how most components will affect your setup.
Again, not on the level of Paul Schmitt and his fucking protractor/caliper defined setups, but you should def be able to expect an employee to point you in the right direction and give you a basic description of the goods they are selling.
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I'm one of those sickos that skates 159s with kreper kingpin. I'm addicted to 2003 skate gimmicks
isnt the kreeper pin technically the lowest profile IKP option? like it gives you more clearance than any other?
I havent fucked with IKP much, but i thought this was the case after reading on here some
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I think the Kreper and OG Krux pink label are both equal in terms of max clearance, but the kreper is heavier and has way more threads (better).
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Me to skate shop: ‘yes….I need the number two grit sheet of mob….I’ll be back quarterly….PS… can I have a sticker’?
Wasn’t the sheet number debunked as it being relative to grit ratio?
Indy yellow are hard as fuck, on par with bones hards. I mixed yellow tops and orange bottoms, was a tough Break in period and the yellows never felt like they gave at all.
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Me to skate shop: ‘yes….I need the number two grit sheet of mob….I’ll be back quarterly….PS… can I have a sticker’?
Wasn’t the sheet number debunked as it being relative to grit ratio?
Indy yellow are hard as fuck, on par with bones hards. I mixed yellow tops and orange bottoms, was a tough Break in period and the yellows never felt like they gave at all.
Re Mob grip tape number - yes I think someone said it was which line it came from, as in they have half a dozen lines of production, line 1, line 2, line 3, etc.
The fifty sheets in the last box I got from a distro all had different numbers but were all identical in grit.
Maybe once it was something else, but now it is not.
Normal Mob or that Ultra or whatever it is, just like Jessup, normal and then rip you to shreds rough.
As for the Indy 96 yellow bushings, when they are broken in, they are not that hard and felt more like a stiff older stock bushing (as per some I got from a guy who destroys bushings on the regular), but from new they are ridiculous (as you said) and not anything I find comfortable.
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Me to skate shop: ‘yes….I need the number two grit sheet of mob….I’ll be back quarterly….PS… can I have a sticker’?
Wasn’t the sheet number debunked as it being relative to grit ratio?
Indy yellow are hard as fuck, on par with bones hards. I mixed yellow tops and orange bottoms, was a tough Break in period and the yellows never felt like they gave at all.
Re Mob grip tape number - yes I think someone said it was which line it came from, as in they have half a dozen lines of production, line 1, line 2, line 3, etc.
The fifty sheets in the last box I got from a distro all had different numbers but were all identical in grit.
Maybe once it was something else, but now it is not.
Normal Mob or that Ultra or whatever it is, just like Jessup, normal and then rip you to shreds rough.
As for the Indy 96 yellow bushings, when they are broken in, they are not that hard and felt more like a stiff older stock bushing (as per some I got from a guy who destroys bushings on the regular), but from new they are ridiculous (as you said) and not anything I find comfortable.
Old stocks were harder than they are now?
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(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51hPGMoEn8L._AC_SY1000_.jpg)
They are referring to aftermarket bushings not the stock ones. The Indy gold bushings are 90a
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(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51hPGMoEn8L._AC_SY1000_.jpg)
They are referring to aftermarket bushings not the stock ones. The Indy gold bushings are 90a
Sounded like @Mbrimson88 was comparing the yellow ones you just pictured to "older stiff stock" bushings
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I think your average customer has done a bit of research and to have a shop employee who isn’t fully in tune with bushing hardness may not get a pass from me…..but probably a pass….
Indy’s/Swiss/Spits/DLX, set it up, let er rip is 90% correct….
Generally a safe bet
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Stock orange are really good now, but slightly harder than the aftermarket orange. I found my kingpin setting to be the same with stock orange and aftermarket blue, whereas aftermarket orange I had to crank another 1/2-1 turn.
Reds were always weird for me. They felt as hard as blacks and my trucks would stay turning. I was at a shop a few months back and asked about hard bushings for Aces and the employee, who has no knowledge of numbers or math, took the reds out and said they were probably the hardest thing the shop had.
That's sad. Skate shops and their employees need to be able to provide that kind of info and service if they want a snowballs chance in hell of surviving these days.
I don't think this is the case at all.
I mean unless you can provide a superior experience IDK how you can compete with the big guys. Because you certainly can't do it on price and hope to keep the doors open.
I'm not saying every shop employee should know the entire indy bushing duro/color chart.
But they should understand that higher duro means harder and lower means softer.
Should at least be able to vaguely describe how most components will affect your setup.
Again, not on the level of Paul Schmitt and his fucking protractor/caliper defined setups, but you should def be able to expect an employee to point you in the right direction and give you a basic description of the goods they are selling.
If you carry enough relevant brands and don't have lots of dead inventory it's not that hard. Lots of shops I've been to have employees that basically only know about what they ride and what's trendy and that's fine. They also had some brand limitations but moved everything they sold.
The particular shop I mentioned above also has a large screen printing operation. They sell an insane amount of their shop decks and screen for other shops. Mostly carry relevant brands other locals don't have and their inventory is pretty alright and covers all spectrums of riders. The stuff sells itself as long as it exists. The employees are nice, just not as big of nerds as we are.
And the kid was right in my experience the reds are pretty tough. The shop also has stock of Ace dual euro prototype bushings.
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I'm one of those sickos that skates 159s with kreper kingpin. I'm addicted to 2003 skate gimmicks
isnt the kreeper pin technically the lowest profile IKP option? like it gives you more clearance than any other?
I havent fucked with IKP much, but i thought this was the case after reading on here some
Yeah it's very low profile. I personally love it as someone who does a lot of disasters and feebles
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I'm one of those sickos that skates 159s with kreper kingpin. I'm addicted to 2003 skate gimmicks
isnt the kreeper pin technically the lowest profile IKP option? like it gives you more clearance than any other?
I havent fucked with IKP much, but i thought this was the case after reading on here some
Yeah it's very low profile. I personally love it as someone who does a lot of disasters and feebles
I tried the krux ikp on some older aces a while back. After the jb weld around the nut broke the second time i just threw them out and was over it. Even as someone who fucks with their setup a lot it just frustrated me.
Might give the indy ikps a shot next time i need new trucks though. As long as they're still being made and dont end up having any huge issues.
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
Indy hollows or indy forged hollows.
The forged will be SLIGHTLY lower (53.5mm vs 55mm) and lighter than the standard hollows. but still no where near a venture low.
id get an 8.25 or 8.5 deck, whichever feels most comfortable and just get the the same width trucks. 144s for 8.25 and 149s for 8.5
some 54mm wheels
and you have a super standard "all around" setup
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
I'd go 149 Indy Hollow Forged. Forged are a little lower - and you can always run a small riser to get them back up to standards height. The pop with the forged baseplate is a bit more snappy. The hollow forged are a good middle-weight. Lots of aftermarket bushing durometers to adjust the stability - don't be scared to mix durometers for top and bottom bushings.
Or, Thunder Team Hollows. A little more snappy than Indy, a little lighter, a little lower. Not as surfy and they don't grind curbs quite as well (less surface area front to back - there is just less metal there, which is why they are lighter), but still a completely solid truck.
Either truck on an 8.38-8.5 with a 14.25-14.38 wheelbase and 54mm wheels would be a solid all rounder.
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
I'd go 149 Indy Hollow Forged. Forged are a little lower - and you can always run a small riser to get them back up to standards height. The pop with the forged baseplate is a bit more snappy. The hollow forged are a good middle-weight. Lots of aftermarket bushing durometers to adjust the stability - don't be scared to mix durometers for top and bottom bushings.
Or, Thunder Team Hollows. A little more snappy than Indy, a little lighter, a little lower. Not as surfy and they don't grind curbs quite as well (less surface area front to back - there is just less metal there, which is why they are lighter), but still a completely solid truck.
Either truck on an 8.38-8.5 with a 14.25-14.38 wheelbase would be a solid all rounder.
Yea, was going to say that i personally prefer 149s on 8.25 - 8.5 but i know a lot of people just want the same width trucks/decks
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
I'd go 149 Indy Hollow Forged. Forged are a little lower - and you can always run a small riser to get them back up to standards height. The pop with the forged baseplate is a bit more snappy. The hollow forged are a good middle-weight. Lots of aftermarket bushing durometers to adjust the stability - don't be scared to mix durometers for top and bottom bushings.
Or, Thunder Team Hollows. A little more snappy than Indy, a little lighter, a little lower. Not as surfy and they don't grind curbs quite as well (less surface area front to back - there is just less metal there, which is why they are lighter), but still a completely solid truck.
Either truck on an 8.38-8.5 with a 14.25-14.38 wheelbase would be a solid all rounder.
Yea, was going to say that i personally prefer 149s on 8.25 - 8.5 but i know a lot of people just want the same width trucks/decks
I’m a shrimp, so I wasn’t thinking about going any bigger than an 8. An 8.25 to me feels like what a 8.75 would feel to others haha. I appreciate the helpful info. I think going with faithful Indy’s might be the ticket.
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I’m a shrimp, so I wasn’t thinking about going any bigger than an 8. An 8.25 to me feels like what a 8.75 would feel to others haha. I appreciate the helpful info. I think going with faithful Indy’s might be the ticket.
Then I would do the forged baseplate. Others may disagree, but I find that the 55mm tall standards are good on 149s and up and can go either way on 144s - but 139s feel too tall for me with the cast. And I'd scale the wheels down to a 52/53 on an 8.
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I’m a shrimp, so I wasn’t thinking about going any bigger than an 8. An 8.25 to me feels like what a 8.75 would feel to others haha. I appreciate the helpful info. I think going with faithful Indy’s might be the ticket.
Then I would do the forged baseplate. Others may disagree, but I find that the 55mm tall standards are good on 149s and up and can go either way on 144s - but 139s feel too tall for me with the cast. And I'd scale the wheels down to a 52/53 on an 8.
8inch x 14.25 wheelbase, forged hollow 139's. 53 inch conicals. I think that's gonna suit me the best.
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
I'd go 149 Indy Hollow Forged. Forged are a little lower - and you can always run a small riser to get them back up to standards height. The pop with the forged baseplate is a bit more snappy. The hollow forged are a good middle-weight. Lots of aftermarket bushing durometers to adjust the stability - don't be scared to mix durometers for top and bottom bushings.
Or, Thunder Team Hollows. A little more snappy than Indy, a little lighter, a little lower. Not as surfy and they don't grind curbs quite as well (less surface area front to back - there is just less metal there, which is why they are lighter), but still a completely solid truck.
Either truck on an 8.38-8.5 with a 14.25-14.38 wheelbase would be a solid all rounder.
Yea, was going to say that i personally prefer 149s on 8.25 - 8.5 but i know a lot of people just want the same width trucks/decks
I’m a shrimp, so I wasn’t thinking about going any bigger than an 8. An 8.25 to me feels like what a 8.75 would feel to others haha. I appreciate the helpful info. I think going with faithful Indy’s might be the ticket.
Shoe size? Height?
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
I'd go 149 Indy Hollow Forged. Forged are a little lower - and you can always run a small riser to get them back up to standards height. The pop with the forged baseplate is a bit more snappy. The hollow forged are a good middle-weight. Lots of aftermarket bushing durometers to adjust the stability - don't be scared to mix durometers for top and bottom bushings.
Or, Thunder Team Hollows. A little more snappy than Indy, a little lighter, a little lower. Not as surfy and they don't grind curbs quite as well (less surface area front to back - there is just less metal there, which is why they are lighter), but still a completely solid truck.
Either truck on an 8.38-8.5 with a 14.25-14.38 wheelbase would be a solid all rounder.
Yea, was going to say that i personally prefer 149s on 8.25 - 8.5 but i know a lot of people just want the same width trucks/decks
I’m a shrimp, so I wasn’t thinking about going any bigger than an 8. An 8.25 to me feels like what a 8.75 would feel to others haha. I appreciate the helpful info. I think going with faithful Indy’s might be the ticket.
Shoe size? Height?
5'5 on a good day. Shoes: 7
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
I'd go 149 Indy Hollow Forged. Forged are a little lower - and you can always run a small riser to get them back up to standards height. The pop with the forged baseplate is a bit more snappy. The hollow forged are a good middle-weight. Lots of aftermarket bushing durometers to adjust the stability - don't be scared to mix durometers for top and bottom bushings.
Or, Thunder Team Hollows. A little more snappy than Indy, a little lighter, a little lower. Not as surfy and they don't grind curbs quite as well (less surface area front to back - there is just less metal there, which is why they are lighter), but still a completely solid truck.
Either truck on an 8.38-8.5 with a 14.25-14.38 wheelbase would be a solid all rounder.
Yea, was going to say that i personally prefer 149s on 8.25 - 8.5 but i know a lot of people just want the same width trucks/decks
I’m a shrimp, so I wasn’t thinking about going any bigger than an 8. An 8.25 to me feels like what a 8.75 would feel to others haha. I appreciate the helpful info. I think going with faithful Indy’s might be the ticket.
Shoe size? Height?
5'5 on a good day. Shoes: 7
Ah ok that makes sense. I'd still recommend the 144's even on an 8. 139's are so narrow and squirrely.
They make 8.18 width decks as well if you wanted to venture over 8 inch, but i def wouldnt go ANY smaller than 8.
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Yeah, a part of me wants to flip my board and the other part of me wants to embrace aging and do slappys. 8 seems like a happy medium, haha.
I do remember 139's feeling squirrely as all hell several years ago. Boards with longer wheelbases helped it feel more stable though.
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Yeah, a part of me wants to flip my board and the other part of me wants to embrace aging and do slappys. 8 seems like a happy medium, haha.
I do remember 139's feeling squirrely as all hell several years ago. Boards with longer wheelbases helped it feel more stable though.
Don't let equipment madness stop you from aging gracefully, doing slappies AND flip tricks. It is very fucking possible You got this.
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Yeah, a part of me wants to flip my board and the other part of me wants to embrace aging and do slappys. 8 seems like a happy medium, haha.
I do remember 139's feeling squirrely as all hell several years ago. Boards with longer wheelbases helped it feel more stable though.
Don't let equipment madness stop you from aging gracefully, doing slappies AND flip tricks. It is very fucking possible You got this.
Very well said
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Yeah, a part of me wants to flip my board and the other part of me wants to embrace aging and do slappys. 8 seems like a happy medium, haha.
I do remember 139's feeling squirrely as all hell several years ago. Boards with longer wheelbases helped it feel more stable though.
Most 8's have the same WB as a lot of 8.25s with only slightly smaller kicks so you may not notice the difference too much. As an old dude that got back into skating I started on an 8 and have gone as large as 8.5 at times. I think you'll find that 8-8.25 start to really feel very similar in terms of width and you will like the extra room and stability of 144s. I have ridden standard and forged 139s and didn't really notice a difference going to 144. You could also just stack 3 washers on the inside of 139s and have an 8.125 wheel width truck.
My first setup back was an 8.5 Polar on 149s and I fucking hated it. I went to the shop and grabbed a Polar 8 w/ 14.25 and some forged hollow 149's with 52 Classics and rode that and it was night/day. I actually rode 8-8.125 mostly until the pandemic and now I can't go back to something that small, but it will give you a good foundation to pursue the kind of skating that gets you stoked in your older age.
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boards nowadays commonly have longer wheel bases than probably what you skated back then, so sticking with 8" trucks would still work well. I just sent up 144 mindy's on an 8.25 and I'm sure i'll skate it ok but it feels like a beast.
144 raws on an 8.25 board will feel like a vert set up for you IMO. I'd go 148 Thunders or on an 8.125 or 139's on an 8.125. Ease into it......
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I'd second (3rd?) the 8.18/8.125 deck with 144/148 trucks. Not too small, not too big.
I just bumped to an 8.7 up from 8.5 (14.25"WB) with indy...not sure what's going on but everything feels too small and tight with a 14.25" WB with indys; 8.7 has a 14.5", big for me...not sure what to throw on it truckwise....(8.5" over trucks). Either Indy or Royal or Tensor ATGs...pretty sure I'd feel like manning a boat if I threw thunders on it.
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Me to skate shop: ‘yes….I need the number two grit sheet of mob….I’ll be back quarterly….PS… can I have a sticker’?
Wasn’t the sheet number debunked as it being relative to grit ratio?
Indy yellow are hard as fuck, on par with bones hards. I mixed yellow tops and orange bottoms, was a tough Break in period and the yellows never felt like they gave at all.
Re Mob grip tape number - yes I think someone said it was which line it came from, as in they have half a dozen lines of production, line 1, line 2, line 3, etc.
The fifty sheets in the last box I got from a distro all had different numbers but were all identical in grit.
Maybe once it was something else, but now it is not.
Normal Mob or that Ultra or whatever it is, just like Jessup, normal and then rip you to shreds rough.
As for the Indy 96 yellow bushings, when they are broken in, they are not that hard and felt more like a stiff older stock bushing (as per some I got from a guy who destroys bushings on the regular), but from new they are ridiculous (as you said) and not anything I find comfortable.
Old stocks were harder than they are now?
They are referring to aftermarket bushings not the stock ones. The Indy gold bushings are 90a
Those new aftermarket yellow 96s seemed like they were still way harder than any Indy stock bushings (orange / gold or whatever colour comes in pro edition trucks - white, black, red, blue, green, etc), but not by much when compared to some of the various stock Indy bushings from earlier stages, or at least that is what I was trying to convey.
The direct comparison with old Indy stock bushings is often more difficult as they have been sitting in trucks for ten or twenty years too, when compared to the fairly new sets that have not cured over time like the old ones have, but I feel like other people may or may not have their own experiences to fall back on.
Either way Indy stock bushings would fall apart and crumble more than just crush down or bounce back, but the new ones are also a different formula now as well. Even between the Stage 11 bushings, the new more translucent ones with the concentric circles on them are way more like true 90 duro and feel very similar to current stock Thunder and Venture bushings when you use a crush test (big pair of grips or pliers) but the older Stage 11 ones, that were a more bright solid orange colour, were firmer than the current bushings but still a lot softer than the previous stage bushings too, someone saying that the old Indy bushings used to be about 94 duro when measured with one of those true durometer machines (aka The Professor or someone I think).
The old ones were very stiff right from go, often felt way too hard and if you ever took a brand new truck apart, you could almost never get it back together without a lot of effort or putting in used bushings or leaving out a washer. Had so many struggles with them, which is also the main reason so many people swapped them out right away and most people said they loved the trucks but hated the bushings in them, at least for the Stage 9 trucks that we had in the shop from 2003 or so.
Whatever the experience with them, some people still loved them and quite a few of the old sets I have with nicely broken in bushings still work well enough, but from new they were somewhat unbearable and took a while to wear in nicely.
Also the old aftermarket bushings from the Stage 9 era (2000s) used to come in red / soft 92, orange / medium 94 and black / hard 96 and all of those were a totally different urethane compound than stock bushings, also being way stiffer than anything else, which is why I used to get the red ones and cut them down, but then when they brought out the low heads, I found they worked great in the normal trucks, at least way better than the normal height bushings did, for how they could turn more easily but were still a bit stiffer than some other really soft bushings on the market at the time.
The current options for trucks, bushings and versatility are still better than anything we had in the past, but even the super hard bushings now don't seem half as hard as the older ones from the 2000s.
I don't doubt others may have had different experiences, so it is interesting to hear if anyone else recalls things differently to my own memories or views.
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Any stock bushing, regardless of color, is 90a,
Aftermarket super hard yellows are very different.
WTF are indy gold bushings?
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As someone who is trying to get back into skating after years off of the board, I’m looking for some advice. What do you feel is the best all around truck? I used to either ride Indy hollows or venture lows. The ventures felt too low though.
I’m looking for something light but not feather light. I would mostly be skating curbs, small ledges and banks. Maybe some transition. I like a solid and snappy pop feel. Stability is crucial since I’ll be trying to relearn everything. Thanks in advance.
I'd go 149 Indy Hollow Forged. Forged are a little lower - and you can always run a small riser to get them back up to standards height. The pop with the forged baseplate is a bit more snappy. The hollow forged are a good middle-weight. Lots of aftermarket bushing durometers to adjust the stability - don't be scared to mix durometers for top and bottom bushings.
Or, Thunder Team Hollows. A little more snappy than Indy, a little lighter, a little lower. Not as surfy and they don't grind curbs quite as well (less surface area front to back - there is just less metal there, which is why they are lighter), but still a completely solid truck.
Either truck on an 8.38-8.5 with a 14.25-14.38 wheelbase would be a solid all rounder.
Yea, was going to say that i personally prefer 149s on 8.25 - 8.5 but i know a lot of people just want the same width trucks/decks
I’m a shrimp, so I wasn’t thinking about going any bigger than an 8. An 8.25 to me feels like what a 8.75 would feel to others haha. I appreciate the helpful info. I think going with faithful Indy’s might be the ticket.
Just get an ~8” and standard Indys 139 or 144 and you’ll be fine. They’re a great truck and I think they’ll feel familiar to anyone who has seriously skated before.
As others have said, I’d advise you not to spend too much time overthinking it. Pick something familiar and solid and practice with that as much as you can.
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Any stock bushing, regardless of color, is 90a,
Aftermarket super hard yellows are very different.
WTF are indy gold bushings?
I think, more than anything people are just meaning / saying the stock ones, given on this last page some people say yellow, some say gold, but they mean the same thing.
Yes, the current stock bushings, regardless of colour are all 90 duro.
Stock bushings have become way softer over the years, eg Venture used to have 98 purple / red stock bushings too, whereas now they are 90, but that is another story / for another thread.
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I'd second (3rd?) the 8.18/8.125 deck with 144/148 trucks. Not too small, not too big.
I just bumped to an 8.7 up from 8.5 (14.25"WB) with indy...not sure what's going on but everything feels too small and tight with a 14.25" WB with indys; 8.7 has a 14.5", big for me...not sure what to throw on it truckwise....(8.5" over trucks). Either Indy or Royal or Tensor ATGs...pretty sure I'd feel like manning a boat if I threw thunders on it.
I still haven’t come to terms with the graphic on that deck. Is it worth putting up with? And the squareness of the kicks? I have had a nose like that, but not a tail.
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I'd second (3rd?) the 8.18/8.125 deck with 144/148 trucks. Not too small, not too big.
I just bumped to an 8.7 up from 8.5 (14.25"WB) with indy...not sure what's going on but everything feels too small and tight with a 14.25" WB with indys; 8.7 has a 14.5", big for me...not sure what to throw on it truckwise....(8.5" over trucks). Either Indy or Royal or Tensor ATGs...pretty sure I'd feel like manning a boat if I threw thunders on it.
I really liked my 8.38/14.5 DLX on Thunders actually- Busenitz and Simon Jensen skate that combo among others. My buddy had an 8.5/14.5 BBS generic that felt great on 149 Team Hollows. I was surprised because it is "long" on paper.
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I'd second (3rd?) the 8.18/8.125 deck with 144/148 trucks. Not too small, not too big.
I just bumped to an 8.7 up from 8.5 (14.25"WB) with indy...not sure what's going on but everything feels too small and tight with a 14.25" WB with indys; 8.7 has a 14.5", big for me...not sure what to throw on it truckwise....(8.5" over trucks). Either Indy or Royal or Tensor ATGs...pretty sure I'd feel like manning a boat if I threw thunders on it.
I really liked my 8.38/14.5 DLX on Thunders actually- Busenitz and Simon Jensen skate that combo among others. My buddy had an 8.5/14.5 BBS generic that felt great on 149 Team Hollows. I was surprised because it is "long" on paper.
Intersting, I thought Dennis was on the 8.25/147 trip but guess he sized up? Is this confirmed by Dennis ("my ride" or interview, comment, Thunder post etc) or just from the footy that you've seen. Not denying, just curious.
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I had been emailing with Jim and someone I know skates with Dennis on occasion. So, like a weirdo I asked. He rides the 8.38 Dreamer on 148s with whatever wheels. Occasionally he will also ride the 8.38 Full SE and almost always rides production decks not heat transferred custom shapes like lots of the team. Often times he will walk into a shop and pay full resale if he doesn't have one of a shape he wants. If you watch that Thunder part of him recently you can see his setup well.
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I had been emailing with Jim and someone I know skates with Dennis on occasion. So, like a weirdo I asked. He rides the 8.38 Dreamer on 148s with whatever wheels. Occasionally he will also ride the 8.38 Full SE and almost always rides production decks not heat transferred custom shapes like lots of the team. Often times he will walk into a shop and pay full resale if he doesn't have one of a shape he wants. If you watch that Thunder part of him recently you can see his setup well.
Cool, interesting, thanks. I knew he sized up from 8.18 to 8.25 around Away Days, but didn't realise he'd gone up again. Guess I've been sleeping on Dennis a bit and didn't realise he'd put anything out in the past few years, just IG stuff which I don't really follow....what Thunder part are you referring too? Guess I missed it.
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https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjy4-OhnbH8AhX_HzQIHRBVCpoQwqsBegQICRAF&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D84RtglWPDzc&usg=AOvVaw0QJmZeNK9u127NWvAcPUg2
Most of his footy the last few years is on stock 8.38 Full SE and 8.38 Dreamer graphics.
Anyways, back to Indy.
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Appropriate for Sale thread, but also here.
Skate Warehouse (you can pay with Venmo and PayPal to avoid CC data breach)
Has Indy S11 Standard for $35 a set right now! That's after the site wide 20% of from the $43 Daily Dose price
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/dailydose.html
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For anyone buying those burgundy Indys, there's already a thread about removing paint from trucks.
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For anyone buying those burgundy Indys, there's already a thread about removing paint from trucks.
lol
Appropriate for Sale thread, but also here.
Skate Warehouse (you can pay with Venmo and PayPal to avoid CC data breach)
Has Indy S11 Standard for $35 a set right now! That's after the site wide 20% of from the $43 Daily Dose price
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/dailydose.html
ugh, i know not everyone has enough money to buy whatever skate gear they want but after only buying from real shops for a while now, the thought of buying from a big retailer makes me feel dirty. I guess if there is any time to buy from one of the big/bad guys it would be a sale so you know they're turning a smaller profit lol.
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The BTG stamp on the baseplate...we need a barf emoji on here.
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The BTG stamp on the baseplate...we need a barf emoji on here.
yea, pretty awful
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The BTG stamp on the baseplate...we need a barf emoji on here.
yea, pretty awful
I back it for the sole reason that it's probably making all the iron cross die-hardkunts even more salty :P Neg away salty bitches...that is, if you can find the time between rubbing one out on your 1313 reissues and posting.
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The BTG stamp on the baseplate...we need a barf emoji on here.
Showing up on forged baseplates too. https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Independent_S11_BTG_Summit_Forged_Hollow_Standard_Truck/descpage-INBTSTR.html
Primitive colab has the P logo on it
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Independent_Stage_11_Primitive_Mid_Truck/descpage-INPGMTR.html
I'm in the camp that I don't care. I have some with the cross, some blank, and would skate the BTG.
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The BTG stamp on the baseplate...we need a barf emoji on here.
Showing up on forged baseplates too. https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Independent_S11_BTG_Summit_Forged_Hollow_Standard_Truck/descpage-INBTSTR.html
Primitive colab has the P logo on it
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Independent_Stage_11_Primitive_Mid_Truck/descpage-INPGMTR.html
I'm in the camp that I don't care. I have some with the cross, some blank, and would skate the BTG.
I think the P logo is cool, wouldnt buy them personally but i think its a cool touch. I think they should do more special stuff there since they arent doing the cross anymore. Would be cool to see pros get a special engraving there or w/e. Either their initials or just something they like.
That "BTG" is just corny, not a fan.
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The BTG stamp on the baseplate...we need a barf emoji on here.
Showing up on forged baseplates too. https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Independent_S11_BTG_Summit_Forged_Hollow_Standard_Truck/descpage-INBTSTR.html
Primitive colab has the P logo on it
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Independent_Stage_11_Primitive_Mid_Truck/descpage-INPGMTR.html
I'm in the camp that I don't care. I have some with the cross, some blank, and would skate the BTG.
I think the P logo is cool, wouldnt buy them personally but i think its a cool touch. I think they should do more special stuff there since they arent doing the cross anymore. Would be cool to see pros get a special engraving there or w/e. Either their initials or just something they like.
That "BTG" is just corny, not a fan.
Special engraving there would be way cooler than some colored truck or something. Little picture on the truck kinda how thunder does and an engraving on the baseplate would be cool as hell
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Basically just bring back the salamanders and scimitars and then add like eightballs and shit to the Indy ones
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Hey, at least it's not "Built 2 Grind". A few extra points for using the actual word and not B2G although that should be a Baker throwback collab special edition.
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Basically just bring back the salamanders and scimitars and then add like eightballs and shit to the Indy ones
???
Hey, at least it's not "Built 2 Grind". A few extra points for using the actual word and not B2G although that should be a Baker throwback collab special edition.
True, and true.
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Basically just bring back the salamanders and scimitars and then add like eightballs and shit to the Indy ones
???
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Hey, at least it's not "Built 2 Grind". A few extra points for using the actual word and not B2G although that should be a Baker throwback collab special edition.
True, and true.
I was thinking about those Winkowski pro Indys that came out last year and how they kinda sat around and got discounted. I woulda been super down if they had an engraved eightball instead of a screened one on the baseplate.
The lizards and swords thing is just some of what Thunder had engraved on their baseplates during Stages 1 and 2
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Basically just bring back the salamanders and scimitars and then add like eightballs and shit to the Indy ones
???
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Hey, at least it's not "Built 2 Grind". A few extra points for using the actual word and not B2G although that should be a Baker throwback collab special edition.
True, and true.
The lizards and swords thing is just some of what Thunder had engraved on their baseplates during Stages 1 and 2
Ah ok, that's what i was questioning.
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Our lord and savior Nik Stain rides 149 standards btw if anyone was wondering. Confirmed through dm.
Also rides my preferred wheel 56mm 99a classic.
I'm a fucking dork.
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Our lord and savior Nik Stain rides 149 standards btw if anyone was wondering. Confirmed through dm.
Also rides my preferred wheel 56mm 99a classic.
I'm a fucking dork.
I actually posted this question in the Hockey X thread. It looked like he mighta been on 159s. Maybe it was the wheels though. Appreciate the info
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Christ, his shape is mega fucking steep too I can't imagine how bored I would get waiting for the tail to hit the ground after I pop.
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Christ, his shape is mega fucking steep too I can't imagine how bored I would get waiting for the tail to hit the ground after I pop.
Lol
Nik Stain overcomes geometry with pure strength
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I wonder which is the mellower set up 2023 street versus 2003 vert…..board width/truck size/wheel size….
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Christ, his shape is mega fucking steep too I can't imagine how bored I would get waiting for the tail to hit the ground after I pop.
Is his board the 8.44 shape 2? I picked that one up over Christmas, haven’t set it up yet though, looking to it though (but I’ll probably go forged or I’ll struggle to flip it).
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I wonder which is the mellower set up 2023 street versus 2003 vert…..board width/truck size/wheel size….
Street setups now are probably larger on average than 2003 vert setups. In every dimm except wheel size.
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Christ, his shape is mega fucking steep too I can't imagine how bored I would get waiting for the tail to hit the ground after I pop.
Yah it's the 8.44 shape 2. I had it once and didn't like it and gave it away. I got another on a hook up and it was even steeper than the first. Not joking if I laid it over a normal bbs deck there was like a 1" gap between the tips of the nose.
Is his board the 8.44 shape 2? I picked that one up over Christmas, haven’t set it up yet though, looking to it though (but I’ll probably go forged or I’ll struggle to flip it).
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Christ, his shape is mega fucking steep too I can't imagine how bored I would get waiting for the tail to hit the ground after I pop.
Is his board the 8.44 shape 2? I picked that one up over Christmas, haven’t set it up yet though, looking to it though (but I’ll probably go forged or I’ll struggle to flip it).
Yah it's the 8.44 shape 2. I had it once and didn't like it and gave it away. I got another on a hook up and it was even steeper than the first. Not joking if I laid it over a normal bbs deck there was like a 1" gap between the tips of the nose.
Wow, that's actually nuts, thanks for the heads up! I picked it up really cheap online, just to try something different, but sounds like it's way way different, at least I know what I'm in for now. I was gonna go Indy (like Nik), but sounds like I'll need Venture Lo's to make it skatable for me!!
On a seperate note, I setup a kinda 94ish type ride (for a bit of nostalgia) with Indy Ti 129 on a 7.875 with 40s - and damn, it's all kinds of fun - channeling Goldfish era Rick Howard (just without the talent, tricks or style...) 8)
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Christ, his shape is mega fucking steep too I can't imagine how bored I would get waiting for the tail to hit the ground after I pop.
Is his board the 8.44 shape 2? I picked that one up over Christmas, haven’t set it up yet though, looking to it though (but I’ll probably go forged or I’ll struggle to flip it).
Yah it's the 8.44 shape 2. I had it once and didn't like it and gave it away. I got another on a hook up and it was even steeper than the first. Not joking if I laid it over a normal bbs deck there was like a 1" gap between the tips of the nose.
Wow, that's actually nuts, thanks for the heads up! I picked it up really cheap online, just to try something different, but sounds like it's way way different, at least I know what I'm in for now.
Fwiw I bought this deck during the Great FA Sale in order to use as a pool board and I think it has been great for this purpose. I’ve obviously tried skating street on it and it’s super comfy but flipping the deck is very difficult for me.
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That’s probably why he’s so good at manuals, has all that room to hold them.
Cast Indys give me ghost pop no matter the board. I’ll roll up to pop my board and just whiff. This is the one thing I don’t miss about Indys, and something I haven’t dealt with since switching to ace and venture, closer to the stage 10 height.
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That’s probably why he’s so good at manuals, has all that room to hold them.
Cast Indys give me ghost pop no matter the board. I’ll roll up to pop my board and just whiff. This is the one thing I don’t miss about Indys, and something I haven’t dealt with since switching to ace and venture, closer to the stage 10 height.
Same with me. I had countless unnecessary bails because of ghost pop. Never had that with Aces yet.
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Glad I am not the only one who struggles with cast indys. Tried the forged but they were too twitchy for me. I've thought about switching to ace but haven't pulled the trigger.
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Glad I am not the only one who struggles with cast indys. Tried the forged but they were too twitchy for me. I've thought about switching to ace but haven't pulled the trigger.
I don't find much difference in turn between cast and forged. The weight saving is worth it for me. I have some ace but they never pop right for me and heavy. Have them on a cruiser tho, that turn is so sick. They feel cool when landing stuff, more fun in some ways in that respect, just not as consistent, and I suck anyways so I need whatever I can get ha.
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I think it is just down to what you are used to skating, more than anything.
Same Indy trucks on a mellow board, everything works for me, then tried on a steeper board - ghost pop and had to change everything for how I skated, but back on a more mellow board, I felt like everything worked as it should for me.
If you are used to lower trucks, sure things are going to be weird, but that is also why I prefer to put DIY 2mm rubber risers under Thunder trucks to bring them up to a more "normal" height for what I prefer.
Everyone has their own preferences, so there is no right or wrong answer to which product is best overall, only what is best for each person, depending on what they like.
How a truck turns, how quickly or slowly it turns and other performance issues can be down to quite a few things, but the easiest thing to change with a set of trucks is in the bushings department, which is why I prefer a slightly harder bushing that is not tightened down as much, over a taller, softer more mushy bushing, that even if tightened down a bit, will more likely cause more issues with not being able to bounce back as quickly but will still turn a little too much, which would cause the "twitchy" feeling that some trucks give.
The most difficult thing is getting the right bushings, or the right mix of bushings, given some people prefer to mix and match hardness options, or shapes and sizes of bushings too.
This also contributes to kingpin / hanger clearance, wheelbite and can affect performance too, because some bushings that do not perform as they should, ie they do not bounce back to centre, will usually cause more problems for the skater in the long run.
Just a few things to consider anyway.
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what's up with those stage 4's they posted about on their instagram the other day? haven't really kept up to date on any of it but it doesn't look like there's been any mention of them since
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I feel like no one is riding 139s these days, I'm probably making a mistake trying to make use of my ancient stage 8 139s. I found they feel best on an 8.25, but they're still so tippy. Probably will split the quiver difference with 149s or 144s soon enough, I have 169s and 215s for vert.
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what's up with those stage 4's they posted about on their instagram the other day? haven't really kept up to date on any of it but it doesn't look like there's been any mention of them since
That IG post is the last we've seen.
Rumored to come in 8.378 and 8.6-7ish
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what's up with those stage 4's they posted about on their instagram the other day? haven't really kept up to date on any of it but it doesn't look like there's been any mention of them since
That IG post is the last we've seen.
Rumored to come in 8.378 and 8.6-7ish
exclusively?
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what's up with those stage 4's they posted about on their instagram the other day? haven't really kept up to date on any of it but it doesn't look like there's been any mention of them since
That IG post is the last we've seen.
Rumored to come in 8.378 and 8.6-7ish
Only thing they've for sure said was a no go was anything 144 and below, so far...
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what's up with those stage 4's they posted about on their instagram the other day? haven't really kept up to date on any of it but it doesn't look like there's been any mention of them since
That IG post is the last we've seen.
Rumored to come in 8.378 and 8.6-7ish
Only thing they've for sure said was a no go was anything 144 and below, so far...
well shit, i really wanted to try them if they had 139's but i guess it makes sense for them to be a more niche truck
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what's up with those stage 4's they posted about on their instagram the other day? haven't really kept up to date on any of it but it doesn't look like there's been any mention of them since
That IG post is the last we've seen.
Rumored to come in 8.378 and 8.6-7ish
Only thing they've for sure said was a no go was anything 144 and below, so far...
Well they’re targeting Ace, who makes a full run of sizes. My local shop sells 44s and 55s in nearly equal amounts, so it would seem there are a lot of would-be riders for this truck in the conventional size range.
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everyone will just call them stage 4’s…..but I will call them slimdys……
I know trackers did it with ‘full track’…’mid track’? Etc but maybe companies should start using words in describing widths….why use numbers…it’s just confusing.
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Speaking about ghost pop earlier regarding cast vs forged:
It's exactly why I alternate in buying standard, standard Hollow, and forged Hollow on a good sale. Because then, depending on the board, I can swap baseplates for height to offset the mellow or steepness of it. Polars, Zero, and Baker B2 need the forged Hollow baseplate, but my Black Label, TKF, and Isle work well standards or forged Hollow.
If anyone hasn't tried that, I suggest buying 2 sets: standards and forged hollows, then swap the baseplates (or the hangars for weight) to optimize your setup against your deck choice!
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Glad I am not the only one who struggles with cast indys. Tried the forged but they were too twitchy for me. I've thought about switching to ace but haven't pulled the trigger.
I don't find much difference in turn between cast and forged. The weight saving is worth it for me. I have some ace but they never pop right for me and heavy. Have them on a cruiser tho, that turn is so sick. They feel cool when landing stuff, more fun in some ways in that respect, just not as consistent, and I suck anyways so I need whatever I can get ha.
I really love the turn and classics weight isnt too bad. I never really had problem with the pop and if I do, I know it's my inconsistensy because I do less ollies and flips nowadays. Anyway, I do more cruising in summer and more ramps and tricks in winter (indoors).
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Speaking about ghost pop earlier regarding cast vs forged:
It's exactly why I alternate in buying standard, standard Hollow, and forged Hollow on a good sale. Because then, depending on the board, I can swap baseplates for height to offset the mellow or steepness of it. Polars, Zero, and Baker B2 need the forged Hollow baseplate, but my Black Label, TKF, and Isle work well standards or forged Hollow.
If anyone hasn't tried that, I suggest buying 2 sets: standards and forged hollows, then swap the baseplates (or the hangars for weight) to optimize your setup against your deck choice!
Yeah I can definitely see how that would work well.
Interesting options, for sure!
I normally don't buy anything other than standard for myself, but a few wider sets of second hand forged hollow baseplates with either hollow axles or ti axles give things a bit of a weight reduction for the 159 and 169 sized board setups that I put them on.
Fun changing things over and seeing what does work on some boards, that doesn't work on others too.
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everyone will just call them stage 4’s…..but I will call them slimdys……
I know trackers did it with ‘full track’…’mid track’? Etc but maybe companies should start using words in describing widths….why use numbers…it’s just confusing.
Lol
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Speaking about ghost pop earlier regarding cast vs forged:
It's exactly why I alternate in buying standard, standard Hollow, and forged Hollow on a good sale. Because then, depending on the board, I can swap baseplates for height to offset the mellow or steepness of it. Polars, Zero, and Baker B2 need the forged Hollow baseplate, but my Black Label, TKF, and Isle work well standards or forged Hollow.
If anyone hasn't tried that, I suggest buying 2 sets: standards and forged hollows, then swap the baseplates (or the hangars for weight) to optimize your setup against your deck choice!
Yeah I can definitely see how that would work well.
Interesting options, for sure!
I normally don't buy anything other than standard for myself, but a few wider sets of second hand forged hollow baseplates with either hollow axles or ti axles give things a bit of a weight reduction for the 159 and 169 sized board setups that I put them on.
Fun changing things over and seeing what does work on some boards, that doesn't work on others too.
Been loving 149 ti hangers on cast plates for a while now.
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How about this idea…..raw hanger, forged baseplate because of the increased swing weight helps your board flip better……
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I tried swapping plates but the pop feel from swapping was quite different for a number of tricks. I don't ghost pop with many tricks on Indy's, but I'd say some tricks don't level out as well and I find the nollie pop a bit heavy and sluggish although the pop yield is great. That's why I can see lots of people liking Ventures- still great pop yield, but it's a bit lighter.
I hated cast Indy on a steeper board. It's weird but I had a DLX II I didn't like on cast Indy and it was great on Thunder cast (DLX 8.38). The same shape, but a mellow Baker, was one of my favorite setups of the last year on cast Indy.
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How about this idea…..raw hanger, forged baseplate because of the increased swing weight helps your board flip better……
I checked out a book of Indy ads at my local and sure enough they used to sell standard hangers on forged plates.
I definitely agree with the insight that ghost pop is a multi dimensional problem. It's the reason I go with 54mm wheels max. I am definitely curious about 8.75 decks with mellow kicks but that's for another thread. It's not always a problem for me actually, specifically seems to happen when I hit a pyramid or something at speed.
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Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
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Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
That's so good!
Thanks for posting.
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Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
nice picture diagram man!
have a gnar
People used to have to grind their KP after swapping to shorter top bushings for more clearance, the IKP baseplate saves you that step.
We're evolving.
-
Expand Quote
Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
nice picture diagram man!
have a gnar
People used to have to grind their KP after swapping to shorter top bushings for more clearance, the IKP baseplate saves you that step.
We're evolving.
Amazing results. Question: Is the IKP baseplate the same as an Inverted Mid baseplate/same KP clearance? Do either affect overall truck/axel height?
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Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
nice picture diagram man!
have a gnar
People used to have to grind their KP after swapping to shorter top bushings for more clearance, the IKP baseplate saves you that step.
We're evolving.
Amazing results. Question: Is the IKP baseplate the same as an Inverted Mid baseplate/same KP clearance? Do either affect overall truck/axel height?
I believe all Indy baseplates are compatible whether they’re IKP or traditional. The Mid hanger works fine on traditional kingpin baseplates (Standard Hollow for me) and vice versa, including the 215/Stage IV design.
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Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
nice picture diagram man!
have a gnar
People used to have to grind their KP after swapping to shorter top bushings for more clearance, the IKP baseplate saves you that step.
We're evolving.
Amazing results. Question: Is the IKP baseplate the same as an Inverted Mid baseplate/same KP clearance? Do either affect overall truck/axel height?
I believe all Indy baseplates are compatible whether they’re IKP or traditional. The Mid hanger works fine on traditional kingpin baseplates (Standard Hollow for me) and vice versa, including the 215/Stage IV design.
Pretty sure this is correct.
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Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
nice picture diagram man!
have a gnar
People used to have to grind their KP after swapping to shorter top bushings for more clearance, the IKP baseplate saves you that step.
We're evolving.
Amazing results. Question: Is the IKP baseplate the same as an Inverted Mid baseplate/same KP clearance? Do either affect overall truck/axel height?
I believe all Indy baseplates are compatible whether they’re IKP or traditional. The Mid hanger works fine on traditional kingpin baseplates (Standard Hollow for me) and vice versa, including the 215/Stage IV design.
Pretty sure this is correct.
What I meant to ask was: Are the IKP and Inverted Mid baseplates one-in-the-same? Will I achieve the same result using either? Do they share the same KP clearance(since they share a similarly low-profile inverted kingpin)?
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Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
nice picture diagram man!
have a gnar
People used to have to grind their KP after swapping to shorter top bushings for more clearance, the IKP baseplate saves you that step.
We're evolving.
Amazing results. Question: Is the IKP baseplate the same as an Inverted Mid baseplate/same KP clearance? Do either affect overall truck/axel height?
I believe all Indy baseplates are compatible whether they’re IKP or traditional. The Mid hanger works fine on traditional kingpin baseplates (Standard Hollow for me) and vice versa, including the 215/Stage IV design.
Pretty sure this is correct.
What I meant to ask was: Are the IKP and Inverted Mid baseplates one-in-the-same? Will I achieve the same result using either? Do they share the same KP clearance(since they share a similarly low-profile inverted kingpin)?
They are the same. The mid height comes from the hanger, not the IKP baseplate set.
I like the IKP baseplate set but personally I couldn't get my truck tightness to stay the same, after a bit of time my trucks would always feel looser than what I set them to. I used stock Indy 90a, aftermarket Indy 92a, and Bones Mediums which all resulted in this effect.
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I feel like no one is riding 139s these days, I'm probably making a mistake trying to make use of my ancient stage 8 139s. I found they feel best on an 8.25, but they're still so tippy. Probably will split the quiver difference with 149s or 144s soon enough, I have 169s and 215s for vert.
that’s what I’m skating rn. Indy stage 8 136’s. they are definitely “”tippy” trucks. most trucks from 20+ years ago didn’t really turn like modern trucks do. not to mention the top bushing on stage 8’s is considerably taller than current Indy bushings.
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I feel like no one is riding 139s these days, I'm probably making a mistake trying to make use of my ancient stage 8 139s. I found they feel best on an 8.25, but they're still so tippy. Probably will split the quiver difference with 149s or 144s soon enough, I have 169s and 215s for vert.
that’s what I’m skating rn. Indy stage 8 136’s. they are definitely “”tippy” trucks. most trucks from 20+ years ago didn’t really turn like modern trucks do. not to mention the top bushing on stage 8’s is considerably taller than current Indy bushings.
I havent ridden a truck under 8.25 (cruisers/polarizers aside) in like 15-16 years.
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I think 139 is a good size….Indy’s are inherently beefy and on an 8” or 8.125 is still a nimble set up but stable enough to land on. More truck helps grinding, but that’s about it.
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I think 139 is a good size….Indy’s are inherently beefy and on an 8” or 8.125 is still a nimble set up but stable enough to land on. More truck helps grinding, but that’s about it.
Wider trucks are more stable as well, wider/slower turn. Some would argue this is a con, but i feel much more confident on 149s than even 144s.
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Expand Quote
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Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
nice picture diagram man!
have a gnar
People used to have to grind their KP after swapping to shorter top bushings for more clearance, the IKP baseplate saves you that step.
We're evolving.
Amazing results. Question: Is the IKP baseplate the same as an Inverted Mid baseplate/same KP clearance? Do either affect overall truck/axel height?
I believe all Indy baseplates are compatible whether they’re IKP or traditional. The Mid hanger works fine on traditional kingpin baseplates (Standard Hollow for me) and vice versa, including the 215/Stage IV design.
Pretty sure this is correct.
What I meant to ask was: Are the IKP and Inverted Mid baseplates one-in-the-same? Will I achieve the same result using either? Do they share the same KP clearance(since they share a similarly low-profile inverted kingpin)?
They are the same. The mid height comes from the hanger, not the IKP baseplate set.
I like the IKP baseplate set but personally I couldn't get my truck tightness to stay the same, after a bit of time my trucks would always feel looser than what I set them to. I used stock Indy 90a, aftermarket Indy 92a, and Bones Mediums which all resulted in this effect.
Did you have the IKP in to full lock, or somewhere in between?
I found that when it was full lock it stayed put, but when not all the way in, it moved.
The only down side is the trucks are at a set bushing point, which is fine if you skate them like that, but if you needed them tighter, there is no where to go, or looser, then they would move somewhat as you said.
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Expand Quote
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Here's my take on indy IKP plates and new "stage 4" 215s.
I've replaced stock baseplate with new IKP and set up "short" top bushing (old aftermarket indy mid bushing).
Kingpin clearence now is HUGE.
PS
Have some troubles before with stock baseplate on a curbs - stucking on kingpin and always have a nut loosening.
Picture with before/after.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpyKVN2/image.png) (https://ibb.co/QpyKVN2)
nice picture diagram man!
have a gnar
People used to have to grind their KP after swapping to shorter top bushings for more clearance, the IKP baseplate saves you that step.
We're evolving.
Amazing results. Question: Is the IKP baseplate the same as an Inverted Mid baseplate/same KP clearance? Do either affect overall truck/axel height?
I believe all Indy baseplates are compatible whether they’re IKP or traditional. The Mid hanger works fine on traditional kingpin baseplates (Standard Hollow for me) and vice versa, including the 215/Stage IV design.
Pretty sure this is correct.
What I meant to ask was: Are the IKP and Inverted Mid baseplates one-in-the-same? Will I achieve the same result using either? Do they share the same KP clearance(since they share a similarly low-profile inverted kingpin)?
They are the same. The mid height comes from the hanger, not the IKP baseplate set.
I like the IKP baseplate set but personally I couldn't get my truck tightness to stay the same, after a bit of time my trucks would always feel looser than what I set them to. I used stock Indy 90a, aftermarket Indy 92a, and Bones Mediums which all resulted in this effect.
Did you have the IKP in to full lock, or somewhere in between?
I found that when it was full lock it stayed put, but when not all the way in, it moved.
The only down side is the trucks are at a set bushing point, which is fine if you skate them like that, but if you needed them tighter, there is no where to go, or looser, then they would move somewhat as you said.
I think somewhere in between on the tighter side. Haven't used them in a while so I don't quite remember.
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Damn, I thought Indy solved that ikp issue.
I'm not sure I'll ever try them if they can't figure out how to prevent that.
I'm way too particular about my truck tightness. I'm the type of dude to go back and forth between slight adjustments in the range of half a turn or less.
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I think 139 is a good size….Indy’s are inherently beefy and on an 8” or 8.125 is still a nimble set up but stable enough to land on. More truck helps grinding, but that’s about it.
Reynolds still skates 139s.
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I think 139 is a good size….Indy’s are inherently beefy and on an 8” or 8.125 is still a nimble set up but stable enough to land on. More truck helps grinding, but that’s about it.
Reynolds still skates 139s.
Does he really? Even after the 144s came out.
Him and Ishod both on the magic carpet.
Ellington too
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Yup, he's said it multiple times too- just can't do wide trucks. In my very non-rigorous recollection of setup videos and shit, far more pros magic carpet than Hot Rod and even some hot rodders like Foy are coming back to being even with deck width.
I have noticed in his IG stories Reynolds is off the mids too
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I think 139 is a good size….Indy’s are inherently beefy and on an 8” or 8.125 is still a nimble set up but stable enough to land on. More truck helps grinding, but that’s about it.
Reynolds still skates 139s.
Does he really? Even after the 144s came out.
Him and Ishod both on the magic carpet.
Ellington too
I think he's on an 8", right? So fits perfectly.
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Reynolds rides the 8.25 and 8.475 mostly and sometimes goes down to 8.125. I found some post of him filming a manual on something insanely tall and in the comments someone asked him and he says he goes smaller for popping up or over huge things because "it's less to get up".
As for the Indy IKP self-loosening, my replacement plates from Indy still had that problem which is why I gave up on them. Maybe it's better now. I really wanted to like the mids
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In the comments of one of his more recent IG posts Reynolds said he keeps switching between 139 and 144 now.
**edit
His post on December 14
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Oh damn, interesting. It's been many months since I have invested much time in pro setup madness but good to see he might be losing his somewhat compared to what it was.
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Are IKPs just an unsolvable mystery of the universe or something?
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I have found that for mitigating the 139s tipiness, swapping the indy bushings for bones mediums helps them not be as stiff since they have more give but retain a decent return to center feel. Still not as planted feeling as larger trucks, but at least they carve and turn more naturally with that bushing swap, to me at least.
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I have found that for mitigating the 139s tipiness, swapping the indy bushings for bones mediums helps them not be as stiff since they have more give but retain a decent return to center feel. Still not as planted feeling as larger trucks, but at least they carve and turn more naturally with that bushing swap, to me at least.
Whatever works for you man!
I'd stock up on bones mediums if you like them though. Most people tend to blow through those fairly quick.
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Are IKPs just an unsolvable mystery of the universe or something?
I don't know what the force would be, but I imagine that there might be something fundamental about the way that the hanger of a truck moves which causes an IKP to wriggle loose.
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I wonder if somehow there was a shorter nut with a split washer between it and the plate if that would help? It's just weird that there are parts on cars that move a lot with massive forces on them that have no issues. But those are also torqued more.
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Just stick some blue loctite on the kingpin and you'll be fine.
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I wonder if somehow there was a shorter nut with a split washer between it and the plate if that would help? It's just weird that there are parts on cars that move a lot with massive forces on them that have no issues. But those are also torqued more.
Hard to say. I don't think split washers work, but there are some other knurled options which might be effective. Maybe replacing the generic Nyloc nut on the bottom all together with a hexlock flex-top Nyloc (or something else like they use in aircraft) might be more effective. The problem there is that those are all patented and proprietary AFAIK, so Independent would be buying a $5 nut to use in every single truck. Another problem is that a lot of those are only made in metric, and of course I have no idea if this would actually work.
These are the cheapest 3/8"-24tpi flex nuts I could find.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295410211179?hash=item44c7d2196b:g:X~IAAOSwX79jlqWd&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoIP8U68Ikq5PPHym8Jspj%2BRxHzLPlWiTMGDPukul%2BHcya0h%2FS%2BUWZ%2BcEuGsFr0sZ8IHd%2FzC5%2FkTIELTQSCxKnvKCswRqNvuk3DC%2FiSb%2BVm%2BQ0jy3t3IAxmDZYAAzezhITWdX833jUYCEQt0A2lCUATXjvzPn3gZUJ09kBw6pCS2XWa6v1magdF9X5TL001EfUv9KoRe7qA7w7jIuRb%2BBefw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7CJ0cSzYQ
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It also occurs to me that installing a palnut prior to a conventional Nyloc might offer a chance for improvement. Do any of the inverted trucks do something like that?
(https://www.advancecomponents.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Palnuts-Pal-Nuts.jpg)
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Just stick some blue loctite on the kingpin and you'll be fine.
Yea but that means you have to know exactly how tight you want your trucks (without even being able to use the kp threads for reference) before you even skate them. And you would have to re loc tite after your bushings compressed and broke in.
all that extra hassle for a little extra clearance doesn't seem worth it.
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Expand Quote
I wonder if somehow there was a shorter nut with a split washer between it and the plate if that would help? It's just weird that there are parts on cars that move a lot with massive forces on them that have no issues. But those are also torqued more.
Hard to say. I don't think split washers work, but there are some other knurled options which might be effective. Maybe replacing the generic Nyloc nut on the bottom all together with a hexlock flex-top Nyloc (or something else like they use in aircraft) might be more effective. The problem there is that those are all patented and proprietary AFAIK, so Independent would be buying a $5 nut to use in every single truck. Another problem is that a lot of those are only made in metric, and of course I have no idea if this would actually work.
These are the cheapest 3/8"-24tpi flex nuts I could find.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295410211179?hash=item44c7d2196b:g:X~IAAOSwX79jlqWd&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoIP8U68Ikq5PPHym8Jspj%2BRxHzLPlWiTMGDPukul%2BHcya0h%2FS%2BUWZ%2BcEuGsFr0sZ8IHd%2FzC5%2FkTIELTQSCxKnvKCswRqNvuk3DC%2FiSb%2BVm%2BQ0jy3t3IAxmDZYAAzezhITWdX833jUYCEQt0A2lCUATXjvzPn3gZUJ09kBw6pCS2XWa6v1magdF9X5TL001EfUv9KoRe7qA7w7jIuRb%2BBefw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7CJ0cSzYQ
A normal internally flanged lock washer is pretty thin. I have an external cell antenna on my van that uses them in place of loctite and it is directly in the wind and hasn't loosened at all. Very thin too once cranked down, but not infinitely reusable and won't work with the Indy IKP sleeved plates. For DIY options it could be good.
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Expand Quote
I wonder if somehow there was a shorter nut with a split washer between it and the plate if that would help? It's just weird that there are parts on cars that move a lot with massive forces on them that have no issues. But those are also torqued more.
Hard to say. I don't think split washers work, but there are some other knurled options which might be effective. Maybe replacing the generic Nyloc nut on the bottom all together with a hexlock flex-top Nyloc (or something else like they use in aircraft) might be more effective. The problem there is that those are all patented and proprietary AFAIK, so Independent would be buying a $5 nut to use in every single truck. Another problem is that a lot of those are only made in metric, and of course I have no idea if this would actually work.
These are the cheapest 3/8"-24tpi flex nuts I could find.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295410211179?hash=item44c7d2196b:g:X~IAAOSwX79jlqWd&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoIP8U68Ikq5PPHym8Jspj%2BRxHzLPlWiTMGDPukul%2BHcya0h%2FS%2BUWZ%2BcEuGsFr0sZ8IHd%2FzC5%2FkTIELTQSCxKnvKCswRqNvuk3DC%2FiSb%2BVm%2BQ0jy3t3IAxmDZYAAzezhITWdX833jUYCEQt0A2lCUATXjvzPn3gZUJ09kBw6pCS2XWa6v1magdF9X5TL001EfUv9KoRe7qA7w7jIuRb%2BBefw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7CJ0cSzYQ
Never seen or heard of these before so thanks for sharing. These offer a better loosening resistance if I were to swap out the regular nylock nut inside my stage 7 plates? Also, if you think I'd be able to find these at the hardware store regardless of price, lemme know cause I will definitely try them.
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I wonder if somehow there was a shorter nut with a split washer between it and the plate if that would help? It's just weird that there are parts on cars that move a lot with massive forces on them that have no issues. But those are also torqued more.
Hard to say. I don't think split washers work, but there are some other knurled options which might be effective. Maybe replacing the generic Nyloc nut on the bottom all together with a hexlock flex-top Nyloc (or something else like they use in aircraft) might be more effective. The problem there is that those are all patented and proprietary AFAIK, so Independent would be buying a $5 nut to use in every single truck. Another problem is that a lot of those are only made in metric, and of course I have no idea if this would actually work.
These are the cheapest 3/8"-24tpi flex nuts I could find.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295410211179?hash=item44c7d2196b:g:X~IAAOSwX79jlqWd&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoIP8U68Ikq5PPHym8Jspj%2BRxHzLPlWiTMGDPukul%2BHcya0h%2FS%2BUWZ%2BcEuGsFr0sZ8IHd%2FzC5%2FkTIELTQSCxKnvKCswRqNvuk3DC%2FiSb%2BVm%2BQ0jy3t3IAxmDZYAAzezhITWdX833jUYCEQt0A2lCUATXjvzPn3gZUJ09kBw6pCS2XWa6v1magdF9X5TL001EfUv9KoRe7qA7w7jIuRb%2BBefw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7CJ0cSzYQ
Never seen or heard of these before so thanks for sharing. These offer a better loosening resistance if I were to swap out the regular nylock nut inside my stage 7 plates? Also, if you think I'd be able to find these at the hardware store regardless of price, lemme know cause I will definitely try them.
Supposedly they do, but I've not used them and I've never came across except when working with CNC equipment. I think that they're intended primarily for airline use. They're certainly not something I've seen even at the neighborhood Tacoma Screw (though feel free to look for yourself).
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About a pair of Independent Skateboard Trucks; Anodized Deep Purple 139 Std. Purchased 12/04/2013. Almost 10 years old. They still have the best turn out of any of my trucks I reckon. Especially noticable when powering out of a fs carve in transition. I also learned Fakie kickflip on a bank with these trucks riding a 8.5 Blind rasta deck, Bones blue clears 58mm (worn down) and bones ceramics (shields removed). It helped having more room to land, and a fast spin because of truck size ratio. They felt stable even on a wider deck.
(https://i.ibb.co/bsmVD64/DSC03653.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/PMSBg43/DSC03654.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/0JQZDLy/DSC03655.jpg)
Thanks for looking friends.
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I found a pair of those purple 139s at a thrift store. Honestly I thought they absolutely sucked compared to the Stage 11 and I sold them on eBay.
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They are great to me but I never ran the stock bushings. They were a clear purple.
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I had the opposite experience because I'm a weirdo. I had a ton more wheelbite with Thunder 149 than 148.
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I had the opposite experience because I'm a weirdo. I had a ton more wheelbite with Thunder 149 than 148.
Makes sense with their geometry.
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I think 139 is a good size….Indy’s are inherently beefy and on an 8” or 8.125 is still a nimble set up but stable enough to land on. More truck helps grinding, but that’s about it.
Wider trucks are more stable as well, wider/slower turn. Some would argue this is a con, but i feel much more confident on 149s than even 144s.
I feel this. After skating 139s for a couple of months, I definitely feel more confident on 144s.
I'm not skating Indys (Royals), but the madness of deciding between 139 and 144 has returned. My old madness was 139 vs 149 when 144s weren't an option.
Even now with 144s I'm again curious if 139s will still work better overall. They used to when I didn't know any better. It's got to a point where I've got two setups, one with 139s on 8s and the other with 144s on 8.125s. I really like the stability of 144 and how comfy grinds are, but I wanted 139s for flipping my board. I really can't be bothered with extra washers. Hollow 144 is probably what I need to settle on.
Titanium 144's
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They are great to me but I never ran the stock bushings. They were a clear purple.
That might be it. They had Bones hard bushings in them, and when I swapped for regular Indy bushings, they not only looked really silly but also didn't appear to even fit properly. But I bought them on a waterlogged skateboard for $5 and sold them on eBay for $60 so I cannot complain.
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Idk if they're new, but I see there's some Inverted Mid Forged Hollows out. Think that would be a cool baseplate swap-out since forged is what I typically ride.
https://independenttrucks.com/trucks#mid-forged-hollow
Only see 'em on Skate Warehouse and their sale just ended :/
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Indy_Forged_Hollow_Mid_139mm_Truck/descpage-INFHMTR.html
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Forged Mids been out since last year (spring?); currently my favorite indys.
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I think 139 is a good size….Indy’s are inherently beefy and on an 8” or 8.125 is still a nimble set up but stable enough to land on. More truck helps grinding, but that’s about it.
Wider trucks are more stable as well, wider/slower turn. Some would argue this is a con, but i feel much more confident on 149s than even 144s.
I feel this. After skating 139s for a couple of months, I definitely feel more confident on 144s.
I'm not skating Indys (Royals), but the madness of deciding between 139 and 144 has returned. My old madness was 139 vs 149 when 144s weren't an option.
Even now with 144s I'm again curious if 139s will still work better overall. They used to when I didn't know any better. It's got to a point where I've got two setups, one with 139s on 8s and the other with 144s on 8.125s. I really like the stability of 144 and how comfy grinds are, but I wanted 139s for flipping my board. I really can't be bothered with extra washers. Hollow 144 is probably what I need to settle on.
Go with what feels comfy, trucks are like shoes, when in doubt: size up.
Personally, 139/147 are seemingly forever off the radar, I just feel too unstable, and lack the precision with grinds to have such a small, usable area so 144/148/8.125 is as small I go these days; I blame decades of skating the old standby of 149s on an 8.25.
As the 149 forged hollow mindys (on an 8.5 or 8.3) have been working well (it's the height, I clearly prefer low trucks), I recently switched to an 8.25" Polar with wheel wells and 8.38 trucks (ML suckas!) , totally works for me...Not too wide and heavy, but low and turn damn near the same and I get the stability/grind room I like and a slightly smaller deck.
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After that scientific magic carpet talk I am going to put forged hollow 144s on my 8.3 and move the forged hollow 149s onto the 8.5 rain set up.
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After that scientific magic carpet talk I am going to put forged hollow 144s on my 8.3 and move the forged hollow 149s onto the 8.5 rain set up.
144s on 8.3s are fantastic (smaller 8.3s mind, not something like a DLX Full)
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After that scientific magic carpet talk I am going to put forged hollow 144s on my 8.3 and move the forged hollow 149s onto the 8.5 rain set up.
144s on 8.3s are fantastic (smaller 8.3s mind, not something like a DLX Full)
Noice. I am riding shop blank 8.3 twins from a German shop currently but have two 8.3 Ishod slicks coming up next.
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I never thought the titanium axel, forged baseplate was that good. There are a lot of benefits, weight difference being the number one but I found the material to rigid for long street riding because I feel like I get far more vibration through the other components. Whereas I feel cromoly steel axle asorbs more vibration. For me having a smooth ride is important and I like having hard wheels on all terrain. They are good though but they cause fatigue unless you're skating smooth skatepark concrete. It's probably just in my head. Idk, much love to y'all. 8) ;)
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Forged plates feel worse than cast but the bennies balance out imo.
A fully solid truck feels the best grinding solid materials.
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I never thought the titanium axel, forged baseplate was that good. There are a lot of benefits, weight difference being the number one but I found the material to rigid for long street riding because I feel like I get far more vibration through the other components. Whereas I feel cromoly steel axle asorbs more vibration. For me having a smooth ride is important and I like having hard wheels on all terrain. They are good though but they cause fatigue unless you're skating smooth skatepark concrete. It's probably just in my head. Idk, much love to y'all. 8) ;)
Nah, I completely agree that standard axle + cast plates give the smoothest ride.
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Personally, forged hollow plates with a standard hangar gives the right combination of smoothest grind to optimal height/weight ratio.
I've never noticed the tinny feeling or ang other weird anomalies with forged plates that some people seem to observe and I skate them often ??? Maybe only that the baseplate grinds down faster from nose/tailslides slightly?
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The only difference I feel between Standard, Forged and Titanium is the height. They grind all the same for me.
Maybe I will try Standard plates with a Titanium Hangar some time in the future. For now it is bushing madness.
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I had the opposite experience because I'm a weirdo. I had a ton more wheelbite with Thunder 149 than 148.
geometry wise, a longer hangar hits the board quicker and easier.
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After that scientific magic carpet talk I am going to put forged hollow 144s on my 8.3 and move the forged hollow 149s onto the 8.5 rain set up.
144s on 8.3s are fantastic (smaller 8.3s mind, not something like a DLX Full)
In my view, 144 is the magic size that moves seamlessly from 8.0" to 8.38" without needing adjustment. Best truck size IMO.
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About a pair of Independent Skateboard Trucks; Anodized Deep Purple 139 Std. Purchased 12/04/2013. Almost 10 years old. They still have the best turn out of any of my trucks I reckon. Especially noticable when powering out of a fs carve in transition. I also learned Fakie kickflip on a bank with these trucks riding a 8.5 Blind rasta deck, Bones blue clears 58mm (worn down) and bones ceramics (shields removed). It helped having more room to land, and a fast spin because of truck size ratio. They felt stable even on a wider deck.
(https://i.ibb.co/bsmVD64/DSC03653.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/PMSBg43/DSC03654.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/0JQZDLy/DSC03655.jpg)
Thanks for looking friends.
Idk why but lately I’ve been thinking about how sick anodized purple trucks look. Thanks for sharing
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did anybody see the "new" stage 4s peter hewitt posted on insta? they look like brand new trucks and not old stock he found
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did anybody see the "new" stage 4s peter hewitt posted on insta? they look like brand new trucks and not old stock he found
Not to be that guy this this has been discussed in this thread at length and Independent has even started openly marketing it on their Instagram.
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I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
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I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
That's insane. The problem definitely isn't titanium though, that's on indy. I've only slightly bent my titanium thunders after years of jumping down stuff
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I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
Titanium is generally strong and light but also extremely brittle and prone to stress risers. Sucks that this happened to you; I’d email Indy and ask them to swap for some hollows or another sufficiently “high end” truck.
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Expand Quote
I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
Titanium is generally strong and light but also extremely brittle and prone to stress risers. Sucks that this happened to you; I’d email Indy and ask them to swap for some hollows or another sufficiently “high end” truck.
Yea will do. I have zero trust in TI axles anymore.. Gonna ask for hollows. Never had a problem with those.
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(https://i.ibb.co/Qj61MhK/284-E16-AE-A8-C3-4922-95-C8-ADD82509446-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qj61MhK)
I want to thank whoever it was (can’t remember) that posted in this thread about putting stage 11 hangers on stage 8 plates. it inspired me to do the same, except the complete opposite.
idk if it’s nostalgia or something else, but I swear stage 8’s turned way better when I was skating them 20 years ago lmao. these just wouldn’t turn. so I took off the stage 8 hangers, ditched the bushings they came with, and put the stage 8 hangers on some brand new unskated stage 11 cast hollow plates and put some brand new stock indy bushings in there.
amazing turn. glad I have constant truck madness, otherwise I wouldn’t have been none the wiser. lmk if you’re the poster so I can gnar you. ❤️☺️
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Expand Quote
I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
That's insane. The problem definitely isn't titanium though, that's on indy. I've only slightly bent my titanium thunders after years of jumping down stuff
This appears to only be happening to the newer Indy ti axles.
Older Indy ti and every other ti axle in any brand truck are fine, from what I have heard, but there sure have been a number of newer Indy ti axles that have broken like this, from people on here, seeing some in person in skate shops and others on social media.
Curious but also makes me happy not to be riding ti axles, or even want to get any in for anyone else.
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Expand Quote
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I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
That's insane. The problem definitely isn't titanium though, that's on indy. I've only slightly bent my titanium thunders after years of jumping down stuff
This appears to only be happening to the newer Indy ti axles.
Older Indy ti and every other ti axle in any brand truck are fine, from what I have heard, but there sure have been a number of newer Indy ti axles that have broken like this, from people on here, seeing some in person in skate shops and others on social media.
Curious but also makes me happy not to be riding ti axles, or even want to get any in for anyone else.
I bought the first pair when the pandamic was at its high. Broke them after two weeks and received a new pair two weeks later. I put them in a box and started riding the new royals for two pairs. Then I decided to go back on indy and put the replaced pair on. This time the axle lasted a bit longer then two weeks. Maybe 10. My guess is that there is a bad batch of pandamic TI axles out there. I will awoid them for now.
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I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
Never again.
That's insane. The problem definitely isn't titanium though, that's on indy. I've only slightly bent my titanium thunders after years of jumping down stuff
This appears to only be happening to the newer Indy ti axles.
Older Indy ti and every other ti axle in any brand truck are fine, from what I have heard, but there sure have been a number of newer Indy ti axles that have broken like this, from people on here, seeing some in person in skate shops and others on social media.
Curious but also makes me happy not to be riding ti axles, or even want to get any in for anyone else.
I had a look through and actually have more ti axle trucks than I thought, some Indy 144, 149, 159 and 169s, some Thunder 149s and more, all of them still going strong (some even well worn and one set down to axle and grinded part way through that too, but still working) but all these sets on boards are from others and all manufactured well before the current timeframe with broken axle issues.
The weird thing is from putting in warranty claims on a significant amount of trucks over the years, none of them ever really broke in the same places, but all these ti axle trucks seem to be breaking in almost the exact same way / place, which is curious.
I am not about to go back and try to find all the pics or info from them but I think I have seen at least ten sets like this. That number might be very low in the grand scheme of things, guessing hundreds or even thousands have been produced, but it still seems like more than there should be with this issue.
-
I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
Damn dude! That sucks
Hope they get you sorted out.
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(https://i.ibb.co/Qj61MhK/284-E16-AE-A8-C3-4922-95-C8-ADD82509446-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qj61MhK)
I want to thank whoever it was (can’t remember) that posted in this thread about putting stage 11 hangers on stage 8 plates. it inspired me to do the same, except the complete opposite.
idk if it’s nostalgia or something else, but I swear stage 8’s turned way better when I was skating them 20 years ago lmao. these just wouldn’t turn. so I took off the stage 8 hangers, ditched the bushings they came with, and put the stage 8 hangers on some brand new unskated stage 11 cast hollow plates and put some brand new stock indy bushings in there.
amazing turn. glad I have constant truck madness, otherwise I wouldn’t have been none the wiser. lmk if you’re the poster so I can gnar you. ❤️☺️
How is the kingpin clearance? I can run this same combo but am too lazy to dig through my madness bag to try this combo lol, as I never thought of it. If I put a stage 8 hanger on a stage 8 baseplate...clearance does not exist. I'm tired of messing with inverted kingpins...
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Just re re re iterating how much i love the cast plate/ti hanger combo. I had an intense experience over the weekend that left me feeling very grateful and appreciative towards just about everything in my life.
I skated a couple days later and had a wonderful time on my board, everything still just feels so right.
Love this combo, and I've never liked something THIS much for so long. I usually start to get tired of my trucks after too long.
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(https://i.ibb.co/Qj61MhK/284-E16-AE-A8-C3-4922-95-C8-ADD82509446-B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qj61MhK)
I want to thank whoever it was (can’t remember) that posted in this thread about putting stage 11 hangers on stage 8 plates. it inspired me to do the same, except the complete opposite.
idk if it’s nostalgia or something else, but I swear stage 8’s turned way better when I was skating them 20 years ago lmao. these just wouldn’t turn. so I took off the stage 8 hangers, ditched the bushings they came with, and put the stage 8 hangers on some brand new unskated stage 11 cast hollow plates and put some brand new stock indy bushings in there.
amazing turn. glad I have constant truck madness, otherwise I wouldn’t have been none the wiser. lmk if you’re the poster so I can gnar you. ❤️☺️
How is the kingpin clearance? I can run this same combo but am too lazy to dig through my madness bag to try this combo lol, as I never thought of it. If I put a stage 8 hanger on a stage 8 baseplate...clearance does not exist. I'm tired of messing with inverted kingpins...
the kingpin clearance on the stage 8 hangers with the stage 11 baseplates is so much better, it isnt even comparable to when they were in the stage 8 plates. it def doesn’t give you the same clearance that say an IKP plate would, nor does it even give you the clearance a stage 11 plate with a standard kingpin would.
if I had to make the comparison, I would say it gives the same clearance an Indy stage 10 did. if not, even a bit more than a stage 10 (my fav Indy stage to date.) I know a lot of peoples’ opinions on the 10’s was somewhat polarizing, but I loved them.
anyway, to my original point I was trying to make before my ADD took over lmfao, is that their are three main contributing factors as to why stage 8’s had little to no kingpin clearance. the main reason they had god awful clearance was because of the bushings.
I was always a under the assumption that even back then, up until now, Indy stock bushings were all
The same height. they most definitely aren’t. although stage 8 bottom bushings are the same height as any other stage after it, the top bushings is insanely tall. like, the top bushing is damn near the same size as the bottom.
so one thing I tried before actually putting the stage 11 plates on the stage 8 hangers, is I tried putting the brand new, stock stage 11 Indy bushings on the stage 8 plates to see if they made the turn better. i saw Ben degros do that when he did his review on the stage 8’s a year or so ago, and he made it seem like it improved.
the problem is, (and this is the other factor I found out whilst trying the swap) is that stage 8 kingpins, (as well as alot of other truck companies in the late 90’s-early 2000’s) had a kingpin that never eventually went to a tapered, non-threaded part, as they got towards the top. so when I took the stage 8 bushings off the hangers, I saw that in fact, the whole kingpin was one giant thread, and it was considerably longer than a modern day kingpin. I’m assuming to accommodate the huge ass top bushing.
so I put the stage 11 bushings in the 8 plates. tightened them to nuts flush with the bolt, and they were Matt Rodriguez loose. Lmao. tightened them 2 threads up in the back, same thing. so that’s when I had the idea for the baseplate swap.
while writing this, I realized I listed three, but I’m dumb, and just realized that a turning radius would have nothing to do with clearance. (??) but, I will say, even though these 11 baseplates have made them much more enjoyable to skate and a much better turn, they definitely still have a similar turning radius of the 8, but it is definitely an improvement . I would say they turn a lot like a stage 10 as well. lol
oh, and also, I know a lot of people are either all about the IKP, or they hate it. I’ve read a lot of people on here complain about how they don’t hold their desired tightness. I however, have never had anything but good experiences with them so far. I have a pair of stage 11 Indy lows on my tech setup, and I love them, such an under rated truck. but one of the kingpins on the Indy low baseplates got completely stripped, and Indy low baseplates don’t work very well with standard Indy baseplates, because of the different kingpin length.
so I put 126 Indy low hangers on the IKP plates, and put in some ace low standard hardness bushings a friend gifted me, and they are amazing. but I also weigh 110 pounds, so that could have something to do with them holding their desired tightness for me. Lmao
sorry for the rain man style manifesto on a skateboard truck. Lmao. but I have little to no actual human interaction with people most days. so a novel comes out when I speak whether that be through the internet, as well as the unfortunate soul who has to bear it face to face. 🤣😝
**EDIT**
I just realized I could’ve saved 10 minutes and just posted photos. 🤦🏼♂️🤣
(https://i.ibb.co/f12r6Tg/CED34-D83-2208-4926-83-C8-6-E65069-D0-DCE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f12r6Tg)(https://i.ibb.co/ckzYWrH/22-F8-B40-F-89-EB-4-F64-9679-18-CAEC5-CA24-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ckzYWrH)(https://i.ibb.co/jkV6tXh/D81-A31-D4-BB9-C-4-DB3-AD9-F-941198-E1-F8-C4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jkV6tXh)
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Haha rad thanks for the detailed response and pics man. Kingpin clearance is still pretty bad though, I don't think I'll mess with the 8/11 combo. Let me know if you'd be interested in purchasing any stage 8 hangers from me. I have two 8" and one 9" all mint. I did notice what you did as well, regarding old stage 8 kingpins. No wonder they broke, the threading went way too far down, making them weaker. Modern trucks have kingpins where the threading is only at the top portion.
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I have a pair of 149 titanium’s that I’ve only cruised around on. No real abuse. They still have the cross logo on the baseplate. Think I’m in the clear?
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I have a pair of 149 titanium’s that I’ve only cruised around on. No real abuse. They still have the cross logo on the baseplate. Think I’m in the clear?
There is no cross on the two that broke on me so.. who knows.
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Expand Quote
I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
Damn dude! That sucks
Hope they get you sorted out.
Similar thing happened to a friend recently. He had some fresh Indy TI's. Wouldn't shut up about them in fact. How light they were. I think they were 159's. He was struggling with a trick in a ditch. He threw his board down in a rage and the axle broke, same spot as yours. We started calling it a "TI-tantrum"
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I have a pair of 149 titanium’s that I’ve only cruised around on. No real abuse. They still have the cross logo on the baseplate. Think I’m in the clear?
Yes, definitely before the known issues / faults on anything still with cross on baseplate or the circle logo.
Everything that broke has been the new smooth no nothing on the baseplate, from what I have seen too.
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I have a pair of 149 titanium’s that I’ve only cruised around on. No real abuse. They still have the cross logo on the baseplate. Think I’m in the clear?
yea, even these other instances are outliers.
Ive had 144 and 149 titaniums without the cross and they're both fine. I do lots of flip tricks and ledge tricks. I weigh like 170ish.
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I wish independent would make the 52mm mid with a regular kingpin / same weight as the forged hollow 11's. That's all we need.
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:-X
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I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
Damn dude! That sucks
Hope they get you sorted out.
Similar thing happened to a friend recently. He had some fresh Indy TI's. Wouldn't shut up about them in fact. How light they were. I think they were 159's. He was struggling with a trick in a ditch. He threw his board down in a rage and the axle broke, same spot as yours. We started calling it a "TI-tantrum"
🤣🤣🤣🤣 love that.
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I wish independent would make the 52mm mid in regular kingpin and weight as the forged hollow 11's. That's all we need.
That would be awesome. I am still contemplating if I should get the inverted kingpin baseplates. Hammer the kingpin out and replace it with a regular one. But I am not convinced that struggle would be worth it..
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I have a pair of 149 titanium’s that I’ve only cruised around on. No real abuse. They still have the cross logo on the baseplate. Think I’m in the clear?
I'm on year three of some 159 titanium, modern Chinese versions, with no issues whatsoever.
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I wish independent would make the 52mm mid in regular kingpin and weight as the forged hollow 11's. That's all we need.
That would be awesome. I am still contemplating if I should get the inverted kingpin baseplates. Hammer the kingpin out and replace it with a regular one. But I am not convinced that struggle would be worth it..
The baseplates are the same though? All you need is a mid hanger on a regular baseplate.
And then you get a 52mm indy with negative kingpin clearance
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I wish independent would make the 52mm mid in regular kingpin and weight as the forged hollow 11's. That's all we need.
That would be awesome. I am still contemplating if I should get the inverted kingpin baseplates. Hammer the kingpin out and replace it with a regular one. But I am not convinced that struggle would be worth it..
The baseplates are the same though? All you need is a mid hanger on a regular baseplate.
And then you get a 52mm indy with negative kingpin clearance
"negative kingpin clearance"? Like the kingpin protruding above the hanger?
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I wish independent would make the 52mm mid in regular kingpin and weight as the forged hollow 11's. That's all we need.
That would be awesome. I am still contemplating if I should get the inverted kingpin baseplates. Hammer the kingpin out and replace it with a regular one. But I am not convinced that struggle would be worth it..
The baseplates are the same though? All you need is a mid hanger on a regular baseplate.
And then you get a 52mm indy with negative kingpin clearance
"negative kingpin clearance"? Like the kingpin protruding above the hanger?
Not sure if it's actually above, but terrible for sure.
The mids with the inverted kingpin, already have less clearance than standard indys
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I wish independent would make the 52mm mid in regular kingpin and weight as the forged hollow 11's. That's all we need.
That would be awesome. I am still contemplating if I should get the inverted kingpin baseplates. Hammer the kingpin out and replace it with a regular one. But I am not convinced that struggle would be worth it..
The baseplates are the same though? All you need is a mid hanger on a regular baseplate.
And then you get a 52mm indy with negative kingpin clearance
"negative kingpin clearance"? Like the kingpin protruding above the hanger?
Not sure if it's actually above, but terrible for sure.
The mids with the inverted kingpin, already have less clearance than standard indys
I didnt catch your sarcasm on your first post lol
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I wish independent would make the 52mm mid in regular kingpin and weight as the forged hollow 11's. That's all we need.
you can buy standard Indy solid kingpin plates directly from NHS. no pivot cups come in the though.
That would be awesome. I am still contemplating if I should get the inverted kingpin baseplates. Hammer the kingpin out and replace it with a regular one. But I am not convinced that struggle would be worth it..
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Not reading this whole thread. Anyone hear about the Indy Stage 4 that are coming out soon?
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Not reading this whole thread. Anyone hear about the Indy Stage 4 that are coming out soon?
Top right. You can search stuff here
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Not reading this whole thread. Anyone hear about the Indy Stage 4 that are coming out soon?
You won’t find any information here which isn’t on Indy’s Instagram.
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Not reading this whole thread. Anyone hear about the Indy Stage 4 that are coming out soon?
The way you replied to this page, your user name checks out.
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Not reading this whole thread. Anyone hear about the Indy Stage 4 that are coming out soon?
Top right. You can search stuff here
so you havent heard of them?
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Not reading this whole thread. Anyone hear about the Indy Stage 4 that are coming out soon?
The way you replied to this page, your user name checks out.
good one. have you seen the new trucks or not?
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Not reading this whole thread. Anyone hear about the Indy Stage 4 that are coming out soon?
You won’t find any information here which isn’t on Indy’s Instagram.
yeah, theres a few clips of them being used but not a lot of info about them. I wanna know about the specs and sizes and all the nerd shit.
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Not reading this whole thread. Anyone hear about the Indy Stage 4 that are coming out soon?
You won’t find any information here which isn’t on Indy’s Instagram.
I deleted Instagram so I can’t find it right now, but they made a post about them. I don’t think they shared any details but if it’s just a Stage 4, it seems like you could google those already-existing specs. Word here was that it would only to as narrow as around 148/8.5”. Assume a size run of fairly common in-between sizes from there to however wide the 215 is.
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I put Hollow axles on a standard base plate I found, even has the OG USA stamp on the bottom, but am i messing with the geometry at all?
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I put Hollow axles on a standard base plate I found, even has the OG USA stamp on the bottom, but am i messing with the geometry at all?
wut?
axles have zero effect on geo. *unless they're bent, i guess.
if the hanger and baseplate are from the same stage, no.
if the bushing are the correct size and you use all the washers, still no.
if you're stoned outta your mind? yeah, yer geo's fukd.
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More images of the Stage 4 from Independent’s story:
(https://i.ibb.co/JzR5QJK/52-C10319-C865-42-D6-BA07-C3-D409615202.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JzR5QJK)
(https://i.ibb.co/RYtXX1R/F22-A1-BA0-D356-4-A99-8972-976702-E0134-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RYtXX1R)
(https://i.ibb.co/wCPqw47/865-F2289-424-A-48-FD-8-A13-98-C89-C242199.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wCPqw47)
(https://i.ibb.co/pQ06NBQ/B7-A0-AEA5-6-D42-41-F4-B6-A6-12-C11-D688-CA6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pQ06NBQ)
Screenshot for posterity :)
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More images of the Stage 4 from Independent’s story:
(https://i.ibb.co/JzR5QJK/52-C10319-C865-42-D6-BA07-C3-D409615202.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JzR5QJK)
(https://i.ibb.co/RYtXX1R/F22-A1-BA0-D356-4-A99-8972-976702-E0134-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RYtXX1R)
(https://i.ibb.co/wCPqw47/865-F2289-424-A-48-FD-8-A13-98-C89-C242199.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wCPqw47)
(https://i.ibb.co/pQ06NBQ/B7-A0-AEA5-6-D42-41-F4-B6-A6-12-C11-D688-CA6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pQ06NBQ)
Screenshot for posterity :)
The kingpin clearance on these just doesn't look right to me. It looks like a step backwards for clearance. The overall look of the truck looks good but seems like they could have got a lower kingpin these days.
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
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That's a lot of buzzwords damn.
But I like that they're bringing back old stages. Seems like people wanted that for a long time
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Current production parts for older parts are sick as hell, people that still use the older stages should be stoked!
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Stoked on the 151 sizing. Not stoked on the KP clearance. I bet these will also be pretty heavy (not a dealbreaker me personally).
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Thanks.
Weird how you approached sharing this, but thanks.
-
Expand Quote
I put Hollow axles on a standard base plate I found, even has the OG USA stamp on the bottom, but am i messing with the geometry at all?
wut?
axles have zero effect on geo. *unless they're bent, i guess.
if the hanger and baseplate are from the same stage, no.
if the bushing are the correct size and you use all the washers, still no.
if you're stoned outta your mind? yeah, yer geo's fukd.
actually came back to see the reply and am stoned , yeah my truck geo is probably fried too lmao
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The ikp baseplates you can buy are they forged or cast?
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The ikp baseplates you can buy are they forged or cast?
Cast, only the forged mids have ikp + forged
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can you buy 4 hole cast baseplates with a regular kingpin separately?
I only see the 6 hole and IKP on NHS site.
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can you buy 4 hole cast baseplates with a regular kingpin separately?
I only see the 6 hole and IKP on NHS site.
Only 6 hole baseplates.
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Stage 4’s are dropping on Skateshop Day. Very few shops are getting them. They will not be available online for the initial release.
-
Expand Quote
My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Stage 4’s are dropping on Skateshop Day. Very few shops are getting them. They will not be available online for the initial release.
Very curious to see how these TURN out.....
all jokes aside, im excited to learn how much they weigh and how they turn.
I'm curious to try them, but im not completely sold yet. Don't think they'll go on my regular board and I dont really NEED to spend the money on different trucks for my cruisers, but we'll see.
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I currently have stage 6, 8, 10 and 11 cast, forged hollow, and Ti. It seems that I will probably end up with these although I don't need them. And my wife and I just started a 12 week decluttering class. But it's ok if I keep them in the garage, right?
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I currently have stage 6, 8, 10 and 11 cast, forged hollow, and Ti. It seems that I will probably end up with these although I don't need them. And my wife and I just started a 12 week decluttering class. But it's ok if I keep them in the garage, right?
For real?
Are you guys hoarders?
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I currently have stage 6, 8, 10 and 11 cast, forged hollow, and Ti. It seems that I will probably end up with these although I don't need them. And my wife and I just started a 12 week decluttering class. But it's ok if I keep them in the garage, right?
For real?
Are you guys hoarders?
12 weeks - of decluttering. Will there be anything left?
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I currently have stage 6, 8, 10 and 11 cast, forged hollow, and Ti. It seems that I will probably end up with these although I don't need them. And my wife and I just started a 12 week decluttering class. But it's ok if I keep them in the garage, right?
For real?
Are you guys hoarders?
12 weeks - of decluttering. Will there be anything left?
Hopefully his wife/marriage
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Thanks.
Weird how you approached sharing this, but thanks.
…and just an hour or so later after the initial ask…suspect…
-
I currently have stage 6, 8, 10 and 11 cast, forged hollow, and Ti. It seems that I will probably end up with these although I don't need them. And my wife and I just started a 12 week decluttering class. But it's ok if I keep them in the garage, right?
good luck with the decluttering
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Expand Quote
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Thanks.
Weird how you approached sharing this, but thanks.
…and just an hour or so later after the initial ask…suspect…
Its obvious he was baiting lol
I just dont understand the weird dickhead "im not reading/searching" angle haha
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I currently have stage 6, 8, 10 and 11 cast, forged hollow, and Ti. It seems that I will probably end up with these although I don't need them. And my wife and I just started a 12 week decluttering class. But it's ok if I keep them in the garage, right?
For real?
Are you guys hoarders?
We live in a reasonably sized house with a good amount of storage, but it's full. Everyone has multiple hobbies that come with gear - skateboarding, biking (road, mountain and cyclocross), skiing (downhill, xc and skate), tennis, pickleball, knitting (yes, a fuckton of yarn), sewing and the 10 bins of fabric, weaving, cooking and kitchen gadgets, photography and videography equipment - and we have 9 and 12 year olds who don't want to get rid of things. Oh my fuck - the art supplies. We have multiple businesses that need space and everything that goes with them. A great collection of mid-century furniture that needs to be cut by half - a bunch of vintage Eames and Le Corbusier. And I'm old enough to still have a few hundred vinyl records and about 900 CDs, but only listen to streaming. I'm ready to get rid of shit without the "class", but my wife needs motivation and accountability. This 12 week is that step.
My ebay account is going to be lit.
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I currently have stage 6, 8, 10 and 11 cast, forged hollow, and Ti. It seems that I will probably end up with these although I don't need them. And my wife and I just started a 12 week decluttering class. But it's ok if I keep them in the garage, right?
For real?
Are you guys hoarders?
We live in a reasonably sized house with a good amount of storage, but it's full. Everyone has multiple hobbies that come with gear - skateboarding, biking (road, mountain and cyclocross), skiing (downhill, xc and skate), tennis, pickleball, knitting (yes, a fuckton of yarn), sewing and the 10 bins of fabric, weaving, cooking and kitchen gadgets, photography and videography equipment - and we have 9 and 12 year olds who don't want to get rid of things. Oh my fuck - the art supplies. We have multiple businesses that need space and everything that goes with them. A great collection of mid-century furniture that needs to be cut by half - a bunch of vintage Eames and Le Corbusier. And I'm old enough to still have a few hundred vinyl records and about 900 CDs, but only listen to streaming. I'm ready to get rid of shit without the "class", but my wife needs motivation and accountability. This 12 week is that step.
My ebay account is going to be lit.
Yea, hobbies and businesses will def have you keeping a lot of crap around.
Good luck man, its gonna feel so good to get all that shit out.
I purge like 1-2 times a year and it always feels amazing, and I have nowhere near the amount that you have.
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Thanks.
Weird how you approached sharing this, but thanks.
…and just an hour or so later after the initial ask…suspect…
Its obvious he was baiting lol
I just dont understand the weird dickhead "im not reading/searching" angle haha
omg I feel like such a dork defending myself to you dickheads. I tried searching. go type in "stage 4" in the search and see for yourself the prompt that says "each word must be at least two characters long" so I got no results searching. clicked a few pages back to see if anyone was was talking about them and decided im not reading all this shit. I tried asking you dickheads and got the dickhead "theres a search bar in the corner" response. I should have just asked my friend at the shop first because he sent me that info right away. I was hoping to spark a discussion and just wanted know what you dickheads think of the new trucks and whats so special about them because i dont quite understand the appeal of a reissue truck or how they perform different from stage 11.
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Thanks.
Weird how you approached sharing this, but thanks.
…and just an hour or so later after the initial ask…suspect…
Its obvious he was baiting lol
I just dont understand the weird dickhead "im not reading/searching" angle haha
I honestly don’t get it either. it seems like a weird stage to bring back, even though it’s obvious it’s a way to show ace they had the design first or whatever.
I’ve never heard anyone say they wish that stage 4 from 1981?Would come back. Lmao. always hear 7 and 8 being in high demand for a remake though.
but I’m still gonna waste money and buy them in 8.0” when they come out. and then waste more money when they come out with the one that’s hollow and made of whatever whatever. lmao
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My friend from a shop emailed this to me. It says they will be available in a month or so.
• Sizes 136 (8.0), 146 (8.375), 151 (8.625), 166 (9.0)
• 55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
• A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
• The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
• SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
• Highest quality and durability available.
• Grade 8 Kingpin
• 90a Original Cushions w/ printed Bar logo. Cushions are same hardness as stock Indys, using our ultra-high rebound Genuine Parts upgrade urethane formula. These cushions are sized to fit Stages 1-7,and will not fit Stage 11 Trucks.
• Upgrade cushions will be available in 90a (red), 92a (Blue), and 94a (Yellow)
• Stage 4 Cushions and Baseplates not compatible with Stage 11.
• 6-hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Thanks.
Weird how you approached sharing this, but thanks.
…and just an hour or so later after the initial ask…suspect…
Its obvious he was baiting lol
I just dont understand the weird dickhead "im not reading/searching" angle haha
...what you think of the new trucks and whats so special about them because i dont quite understand the appeal of a reissue truck or how they perform different from stage 11.
The joys of people talking online about skateboards, combined with a solid dose of sarcasm, irony and "old guy bitterness" which I definitely have, so I guess I go easy on here compared to how scathing I can be in person, but after all that, I must say that I am thankful for you putting up the information, as no one had really seen or heard anything like that before, including some shop guys like me, but I don't get out much any more either, so to speak.
I guess people could laugh it off and carry on, or be butthurt and sulk - both of which I have definitely seen from any number of people on here, but also sometimes just text cannot convey anything other than the words people read in their own head, so who knows how someone types or how someone else interprets what is being said.
Some days I get on here, read what is going on and close the browser without typing a single reply, but other times I seem like I just can't stop and probably say way too much, like this reply. Either way, I find that this is a good place for me to come and share stuff, whatever the thing may be, as well as get info from others that I find interesting.
As to how these trucks could or would perform, I have never ridden anything older than Stage 5 (that I can recall) but I have older and newer 215s and an assortment of Ace trucks, so I can imagine that they would perform in a similar way to those, even though I personally am quite happy with the standard Stage 11 trucks, more than any other older stages or frankenstein versions of whatever else I have set up just to see what works and what doesn't over the years.
Of course, if someone were to offer me a set, I would not hesitate to try them and see what all the fuss is about, but I wouldn't go seeking them out to try to be "the first guy on the block" to get a set, if that makes sense.
As I had said before, the evolution of skateboard parts, from humble beginnings to technological wonders, is an interesting journey, but I am happy finding something that works for me, that is readily available and that doesn't need a whole lot of struggles just to make it work how I need it to, hence the current Stage 11 are just great and do everything I need them to right from the first session to the last.
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I know they say the new trucks are not compatible, but I have a toolbox full of Indys, all sizes and current varieties. Its been raining for weeks, so I did some cross-testing and here’s what I think I’ve found out:
Standard Stage XI Baseplate vs. 215/Stage IV Baseplate
They look very similar. It’s difficult to tell by eye if it’s the height or kingpin angle, or both, or neither that’s different. I couldn’t figure it out with the limited measuring devices I had on hand. The kingpins on the 215 baseplates are longer for sure. Turns out that’s the easy way to tell.
I found this out because I accidentally cross-mounted a 169 hanger on the 215 baseplate and vice versa. Interestingly, I was able to tighten the nut even though the larger 215 bushings were on a shorter kingpin. Have to imagine that combo would have been much tighter than stock, but it got me thinking to test all this stuff a little.
215/Stage IV Compatibility w/ Standard Stage XI IKP Baseplate
I put these particular 215s on a cruiser last summer and out of curiosity I had used the inverted kingpin baseplate. They worked great, so I had the base knowledge that the geometry between Stage XI and Stage IV is close enough for them to work based on that test.
215/Stage IV Compatibility w/ Standard Stage XI Baseplate
After realizing I put the 215s on the wrong baseplate today, I switched out the taller Stage IV bushings for the stock Stage XI bushings, but still on the Standard Stage XI baseplate. This combination seems to mount together just fine, and the kingpin clearance is much better.
I also compared the 215 bushings to the regular ones to see how much this might fuck with the geometry, but I found most of the size difference is in the top cone bushing, so I don’t think swapping in a Stage XI barrel changes the geometry a huge amount. Alternatively, only swapping in a Stage XI top bushing could be an option if you want to try Stage IV hangers on Stage XI baseplates.
Hope this helps, and I will follow up with some good photos to illustrate the results of these rainy day tests.
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All I wanna know is if bones mediums will work in the stage IV remake
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omg I feel like such a dork defending myself to you dickheads. I tried searching. go type in "stage 4" in the search and see for yourself the prompt that says "each word must be at least two characters long" so I got no results searching. clicked a few pages back to see if anyone was was talking about them and decided im not reading all this shit. I tried asking you dickheads and got the dickhead "theres a search bar in the corner" response. I should have just asked my friend at the shop first because he sent me that info right away. I was hoping to spark a discussion and just wanted know what you dickheads think of the new trucks and whats so special about them because i dont quite understand the appeal of a reissue truck or how they perform different from stage 11.
You're fine man, just understand how the timing of your posts would look weird from everyone elses point of view. Dont sweat it
All I wanna know is if bones mediums will work in the stage IV remake
Yea for like a month until they deform.
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Saw frank shaw was skating the new indys on his IG so I DM'd him like a man and he said he was liking them so far. He said the turn felt "more responsive" so more ace-like like people have been saying/guessing.
I asked about weight too and he said he wasn't sure if there was much of a weight difference between them and standards. So the jury is still out on that.
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I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
Damn dude! That sucks
Hope they get you sorted out.
Similar thing happened to a friend recently. He had some fresh Indy TI's. Wouldn't shut up about them in fact. How light they were. I think they were 159's. He was struggling with a trick in a ditch. He threw his board down in a rage and the axle broke, same spot as yours. We started calling it a "TI-tantrum"
🤣🤣🤣🤣 love that.
Yes! That's a sick nickname
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I cleaned my bearings this weekend and when i took my wheels off i noticed a couple ends of my axels had pieces chipped off. Small pieces, and I could still get the nut back on, but it kinda reminded me of the break mentioned above.
Maybe something is going on at the manufacturer that is making these Ti axels more brittle?
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I cleaned my bearings this weekend and when i took my wheels off i noticed a couple ends of my axels had pieces chipped off. Small pieces, and I could still get the nut back on, but it kinda reminded me of the break mentioned above.
Maybe something is going on at the manufacturer that is making these Ti axels more brittle?
You have Ti axles? I’d stop skating those immediately and contact Indy about a warranty replacement.
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I cleaned my bearings this weekend and when i took my wheels off i noticed a couple ends of my axels had pieces chipped off. Small pieces, and I could still get the nut back on, but it kinda reminded me of the break mentioned above.
Maybe something is going on at the manufacturer that is making these Ti axels more brittle?
You have Ti axles? I’d stop skating those immediately and contact Indy about a warranty replacement.
Think so? I cant imagine they would send replacements for slightly chipped axel tips. Im talking like one thread was chipped off 1/4 - 1/2 of the way around the axel. I think it happened on two tips? maybe three.
But it was a clear break/chip. not likeit got smashed down.
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I cleaned my bearings this weekend and when i took my wheels off i noticed a couple ends of my axels had pieces chipped off. Small pieces, and I could still get the nut back on, but it kinda reminded me of the break mentioned above.
Maybe something is going on at the manufacturer that is making these Ti axels more brittle?
You have Ti axles? I’d stop skating those immediately and contact Indy about a warranty replacement.
Think so? I cant imagine they would send replacements for slightly chipped axel tips. Im talking like one thread was chipped off 1/4 - 1/2 of the way around the axel.
But it was a clear break/chip. not likeit got smashed down.
Oh, you didn’t say they were chipped at the tip. I thought your were saying they were chipped where the bearings sit, the sort of damage you’d see when you removed your wheels. I wouldn’t fuck with that for one second, but yeah, damage to the axle tips is normal. Probably fine.
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I cleaned my bearings this weekend and when i took my wheels off i noticed a couple ends of my axels had pieces chipped off. Small pieces, and I could still get the nut back on, but it kinda reminded me of the break mentioned above.
Maybe something is going on at the manufacturer that is making these Ti axels more brittle?
You have Ti axles? I’d stop skating those immediately and contact Indy about a warranty replacement.
Think so? I cant imagine they would send replacements for slightly chipped axel tips. Im talking like one thread was chipped off 1/4 - 1/2 of the way around the axel.
But it was a clear break/chip. not likeit got smashed down.
Oh, I missed where you said they were chipped at the tip. I thought your were saying they were chipped where the bearings sit. I wouldn’t fuck with that for one second, but yeah, damage to the axle tips is normal. Never mind then.
Oh yea, chipped around where the bearings sit is def sketchy haha.
And damage on the ends is def normal, but I've never seen them chip like this before. Ill take a pic when i get home if i remember.
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Is it a thing that you can feel more ground vibration on forged plates versus cast? I ride 99 f4 Classics.
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Is it a thing that you can feel more ground vibration on forged plates versus cast? I ride 99 f4 Classics.
Unsure about more vibration, but the feel is for sure different; forged have a tinny feeling compared to cast to me.
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Is it a thing that you can feel more ground vibration on forged plates versus cast? I ride 99 f4 Classics.
You notice the difference in feel mostly on nose/tail slides. Forged plates catch easier, but they also feel like they slide faster when they dont catch. Very small difference though.
Aside from the height/weight difference, its more of a sound thing when riding. just resonates differently, kinda like how risers affect the sound/feel but in the opposite direction.
High level madness shit right here, really not that noticeable unless you're a tweaker, but since you're in shoes and gear, you probably are.
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Is it a thing that you can feel more ground vibration on forged plates versus cast? I ride 99 f4 Classics.
You notice the difference in feel mostly on nose/tail slides. Forged plates catch easier, but they also feel like they slide faster when they dont catch. Very small difference though.
Aside from the height/weight difference, its more of a sound thing when riding. just resonates differently, kinda like how risers affect the sound/feel but in the opposite direction.
High level madness shit right here, really not that noticeable unless you're a tweaker, but since you're in shoes and gear, you probably are.
I always run my forged with conical fulls 54-55, I wonder if that helps dampen the sound? And I do that to compensate for the weight/height with my cast I do with classics 52-54.
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Is it a thing that you can feel more ground vibration on forged plates versus cast? I ride 99 f4 Classics.
You notice the difference in feel mostly on nose/tail slides. Forged plates catch easier, but they also feel like they slide faster when they dont catch. Very small difference though.
Aside from the height/weight difference, its more of a sound thing when riding. just resonates differently, kinda like how risers affect the sound/feel but in the opposite direction.
High level madness shit right here, really not that noticeable unless you're a tweaker, but since you're in shoes and gear, you probably are.
I always run my forged with conical fulls 54-55, I wonder if that helps dampen the sound? And I do that to compensate for the weight/height with my cast I do with classics 52-54.
Couldnt tell ya, im sure it has some effect, however minute.
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I notice less fro the forged plates and more the hollow axle and kingpin. Think about it a tube resonates more than a solid rod. It probably exaggerates the difference. I also never picked up on it until I came on Slap and can't really hear it on other's boards.
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Is it a thing that you can feel more ground vibration on forged plates versus cast? I ride 99 f4 Classics.
You notice the difference in feel mostly on nose/tail slides. Forged plates catch easier, but they also feel like they slide faster when they dont catch. Very small difference though.
Aside from the height/weight difference, its more of a sound thing when riding. just resonates differently, kinda like how risers affect the sound/feel but in the opposite direction.
High level madness shit right here, really not that noticeable unless you're a tweaker, but since you're in shoes and gear, you probably are.
I always run my forged with conical fulls 54-55, I wonder if that helps dampen the sound? And I do that to compensate for the weight/height with my cast I do with classics 52-54.
But why?
Do you prefer a specific height? Like your setups is right around 80-81 mm plus the thickness of your boards.
Indy specifies up to 54 on forged and 56 on cast.
I’d run forgeds with smaller wheels to avoid wheelbite and have a lower overall setup, and in casts i use slightly bigger wheels.
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I figure the reduction in height/weight with forged is evened out with the bigger wheels, when compared to standard height/weight with classics. I often run multiple setups and may change mid-sesh or day-to-day. I feel like doing it this way gives me more consistency while also ticking the boxes of madnesses when I skate. Heavy trucks + light wheels; light trucks + heavy wheels. Can't imagine the headache I'd give myself trying to do the forged with 52mm classic and how off that weight would feel compared to everything else I skate. When I set my boards on the ground next to each other they all sit about the same height, and that matters most to me as far as their interchangeability. I assume it helps regulate the pop time/feel as well. And for what it's worth, I run pretty loose and don't have much of an issue with wheelbite on the forged. It gives my board wheel wells, but rarely stops me.
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Thanks for all the responses. I definitely feel a difference in slide between the plates and obviously pop - and I too blame slap for being able to notice lol. I moved over some 99 f4 classic 55s that were about 52 to the forged trucks and set up a new set of 55s on my standards, both hollows. After a street session my feet were wrecked from the vibration on my forged trucks - or maybe the new 55s just feel like monster truck tires comparatively.
My manuals were significantly better on forged so I think I will keep them setup for that, but my pop is so accustomed to standards that I didn't feel like myself.
Anyway that's my little forged/cast drama I made up for myself. Thanks for listening.
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Thanks for all the responses. I definitely feel a difference in slide between the plates and obviously pop - and I too blame slap for being able to notice lol. I moved over some 99 f4 classic 55s that were about 52 to the forged trucks and set up a new set of 55s on my standards, both hollows. After a street session my feet were wrecked from the vibration on my forged trucks - or maybe the new 55s just feel like monster truck tires comparatively.
My manuals were significantly better on forged so I think I will keep them setup for that, but my pop is so accustomed to standards that I didn't feel like myself.
Anyway that's my little forged/cast drama I made up for myself. Thanks for listening.
I have the opposite experience, manuals work much better on cast for me.
I love indys, they work the best all around for me but man, the manual point on ventures is insane. Too bad they dont turn/grind lol.
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I’m sure it’s in there somewhere,but Ben D mentioned how he prefers solid axels for flip tricks, hollows didn’t roll over as well. Ideally he’d like a forged base/solid hanger. The weight of the hanger help keep the momentum of the board rolling over….I equate it to swing weight on a golf club….more power…although….it’s kinda different…
To summarize…..koo…koo…..
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Does anyone have any good experiences with ace medium bushings in indys? (not the old ones that came with the black label, the newer ace bushings with the cool yellow label that says compatible with AF1/classics)
Im stuck with a lot of DLX and indy bushings laying around and the combinations wont work simply cuz they all suck ass compared to whats out there. Drawn to ace because a friend told me they worked for him and they dont freeze in cold temperatures. Can anyone share their experience with these bushings and how it made indys feel?
for reference im 175lb so i definitely hate stock tightness on say, ventures and indys, but not ace or thunder. Then again the last time i skated ace was the classics era and i remember the old ace bushings were a nightmare to break in (than again, ive heard the new bushings mush out or melt or something)
I like loos-ish trucks, but i dont want squirrely instability which is what ill get if i start shaving my current bushings down.
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ACE Mediums are an excellent choice for anything that comes with a barrel bushing. I run ace regs bottom and ace low tops in my indys and Ventures (perfect combo).
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ACE Mediums are an excellent choice for anything that comes with a barrel bushing.
heheh concise and convincing, purchasing now.
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Thanks for all the responses. I definitely feel a difference in slide between the plates and obviously pop - and I too blame slap for being able to notice lol. I moved over some 99 f4 classic 55s that were about 52 to the forged trucks and set up a new set of 55s on my standards, both hollows. After a street session my feet were wrecked from the vibration on my forged trucks - or maybe the new 55s just feel like monster truck tires comparatively.
My manuals were significantly better on forged so I think I will keep them setup for that, but my pop is so accustomed to standards that I didn't feel like myself.
Anyway that's my little forged/cast drama I made up for myself. Thanks for listening.
I have the opposite experience, manuals work much better on cast for me.
I love indys, they work the best all around for me but man, the manual point on ventures is insane. Too bad they dont turn/grind lol.
I'm the opposite I fucking haaaate the Venture manual point.
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ACE Mediums are an excellent choice for anything that comes with a barrel bushing.
heheh concise and convincing, purchasing now.
Ace bushings are great if the duro is what you're looking for.
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I figure the reduction in height/weight with forged is evened out with the bigger wheels, when compared to standard height/weight with classics. I often run multiple setups and may change mid-sesh or day-to-day. I feel like doing it this way gives me more consistency while also ticking the boxes of madnesses when I skate. Heavy trucks + light wheels; light trucks + heavy wheels. Can't imagine the headache I'd give myself trying to do the forged with 52mm classic and how off that weight would feel compared to everything else I skate. When I set my boards on the ground next to each other they all sit about the same height, and that matters most to me as far as their interchangeability. I assume it helps regulate the pop time/feel as well. And for what it's worth, I run pretty loose and don't have much of an issue with wheelbite on the forged. It gives my board wheel wells, but rarely stops me.
Well now that you’ve explained it, it makes perfect sense.
Currently I’m running my Bones 54 STF99a on cast/hollow 169, cause my spit F4 57mm radials are too slippery skating the indoors at around the freezing point.
Also, just wanted to let it out that Bones bushings doesn’t freeze up in the cold. For Indy’s keep the bottom washer on, unless you want blown out pivot cups.
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Does anyone have any good experiences with ace medium bushings in indys? (not the old ones that came with the black label, the newer ace bushings with the cool yellow label that says compatible with AF1/classics)
Im stuck with a lot of DLX and indy bushings laying around and the combinations wont work simply cuz they all suck ass compared to whats out there. Drawn to ace because a friend told me they worked for him and they dont freeze in cold temperatures. Can anyone share their experience with these bushings and how it made indys feel?
for reference im 175lb so i definitely hate stock tightness on say, ventures and indys, but not ace or thunder. Then again the last time i skated ace was the classics era and i remember the old ace bushings were a nightmare to break in (than again, ive heard the new bushings mush out or melt or something)
I like loos-ish trucks, but i dont want squirrely instability which is what ill get if i start shaving my current bushings down.
I use the Ace lows in standard Indy’s. I just recently got a set of the new ones with the AF1 packaging. The lows are pretty close in size to the stock Indy bushings, so no reason to buy a set of lows and highs. Compared to stock Indy bushings, the Ace low bottom is 0.5mm shorter and the top is 1mm shorter, so the difference is minimal.
I weigh 180, so pretty close to you. Ace are definitely one of the more cold resistant bushings out there. They will make your Indy’s turn almost as good as Aces.
Side note to add to the madness, the Independent blue conical 92a bushings will also get you close to the Ace turn
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mayb bushing selections can also be the cause of the vibrations. just like when choosing wheel durometer.
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Anyone know what shops are for sure getting the stage 4's on go skate day? Or is that just total rumor BS?
mayb bushing selections can also be the cause of the vibrations. just like when choosing wheel durometer.
Everything has SOME effect on it. even down to your hardware. It's just HOW MUCH it affects it is the question.
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Anyone know what shops are for sure getting the stage 4's on go skate day? Or is that just total rumor BS?
Not a rumor. I own a shop. I’ll be bummed if NHS told us we were the only ones in our area getting the Stage 4’s, and then everyone got them.
Not sure where you’re from, but I would check in with your local shops and see who is getting them.
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Anyone know what shops are for sure getting the stage 4's on go skate day? Or is that just total rumor BS?
Not a rumor. I own a shop. I’ll be bummed if NHS told us we were the only ones in our area getting the Stage 4’s, and then everyone got them.
Not sure where you’re from, but I would check in with your local shops and see who is getting them.
East coast, i usually try to buy from shops out here first.
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Anyone know what shops are for sure getting the stage 4's on go skate day? Or is that just total rumor BS?
Not a rumor. I own a shop. I’ll be bummed if NHS told us we were the only ones in our area getting the Stage 4’s, and then everyone got them.
Not sure where you’re from, but I would check in with your local shops and see who is getting them.
East coast, i usually try to buy from shops out here first.
I was told we couldn’t even put them on our own website. They’re really pushing for people to go in to shops to get these. You’re best bet is a local shop
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Anyone know what shops are for sure getting the stage 4's on go skate day? Or is that just total rumor BS?
Not a rumor. I own a shop. I’ll be bummed if NHS told us we were the only ones in our area getting the Stage 4’s, and then everyone got them.
Not sure where you’re from, but I would check in with your local shops and see who is getting them.
East coast, i usually try to buy from shops out here first.
I was told we couldn’t even put them on our own website. They’re really pushing for people to go in to shops to get these. You’re best bet is a local shop
Damn! That's kinda tight. Inconvenient, but kinda rad at the same time. Cool if true. NHS has been WAY behind DLX in terms of putting shops first.
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I get totally sucked into this type of shit. I don't need new trucks and I don't really care that much about Stage 4 rereleases but I'm sure I will be cycling by one of my three local shops on Skate Shop day, walk on in and inevitably walk out with a pair of these bartasrd trucks....
Dropping the soap in front of NHS right now...
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I still have Aces I have to skate through!
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I get totally sucked into this type of shit. I don't need new trucks and I don't really care that much about Stage 4 rereleases but I'm sure I will be cycling by one of my three local shops on Skate Shop day, walk on in and inevitably walk out with a pair of these bartasrd trucks....
Dropping the soap in front of NHS right now...
A man in the screaming hand mascot suit unzips his pants....
I still have Aces I have to skate through!
I have AF1's on my bigger cruiser and ACE classics on my zip zinger. I really want to try indy 109's on the zip zinger and these new stage 4's on the bigger cruiser, but it just feels like SUCH a waste lol idk if i'll be able to make myself pull the trigger on them since i doubt the difference will be very drastic.
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mayb bushing selections can also be the cause of the vibrations. just like when choosing wheel durometer.
I'm running stock orange on the forged and aftermarket orange (harder of the two)on the cast. I was only testing the difference to see if I can actually tell a difference in height - surprised myself that I actually could, but more surprised that it negatively affected my pop and felt funny rolling around too. I thought a quicker pop would help my old legs get up to stuff more easily, but mostly I just lost some of my pop. So now all I wanna do is curl up with my standards and never let them go.
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Bucky testing the carbon fibre baseplates
https://youtu.be/MYT3EFHOu24
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Took Indy baseplate molds and just made em carbon fiber, that's pretty rad. Notice the buddy made them inverted as well, wonder if they have the shaft nut design? These seem like a better and stronger alternative to forged or mag plates.
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13:30
My dude, let it go. shave that shit off, that ain’t it.
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Got word from my local that NHS is leaving distributors and only dealing direct, meaning Indy trucks will be out of inventory for shops that base their stock from East Coast Skate Supply. Not sure how many other distributors would be affected by this move.
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Got word from my local that NHS is leaving distributors and only dealing direct, meaning Indy trucks will be out of inventory for shops that base their stock from East Coast Skate Supply. Not sure how many other distributors would be affected by this move.
Another sign of a contracting industry sitting on tons and tons of unsold product.
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Bucky testing the carbon fibre baseplates
https://youtu.be/MYT3EFHOu24
I would be shocked if these actually made it to production, and aren't just some wild one offs for bucky.
Got word from my local that NHS is leaving distributors and only dealing direct, meaning Indy trucks will be out of inventory for shops that base their stock from East Coast Skate Supply. Not sure how many other distributors would be affected by this move.
Can you please explain why this will be the case? Can't shops just deal with Indy directly?
Serious question.
Another sign of a contracting industry sitting on tons and tons of unsold product.
Why would Indy going direct be a sign of this?
Another serious question.
Maybe I'm just slow today or something lol.
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Bucky testing the carbon fibre baseplates
https://youtu.be/MYT3EFHOu24
i just want some magnesium independents
i would buy the tensor maglights, but im not willing to get truck madness
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Got word from my local that NHS is leaving distributors and only dealing direct, meaning Indy trucks will be out of inventory for shops that base their stock from East Coast Skate Supply. Not sure how many other distributors would be affected by this move.
Can you please explain why this will be the case? Can't shops just deal with Indy directly?
Serious question.
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Another sign of a contracting industry sitting on tons and tons of unsold product.
Why would Indy going direct be a sign of this?
Another serious question.
Maybe I'm just slow today or something lol.
Did I hear that they had minimum order quantities and had to order a box of each truck at a time, more so than smaller number mix and match, or was that only here in AU at one point?
This is mainly to get the maximum number of trucks out there, so some smaller shops can't just order a few of each and have to order 20 sets minimum of each size they want.
Sounded similar to what certain big shoe brands were doing too, with minimum orders otherwise the whole order was just dropped - something about not worth their time dealing with small fish, in not so many words.
Also when brands or distributors do something like that, they don't have to sell at wholesaler discount prices, just so the middle man smaller wholesaler can make money too, so if they sell direct to a shop the product costs $10 per unit, but if they sell to the middle distro, they only get $6 per unit, based on the bulk deal discount sort of thing, as the middle wholesaler buys 1000 units, not just 10 or 100.
Hopefully that makes sense, but all of that is just speculation going by what I have heard from others in similar situations over the years, both in person and on here.
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Bucky testing the carbon fibre baseplates
https://youtu.be/MYT3EFHOu24
I would be shocked if these actually made it to production, and aren't just some wild one offs for bucky.
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Got word from my local that NHS is leaving distributors and only dealing direct, meaning Indy trucks will be out of inventory for shops that base their stock from East Coast Skate Supply. Not sure how many other distributors would be affected by this move.
Can you please explain why this will be the case? Can't shops just deal with Indy directly?
Serious question.
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Another sign of a contracting industry sitting on tons and tons of unsold product.
Why would Indy going direct be a sign of this?
Another serious question.
Maybe I'm just slow today or something lol.
That 720 was fucked
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Got word from my local that NHS is leaving distributors and only dealing direct, meaning Indy trucks will be out of inventory for shops that base their stock from East Coast Skate Supply. Not sure how many other distributors would be affected by this move.
Can you please explain why this will be the case? Can't shops just deal with Indy directly?
Serious question.
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Another sign of a contracting industry sitting on tons and tons of unsold product.
Why would Indy going direct be a sign of this?
Another serious question.
Maybe I'm just slow today or something lol.
Shops not going direct means that there is another shop or shops in the area that already have an NHS account. NHS, Deluxe, and I’m sure other distributions won’t open new accounts when they already sell to other shops in the same area. They don’t want to open an new account just to make money, because it would push off their existing accounts
NHS going direct can’t be a sign of “tons unsold product.” If that was the case, wouldn’t it make sense to keep unloading product to 3rd parties, like South Shore and Eastern Board Supply?
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Rainy days got my truck madness acting up again, long time Venture rider thinking of trying Indy Mid Forged Hollow and get low (50.5mm). I know the IKP and baseplate will loosen with time, planning to swap to a regular kingpin and forged baseplate. Haven't rode Indys for close to 3 years because I'm not a fan of tall + heavy truck, the lower Indy has my attention which can compensate for the heavier (vs Venture / Thunder) truck?
Anyone rode the Mid Forged Hollow (or Mid Hollow) able to provide a review of what to expect?
Edit: closest truck I've ridden was Ace AF1 Low, loved the lower height but the twitchiness was more than I could handle. I had to adjust my feet position drastically on all my tricks and it was more than I could handle.
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Indy forged mids hollow are my favorite Indy; super snappy and quick…stage xi feel slow and tall these days (ti/forged).
I keep saying it, but “legendary geo” isn’t the same as stage xi (or they’d be labeled as stage xi) and switching hangers/plates don’t synch up…
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Rainy days got my truck madness acting up again, long time Venture rider thinking of trying Indy Mid Forged Hollow and get low (50.5mm). I know the IKP and baseplate will loosen with time, planning to swap to a regular kingpin and forged baseplate. Haven't rode Indys for close to 3 years because I'm not a fan of tall + heavy truck, the lower Indy has my attention which can compensate for the heavier (vs Venture / Thunder) truck?
Anyone rode the Mid Forged Hollow (or Mid Hollow) able to provide a review of what to expect?
Edit: closest truck I've ridden was Ace AF1 Low, loved the lower height but the twitchiness was more than I could handle. I had to adjust my feet position drastically on all my tricks and it was more than I could handle.
Not sure about the forged mid, but regular Mids are heavier than even standard Indys. IMHO, the best Indys are the regular forged hollows or Ti (if you want to go light), coming in at 53.5mm. If memory serves correct, Indy Ti are lighter than Thunder Teams, for whatever that’s worth.
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Rainy days got my truck madness acting up again, long time Venture rider thinking of trying Indy Mid Forged Hollow and get low (50.5mm). I know the IKP and baseplate will loosen with time, planning to swap to a regular kingpin and forged baseplate. Haven't rode Indys for close to 3 years because I'm not a fan of tall + heavy truck, the lower Indy has my attention which can compensate for the heavier (vs Venture / Thunder) truck?
Anyone rode the Mid Forged Hollow (or Mid Hollow) able to provide a review of what to expect?
Edit: closest truck I've ridden was Ace AF1 Low, loved the lower height but the twitchiness was more than I could handle. I had to adjust my feet position drastically on all my tricks and it was more than I could handle.
Not sure about the forged mid, but regular Mids are heavier than even standard Indys. IMHO, the best Indys are the regular forged hollows or Ti (if you want to go light), coming in at 53.5mm. If memory serves correct, Indy Ti are lighter than Thunder Teams, for whatever that’s worth.
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 V-Hollow - 338.5g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 320g)
Thunder 149 Hollow Lights - 323g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 300g)
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Rainy days got my truck madness acting up again, long time Venture rider thinking of trying Indy Mid Forged Hollow and get low (50.5mm). I know the IKP and baseplate will loosen with time, planning to swap to a regular kingpin and forged baseplate. Haven't rode Indys for close to 3 years because I'm not a fan of tall + heavy truck, the lower Indy has my attention which can compensate for the heavier (vs Venture / Thunder) truck?
Anyone rode the Mid Forged Hollow (or Mid Hollow) able to provide a review of what to expect?
Edit: closest truck I've ridden was Ace AF1 Low, loved the lower height but the twitchiness was more than I could handle. I had to adjust my feet position drastically on all my tricks and it was more than I could handle.
Not sure about the forged mid, but regular Mids are heavier than even standard Indys. IMHO, the best Indys are the regular forged hollows or Ti (if you want to go light), coming in at 53.5mm. If memory serves correct, Indy Ti are lighter than Thunder Teams, for whatever that’s worth.
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 V-Hollow - 338.5g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 320g)
Thunder 149 Hollow Lights - 323g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 300g)
I would never consider Tactics tech spec reliable w/o independent (no pun intended) verification. They often post inaccurate info.
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Rainy days got my truck madness acting up again, long time Venture rider thinking of trying Indy Mid Forged Hollow and get low (50.5mm). I know the IKP and baseplate will loosen with time, planning to swap to a regular kingpin and forged baseplate. Haven't rode Indys for close to 3 years because I'm not a fan of tall + heavy truck, the lower Indy has my attention which can compensate for the heavier (vs Venture / Thunder) truck?
Anyone rode the Mid Forged Hollow (or Mid Hollow) able to provide a review of what to expect?
Edit: closest truck I've ridden was Ace AF1 Low, loved the lower height but the twitchiness was more than I could handle. I had to adjust my feet position drastically on all my tricks and it was more than I could handle.
Not sure about the forged mid, but regular Mids are heavier than even standard Indys. IMHO, the best Indys are the regular forged hollows or Ti (if you want to go light), coming in at 53.5mm. If memory serves correct, Indy Ti are lighter than Thunder Teams, for whatever that’s worth.
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 V-Hollow - 338.5g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 320g)
Thunder 149 Hollow Lights - 323g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 300g)
I would never consider Tactics tech spec reliable w/o independent (no pun intended) verification. They often post inaccurate info.
And sometimes it's like WILDLY inaccurate, like they dont have a legit value, so they just put whatever in the field.
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Rainy days got my truck madness acting up again, long time Venture rider thinking of trying Indy Mid Forged Hollow and get low (50.5mm). I know the IKP and baseplate will loosen with time, planning to swap to a regular kingpin and forged baseplate. Haven't rode Indys for close to 3 years because I'm not a fan of tall + heavy truck, the lower Indy has my attention which can compensate for the heavier (vs Venture / Thunder) truck?
Anyone rode the Mid Forged Hollow (or Mid Hollow) able to provide a review of what to expect?
Edit: closest truck I've ridden was Ace AF1 Low, loved the lower height but the twitchiness was more than I could handle. I had to adjust my feet position drastically on all my tricks and it was more than I could handle.
Not sure about the forged mid, but regular Mids are heavier than even standard Indys. IMHO, the best Indys are the regular forged hollows or Ti (if you want to go light), coming in at 53.5mm. If memory serves correct, Indy Ti are lighter than Thunder Teams, for whatever that’s worth.
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 V-Hollow - 338.5g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 320g)
Thunder 149 Hollow Lights - 323g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 300g)
I would never consider Tactics tech spec reliable w/o independent (no pun intended) verification. They often post inaccurate info.
And sometimes it's like WILDLY inaccurate, like they dont have a legit value, so they just put whatever in the field.
Took out the weighing scale to verify:
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 TI - 321g
Thunder 149 TI - 313g
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Rainy days got my truck madness acting up again, long time Venture rider thinking of trying Indy Mid Forged Hollow and get low (50.5mm). I know the IKP and baseplate will loosen with time, planning to swap to a regular kingpin and forged baseplate. Haven't rode Indys for close to 3 years because I'm not a fan of tall + heavy truck, the lower Indy has my attention which can compensate for the heavier (vs Venture / Thunder) truck?
Anyone rode the Mid Forged Hollow (or Mid Hollow) able to provide a review of what to expect?
Edit: closest truck I've ridden was Ace AF1 Low, loved the lower height but the twitchiness was more than I could handle. I had to adjust my feet position drastically on all my tricks and it was more than I could handle.
Not sure about the forged mid, but regular Mids are heavier than even standard Indys. IMHO, the best Indys are the regular forged hollows or Ti (if you want to go light), coming in at 53.5mm. If memory serves correct, Indy Ti are lighter than Thunder Teams, for whatever that’s worth.
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 V-Hollow - 338.5g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 320g)
Thunder 149 Hollow Lights - 323g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 300g)
I would never consider Tactics tech spec reliable w/o independent (no pun intended) verification. They often post inaccurate info.
And sometimes it's like WILDLY inaccurate, like they dont have a legit value, so they just put whatever in the field.
Took out the weighing scale to verify:
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 TI - 321g
Thunder 149 TI - 313g
Thank you for your service
edit: going to add this to the first post
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Rainy days got my truck madness acting up again, long time Venture rider thinking of trying Indy Mid Forged Hollow and get low (50.5mm). I know the IKP and baseplate will loosen with time, planning to swap to a regular kingpin and forged baseplate. Haven't rode Indys for close to 3 years because I'm not a fan of tall + heavy truck, the lower Indy has my attention which can compensate for the heavier (vs Venture / Thunder) truck?
Anyone rode the Mid Forged Hollow (or Mid Hollow) able to provide a review of what to expect?
Edit: closest truck I've ridden was Ace AF1 Low, loved the lower height but the twitchiness was more than I could handle. I had to adjust my feet position drastically on all my tricks and it was more than I could handle.
Not sure about the forged mid, but regular Mids are heavier than even standard Indys. IMHO, the best Indys are the regular forged hollows or Ti (if you want to go light), coming in at 53.5mm. If memory serves correct, Indy Ti are lighter than Thunder Teams, for whatever that’s worth.
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 V-Hollow - 338.5g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 320g)
Thunder 149 Hollow Lights - 323g (Tactics doesn't have the TI in stock, should be closer to 300g)
I would never consider Tactics tech spec reliable w/o independent (no pun intended) verification. They often post inaccurate info.
And sometimes it's like WILDLY inaccurate, like they dont have a legit value, so they just put whatever in the field.
Took out the weighing scale to verify:
Indy 149 Mid - 409g
Indy 149 Standard - 394g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow - 392g
Indy 149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
Indy 149 Hollow - 369g
Indy 149 Hollow Forged - 358g
Indy 149 TI - 340g
Venture 5.8 TI - 321g
Thunder 149 TI - 313g
Thank you for your service
No wonder I had issues with the Ti Thunders being used to Indy Standards and Ace Classics. They felt way too light for me but I didn’t figure the difference would have been this big. :o
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Now we just need to add the various Thunder/venture variants and sticky this weight list in the truck thread
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The "best truck" argument will go until the end of time.
but the best truck THREAD argument has a clear winner here.
Just look at our lovely, informative first post.
a thing of beauty.
thanks everyone who submitted info so far. @rocklobster was most recent with his weight list.
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My personal measurements of 144s…
Forged Hollow: 359g*
Ti: 333g
CORRECTION EDIT: The Forged Hollow weight listed above is for 149s, not 144s.
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My personal measurements of 144s…
Forged Hollow: 359g
Ti: 333g
will add these too, thanks.
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I have mid hollows, forged mid hollows and standard hollows. The forged and standard feel the same other than the lower height, turn is great for both, running 54s on all. Mid hollows were heavier feeling and the turn felt more sluggish yet twitchy once it does turn. Hope it helps.
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My personal measurements of 144s…
Forged Hollow: 359g
Ti: 333g
will add these too, thanks.
Brah this would mean 144 forged hollows are one gram heavier than 149 forged hollows. That can‘t be true.
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My personal measurements of 144s…
Forged Hollow: 359g
Ti: 333g
will add these too, thanks.
Brah this would mean 144 forged hollows are one gram heavier than 149 forged hollows. That can‘t be true.
And what’s the source for the other? Tactics? A place known to have misinformation. Mine could certainly be off…but tactics is not really reliable.
EDIT: I don't have a new set of forged 144s around. I do, however, have an almost new (skated twice) set of forged Hawk 149s. I just weighed those on my scale, looked at the Indy site, and Tactics. Results below:
My scale: 357g
Indy Site: 358g
Tactics: 354.6
Two take a-ways: First, I checked back on my notes; I was wrong. My previous notes for forged hollow/359g weight was indeed for 149s, and not 144s. I stand corrected. Second, Tactics cannot be relied on for accurate info.
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Does anyone know what the numbers on the inside of the hanger against the bushing represent?
I have two sets of slightly older trucks, pretty sure both of them are stage 10 but i don't know for certain. One has 'IIII' printed on the inside of the hanger and the other has 'IV'. They're definitely not stage 4s.
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I have mid hollows, forged mid hollows and standard hollows. The forged and standard feel the same other than the lower height, turn is great for both, running 54s on all. Mid hollows were heavier feeling and the turn felt more sluggish yet twitchy once it does turn. Hope it helps.
Mids are heavier than their equivalent counterparts due to the increased material on the hanger to allow for more grind clearance due to using a poor inverted kingpin design with old geo that doesn't really support it.
....and before anyone chimes it, Royal (hell I don't think even Krux did) didn't add more meat to the hanger...(maybe slappy did?) to support an IKP.
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I have mid hollows, forged mid hollows and standard hollows. The forged and standard feel the same other than the lower height, turn is great for both, running 54s on all. Mid hollows were heavier feeling and the turn felt more sluggish yet twitchy once it does turn. Hope it helps.
Mids are heavier than their equivalent counterparts due to the increased material on the hanger to allow for more grind clearance due to using a poor inverted kingpin design with old geo that doesn't really support it.
^ Perfectly stated.
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Does anyone know what the numbers on the inside of the hanger against the bushing represent?
I have two sets of slightly older trucks, pretty sure both of them are stage 10 but i don't know for certain. One has 'IIII' printed on the inside of the hanger and the other has 'IV'. They're definitely not stage 4s.
The numbers were the size of the truck before they did what Thunder has had for a long time, the actual number 149 on the edge of the hanger closest a wheel, and I think only on Stage 11s, but could have been on Stage 10, though I don't recall seeing any on previous stages.
On my trucks:
III 139
IV 149
V 159
VI 169
Then when 144s came out, they did IIII on them.
Now it is way easier to see on the end of the axles.
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Does anyone know what the numbers on the inside of the hanger against the bushing represent?
I have two sets of slightly older trucks, pretty sure both of them are stage 10 but i don't know for certain. One has 'IIII' printed on the inside of the hanger and the other has 'IV'. They're definitely not stage 4s.
The numbers were the size of the truck before they did what Thunder has had for a long time, the actual number 149 on the edge of the hanger closest a wheel, and I think only on Stage 11s, but could have been on Stage 10, though I don't recall seeing any on previous stages.
On my trucks:
III 139
IV 149
V 159
VI 169
Then when 144s came out, they did IIII on them.
Now it is way easier to see on the end of the axles.
Cool. Thanks.
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I have mid hollows, forged mid hollows and standard hollows. The forged and standard feel the same other than the lower height, turn is great for both, running 54s on all. Mid hollows were heavier feeling and the turn felt more sluggish yet twitchy once it does turn. Hope it helps.
Mids are heavier than their equivalent counterparts due to the increased material on the hanger to allow for more grind clearance due to using a poor inverted kingpin design with old geo that doesn't really support it.
^ Perfectly stated.
Thanks @Xen that's all I needed to keep the truck madness at bay for now, maybe I'll give the next revision of Mids a go or just stick to the classic Hollow Forged.
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
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I have mid hollows, forged mid hollows and standard hollows. The forged and standard feel the same other than the lower height, turn is great for both, running 54s on all. Mid hollows were heavier feeling and the turn felt more sluggish yet twitchy once it does turn. Hope it helps.
Mids are heavier than their equivalent counterparts due to the increased material on the hanger to allow for more grind clearance due to using a poor inverted kingpin design with old geo that doesn't really support it.
^ Perfectly stated.
Thanks @Xen that's all I needed to keep the truck madness at bay for now, maybe I'll give the next revision of Mids a go or just stick to the classic Hollow Forged.
Forged Hollow Mids are still my favorite feeling Indy tho. =)
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
You can get away with ace. Bushings compress over time, they would get close to Indy stock height.
Actually ace lows have the same height bottom bushings as Indy. Just looked.
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
Fairly sure Supercush
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I have mid hollows, forged mid hollows and standard hollows. The forged and standard feel the same other than the lower height, turn is great for both, running 54s on all. Mid hollows were heavier feeling and the turn felt more sluggish yet twitchy once it does turn. Hope it helps.
Mids are heavier than their equivalent counterparts due to the increased material on the hanger to allow for more grind clearance due to using a poor inverted kingpin design with old geo that doesn't really support it.
^ Perfectly stated.
Thanks @Xen that's all I needed to keep the truck madness at bay for now, maybe I'll give the next revision of Mids a go or just stick to the classic Hollow Forged.
Forged Hollow Mids are still my favorite feeling Indy tho. =)
Even with the loose kingpin issue? Or did you use Loctite on that?
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
Fairly sure Supercush
Supercush were definitely intended as an all around bushing when they first came out and might be the first after market bushing made for skating. They also may have been Deluxe's first product? Another old head will have to set me straight if I have that wrong.
Have they always kept the same shape? I know nowadays they are more aimed at the Venture market. In any case, they are pretty tough to find these days so I am not sure if they are sold out with more on the way or just not a priority for DLX or what?
RipTide has two different formulas (not sure of the difference) but they make a really high quality bushing, even if it's nearly twice the price of Bones.
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
I replaced a set of old, blown on Indy bushings with some Ace Classic bushings which were laying around after they warrantied my trucks, and they work great. I'll admit they're the trucks I skate the least (because I just don't ride 149s very often), but I've had those bushings in there for probably two years now and I am always impressed with how well the trucks skate.
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
I replaced a set of old, blown on Indy bushings with some Ace Classic bushings which were laying around after they warrantied my trucks, and they work great. I'll admit they're the trucks I skate the least (because I just don't ride 149s very often), but I've had those bushings in there for probably two years now and I am always impressed with how well the trucks skate.
I've considered trying the ace hard bushings in my 149s.
I think they look nice vs the indy black bushings i ride, and from what I've gathered Ace bushings seem to be higher quality.
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
I replaced a set of old, blown on Indy bushings with some Ace Classic bushings which were laying around after they warrantied my trucks, and they work great. I'll admit they're the trucks I skate the least (because I just don't ride 149s very often), but I've had those bushings in there for probably two years now and I am always impressed with how well the trucks skate.
I've considered trying the ace hard bushings in my 149s.
I think they look nice vs the indy black bushings i ride, and from what I've gathered Ace bushings seem to be higher quality.
There's no question that they're significantly more durable. The bushings themselves are probably 4 years old at this point. I actually like the Indy bushings but they will almost always blow out for me within a year.
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
I replaced a set of old, blown on Indy bushings with some Ace Classic bushings which were laying around after they warrantied my trucks, and they work great. I'll admit they're the trucks I skate the least (because I just don't ride 149s very often), but I've had those bushings in there for probably two years now and I am always impressed with how well the trucks skate.
I've considered trying the ace hard bushings in my 149s.
I think they look nice vs the indy black bushings i ride, and from what I've gathered Ace bushings seem to be higher quality.
There's no question that they're significantly more durable. The bushings themselves are probably 4 years old at this point. I actually like the Indy bushings but they will almost always blow out for me within a year.
I've seen people with blown out indy bushings, but they're usually the standard orange ones. The hard blacks hold up pretty good, but my issue is mainly with how sensitive they are to temperature. I hear the ace bushings arent as sensitive, but idk.
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Ace bushings are very sensitive. They are triggered very easily. You know, as a newer company they don't have the life experience like Indy does. Don't get me started on Krux bushings, they are out to cancel everyone.
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Ace bushings are very sensitive. They are triggered very easily. You know, as a newer company they don't have the life experience like Indy does. Don't get me started on Krux bushings, they are out to cancel everyone.
Ace aren't a new company. And the owners have been around trucks a long long time and were involved in a lot of design work with Venture and Thunder.
Krux bushings are great.
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Ace bushings are very sensitive. They are triggered very easily. You know, as a newer company they don't have the life experience like Indy does. Don't get me started on Krux bushings, they are out to cancel everyone.
(https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/facebook/001/572/551/3b1.jpg)
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I have mid hollows, forged mid hollows and standard hollows. The forged and standard feel the same other than the lower height, turn is great for both, running 54s on all. Mid hollows were heavier feeling and the turn felt more sluggish yet twitchy once it does turn. Hope it helps.
Mids are heavier than their equivalent counterparts due to the increased material on the hanger to allow for more grind clearance due to using a poor inverted kingpin design with old geo that doesn't really support it.
^ Perfectly stated.
Thanks @Xen that's all I needed to keep the truck madness at bay for now, maybe I'll give the next revision of Mids a go or just stick to the classic Hollow Forged.
Forged Hollow Mids are still my favorite feeling Indy tho. =)
Even with the loose kingpin issue? Or did you use Loctite on that?
I've never noticed it happening...I don't OCD draw lines on my IKP...I tighten and loosen on the regular depending on what I'm skating so it's a non-issue (on any truck). I'm also using low ace tops so I know I have more threads than usual anyway.
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I mostly noticed it because one truck did it more than the other (back truck). All of a sudden I go to skate switch or fakie and I'm fucking swerving worse than a Chad driving back to the frat house after thirsty thursdays.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CoIJqfaJMYb/
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
Fairly sure Supercush
Supercush work perfect. IMO upgrade to stock, look/perform better than Bones.
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
DLX Supercush are great in Indys (clear 88A for me).
The other rec I have is Riptide, particularly the APS formula, and mainly for cold weather. I have the orange 80A and they’re super squirrely at first, but they firm up nicely. Keeps my cruisers surfy in the winter. I’ve also tried the yellow 90A in the summer and liked those as well. Nice and loose through the middle, but they firm up at the end so you can really lean on them without getting much wheelbite.
The shapes you want are “street barrel” for the bottom and “short street cone” for the top.
The Krank formula (their formula intended for street skating) is good, too, but it’s a little firmer feeling in general and there are fewer color/duro options.
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Ace bushings are very sensitive. They are triggered very easily. You know, as a newer company they don't have the life experience like Indy does. Don't get me started on Krux bushings, they are out to cancel everyone.
(https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/facebook/001/572/551/3b1.jpg)
amazing <3
Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
@yourbreakfsat riptide has bushings for Indys
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
I've used Thunder bushings in Indys and had no problems.
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I'm tempted to get the stage 4 Indys with the inverted kingpin
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I'm tempted to get the stage 4 Indys with the inverted kingpin
But that's not a thing?
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I'm tempted to get the stage 4 Indys with the inverted kingpin
But that's not a thing?
I'll just have to buy the inverted kingpin baseplate
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I'm tempted to get the stage 4 Indys with the inverted kingpin
But that's not a thing?
Supposedly they are not compatible and that would defeat the point of the Stage 4 reissue. You'd better off converting some Stage 11s.
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You don’t understand…..
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Aside from Independent and Bones, what aftermarket bushings work with Independent that doesn't require modification? IE bushings that are the same height and don't need sanding down, adding/removing cupwashers, etc. Would be good to know in case there's some weird reason I can't get Indy or Bones bushings.
I'm using mini logo bushing and they work fine. I imagine thunder bushing would work as I'm using indy bushings and thunders on another set up.
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For what it’s worth, the 215 hanger fits fine on the IKP plate if you’re feeling spicy enough to defy the SLAP Nostalgia Police on these Stage IVs.
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I'm tempted to get the stage 4 Indys with the inverted kingpin
But that's not a thing?
Supposedly they are not compatible and that would defeat the point of the Stage 4 reissue. You'd better off converting some Stage 11s.
I didn't go looking for it again, but I thought the NHS / Indy media release specifically said the new Stage IV reissue trucks are not compatible with the current Stage XI trucks for hangers, baseplates or associated parts, including the aftermarket stand alone inverted kingpin kit.
Of course that doesn't mean you can't buy them and try it.
Who knows, stranger things happen.
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I'm tempted to get the stage 4 Indys with the inverted kingpin
But that's not a thing?
Supposedly they are not compatible and that would defeat the point of the Stage 4 reissue. You'd better off converting some Stage 11s.
I didn't go looking for it again, but I thought the NHS / Indy media release specifically said the new Stage IV reissue trucks are not compatible with the current Stage XI trucks for hangers, baseplates or associated parts, including the aftermarket stand alone inverted kingpin kit.
Of course that doesn't mean you can't buy them and try it.
Who knows, stranger things happen.
they did/do say they are not compatible. people still frankentruck shit i wouldn't ever mess with. i'm sure they'll do these also.
i'm pro gather the pitchforks and torches on the frankentruckers. that's how you end up with tielite's, monsters, ect....
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the incompatibility was noted earlier in this thread (NHS quote) but yeah, I bet you could do it but i'd encourage anyone who gets a pair to try them as is first to experience some classic Indy geometry before messing with them too much.
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What's the big difference(s) between the upcoming Stage 4s and the existing Stage 11s?
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What's the big difference(s) between the upcoming Stage 4s and the existing Stage 11s?
Quite a few things, but the easiest to see is the earlier stages have way more T looking hanger, very much like the current 215s, whereas the normal Stage 11, 10, 9s all have a much more defined and rounded looking hanger.
Other things include the geometry, so they turn differently, bushing height, kingpin height, and more.
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Independent Stage 4 Trucks will be available on Skate Shop Day, Saturday, February 18th 2023 exclusively in select skate shops. Available on NHS Skate Direct in June 2023.
An update of the original Stage 4, single wing hanger design introduced in 1986.
The new Stage 4 features the original Stage 4, single wing hanger design on a universal 6 hole baseplate. With tried and true, classic Indy geometry - Stage 4s are super quick and responsive. Fitted with perfectly sized, original cushions for superior stability, rebound, and snap.
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Sizes available: 136mm (8.0in), 146mm (8.375in), 151mm (8.625in), 166mm (9.0in)
55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
A356 T6 Aluminum Hanger & Baseplate
The best lightweight aluminum alloy heat treated to T6 condition for strength, durability, and grind feel.
SCM435 Chromoly Steel Axle
Highest quality and durability available.
Grade 8 Kingpin
Never break, never bend.
90a Original Cushions w/ printed bar logo
Ultra high-rebound formula, sized to fit Stages 1 to 7.
6 hole, universal baseplate with old and new school mounting patterns.
Independent Trucks are Built to Grind and Guaranteed for Life.
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My guess... a quicker, deeper turn, like Ace will be the main attraction with an eye pleasing retro-aesthetic.
I'm also guessing they will be a heavier truck that you can use on old and current hardware spacing. If you're not nostalgic or curious about classic indy geometry you probably don't need to try them.
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I really enjoy how my set of 215s ride, so if I can get that in a size for an 8.25, I’d be sold.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
Oh so the inverted grind king pin didn't work out so now Indys ripping off Ace after they became one of the bigboys in the truck game.
Maybe they should have let Joey Tershay create a truck 15 years ago instead of playing catch-up.
Removing that Indy cross is admitting it was always racist
What a absolute joke of a company.
**In before ACE IS JUST A STAGE 5 INDY**
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
OH SHIT! POP POP!
Indy going for the throat!
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Whoever gets these first needs to come forward and SPILL THE FRIGGIN BEANS. especially if you have experience on aces/af1's
Trying to decide if I should swap my pair of cruisers from ace/AF1 to some 109s and these new stage 4's
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"Guaranteed for life" my ass. My axle broke in half and I emailed NHS and all they did was link me to their "warranty" website where it says skate gear is only under warranty for 120 days.
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"Guaranteed for life" my ass. My axle broke in half and I emailed NHS and all they did was link me to their "warranty" website where it says skate gear is only under warranty for 120 days.
I always thought that was bullshit tbh. Wouldnt that mean you could just buy one pair of trucks and keep getting new ones forever once you destroyed the pair you were on?
Also, pics of snapped axel plz.
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"Guaranteed for life" my ass. My axle broke in half and I emailed NHS and all they did was link me to their "warranty" website where it says skate gear is only under warranty for 120 days.
I always thought that was bullshit tbh. Wouldnt that mean you could just buy one pair of trucks and keep getting new ones forever once you destroyed the pair you were on?
Also, pics of snapped axel plz.
Nah, they’re only warranted against production fuckups. They won’t replace them if you’ve already front crooked your way through half the truck.
Hanger nubs falling off, axel slip and stuff like that.
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"Guaranteed for life" my ass. My axle broke in half and I emailed NHS and all they did was link me to their "warranty" website where it says skate gear is only under warranty for 120 days.
I always thought that was bullshit tbh. Wouldnt that mean you could just buy one pair of trucks and keep getting new ones forever once you destroyed the pair you were on?
Also, pics of snapped axel plz.
Hanger nubs falling off, axel slip and stuff like that.
I guess my issue with that is that after a while it becomes pretty hard to distinguish between a manufacturer defect and normal wear and tear.
i mean what if your axel slips shortly after grinding down to it?
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"Guaranteed for life" my ass. My axle broke in half and I emailed NHS and all they did was link me to their "warranty" website where it says skate gear is only under warranty for 120 days.
I always thought that was bullshit tbh. Wouldnt that mean you could just buy one pair of trucks and keep getting new ones forever once you destroyed the pair you were on?
Also, pics of snapped axel plz.
Hanger nubs falling off, axel slip and stuff like that.
I guess my issue with that is that after a while it becomes pretty hard to distinguish between a manufacturer defect and normal wear and tear.
i mean what if your axel slips shortly after grinding down to it?
LOL
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I wonder what their return policy is on cancellation because I have a few Indy cross t-shirts I have to take back…
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I wonder what their return policy is on cancellation because I have a few Indy cross t-shirts I have to take back…
for the sake of the thread, you should try to return them and see what happens.
best case scenario you get some free shirts
worst case, nothing really changes.
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"Guaranteed for life" my ass. My axle broke in half and I emailed NHS and all they did was link me to their "warranty" website where it says skate gear is only under warranty for 120 days.
I always thought that was bullshit tbh. Wouldnt that mean you could just buy one pair of trucks and keep getting new ones forever once you destroyed the pair you were on?
Also, pics of snapped axel plz.
Hanger nubs falling off, axel slip and stuff like that.
I guess my issue with that is that after a while it becomes pretty hard to distinguish between a manufacturer defect and normal wear and tear.
i mean what if your axel slips shortly after grinding down to it?
I think it's fair to say that is wear and tear.
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(https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5)
https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5
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(https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5)
https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5
Ti?
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Does locktite come in extra strength?
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(https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5)
https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5
Ti?
Yep.
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Does locktite come in extra strength?
yes, it's a red liquid instead of blue. its VERY hard to remove
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Gonna check with the local to see if they are getting any for SSD. I'll be surprised if they have heard of them. Likely June before I get to try the 146s.
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My local is getting them on SSD and holding a set of 151s and 166s for me. Have to decide which size, I really want.
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Red is basically permanent. You should almost never use it on anything. It can be removed if heated in some cases.
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Red is basically permanent. You should almost never use it on anything. It can be removed if heated in some cases.
Not knowing this, i used some on a lightswitch i installed in my van haha. i just figured it was better than the blue and i didnt know at the time how strong it was haha.
When i told my more mechanically inclined friend he got all wide eyed and said "welp, I hope you're ok with cutting that off if it ever breaks" lol
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
Oh so the inverted grind king pin didn't work out so now Indys ripping off Ace after they became one of the bigboys in the truck game.
Maybe they should have let Joey Tershay create a truck 15 years ago instead of playing catch-up.
Removing that Indy cross is admitting it was always racist
What a absolute joke of a company.
**In before ACE IS JUST A STAGE 5 INDY**
Tell us how you really feel
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
Oh so the inverted grind king pin didn't work out so now Indys ripping off Ace after they became one of the bigboys in the truck game.
Maybe they should have let Joey Tershay create a truck 15 years ago instead of playing catch-up.
Removing that Indy cross is admitting it was always racist
What a absolute joke of a company.
**In before ACE IS JUST A STAGE 5 INDY**
lol, that indy bringing a truck back into rotation got your butt all hurt like that, sorry dude.
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John Lucero has been skating the stage 4s.
(https://i.imgur.com/tLRSUeW.jpg)
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Those look beautiful on that specific setup. I understand these are a reissue and back then kingpin clearance sucked, but that's what I'm hung up on no pun intended. Truck madness wants me to buy 'em, but after grinding 'em down just a little bit...screech and I'll get pitched.
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(https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5)
https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5
Same thing happened to mine too. On 2 trucks.
I got a free TI pair for the first axle snap after 1 month, and another pair of forged hollows for the second TI snap after 6 months..
So now i have a pair of TI's and a pair of hollows laying arround. The shop just called their distribution and they send me new ones relatively fast..
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
Oh so the inverted grind king pin didn't work out so now Indys ripping off Ace after they became one of the bigboys in the truck game.
Maybe they should have let Joey Tershay create a truck 15 years ago instead of playing catch-up.
Removing that Indy cross is admitting it was always racist
What a absolute joke of a company.
**In before ACE IS JUST A STAGE 5 INDY**
lol, that indy bringing a truck back into rotation got your butt all hurt like that, sorry dude.
Who are these for?
People who already skate ACE or those guys who swore off Indy the moment they got rid of the ironcross.
It's embarrassing but Indy did put out a Mid truck that's heavier then a standard using 20 year old Grind King technology so I'm not expecting much from these new trucks.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
Oh so the inverted grind king pin didn't work out so now Indys ripping off Ace after they became one of the bigboys in the truck game.
Maybe they should have let Joey Tershay create a truck 15 years ago instead of playing catch-up.
Removing that Indy cross is admitting it was always racist
What a absolute joke of a company.
**In before ACE IS JUST A STAGE 5 INDY**
The new Louie Lopez truck come with an IKP, so I think are doing ok.
Also, the ACE truck is an Indy Stage 3, not Stage 5
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(https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5)
https://imgur.com/a/qIuisE5
I got a free TI pair for the first axle snap after 1 month, and another pair of forged hollows for the second TI snap after 6 months..
So now i have a pair of TI's and a pair of hollows laying arround. The shop just called their distribution and they send me new ones relatively fast..
So there is a known issue with a batch, or more than one batch of Ti axle Indy trucks from after 2020 manufacturing issues through to whenever and is still showing up in stock now (which may have been from back then, but who knows), with all of the broken ones being in that exact same situation, with every one I have seen or people who had them like that had a warranty claim and were provided with another replacement set of trucks, as almost all of them have still looked near new in terms of wear.
Sent you a message anyway.
Edit:
"Guaranteed for life" my ass. My axle broke in half and I emailed NHS and all they did was link me to their "warranty" website where it says skate gear is only under warranty for 120 days.
The "life" of a skateboard product is not to be confused with the "life" of a human or living thing, as the warranty for some things is only 30 days, or until a product is worn and well used.
That said, most places are pretty cool with something as long as there is not excessive wear, but for a company that seems to have had a lot of product faults and is bleeding funds on what could be said is the most expensive product in their range, I can see how they are becoming tighter on things like that. In no way does that excuse them from the fact that your trucks look barely used, so should be covered under warranty, within a reasonable timeframe, not years and years down the track, but I know the shop being the first point of call could have helped with that and then dealt with NHS directly about the problem.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
Oh so the inverted grind king pin didn't work out so now Indys ripping off Ace after they became one of the bigboys in the truck game.
Maybe they should have let Joey Tershay create a truck 15 years ago instead of playing catch-up.
Removing that Indy cross is admitting it was always racist
What a absolute joke of a company.
**In before ACE IS JUST A STAGE 5 INDY**
The new Louie Lopez truck come with an IKP, so I think are doing ok.
Also, the ACE truck is an Indy Stage 3, not Stage 5
The exodus happened because of moving manufacturing to China (and who knows what else), but it was not due to the removal of the cross.
Do you still wear your fuck the rest shirts and sip that bud out of a built to grind koozie? How butt hurt can you be?
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How on earth is Indy reissuing their own design ripping off or stealing from Ace?
So much anger over something you aren't required to buy.
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The thing that keeps me from jumping to Ace is the 52-53mm wheel clearance compared to the Indy standard of 56mm. I run 56mm+ usually, so it's a deal breaker. Maybe it's not as pronounced a difference as it seems on paper, but it does keep me from picking up a set on a whim.
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How on earth is Indy reissuing their own design ripping off or stealing from Ace?
So much anger over something you aren't required to buy.
he's from the indy insta comment sections, forgive him.
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The thing that keeps me from jumping to Ace is the 52-53mm wheel clearance compared to the Indy standard of 56mm. I run 56mm+ usually, so it's a deal breaker. Maybe it's not as pronounced a difference as it seems on paper, but it does keep me from picking up a set on a whim.
I run 56mm on my Ace w/ minimal wheelbite. No threads showing, stock bushings, about 165 lbs, no riser pads.
The sweep on Ace is shalllower, (more in towards the center, rather than up towards the deck.) I think this accounts for some of the extra clearance.
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How on earth is Indy reissuing their own design ripping off or stealing from Ace?
So much anger over something you aren't required to buy.
Ding ding ding, we have a winner
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
Oh so the inverted grind king pin didn't work out so now Indys ripping off Ace after they became one of the bigboys in the truck game.
Maybe they should have let Joey Tershay create a truck 15 years ago instead of playing catch-up.
Removing that Indy cross is admitting it was always racist
What a absolute joke of a company.
**In before ACE IS JUST A STAGE 5 INDY**
lol, that indy bringing a truck back into rotation got your butt all hurt like that, sorry dude.
I actually do wonder this. I think Indy might be misunderstanding the success of Ace as pent up demand for their old trucks instead of just a general lack of interest in Independent.
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ACE offered a solution to something that was missing. Sure, it was based of Stage III indys...because it turned better than stage X/XI or whatever was the stage when ACE came out.
I'm all for a faster turning Indy but not with shitass grind clearance, same old heft, and seemingly 'incompatible' with other indy products: Bushings/Plates); I'm not biting as they are not offering me anything I can't get from ACE...not if they were offering a hollow option, maybe.
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i'm totally trying them, but i'll try just about anything, once.
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The thing that keeps me from jumping to Ace is the 52-53mm wheel clearance compared to the Indy standard of 56mm. I run 56mm+ usually, so it's a deal breaker. Maybe it's not as pronounced a difference as it seems on paper, but it does keep me from picking up a set on a whim.
The sweep on Ace is shalllower, (more in towards the center, rather than up towards the deck.) I think this accounts for some of the extra clearance.
Exactly. Indys wheelbite sooner & easier than Aces do despite Aces being lower.
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ACE offered a solution to something that was missing. Sure, it was based of Stage III indys...because it turned better than stage X/XI or whatever was the stage when ACE came out.
I'm all for a faster turning Indy but not with shitass grind clearance, same old heft, and seemingly 'incompatible' with other indy products: Bushings/Plates); I'm not biting as they are not offering me anything I can't get from ACE...not if they were offering a hollow option, maybe.
You know that shit will come out during the holidays.
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https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent
Stage 4s are made with all modern materials and manufacturing processes - making them more durable and longer lasting than the originals or any imitation.
Never break, never bend.
Shots fired.
Oh so the inverted grind king pin didn't work out so now Indys ripping off Ace after they became one of the bigboys in the truck game.
Maybe they should have let Joey Tershay create a truck 15 years ago instead of playing catch-up.
Removing that Indy cross is admitting it was always racist
What a absolute joke of a company.
**In before ACE IS JUST A STAGE 5 INDY**
lol, that indy bringing a truck back into rotation got your butt all hurt like that, sorry dude.
I actually do wonder this. I think Indy might be misunderstanding the success of Ace as pent up demand for their old trucks instead of just a general lack of interest in Independent.
Sure there are some people that will never ride indys again, but there are just as many people (probably way more honestly) that never stopped riding them or would consider riding them now that theyve abandoned the cross logo.
And just judging by people's tendencies on the shoes and gear side of SLAP, I would also guss that many people will just try them out of curiosity. Independent is the biggest truck brand after all, and people are interested in their products. I think I would actually be MORE curious to ride these if I had swapped to aces "permanently". Personally I always run aces with risers so 55mm height seems better, and I would be curious to see how similar the aces actually were to old Indys since I never rode them. I started skating around 99-2000
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Based on the fact that the new Indy 215s are stage 4s that I've been riding for 10 months now, their bushings are fully compatible with the ACE AF1 bushings and its a good thing. Compared to the ACE, the new stage 4 turns better with less chance of wheelbite due to increased height of indys.
The only thing I don't like about the new indy stage 4 is the too soft bushings and small kinpin clearance, which is generally solved by grinding the top bushing and kingpin down to stage 11 size without noticeble effort to turning abbilities.
My experience said what stage4 hanger is fully compatible with IKP indy baseplate, only reason if its not compatible with old stage 11 baseplates is a shorter kingpin on old plates.
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Exactly. Indys wheelbite sooner & easier than Aces do despite Aces being lower.
This was not my experience with Ace trucks.
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Exactly. Indys wheelbite sooner & easier than Aces do despite Aces being lower.
This was not my experience with Ace trucks.
I think there might be kind of a breakpoint with wheel size where aces actually bite less due to their geo.
aces have a deeper turn, whereas indys will pinch sooner, when considering the full range of articulation.
However, since indys are taller they have more initial room before biting/pinching.
Wheel width and shape is also very important when considering this.
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Exactly. Indys wheelbite sooner & easier than Aces do despite Aces being lower.
This was not my experience with Ace trucks.
I think there might be kind of a breakpoint with wheel size where aces actually bite less due to their geo.
aces have a deeper turn, whereas indys will pinch sooner, when considering the full range of articulation.
However, since indys are taller they have more initial room before biting/pinching.
Wheel width and shape is also very important when considering this.
FWIW: I ride forged (less clearance than standard Indys) and 53mm Classics. Wheel bite was a problem for me with Aces.
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Exactly. Indys wheelbite sooner & easier than Aces do despite Aces being lower.
This was not my experience with Ace trucks.
I think there might be kind of a breakpoint with wheel size where aces actually bite less due to their geo.
aces have a deeper turn, whereas indys will pinch sooner, when considering the full range of articulation.
However, since indys are taller they have more initial room before biting/pinching.
Wheel width and shape is also very important when considering this.
FWIW: I ride forged (less clearance than standard Indys) and 53mm Classics. Wheel bite was a problem for me with Aces.
forged is still 1.5mm taller than ACE iirc.
generally speaking, aces just turn more. 2 threads showing on indy is WAY tighter than 2 threads showing on ACE. So that might be a factor too.
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forged is still 1.5mm taller than ACE iirc.
On their web site, Ace now claims their trucks are 53mm tall. For awhile Ace seemed to proudly state that their trucks were 52mm, “which is becoming the industry standard.” Then they quietly went up to 53mm. So, either the 52mm listing was incorrect, or they changed things w/o highlighting it.
They recently also removed the “Yes, Ace trucks are made in China” part from their site’s FAQ section.
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Exactly. Indys wheelbite sooner & easier than Aces do despite Aces being lower.
This was not my experience with Ace trucks.
I think there might be kind of a breakpoint with wheel size where aces actually bite less due to their geo.
aces have a deeper turn, whereas indys will pinch sooner, when considering the full range of articulation.
However, since indys are taller they have more initial room before biting/pinching.
Wheel width and shape is also very important when considering this.
FWIW: I ride forged (less clearance than standard Indys) and 53mm Classics. Wheel bite was a problem for me with Aces.
forged is still 1.5mm taller than ACE iirc.
generally speaking, aces just turn more. 2 threads showing on indy is WAY tighter than 2 threads showing on ACE. So that might be a factor too.
Aces have a straighter kingpin angle, so when they turn the rotation distance (around the kingpin) before they bite is longer. They also have a taller, harder top bushing than Indy so the return to center has more force. So depending on the circumstances, they can definitely bite less than Indy while still being lower.
Not trying to dispute Sedition, there are a bunch of other factors at play. Ace classics biting less for me might be due to the fact that I am old and uncoordinated, so the lower hight and stronger snap back keeps me balanced more. For someone lighter and skating different terrain, the extra distance of the Indy might be what it takes. IDK.
That being said, the soft AF-1 pivot cups are wheelbite hell for me and I can't ride them.
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forged is still 1.5mm taller than ACE iirc.
On their web site, Ace now claims their trucks are 53mm tall. For awhile Ace seemed to proudly state that their trucks were 52mm, “which is becoming the industry standard.” Then they quietly went up to 53mm. So, either the 52mm listing was incorrect, or they changed things w/o highlighting it.
They recently also removed the “Yes, Ace trucks are made in China” part from their site’s FAQ section.
ACE classics are 52mm tall
ACE AF1 are 53mm tall
It's almost like they are two completely different trucks.
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forged is still 1.5mm taller than ACE iirc.
On their web site, Ace now claims their trucks are 53mm tall. For awhile Ace seemed to proudly state that their trucks were 52mm, “which is becoming the industry standard.” Then they quietly went up to 53mm. So, either the 52mm listing was incorrect, or they changed things w/o highlighting it.
They recently also removed the “Yes, Ace trucks are made in China” part from their site’s FAQ section.
Knowing ACE, it was probably just incorrect lol
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Exactly. Indys wheelbite sooner & easier than Aces do despite Aces being lower.
This was not my experience with Ace trucks.
I think there might be kind of a breakpoint with wheel size where aces actually bite less due to their geo.
aces have a deeper turn, whereas indys will pinch sooner, when considering the full range of articulation.
However, since indys are taller they have more initial room before biting/pinching.
Wheel width and shape is also very important when considering this.
FWIW: I ride forged (less clearance than standard Indys) and 53mm Classics. Wheel bite was a problem for me with Aces.
forged is still 1.5mm taller than ACE iirc.
generally speaking, aces just turn more. 2 threads showing on indy is WAY tighter than 2 threads showing on ACE. So that might be a factor too.
Aces have a straighter kingpin angle, so when they turn the rotation distance (around the kingpin) before they bite is longer. They also have a taller, harder top bushing than Indy so the return to center has more force. So depending on the circumstances, they can definitely bite less than Indy while still being lower.
Not trying to dispute Sedition, there are a bunch of other factors at play. Ace classics biting less for me might be due to the fact that I am old and uncoordinated, so the lower hight and stronger snap back keeps me balanced more. For someone lighter and skating different terrain, the extra distance of the Indy might be what it takes. IDK.
That being said, the soft AF-1 pivot cups are wheelbite hell for me and I can't ride them.
great explanation, gnar'd
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Exactly. Indys wheelbite sooner & easier than Aces do despite Aces being lower.
This was not my experience with Ace trucks.
I think there might be kind of a breakpoint with wheel size where aces actually bite less due to their geo.
aces have a deeper turn, whereas indys will pinch sooner, when considering the full range of articulation.
However, since indys are taller they have more initial room before biting/pinching.
Wheel width and shape is also very important when considering this.
FWIW: I ride forged (less clearance than standard Indys) and 53mm Classics. Wheel bite was a problem for me with Aces.
forged is still 1.5mm taller than ACE iirc.
generally speaking, aces just turn more. 2 threads showing on indy is WAY tighter than 2 threads showing on ACE. So that might be a factor too.
Aces have a straighter kingpin angle, so when they turn the rotation distance (around the kingpin) before they bite is longer. They also have a taller, harder top bushing than Indy so the return to center has more force. So depending on the circumstances, they can definitely bite less than Indy while still being lower.
Not trying to dispute Sedition, there are a bunch of other factors at play. Ace classics biting less for me might be due to the fact that I am old and uncoordinated, so the lower hight and stronger snap back keeps me balanced more. For someone lighter and skating different terrain, the extra distance of the Indy might be what it takes. IDK.
That being said, the soft AF-1 pivot cups are wheelbite hell for me and I can't ride them.
AF-1 were what I had wheel bite problems with, too.
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AF-1 were what I had wheel bite problems with, too.
I have one line at my local park with a front 180 bowl transfer that I've been doing for years - mostly on Indy forged 149/159s. I had three bad bails on AF1 55s and 54 conicals where I had wheelbite on my tail heel side wheel that pitched me back/head first to the bottom. I'm 50 and don't feel like experimenting to find out how to not get the wheelbite on the AF1s. I just want to not get hurt. I have a setup with forged Thunder 149s and 54mm V1 Bones that I have been skating lately and have zero issues with them.
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Yeah, at 200lbs those AF-1 pivot cups are just too soft. Anyway, didn't mean to derail. Ace low bushings (the old ones, haven't tried the AF low) are amazing in Indys.
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Wondering why Indy went with the sizing they chose for the “new” Stage 4s. The OG 4s came in 159, 169 & 215.
Obvs, those sizes are on the larger end of the contemporary truck width spectrum, but why not make 139s & 149s instead of the in-between 136 & 146 sizes?
Were these in development so far back that they were trying to play catch-up w/ Ace by releasing similar sizes to the Ace Classic dims, or… ?
Also, can’t help but thinking the Stage 4 is a curious choice of a truck to release. IIRC, the Ace geometry is based of a Stage 3, so why not jump on THAT train, unless they’re trying to offer the final, most refined version of their “single wing” hanger design?
Further, the Stage 4 was a fairly short lived design, with an original release date (according to Indy) of March, ‘86. It was soon eclipsed by the “Hollow Body” Stage 5, which was released (again, according to Indy) in October of that same year (1986).
Why come they choose such a short lived design to highlight?
Or… maybe it’s precisely BECAUSE they were so short lived that they selected that model to reissue?
Whole lotta questions here, I know.
Thought I’d give y’all something to mull over today while at you toil away at work.
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I've had the same thoughts Lou. I would assume a Stage 3 or 5 would be the way to go. The Hollow Body Stage 5s were so sick when they came out. Who knows perhaps b/c 4s were the last before the hollow body?
I personally like some of the sizing. Its cool the axles are in-between the stage 11 sizes (on most). I like that the 149 is essentially split into two trucks an 8 3/8" and 8 5'8", but again you're right I don't think Stage 4s were sized that way.
Also, I wish they were made at Ermico. And I pray they won't have classic axle slip as well as classic geo.
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Wondering why Indy went with the sizing they chose for the “new” Stage 4s. The OG 4s came in 159, 169 & 215.
Obvs, those sizes are on the larger end of the contemporary truck width spectrum, but why not make 139s & 149s instead of the in-between 136 & 146 sizes?
Were these in development so far back that they were trying to play catch-up w/ Ace by releasing similar sizes to the Ace Classic dims, or… ?
Also, can’t help but thinking the Stage 4 is a curious choice of a truck to release. IIRC, the Ace geometry is based of a Stage 3, so why not jump on THAT train, unless they’re trying to offer the final, most refined version of their “single wing” hanger design?
Further, the Stage 4 was a fairly short lived design, with an original release date (according to Indy) of March, ‘86. It was soon eclipsed by the “Hollow Body” Stage 5, which was released (again, according to Indy) in October of that same year (1986).
Why come they choose such a short lived design to highlight?
Or… maybe it’s precisely BECAUSE they were so short lived that they selected that model to reissue?
Whole lotta questions here, I know.
Thought I’d give y’all something to mull over today while at you toil away at work.
A lot of really valid questions here. But playing catch-up with Ace…the company that took 10+ years to figure out standard sizes for trucks, that rest of the world figured out in the Bronze Age?
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Based on the fact that the new Indy 215s are stage 4s that I've been riding for 10 months now, their bushings are fully compatible with the ACE AF1 bushings and its a good thing. Compared to the ACE, the new stage 4 turns better with less chance of wheelbite due to increased height of indys.
But are they?
Listed under/as Stage XI, yet: Independent Trucks 215s feature a retro Stage IV style single wing hanger design
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-11-215-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent?variant=40118119596189
I don't even think NHS knows anymore. Like the mids, they're just franken'trucking us.
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Based on the fact that the new Indy 215s are stage 4s that I've been riding for 10 months now, their bushings are fully compatible with the ACE AF1 bushings and its a good thing. Compared to the ACE, the new stage 4 turns better with less chance of wheelbite due to increased height of indys.
But are they?
Listed under/as Stage XI, yet: Independent Trucks 215s feature a retro Stage IV style single wing hanger design
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-11-215-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent?variant=40118119596189
I don't even think NHS knows anymore. Like the mids, they're just franken'trucking us.
What I heard (and it may be bullshit) is that the 215 molds broke when they moved to China and they had to re-tool. At that time they modified them somewhat to the Stage XI geometry. I don't skate 215s and don't pay that much attention to them, so I have no idea if this is true.
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This question has probably been answered before but from an Indy newbie, i have some Krux bushings handy and was wondering if they would fit my 149 ti’s? The stocks feel ok with flush nuts but am considering switching them out to eliminate a bit of squirrely-ness?
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Based on the fact that the new Indy 215s are stage 4s that I've been riding for 10 months now, their bushings are fully compatible with the ACE AF1 bushings and its a good thing. Compared to the ACE, the new stage 4 turns better with less chance of wheelbite due to increased height of indys.
But are they?
Listed under/as Stage XI, yet: Independent Trucks 215s feature a retro Stage IV style single wing hanger design
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-11-215-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent?variant=40118119596189
I don't even think NHS knows anymore. Like the mids, they're just franken'trucking us.
What I heard (and it may be bullshit) is that the 215 molds broke when they moved to China and they had to re-tool. At that time they modified them somewhat to the Stage XI geometry. I don't skate 215s and don't pay that much attention to them, so I have no idea if this is true.
Sounds like Bullshit to me, either NHS didn't have the proper molds anymore (or they were fucked) or the foundry went "your molds broke due to age, we can remake them for you for $1MM...or you can use some of our knockoff molds we've been using to rip you off for years for $500KUS" or some shit.
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This question has probably been answered before but from an Indy newbie, i have some Krux bushings handy and was wondering if they would fit my 149 ti’s? The stocks feel ok with flush nuts but am considering switching them out to eliminate a bit of squirrely-ness?
They're close enough to work fine, but they might slightly affect your geo
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Based on the fact that the new Indy 215s are stage 4s that I've been riding for 10 months now, their bushings are fully compatible with the ACE AF1 bushings and its a good thing. Compared to the ACE, the new stage 4 turns better with less chance of wheelbite due to increased height of indys.
But are they?
Listed under/as Stage XI, yet: Independent Trucks 215s feature a retro Stage IV style single wing hanger design
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-11-215-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent?variant=40118119596189
I don't even think NHS knows anymore. Like the mids, they're just franken'trucking us.
What I heard (and it may be bullshit) is that the 215 molds broke when they moved to China and they had to re-tool. At that time they modified them somewhat to the Stage XI geometry. I don't skate 215s and don't pay that much attention to them, so I have no idea if this is true.
Sounds like Bullshit to me, either NHS didn't have the proper molds anymore (or they were fucked) or the foundry went "your molds broke due to age, we can remake them for you for $1MM...or you can use some of our knockoff molds we've been using to rip you off for years for $500KUS" or some shit.
Previous versions of this story included something about Ermico Enterprises either losing the molds or trying to sell the molds to Independent. I don't really buy any of them but that's been the chatter here before.
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Based on the fact that the new Indy 215s are stage 4s that I've been riding for 10 months now, their bushings are fully compatible with the ACE AF1 bushings and its a good thing. Compared to the ACE, the new stage 4 turns better with less chance of wheelbite due to increased height of indys.
But are they?
Listed under/as Stage XI, yet: Independent Trucks 215s feature a retro Stage IV style single wing hanger design
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-11-215-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent?variant=40118119596189
I don't even think NHS knows anymore. Like the mids, they're just franken'trucking us.
What I heard (and it may be bullshit) is that the 215 molds broke when they moved to China and they had to re-tool. At that time they modified them somewhat to the Stage XI geometry. I don't skate 215s and don't pay that much attention to them, so I have no idea if this is true.
Sounds like Bullshit to me, either NHS didn't have the proper molds anymore (or they were fucked) or the foundry went "your molds broke due to age, we can remake them for you for $1MM...or you can use some of our knockoff molds we've been using to rip you off for years for $500KUS" or some shit.
Previous versions of this story included something about Ermico Enterprises either losing the molds or trying to sell the molds to Independent. I don't really buy any of them but that's been the chatter here before.
Well this sure sounds like a bunch of unverifiable hearsay. If only someone could send a message, directly, to those with the first hand knowledge. And they could do it like a woman, wait no, like a man!
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This question has probably been answered before but from an Indy newbie, i have some Krux bushings handy and was wondering if they would fit my 149 ti’s? The stocks feel ok with flush nuts but am considering switching them out to eliminate a bit of squirrely-ness?
They're close enough to work fine, but they might slightly affect your geo
Thanks for the heads up
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What I heard (and it may be bullshit) is that the 215 molds broke when they moved to China and they had to re-tool. At that time they modified them somewhat to the Stage XI geometry. I don't skate 215s and don't pay that much attention to them, so I have no idea if this is true.
this is how i remember it, but i suffer from CRS. it's also why they were out of stock forever and going for twice as much on the used market for a little while..
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Saw this scrolling through IG
https://www.instagram.com/p/Coa9W-WPUnD/?igshid=NjcyZGVjMzk=
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^ His lost wheel post was hilarious.
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Saw this scrolling through IG
https://www.instagram.com/p/Coa9W-WPUnD/?igshid=NjcyZGVjMzk=
Sweet, he made them heavier!...
Seriously tho, the yoke looks pretty lined up (tho the angle is weird).
I wonder how close these feel to Mids...and how the bushings work with say mid hangers with stage 11 plates making the yoke/pin line up better.
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Saw this scrolling through IG
https://www.instagram.com/p/Coa9W-WPUnD/?igshid=NjcyZGVjMzk=
Sweet, he made them heavier!...
Seriously tho, the yoke looks pretty lined up (tho the angle is weird).
I wonder how close these feel to Mids...and how the bushings work with say mid hangers with stage 11 plates making the yoke/pin line up better.
Are we certain the IKP plate is heavier than the stage 4 plate?
But i agree, it all appears to be fine. i guess you cant tell how much/little the IKP is cranked down though
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Keeping in line with Ace…less AND more….keep trucks heavy…..
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Keeping in line with Ace…less AND more….keep trucks heavy…..
Damn, knocking off your own knock off, so meta
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Keeping in line with Ace…less AND more….keep trucks heavy…..
Damn, knocking off your own knock off, so meta
Tbh the trucks are so close to ACE I'm gonna buy a few sets. Something about that red bushings.
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Saw this scrolling through IG
https://www.instagram.com/p/Coa9W-WPUnD/?igshid=NjcyZGVjMzk=
Sweet, he made them heavier!...
Seriously tho, the yoke looks pretty lined up (tho the angle is weird).
I wonder how close these feel to Mids...and how the bushings work with say mid hangers with stage 11 plates making the yoke/pin line up better.
Are we certain the IKP plate is heavier than the stage 4 plate?
But i agree, it all appears to be fine. i guess you cant tell how much/little the IKP is cranked down though
The Shaft nut + IKP together are heavier, yes. Enough to notice? No.
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I've had the same thoughts Lou. I would assume a Stage 3 or 5 would be the way to go. The Hollow Body Stage 5s were so sick when they came out. Who knows perhaps b/c 4s were the last before the hollow body?
I personally like some of the sizing. Its cool the axles are in-between the stage 11 sizes (on most). I like that the 149 is essentially split into two trucks an 8 3/8" and 8 5'8", but again you're right I don't think Stage 4s were sized that way.
Also, I wish they were made at Ermico. And I pray they won't have classic axle slip as well as classic geo.
Share your thought on Ermico. My only beef was when they moved production overseas. While none of my new sets had issues, I would gladly pay a bit more to have em poured in Skateboarding’s Mecca than anywhere else. Always found that as part of the cache of Indy, much more than the cross.
I’m stoked on the stage 4, will catch a set. I admit it’ll be strange riding something that looks like an Ace as I’ve rode Indy since 99. I think it’s cool that they branched off the Indy tree to do their own thing and it’s cool to see a legit 4th contender for legit trucks.
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how are the conical indy aftermarkets? i like a surfy truck with a stable centre like the af1s? thinking bout running stock top bushing along with either a 88a or 78a bottom? 88a sounds about right but i've heard mixed opinions on the 88a reds
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how are the conical indy aftermarkets? i like a surfy truck with a stable centre like the af1s? thinking bout running stock top bushing along with either a 88a or 78a bottom? 88a sounds about right but i've heard mixed opinions on the 88a reds
The conical blue 92a Indy aftermarket bushings are really surfy and stable at the same time. I have one set of Indy’s with Ace bushings, and another set with the blue conicals. They feel pretty much the same, but I think the blues are slightly more stable. General consensus around here is that 88a red bushings are trash, but I’ve never tried them. I haven’t tried the white 78a either, but I’ve heard those are pretty useless if you are not a small child (instant wheelbite, no stability)
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Sounds like the white ones could be useful in my purple indys but the blue ones look cool. Currently just got classic orange 90a bushings on the rain set-up.
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The white 78A bushings are mad soft. Very twitchy. Not stable at all. Can be fun though if you like that but they do make skating much more difficult.
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Black bushing gang
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Saw this scrolling through IG
https://www.instagram.com/p/Coa9W-WPUnD/?igshid=NjcyZGVjMzk=
So you can put the IKP baseplate on them. I was curious to see if it would fit. Now I wanna try it.
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how are the conical indy aftermarkets? i like a surfy truck with a stable centre like the af1s? thinking bout running stock top bushing along with either a 88a or 78a bottom? 88a sounds about right but i've heard mixed opinions on the 88a reds
Adding this here too:
Yeah those older red ones were not 88 duro and felt more like 92 to 94 from the clear container.
Funny thing with a new set (not the cross logo, but the diamond logo packaging) but they were actually soft and worked well.
Maybe it was a manufacturing issue with the older ones or something, but the newer ones are a bit more shiny red and way softer than the older ones.
They still come in cylinder (firmer feeling) and conical (more turn) too.
(https://www.kickpush.com.au/assets/alt_1/121377.jpg)
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how are the conical indy aftermarkets? i like a surfy truck with a stable centre like the af1s? thinking bout running stock top bushing along with either a 88a or 78a bottom? 88a sounds about right but i've heard mixed opinions on the 88a reds
Conicals give you a pretty consistent, deep turn compared to the standard cylinders. They don't snap back to center as hard.
As far as duro it really depends on your weight as well as your preferences. IMO you should try to find whatever bushing feels the best when your kingpin nut is flush or closest to flush with your kingpin. That way your bushings aren't being compressed as much before turning, allowing them to preform more consistently/as intended. With the added benefit of looking nice too.
Black bushing gang
You know it!
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Nothing bounces back to center and turns as good as Ace standard duro bushings, imo. Indy aftermarket bushings are good for sure, they just don't feel as lively.
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This question has probably been answered before but from an Indy newbie, i have some Krux bushings handy and was wondering if they would fit my 149 ti’s? The stocks feel ok with flush nuts but am considering switching them out to eliminate a bit of squirrely-ness?
just put a new set of the white krux bushings in my Indy stage 8’s. they definitely have a taller bottom bushing than a stick indy. but I really like the way they skate so far. a tad bit harder than I’m used to (92a) but they’re solid feeling.
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Nothing bounces back to center and turns as good as Ace standard duro bushings, imo. Indy aftermarket bushings are good for sure, they just don't feel as lively.
This is mainly due to the harder top/softer bottom combo.
Both bushings are taller than indys too, the top bushing especially.
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Saw some Stage IV in person this weekend and the KP clearance is not good. The dude had a shaped board and I rode it briefly, but can't compare to Ace since I haven't ridden those in 4 years and to me they just felt like an Indy, which I haven't really ridden consistently since last July.
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Saw some Stage IV in person this weekend and the KP clearance is not good. The dude had a shaped board and I rode it briefly, but can't compare to Ace since I haven't ridden those in 4 years and to me they just felt like an Indy, which I haven't really ridden consistently since last July.
I mean I think Ace basically skate like an Indy in the first place, which is one reason why I am not jumping at the opportunity to skate these Stage IVs.
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Saw some Stage IV in person this weekend and the KP clearance is not good. The dude had a shaped board and I rode it briefly, but can't compare to Ace since I haven't ridden those in 4 years and to me they just felt like an Indy, which I haven't really ridden consistently since last July.
Yea, it looks pretty bad.
I dont even need/want them that badly, i just want to know what theyre like out of curiosity about indys old designs. really dont have much use/need for them.
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The white 78A bushings are mad soft. Very twitchy. Not stable at all. Can be fun though if you like that but they do make skating much more difficult.
I wouldn't suggest the 78a whites for anyone over 100lbs...even then maybe cap at 60lbs. They are, indeed, mad soft.
Nothing bounces back to center and turns as good as Ace standard duro bushings, imo. Indy aftermarket bushings are good for sure, they just don't feel as lively.
While I agree as I run ACE dual duro classics (low tops) in just about everything that comes stock with a barrel bottom, you can get the same effect using Dual Duro indy setups. 96a (yellow) top, stock orange bottom.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k__ggygJ8o8
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lkaoUhQLmg8
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Saw some Stage IV in person this weekend and the KP clearance is not good. The dude had a shaped board and I rode it briefly, but can't compare to Ace since I haven't ridden those in 4 years and to me they just felt like an Indy, which I haven't really ridden consistently since last July.
Yea, it looks pretty bad.
I dont even need/want them that badly, i just want to know what theyre like out of curiosity about indys old designs. really dont have much use/need for them.
I am assuming they are going to be heavy also.
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So the Stage IV is suppose to have a faster more direct turn? I was going to buy them for a cruiser setup, but now im not so sure. I prefer a more stable slow turn of the 11's then...
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The white 78A bushings are mad soft. Very twitchy. Not stable at all. Can be fun though if you like that but they do make skating much more difficult.
I wouldn't suggest the 78a whites for anyone over 100lbs...even then maybe cap at 60lbs. They are, indeed, mad soft.
I have a set of the hardest and the softest indy bushings from my bout with bushing madness. I've considered putting the soft whites on my polarizer. not sure if the hard yellows will ever get used. maybe the tops for a dual duro setup on something.
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I use whites on both my cruisers in older 149s and my 215s and I love them for that use - they’re reliably squishy
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So the Stage IV is suppose to have a faster more direct turn? I was going to buy them for a cruiser setup, but now im not so sure. I prefer a more stable slow turn of the 11's then...
Quicker and deeper.
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I use whites on both my cruisers in older 149s and my 215s and I love them for that use - they’re reliably squishy
I can see that making sense, i ollie too much on my cruisers for that though. you're really making me want to swap them on my polarizer now, but god damn i hate fucking with those trucks.
INDY! MAKE A DAMN POLARIZER TRUCK!
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I use whites on both my cruisers in older 149s and my 215s and I love them for that use - they’re reliably squishy
I can see that making sense, i ollie too much on my cruisers for that though. you're really making me want to swap them on my polarizer now, but god damn i hate fucking with those trucks.
INDY! MAKE A DAMN POLARIZER TRUCK!
DIY time
https://www.instagram.com/p/CluuoRFrZ6m/
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I use whites on both my cruisers in older 149s and my 215s and I love them for that use - they’re reliably squishy
I can see that making sense, i ollie too much on my cruisers for that though. you're really making me want to swap them on my polarizer now, but god damn i hate fucking with those trucks.
INDY! MAKE A DAMN POLARIZER TRUCK!
DIY time
https://www.instagram.com/p/CluuoRFrZ6m/
WOA! this is sick. gnar'd
dude in the comments said they used a lathe to shorten the hanger and just cut/rethreaded the axels.
that's awesome
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is anyone planning to pick these up from a shop on saturday?
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is anyone planning to pick these up from a shop on saturday?
The stage 4s? Yes. My local is saving me some 151s and 166s. Might surf Saturday so won't be able to pick them up until Sunday but I do plan on setting them up as soon as I get them.
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it's only available in US shops sadly
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is anyone planning to pick these up from a shop on saturday?
The stage 4s? Yes. My local is saving me some 151s and 166s. Might surf Saturday so won't be able to pick them up until Sunday but I do plan on setting them up as soon as I get them.
Please report back with the juicy deets! SLAP is counting on you
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I'm definitely going to try to scoop some up on Saturday. I love the way Indys grind and am satisfied with the way Stage 11s turn, but sometimes get a case of the wandering eye when I carve around on a friend's setup with Aces. Hoping these Stage IVs will check both boxes while also being the solution to all my life's problems. We'll just have to see about that suspect kingpin clearance. I manage to mash in the kingpin nut before setting a groove on new trucks as it is.
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I'm definitely going to try to scoop some up on Saturday. I love the way Indys grind and am satisfied with the way Stage 11s turn, but sometimes get a case of the wandering eye when I carve around on a friend's setup with Aces. Hoping these Stage IVs will check both boxes while also being the solution to all my life's problems. We'll just have to see about that suspect kingpin clearance. I manage to mash in the kingpin nut before setting a groove on new trucks as it is.
Is that too much to ask from a pair of skateboard trucks?
I dont think so
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Spencer Nuzzi on the Stage 4
https://youtu.be/iXiUNd3UXAA
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OK, got my hands on some stage 4 151s. Here's my pre-skate assessment:
Pretty much the same size as Ace AF1 60s, both having about a 153/ 154mm of hanger width.
The Indys are indeed taller and as we expected have less KP clearance.
They are also heavier. The AF1 60s I have came in at 406 grams (with just a little bit of wear) and the Indy 151s came in at 413 grams. Stage 11 159s are slightly wider and reportedly 402 gram, for comparison. So the Stage 4 reissue is certainly a heavy truck but again this was expected.
Next the Stage 4s bring the wheelbase in, even further than Ace. I haven't done the measurements but it looks pretty substantial.
Quality looks great. There is no way anyone is bending these fuckers. There is a tonne of meat under the hanger. The bushings feel like new Ace bushings. I'm sure they will firm up with use.
Based on what I am seeing so far, I bet they will turn as advertised but I might not get to actually skate them until Sunday so take all this with a grain of salt.
Edit* just went for a quick push around the block and holy shit these things turn fast... super quick and deep turn. Going to be very curious how they feel when actually skateboarding.
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thanks for the update.
my curiosity is kinda starting to eat at me now. might have to try these
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Sadly, the 136s intrigue me.
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Don't say I didn't warn you about weight and kingpin clearance. The only reason to get these trucks is to experience the 'classic' geometry, which may or may not suit you. Will report more when I get some grinds in.
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Don't say I didn't warn you about weight and kingpin clearance. The only reason to get these trucks is to experience the 'classic' geometry, which may or may not suit you. Will report more when I get some grinds in.
Yea, deff wouldnt get them for my regular board for those reasons.
But on my grimple football shape with dragon wheels....... sounds kinda fun
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What's it looking like under the baseplate? Will it hold a nut in there for inverted use or is it wider like stage 11's and require JB Weld?
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Maybe im biased becuase i've spent more time on indys overall (still ride/love aces on my cruisers) but i think the stage 4s look better than aces now that ive looked at them more and seen them from every angle.
can someone post some pics of the bottom of the baseplate for our IKP-curious friend @logjammin over here?
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Maybe im biased becuase i've spent more time on indys overall (still ride/love aces on my cruisers) but i think the stage 4s look better than aces now that ive looked at them more and seen them from every angle.
can someone post some pics of the bottom of the baseplate for our IKP-curious friend @logjammin over here?
I like the look of them better than the AF1's as well for whatever reason. Skip to 1:38 on the Nuzzi video and he's holding it with the underside of the baseplate showing. The geo would be kind of messed up, but I saw Chuck Hults is running the 4 hangers on the IKP baseplates, so if you're desperate for non-DIY clearance and just want the T-hanger aesthetic that'd be an option lol
good lookin out
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Stage X is my favourite.
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Stage X is my favourite.
Same
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I have a soft spot for stage 10s since they were my first indys.
terrible kingpin clearance though.
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True, I ground down the original kingpins and I was having trouble with the threads so I hammered them out and put in some new ones. I wonder if I could do rkp with them, I've never tried.
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Stopped by my local to drop off some used decks and got to see the stage 4s in person. Didn’t seem heavier than comparable sized standards and kingpin clearance is the same as the new 215s(non cross baseplates). With the nut flush to the top of the threads it was sitting about dead center of the axle. Sorry, didn’t pay attention to see if they had the hex pins or the new style. Also know what’s in the black bags for 2/18 now.
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What's it looking like under the baseplate? Will it hold a nut in there for inverted use or is it wider like stage 11's and require JB Weld?
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Maybe im biased becuase i've spent more time on indys overall (still ride/love aces on my cruisers) but i think the stage 4s look better than aces now that ive looked at them more and seen them from every angle.
can someone post some pics of the bottom of the baseplate for our IKP-curious friend @logjammin over here?
Skip to 1:38 on the Nuzzi video and he's holding it with the underside of the baseplate showing.
From that video with the red cover shot on the last page, as SBR said, about 1:38 it is exactly the same as current stage trucks in terms of how the baseplate holds the kingpin, so you would have to do the same thing with JB weld or other fix to convert these trucks.
Edit:
Thought it was easier to just take a screen shot of it.
(https://i.ibb.co/0mKDGpZ/Independent-S4-baseplate.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5GkMRXv)
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Next the Stage 4s bring the wheelbase in, even further than Ace. I haven't done the measurements but it looks pretty substantial.
That's interesting to hear. I lined the sample deck I set my 166 4's on up next to my old Heated Wheel with 66 AF1's (both boards have a 14.25" wb) and the axle to axle was pretty much identical. I also didn't notice that much of a weight gain over the AF1 hollows, but I also think that's because somehow the sample deck feels lighter because it has less of a taper and the weight is distributed a bit more evenly than the Heated Wheel board is (both boards are 9.25"x32" and weigh in at 3 lbs 3.2 oz). UPS came yesterday just in time for it to start raining, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to give opinions on how they skate.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52693472608_0d3c3dc2dd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ohkPAq)
I weighed them on a digital scale. The 151s are heavier than 159 Stage 11s and Ace 60s. I'll double check wheelbase but I already did the side by side comparison on decks with the same wheelbase Ace AF1 60s vs Stage 4 151s and even if the trucks weren't perfectly straight the axles sat further in on the Indys on both sides.
I'm just an old dude who needs glasses though, so if someone really cares, bust out the measuring tape and take an average measuremeant of the distance between both sides of the axle. They certainly 'feel' like a shorter wheelbase when you turn. I have never felt a truck feel so responsive... maybe even too responsive...
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OK after some quick measurements and averages the Stage 4 151s shrink the wheelbase by about 2 3/4" while the AF1s shrink the wheelbase by about 2 7/8"
I'd say the wheelbase is about an 1/8" shorter on the stage 4s. It actually looked like a bigger difference before I busted out the tape.
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OK after some quick measurements and averages the Stage 4 151s shrink the wheelbase by about 2 3/4" while the AF1s shrink the wheelbase by about 2 7/8"
I'd say the wheelbase is about an 1/8" shorter on the stage 4s. It actually looked like a bigger difference before I busted out the tape.
Sounds really similar to Ace classics, which if I'm not mistaken are based off Indy stage 3? Anyone do a comparison with the stage 4s and Ace classics? I started learning to skate transition recently and love how Aces feel, but mine are on their last legs. Wondering if it's worth trying something new or sticking to what works.
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OK after some quick measurements and averages the Stage 4 151s shrink the wheelbase by about 2 3/4" while the AF1s shrink the wheelbase by about 2 7/8"
I'd say the wheelbase is about an 1/8" shorter on the stage 4s. It actually looked like a bigger difference before I busted out the tape.
That's really close to what I measured my Stage 6 trucks to a couple years ago.
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Sorry to be confusing the Stage 4s shrink the wheelbase more than AF1s by about an 1/8" is what I meant to say. I suck and have probably made mistakes so don't count on me.
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Just set mine up. Objectively speaking, these are the carviest feeling trucks I’ve ever ridden short of Caliber IIIs.
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Alright...if these are carvier than Ace's then god damnit I'm gonna have to go get them >:(
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I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
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I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
The review that these have more turning than ace, let me know that the 4s are not for me.
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I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
My prediction: There will be some initial interest, which will seem exaggerated to anyone who reads Slap since people here consume gear at several times the rate of the average skater, and then demand will cool and it'll just be another truck in the lineup.
I've said a zillion times but the appeal of Ace isn't just the trucks, it's the fact that it's not Independent. It's a different brand, sponsoring different skaters and with different marketing.
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I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
Crusing the insta coimments it's 'reissue this', 'reissue that' - SC/Powell gonna sell some decks.
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(https://i.ibb.co/3R8rCR1/6-A59-FB74-622-F-46-A0-8-F32-918-F88-D2-B761.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3R8rCR1)
got these 136’s not even 2 hours ago. I set them up on my board, but haven’t had the chance to skate yet. when I stood on it though, they felt like a slightly more stable ace. I think I’m gonna like these a lot. I also forgot how much I prefer solid kingpins over hollow ones once I got these.
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Just had a quick flat ground slappy session on the Stage 4s. Bushings firmed up real quick. Grind is great (I only skated about 45mins and I already have a bit of a groove... so perhaps not going to be any more durable than existing trucks) Pop feel feels like Ace Classics, maybe even a bit better. Might have slipped an axle already. But the major selling point is the turn. Pretty magic.
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Picked up two sets of the ACE STAGE 4S.
TBH they look pretty great but I can't skate them with this sprained ankle. So mostly this was done as a power move.
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(https://i.ibb.co/3R8rCR1/6-A59-FB74-622-F-46-A0-8-F32-918-F88-D2-B761.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3R8rCR1)
got these 136’s not even 2 hours ago. I set them up on my board, but haven’t had the chance to skate yet. when I stood on it though, they felt like a slightly more stable ace. I think I’m gonna like these a lot. I also forgot how much I prefer solid kingpins over hollow ones once I got these.
Prefer them why?
Just standing on them felt better than hollow pins?
Aesthetics?
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(https://i.ibb.co/3R8rCR1/6-A59-FB74-622-F-46-A0-8-F32-918-F88-D2-B761.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3R8rCR1)
got these 136’s not even 2 hours ago. I set them up on my board, but haven’t had the chance to skate yet. when I stood on it though, they felt like a slightly more stable ace. I think I’m gonna like these a lot. I also forgot how much I prefer solid kingpins over hollow ones once I got these.
Prefer them why?
Just standing on them felt better than hollow pins?
Aesthetics?
moreso the durability. never have I stripped solid kingpins. but if I’m not careful, I could strip and set of hollow kingpins on a brand new set of trucks. idk what it is, I think it might be the fact that solid pins come to a slight taper at the top of the kingpin, whereas hollow pins seem like they keep the same shape all the way through. I could also just be insane though. lmao.
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I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
My prediction: There will be some initial interest, which will seem exaggerated to anyone who reads Slap since people here consume gear at several times the rate of the average skater, and then demand will cool and it'll just be another truck in the lineup.
I've said a zillion times but the appeal of Ace isn't just the trucks, it's the fact that it's not Independent. It's a different brand, sponsoring different skaters and with different marketing.
I feel pretty much the same way. I’ve been strictly Aces for years now but these initial experiences sure tempt me a lot even though I was “fuck Independent, never again” after the Jason Jesse debacle. I also have enough Aces to last me years so I don’t need new trucks. But still I’m intrigued. I wonder if the wheelbite is as predictable as it is with Aces. That was my main gripe with Indys. It always came as a bit of a surprise to me and then I ate shit. With Aces I know when it’s coming and know when to bail safely before I eat shit due to wheelbite.
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Expand Quote
Expand Quote
I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
My prediction: There will be some initial interest, which will seem exaggerated to anyone who reads Slap since people here consume gear at several times the rate of the average skater, and then demand will cool and it'll just be another truck in the lineup.
I've said a zillion times but the appeal of Ace isn't just the trucks, it's the fact that it's not Independent. It's a different brand, sponsoring different skaters and with different marketing.
I feel pretty much the same way. I’ve been strictly Aces for years now but these initial experiences sure tempt me a lot even though I was “fuck Independent, never again” after the Jason Jesse debacle. I also have enough Aces to last me years so I don’t need new trucks. But still I’m intrigued. I wonder if the wheelbite is as predictable as it is with Aces. That was my main gripe with Indys. It always came as a bit of a surprise to me and then I ate shit. With Aces I know when it’s coming and know when to bail safely before I eat shit due to wheelbite.
You sure you weren't on Thunders? ;P
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Expand Quote
I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
My prediction: There will be some initial interest, which will seem exaggerated to anyone who reads Slap since people here consume gear at several times the rate of the average skater, and then demand will cool and it'll just be another truck in the lineup.
I've said a zillion times but the appeal of Ace isn't just the trucks, it's the fact that it's not Independent. It's a different brand, sponsoring different skaters and with different marketing.
I don't think this is AS big of a factor as you believe. It's definitely a factor, don't get me wrong, but it would be a pretty hard thing to quantify at the end of the day.
I'm more inclined to believe that most people ride what works best for them.
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Picked up two sets of the ACE STAGE 4S.
TBH they look pretty great but I can't skate them with this sprained ankle. So mostly this was done as a power move.
DOMINANCE has been asserted.
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So I’m confused, is Ace ripping off Indy?
Or is Indy ripping off Ace at this point?
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I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
My prediction: There will be some initial interest, which will seem exaggerated to anyone who reads Slap since people here consume gear at several times the rate of the average skater, and then demand will cool and it'll just be another truck in the lineup.
I've said a zillion times but the appeal of Ace isn't just the trucks, it's the fact that it's not Independent. It's a different brand, sponsoring different skaters and with different marketing.
I feel pretty much the same way. I’ve been strictly Aces for years now but these initial experiences sure tempt me a lot even though I was “fuck Independent, never again” after the Jason Jesse debacle. I also have enough Aces to last me years so I don’t need new trucks. But still I’m intrigued. I wonder if the wheelbite is as predictable as it is with Aces. That was my main gripe with Indys. It always came as a bit of a surprise to me and then I ate shit. With Aces I know when it’s coming and know when to bail safely before I eat shit due to wheelbite.
You sure you weren't on Thunders? ;P
Thunders have definitely just carcass tossed me…I can feel so confident and comfortable and then be just be smoked on the ground doing that hurt laugh.
I’ll keep coming back for the pop tho.
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Expand Quote
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I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
My prediction: There will be some initial interest, which will seem exaggerated to anyone who reads Slap since people here consume gear at several times the rate of the average skater, and then demand will cool and it'll just be another truck in the lineup.
I've said a zillion times but the appeal of Ace isn't just the trucks, it's the fact that it's not Independent. It's a different brand, sponsoring different skaters and with different marketing.
I don't think this is AS big of a factor as you believe. It's definitely a factor, don't get me wrong, but it would be a pretty hard thing to quantify at the end of the day.
I'm more inclined to believe that most people ride what works best for them.
The average skater has multiple blown out bearings + cracked bushings with absolutely zero idea the trucks even make a difference.
Indy is shook about ACE throwing everything at the wall.
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(https://i.ibb.co/3R8rCR1/6-A59-FB74-622-F-46-A0-8-F32-918-F88-D2-B761.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3R8rCR1)
got these 136’s not even 2 hours ago. I set them up on my board, but haven’t had the chance to skate yet. when I stood on it though, they felt like a slightly more stable ace. I think I’m gonna like these a lot. I also forgot how much I prefer solid kingpins over hollow ones once I got these.
How do you judge stability if the board isn't moving?
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Went out again for a second stealthy curb/ flat ground session on the 151s and the bushings are now too firm haha. We shall see how it goes as the trucks break in properly.
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I was thinking about how the Stage IV reissues came to be. Based on stuff we've heard hear over the years, it goes something like this; Indy 215s have always been stage IV and were poured at Emerico since the beginning. Indy wants to transfer manufacture to China but the product is so old that the paper work is lost so all that exists are the molds. The molds are unavailable either because they break or because fuck you pay me so they have to reverse engineer from an existing set of 215s. 215s go rare for awhile as they figure that out. Once they come back into production, NHS has figured out the math on manufacturing stage IVs again and can scale that to any size they might wanna put out.
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I wonder how many people will jump ship from ace?
Skaters purely seeking the surf.
Logos, politics, brands aside.
Soul skaters.
Side note, happy skate shop day everyone. Go spend some money at your nearest (skater owned) shop.
My prediction: There will be some initial interest, which will seem exaggerated to anyone who reads Slap since people here consume gear at several times the rate of the average skater, and then demand will cool and it'll just be another truck in the lineup.
I've said a zillion times but the appeal of Ace isn't just the trucks, it's the fact that it's not Independent. It's a different brand, sponsoring different skaters and with different marketing.
I feel pretty much the same way. I’ve been strictly Aces for years now but these initial experiences sure tempt me a lot even though I was “fuck Independent, never again” after the Jason Jesse debacle. I also have enough Aces to last me years so I don’t need new trucks. But still I’m intrigued. I wonder if the wheelbite is as predictable as it is with Aces. That was my main gripe with Indys. It always came as a bit of a surprise to me and then I ate shit. With Aces I know when it’s coming and know when to bail safely before I eat shit due to wheelbite.
You sure you weren't on Thunders? ;P
Stage 11 Indys. At the height of my madness I did get Thunders also. 149 titaniums. The bushings on those were so hard I couldn’t get them to turn worth shit. No idea what was up with them. Can’t remember wheelbite being an issue. Got rid of them quite fast. Friends’ Thunders have always felt more twitchy and risky and fun.
But yeah, I seem to “understand” Aces better than any other trucks I’ve tried. Would be interested in knowing if the Indy Stage 4s would be similar but with an even deeper turn. :)
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Does anyone have measurements of the stage 4 bushings? Has Indy released any info on aftermarket bushings for the stage 4s? Would Ace bushings work?
Someone needs to nerd out properly on these and post all the measurements for us other nerds to go over. The madness sure seems to be creeping in strongly for me.
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Does anyone have measurements of the stage 4 bushings? Has Indy released any info on aftermarket bushings for the stage 4s? Would Ace bushings work?
Someone needs to nerd out properly on these and post all the measurements for us other nerds to go over. The madness sure seems to be creeping in strongly for me.
I can't find a hard post anywhere on Indy's socials about the different bushings. All the ad copy mentions "original cushions for superior stability" but no listings for them aftermarket duros. No shops that have the trucks up have the listings for the bushings that I have seen. My guess is they will go live when the trucks go on sale in June or slowly trickle into shops in the meantime. It doesn't look like they actually exist yet.
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https://youtu.be/cumKQXJBC3w
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Kingpin clearance still looks really bad.
*sigh*
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Kingpin clearance still looks really bad.
*sigh*
Yea, def not the best
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Kingpin clearance still looks really bad.
*sigh*
Yea, def not the best
My two favorite trucks, 5.2 lo’s and 147s, have terrible Clarence. And they are still my favorite. All to say these could be fine.
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Does anyone have measurements of the stage 4 bushings? Has Indy released any info on aftermarket bushings for the stage 4s? Would Ace bushings work?
Someone needs to nerd out properly on these and post all the measurements for us other nerds to go over. The madness sure seems to be creeping in strongly for me.
Here are my notes after comparing models. In front of me, I have a:
146 Stage 4
215 Stage XI
169 Stage XI Standard
169 Stage XI Forged
All fairly fresh, nothing is super squished or destroyed on these, for the record.
HEIGHT
Interestingly, the 215s are the only ones that measured a full 55mm to the center of the axle (taking measurement from each axle end and averaging the four). All the others were 53-54mm like the forged model, including the Stage 4.
BUSHINGS
The Stage 4 bushings are indeed taller like the 215 bushings. They have a 14mm barrel and 12mm cone, same as a fresh set of AF1 bushings.
HANGER
Apples to apples, the Stage 4 hanger looks to be the same geometry as the 215 hanger. Only difference I can see with the naked eye is a very slightly longer pivot on the 215 hanger (like 1-2mm at most).
BASEPLATE
The Stage 4 baseplate is slightly different. With the naked eye, it’s a little lower than the Stage XI 6-hole plate (not thinner like the forged plate, but the kingpin base and pivot base sit lower than the Stage XI plate, and I’m guessing the angles are slightly different, but can’t really confirm without a better set of measuring tools). The lettering running up the sides of the baseplate is smaller as well, so you can easily tell these baseplates apart that way if you get things mixed up on the workbench.
COMPATIBILITY
So, NHS says no, but I say yes. The 215 (to me) looks like it comes on a Stage XI plate with a longer kingpin, and the the 215 and Stage 4 hangers are so similar to the naked eye, if not identical, logic would dictate that the Stage 4 hanger would also fit on a Stage XI baseplate, and it does.
I popped the Stage 4 hanger on the regular 6-hole plate from the 169s (for the shorter kingpin) as well as the smaller bushings that come stock in Stage XIs, and it all comes together quite nicely, no red flags on the fit of anything. You get a couple extra millimeters of kingpin clearance, too. May need to play with Ace washers or flat washers or something if they start hitting the hanger yoke, but that’s the only issue I could forsee happening with shorter bushings.
Hope this helps you get the most out of these. Here are a couple pics of the shorter pin with the Stage 4 hanger.
(https://i.ibb.co/pWN738Z/79-D4-C90-B-D750-415-A-B5-C3-A0052-AE4-A4-F8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pWN738Z)(https://i.ibb.co/T0MFtpp/DA66094-B-3-EA9-4211-9-EF5-34-BB522-F3-CBD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/T0MFtpp)
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Does anyone have measurements of the stage 4 bushings? Has Indy released any info on aftermarket bushings for the stage 4s? Would Ace bushings work?
Someone needs to nerd out properly on these and post all the measurements for us other nerds to go over. The madness sure seems to be creeping in strongly for me.
Here are my notes after comparing models. In front of me, I have a:
146 Stage 4
215 Stage XI
169 Stage XI Standard
169 Stage XI Forged
All fairly fresh, nothing is super squished or destroyed on these, for the record.
HEIGHT
Interestingly, the 215s are the only ones that measured a full 55mm to the center of the axle (taking measurement from each axle end and averaging the four). All the others were 53-54mm like the forged model, including the Stage 4.
BUSHINGS
The Stage 4 bushings are indeed taller like the 215 bushings. They have a 14mm barrel and 12mm cone, same as a fresh set of AF1 bushings.
HANGER
Apples to apples, the Stage 4 hanger looks to be the same geometry as the 215 hanger. Only difference I can see with the naked eye is a very slightly longer pivot on the 215 hanger (like 1-2mm at most).
BASEPLATE
The Stage 4 baseplate is slightly different. With the naked eye, it’s a little lower than the Stage XI 6-hole plate (not thinner like the forged plate, but the kingpin base and pivot base sit lower than the Stage XI plate, and I’m guessing the angles are slightly different, but can’t really confirm without a better set of measuring tools). The lettering running up the sides of the baseplate is smaller as well, so you can easily tell these baseplates apart that way if you get things mixed up on the workbench.
COMPATIBILITY
So, NHS says no, but I say yes. The 215 (to me) looks like it comes on a Stage XI plate with a longer kingpin, and the the 215 and Stage 4 hangers are so similar to the naked eye, if not identical, logic would dictate that the Stage 4 hanger would also fit on a Stage XI baseplate, and it does.
I popped the Stage 4 hanger on the regular 6-hole plate from the 169s (for the shorter kingpin) as well as the smaller bushings that come stock in Stage XIs, and it all comes together quite nicely, no red flags on the fit of anything. You get a couple extra millimeters of kingpin clearance, too. May need to play with Ace washers or flat washers or something if they start hitting the hanger yoke, but that’s the only issue I could forsee happening with shorter bushings.
Hope this helps you get the most out of these. Here are a couple pics of the shorter pin with the Stage 4 hanger.
(https://i.ibb.co/pWN738Z/79-D4-C90-B-D750-415-A-B5-C3-A0052-AE4-A4-F8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pWN738Z)(https://i.ibb.co/T0MFtpp/DA66094-B-3-EA9-4211-9-EF5-34-BB522-F3-CBD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/T0MFtpp)
Proper stuff. Thanks a lot! I wonder who’s gonna be the first person to swap in Ace bushings and do a proper side to side comparison with Aces. The turn seemed really deep in that Shredz shop video.
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The turn is crazy deep and responsive. I am going to need some softer bushings than stock. I have some 88a Supercush I might try at some point.
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BUSHINGS
The Stage 4 bushings are indeed taller like the 215 bushings. They have a 14mm barrel and 12mm cone, same as a fresh set of AF1 bushings.
Thanks for the info I'll get this added to the first post.
The turn is crazy deep and responsive. I am going to need some softer bushings than stock. I have some 88a Supercush I might try at some point.
I know I keep harping on this, and I swear I'm not some diehard "bring back the cross" biker guy Indy fanboy.
But I'm gonna laugh my ass off if a good amount of people jump ship from ace to ride these.
I feel like a lot of people will prefer the height on the stage 4's too since most ace riders I see run risers.
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I don't know if Ace will loose much business... maybe. I'll certainly be sticking with Ace as I think I prefer the turn... I'll ride these Stage 4s for a few months for novelty value and then I am going to put them on a Natas reissue where they belong.
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I don't know if Ace will loose much business... maybe. I'll certainly be sticking with Ace as I think I prefer the turn... I'll ride these Stage 4s for a few months for novelty value and then I am going to put them on a Natas reissue where they belong.
Yeah Ace will be fine. I almost feel like NHS should’ve called them something different than Stage 4s, like just take elements from it and give them a new name for people who like to turn more.
Kinda like how Ace has the AFI, I feel like branding them as something new would bring more hype.
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So to whoever has tried these after the bushings broke in and firmed up. Is the turn better than Ace?
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I’d say so. It’s been a while, but they turn quicker than I remember even Ace Classics turning. Mine also firmed up a lot more than I was expecting, so I loosened them up a bit and they’re good again. Not sure if it’s the shape of the bushing or what, but they feel really stable all the way to wheelbite (on 56mm wheels) when turning. It’s like a really controlled, deep turn.
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If they fit on those 215 stage xi baseplates, I wonder if you could throw the stage 4 hangers on some forged plates, the aftermarket inverted kingpin baseplates or even the forged hollow mid baseplates and how each of these would affect kingpin clearance, height and wb extension
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So to whoever has tried these after the bushings broke in and firmed up. Is the turn better than Ace?
Depends what you mean by 'better.' Sharper, deeper? Yes. It will suit some people really well. I think others might not like it.
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Everyone says they find ACE ‘squirrelly’, but I find Indy stage XIs, when loosened enough to get turny, are way more tippy and unstable. Like you are kind of just balancing on the kingpins.
It’s like the geometry of ACE (Indy stage III) allow them to have a slightly wider, stable center with a beautiful transition into a deep, tight turn.
How are these Stage 4s? Tippy and tight? Or do they have a similar stable center?
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This is my guy.
(https://skateboardinghalloffame.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/2014-shof-fausto-vitello-4.jpg)
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I swear I saw 2 of the shops close to me listed on the Indy site for Stage 4s but they didn’t get them. Anyone else have that happen to them?
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I swear I saw 2 of the shops close to me listed on the Indy site for Stage 4s but they didn’t get them. Anyone else have that happen to them?
Labor has them in stock.
Not near you, but they’re available online.
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BUSHINGS
The Stage 4 bushings are indeed taller like the 215 bushings. They have a 14mm barrel and 12mm cone, same as a fresh set of AF1 bushings.
Thanks for the info I'll get this added to the first post.
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The turn is crazy deep and responsive. I am going to need some softer bushings than stock. I have some 88a Supercush I might try at some point.
I know I keep harping on this, and I swear I'm not some diehard "bring back the cross" biker guy Indy fanboy.
But I'm gonna laugh my ass off if a good amount of people jump ship from ace to ride these.
I feel like a lot of people will prefer the height on the stage 4's too since most ace riders I see run risers.
Yeah jock behaviour blows but why say it like it's a bad thing. Some sets have the stamp, other's don't. There are options for everyone.
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Everyone says they find ACE ‘squirrelly’, but I find Indy stage XIs, when loosened enough to get turny, are way more tippy and unstable. Like you are kind of just balancing on the kingpins.
It’s like the geometry of ACE (Indy stage III) allow them to have a slightly wider, stable center with a beautiful transition into a deep, tight turn.
How are these Stage 4s? Tippy and tight? Or do they have a similar stable center?
I agree with you. That's why in part, I prefer Ace and Thunder to Stage XI.
These Stage 4s are way closer to Ace (Yes, I know who did it first) and the turn is more fluid, consistent and predictable while feeling stableish on center compared to 11s. I like the feel way more than 11s but not as much as Ace. I am still only a few sessions deep on them. I'm probably going to have to replace the bushings though, as now they are broken in they are way too hard. My 88a supercush bottom bushings seem to be about the same height so that might work.
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Does anyone have measurements of the stage 4 bushings? Has Indy released any info on aftermarket bushings for the stage 4s? Would Ace bushings work?
Someone needs to nerd out properly on these and post all the measurements for us other nerds to go over. The madness sure seems to be creeping in strongly for me.
Jamie Owens is running bones bushings on them and they were flush
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Such a Socal move....
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I bought 3 sets of stage 4’s in 8” axle… don’t judge me.
I mostly flip my board and Ollie. I don’t know how my findings will help anyone, but I’ll report back my findings asap.
I usually run Ace with red Doh-doh’s.
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Everyone says they find ACE ‘squirrelly’, but I find Indy stage XIs, when loosened enough to get turny, are way more tippy and unstable. Like you are kind of just balancing on the kingpins.
It’s like the geometry of ACE (Indy stage III) allow them to have a slightly wider, stable center with a beautiful transition into a deep, tight turn.
How are these Stage 4s? Tippy and tight? Or do they have a similar stable center?
I agree with you. That's why in part, I prefer Ace and Thunder to Stage XI.
These Stage 4s are way closer to Ace (Yes, I know who did it first) and the turn is more fluid, consistent and predictable while feeling stableish on center compared to 11s. I like the feel way more than 11s but not as much as Ace. I am still only a few sessions deep on them. I'm probably going to have to replace the bushings though, as now they are broken in they are way too hard. My 88a supercush bottom bushings seem to be about the same height so that might work.
Thanks, that’s exactly the feedback I was hoping for.
Anyone else have similar/different experiences compared to ACE?
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I bought 3 sets of stage 4’s in 8” axle… don’t judge me.
I mostly flip my board and Ollie. I don’t know how my findings will help anyone, but I’ll report back my findings asap.
I usually run Ace with red Doh-doh’s.
3 sets off the rip…interesting
I’m pretty much only interested in your feedback: I skate 8s, I only flip and ollie.
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I bought 3 sets of stage 4’s in 8” axle… don’t judge me.
I mostly flip my board and Ollie. I don’t know how my findings will help anyone, but I’ll report back my findings asap.
I usually run Ace with red Doh-doh’s.
3 sets off the rip…interesting
I’m pretty much only interested in your feedback: I skate 8s, I only flip and ollie.
It’s an obsessive thing, honestly.
I buy everything in multiples, and it’s really quite bad.
For me, I always firm up my Ace with harder bushings. If I can get a similar turn, but have a centered firm balance I’ll be happy.
I’m also around 175-180lbs. I feel like that’s an important detail when discussing “responsiveness” or turn in regards to trucks.
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(https://i.ibb.co/3R8rCR1/6-A59-FB74-622-F-46-A0-8-F32-918-F88-D2-B761.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3R8rCR1)
got these 136’s not even 2 hours ago. I set them up on my board, but haven’t had the chance to skate yet. when I stood on it though, they felt like a slightly more stable ace. I think I’m gonna like these a lot. I also forgot how much I prefer solid kingpins over hollow ones once I got these.
How do you judge stability if the board isn't moving?
I just meant standing, moving side to side. 🤣 but I have skated them since then, and my initial assessment still stands. I do love the carvy turn. but nothing beats S11 forged hollow titanium Indy’s
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Kingpin clearance still looks really bad.
*sigh*
It's period correct not to care about kingpins dragging on the sidewalk. I remember digging deep gouges in wooden ledges and mini-ramp decks. I wonder at what point did people become hyper-sensitive about kingpin clearance?
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Kingpin clearance still looks really bad.
*sigh*
It's period correct not to care about kingpins dragging on the sidewalk. I remember digging deep gouges in wooden ledges and mini-ramp decks. I wonder at what point did people become hyper-sensitive about kingpin clearance?
When they started doing smiths & feebles on ledges & getting pitched.
Unless the trucks suck, I like to ride them until they’re well into the axle & the top of the king pin & attendant nut are usually just mashed-out nubbins at that point.
Frankly, I rarely notice the kingpin dragging but that likely has more to do with my meager skill set than the height/clearance of it.
I went to two more shops today trying to cop a set of 151s, but struck out yet again. I don’t know why I keep trying to pay full price for these.
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(https://i.ibb.co/3R8rCR1/6-A59-FB74-622-F-46-A0-8-F32-918-F88-D2-B761.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3R8rCR1)
got these 136’s not even 2 hours ago. I set them up on my board, but haven’t had the chance to skate yet. when I stood on it though, they felt like a slightly more stable ace. I think I’m gonna like these a lot. I also forgot how much I prefer solid kingpins over hollow ones once I got these.
How do you judge stability if the board isn't moving?
I just meant standing, moving side to side. 🤣 but I have skated them since then, and my initial assessment still stands. I do love the carvy turn. but nothing beats S11 forged hollow titanium Indy’s
Agreed. I really want to try the stage 4s but no part of me wants them on my regular setup. I've already ruled out aces on that front, def don't need an even deeper turn haha. I would be so inconsistent.
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Kingpin clearance still looks really bad.
*sigh*
It's period correct not to care about kingpins dragging on the sidewalk. I remember digging deep gouges in wooden ledges and mini-ramp decks. I wonder at what point did people become hyper-sensitive about kingpin clearance?
Unless the trucks suck, I like to ride them until they’re well into the axle & the top of the king pin & attendant nut are usually just mashed-out nubbins at that point.
Frankly, I rarely notice the kingpin dragging but that likely has more to do with my meager skill set than the height/clearance of it.
I went to two more shops today trying to cop a set of 151s, but struck out yet again. I don’t know why I keep trying to pay full price for these.
Because you're a good guy
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I think my biggest takeaway from this was the use of marble/granite in skateparks in Japan. Very nice.
The whole riding around in the kei truck with your homie vibe looked cool too.
https://youtu.be/ZKDZw0R2028
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I watched a bit of it on auto translate, seemed to work ok, but I lost interest......
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I think my biggest takeaway from this was the use of marble/granite in skateparks in Japan. Very nice.
The whole riding around in the kei truck with your homie vibe looked cool too.
https://youtu.be/ZKDZw0R2028
Amazing. Buy the most carvy trucks possible and not bother turning on them.
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Haha. Damn bushings are too firm.
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According to NHS skate direct site Q&A:
Stage 4s have approximately .23” shorter wheelbase than Stage 11.
Sounds pretty damn short, if I'm not mistaken, shorter than aces
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According to NHS skate direct site Q&A:
Stage 4s have approximately .23” shorter wheelbase than Stage 11.
Sounds pretty damn short, if I'm not mistaken, shorter than aces
It's cool they're obliging us truck nerds with stats like that.
Someone earlier had them setup on a board with the same WB as another deck with aces and they looked the same.
Though bushings compressing could play a role
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I wouldn’t trust any measurements from any skate company. They’re so often wrong in so many ways. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Stage 4 measurements are off too.
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I wouldn’t trust any measurements from any skate company. They’re so often wrong in so many ways. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Stage 4 measurements are off too.
Has Indy burned us in the past with bad stats?
I've only seen this from Ace
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I wouldn’t trust any measurements from any skate company. They’re so often wrong in so many ways. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Stage 4 measurements are off too.
Has Indy burned us in the past with bad stats?
I've only seen this from Ace
I always read people don't know the Stats.
ACE Classics 52mm
ACE AF1 53.5mm
ACE STAGE IV 55mm
Stop reading the specs from Zumiez and Tactics bros.
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I wouldn’t trust any measurements from any skate company. They’re so often wrong in so many ways. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Stage 4 measurements are off too.
Has Indy burned us in the past with bad stats?
I've only seen this from Ace
Not sure. I’ve also seen it from Venture & Thunder at least. For deck brands pretty much all of them. Stage 4 would be 2.77” then compared to 2.75”(?) for Ace Classics? Aren't Ace AF1s the same as Indy Stage 11 (3.00”)? Not that it really matters much. Might tell something about the turn or might not. :)
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I wouldn’t trust any measurements from any skate company. They’re so often wrong in so many ways. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Stage 4 measurements are off too.
Has Indy burned us in the past with bad stats?
I've only seen this from Ace
Not sure. I’ve also seen it from Venture & Thunder at least. For deck brands pretty much all of them. Stage 4 would be 2.77” then compared to 2.75”(?) for Ace Classics? Aren't Ace AF1s the same as Indy Stage 11 (3.00”)? Not that it really matters much. Might tell something about the turn or might not. :)
shorter WB would def imply a tighter turning radius
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Ok, I feel like NOW I can give a proper assessment of the stage 4 after skating then last night for about 2 hours on a nice curb session.
my first initial thought after popping a few tricks is, these are HEAVY. I don’t have a scale, but I would venture to say these are definitely the heaviest Indy’s I’ve ever skated.
However, what they lack in lightness, they certainly make up for in all other areas.
The turn on these trucks is unmatched. The first 30 minutes was very rough because the bushings hadn’t firmed up yet, and the wheel bite was crazy, I weigh MAYBE 120lbs and I was wheelbiting everywhere. but eventually they firmed up a bit and started to break in nice. I’ve never been very good at transition, but i feel like these stage 4’s paired with the 55 radials I have on the board, are gonna make it a lot easier and more enjoyable to learn some ramp tricks.
I like to do control tests with different setups to see the vast difference in turning. I popped a few back 180’s on my board with venture high’s and then a few on the stage 4’s. it felt amazing being able to turn out on an angle that I would’ve had to kinda power slide out of on ventures. These trucks are most definitely more geared towards transition/bowl skaters, but they can be skated like a normal street trucks too.
the most positive feature of these new trucks though, is the GRIND!! we all know Indy are the best grinding truck already, but the stage 4 grinds even better than Indy stage 11’s.
Another feature I like is that they dont really bind that bad as far as washer to hanger contact is concerned. IDK if it’s the washers they use in the stage 4’s (they use the same washers that come with Indy aftermarket bushings) or the shape of the bushings, but you can see where they would normally bind on any other trucks, and there is little to no nicks.
idk why, but that’s always been a big annoyance of mine, but I also don’t like the way those flat bones washers look on trucks.
so yea, overall, I really really like these trucks. I do hope they eventually come out with stage 4’s that have all the lightweight bells and whistles, but until then, I’ll definitely enjoy these.
I just bought a new set of Indy S11 TI’s so those will go on my everyday board. and I think these will eventually go on a setup I’m gonna make just for ramps. Probably put them on a 8.18-8.25, with the 55’s.
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Ok, I feel like NOW I can give a proper assessment of the stage 4 after skating then last night for about 2 hours on a nice curb session.
my first initial thought after popping a few tricks is, these are HEAVY. I don’t have a scale, but I would venture to say these are definitely the heaviest Indy’s I’ve ever skated.
However, what they lack in lightness, they certainly make up for in all other areas.
The turn on these trucks is unmatched. The first 30 minutes was very rough because the bushings hadn’t firmed up yet, and the wheel bite was crazy, I weigh MAYBE 120lbs and I was wheelbiting everywhere. but eventually they firmed up a bit and started to break in nice. I’ve never been very good at transition, but i feel like these stage 4’s paired with the 55 radials I have on the board, are gonna make it a lot easier and more enjoyable to learn some ramp tricks.
I like to do control tests with different setups to see the vast difference in turning. I popped a few back 180’s on my board with venture high’s and then a few on the stage 4’s. it felt amazing being able to turn out on an angle that I would’ve had to kinda power slide out of on ventures. These trucks are most definitely more geared towards transition/bowl skaters, but they can be skated like a normal street trucks too.
the most positive feature of these new trucks though, is the GRIND!! we all know Indy are the best grinding truck already, but the stage 4 grinds even better than Indy stage 11’s.
Another feature I like is that they dont really bind that bad as far as washer to hanger contact is concerned. IDK if it’s the washers they use in the stage 4’s (they use the same washers that come with Indy aftermarket bushings) or the shape of the bushings, but you can see where they would normally bind on any other trucks, and there is little to no nicks.
idk why, but that’s always been a big annoyance of mine, but I also don’t like the way those flat bones washers look on trucks.
so yea, overall, I really really like these trucks. I do hope they eventually come out with stage 4’s that have all the lightweight bells and whistles, but until then, I’ll definitely enjoy these.
I just bought a new set of Indy S11 TI’s so those will go on my everyday board. and I think these will eventually go on a setup I’m gonna make just for ramps. Probably put them on a 8.18-8.25, with the 55’s.
Thanks for the feedback man.
wonder what makes the grind different? just the shape or are these using a different alloy than stage 11?
when you say its "better" what exactly do you mean? did you grind further than before? did things take less effort to grind? did you feel more locked in/in control?
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Ok, I feel like NOW I can give a proper assessment of the stage 4 after skating then last night for about 2 hours on a nice curb session.
my first initial thought after popping a few tricks is, these are HEAVY. I don’t have a scale, but I would venture to say these are definitely the heaviest Indy’s I’ve ever skated.
However, what they lack in lightness, they certainly make up for in all other areas.
The turn on these trucks is unmatched. The first 30 minutes was very rough because the bushings hadn’t firmed up yet, and the wheel bite was crazy, I weigh MAYBE 120lbs and I was wheelbiting everywhere. but eventually they firmed up a bit and started to break in nice. I’ve never been very good at transition, but i feel like these stage 4’s paired with the 55 radials I have on the board, are gonna make it a lot easier and more enjoyable to learn some ramp tricks.
I like to do control tests with different setups to see the vast difference in turning. I popped a few back 180’s on my board with venture high’s and then a few on the stage 4’s. it felt amazing being able to turn out on an angle that I would’ve had to kinda power slide out of on ventures. These trucks are most definitely more geared towards transition/bowl skaters, but they can be skated like a normal street trucks too.
the most positive feature of these new trucks though, is the GRIND!! we all know Indy are the best grinding truck already, but the stage 4 grinds even better than Indy stage 11’s.
Another feature I like is that they dont really bind that bad as far as washer to hanger contact is concerned. IDK if it’s the washers they use in the stage 4’s (they use the same washers that come with Indy aftermarket bushings) or the shape of the bushings, but you can see where they would normally bind on any other trucks, and there is little to no nicks.
idk why, but that’s always been a big annoyance of mine, but I also don’t like the way those flat bones washers look on trucks.
so yea, overall, I really really like these trucks. I do hope they eventually come out with stage 4’s that have all the lightweight bells and whistles, but until then, I’ll definitely enjoy these.
I just bought a new set of Indy S11 TI’s so those will go on my everyday board. and I think these will eventually go on a setup I’m gonna make just for ramps. Probably put them on a 8.18-8.25, with the 55’s.
Thanks for the feedback man.
wonder what makes the grind different? just the shape or are these using a different alloy than stage 11?
when you say its "better" what exactly do you mean? did you grind further than before? did things take less effort to grind? did you feel more locked in/in control?
I would say all three aspects you brought up they were improved in. But the one thing I noticed more than anything was how it took less effort to grind. Felt like I was grinding on marble but I was grinding on crusty yellow curbs
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Ok, I feel like NOW I can give a proper assessment of the stage 4 after skating then last night for about 2 hours on a nice curb session.
my first initial thought after popping a few tricks is, these are HEAVY. I don’t have a scale, but I would venture to say these are definitely the heaviest Indy’s I’ve ever skated.
However, what they lack in lightness, they certainly make up for in all other areas.
The turn on these trucks is unmatched. The first 30 minutes was very rough because the bushings hadn’t firmed up yet, and the wheel bite was crazy, I weigh MAYBE 120lbs and I was wheelbiting everywhere. but eventually they firmed up a bit and started to break in nice. I’ve never been very good at transition, but i feel like these stage 4’s paired with the 55 radials I have on the board, are gonna make it a lot easier and more enjoyable to learn some ramp tricks.
I like to do control tests with different setups to see the vast difference in turning. I popped a few back 180’s on my board with venture high’s and then a few on the stage 4’s. it felt amazing being able to turn out on an angle that I would’ve had to kinda power slide out of on ventures. These trucks are most definitely more geared towards transition/bowl skaters, but they can be skated like a normal street trucks too.
the most positive feature of these new trucks though, is the GRIND!! we all know Indy are the best grinding truck already, but the stage 4 grinds even better than Indy stage 11’s.
Another feature I like is that they dont really bind that bad as far as washer to hanger contact is concerned. IDK if it’s the washers they use in the stage 4’s (they use the same washers that come with Indy aftermarket bushings) or the shape of the bushings, but you can see where they would normally bind on any other trucks, and there is little to no nicks.
idk why, but that’s always been a big annoyance of mine, but I also don’t like the way those flat bones washers look on trucks.
so yea, overall, I really really like these trucks. I do hope they eventually come out with stage 4’s that have all the lightweight bells and whistles, but until then, I’ll definitely enjoy these.
I just bought a new set of Indy S11 TI’s so those will go on my everyday board. and I think these will eventually go on a setup I’m gonna make just for ramps. Probably put them on a 8.18-8.25, with the 55’s.
Thanks for the feedback man.
wonder what makes the grind different? just the shape or are these using a different alloy than stage 11?
when you say its "better" what exactly do you mean? did you grind further than before? did things take less effort to grind? did you feel more locked in/in control?
I would say all three aspects you brought up they were improved in. But the one thing I noticed more than anything was how it took less effort to grind. Felt like I was grinding on marble but I was grinding on crusty yellow curbs
interesting. I've been trying not to buy these since i simply dont need them, but im not sure how much longer thats gonna last.
Curiosity is about to kill the (ipath) cat
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My guess is softer….like ace classics….not like ventures….
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My guess is softer….like ace classics….not like ventures….
imo ace classics grind slower (but more controlled) because of the softer alloy.
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Wild guess: it is the rod-shaped hangar coupled with the fact that it is pushed inwards a bit so your weight is more directly over it than it is pushing at an angle (like having the axle further out would). They alloy is probably the same as regular Indy, but the fact that your weight is center over it more than on a standard helps it grind faster.
Or something. I am a big dummy who is just guessing. I want to try these even though I have standard 149s, 159s, and a drawer full of Ace 44 classic parts.
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Wild guess: it is the rod-shaped hangar coupled with the fact that it is pushed inwards a bit so your weight is more directly over it than it is pushing at an angle (like having the axle further out would). They alloy is probably the same as regular Indy, but the fact that your weight is center over it more than on a standard helps it grind faster.
Or something. I am a big dummy who is just guessing. I want to try these even though I have standard 149s, 159s, and a drawer full of Ace 44 classic parts.
interesting thought here. could have an impact.
heavier trucks also tend to plow through shit easier since they have more momentum? velocity? idk which.
Theyre heavier, so theyre harder to stop once they start moving.
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Also the hangers are so damn chunky. So perhaps they way a wide wheel will barge over crust these chunky hangers will smash through grinds easier. IPathCats you should just tame you curiosity and check them out. I give you permission.
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I won’t be able to skate mine today (rain/snow), but first impression upon seeing them is that the hanger isn’t as slim as it appears in photos online. It sort of reminds me of a beefier thunder team truck hanger.
It goes without saying that Ace and Lurpiv both have a “slimmer” look.
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Also the hangers are so damn chunky. So perhaps they way a wide wheel will barge over crust these chunky hangers will smash through grinds easier. IPathCats you should just tame you curiosity and check them out. I give you permission.
lol thanks man, we'll see. I have no desire to skate them on my regular setup, so they would be a strictly cruiser truck for me. ill see if any shops near me have them online. feel free to link any legit skate shops that have the 151s for sale online.
I won’t be able to skate mine today (rain/snow), but first impression upon seeing them is that the hanger isn’t as slim as it appears in photos online. It sort of reminds me of a beefier thunder team truck hanger.
It goes without saying that Ace and Lurpiv both have a “slimmer” look.
I've noticed that too from seeing the different angles of them in posts. sort of a deceptive shape. Probably to prevent bending the hanger if i had to guess.
which would be a huge upgrade over ace.
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a forged hollow and stage 4 base plate, the riptides are leftover from years ago when indy 1st moved to china. bushing and pivot cups were shit then, the stage 4 cups and bushings look good enough. those are aftermarket conical bottoms (orange) and aftermarket barrel bottoms (blue). tops are aftermarkets. the red stock stage 4's are ever so slightly taller than the aftermarket orange conical bottoms, and quite a bit taller than the blue barrles, the red tops are a quite a bit taller than both aftermarket tops.
you can also see the anlge of the cups & kinpins might be different.
(https://i.ibb.co/4FfnDXf/IMG-7773.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4FfnDXf)
(https://i.ibb.co/m8jfRNp/IMG-7774.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m8jfRNp)
(https://i.ibb.co/cT85r1q/IMG-7775.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cT85r1q)
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A few other relevant measurements and notes for those looking to Frankenstein the Stage 4 pieces for lower kingpins, curiosity, or both…
215 hanger on Stage 4 baseplate:
53.5mm avg. axle height
(Interestingly, I also got this measurement on the stock stage 4s even though the Indy marketing says 55mm.)
Wheelbase +2.6 in.
(I was an idiot and forgot to measure the wheelbase on the stock Stage 4s before I started tinkering with the different combos. Whoops.)
.
Stage 4 hanger on Standard Stage XI 6-hole plate:
55mm avg. axle height
(Another interesting sidebar, this combo and the 215s on the stock baseplate are the only Indys I have that actually measure 55mm tall. All the others, even the 169 Standards, are 53-54mm like the forged ones are supposed to be. Weird.)
Wheelbase +2.875 in.
(This one I measured on the setup. True wheelbase 17.375 in. minus 14.5 in.* AH Green Eagle wheelbase.)
EDIT: *Got fooled by my tape measure before. Green Eagle is indeed 14.5 wheelbase.
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If someone could get stats of indy 4 hangers on stage 11 forged plates that would be really good
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Dope so you can buy 2 trucks to make a single truck. Why would anyone want a heavier Stage XI hanger I don't get it. The bushing does make the KP worse on Stage IV, but it looks as if there is less meat on top of the axle too.
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Dope so you can buy 2 trucks to make a single truck. Why would anyone want a heavier Stage XI hanger I don't get it. The bushing does make the KP worse on Stage IV, but it looks as if there is less meat on top of the axle too.
yeah, why would you want to do that?
having both trucks here in front of me, there's no way i'd swap any of the parts on them except for pivot cups.
doesn't mean people wont still frankentruck them.
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a forged hollow and stage 4 base plate, the riptides are leftover from years ago when indy 1st moved to china. bushing and pivot cups were shit then, the stage 4 cups and bushings look good enough. those are aftermarket conical bottoms (orange) and aftermarket barrel bottoms (blue). tops are aftermarkets. the red stock stage 4's are ever so slightly taller than the aftermarket orange conical bottoms, and quite a bit taller than the blue barrles, the red tops are a quite a bit taller than both aftermarket tops.
you can also see the anlge of the cups & kinpins might be different.
(https://i.ibb.co/4FfnDXf/IMG-7773.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4FfnDXf)
(https://i.ibb.co/m8jfRNp/IMG-7774.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m8jfRNp)
(https://i.ibb.co/cT85r1q/IMG-7775.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cT85r1q)
Assuming IV is on the left the kingpin to pivot distance is much shorter. Wouldn't that suggest that while they sorta line up with Stage IV bushing/hanger angle that you're quite fucking with the geometry here?
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If someone could get stats of indy 4 hangers on stage 11 forged plates that would be really good
I got 53.5mm height and the wheelbase was about the same +2.875 in., maybe a little closer to +2.9 in.
And you could run these very loose using stock Indy bushings, or you could firm it up a little by using the Stage 4 top bushings.
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a forged hollow and stage 4 base plate, the riptides are leftover from years ago when indy 1st moved to china. bushing and pivot cups were shit then, the stage 4 cups and bushings look good enough. those are aftermarket conical bottoms (orange) and aftermarket barrel bottoms (blue). tops are aftermarkets. the red stock stage 4's are ever so slightly taller than the aftermarket orange conical bottoms, and quite a bit taller than the blue barrles, the red tops are a quite a bit taller than both aftermarket tops.
you can also see the anlge of the cups & kinpins might be different.
(https://i.ibb.co/4FfnDXf/IMG-7773.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4FfnDXf)
(https://i.ibb.co/m8jfRNp/IMG-7774.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m8jfRNp)
(https://i.ibb.co/cT85r1q/IMG-7775.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cT85r1q)
Assuming IV is on the left the kingpin to pivot distance is much shorter. Wouldn't that suggest that while they sorta line up with Stage IV bushing/hanger angle that you're quite fucking with the geometry here?
they are so different, i didn't even bother trying or think about swapping, just wanted to show some differences, baseplate, bushings ect.... forged hollow, has the hollow kingpin and cross on the baseplate, those are 11's. the stage 4's have the solid kingpin, no cross.
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a forged hollow and stage 4 base plate, the riptides are leftover from years ago when indy 1st moved to china. bushing and pivot cups were shit then, the stage 4 cups and bushings look good enough. those are aftermarket conical bottoms (orange) and aftermarket barrel bottoms (blue). tops are aftermarkets. the red stock stage 4's are ever so slightly taller than the aftermarket orange conical bottoms, and quite a bit taller than the blue barrles, the red tops are a quite a bit taller than both aftermarket tops.
you can also see the anlge of the cups & kinpins might be different.
(https://i.ibb.co/4FfnDXf/IMG-7773.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4FfnDXf)
(https://i.ibb.co/m8jfRNp/IMG-7774.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m8jfRNp)
(https://i.ibb.co/cT85r1q/IMG-7775.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cT85r1q)
Assuming IV is on the left the kingpin to pivot distance is much shorter. Wouldn't that suggest that while they sorta line up with Stage IV bushing/hanger angle that you're quite fucking with the geometry here?
Just curious but I’m assuming the top(red4) is the same height as the bottom conical(orange11) right? The 215s are. I tried swapping a standard baseplate with the 215 baseplate and there weren’t any issues with that. The forged baseplate has a bit longer wheelbase than the standards. Just run a standard baseplate with 2 bottom conicals or if you want really loose or more kingpin clearance run a stage 11 bottom/top combo and you get about 1/8 or 3/16” (iirc might be more) more room to cut the kingpin down w/o losing anything.
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yall are losing me with the truck nerdery & dr. frakentruckery. plus i'm fried, long day.
i don't think the top stage 4 bushing is as tall as a bottom conical. i set those trucks up right before i posted so i cant check right now.
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I’m waiting for someone to post the stage IV hangers on an IKP baseplate with kreepers, Khiro or bones bushings and the riptides.
The first time I saw that with Ace Mags was wild. I believe in the excess that goes on and I love it
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I’m waiting for someone to post the stage IV hangers on an IKP baseplate with kreepers, Khiro or bones bushings and the riptides.
The first time I saw that with Ace Mags was wild. I believe in the excess that goes on and I love it
I recommend to buy Stage IVs but put on forged baseplate, ti hangers, ace bushings, riptide pivot cups, kreper kingpins and bones flat washers. Keep the stage IV axle nuts tho, they‘re dope.
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People are gonna have some wild combos running around now.
I thoroughly enjoy my ti hanger/cast plates combo.
I have some lightly used forged plates if anyone wants to trade me some new/lightly used cast hollow kp plates, for their franken trucking experiments.
Ti hanger on cast hollow plate is the last combo I want to try.
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Am I going to have madness switching from Indy Forged Hollows to Indy Standard Hollow? I didn't realize they weren't the same heights.
I also used to skate the Forged Ti Indy but after they broke apart and you guys said they had manufacturing defects I wanted to switch..Now I have buyers remorse and wish I got Ti instead of the hollow standards.
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Am I going to have madness switching from Indy Forged Hollows to Indy Standard Hollow? I didn't realize they weren't the same heights.
I also used to skate the Forged Ti Indy but after they broke apart and you guys said they had manufacturing defects I wanted to switch..Now I have buyers remorse and wish I got Ti instead of the hollow standards.
Depends on how sensitive you are to things like that.
cast hollows are going to be a bit taller and heavier than forged.
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Am I going to have madness switching from Indy Forged Hollows to Indy Standard Hollow? I didn't realize they weren't the same heights.
I also used to skate the Forged Ti Indy but after they broke apart and you guys said they had manufacturing defects I wanted to switch..Now I have buyers remorse and wish I got Ti instead of the hollow standards.
I wasn’t happy with the wheel clearance on forged hollow, and I’d rather be free from risers, so I upgraded to cast hollow.
Also I didn’t have a clue.
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I'm not a fan of the thinner forged baseplate compared to the standards, made it more likely for me to stick doing nose/tail slides. I feel the standards give more room for error locking in.
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what size wheels do you guys run? because I got madness and currently am rocking 159 indy standards and have been debating whether I should get forged hollows since my set up seems heavy. 8.5 deck and 55mm conical fulls. My fear is wheelbite but how do you guys feel?
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what size wheels do you guys run? because I got madness and currently am rocking 159 indy standards and have been debating whether I should get forged hollows since my set up seems heavy. 8.5 deck and 55mm conical fulls. My fear is wheelbite but how do you guys feel?
The forged plate messes with the turn and imo makes them feel more twitchy like a thunder/Indy hybrid to me. I'd recommend Hollow Standards of you want to keep the turn similar and cut some weight without having to worry about wheelbite. Btw I run 56mm wheels on the hollow standards but I also use risers and like my setup really tall.
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My preferred (starting) wheel size for indy; but no matter the truck, I tend to start with a wheel size that mirrors the truck height
Forged Mids = ~51mm
Mids = ~52mm
Forged = 53/54mm
Cast = 55mm+
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what size wheels do you guys run? because I got madness and currently am rocking 159 indy standards and have been debating whether I should get forged hollows since my set up seems heavy. 8.5 deck and 55mm conical fulls. My fear is wheelbite but how do you guys feel?
Depends on how tight you ride your trucks. conical fulls are a pretty wide wheel and 159s are a fairly wide truck so wheelbite is def a possibility if you run fairly loose.
I have 56mm classics on forged 149s and the wheelbite was totally manageable.
but classics dont bite as hard and i ride my trucks slightly tighter than medium
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thanks for all the input guys. much appreciated 8)
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what size wheels do you guys run? because I got madness and currently am rocking 159 indy standards and have been debating whether I should get forged hollows since my set up seems heavy. 8.5 deck and 55mm conical fulls. My fear is wheelbite but how do you guys feel?
I’d suggest just downsize the wheels to something like a 53/54mm conical type and keep the standards. Or throw some 1/8in risers on the current setup. Either choice will give you less variance and more consistency than changing the trucks to forged, and for less cost. Feel like standards flick better with smaller wheels than forged do with bigger wheels, based on my experience and thought process.
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so stage 4 166's were fun. heavy, but really fun. over 146's, i would want these in hollows or 166's in titanium, if they were going on board i was gonna try and flip or get up on ledges. gonna need to file down that kingpin nut, just lightly round it over, no hang ups on the few 50-50's i did do.. it was cold, windy and the spot i was at was slippery AF so i just mostly rolled around trying to break in the bushings. nuts slightly backed of flush, very nice turn, not a super quick return to center, yet.
i'll skate most any truck, most recently been skating venture 6.1's, thunder 161's and stage 11's, 149, 159, 169 and 215's. been awhile since i skated aces, haven't tried af1's yet.
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I’ve decided I’m going put a bullet in my curiosity tomorrow.
When I wake up, I’m going to have my morning coffee, pull up the 35th Ave website & place an order for a set each of AF1s & Stage 4s for my own side-by-side comparo.
@144p & the good peeps up there can help me put an end to this continuous internal debate I’ve been subjecting myself too.
I’m already old & only getting older; I don’t want to go to my grave wondering if I’ve missed out on some sort of magical turn or something. ;)
Curiosity may indeed wind up killing this cat’s bank account, but at least the kitty will get some fun sessions in on the way to the poor house.
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I’ve decided I’m going put a bullet in my curiosity tomorrow.
When I wake up, I’m going to have my morning coffee, pull up the 35th Ave website & place an order for a set each of AF1s & Stage 4s for my own side-by-side comparo.
@144p & the good peeps up there can help me put an end to this continuous internal debate I’ve been subjecting myself too.
I’m already old & only getting older; I don’t want to go to my grave wondering if I’ve missed out on some sort of magical turn or something. ;)
Curiosity may indeed wind up killing this cat’s bank account, but at least the kitty will get some fun sessions in on the way to the poor house.
Top shop
Awaiting your report(s)
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So I’m confused, is Ace ripping off Indy?
Or is Indy ripping off Ace at this point?
I would guess that it is a mutually beneficial relationship at this point.
I am wondering if stage 4 indy riders consider themselves Ace guys or Indy guys.
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All ace riders are Indy riders too.
Not all Indy riders are ace riders though.
Sort of one of those square vs rectangle things.
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All ace riders are Indy riders too.
Not all Indy riders are ace riders though.
Sort of one of those square vs rectangle things.
All Indy riders change there pivot cups, bushings/cut bushings, switch out baseplate for inverted kingpin then check to see if hanger is compatible with forged plates. if you need all that to make the truck work maybe it's you.
ACE mfs just ride the truck stock.
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All ace riders are Indy riders too.
Not all Indy riders are ace riders though.
Sort of one of those square vs rectangle things.
All Indy riders change there pivot cups, bushings/cut bushings, switch out baseplate for inverted kingpin then check to see if hanger is compatible with forged plates. if you need all that to make the truck work maybe it's you.
ACE mfs just ride the truck stock.
Found the mf who can't nollieflip
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All ace riders are Indy riders too.
Not all Indy riders are ace riders though.
Sort of one of those square vs rectangle things.
All Indy riders change there pivot cups, bushings/cut bushings, switch out baseplate for inverted kingpin then check to see if hanger is compatible with forged plates. if you need all that to make the truck work maybe it's you.
ACE mfs just ride the truck stock.
This guy thinks Nollie flips are hard.
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How did the Stage 4s sell at your local? Did they sell out? Mine still has every size in stock.
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I bought 3 sets of stage 4’s in 8” axle… don’t judge me.
I mostly flip my board and Ollie. I don’t know how my findings will help anyone, but I’ll report back my findings asap.
I usually run Ace with red Doh-doh’s.
3 sets off the rip…interesting
I’m pretty much only interested in your feedback: I skate 8s, I only flip and ollie.
It’s an obsessive thing, honestly.
I buy everything in multiples, and it’s really quite bad.
solidarity
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How did the Stage 4s sell at your local? Did they sell out? Mine still has every size in stock.
You wanna send this guy a DM so he can perhaps snag a 4th set? ;D
Nah, I’d probably grab a set in larger size to demo on popsicle and shaped.
Saturday I should have some findings to report back here. I’m primarily an Ace rider (as stated previously), but am currently skating Lurpivs (love them, but they have a huge amount of quirks).
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does any one know what 159 forged hollows weigh approx? is ~360g-370g a fair estimate?
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does any one know what 159 forged hollows weigh approx? is ~360g-370g a fair estimate?
on tactics it says 358 but not sure how accurate that is. Im getting some delivered in a couple days and if nobody else says, Ill let you know what I get
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does any one know what 159 forged hollows weigh approx? is ~360g-370g a fair estimate?
https://googlethatforyou.com
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-11-forged-hollow-silver-standard-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=40146264457373
362g
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So I’m confused, is Ace ripping off Indy?
Or is Indy ripping off Ace at this point?
how can indy be ripping off ace? i had these or stage 3's on my 1st board, ace didn't come along for 30ish more years.
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That’s the point. Indy moved on, and away from its old geometry. Is it really ‘ripping off’ someone if they haven’t put out a certain product in 20 years (and had zero intention to)?
Whereas AFTER Ace got popular, THEN Indy decides to rerelease the second-closest design?
A case could be made for both ripping each other off (except that ACE bought the patent for stage III, so Indy can’t make it anymore)
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That’s the point. Indy moved on, and away from its old geometry. Is it really ‘ripping off’ someone if they haven’t put out a certain product in 20 years (and had zero intention to)?
Whereas AFTER Ace got popular, THEN Indy decides to rerelease the second-closest design?
A case could be made for both ripping each other off (except that ACE bought the patent for stage III, so Indy can’t make it anymore)
are you an ace fanboi by chance?
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So I’m confused, is Ace ripping off Indy?
Or is Indy ripping off Ace at this point?
how can indy be ripping off ace? i had these or stage 3's on my 1st board, ace didn't come along for 30ish more years.
https://youtu.be/JT0zjorR68A
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"actually Indy isn't copying Ace"
*Releases Stage IV Truck exactly one year after AF1 comes out*
"NoTHiNg TuRns LikE an InDy"
??? ??? ???
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That’s the point. Indy moved on, and away from its old geometry. Is it really ‘ripping off’ someone if they haven’t put out a certain product in 20 years (and had zero intention to)?
Whereas AFTER Ace got popular, THEN Indy decides to rerelease the second-closest design?
A case could be made for both ripping each other off (except that ACE bought the patent for stage III, so Indy can’t make it anymore)
are you an ace fanboi by chance?
NO, my dude!
You read his posts?
He is a certified && Stan, but he’s just asking reasonable questions here, like which came first: the chicken or the egg?
Let @cucktard fan out on Powell. He ain’t hurting’ nobody.
From my point of view, this Ace/Indy thing is akin to that mythical snake that eats itself, the Ouroboros, and frankly Mr. Shankly, I love it!
Chomp, chomp, chomp.
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Quick review of stage 4 (146)
Coming off of Ace classic 44’s.
First week of skating on the stage 4 and my impressions are that they are heavier than what I’m used to. The weight feels similar to Indy standard and the wheelbase and how it affects the pop feels similar to Ace classic. I haven’t measured of weighed either but that’s how it feels to me.
The stock bushings are hard, so I switched out the top bushing for a softer one from my 109’s. Riding them where they are just shy of wobbly loose, the turn feels very similar to Ace classic.
Grind feels fine, similar to Ace af1. Metal is harder than ace classics.
Overall, they feel like a harder, heavier Ace classic. Other than that, I like the look of them.
Will update once I put more wear on them and experiment with different bushing set ups.
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Stage 4’s are a reissue truck. Reissue boards are extremely popular. Why not reissue trucks?
My honest opinion is that Indy was probably getting sick of hearing people compare their trucks to a copy of their trucks, so they said,”Fuck it” and put out the Stage 4 to compete.
Pretty good mask over saying it’s just a reissue and doing the 6 hole baseplates on all the sizes. But if these take off and sell really well, I guarantee there will be hollows, forged, and pro models in the future. NHS is about their money
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Ace trucks were definitely a child of early Indy’s. Let’s not forget the “inspiration” Indy borrowed from Bennett Trucks for their earliest design iterations too.
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Quick review of stage 4 (146)
Coming off of Ace classic 44’s.
First week of skating on the stage 4 and my impressions are that they are heavier than what I’m used to. The weight feels similar to Indy standard and the wheelbase and how it affects the pop feels similar to Ace classic. I haven’t measured of weighed either but that’s how it feels to me.
The stock bushings are hard, so I switched out the top bushing for a softer one from my 109’s. Riding them where they are just shy of wobbly loose, the turn feels very similar to Ace classic.
Grind feels fine, similar to Ace af1. Metal is harder than ace classics.
Overall, they feel like a harder, heavier Ace classic. Other than that, I like the look of them.
Will update once I put more wear on them and experiment with different bushing set ups.
I don't know if or when we will see them here in Australia, but I am totally thinking about cutting the top bushing down a bit, which seems like it would solve most of the "bushings are just a bit too hard" information I am seeing.
Not a worry either way, but at least for people who need a stiffer ride, they should work well, or for others, taking a mm off the top bushing should give it a whole lot more room to move, as I had done with a lot of stock truck bushings for lightweights or kids over the years.
Either way, I am not jumping out of my seat to get a set, but I think it would be interesting to set a pair up and have a roll, if nothing more than just to see for myself.
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Not to get up in anyone’s personals, but I’d be curious to know the weight of anyone saying the bushings are too hard.
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Everyone just wanted a stage 7 reissue, I don’t think I’ll cop the 4s because the bushings seem way too specific and aftermarket ones won’t be released for another 3 or so months. I haven’t ridden indies in a long time and was actually contemplating the 4s, but will probably just cop some stage 11 hollows and cal it a day!
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Not to get up in anyone’s personals, but I’d be curious to know the weight of anyone saying the bushings are too hard.
I'm 200lbs but it has been pretty cold when I've been using them... Still... they don't feel like 90a to me.
I just put Ace top bushings in them but now they feel weirdly unstable on center. With Ace, I can just keep stock bushings and call it good.
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Not to get up in anyone’s personals, but I’d be curious to know the weight of anyone saying the bushings are too hard.
I'm 200lbs but it has been pretty cold when I've been using them... Still... they don't feel like 90a to me.
I just put Ace top bushings in them but now they feel weirdly unstable on center. With Ace, I can just keep stock bushings and call it good.
Thanks for the info! I hover around 180, so I’m interested in seeing how they’ll feel for me. I’m dying to get out there to test them out.
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Not to get up in anyone’s personals, but I’d be curious to know the weight of anyone saying the bushings are too hard.
I’m about 170 at the moment
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Quick review of stage 4 (146)
Coming off of Ace classic 44’s.
First week of skating on the stage 4 and my impressions are that they are heavier than what I’m used to. The weight feels similar to Indy standard and the wheelbase and how it affects the pop feels similar to Ace classic. I haven’t measured of weighed either but that’s how it feels to me.
The stock bushings are hard, so I switched out the top bushing for a softer one from my 109’s. Riding them where they are just shy of wobbly loose, the turn feels very similar to Ace classic.
Grind feels fine, similar to Ace af1. Metal is harder than ace classics.
Overall, they feel like a harder, heavier Ace classic. Other than that, I like the look of them.
Will update once I put more wear on them and experiment with different bushing set ups.
I don't know if or when we will see them here in Australia, but I am totally thinking about cutting the top bushing down a bit, which seems like it would solve most of the "bushings are just a bit too hard" information I am seeing.
Not a worry either way, but at least for people who need a stiffer ride, they should work well, or for others, taking a mm off the top bushing should give it a whole lot more room to move, as I had done with a lot of stock truck bushings for lightweights or kids over the years.
Either way, I am not jumping out of my seat to get a set, but I think it would be interesting to set a pair up and have a roll, if nothing more than just to see for myself.
Yeah, that’s why I used the 109 top. They are a bit shorter and softer than the stock bushings. I’m planning on trying ace bushings in them next to see what the result is like
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Quick review of stage 4 (146)
Coming off of Ace classic 44’s.
First week of skating on the stage 4 and my impressions are that they are heavier than what I’m used to. The weight feels similar to Indy standard and the wheelbase and how it affects the pop feels similar to Ace classic. I haven’t measured of weighed either but that’s how it feels to me.
The stock bushings are hard, so I switched out the top bushing for a softer one from my 109’s. Riding them where they are just shy of wobbly loose, the turn feels very similar to Ace classic.
Grind feels fine, similar to Ace af1. Metal is harder than ace classics.
Overall, they feel like a harder, heavier Ace classic. Other than that, I like the look of them.
Will update once I put more wear on them and experiment with different bushing set ups.
Thanks for this. Guess I'm sticking to Ace classics
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All ace riders are Indy riders too.
Not all Indy riders are ace riders though.
Sort of one of those square vs rectangle things.
All Indy riders change there pivot cups, bushings/cut bushings, switch out baseplate for inverted kingpin then check to see if hanger is compatible with forged plates. if you need all that to make the truck work maybe it's you.
ACE mfs just ride the truck stock.
This guy thinks Nollie flips are hard.
Mostly the presumption that die hard acers aren't flipping their board nollie or switch much, therein not needing to tinker to find preference for different uses.
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All ace riders are Indy riders too.
Not all Indy riders are ace riders though.
Sort of one of those square vs rectangle things.
All Indy riders change there pivot cups, bushings/cut bushings, switch out baseplate for inverted kingpin then check to see if hanger is compatible with forged plates. if you need all that to make the truck work maybe it's you.
ACE mfs just ride the truck stock.
This guy thinks Nollie flips are hard.
Plenty of ace guys tinker too, but I get your point.
With all of the Indy options, tinkering can kinda get you any type of truck you want.
But most ace guys are just looking for a super surfy, ace like truck.
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As someone who surfs nearly as much as he skates I never understood what is meant by a 'surfy' truck.
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I caved and got a set of Stage IV 151s.
I went to the shop on my lunch break and the folks working were kind enough to let measure the height on them and a set of AF1 60s before purchasing (without making fun of me to my face). As someone mentioned a few pages ago, the Stage IVs are not 55mm tall but are just about an average of 53.5mm like the AF1s.
Just pushing back from he shop and skating a little bit of flat, I really like the stock bushings. With Indy, I typically swap the stocks out for blue barrel or Ace low but these are good as-is. Looking forward to skating some curbs on them tomorrow. I'll also measure the KP angle and all that stuff.
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Those bushings will firm up real quick next time you skate them.
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I caved and got a set of Stage IV 151s.
I went to the shop on my lunch break and the folks working were kind enough to let measure the height on them and a set of AF1 60s before purchasing (without making fun of me to my face). As someone mentioned a few pages ago, the Stage IVs are not 55mm tall but are just about an average of 53.5mm like the AF1s.
Just pushing back from he shop and skating a little bit of flat, I really like the stock bushings. With Indy, I typically swap the stocks out for blue barrel or Ace low but these are good as-is. Looking forward to skating some curbs on them tomorrow. I'll also measure the KP angle and all that stuff.
This truck seemed kinda made for what you’ve described as enjoying.
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Got some 146s.
The hanger looks cool but there is some noticeable heft to them.
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I caved and got a set of Stage IV 151s.
I went to the shop on my lunch break and the folks working were kind enough to let measure the height on them and a set of AF1 60s before purchasing (without making fun of me to my face). As someone mentioned a few pages ago, the Stage IVs are not 55mm tall but are just about an average of 53.5mm like the AF1s.
Just pushing back from he shop and skating a little bit of flat, I really like the stock bushings. With Indy, I typically swap the stocks out for blue barrel or Ace low but these are good as-is. Looking forward to skating some curbs on them tomorrow. I'll also measure the KP angle and all that stuff.
This truck seemed kinda made for what you’ve described as enjoying.
I loved: ‘Without making fun of me to my face’…the ideal skateshop scenario. I don’t live close to a shop, and when I do shop for gear, I can be a little wild eyed, mumbling about wb and shit, 8-10 years ago…not rad, when I know I’m the kook, and I can’t stop.
Measuring truck height seems normal to me. I’ve gone thru some complicated decision making when it comes to decks and shoe sizing, that had to look painful.
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I caved and got a set of Stage IV 151s.
I went to the shop on my lunch break and the folks working were kind enough to let measure the height on them and a set of AF1 60s before purchasing (without making fun of me to my face). As someone mentioned a few pages ago, the Stage IVs are not 55mm tall but are just about an average of 53.5mm like the AF1s.
Just pushing back from he shop and skating a little bit of flat, I really like the stock bushings. With Indy, I typically swap the stocks out for blue barrel or Ace low but these are good as-is. Looking forward to skating some curbs on them tomorrow. I'll also measure the KP angle and all that stuff.
This truck seemed kinda made for what you’ve described as enjoying.
I loved: ‘Without making fun of me to my face’…the ideal skateshop scenario. I don’t live close to a shop, and when I do shop for gear, I can be a little wild eyed, mumbling about wb and shit, 8-10 years ago…not rad, when I know I’m the kook, and I can’t stop.
Measuring truck height seems normal to me. I’ve gone thru some complicated decision making when it comes to decks and shoe sizing, that had to look painful.
I definitely had to try really hard not to over-explain myself and at least once said, "I'm really sorry for being such a punisher."
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As someone who surfs nearly as much as he skates I never understood what is meant by a 'surfy' truck.
A way for people who don't surf to describe something that has a deep, progressive turn
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As someone who surfs nearly as much as he skates I never understood what is meant by a 'surfy' truck.
A way for people who don't surf to describe something that has a deep, progressive turn
That makes sense, I tried someones setup at the park with those Carver surfskate trucks and those really feel like a "surfy" tuck. Not really something I'd want to really spend a lot of time on outside of the novelty factor.
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As someone who surfs nearly as much as he skates I never understood what is meant by a 'surfy' truck.
Pretty sure it means that your pivot cups are blown out, but the people saying surfy dont know that.
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Whether you're a die hard stage 7 guy, or a self loathing Indy rider that keeps coming back no matter what other trucks you try, this is the place to discuss independent trucks. We have a thread for every other brand. Might as well have one for the most popular brand, so we can stop separating all of the Indy info. The pictures of the new ones being designed currently are what motivated me to make this thread. Please post any new info on them in here. Leave the truck set ups thread for discussions on fucking with your trucks.
EDIT: Adding additional Indy info/threads below. DM me if you have anything that should go here.
(https://i.ibb.co/qmP6dgn/Screenshot-20220921-094830.png) (https://ibb.co/qmP6dgn)
Weight:
144 Forged Hollow: 359g
144 Ti: 333g
149 Mid - 409g
149 Standard - 394g
149 Mid Hollow - 392g
149 Mid Hollow Forged - 379g
149 Hollow - 369g
149 Hollow Forged - 358g
149 TI - 340g
Height:
Standard plates 55mm
Forged plates 53.5mm
Mids 52mm
Forged mids 50.5mm
Bushing specs: These are the rough listed measurements, they vary by about .2 - .3 mm
Top: 10 mm
Bottom: 13 mm
Stage 4 bushings
Bottom: 14mm
Top: 12mm
Wheelbase Effect:
reg height cast plates + 3.00"
forged plates +3.1875
Indy stage 4 reissues on NHS site
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-4-polished-skateboard-trucks-independent?variant=43310976401565
Jenkem article on the cult following of Indys
http://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
Indy Mid (Mindy) thread
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.0
Thread on Skull and Bones about the differences between Indy stages
https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132955&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=independent&start=0 (https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132955&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=independent&start=0)
Thread on Indy pivot cups
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106369.0
Thread on Indy inverted Kingpin baseplate issue
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=118450.0
I think there is an error with the weight on the 149 forged hollow, I weighted mine and they are 365 grms not 358. Thoughts?
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I think there is an error with the weight on the 149 forged hollow, I weighted mine and they are 365 grms not 358. Thoughts?
Think less, skate more.
After the right amount of feeble and smithgrinds, your 149s will also weigh 358 grams. Trust the process.
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Stage 4s are not 55mm tall.
I'm looking at them right now and it's same height as AF1
53.5
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So do Stage IVs just feel like Aces to call out Ace for ripping off the IV and hopefully get some sales back?
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Not quite. Ace still turn better IMO. Stage 4s feel weird on center, especially if you ride them with softer bushings than stock.
Ace have that magical quality whereby even when loose they feel comfortable on center. If anything these Stage 4s reissues confirmed to me that Shrewgy and Joey T really know their shit and tapped into some pretty flawless geometry.
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So do Stage IVs just feel like Aces to call out Ace for ripping off the IV and hopefully get some sales back?
Ofcourse it is.
If Independent wanted to please fans they would bring back the Stage 7.
ACE has you guys all worked up, bringing back a 40 year old truck just to say "TuRns BetTer ThEn ANY IMITATION"
Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
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I think there is an error with the weight on the 149 forged hollow, I weighted mine and they are 365 grms not 358. Thoughts?
Think less, skate more.
After the right amount of feeble and smithgrinds, your 149s will also weigh 358 grams. Trust the process.
no idea, i dont have two new pairs to weigh. this info is submitted by other users so it could be wrong, but its the best we've got right now.
Stage 4s are not 55mm tall.
I'm looking at them right now and it's same height as AF1
53.5
will add this now.
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Not quite. Ace still turn better IMO. Stage 4s feel weird on center, especially if you ride them with softer bushings than stock.
Ace have that magical quality whereby even when loose they feel comfortable on center. If anything these Stage 4s reissues confirmed to me that Shrewgy and Joey T really know their shit and tapped into some pretty flawless geometry.
This is exactly what I needed to hear.
Thank you!
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Welp, I'm tired of reading reviews saying one or the other so I picked up some 146's and will test them tomorrow stock bushings and a flat top Bones washer. I always swap it for the cupped top washer no matter what trucks I'm riding.
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Those bushings will firm up real quick next time you skate them.
Indeed. Got to put in some more time on them and they did firm up pretty significantly.
I'm honestly shocked they're going to make not one, but two harder duro aftermarkets and not a single softer one. Don't get me wrong, I am fine with the stocks but also recognize that people who want something really loose are not going to be into it. Or maybe they really did engineer these for fat old heads?
Overall though, I am a fan. The pop feel is exactly what I like, they turning radius is amazing, and they grind well/are meatier than they appear in photos.
I feel a little weird abandoning my nicely grooved stage 11s. Might put those back on and save these?
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Those bushings will firm up real quick next time you skate them.
Indeed. Got to put in some more time on them and they did firm up pretty significantly.
I'm honestly shocked they're going to make not one, but two harder duro aftermarkets and not a single softer one. Don't get me wrong, I am fine with the stocks but also recognize that people who want something really loose are not going to be into it. Or maybe they really did engineer these for fat old heads?
Overall though, I am a fan. The pop feel is exactly what I like, they turning radius is amazing, and they grind well/are meatier than they appear in photos.
I feel a little weird abandoning my nicely grooved stage 11s. Might put those back on and save these?
Would be hilarious if indy just outright admitted that
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
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Are the washers that come with the aftermarket Independent bushings different than what the trucks ship with?
I was setting up my dad's board (Indy 159 standards - stage 11) and the bushings kept slipping out of their washers, leaving the trucks heeled over to one side. We tried a set of 94a and 90a and both had this slipping.
(https://i.imgur.com/j3oXCOr.jpg)
We've been trying a few different bushing duros and the washers have changed around. I eventually found the set of washers the truck originally came with and they had a deeper cup to the washer than what the aftermarket kit came with.
Here's an after when we swapped in the new bushings and the OG washers:
(https://i.imgur.com/5Nhb3d0.jpg)
After swapping, the board rode normally and had good return to center. The bushings in the kit would not return to center since they slipped out of the washer. This sounds like a crazy conspiracy and I've been comparing the other Indy sets I have around. It seems like the original washers from my stage 10 139s are also a little thicker and have more cup to them. There seems to be a loose factory tolerance overall though and some sets are thinner, less cupping than others.
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Never use the washers in the replacement bushing pack this always happens.
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you've those trucks cranked down so that's not helping any. i've had the bottoms slip out like that on aftermarkets, never the tops. it went away on all of mine after a day or two.
if you can, set up new trucks and cruise them around for a couple days before you need to skate them, tighten them.
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Above all……what a good son! Setting up a Christmas complete for dad?
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Never use the washers in the replacement bushing pack this always happens.
As usual, opposite for me.
I prefer the aftermarket’s because they are snugger/shallower than the stocks and have never had an issue like the poster above (but I nut flush not go three threads deep on soft bushings).
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Above all……what a good son! Setting up a Christmas complete for dad?
My dad kneed me in the leg after I called him a noisey c*nt and then I called him weak for not controlling his emotions. I got a sore leg now, he's a big, fat bully and he can'y even ollie.
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Never use the washers in the replacement bushing pack this always happens.
As usual, opposite for me.
I prefer the aftermarket’s because they are snugger/shallower than the stocks and have never had an issue like the poster above (but I nut flush not go three threads deep on soft bushings).
I run 1 thread showing and the top splooges often for me. I do know that at least my local shop recommends people not use the aftermarket washers either. Maybe they're different now and this is an old news issue.
I do have a stubborn friend that cranks oranges but this doesn't happen. It does look heinous and he destroys the bushings way sooner than if he was riding the blacks he's supposed to.
On a side note I checked out Leo Romero's setup video after seeing his new part. Aftermarket yellows or Bones hards cranked to hell. The opposite of Max Palmer.
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(https://i.ibb.co/PhRMLD6/DSC03690.jpg)
Finally got them.
Independent stage 11 129 low
(https://i.ibb.co/XCPcPCM/DSC03691.jpg)
Shot of the low bushings, a much slimmer top bushing.
(https://i.ibb.co/vdt3tK4/DSC03693.jpg)
I weighed them in at 353grams each, very nice. 8)
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On a side note I checked out Leo Romero's setup video after seeing his new part. Aftermarket yellows or Bones hards cranked to hell. The opposite of Max Palmer.
i'm gonna have to re-watch his new part, that's crazy!
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(https://i.ibb.co/PhRMLD6/DSC03690.jpg)
Finally got them.
Independent stage 11 129 low
(https://i.ibb.co/XCPcPCM/DSC03691.jpg)
Shot of the low bushings, a much slimmer top bushing.
(https://i.ibb.co/vdt3tK4/DSC03693.jpg)
I weighed them in at 353grams each, very nice. 8)
Do you happen to know the height of the bushings on the lows? I have a set of Lows that need bushings and since I can‘t find any replacements in Europe I‘ll probably have to shave down some standards…
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That would be tricky and take a little time. It's not undoable but you might be sanding them down quite a lot. I would find another brand of low bushings closer you where you are or try some bones bushings. I am interested to see if you are successful if you try to do it. I'm just going to skate these as is without touching them in any way. I will make sure to give my thoughts and get back to you.
Alternatively you could buy the bullet and get these: https://www.chutingstar.com/independent-trucks-low-conical-cushions-92a-medium-hard-blue
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Finally got them.
Independent stage 11 129 low
hot of the low bushings, a much slimmer top bushing.
I weighed them in at 353grams each, very nice. 8)
Do you happen to know the height of the bushings on the lows? I have a set of Lows that need bushings and since I can‘t find any replacements in Europe I‘ll probably have to shave down some standards…
Yeah any of those bushings with "low" in the title will fit better than regular height bushings, but you can always cut the tops down as well from any other stock or aftermarket bushings.
Funny that there are still some of those bushings around, but they sure do work a treat for making normal trucks kingpin nut sit lower as well.
In the Indy low trucks I have, the bottom bushing is the same as the standard, just the top bushing is lower.
Even just flick through these pics and I have the bushings shown in the sixth frame.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CmNvYQpJBiG/
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
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(https://i.ibb.co/PhRMLD6/DSC03690.jpg)
Finally got them.
Independent stage 11 129 low
(https://i.ibb.co/XCPcPCM/DSC03691.jpg)
Shot of the low bushings, a much slimmer top bushing.
(https://i.ibb.co/vdt3tK4/DSC03693.jpg)
I weighed them in at 353grams each, very nice. 8)
dang, havent seen these in a while.
Whats the height difference between these and the mids?
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Whats the height difference between these and the mids?
[/quote]If mids are 52mm I'm guessing these are... 50mm??
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I liked Mids, but not the IKP issues.
Forged Hollows are too light of pop for me on lots of mellower decks, but otherwise nice
Standards for me are cool, but sometimes a bit clunky and my nollie ghost pop is real.
So if stage IV is same WB as standards more or less, 53ish height, and a nice standard hefty pop to em, these are the ones for me right?!?!?
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
I don't think the people that want Stage 7 actually remember them for what they were. The KP clearance wasn't good, they had a super hefty pop feel, and they were generally an ugly stage. I'm sure a reissue wouldn't have the horrible axle slip either. Ben D did a video on em and details a lot of their shortcomings. They weren't any more turn-y than stage IX, it's just some weird nostalgia or pro neurosis.
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
I don't think the people that want Stage 7 actually remember them for what they were. The KP clearance wasn't good, they had a super hefty pop feel, and they were generally an ugly stage. I'm sure a reissue wouldn't have the horrible axle slip either. Ben D did a video on em and details a lot of their shortcomings. They weren't any more turn-y than stage IX, it's just some weird nostalgia or pro neurosis.
IMO nobody really wants any of these things. Obviously this is pure speculation at this point, but I think that, after the initial rush of skate nerds buying something shiny and new, no one will really care about Stage IV Indys, because once again the fundamental misunderstanding here is that skaters are actively looking for a truck which skates like an Independent Stage III/IV, when in fact they are just looking to skate a brand which is not Independent.
No matter what, I think it's safe to say that any further reissues will be determined by the success of the Stage IVs.
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
I don't think the people that want Stage 7 actually remember them for what they were. The KP clearance wasn't good, they had a super hefty pop feel, and they were generally an ugly stage. I'm sure a reissue wouldn't have the horrible axle slip either. Ben D did a video on em and details a lot of their shortcomings. They weren't any more turn-y than stage IX, it's just some weird nostalgia or pro neurosis.
One nice thing about the older stages is the grind. The aluminum is a different alloy and they push through a bit nicer.
That said, I still skate my stage 11s way more often. I skated my stage 6 so infrequently that I gave them to my daughter's friend. I have to remember that when I keep getting tempted by the stage 4s that aren't even going to have the benefit of the old alloy grind.
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
I don't think the people that want Stage 7 actually remember them for what they were. The KP clearance wasn't good, they had a super hefty pop feel, and they were generally an ugly stage. I'm sure a reissue wouldn't have the horrible axle slip either. Ben D did a video on em and details a lot of their shortcomings. They weren't any more turn-y than stage IX, it's just some weird nostalgia or pro neurosis.
Stage 7 did turn better than 9s. They really fucked up with 9s.
I think Indy could take the best attributes of 5 thru 7 and come up with a good truck but really the stage 11 is just that. The stage 4 was really the right one to reissue as it was the last truck before the hollow body hanger came out and they made enough improvements to make it work for modern skateboarding.
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
I don't think the people that want Stage 7 actually remember them for what they were. The KP clearance wasn't good, they had a super hefty pop feel, and they were generally an ugly stage. I'm sure a reissue wouldn't have the horrible axle slip either. Ben D did a video on em and details a lot of their shortcomings. They weren't any more turn-y than stage IX, it's just some weird nostalgia or pro neurosis.
Stage 7 did turn better than 9s. They really fucked up with 9s.
I think Indy could take the best attributes of 5 thru 7 and come up with a good truck but really the stage 11 is just that. The stage 4 was really the right one to reissue as it was the last truck before the hollow body hanger came out and they made enough improvements to make it work for modern skateboarding.
I believe Independent has said that the Stage XI is basically the best attributes of the Stage III/IV (carve) and the Stage VIII (street). But yeah, all this clamoring is strange because the Stage XI is a great fucking truck.
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I don't think the people that want Stage 7 actually remember them for what they were. The KP clearance wasn't good, they had a super hefty pop feel, and they were generally an ugly stage. I'm sure a reissue wouldn't have the horrible axle slip either. Ben D did a video on em and details a lot of their shortcomings. They weren't any more turn-y than stage IX, it's just some weird nostalgia or pro neurosis.
What I remember most about Stage 7s was the axle slip. It was there from day one with those trucks, but continued to get worse and worse the more you rode them and landed sideways. Eventually the trucks became unrideable even if there was material left on the hanger.
Come to think of it, a lot of trucks back then had problems with axle slip. I do remember Indy Stage 7s being among the worst with it though.
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(https://i.ibb.co/PhRMLD6/DSC03690.jpg)
Finally got them.
Independent stage 11 129 low
(https://i.ibb.co/XCPcPCM/DSC03691.jpg)
Shot of the low bushings, a much slimmer top bushing.
(https://i.ibb.co/vdt3tK4/DSC03693.jpg)
I weighed them in at 353grams each, very nice. 8)
Do you happen to know the height of the bushings on the lows? I have a set of Lows that need bushings and since I can‘t find any replacements in Europe I‘ll probably have to shave down some standards…
Pick up yourself a set of ACE low bushings and thank me later =D
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I'm kinda jealous of peoples knowledge/experience with the various stages
but at the same time kinda thankful that i dont have it, i feel like it would stir the madness more than anything
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I'm kinda jealous of peoples knowledge/experience with the various stages
but at the same time kinda thankful that i dont have it, i feel like it would stir the madness more than anything
It is a primarily nostalgia-based and completely pointless madness. As someone who has publicly wished for a Stage VII reissue, I know fully well that the Stage XI that I already have are objectively better. Still, I fetishize little non-/dys-fuctional aesthetics of the VII because they're the first trucks I ever had and they're my "Ur-truck".
Also, FWIW I did end up putting the XI back on my board. The IV look cool and the pop feel is great, but at the end of the day they aren't different enough for me to abandon a nicely grooved set of broken in trucks.
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The Mids are 52mm tall, Pretty standard street truck height. Lows are 48.5mm tall. Mids are 3.5mm taller in height than the lows.
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
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After all that stage talk, I feel inclined to remind people that stage VIII had the ultimate turn for street, and was even slightly lower than VII. Unfortunately, that magic geo meant the worst kingpin clearance there ever was. I have a set that is drilled out to fit an IKP, and it's hella groovy. Just hope they don't axle slip.
Wish there was a way to bring that geo back in a more functional way.
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
Yeah. I went from blues to ace low. I would recommend trying some combo of the standards first, once they firm up the Ace hards are going to feel a lot firmer than the blues and part of the magic is having a hard top medium bottom.
Most folks do a top from a set of lows and a bottom from standards. I just run a set of lows because it lowers the trucks slightly and pushes the WB in a little.
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
For me, they aren't even nice on Ace trucks 🤭
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
Yeah. I went from blues to ace low. I would recommend trying some combo of the standards first, once they firm up the Ace hards are going to feel a lot firmer than the blues and part of the magic is having a hard top medium bottom.
Most folks do a top from a set of lows and a bottom from standards. I just run a set of lows because it lowers the trucks slightly and pushes the WB in a little.
if you dont mind, how much do you weigh so I know for comparison?
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
Yeah. I went from blues to ace low. I would recommend trying some combo of the standards first, once they firm up the Ace hards are going to feel a lot firmer than the blues and part of the magic is having a hard top medium bottom.
Most folks do a top from a set of lows and a bottom from standards. I just run a set of lows because it lowers the trucks slightly and pushes the WB in a little.
if you dont mind, how much do you weigh so I know for comparison?
I fluctuate between 200 and 210 depending on the time of the year.
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
Yeah. I went from blues to ace low. I would recommend trying some combo of the standards first, once they firm up the Ace hards are going to feel a lot firmer than the blues and part of the magic is having a hard top medium bottom.
Most folks do a top from a set of lows and a bottom from standards. I just run a set of lows because it lowers the trucks slightly and pushes the WB in a little.
if you dont mind, how much do you weigh so I know for comparison?
I fluctuate between 200 and 210 depending on the time of the year.
we the same. thanks for the input 8)
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
Yeah. I went from blues to ace low. I would recommend trying some combo of the standards first, once they firm up the Ace hards are going to feel a lot firmer than the blues and part of the magic is having a hard top medium bottom.
Most folks do a top from a set of lows and a bottom from standards. I just run a set of lows because it lowers the trucks slightly and pushes the WB in a little.
Yeah, ACE hards are haaaaard. I ride the blues and/or bones meds or ace dual duro in my indys (with a LOW ace top). Since I'm now around 190, I find the blue bottoms, with a yellow top to be better for me over the ACE dual duro these days.
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how did the ace bushings affect the turn?
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how did the ace bushings affect the turn?
I found they made them snappier. That said, you can get the same result mixing duros with indy bushings.
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
yes, joey! i did know that. also i'd be much more interested in hearing Shrewgy's opinion on trucks than either of the ace joey's. but i did love me some project hardware!
and no, no it's not crazy they would bring stage 4's back. some of the 1st real trucks me and kids from my era would've rode.
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how did the ace bushings affect the turn?
Ace bushings are kind of an enigma to me. You can just kind of put them wherever you want while leaning on the turn and they stay where you put them. They don’t reflexively bounce around like the newer Indy bushings, but they don’t fall of the end of the turn like the mushy DLX bushings either, and they don’t get affected by temperature changes as much.
The Ace hard bushings are 94A, but they definitely don’t skate as hard as the 94A Indy bushings (black ones). The secret is you only tighten them to the point that they’re secure, that is, if you can barely rotate the bottom washer with your fingers, it’s perfect. They curb the wheelbite but still turn much like the regular Ace bushings at that point. One you tighten them past that, they quickly become like any other hard bushing.
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
yes, joey! i did know that. also i'd be much more interested in hearing Shrewgy's opinion on trucks than either of the ace joey's. but i did love me some project hardware!
and no, no it's not crazy they would bring stage 4's back. some of the 1st real trucks me and kids from my era would've rode.
Oh Indy brought back this truck for 50+ year old men who don't skate got it.
If you can't flip your board I don't really care about your opinion.
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
I put some Ace Classics bushings on my Indys after the stock ones blew out and they’re great. I already think that Ace and Indy skate alike but with the Ace bushings, it’s hard for me to tell the difference.
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Are ACE bushings actually nice on indys? I have just been riding the blue cyllinder indy bushings but now Im interested in trying maybe some ace hards.
I put some Ace Classics bushings on my Indys after the stock ones blew out and they’re great. I already think that Ace and Indy skate alike but with the Ace bushings, it’s hard for me to tell the difference.
I'm glad you mention this. Been having a spell of madness recently, my mind being unsettled between ace classic, stage 11, and now the stage 4s I couldn't resist trying. I run ace low bushings in my 11s, the others stock.
Now that I've ran all 3 in the same week, I'm realizing none of them are different enough for me to warrant anything other than skating the most grooved up/broken in set of any of them.
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I just fucked with these stage 4's a bunch and found the stock bushings to be absolutely horrible at 180lbs. Like, no rebound, just totally dead and tight feeling bushings, and I feel like I'm the first to mention that which makes me wonder if I got a bunk set or something. Nowadays even the stage 11 stock bushings are pretty damn good and carvey, but not these.
Anyway, so I grabbed a set of Ace standard medium bushings and the bottoms are actually a couple hairs shorter than the stock Stage 4's. But I have some flat washers that Riptide once gave me when I ordered bushings and they make bushings sit just a little bit higher vs stock cup washers. So it brought them to the proper height. Then just Ace top bushings with no top washers. Totally revived the trucks, the turning is insanely good. I could almost do two full circles in the same spot with all four wheels touching the ground. I do think these might be better than Ace's. Still felt stable on center, even when doing that kinda one foot steering you can get away with on Ace's cause of the twitchy geometry.
TLDR; Indy stage 4's are amazing with Ace medium bushings and seem to turn even better than Ace's. 146's are what I'm on, btw.
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I just fucked with these stage 4's a bunch and found the stock bushings to be absolutely horrible at 180lbs. Like, no rebound, just totally dead and tight feeling bushings, and I feel like I'm the first to mention that which makes me wonder if I got a bunk set or something. Nowadays even the stage 11 stock bushings are pretty damn good and carvey, but not these.
Anyway, so I grabbed a set of Ace standard medium bushings and the bottoms are actually a couple hairs shorter than the stock Stage 4's. But I have some flat washers that Riptide once gave me when I ordered bushings and they make bushings sit just a little bit higher vs stock cup washers. So it brought them to the proper height. Then just Ace top bushings with no top washers. Totally revived the trucks, the turning is insanely good. I could almost do two full circles in the same spot with all four wheels touching the ground. I do think these might be better than Ace's. Still felt stable on center, even when doing that kinda one foot steering you can get away with on Ace's cause of the twitchy geometry.
TLDR; Indy stage 4's are amazing with Ace medium bushings and seem to turn even better than Ace's. 146's are what I'm on, btw.
B
Nope I said it multiple times. Once broken in they are too firm. Mine did not feel good with softer bushings though, as unlike you I did not like they way they felt on center. I think I'll leave mine with stock bushings and hope things loosen up as we go...
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Not even a year after the AF1 came out.
you realize, the stage 4 reissue probably took more than a year of work from start to finish, to release? indy was most likely planning this before anyone but ace knew there was an af1 coming.
Do you realize Joey Tershay worked for Indy and told them they should reissue those trucks 15 years ago before ACE was even a company?
Crazy they decided to bring those trucks back right?
And not the STAGE 7 that people actually want
yes, joey! i did know that. also i'd be much more interested in hearing Shrewgy's opinion on trucks than either of the ace joey's. but i did love me some project hardware!
and no, no it's not crazy they would bring stage 4's back. some of the 1st real trucks me and kids from my era would've rode.
Oh Indy brought back this truck for 50+ year old men who don't skate got it.
If you can't flip your board I don't really care about your opinion.
yeah, who do you think santa cruz & powell bring back all the reissues for? this truck is what was on most of those santa cruz & powell boards if those people didn't have cracker trucks. it's just crazy indy would bring these back! ::)
i'm still under 50, i started skating very young. who TF says i can't flip a skateboard, lol? i was most likely doing switch 360 flips before you were born since you think old people can't flip skateymaboards round thee ol parkygarage.
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I just fucked with these stage 4's a bunch and found the stock bushings to be absolutely horrible at 180lbs. Like, no rebound, just totally dead and tight feeling bushings, and I feel like I'm the first to mention that which makes me wonder if I got a bunk set or something. Nowadays even the stage 11 stock bushings are pretty damn good and carvey, but not these.
Anyway, so I grabbed a set of Ace standard medium bushings and the bottoms are actually a couple hairs shorter than the stock Stage 4's. But I have some flat washers that Riptide once gave me when I ordered bushings and they make bushings sit just a little bit higher vs stock cup washers. So it brought them to the proper height. Then just Ace top bushings with no top washers. Totally revived the trucks, the turning is insanely good. I could almost do two full circles in the same spot with all four wheels touching the ground. I do think these might be better than Ace's. Still felt stable on center, even when doing that kinda one foot steering you can get away with on Ace's cause of the twitchy geometry.
TLDR; Indy stage 4's are amazing with Ace medium bushings and seem to turn even better than Ace's. 146's are what I'm on, btw.
B
Nope I said it multiple times. Once broken in they are too firm. Mine did not feel good with softer bushings though, as unlike you I did not like they way they felt on center. I think I'll leave mine with stock bushings and hope things loosen up as we go...
It's still your winter there isn't it?
How cold is it and do you think that has anything to do with bushings feeling too hard?
Just curious.
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Yeah possibly. I've been skating in about low 40s to low 50s Fahrenheit.
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Yeah possibly. I've been skating in about low 40s to low 50s Fahrenheit.
I notice my bushings change under 50.
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Had the default bushings on these 149s cranked down a couple of threads cause I'm a big boy and like mediumish trucks. Felt kinda shitty cause they probably weren't broken in properly and I've only skated them in single-digit Celcius weather. They were also squeaky as all hell. Put in the after-market indy hard 94a black bushings, waxed up the pivot ball and cup and have the kingpin nut flush and they already feel 10x better just rolling around in socks in my basement. Squeak is gone too. Not sure if it was worth switching the washers too but they seemed thinner than the ones that came with the trucks so I thought I'd try them out to see if they squish the bushings down less. Now if only it wasn't raining/snowing for a week straight.
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Anyone have an idea how Stage 4s compare to Indy Standards?
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I just fucked with these stage 4's a bunch and found the stock bushings to be absolutely horrible at 180lbs. Like, no rebound, just totally dead and tight feeling bushings, and I feel like I'm the first to mention that which makes me wonder if I got a bunk set or something. Nowadays even the stage 11 stock bushings are pretty damn good and carvey, but not these.
Anyway, so I grabbed a set of Ace standard medium bushings and the bottoms are actually a couple hairs shorter than the stock Stage 4's. But I have some flat washers that Riptide once gave me when I ordered bushings and they make bushings sit just a little bit higher vs stock cup washers. So it brought them to the proper height. Then just Ace top bushings with no top washers. Totally revived the trucks, the turning is insanely good. I could almost do two full circles in the same spot with all four wheels touching the ground. I do think these might be better than Ace's. Still felt stable on center, even when doing that kinda one foot steering you can get away with on Ace's cause of the twitchy geometry.
TLDR; Indy stage 4's are amazing with Ace medium bushings and seem to turn even better than Ace's. 146's are what I'm on, btw.
Since me posting about a gear decision on here always results in my doing the opposite, after committing to my broken in 11s I read this and knew I had to try it.
Boy oh boy, they do turn nice.
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I just fucked with these stage 4's a bunch and found the stock bushings to be absolutely horrible at 180lbs. Like, no rebound, just totally dead and tight feeling bushings, and I feel like I'm the first to mention that which makes me wonder if I got a bunk set or something. Nowadays even the stage 11 stock bushings are pretty damn good and carvey, but not these.
Anyway, so I grabbed a set of Ace standard medium bushings and the bottoms are actually a couple hairs shorter than the stock Stage 4's. But I have some flat washers that Riptide once gave me when I ordered bushings and they make bushings sit just a little bit higher vs stock cup washers. So it brought them to the proper height. Then just Ace top bushings with no top washers. Totally revived the trucks, the turning is insanely good. I could almost do two full circles in the same spot with all four wheels touching the ground. I do think these might be better than Ace's. Still felt stable on center, even when doing that kinda one foot steering you can get away with on Ace's cause of the twitchy geometry.
TLDR; Indy stage 4's are amazing with Ace medium bushings and seem to turn even better than Ace's. 146's are what I'm on, btw.
Since me posting about a gear decision on here always results in my doing the opposite, after committing to my broken in 11s I read this and knew I had to try it.
Boy oh boy, they do turn nice.
There is something to this.
I'm starting to consider never making statements about my setup on here again.
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Anyone have an idea how Stage 4s compare to Indy Standards?
This has been discussed for a few pages now. Quicker and deeper in a nutshell.
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I just fucked with these stage 4's a bunch and found the stock bushings to be absolutely horrible at 180lbs. Like, no rebound, just totally dead and tight feeling bushings, and I feel like I'm the first to mention that which makes me wonder if I got a bunk set or something. Nowadays even the stage 11 stock bushings are pretty damn good and carvey, but not these.
Anyway, so I grabbed a set of Ace standard medium bushings and the bottoms are actually a couple hairs shorter than the stock Stage 4's. But I have some flat washers that Riptide once gave me when I ordered bushings and they make bushings sit just a little bit higher vs stock cup washers. So it brought them to the proper height. Then just Ace top bushings with no top washers. Totally revived the trucks, the turning is insanely good. I could almost do two full circles in the same spot with all four wheels touching the ground. I do think these might be better than Ace's. Still felt stable on center, even when doing that kinda one foot steering you can get away with on Ace's cause of the twitchy geometry.
TLDR; Indy stage 4's are amazing with Ace medium bushings and seem to turn even better than Ace's. 146's are what I'm on, btw.
Since me posting about a gear decision on here always results in my doing the opposite, after committing to my broken in 11s I read this and knew I had to try it.
Boy oh boy, they do turn nice.
There is something to this.
I'm starting to consider never making statements about my setup on here again.
I tell myself the same thing all the time, but I just can't help it.
"I think Indy and Ace are basically the same"
36 hours later: "FUCK THE REST!!!"
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You did the same and put in Ace bushings, if I'm reading correctly? Turn is so good isn't it? I usually hate even the idea of breaking in new trucks in the winter but man, after my outdoor sesh in them yesterday, I'm pumped to bring them to the indoor bowl, too and have a blast. I was never one to cast indy aside for any of the reasons people beat to death, I just never felt like they could beat that sweet sweet Ace geo. I'm glad they decided to reissue these, and aesthetically the hanger shape looks a lot cooler than stage 11's, imo.
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"I think Indy and Ace are basically the same"
36 hours later: "FUCK THE REST!!!"
lol
You did the same and put in Ace bushings, if I'm reading correctly? Turn is so good isn't it? I usually hate even the idea of breaking in new trucks in the winter but man, after my outdoor sesh in them yesterday, I'm pumped to bring them to the indoor bowl, too and have a blast. I was never one to cast indy aside for any of the reasons people beat to death, I just never felt like they could beat that sweet sweet Ace geo. I'm glad they decided to reissue these, and aesthetically the hanger shape looks a lot cooler than stage 11's, imo.
I like the look too.
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You did the same and put in Ace bushings, if I'm reading correctly? Turn is so good isn't it? I usually hate even the idea of breaking in new trucks in the winter but man, after my outdoor sesh in them yesterday, I'm pumped to bring them to the indoor bowl, too and have a blast. I was never one to cast indy aside for any of the reasons people beat to death, I just never felt like they could beat that sweet sweet Ace geo. I'm glad they decided to reissue these, and aesthetically the hanger shape looks a lot cooler than stage 11's, imo.
Yeah, took them from one of the many sets of classic 44s I have. The turn is super, super good. I don't want to be hyperbolic, but yeah...better than Ace classic.
I don't want to harp on it, but anyone from Indy/NHS lurking needs to get it together and scrap the idea of making two kinds of harder bushings for these.
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You did the same and put in Ace bushings, if I'm reading correctly? Turn is so good isn't it? I usually hate even the idea of breaking in new trucks in the winter but man, after my outdoor sesh in them yesterday, I'm pumped to bring them to the indoor bowl, too and have a blast. I was never one to cast indy aside for any of the reasons people beat to death, I just never felt like they could beat that sweet sweet Ace geo. I'm glad they decided to reissue these, and aesthetically the hanger shape looks a lot cooler than stage 11's, imo.
Yeah, took them from one of the many sets of classic 44s I have. The turn is super, super good. I don't want to be hyperbolic, but yeah...better than Ace classic.
I don't want to harp on it, but anyone from Indy/NHS lurking needs to get it together and scrap the idea of making two kinds of harder bushings for these.
You'd think they would prioritize softer bushings for a truck marketed for its turn. or at least a consistent offering across the range of usual durometers you find aftermarket bushings in
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As others have mentioned, the first session on the Stage 4's were fantastic. I thought these are going to be FUN.
But after a few hours when the bushings have broken in they just harden up and become less responsive. Just popped in some Ace bushings so hoping like others have found the trucks will become fun again :)
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Didn't look right having white bushings in an Indy, got the dye out and 5 mins later...
(https://i.postimg.cc/9zhNmg3H/4-CAE62-B9-A16-D-476-C-9391-4910-F4-AF0-A8-C.jpg) (http://https://postimg.cc/9zhNmg3H)
(https://i.postimg.cc/H8zMdsqn/E0-F8450-A-E368-441-B-A604-4-CB354-E1359-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H8zMdsqn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/s14HvPyQ/FB6-E87-C6-7-F2-E-4-A88-8-AFC-DB7-A7-E22-B48-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s14HvPyQ)
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Didn't look right having white bushings in an Indy, got the dye out and 5 mins later...
(https://i.postimg.cc/9zhNmg3H/4-CAE62-B9-A16-D-476-C-9391-4910-F4-AF0-A8-C.jpg) (http://https://postimg.cc/9zhNmg3H)
(https://i.postimg.cc/H8zMdsqn/E0-F8450-A-E368-441-B-A604-4-CB354-E1359-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H8zMdsqn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/s14HvPyQ/FB6-E87-C6-7-F2-E-4-A88-8-AFC-DB7-A7-E22-B48-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s14HvPyQ)
Nice job
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My mistake bros the new ACE STAGE 4 are 55mm tall.
Super good trucks.
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Just had a solid indoor mini ramp session on the Stage 4s and I think the bushings are now getting a better. I really want to make these trucks work stock and I think they will. Even if they feel a little tight, the turn more than makes up for it.
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mine are working great, yesterday was cold balls and the bushings got a little firm. but today was nice out and the bushings felt like all the other days.
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It might be old news to you but it looks like you can order them online now, only the 136mm and 146mm at the moment from what I can see
https://socalskateshop.com/independent-trucks-all.html?mc_cid=c8a9e08806&mc_eid=ac34e5bca8
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I’m glad I resisted the Stage 4s. I don’t need that level of madness or to like a truck that’s in limited supply/may get discontinued one day 😅
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They're not insanely better than Ace's. If they discontinued these I'd transition back just fine. They just seem to be a lil sharper and deeper....with Ace bushings tho, for sure.
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They're not insanely better than Ace's. If they discontinued these I'd transition back just fine. They just seem to be a lil sharper and deeper....with Ace bushings tho, for sure.
I enjoy the this new ACE STAGE 4.
Real Indys have the Iron cross on them.
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I’m glad I resisted the Stage 4s. I don’t need that level of madness or to like a truck that’s in limited supply/may get discontinued one day 😅
I'm a gear whore that likes to try everything and I've zero desire to pick these up.
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I’m glad I resisted the Stage 4s. I don’t need that level of madness or to like a truck that’s in limited supply/may get discontinued one day 😅
If you like a deep turn, you're already on Aces.
if these go anywhere, you'll just go back to "old reliable."
I've got a pair on the way, but purely out of curiosity.
Can't really imagine picking up another set after I've blown through these, when I already have Classics and AF1s hanging around, waiting to do pretty much the same job.
Plus, who wouldn't prefer to give their $$$ to Joey & Shrewgy rather than those ding-dongs at NHS?
Still... xcited to give them a go, because, um, skateboarding?
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Yeah possibly. I've been skating in about low 40s to low 50s Fahrenheit.
I notice my bushings change under 50.
why do people still use fahrenheit?
Americans continued to use Fahrenheit because people had the option to switch or no. This made the switch elective rather than forced and many individuals didn't want to learn new temperature or weight systems. Except for the United States, almost every country on the planet measures temperature in Celsius.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OltgDlwU6VQ/YNg9Bgujt1I/AAAAAAAABwE/C7WFf2PxxFINssBUTIB8CzGLNEJkn-mRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2000/fgfgfdg.webp)
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Yeah possibly. I've been skating in about low 40s to low 50s Fahrenheit.
I notice my bushings change under 50.
why do people still use fahrenheit?
Americans continued to use Fahrenheit because people had the option to switch or no. This made the switch elective rather than forced and many individuals didn't want to learn new temperature or weight systems. Except for the United States, almost every country on the planet measures temperature in Celsius.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OltgDlwU6VQ/YNg9Bgujt1I/AAAAAAAABwE/C7WFf2PxxFINssBUTIB8CzGLNEJkn-mRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2000/fgfgfdg.webp)
Who cares? I use both. When in Rome and all that... . In the Uk I weigh myself in Stone. Here in the US I weight myself in pounds... its really not that inconvenient. Thanks for the history lesson though, now go and get some grinders...
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What’s the deal with Britain using Whitworth bolts? I mean, the rest of the world either went metric or SAE. Why keep that archaic system around?
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Except for the United States, almost every country on the planet measures temperature in Celsius.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OltgDlwU6VQ/YNg9Bgujt1I/AAAAAAAABwE/C7WFf2PxxFINssBUTIB8CzGLNEJkn-mRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2000/fgfgfdg.webp)
You say "almost” with some degree of authority but then offer, as evidence, a map that shows the world divided into TWO parts: the US and pretty much EVERYBODY else.
Why not stake your claim boldly with a statement that backs up your evidence, like "ABSOLUTELY every other country on the planet measures in temperature in Celsius."
OR, alternately, provide evidence that is more in line with the statement you made and proffer up a map that shows those few other archaic hold-outs still clinging to a novel system that is out of step with the rest of the world.
In other words, if you're going to make such an argument, at least do a decent job of supporting your assertions.
Maybe I’m taking exception because of your intentionally inflammatory use of disparaging terminology, or maybe I’m bummed you wander into threads intended as safe spaces & deliberately pick fights.
Or maybe your inquiries in THIS thread, while having merit, are (as one would expect from a belligerent) poorly thought out/articulated.
I suspected it was but a matter of time before you showed your true colors, and it turns out you’ve proven me correct in this instance.
Who’d have thought it would be a discussion about the comparative merits of the metric system that would be the topic that revealed the cards in your hand.
Time to fold.
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I would back moving to metric/Celsius
12 inches to a foot, 3 feet to a yard, 1760 yards to a mile.
Wtf is that?
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I would back moving to metric/Celsius
12 inches to a foot, 3 feet to a yard, 1760 yards to a mile.
Wtf is that?
Hard agree here.
Both metric & celsius/centigrade make way more sense.
We could have the whole country “ported over” to the point that it becomes 2nd nature within a generation.
Wouldn’t even be very difficult.
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Honestly, I’m in Canada and we only use metric when the government forces us to ie. roads, height/weight/ anything bought at Home Depot….same as the US….
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(https://i.ibb.co/F0DvK67/F5366-D39-0-A3-B-459-E-B79-A-2-C087-FFBDBF0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F0DvK67)
Alright. Finally was able to take ‘em out and I gotta say I enjoy it. I did noticed they aren’t 55mm talk. I set them up next to some AF1s and they were about the same size.
I noticed the bushings felt a little stiffer than normal so I’m curious if they stiffen up even more.
Off the bat I noticed the geometry felt similar to an ace. That deeper turn but not as “twitchy”.
I also brought my old board that has forged hallows stage 11s with some old bones mediums in.
The 11s felt looser and more of an even turn.
The stage 4s felt stiffer but that deeper carve feel was nice and responsive.
I will say having that “ace” turn feel but that Indy grind feel is pretty solid. I’m always torn between that ace turn but the Indy grind feel beats out the turn. (It’s not like the stage 11s turned bad).
I think I’m going to give the bushings more time to break in and see if they eventually do loosen up before I throw in the ace bushings.
Not saying that the bushings feeling “stiffer” is good or bad. Same with the lower truck height. I think it kind of works with the truck but curious to see how it breaks in.
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Also to add, they get MUCH less wheel bite than an Ace Truck. Ace always feel like they want to touch wood (giggity) with little effort whereas the Stage 4 seem to just avoid it. I've gone from 1/4 to 1/8 rise also!
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I had also forgotten to mention that important aspect of these stage 4's, they wheelbite way less than Aces. With 1/8" risers underneath these, my wheels are never touching my board no matter how deep I turn, which is really nice. I skated these all weekend with the Ace bushings and even in the cold they are feeling amazing.
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I had also forgotten to mention that important aspect of these stage 4's, they wheelbite way less than Aces. With 1/8" risers underneath these, my wheels are never touching my board no matter how deep I turn, which is really nice. I skated these all weekend with the Ace bushings and even in the cold they are feeling amazing.
I did notice that. That’s kinda why I was saying I don’t know if the bushings being “firm” is good or bad.
Although if you want them loose loose ace bushings are trick? Just confirming before I start to tinker. 😂
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I had also forgotten to mention that important aspect of these stage 4's, they wheelbite way less than Aces. With 1/8" risers underneath these, my wheels are never touching my board no matter how deep I turn, which is really nice. I skated these all weekend with the Ace bushings and even in the cold they are feeling amazing.
I did notice that. That’s kinda why I was saying I don’t know if the bushings being “firm” is good or bad.
Although if you want them loose loose ace bushings are trick? Just confirming before I start to tinker. 😂
people have reported using ace bushings in the stage 4's and enjoying them.
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Yes, Ace standard/medium duro bushings will take these to the next level. If Indy was smart they'd go one step furthur to saying fuck you Ace, and steal their bushing formula lol. They should have those as stock, not those shitty red ones with no rebound.
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Looks like forged hollow on these. Orange bushings may indicate just a hanger swap to the 146.
(https://i.ibb.co/WpXzk9H/A9-BC1-B2-F-457-D-4-ACA-BF5-E-673208-D1-D28-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WpXzk9H)
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Looks like forged hollow on these. Orange bushings may indicate just a hanger swap to the 146.
(https://i.ibb.co/WpXzk9H/A9-BC1-B2-F-457-D-4-ACA-BF5-E-673208-D1-D28-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WpXzk9H)
good eye. given his style of skateboarding, i wouldnt expect him to like the stage 4's. seeing him ride them for so long now has been interesting.
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Yes, Ace standard/medium duro bushings will take these to the next level. If Indy was smart they'd go one step furthur to saying fuck you Ace, and steal their bushing formula lol. They should have those as stock, not those shitty red ones with no rebound.
I feel the opposite. The stock red ones almost have too much rebound. I really did not like the Ace bushings in the Stage 4s as they felt really unpredictable on center... so I went back to the stock red ones, which now are feeling a lot better as the trucks get more broken in. I'm heavy though and I really prefer trying to make stock bushings work. Love Ace stock bushings in Ace for instance.
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Has this happened to any one else?! I don’t mind the bushings rotating but I’m annoyed they printed “indy” on it so now it’s actually noticeable. The front truck has done a full 180.
They are starting to loosen up but I might have to ditch them for some ace bushings.
(https://i.ibb.co/C56YHWs/CE8-F89-B3-9-C21-47-FA-A4-DC-DE027-F67-B492.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C56YHWs) (https://i.ibb.co/vDYKBTj/780-F3-D36-54-E0-4978-A7-FB-2-DF367-AA60-AB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vDYKBTj) (https://i.ibb.co/KKJrQ4D/19-B33-C5-D-16-FB-4-D42-A8-EC-3748997-D1420.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KKJrQ4D)
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Has this happened to any one else?! I don’t mind the bushings rotating but I’m annoyed they printed “indy” on it so now it’s actually noticeable. The front truck has done a full 180.
They are starting to loosen up but I might have to ditch them for some ace bushings.
I have noticed sometimes when I mark the bushings that while I am wearing them in, especially if the trucks are fairly loose that one or both lots of bushings will turn, more often just the bottoms, but occasionally the tops too, which I put down to leaning certain ways doing the same tricks or movements over and over, putting pressure on the bushings a certain way.
One thing I have noticed to stop a lot of movement, clicking or anything is to wax each bit including the underside of the kingpin nut. Not the sort of thing I would be doing usually, but a certain squeaking that was not the pivot cup kept bugging me on one set of trucks so I thought I would see and lightly waxed the pivot nub of the hanger, the yoke where bushings touch in the hanger, the underside of the kingpin nut and it seemed to stop noise as well as make things just turn more smoothly as well.
Might seem like overkill but there is not wax melting all over the board and just the small amount used on those areas helped a whole lot more than nothing or just trying to ride the stiffness and noise out.
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Has this happened to any one else?! I don’t mind the bushings rotating but I’m annoyed they printed “indy” on it so now it’s actually noticeable. The front truck has done a full 180.
They are starting to loosen up but I might have to ditch them for some ace bushings.
(https://i.ibb.co/C56YHWs/CE8-F89-B3-9-C21-47-FA-A4-DC-DE027-F67-B492.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C56YHWs) (https://i.ibb.co/vDYKBTj/780-F3-D36-54-E0-4978-A7-FB-2-DF367-AA60-AB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vDYKBTj) (https://i.ibb.co/KKJrQ4D/19-B33-C5-D-16-FB-4-D42-A8-EC-3748997-D1420.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KKJrQ4D)
Yep, this happened to mine also. Swap to the Ace bushings. I know you want to keep them stock, I did too but once I put the Ace bushings in it unlocked them again.
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Has this happened to any one else?! I don’t mind the bushings rotating but I’m annoyed they printed “indy” on it so now it’s actually noticeable. The front truck has done a full 180.
They are starting to loosen up but I might have to ditch them for some ace bushings.
I have noticed sometimes when I mark the bushings that while I am wearing them in, especially if the trucks are fairly loose that one or both lots of bushings will turn, more often just the bottoms, but occasionally the tops too, which I put down to leaning certain ways doing the same tricks or movements over and over, putting pressure on the bushings a certain way.
One thing I have noticed to stop a lot of movement, clicking or anything is to wax each bit including the underside of the kingpin nut. Not the sort of thing I would be doing usually, but a certain squeaking that was not the pivot cup kept bugging me on one set of trucks so I thought I would see and lightly waxed the pivot nub of the hanger, the yoke where bushings touch in the hanger, the underside of the kingpin nut and it seemed to stop noise as well as make things just turn more smoothly as well.
Might seem like overkill but there is not wax melting all over the board and just the small amount used on those areas helped a whole lot more than nothing or just trying to ride the stiffness and noise out.
from my excessive tinkering, i have found that wax generally acts as a bandaid and once it breaks down whatever clicking or squeaking it was preventing will usually come back worse.
Nowadays I use a LIGHT dabbing of motor oil. As light as possible really. but it seems to hold up and last much better than wax.
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Has this happened to any one else?! I don’t mind the bushings rotating but I’m annoyed they printed “indy” on it so now it’s actually noticeable. The front truck has done a full 180.
They are starting to loosen up but I might have to ditch them for some ace bushings.
I have noticed sometimes when I mark the bushings that while I am wearing them in, especially if the trucks are fairly loose that one or both lots of bushings will turn, more often just the bottoms, but occasionally the tops too, which I put down to leaning certain ways doing the same tricks or movements over and over, putting pressure on the bushings a certain way.
One thing I have noticed to stop a lot of movement, clicking or anything is to wax each bit including the underside of the kingpin nut. Not the sort of thing I would be doing usually, but a certain squeaking that was not the pivot cup kept bugging me on one set of trucks so I thought I would see and lightly waxed the pivot nub of the hanger, the yoke where bushings touch in the hanger, the underside of the kingpin nut and it seemed to stop noise as well as make things just turn more smoothly as well.
Might seem like overkill but there is not wax melting all over the board and just the small amount used on those areas helped a whole lot more than nothing or just trying to ride the stiffness and noise out.
from my excessive tinkering, i have found that wax generally acts as a bandaid and once it breaks down whatever clicking or squeaking it was preventing will usually come back worse.
Nowadays I use a LIGHT dabbing of motor oil. As light as possible really. but it seems to hold up and last much better than wax.
petroleum based products are usually pretty bad for plastics and rubber over time.
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Has this happened to any one else?! I don’t mind the bushings rotating but I’m annoyed they printed “indy” on it so now it’s actually noticeable. The front truck has done a full 180.
They are starting to loosen up but I might have to ditch them for some ace bushings.
I have noticed sometimes when I mark the bushings that while I am wearing them in, especially if the trucks are fairly loose that one or both lots of bushings will turn, more often just the bottoms, but occasionally the tops too, which I put down to leaning certain ways doing the same tricks or movements over and over, putting pressure on the bushings a certain way.
One thing I have noticed to stop a lot of movement, clicking or anything is to wax each bit including the underside of the kingpin nut. Not the sort of thing I would be doing usually, but a certain squeaking that was not the pivot cup kept bugging me on one set of trucks so I thought I would see and lightly waxed the pivot nub of the hanger, the yoke where bushings touch in the hanger, the underside of the kingpin nut and it seemed to stop noise as well as make things just turn more smoothly as well.
Might seem like overkill but there is not wax melting all over the board and just the small amount used on those areas helped a whole lot more than nothing or just trying to ride the stiffness and noise out.
from my excessive tinkering, i have found that wax generally acts as a bandaid and once it breaks down whatever clicking or squeaking it was preventing will usually come back worse.
Nowadays I use a LIGHT dabbing of motor oil. As light as possible really. but it seems to hold up and last much better than wax.
petroleum based products are usually pretty bad for plastics and rubber over time.
interesting, please enlighten me. I've had a much better experience since i've used motor oil. Would def like to know any science behind what youre talking about.
isnt wax a petroleum product too though?
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i use this stuff on pivot cups
(http://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71McRhW566L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg)
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Has this happened to any one else?! I don’t mind the bushings rotating but I’m annoyed they printed “indy” on it so now it’s actually noticeable. The front truck has done a full 180.
They are starting to loosen up but I might have to ditch them for some ace bushings.
I have noticed sometimes when I mark the bushings that while I am wearing them in, especially if the trucks are fairly loose that one or both lots of bushings will turn, more often just the bottoms, but occasionally the tops too, which I put down to leaning certain ways doing the same tricks or movements over and over, putting pressure on the bushings a certain way.
One thing I have noticed to stop a lot of movement, clicking or anything is to wax each bit including the underside of the kingpin nut. Not the sort of thing I would be doing usually, but a certain squeaking that was not the pivot cup kept bugging me on one set of trucks so I thought I would see and lightly waxed the pivot nub of the hanger, the yoke where bushings touch in the hanger, the underside of the kingpin nut and it seemed to stop noise as well as make things just turn more smoothly as well.
Might seem like overkill but there is not wax melting all over the board and just the small amount used on those areas helped a whole lot more than nothing or just trying to ride the stiffness and noise out.
from my excessive tinkering, i have found that wax generally acts as a bandaid and once it breaks down whatever clicking or squeaking it was preventing will usually come back worse.
Nowadays I use a LIGHT dabbing of motor oil. As light as possible really. but it seems to hold up and last much better than wax.
petroleum based products are usually pretty bad for plastics and rubber over time.
interesting, please enlighten me. I've had a much better experience since i've used motor oil. Would def like to know any science behind what youre talking about.
isnt wax a petroleum product too though?
Paraffin wax is a petroleum product, but I imagine the fact that it is inert until it's burned means it will result in less damage than other petroleum products. My thoughts on this are that, while all this stuff is true and you should keep petroleum off of your bushings, it simply is not going to matter in the lifespan of a skateboard truck. It's the same reason I will never bother to take care of my skateboard bearings in the same way I painstakingly service the bearings on my high-end bicycle hubs.
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Has this happened to any one else?! I don’t mind the bushings rotating but I’m annoyed they printed “indy” on it so now it’s actually noticeable. The front truck has done a full 180.
They are starting to loosen up but I might have to ditch them for some ace bushings.
I have noticed sometimes when I mark the bushings that while I am wearing them in, especially if the trucks are fairly loose that one or both lots of bushings will turn, more often just the bottoms, but occasionally the tops too, which I put down to leaning certain ways doing the same tricks or movements over and over, putting pressure on the bushings a certain way.
One thing I have noticed to stop a lot of movement, clicking or anything is to wax each bit including the underside of the kingpin nut. Not the sort of thing I would be doing usually, but a certain squeaking that was not the pivot cup kept bugging me on one set of trucks so I thought I would see and lightly waxed the pivot nub of the hanger, the yoke where bushings touch in the hanger, the underside of the kingpin nut and it seemed to stop noise as well as make things just turn more smoothly as well.
Might seem like overkill but there is not wax melting all over the board and just the small amount used on those areas helped a whole lot more than nothing or just trying to ride the stiffness and noise out.
from my excessive tinkering, i have found that wax generally acts as a bandaid and once it breaks down whatever clicking or squeaking it was preventing will usually come back worse.
Nowadays I use a LIGHT dabbing of motor oil. As light as possible really. but it seems to hold up and last much better than wax.
Yeah I totally get where you are coming from with that, as well as what others are saying too regarding some products to use or not to use, for whatever reasons.
I guess for me in a shop situation where I don't want to have too many other products, having some lube - Singer sewing machine oil or speed cream, some degreaser / cleaner - WD40, some dry lube - graphite powder and just odds and ends of simple candle wax type of thing to cover all bases, I don't usually venture much past that in terms of other products.
Definitely the longevity of some things is not the main thought, more so when anyone (myself included) sets up a board or changes something over and something squeaks or clicks, at least that worked for there and then and I can deal with whatever comes tomorrow later, or for most things, whatever comes the next time I get the urge to take something apart or change something over again, otherwise once a board is set up for me, I often don't change anything on it until I am done with it so don't usually need to deal with squeaks or clicks as everything tends to work well after that.
I am still amazed at some of the little things I have tried and done in more recent years that I think would have helped had I tried that from way back in the day, but I guess we live and learn all these things, as well as having some trial and error to work out what is good and what is not so good with various fixes or changes to setups.
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(https://i.ibb.co/F0DvK67/F5366-D39-0-A3-B-459-E-B79-A-2-C087-FFBDBF0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F0DvK67)
Gnar’d for no other reason than the Otherness Barker deck.
Clearly, you are an individual of distinguished tastes & I celebrate you for it.
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(https://i.ibb.co/F0DvK67/F5366-D39-0-A3-B-459-E-B79-A-2-C087-FFBDBF0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F0DvK67)
Clearly, you are an individual of distinguished tastes & I celebrate you for it.
otherness is such an incredibly cool name
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(https://i.ibb.co/F0DvK67/F5366-D39-0-A3-B-459-E-B79-A-2-C087-FFBDBF0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F0DvK67)
Clearly, you are an individual of distinguished tastes & I celebrate you for it.
otherness is such an incredibly cool name
Agreed.
It somehow rings a bell deep inside me.
Gnar’d for no other reason than @funeral_tuxedo is one of the most visually evocative names on these bloards. Genuinely a favorite of mine.
Also, YOU clearly have unimpeachable tastes yourself, as clearly demonstrated by your likewise apreesh of Otherness.
Sooo…
Wait, what’s this thread about?
My stage IVs arrived via post, courtesy of @144p & the fine gents at 35th Ave. only just yesterday, so I too shall soon be sniffing out these thing’s merits.
No report is likely forthcoming: I’ll be busy smiling my bunz off breaking in a new set of aluminium.
Shalom.
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Explain to me please why so many posters here don't like the hollow forged Indys. I had a pair and they were ... just fine? Skated exactly like I expect from a Stage XI.
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Explain to me please why so many posters here don't like the hollow forged Indys. I had a pair and they were ... just fine? Skated exactly like I expect from a Stage XI.
I like em but they definitely have a harder, tinny sound from the baseplate that feels a lot different from the duller rebound of the cast baseplate. They are also lower and lighter, which is welcomed by me but if youre used to standards then that might be a problem.
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Explain to me please why so many posters here don't like the hollow forged Indys. I had a pair and they were ... just fine? Skated exactly like I expect from a Stage XI.
Theyre fine trucks, IMO you might as well spring for the titaniums if these suit you though, same specs just even lighter.
the forged baseplate is a point of contention. Height, weight, feel, and sound are the differentiating factors. They are lower, lighter, harder, and sound a bit sharper/tinnier than cast.
If you want a 53.5mm height truck they will suit you just fine.
I've been loving titanium hangers on cast baseplates for a while now. but thats just a preference thing.
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Explain to me please why so many posters here don't like the hollow forged Indys. I had a pair and they were ... just fine? Skated exactly like I expect from a Stage XI.
I have had like 4 pairs now in all 139 x2, 144 (titanium), 159s
I think it is very close to a perfect, solid, reliable truck. Never had any real issue with any of them, and I put them all through hell. Freezing Cold winters, Super Hot summers, and the crustiest of curbs.
I have had lots of pairs of standard indys before that, too many to count, first pair was in 98 or 99.
I agree with Ben De Gros when he says they do feel a tiny bit "tippy".
I feel like they are a bit "squirrley" when you go really fast and you have them loose. Unpredictable if they will wobble at times depending where my foot is.
I just think its fun to try other trucks, and I would say there are advantages and disadvantages to all of them. I can't say Ace are 1:1 better than Indy's at all. I would just say I find the way they turn a little more fun, and the way I have mine set up so far they seem to feel a little more stable at higher speeds. I have experienced the wheel bite big time which is big disadvantage. I dropped my wheel size down to 54mm and its gotten a lot more manageable. I also really like the height of 53mm for trucks.
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Explain to me please why so many posters here don't like the hollow forged Indys. I had a pair and they were ... just fine? Skated exactly like I expect from a Stage XI.
I think ‘just fine’ is exactly what Indy’s have been, for me. Good qc, last the longest, possibly the best compromise of all important characteristics: grind, pop, turn.
For me, because they are so well balanced, they don’t stick out in any one way, and that makes them less exciting.
I end up preferring aces turn (and the af-1 grind is pretty decent now that I’ve given them a chance), but indy has a better pop for me, than aces do.
I, drastically, prefer the pop I get from thunders, just more consistent. Maybe get 1 out of 10 the highest with Indy, but the rest are just more where I expect the board to be, with thunder. Feels right.
Venture lo’s have been the thing for so long I am just attached to them, and I am a sentimental person, in a way that I’ve never felt with independent. I also prefer the venture pop to Indy, whilst sacrificing turn and grinding.
So yeah, just fine. Doesn’t excite.
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Explain to me please why so many posters here don't like the hollow forged Indys. I had a pair and they were ... just fine? Skated exactly like I expect from a Stage XI.
I think ‘just fine’ is exactly what Indy’s have been, for me. Good qc, last the longest, possibly the best compromise of all important characteristics: grind, pop, turn.
For me, because they are so well balanced, they don’t stick out in any one way, and that makes them less exciting.
I end up preferring aces turn (and the af-1 grind is pretty decent now that I’ve given them a chance), but indy has a better pop for me, than aces do.
I, drastically, prefer the pop I get from thunders, just more consistent. Maybe get 1 out of 10 the highest with Indy, but the rest are just more where I expect the board to be, with thunder. Feels right.
Venture lo’s have been the thing for so long I am just attached to them, and I am a sentimental person, in a way that I’ve never felt with independent. I also prefer the venture pop to Indy, whilst sacrificing turn and grinding.
So yeah, just fine. Doesn’t excite.
This is a great summary.
If i just skated flatground, I'd probably ride thunders
If i just skated transition, (smller tighter stuff anyways) I'd probably ride ace
If i just did manuals, I'd probably ride venture
Indys just work everywhere, when other trucks tend to excel in a specific area.
Indys also have the best grind and are the most durable from my experience, which is a huge deciding factor. All around performance with the added benefit of having the best grind and lasting the longest?
Yes please.
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To be clear, I am not asking about Independent vs. other trucks. I've skated Indys for decades (although I am currently on some AF-1 44s), I know how an Indy skates. But I've skated Standards, Forged Hollows, even a pair of Titaniums, and all of them felt to me exactly like an Independent Stage XI truck. I am just unclear about what it is specifically about this form of Independent which gets people riled up.
I ask because I pointed out in the Sale thread that SoCal Skates has tons of Forged Hollow Independent Trucks for $25/pair and a bunch of people were like "ewww, no thanks!"
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We may just be sensitive…..
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To be clear, I am not asking about Independent vs. other trucks. I've skated Indys for decades (although I am currently on some AF-1 44s), I know how an Indy skates. But I've skated Standards, Forged Hollows, even a pair of Titaniums, and all of them felt to me exactly like an Independent Stage XI truck. I am just unclear about what it is specifically about this form of Independent which gets people riled up.
I ask because I pointed out in the Sale thread that SoCal Skates has tons of Forged Hollow Independent Trucks for $25/pair and a bunch of people were like "ewww, no thanks!"
- I don't like the feel of forged plates since they are harder. I don't think they slide worse or anything, but the feel when rolling is more rattly and kind of annoying. Maybe not a big deal for some, but I'm not into it.
- They shorten the nose/tail and lengthen the WB relative to cast, which I dislike.
- They're lower without any change to the KP angle and more prone to wheelbite. As someone who always goes back to a bigger wheel, it isn't worth it.
- The weight saving isn't enough for me to care. Or rather, I kind of prefer a heavier truck
In most cases forged cost more and I like them less, so why bother? And I get in the context above that they're super cheap, but at the end of the day I'd rather just pay full price and have exactly what I want.
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I always just had way more of the standards than anything else, I guess because that was what was available more often than not, as well as them being cheaper in general.
For me personally, I am not worried by the height or weight of them, previously on 139s, then 144s when they came out but now 149s as my usual go to, even though I have some of every size on boards, as well as every option now too, standard, hollow cast, forged hollow, ti axle, almost all well used and traded in or bought on completes from ebay or private sellers, etc.
I have never bought anything other than standards from new, come to think of it.
The hollow axle / kingpin definitely had a few more issues with threading / stripping out, as well as the forged baseplate being impossible to get a broken kingpin out of when I did have to try, so there is that too.
In reality, the forged baseplate is too low for most of my preferred truck to wheel pairings, so I put a thin riser under them, but standards are fine as is, nothing else needed.
Others I skate with are all over the forged baseplate, ti axle, or at the very least hollow axle options and try to have the lowest and lightest setup they can, so for my overall group, I think more of those guys do go the forged hollow option, but many ride larger setups too, so I can see why lighter trucks on big boards work for them.
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I have never bought anything other than standards from new, come to think of it.
Yeah, I've mostly skated Standards because that's usually the cheapest and most readily available, but the Forged Hollows I've had seemed to me completely fine, not appreciably different than the Standards.
Anyway, thanks for your answers. I already believe that I am less sensitive to this stuff than a lot of you and I guess this validates it.
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To be clear, I am not asking about Independent vs. other trucks. I've skated Indys for decades (although I am currently on some AF-1 44s), I know how an Indy skates. But I've skated Standards, Forged Hollows, even a pair of Titaniums, and all of them felt to me exactly like an Independent Stage XI truck. I am just unclear about what it is specifically about this form of Independent which gets people riled up.
I ask because I pointed out in the Sale thread that SoCal Skates has tons of Forged Hollow Independent Trucks for $25/pair and a bunch of people were like "ewww, no thanks!"
I was one of the no thanks. That said, I ride forged hollows for everything(except one board with 215s). Only reason I was bummed was they were too small or mids. The only real issue I have with forged over standard is the baseplate for nose and tail slides. There’s less material on the pivot on the forged so you get way more wheel drag and need to wax the side of curbs/ledges unless they’re vertical. I hate having wax on my wheels since I’d normally go skate street then head home and hit my ramp. So waxed wheels was never fun. Aside from that one thing, I love them.
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The standards are too high and too heavy for me so I skate nothing but forged hollows. Took me a while to figure that out tho.
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The standards are too high and too heavy for me so I skate nothing but forged hollows. Took me a while to figure that out tho.
What size wheels do you like w/ forged hollows?
I feel like I can’t go much further than 54, but preferably 53, if I don’t want to get pitched from the wheelbite.
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Forged plates killed my pop, I got used to the tinny sound and different vibrational feel, but it felt like I had to try twice as hard for everything and I can’t be having that at my age. So for me having a quicker pop did not mean getting a bigger pop.
That was going from hollow standards to
Hollow forged.
I’m really still surprised I felt a difference, I keep trying them because of the stock orange bushings are so nice and I have a pair of 55 classic that are at about 51and the riding surface is perfect.
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The standards are too high and too heavy for me so I skate nothing but forged hollows. Took me a while to figure that out tho.
What size wheels do you like w/ forged hollows?
I feel like I can’t go much further than 54, but preferably 53, if I don’t want to get pitched from the wheelbite.
I ran 56mm classics on forged plates with no risers for a while. I don't ride super loose though.
Forged plates killed my pop, I got used to the tinny sound and different vibrational feel, but it felt like I had to try twice as hard for everything and I can’t be having that at my age. So for me having a quicker pop did not mean getting a bigger pop.
That was going from hollow standards to
Hollow forged.
I’m really still surprised I felt a difference, I keep trying them because of the stock orange bushings are so nice and I have a pair of 55 classic that are at about 51and the riding surface is perfect.
My last bout with madness was between forged/cast plates.
I def prefer how the cast plates feel, but I need to run them with smaller wheels 53-54 to be around my preferred height for pop feel.
I can see myself going back to forged if I want to go back to bigger wheels though. 56 mm classic is as big as I would go though
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idk why but for some reason I really like the forged plates on indy's but not other trucks. I think because Indy's standards are really heavy so i dont mind toning them down a bit, where the other companies are so light i want the heavier version.
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The standards are too high and too heavy for me so I skate nothing but forged hollows. Took me a while to figure that out tho.
What size wheels do you like w/ forged hollows?
I feel like I can’t go much further than 54, but preferably 53, if I don’t want to get pitched from the wheelbite.
I ran 56mm classics on forged plates with no risers for a while. I don't ride super loose though.
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Forged plates killed my pop, I got used to the tinny sound and different vibrational feel, but it felt like I had to try twice as hard for everything and I can’t be having that at my age. So for me having a quicker pop did not mean getting a bigger pop.
That was going from hollow standards to
Hollow forged.
I’m really still surprised I felt a difference, I keep trying them because of the stock orange bushings are so nice and I have a pair of 55 classic that are at about 51and the riding surface is perfect.
My last bout with madness was between forged/cast plates.
I def prefer how the cast plates feel, but I need to run them with smaller wheels 53-54 to be around my preferred height for pop feel.
I can see myself going back to forged if I want to go back to bigger wheels though. 56 mm classic is as big as I would go though
So you think I should have ran bigger wheels with the forged? I was thinking lower truck smaller wheels.
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it depends too what size you are riding, even though they are the same height. i ride 58mm on my 159s and its fine. no risers. I tightened them a tiny bit more as well, they are a tiny bit tighter than i'd like but they feel a lot more stable like this. I still get a decent turn because they have a wide turning radius.
on my 144s I found 54mm a tiny bit big. so I went down to like a 50mm wheel. It feels way better on this. so I think for 149s that kinda makes sense to not go over 54mm.
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To be clear, I am not asking about Independent vs. other trucks. I've skated Indys for decades (although I am currently on some AF-1 44s), I know how an Indy skates. But I've skated Standards, Forged Hollows, even a pair of Titaniums, and all of them felt to me exactly like an Independent Stage XI truck. I am just unclear about what it is specifically about this form of Independent which gets people riled up.
I ask because I pointed out in the Sale thread that SoCal Skates has tons of Forged Hollow Independent Trucks for $25/pair and a bunch of people were like "ewww, no thanks!"
Ah. I’m a moron. I thought you meant the other thing.
Soy, machó, schralp, mbrims kinda said it already, and my reheated version is that I’m sensitive, do t like the sound feel, prefer the weight for grinds, something doesn’t ‘feel right’ (which is an amazing assertion on my part as I’m old, in bad shape, look terrible, and am infrequently trying to skate/fling shit I’ve never really had all that great. And out of all of that, I’ll blame the forged plates.
I’d prefer a lower indy. I’m going to try and rehab some stage 10 139s I found. The forged just bugs me. The heavier truck just plows thru grinds (generally a shitty 50 50 for me).
Where the hollow stuff starts to pay off is when I’m outside of my range. I couldn’t skate 149s. The coolest local skater of the last 15 years was way early on that wave, and I really wanted to get down, but just could not. Possibly a forged hollow or titanium truck would have worked.
As an aside, my favorite stage 11 truck were 159s. Look sick, turn great, loved the pop. Probably should have fucked around more with that, but hate the way the bigger boards look. Also should/could have messed with those in hollow.
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Sorry if this info is already somewhere..
Stage 4s gonna skate pretty similar to indy standards? Same height and wheelbase, but a little bit of a deeper turn and a few grams heavier?
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Sorry if this info is already somewhere..
Stage 4s gonna skate pretty similar to indy standards? Same height and wheelbase, but a little bit of a deeper turn and a few grams heavier?
Users are reporting that the stage 4s skate more like an ace than a stage 11 indy.
Completely different turning characteristics vs the stage 11
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Sorry if this info is already somewhere..
Stage 4s gonna skate pretty similar to indy standards? Same height and wheelbase, but a little bit of a deeper turn and a few grams heavier?
Users are reporting that the stage 4s skate more like an ace than a stage 11 indy.
Completely different turning characteristics vs the stage 11
Yeah, regardless of feeling about how similarly (or not) that they skate, objectively they push the WB in from a standard and are lower than the advertised 55mm height.
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for the Stage 4, is all the difference found in the hangars? are the bushings different sizes (other than marking/label)? or are there changes to the baseplates as well?
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thank you guys!
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for the Stage 4, is all the difference found in the hangars? are the bushings different sizes (other than marking/label)? or are there changes to the baseplates as well?
Nope, not just a baseplate thing. The bushings are both taller, and the baseplate has a steeper kingpin angle (that could be taller or it could just be the angle).
I guess some pics have surfaced of people rocking the hangars on forged plates, but that will range the geo. When I get home later I'll measure the KP angles and bushing heights to help give the full picture.
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Bushings def taller, both top and bottom.
Overall truck height seems the same to me at 55mm. Def higher than my Ace AF1s and Classics.
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The standards are too high and too heavy for me so I skate nothing but forged hollows. Took me a while to figure that out tho.
What size wheels do you like w/ forged hollows?
I feel like I can’t go much further than 54, but preferably 53, if I don’t want to get pitched from the wheelbite.
52
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The standards are too high and too heavy for me so I skate nothing but forged hollows. Took me a while to figure that out tho.
What size wheels do you like w/ forged hollows?
I feel like I can’t go much further than 54, but preferably 53, if I don’t want to get pitched from the wheelbite.
52
Any wheelbite issues on 52mm wheels on Indy's Forged Hollow (not mid) trucks?
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Currently running the x97’s in 52mm on 149 Ti’s, not even a nibble of wheelbite.
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So you think I should have ran bigger wheels with the forged? I was thinking lower truck smaller wheels.
sorry, missed this.
Not necessarily. i was just saying that you COULD get away with 56mm classics on forged plates if you didnt run your trucks super loose.
The point about different wheel sizes/plate combos i was trying to make was more about my preferred pop feel and overall setup height.
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I have 54s on 139 forged hollows and the wheelbite is not an issue. It happens if I land shitty, but I am not conscious of it otherwise. Also I ride classics so maybe the rounded edges buy me a little extra room before my wheels hit.
I got way more wheelbite on Thunder 147s and 52s.
Also I don't know if it's just me but I like a slightly bigger wheel on narrower trucks. I feel like it locks me in nicely.
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The standards are too high and too heavy for me so I skate nothing but forged hollows. Took me a while to figure that out tho.
What size wheels do you like w/ forged hollows?
I feel like I can’t go much further than 54, but preferably 53, if I don’t want to get pitched from the wheelbite.
52
Any wheelbite issues on 52mm wheels on Indy's Forged Hollow (not mid) trucks?
Not many. I ride nuts flush on stock bushings. The only time I will get pitched is occasionally on a pop shuv. Everything else works quite well.
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for the Stage 4, is all the difference found in the hangars? are the bushings different sizes (other than marking/label)? or are there changes to the baseplates as well?
bushings on stage 4’s are definitely taller than standard orange Indy bushings. I just got some ace standard bushings to put in these Indy stage 4 trucks. the red stage 4 Indy bushings are the same exact height as ace standard bushings, and the ace bushings are much better.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/Cpibm3dpoke/
they put out this cute little post to clearly show the difference between stage 4 / stage 11. to me they look just like Aces
So basically it went like this: Ace started making basically their version of stage 4s, indy was like, "huh, i guess people must like these. Let's just make stage 4's again then!" and here we are.
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(https://i.imgur.com/tH63ntbl.jpg)
Stage 4 hangers on stage 11 IKP baseplates with Ace AF1 pivot cups and Ace bushings. Blue loctite on the Kreper pin, I’m not fucking around.
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Finally had clear enough weather to get a session on these Stage 4s. These are my first impressions.
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/938266106701942824/1084223245395435570/PXL_20230311_211428537.jpg)
I wasn't expecting an extremely carvy truck, but these are it. It's significant enough to make it feel different than the Stage 11s (in terms of turn). The inevitable Ace AF1 turn comparison is that for me they feel extremely similar, but the taller height of the Stage 4s means you can get a deeper turn before wheelbite. The board still feels stable and controllable though.
These felt too carvy (had the kingpin nut flush with the kingpin!) so I did tighten them a bit, and it was really easy to get them to how I'm used to without compressing the bushing so much that it dies.
How carvy? Top wheelbite is my usual spot (Indy Stage 11), and the bottom wheelbite isn't something I've experienced before until these trucks.
(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/938266106701942824/1084223245097635961/PXL_20230311_211402709.jpg)
Bushings firmed up fairly quickly so I did loosen the nut a little bit but not by a whole lot; just a quarter turn.
Grind felt exactly the same as Stage 11s. Honestly the kingpin clearance felt fine to me on both metal coping and curbs, and I couldn't find a notable difference between this and Stage 11 KP clearance. Still need to hit a concrete ledge though.
Weight seemed fine but I'm used to the various Indy weights, but anyone that hates the weight of Indys aren't going to enjoy this truck at all especially if they find the Stage 11s to be too heavy. These 146s (8.375") weigh similar to Indy 159s.
Again, this is just my first impressions. Don't take this as a final review.
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*Inevitable Slap super-franken-truck*
Stage 4 hangers on stage 11 IKP baseplates with Ace AF1 pivot cups and Ace bushings. Blue loctite on the Kreper pin, I’m not fucking around.
I am not about to hop all these hoops but I want to step on these or something as crazy as this.
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*Inevitable Slap super-franken-truck*
Stage 4 hangers on stage 11 IKP baseplates with Ace AF1 pivot cups and Ace bushings. Blue loctite on the Kreper pin, I’m not fucking around.
I am not about to hop all these hoops but I want to step on these or something as crazy as this.
Nah this ain’t even that bad in my history of truck schizophrenia. Hanger and baseplate are the same brand and the geometry actually makes sense and works. The only complicated part of this equation was me trying to not make a mess with the loctite but my clumsy ass definitely got it all over the bottom washer and bushing but it hasn’t seemed to affect those components.
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*Inevitable Slap super-franken-truck*
Stage 4 hangers on stage 11 IKP baseplates with Ace AF1 pivot cups and Ace bushings. Blue loctite on the Kreper pin, I’m not fucking around.
I am not about to hop all these hoops but I want to step on these or something as crazy as this.
Nah this ain’t even that bad in my history of truck schizophrenia. Hanger and baseplate are the same brand and the geometry actually makes sense and works. The only complicated part of this equation was me trying to not make a mess with the loctite but my clumsy ass definitely got it all over the bottom washer and bushing but it hasn’t seemed to affect those components.
Oh I remember my first month in here someone had a crazy mix match of things.
It’s why I’ve bought Khiro bushings and magnesium Ace baseplates but because Khiro isn’t around and Ace doesn’t make mag plates anymore I don’t want to skate them.
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I don’t know if this is the correct thread, but it would seem like the place ask, since some of you are clearly comfortable with frankentrucking.
I’m trying to swap plates/kingpins on my 139 lows with cast, and my 159 forged hollows. Best of both worlds I’d think. Cast hollow for 159s and forged plate on the lows, would take them even lower.
Problem is I’m not very good at removing kingpins. How do I do it without fucking them up?
I’ve gotten as far as pushing the low kingpins out, but it did cost me their nuts.
If I want to skate tonight I’ll need at least a couple nuts holding one of the sets together.
(https://i.ibb.co/d2wfMyY/B0-D045-AE-D8-D5-4-E42-B2-F5-ADBBDEF5-F24-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d2wfMyY)
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I don’t know if this is the correct thread, but it would seem like the place ask, since some of you are clearly comfortable with frankentrucking.
I’m trying to swap plates/kingpins on my 139 lows with cast, and my 159 forged hollows. Best of both worlds I’d think. Cast hollow for 159s and forged plate on the lows, would take them even lower.
Problem is I’m not very good at removing kingpins. How do I do it without fucking them up?
I’ve gotten as far as pushing the low kingpins out, but it did cost me their nuts.
If I want to skate tonight I’ll need at least a couple nuts holding one of the sets together.
(https://i.ibb.co/d2wfMyY/B0-D045-AE-D8-D5-4-E42-B2-F5-ADBBDEF5-F24-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d2wfMyY)
I have no good technique for removing kingpins. I've only ever done it twice, it took a lot of force and effort and the baseplates didn't hold the new pins well, effectively rendering them useless.
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I don’t know if this is the correct thread, but it would seem like the place ask, since some of you are clearly comfortable with frankentrucking.
I’m trying to swap plates/kingpins on my 139 lows with cast, and my 159 forged hollows. Best of both worlds I’d think. Cast hollow for 159s and forged plate on the lows, would take them even lower.
Problem is I’m not very good at removing kingpins. How do I do it without fucking them up?
I’ve gotten as far as pushing the low kingpins out, but it did cost me their nuts.
If I want to skate tonight I’ll need at least a couple nuts holding one of the sets together.
(https://i.ibb.co/d2wfMyY/B0-D045-AE-D8-D5-4-E42-B2-F5-ADBBDEF5-F24-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d2wfMyY)
When I've removed the kingpins from my trucks, I put them on my bench vise, with the clamps open so that I can hammer the kingpin between them. I think I clamped the trucks in the vise once and it marred the plate, so the next time I set it on top of the vise and clamped the plate with a trigger clamp to keep it from popping off.
But yeah, basically you need something hard, preferably metal (a vise is also an anvil), with a gap in the middle through which you can drive the kingpin.
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Parking block
Place pin base over rebar hole
Wood or brick to hold the plate
Smack that pin with a hammer
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I don’t know if this is the correct thread, but it would seem like the place ask, since some of you are clearly comfortable with frankentrucking.
I’m trying to swap plates/kingpins on my 139 lows with cast, and my 159 forged hollows. Best of both worlds I’d think. Cast hollow for 159s and forged plate on the lows, would take them even lower.
Problem is I’m not very good at removing kingpins. How do I do it without fucking them up?
I’ve gotten as far as pushing the low kingpins out, but it did cost me their nuts.
If I want to skate tonight I’ll need at least a couple nuts holding one of the sets together.
So to check where you are up to, you are trying to take the lower kingpins out of one set of trucks and put them in the other?
Cast plates are not that difficult to remove kingpins from, but forged plates are a real pain in the ass and almost every forged plate that has had a broken or problematic kingpin has ended up pretty much getting destroyed in the process of removal, both from my own efforts and others when they have tried to take out theirs.
A much better solution is set up the hangers on the baseplates as you want them, then if the kingpin is too tall, just angle grind the tops off the kingpins if you need them lower on the forged plates.
As for getting kingpins back in to trucks, I have often filed or angle grinded down the "teeth" just a bit which makes it way easier to get them in with a hammer / mallet and block.
If you have one of those press type machines, it is very easy and others have just pushed kingpins in or out using them, which people have shown on here in whatever thread too.
That is not to say that it cannot be done and give you exactly what you want, but just a hammer and belting it as hard as you can often ends in things not working at all or breaking baseplates.
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I don’t know if this is the correct thread, but it would seem like the place ask, since some of you are clearly comfortable with frankentrucking.
I’m trying to swap plates/kingpins on my 139 lows with cast, and my 159 forged hollows. Best of both worlds I’d think. Cast hollow for 159s and forged plate on the lows, would take them even lower.
Problem is I’m not very good at removing kingpins. How do I do it without fucking them up?
I’ve gotten as far as pushing the low kingpins out, but it did cost me their nuts.
If I want to skate tonight I’ll need at least a couple nuts holding one of the sets together.
So to check where you are up to, you are trying to take the lower kingpins out of one set of trucks and put them in the other?
Cast plates are not that difficult to remove kingpins from, but forged plates are a real pain in the ass and almost every forged plate that has had a broken or problematic kingpin has ended up pretty much getting destroyed in the process of removal, both from my own efforts and others when they have tried to take out theirs.
A much better solution is set up the hangers on the baseplates as you want them, then if the kingpin is too tall, just angle grind the tops off the kingpins if you need them lower on the forged plates.
As for getting kingpins back in to trucks, I have often filed or angle grinded down the "teeth" just a bit which makes it way easier to get them in with a hammer / mallet and block.
If you have one of those press type machines, it is very easy and others have just pushed kingpins in or out using them, which people have shown on here in whatever thread too.
That is not to say that it cannot be done and give you exactly what you want, but just a hammer and belting it as hard as you can often ends in things not working at all or breaking baseplates.
I was hoping you’d chime in :)
You pretty much know what I’m trying.
But the cast plates in the picture has already had the low kingpins pushed out, and need a longer kingpin to fit my standard size bushings. It’s really just to make my forged hollows into cast hollows. I plan on trying to sell the lows, or setup a 00’s board for shits and giggles with them.
Next up is getting the kingpins out of the forged plates, and then getting all 4 back in the correct trucks.
I screwed the plates to my workbench with woodscrews, and the went to town with a big ass pipe wrench.
My searching online said that using a shop press would be fast and easy, but I don’t have access to one atm. Search also said a powered chisel might do the trick, for both dislodging them and reseating them.
Wish me luck.
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are the hangers interchangeable between all stage 11s? or do only titantium + hollow fit forged baseplate, standard only fits Cast plate due to different geomtery?
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are the hangers interchangeable between all stage 11s? or do only titantium + hollow fit forged baseplate, standard only fits Cast plate due to different geomtery?
All stage 11s can swap baseplates. The forged baseplate is 1.5mm thinner, all from the boardside. Geometry is the same.
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are the hangers interchangeable between all stage 11s? or do only titantium + hollow fit forged baseplate, standard only fits Cast plate due to different geomtery?
All stage 11s can swap baseplates. The forged baseplate is 1.5mm thinner, all from the boardside. Geometry is the same.
Yes, they are all interchangeable. However, there is a slight difference in geo between forged and cast, but it's all in the baseplate. Forged plates make your trucks sit ever so slightly further apart, extending the wheelbase. But yeah, hangers are all the same.
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I don’t know if this is the correct thread, but it would seem like the place ask, since some of you are clearly comfortable with frankentrucking.
I’m trying to swap plates/kingpins on my 139 lows with cast, and my 159 forged hollows. Best of both worlds I’d think. Cast hollow for 159s and forged plate on the lows, would take them even lower.
Problem is I’m not very good at removing kingpins. How do I do it without fucking them up?
I’ve gotten as far as pushing the low kingpins out, but it did cost me their nuts.
If I want to skate tonight I’ll need at least a couple nuts holding one of the sets together.
So to check where you are up to, you are trying to take the lower kingpins out of one set of trucks and put them in the other?
Cast plates are not that difficult to remove kingpins from, but forged plates are a real pain in the ass and almost every forged plate that has had a broken or problematic kingpin has ended up pretty much getting destroyed in the process of removal, both from my own efforts and others when they have tried to take out theirs.
A much better solution is set up the hangers on the baseplates as you want them, then if the kingpin is too tall, just angle grind the tops off the kingpins if you need them lower on the forged plates.
As for getting kingpins back in to trucks, I have often filed or angle grinded down the "teeth" just a bit which makes it way easier to get them in with a hammer / mallet and block.
If you have one of those press type machines, it is very easy and others have just pushed kingpins in or out using them, which people have shown on here in whatever thread too.
That is not to say that it cannot be done and give you exactly what you want, but just a hammer and belting it as hard as you can often ends in things not working at all or breaking baseplates.
I was hoping you’d chime in :)
You pretty much know what I’m trying.
But the cast plates in the picture has already had the low kingpins pushed out, and need a longer kingpin to fit my standard size bushings. It’s really just to make my forged hollows into cast hollows. I plan on trying to sell the lows, or setup a 00’s board for shits and giggles with them.
Next up is getting the kingpins out of the forged plates, and then getting all 4 back in the correct trucks.
I screwed the plates to my workbench with woodscrews, and the went to town with a big ass pipe wrench.
My searching online said that using a shop press would be fast and easy, but I don’t have access to one atm. Search also said a powered chisel might do the trick, for both dislodging them and reseating them.
Wish me luck.
"GOOD LUCK!!!!"
I feel like it would be cheaper / easier in the long run to just buy two regular kingpins and put them in the cast plates and see if the other trucks can get away with that, otherwise I would still be taking those other kingpins down about two mm or so to make them the same height as the low kingpins.
Using lower top bushings can also help with regular hangers on low kingpins, which is how I set up my boards.
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Anybody know the bushing thicknesses/measurements for Indy Stage 7s?
I searched to the end of the internet and got nothing.
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Anybody know the bushing thicknesses/measurements for Indy Stage 7s?
I searched to the end of the internet and got nothing.
Bushing height measurement info
On some of the trucks I have, they are about the same as current bushings, the tops may be a hair taller.
They were the conical shaped bushings too, not the cylinder, unless the set I have had them swapped out.
I think I have a single new one here somewhere that didn't look like it had been set up, so that might be the best bet for the size, rather than trying to check with well used bushings which would have compressed.
Roughly this, because some bushings seem to have compressed over the years from use or just having the truck tightened down a bit more than others:
Stage 7 and 8 truck bushings (maybe Stage 5 and 6 too)
11 to 13 mm top conical
13 to 14 mm bottom conical
Stage 9 truck bushings (Stage 10 same with cylinder bottoms)
10 to 11 mm top conical
12 to 13 mm bottom conical
Stage 4 reissues
12.5 mm top conical
14-15 mm bottom cylinder
Then from the bushings thread:
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=112631.msg3874036#msg3874036
Indy stock 90a and aftermarket (same in both cylinder and conical) 78a, 88a, 90a, 92a, 94a, 96a
Total 23.5 mm
Top 10.5 mm
Bottom 13 mm *
Indy 215 truck bushings:
Total 24.5 mm
Top 11.5 mm
Bottom 13 mm
Then Indy low head bushings 92a
Total 21 mm
Top 8 mm
Bottom 13 mm
* Some of the Indy aftermarket bushings, especially the black cylinder were taller 14 mm bottoms
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Anybody know the bushing thicknesses/measurements for Indy Stage 7s?
I searched to the end of the internet and got nothing.
Also to note, almost all of the trucks I have from those days are either too stiff in the bushings, or the bushings feel a little too tall, so even getting the kingpin nut off a brand new set, they were a pain to try to get back on and kingpin clearance was almost zero.
Putting more normal or current aftermarket bushings in, either conical or cylinder versions, make them a bit more reasonable, but I used to cut the tops down a bit just to have the nut down lower to give a little more clearance and a better turn as well.
Of course all that is subjective - down to the individual as to how you prefer to ride your trucks, but with these low head bushings, the trucks from that era work a lot better for me.
I don't have any of the new 215s or the new Stage 4 trucks to compare them to, but the tops are taller in those too, from what people have said.
The older Stage 10 version of the 215s have the conical bushings in the set I have, with the Stage 11 pre change 215s having cylinder, but they appear the same as the normal stock bushings in other size trucks from that period.
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Anybody know the bushing thicknesses/measurements for Indy Stage 7s?
I searched to the end of the internet and got nothing.
Also to note, almost all of the trucks I have from those days are either too stiff in the bushings, or the bushings feel a little too tall, so even getting the kingpin nut off a brand new set, they were a pain to try to get back on and kingpin clearance was almost zero.
Putting more normal or current aftermarket bushings in, either conical or cylinder versions, make them a bit more reasonable, but I used to cut the tops down a bit just to have the nut down lower to give a little more clearance and a better turn as well.
Of course all that is subjective - down to the individual as to how you prefer to ride your trucks, but with these low head bushings, the trucks from that era work a lot better for me.
I don't have any of the new 215s or the new Stage 4 trucks to compare them to, but the tops are taller in those too, from what people have said.
The older Stage 10 version of the 215s have the conical bushings in the set I have, with the Stage 11 pre change 215s having cylinder, but they appear the same as the normal stock bushings in other size trucks from that period.
Ben Degros tried to ride current conical bushings in a pair of stage 7s and ran into an issue with how they felt heavy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvZkzgOpOQ4
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Anybody know the bushing thicknesses/measurements for Indy Stage 7s?
I searched to the end of the internet and got nothing.
Also to note, almost all of the trucks I have from those days are either too stiff in the bushings, or the bushings feel a little too tall, so even getting the kingpin nut off a brand new set, they were a pain to try to get back on and kingpin clearance was almost zero.
Putting more normal or current aftermarket bushings in, either conical or cylinder versions, make them a bit more reasonable, but I used to cut the tops down a bit just to have the nut down lower to give a little more clearance and a better turn as well.
Of course all that is subjective - down to the individual as to how you prefer to ride your trucks, but with these low head bushings, the trucks from that era work a lot better for me.
I don't have any of the new 215s or the new Stage 4 trucks to compare them to, but the tops are taller in those too, from what people have said.
The older Stage 10 version of the 215s have the conical bushings in the set I have, with the Stage 11 pre change 215s having cylinder, but they appear the same as the normal stock bushings in other size trucks from that period.
Ben Degros tried to ride current conical bushings in a pair of stage 7s and ran into an issue with how they felt heavy
That's cool to see some in action and I must have missed that video when it came out, but I have barely watched half of his videos, looking at my history.
The bushings on most of my other well used older trucks are way more compressed than the new ones, but it is interesting that the trucks would feel a lot more like Ventures when the hanger is stood upright more as well.
I would say that any older truck is going to have some issues or feel weird after skating the current model of any brand, including Ventures, so after changing bushings over just to look at it, they seem like they would work well enough, kingpin nut hang up aside.
Thanks for reminding me of that video too.
Edit:
The Stage 8 truck video came up after that - yes another one I hadn't seen, so I watch that as well.
Interesting to see that video too, same issues with the old bushings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZVg30dQKF8
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Thanks for the info.
@funeral_tuxedo It actually makes a lot of sense that the boardside bushings on a skated Stage 7 would be pretty compressed if you tried to measure them today.
@Mbrimson88 Yup, you're correct: Stage 7 original bushing were conical top and bottom.
As far as the streetside bushing, I tried adding a flat Bones washer to get the effect of a slightly taller bushing there.
It didnt really change the geometry. AFAICT only the boardside bushing actually changes geometry, whereas, streetside bushing and boardside bushings together change the response.
So I guess getting them both right will give the geo and response that Indy intended the Stage 7 to have.
I emailed NHS to see if they have original Stage 7 bushing specs, but no response so far. I'll update if they reply.
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Anyone else with Stage 4s find the pivot cups to be a hell of a lot more squeaky than other trucks, including Stage 11s? Maybe it's just me or I have the kingpin nut down a little too much, but it seems like these trucks squeak way more than others.
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Anyone else with Stage 4s find the pivot cups to be a hell of a lot more squeaky than other trucks, including Stage 11s? Maybe it's just me or I have the kingpin nut down a little too much, but it seems like these trucks squeak way more than others.
I agree and they seems exceptionally hard with the already hardened up broken in bushings. I changed them with a riptide pivot cup and it is a night and day difference on how it turns as well as no more loud squeaking. The firmed up bushings don’t feel as firm as well. I skate aces and Indy’s and have currently been on some AF1’s 60’s that are nearly axled. I was still partial to my Ace’s up until the pivot cup change. I imagine the ace ones will work too as a cheaper option of similar quality. I love my AF1’s, but the sound and feel of the Indy grind is still hard to compete with. Nevertheless I will still continue riding both brands, but these 151 stage 4’s with the upgraded pivot cup sure are nice and the extra height gives you a slightly deeper turn.
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Anyone else with Stage 4s find the pivot cups to be a hell of a lot more squeaky than other trucks, including Stage 11s? Maybe it's just me or I have the kingpin nut down a little too much, but it seems like these trucks squeak way more than others.
I agree and they seems exceptionally hard with the already hardened up broken in bushings. I changed them with a riptide pivot cup and it is a night and day difference on how it turns as well as no more loud squeaking. The firmed up bushings don’t feel as firm as well. I skate aces and Indy’s and have currently been on some AF1’s 60’s that are nearly axled. I was still partial to my Ace’s up until the pivot cup change. I imagine the ace ones will work too as a cheaper option of similar quality. I love my AF1’s, but the sound and feel of the Indy grind is still hard to compete with. Nevertheless I will still continue riding both brands, but these 151 stage 4’s with the upgraded pivot cup sure are nice and the extra height gives you a slightly deeper turn.
I replaced the stock ones with Ace AF1 pivot cups today and my experience is the same
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I like all the stock Indy pivot cups now they’re insanely hard and indestructible and don’t seem to hinder performance as long as you keep ’em greased up. My trick as of late is to use a stick of beeswax lip balm on the pivot nub of the hanger and mush it into the pivot cup and then add another layer and assemble everything. I also rub it on the bushings, too.
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I read the specs about stage 4, so 136 is actually a smaller 139 ? Or does the size stay the same ? (Like thunder which is called 147 actually 139)
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I read the specs about stage 4, so 136 is actually a smaller 139 ? Or does the size stay the same ? (Like thunder which is called 147 actually 139)
136 has an 8” axle like the 139.
146: 8.375”
149: 8.5”
151: 8.625”
159: 8.75”
166: 9.0”
169: 9.125”
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Reynolds had a story skating stage 4's where he swapped to black hard bushings and grinded down the kingpin.
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Reynolds had a story skating stage 4's where he swapped to black hard bushings and grinded down the kingpin.
It’s a hard post.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cp6PZKaP6P8/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
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Reynolds had a story skating stage 4's where he swapped to black hard bushings and grinded down the kingpin.
Interesting. I’m finally getting to ride my stage 4’s today, but I usually rock red Doh doh’s in Ace trucks which are 95a. So (longwinded as to say) I am curious about the black bushing swap, and will pick up a set incase the stock reds are too soft for me.
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Thanks for the info.
@funeral_tuxedo It actually makes a lot of sense that the boardside bushings on a skated Stage 7 would be pretty compressed if you tried to measure them today.
@Mbrimson88 Yup, you're correct: Stage 7 original bushing were conical top and bottom.
As far as the streetside bushing, I tried adding a flat Bones washer to get the effect of a slightly taller bushing there.
It didnt really change the geometry. AFAICT only the boardside bushing actually changes geometry, whereas, streetside bushing and boardside bushings together change the response.
So I guess getting them both right will give the geo and response that Indy intended the Stage 7 to have.
I emailed NHS to see if they have original Stage 7 bushing specs, but no response so far. I'll update if they reply.
I found another box of old trucks, with a few of what are still brand new sets, some with quite taller bushings, so updated the previous post back up the page some with these changes:
Roughly this, because some bushings seem to have compressed over the years from use or just having the truck tightened down a bit more than others:
Stage 7 and 8 truck bushings (maybe Stage 5 and 6 too)
11 to 13 mm top conical
13 to 14 mm bottom conical
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Recently switched from bones medium to bones hard bushings on my stage 11s. Had to go no washers, too tight otherwise and right now I've got the kingpin nut only just on there - there are no threads coming through the top. Feels so much better though, I feel faster with these harder bushings
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At 165lbs I find every increase in hardness with Indy stock bushings is 1 less thread showing. Not a hard rule, but yellow to blue and blue to black did that for me. Ultimately I'd rather ride blues slightly past flush than black flush so the kingpin nut catches on less. Cranking the yellows and grinding the kingpin is too much precompression on the bushings
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someone has an idea when stage 4 will be available in europe ?
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someone has an idea when stage 4 will be available in europe ?
[/quote
I’ve seen them listed in the UK already so surely not must be soon
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someone has an idea when stage 4 will be available in europe ?
They've been in europe since skateshop day. freedomskateshop.at (http://freedomskateshop.at) has them
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(https://i.imgur.com/s3kUAYr.jpg)Got my 151s set up with some Supercush 88s. Swapped them from the start so I’ve have no idea how the stock reds roll.
Love the pop on these. These things cut quick, grind nice. Hyped so far.
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Thanks for the info.
@funeral_tuxedo It actually makes a lot of sense that the boardside bushings on a skated Stage 7 would be pretty compressed if you tried to measure them today.
@Mbrimson88 Yup, you're correct: Stage 7 original bushing were conical top and bottom.
As far as the streetside bushing, I tried adding a flat Bones washer to get the effect of a slightly taller bushing there.
It didnt really change the geometry. AFAICT only the boardside bushing actually changes geometry, whereas, streetside bushing and boardside bushings together change the response.
So I guess getting them both right will give the geo and response that Indy intended the Stage 7 to have.
I emailed NHS to see if they have original Stage 7 bushing specs, but no response so far. I'll update if they reply.
I found another box of old trucks, with a few of what are still brand new sets, some with quite taller bushings, so updated the previous post back up the page some with these changes:
Roughly this, because some bushings seem to have compressed over the years from use or just having the truck tightened down a bit more than others:
Stage 7 and 8 truck bushings (maybe Stage 5 and 6 too)
11 to 13 mm top conical
13 to 14 mm bottom conical
Beauty! Thanks.
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is there a difference in kingpin length between forged and cast baseplates?
Been swapping between the two recently out of madness, and i swear my trucks feel looser on the forged plates with the nut adjusted to show the same amount of kingpin as it did on the cast.
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is there a difference in kingpin length between forged and cast baseplates?
Been swapping between the two recently out of madness, and i swear my trucks feel looser on the forged plates with the nut adjusted to show the same amount of kingpin as it did on the cast.
Don't own a set, just guessing: kingpins are probably the same, but since the metal is thinner on the forged more of KP is exposed and it appears longer.
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On my 2 pairs of plates they're the same within 1/16"
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Please accept my apologies in advance if this is redundant info, but I'm sharing here for posterity's sake in case such imagery hasn't already been propagated in this here thread.
I pulled the the bushings from a new (as in: not yet compressed) Stage IVs and tossed 'em into the ol' digi-cal.
Here's what we got...
(https://i.ibb.co/1XzFNCp/Stage-IV-Barrel.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n1PxyXV)
(https://i.ibb.co/Db7CtXL/Stage-IV-Cone.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j5LMTKH)
Make with this info what you will, and again, my sorries if this is old news, rewarmed.
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is there a difference in kingpin length between forged and cast baseplates?
Been swapping between the two recently out of madness, and i swear my trucks feel looser on the forged plates with the nut adjusted to show the same amount of kingpin as it did on the cast.
could just be the bushing got mixed up? that'll do it, even turning them a little can make a big diff.
for sure the pivots are closer to the kingpin on stage 4's, idk about height. i would think the stage 11 baseplates would make them more stable, if anything.
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Please accept my apologies in advance if this is redundant info, but I'm sharing here for posterity's sake in case such imagery hasn't already been propagated in this here thread.
I pulled the the bushings from a new (as in: not yet compressed) Stage IVs and tossed 'em into the ol' digi-cal.
Here's what we got...
Make with this info what you will, and again, my sorries if this is old news, rewarmed.
Very much appreciated.
Funny thing is that bottom one sitting on the bench already looks somewhat compressed too.
You could go with rounding it up to 15 mm bottom and 12.5 mm top which would make sense.
Total 27.5 mm all up is mighty tall bushings.
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Please accept my apologies in advance if this is redundant info, but I'm sharing here for posterity's sake in case such imagery hasn't already been propagated in this here thread.
I pulled the the bushings from a new (as in: not yet compressed) Stage IVs and tossed 'em into the ol' digi-cal.
Here's what we got...
(https://i.ibb.co/1XzFNCp/Stage-IV-Barrel.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n1PxyXV)
(https://i.ibb.co/Db7CtXL/Stage-IV-Cone.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j5LMTKH)
Make with this info what you will, and again, my sorries if this is old news, rewarmed.
Hell yea! thanks man, will update the first post now.
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Being larger bushings, would Ace/Krux bushings fit?
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Being larger bushings, would Ace/Krux bushings fit?
People have reported using Ace bushings and enjoying them in the stage 4s
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shout out to dead ringer for the tip on dying white bushings whatever color you want. dyed some white venture bushings dark blue and they look sick, making me want to buy up some ace bushings in different sizes and duros and try out some different colors.
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shout out to dead ringer for the tip on dying white bushings whatever color you want. dyed some white venture bushings dark blue and they look sick, making me want to buy up some ace bushings in different sizes and duros and try out some different colors.
@Deadringer
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Would the stage 4 hanger work with forged baseplates?
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will it work? yeah.
it's gonna fuck with the geometry/turn/stability. people might like that though, i can't see any benefit except shedding a few grams.
you can put just about any hanger on every baseplate. should you, is the question i ask myself.
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shout out to dead ringer for the tip on dying white bushings whatever color you want. dyed some white venture bushings dark blue and they look sick, making me want to buy up some ace bushings in different sizes and duros and try out some different colors.
Your welcome bro, it's surprisingly easy isn't it??
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will it work? yeah.
it's gonna fuck with the geometry/turn/stability. people might like that though, i can't see any benefit except shedding a few grams.
you can put just about any hanger on every baseplate. should you, is the question i ask myself.
The benefit would be a lower truck, no? 55mm is too tall for me. I still skate stage 10s because of the height. I'm aware any hanger will fit onto any base plate. I wondering if the truck will turn well.
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It won't turn as well as the stage 4 which really negates the whole point.
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will it work? yeah.
it's gonna fuck with the geometry/turn/stability. people might like that though, i can't see any benefit except shedding a few grams.
you can put just about any hanger on every baseplate. should you, is the question i ask myself.
For what it’s worth, I don’t think anyone who’s physically measured these has put them at a true 55mm. Everyone seems to be saying they’re closer in height to the forged Indy’s (myself included).
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Just recently setup some 146 Stage 4's. I swapped the bushings for Ace Stock Mediums, and can honestly say it's one of the best turning trucks I have used. I ride without the bottom bushing washers on all my trucks, so it's set up the exact same aside from my Stage 11's running stock orange bushings. Having said that, I really do love my 149 hollows and don't know if this truck is going to work long term. I am going to ride these for a month or so to see if I enjoy it.
(https://i.ibb.co/W6P1jFH/2057642-A-24-E6-4-A99-9679-F1-F53-A15-C9-E7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/W6P1jFH)
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Stage 4 riders,
Are you still riding them?
are you still in love with them?
has the novelty worn off?
Is the lack of grind clearance as big of a deal as people thought?
Did these make a meaningful impact to your skateboarding?
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Stage 4 riders,
Are you still riding them?
are you still in love with them?
has the novelty worn off?
Is the lack of grind clearance as big of a deal as people thought?
Did these make a meaningful impact to your skateboarding?
I love them. The turn is amazing, super deep like an Ace classic but a little more stable due to the bushings firming up (they have relaxed a bit, though). Also like the pop feel of a heavier, higher truck with the axle pushed in...it feels light as in "easy to pop" without being light as in "these trucks are light and if I scoop too hard, my board will flip half way on this dumb pop shuv".
I am a little annoyed with myself for getting 151s and not 146s but otherwise I don't foresee myself skating anything else.
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I'm not, trying to sell my 146's that are barely used. Turning is so good but they are pretty heavy, it's like I'm riding an 8.75 board+trucks. I tried to skate them on the IKP stage 11 plates and there was a lot of wiggle room in the pivot cavity no matter which pivot cups I tried and as a result of everything moving around a lot, it was like the dreaded AF1 washer clicking but even worse. I can't skate them with the stage 4 baseplates, there is zero kingpin clearance and I know I'm gonna start hanging up a lot once they get ground down. Just sticking with my AF1 44's on some stage 7 baseplates with OG Krux kingpins. It has been working fine and the turning is still nuts.
-
Stage 4 riders,
Are you still riding them?
are you still in love with them?
has the novelty worn off?
Is the lack of grind clearance as big of a deal as people thought?
Did these make a meaningful impact to your skateboarding?
I had a solid session on mine, but I switched out to black Indy bushings.
I’m going to at least ride them a few more times to determine if I’ll stick with them, but so far so great.
-
Stage 4 riders,
Are you still riding them?
are you still in love with them?
has the novelty worn off?
Is the lack of grind clearance as big of a deal as people thought?
Did these make a meaningful impact to your skateboarding?
I'm still in love with mine. I've switched out the bottom stock red bushings to my red indy after market ones. I'd still like it to be a bit firmer. I don't tiktak for anything now. I'd been doing this weird thing with my front suvs where I'd land them supper shitty. That's totally gone now. That's almost worth it on it's own. I haven't done fakie hardflips in years but for some reason now that's all I want to do on these. It just feels right. I even started skating the quarters again.
-
Stage 4 riders,
Are you still riding them?
are you still in love with them?
has the novelty worn off?
Is the lack of grind clearance as big of a deal as people thought?
Did these make a meaningful impact to your skateboarding?
still skating them, I’ve had them in my board since they came out in late February. they are very fun trucks to skate, but I always go back to stage 11 forges hollow. gonna keep a pair of radial 55mm spits on these stage 4’s, and just go back and forth between those and stage 11 with 52mm classic spits.
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still skating them, would keep skating them if they brought out hollows, titaniums. wouldn't mind some stage 9 type weight relief to the baseplate either. yeah, i know stage 9 baseplates cracked a lot.
-
Stage 4 riders,
Are you still riding them?
are you still in love with them?
has the novelty worn off?
Is the lack of grind clearance as big of a deal as people thought?
Did these make a meaningful impact to your skateboarding?
I like them, but they aren't so entirely different from Stage 11s to me that I could choose either or.
The deeper carve is definitely nice, but I set my trucks medium loose (if that makes any sense) so I don't really need the extra carve the trucks give.
I think the kingpin clearance is overstated, Indy never had the best kingpin clearance and I found no difference in clearance between Stage 4 and 11 when doing Smith grinds. Visually, the clearance between both is very similar.
The weight doesn't bother me at all, but honestly I'm used to heavy set ups.
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Stage 4 riders,
Are you still riding them?
are you still in love with them?
has the novelty worn off?
Is the lack of grind clearance as big of a deal as people thought?
Did these make a meaningful impact to your skateboarding?
I like them, but they aren't so entirely different from Stage 11s to me that I could choose either or.
I don't find that my Ace AF-1s are really so different from Stage 11s, so I can see how Stage IVs would be the same way. The XI were supposed to be a blend of Stage III/IV and Stage VIII/IX, which I think they accomplish pretty perfectly, hence their popularity and staying power.
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Thanks for the replies stage 4'ers.
My gear impulsivity isnt nearly as bad as it used to be, so idk if i'll ever try these, would def ask to step on someones board if i saw them in the wild though.
I know they're gonna be too heavy for my regular setup, and i dont really NEED to replace the AF1's on my bigger cruiser with these.
Maybe I really am growing up?
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
Riptide pivot cups help
I clean my pivot cups and bushings and use the lightest possible layer of motor oil.
Though i've been told that motor oil can be bad for these parts, i've never had an issue.
basically just clean and lubricate.
A dry lubricant would probably work best.
The issue with was is that it breaks down quickly and makes the squeaking return 10X.
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i noticed Ace trucks come with some sort of Goo on the tip of the hanger where it fits into the pivot cup. it seemed a little more yellowy / clear than motor oil. some sort of litium grease or something maybe
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
Wax does it for me. The squeaking goes away for a long time. It comes back sooner with oils etc., so I've found wax the best solution here. Plus, oil can drip out of the cup and dirty up the trucks.
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Expand Quote
Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
Wax does it for me. The squeaking goes away for a long time. It comes back sooner with oils etc., so I've found wax the best solution here. Plus, oil can drip out of the cup and dirty up the trucks.
you are using WAY too much if its dripping or spilling at all. I'm talking like, lightly dab a paper towel or qtip in motor oil, and lightly brush the surfaces you wish to lubricate. should like slightly shiny when finished. not wet.
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
Wax does it for me. The squeaking goes away for a long time. It comes back sooner with oils etc., so I've found wax the best solution here. Plus, oil can drip out of the cup and dirty up the trucks.
you are using WAY too much if its dripping or spilling at all. I'm talking like, lightly dab a paper towel or qtip in motor oil, and lightly brush the surfaces you wish to lubricate. should like slightly shiny when finished. not wet.
Yeah, when I've tried to stop the squeaking, all I do is dab the tiniest, thinnest layer of lithium grease into the cup and on all the metal-on-metal parts.
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
Wax does it for me. The squeaking goes away for a long time. It comes back sooner with oils etc., so I've found wax the best solution here. Plus, oil can drip out of the cup and dirty up the trucks.
you are using WAY too much if its dripping or spilling at all. I'm talking like, lightly dab a paper towel or qtip in motor oil, and lightly brush the surfaces you wish to lubricate. should like slightly shiny when finished. not wet.
Yeah, when I've tried to stop the squeaking, all I do is dab the tiniest, thinnest layer of lithium grease into the cup and on all the metal-on-metal parts.
just looked it up because i was curious, but apparently lithium grease isnt great for urethane either. (same with motor oil apparently, which is what i use)
google suggests using silicone based greases.
who knew?
I'm about to turn into the biggest gear dork in the world with my separate lubes for various parts of my setup lol.
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
I’ve had luck with putting a few soap shavings/flakes in the pivot cup, and then just mash the hanger nub in there and reassemble. YMMV and so forth :)
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
Wax does it for me. The squeaking goes away for a long time. It comes back sooner with oils etc., so I've found wax the best solution here. Plus, oil can drip out of the cup and dirty up the trucks.
you are using WAY too much if its dripping or spilling at all. I'm talking like, lightly dab a paper towel or qtip in motor oil, and lightly brush the surfaces you wish to lubricate. should like slightly shiny when finished. not wet.
Yeah, when I've tried to stop the squeaking, all I do is dab the tiniest, thinnest layer of lithium grease into the cup and on all the metal-on-metal parts.
just looked it up because i was curious, but apparently lithium grease isnt great for urethane either. (same with motor oil apparently, which is what i use)
google suggests using silicone based greases.
who knew?
I'm about to turn into the biggest gear dork in the world with my separate lubes for various parts of my setup lol.
I use silicon grease. Works perfectly. But I didn't check whether it is detrimental to the ureathane in any way. At least so far I didn't notice anything. Before silicone grease I tried graphite powder. Was a total mess. Not recommended.
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
Wax does it for me. The squeaking goes away for a long time. It comes back sooner with oils etc., so I've found wax the best solution here. Plus, oil can drip out of the cup and dirty up the trucks.
you are using WAY too much if its dripping or spilling at all. I'm talking like, lightly dab a paper towel or qtip in motor oil, and lightly brush the surfaces you wish to lubricate. should like slightly shiny when finished. not wet.
Yeah, when I've tried to stop the squeaking, all I do is dab the tiniest, thinnest layer of lithium grease into the cup and on all the metal-on-metal parts.
just looked it up because i was curious, but apparently lithium grease isnt great for urethane either. (same with motor oil apparently, which is what i use)
google suggests using silicone based greases.
who knew?
I'm about to turn into the biggest gear dork in the world with my separate lubes for various parts of my setup lol.
I use silicon grease. Works perfectly. But I didn't check whether it is detrimental to the ureathane in any way. At least so far I didn't notice anything. Before silicone grease I tried graphite powder. Was a total mess. Not recommended.
google says waterproof silicone grease shouldnt damage urethane
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I second using soap, rub it over the pivot. Or silicone grease, which I have lying around as I use it on my bike.
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I reckon just good ol' olive oil would be a safe bet. It's natural.
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I reckon just good ol' olive oil would be a safe bet. It's natural.
i would be surprised if it held up very well over time, but i've been wrong before.
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
I tend to replace the stock pivot cups with the Ace AF1 aftermarket pivot cups
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Longest lasting, cheapest, least mess method I'm currently at is beeswax lip balm on all points of contact. Anytime I mess with my trucks I clean off with rubbing alcohol and repeat. Squeak stays away during the in-between period. Haven't tried the motor oil or lithium grease method yet, though.
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For me scraping some wax into the cup works every time.
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Thank you all for your contributions. I've always been able to get the job done with wax but it can be a struggle to have the squeaking fully gone. Silicone grease seems like a good idea and if I get to that point aftermarket pivot cups too.
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Does it get rid of the creak of Bones in Thunders?
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Does it get rid of the creak of Bones in Thunders?
Bones bushings usually have noise coming from the rubbing of the hard plastic ends on the metal washers.
Might not always be the case, but someone was having issues with them this week and I waxed over all surfaces including washers which stopped all noise completely for their Bones bushings.
There was usually the low creak each time, which was the bushing head and washer, then often a louder click, which was usually the washer and the nut.
That was what was going on when I just did the bushing tops first, which stopped the creak, then the top of the washer as well which stopped the click.
Not always going to fix everything but at least working out what bit makes what noise helped to figure out what was going on there too.
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Historical question about 156s...
What years were they around for, and what was their actual axle width?
-
Historical question about 156s...
What years were they around for, and what was their actual axle width?
This was the info from somewhere I had saved and the link is now broken, possibly not quite as accurate in timeline, but everything else seems to be about right from other info I gathered as well.
Stage 7 and 8 from 1993 to about 2003 they had the "6" ending, not the "9" endings, and the number was the mm hanger width, as per some I have here, which are pretty much 146, 156 and 166 in width, a little shorter than the current 149, 159 and 169s.
Stage I - 0riginal release date 7/78
77mm
88mm
109mm
121mm
131mm superwide
151mm fw (fucking wide)
169mm mfw (mother fucking wide)
Stage II - original realease date 5/79
151mm fw
169mm mfw
77mm was dropped but other stage ones still available
rollerskate plates released
Stage III - original release date 10/83
99mm streetstyle
131mm superwide
159mm fw
169mm mfw
215mm (big ten inch)
Stage I 88 and 121 still available
Stage IV - original release date 3/86
159 fw
169 mfw
215 big ten inch
Stage V (anodized) - original release date 10/86
149 (new size)
159 fw
169 mfw
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
stage VI - original release date 11/91
149
159
169
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage VII - original release date 2/93
136 (new size)
146
156
166
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage VIII - original release date 9/98
126 (new size)
136
146
156
166
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage IX - original release date 2/03
129
139
149
159
169
stage I 109's and stage IV 215's still available
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What does FW and MFW mean?
"fucking wide" and "massively fucking wide"? :v
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What does FW and MFW mean?
"fucking wide" and "massively mother fucking wide"? :v
For realsies, though. :o
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Expand Quote
Historical question about 156s...
What years were they around for, and what was their actual axle width?
This was the info from somewhere I had saved and the link is now broken, possibly not quite as accurate in timeline, but everything else seems to be about right from other info I gathered as well.
Stage 7 and 8 from 1993 to about 2003 they had the "6" ending, not the "9" endings, and the number was the mm hanger width, as per some I have here, which are pretty much 146, 156 and 166 in width, a little shorter than the current 149, 159 and 169s.
Stage I - 0riginal release date 7/78
77mm
88mm
109mm
121mm
131mm superwide
151mm fw (fucking wide)
169mm mfw (mother fucking wide)
Stage II - original realease date 5/79
151mm fw
169mm mfw
77mm was dropped but other stage ones still available
rollerskate plates released
Stage III - original release date 10/83
99mm streetstyle
131mm superwide
159mm fw
169mm mfw
215mm (big ten inch)
Stage I 88 and 121 still available
Stage IV - original release date 3/86
159 fw
169 mfw
215 big ten inch
Stage V (anodized) - original release date 10/86
149 (new size)
159 fw
169 mfw
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
stage VI - original release date 11/91
149
159
169
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage VII - original release date 2/93
136 (new size)
146
156
166
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage VIII - original release date 9/98
126 (new size)
136
146
156
166
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage IX - original release date 2/03
129
139
149
159
169
stage I 109's and stage IV 215's still available
This is awesome. Thank you.
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What does FW and MFW mean?
"fucking wide" and "massively mother fucking wide"? :v
Yep. They weren't afraid to go hard back then.
See the first line / stage trucks.
Stage I - 0riginal release date 7/78
77mm
88mm
109mm
121mm
131mm superwide
151mm fw (fucking wide)
169mm mfw (mother fucking wide)
Considering boards back then were barely 8" in those small wooden rectangle cruiser shapes, having something even a bit wider was considered crazy stuff.
Funny how things evolved, devolved and evolved again through the 80s with 10" wide boards, then 90s with back down some to the 00s with very narrow boards again, now back up to 10, 11 and whatever width anyone wants really.
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Funny how things evolved, devolved and evolved again through the 80s with 10" wide boards, then 90s with back down some to the 00s with very narrow boards again, now back up to 10, 11 and whatever width anyone wants really.
For real. Feels like there's more setup diversity than there's ever been.
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What does FW and MFW mean?
"fucking wide" and "massively mother fucking wide"? :v
Yep. They weren't afraid to go hard back then.
See the first line / stage trucks.
Stage I - 0riginal release date 7/78
77mm
88mm
109mm
121mm
131mm superwide
151mm fw (fucking wide)
169mm mfw (mother fucking wide)
Considering boards back then were barely 8" in those small wooden rectangle cruiser shapes, having something even a bit wider was considered crazy stuff.
Funny how things evolved, devolved and evolved again through the 80s with 10" wide boards, then 90s with back down some to the 00s with very narrow boards again, now back up to 10, 11 and whatever width anyone wants really.
Oops, I missed that part of your post lol
I'm glad we have a good size variety nowadays
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Stage 4 riders,
Are you still riding them?
are you still in love with them?
has the novelty worn off?
Is the lack of grind clearance as big of a deal as people thought?
Did these make a meaningful impact to your skateboarding?
I stopped skating them because of my truck madness. They were great but I ended up buying AF1 55's and then dealing with lean on one truck (swapped bushings and figured out it had to have been the baseplate). Currently I'm riding an AF1 55 hanger on some old Indy Stage 11 139 Standard baseplates. Kept the Ace bushings on, they feel great....for now lol.
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Ok so my Indy Titaniums did this:
(https://i.imgur.com/AXe6JNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DBmOzyP.jpg)
Will this be warrantied if the trucks are more than 4 months old or whatever I'm seeing on the NHS website? I'm lucky I noticed before bailing.
Edit: I'm just going to contact the skate shop first
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Ok so my Indy Titaniums did this:
(https://i.imgur.com/AXe6JNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DBmOzyP.jpg)
Will this be warrantied if the trucks are more than 4 months old or whatever I'm seeing on the NHS website? I'm lucky I noticed before bailing.
Edit: I'm just going to contact the skate shop first
Lmao a titanium axel bent??
Count your days indy. I don't want any of you shit talking ACE ever again.
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Lmao a titanium axel bent??
Count your days indy. I don't want any of you shit talking ACE ever again.
lol. axles bend, selling your 1st run of trucks with axles bent from the factory and then claiming it was camber or some shit, ok Joey!
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Historical question about 156s...
What years were they around for, and what was their actual axle width?
This was the info from somewhere I had saved and the link is now broken, possibly not quite as accurate in timeline, but everything else seems to be about right from other info I gathered as well.
Stage 7 and 8 from 1993 to about 2003 they had the "6" ending, not the "9" endings, and the number was the mm hanger width, as per some I have here, which are pretty much 146, 156 and 166 in width, a little shorter than the current 149, 159 and 169s.
Stage I - 0riginal release date 7/78
77mm
88mm
109mm
121mm
131mm superwide
151mm fw (fucking wide)
169mm mfw (mother fucking wide)
Stage II - original realease date 5/79
151mm fw
169mm mfw
77mm was dropped but other stage ones still available
rollerskate plates released
Stage III - original release date 10/83
99mm streetstyle
131mm superwide
159mm fw
169mm mfw
215mm (big ten inch)
Stage I 88 and 121 still available
Stage IV - original release date 3/86
159 fw
169 mfw
215 big ten inch
Stage V (anodized) - original release date 10/86
149 (new size)
159 fw
169 mfw
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
stage VI - original release date 11/91
149
159
169
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage VII - original release date 2/93
136 (new size)
146
156
166
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage VIII - original release date 9/98
126 (new size)
136
146
156
166
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
Stage IX - original release date 2/03
129
139
149
159
169
stage I 109's and stage IV 215's still available
(https://knowtechie.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/galaxy-brain-meme.jpg)
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Ok so my Indy Titaniums did this:
(https://i.imgur.com/AXe6JNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DBmOzyP.jpg)
Will this be warrantied if the trucks are more than 4 months old or whatever I'm seeing on the NHS website? I'm lucky I noticed before bailing.
Edit: I'm just going to contact the skate shop first
Lmao a titanium axel bent??
Count your days indy. I don't want any of you shit talking ACE ever again.
This is the typical Indy ti axle issue, maybe just before the thing breaks off entirely, as per all the other people who have had Indy ti axles break.
As to ti axles in general, I have seen almost every brand of truck with ti axles in pieces or bent. I even have a set of old Indy, old Thunder and seen a set of Ventures not too long ago with slightly bent ti axles, so it does happen, although no where near like this pic.
The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
And re warranty, yes talk to the shop first, as they (hopefully) can help you and go from there.
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Been saying this for awhile since I'm a metallurgist expert from Google searches ;), Ti axles are technically weaker than a solid normal chromoly axle, as are hollow chromoly axles. It's better to be a kingpin clearance weenie than a weight weenie.
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Been saying this for awhile since I'm a metallurgist expert from Google searches ;), Ti axles are technically weaker than a solid normal chromoly axle, as are hollow chromoly axles. It's better to be a kingpin clearance weenie than a weight weenie.
PLEASE elaborate or share a link that can substantiate this claim
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It would take a thicker Ti axle to be as strong as a regular CroMo. That whole "strength to weight" ratio description can be confusing. Part of the marketing, gotta hype it up. Hollow CroMo axles aren't stronger, either. Just Google something like "titanium weaker than chromoly" and you'll find what you're looking for. Same with YouTube. Ti has been tried in the bmx world as well, most will comment in forums and whatnot, how it wasn't worth the cost or hassle it caused with various parts.
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I had always read that hollow chromoly can be stronger since the internal portion of the axle is heat treated as well.
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It would take a thicker Ti axle to be as strong as a regular CroMo. That whole "strength to weight" ratio description can be confusing. Part of the marketing, gotta hype it up. Hollow CroMo axles aren't stronger, either. Just Google something like "titanium weaker than chromoly" and you'll find what you're looking for. Same with YouTube. Ti has been tried in the bmx world as well, most will comment in forums and whatnot, how it wasn't worth the cost or hassle it caused with various parts.
It seems like the excessive hardness and thus the lack of give of the titanium is the issue. Like it will take an impact and not budge at all over and over again until one day it does. The CroMo in the meanwhile has a slight give and in the long run it will withstand forces better. If it does get compromised structurally it will just bend instead of fail like my truck.
I liked the 149 Ti because it represented such a good balance between heft and weight and the threads on the axle never got mangled. I might just start getting into the good old 139 Standard again as the compromise. Or a wider truck with a hollow axle if they're not immediately debunked in this thread.
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It would take a thicker Ti axle to be as strong as a regular CroMo. That whole "strength to weight" ratio description can be confusing. Part of the marketing, gotta hype it up. Hollow CroMo axles aren't stronger, either. Just Google something like "titanium weaker than chromoly" and you'll find what you're looking for. Same with YouTube. Ti has been tried in the bmx world as well, most will comment in forums and whatnot, how it wasn't worth the cost or hassle it caused with various parts.
Interesting, thanks man.
I guess i see what you're saying.
Even though the Ti axel would have to be larger to be stronger than cast, it would still be lighter, thus having a better strength to weight ratio. But in reality the axel is always the same size so the Ti is technically weaker.
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The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
Today I realized I have a bent axle on my Hollows.
It's a bummer because they have a lot of life left.
It's not as bad as these TI's the other guy postet. But enough to kill my wheels. So you say you hammered axles back to straight and it worked out? Did you skate them on your regular board too or just for cruisers?
I was thinking about that but wasn't so sure..
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Ok so my Indy Titaniums did this:
(https://i.imgur.com/AXe6JNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DBmOzyP.jpg)
Will this be warrantied if the trucks are more than 4 months old or whatever I'm seeing on the NHS website? I'm lucky I noticed before bailing.
Edit: I'm just going to contact the skate shop first
I broke two TI axles and both Trucks got warrantied. The second one was more than 4 months old. They gave me a new set for each break. So the chance is good.
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The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
It's a bummer because they have a lot of life left.
It's not as bad as these TI's the other guy postet. But enough to kill my wheels. So you say you hammered axles back to straight and it worked out? Did you skate them on your regular board too or just for cruisers?
I was thinking about that but wasn't so sure..
I've bent axles back by putting the hanger in a vice, wrapping the end of the axle in duct-tape so i don't damage the threads and then fitting a deep socket with a 12" socket extension over the axle and tweaking on it until it's good, or at least 'good enough for government work'
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The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
It's a bummer because they have a lot of life left.
It's not as bad as these TI's the other guy postet. But enough to kill my wheels. So you say you hammered axles back to straight and it worked out? Did you skate them on your regular board too or just for cruisers?
I was thinking about that but wasn't so sure..
I've bent axles back by putting the hanger in a vice, wrapping the end of the axle in duct-tape so i don't damage the threads and then fitting a deep socket with a 12" socket extension over the axle and tweaking on it until it's good, or at least 'good enough for government work'
That's a plan. Thx!
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The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
It's a bummer because they have a lot of life left.
It's not as bad as these TI's the other guy postet. But enough to kill my wheels. So you say you hammered axles back to straight and it worked out? Did you skate them on your regular board too or just for cruisers?
I was thinking about that but wasn't so sure..
I have still skated them with no issues after hammering them back to straight, from being bent, but I know other people will not touch them again for fear of them bending again / even more. Hammered back standard / solid axles and hollow without issue and they have been good since but ti axles never seem to hammer back once bent, no matter how much I pound them.
Here is something I posted a while ago, which is easy enough to see. This is just one way, but it worked. The old full metal hammer has been a good one, but I have a solid metal mallet which has more weight and works even better.
It is just getting the position right and keeping a nut on so it does not wreck the axle threads.
* I would usually hold it in place, but to film I had to just sit it there.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CYc40EopBQk/
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Boss skate the stage 4s…predictably makes me want some
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I’m really loving my 149 Mids, I can see myself happily skating another. I skated some hollow 144s early pandemic and I thought they were abysmal (to be fair they’re the first and only 8.25 & hollow trucks I’ve skated)
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I’m really loving my 149 Mids, I can see myself happily skating another. I skated some hollow 144s early pandemic and I thought they were abysmal (to be fair they’re the first and only 8.25 & hollow trucks I’ve skated)
Why'd you think they sucked? I've been very happy with my 144 titaniums, tbh.
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I broke two TI axles and both Trucks got warrantied. The second one was more than 4 months old. They gave me a new set for each break. So the chance is good.
I'm getting a single new truck from the shop, which is acceptable for me right now. I mean it's not super nice, but it's reasonable as it completely eliminates my problem. The long term reliability of titanium trucks concerns me much more.
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Ok so my Indy Titaniums did this:
(https://i.imgur.com/AXe6JNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DBmOzyP.jpg)
Will this be warrantied if the trucks are more than 4 months old or whatever I'm seeing on the NHS website? I'm lucky I noticed before bailing.
Edit: I'm just going to contact the skate shop first
i tell my customers to do the warranty claim through the shop rather than on their own. That way i act as a "filter": "yeah it's going to work no problem" or "nah it won't be covered"
This way, as a shop, we build a relation with the guy managing warranty claims at NHS, for the better.
It makes it easier for everyone if the guy in charge at NHS trust the shop employee / owner.
Anyway, this should be covered. Insist on the truck being the elite truck and it should not bend like that
i recently did 3 warranty claims for 144 Titanium. Axle broke right at the hanger. For each broken truck, we got a pair of trucks as a replacement.
Metallurgy sidenote: you can't say a Ti axle is weaker than a chromoly. It has a lot to do with the alloy blend / composition / heat treatment / the whole process
Edit: Even if it's good they replaced your bent truck, i'm pretty sure they'll get a pair as a replacement...
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The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
It's a bummer because they have a lot of life left.
It's not as bad as these TI's the other guy postet. But enough to kill my wheels. So you say you hammered axles back to straight and it worked out? Did you skate them on your regular board too or just for cruisers?
I was thinking about that but wasn't so sure..
I have still skated them with no issues after hammering them back to straight, from being bent, but I know other people will not touch them again for fear of them bending again / even more. Hammered back standard / solid axles and hollow without issue and they have been good since but ti axles never seem to hammer back once bent, no matter how much I pound them.
Here is something I posted a while ago, which is easy enough to see. This is just one way, but it worked. The old full metal hammer has been a good one, but I have a solid metal mallet which has more weight and works even better.
It is just getting the position right and keeping a nut on so it does not wreck the axle threads.
* I would usually hold it in place, but to film I had to just sit it there.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CYc40EopBQk/
Indeed I'm a bit worried to skate them again. I put the truck into a vice and slowly bended it back to a point where my eyes think they are straight. I think I'll give them away. Just started riding Ventures. I'm kinda over indys now. Not because I don't like them but all the quality issues I had kinda killed the vibe.
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I'm getting a single new truck from the shop, which is acceptable for me right now. I mean it's not super nice, but it's reasonable as it completely eliminates my problem. The long term reliability of titanium trucks concerns me much more.
Yea that's why I went back to hollows first and now after bending them too i went the venture way.. Let's see if they are any better in the long run. I mean the only real benefits I had with TI was the axles won't get beat up as easy on the threads. Didn't felt the weight differents at all. One truck replacement is better than nothing. Maybe if they break you will get a new set like me. But I don't hope so.. :-X
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Edit: Even if it's good they replaced your bent truck, i'm pretty sure they'll get a pair as a replacement...
That's wack if they weaseled me out of a truck, but I'll give them the benefit of the doubt. I bought the trucks at Titus, never had issues. Worth to inquire NHS?
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The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
It's a bummer because they have a lot of life left.
It's not as bad as these TI's the other guy postet. But enough to kill my wheels. So you say you hammered axles back to straight and it worked out? Did you skate them on your regular board too or just for cruisers?
I was thinking about that but wasn't so sure..
It’s easy enough to bend steel back straight with good leverage. Make sure you protect the threads. But also contact Indy and see if they’ll offer you a warranty replacement.
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The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
It's a bummer because they have a lot of life left.
It's not as bad as these TI's the other guy postet. But enough to kill my wheels. So you say you hammered axles back to straight and it worked out? Did you skate them on your regular board too or just for cruisers?
I was thinking about that but wasn't so sure..
It’s easy enough to bend steel back straight with good leverage. Make sure you protect the threads. But also contact Indy and see if they’ll offer you a warranty replacement.
I already did bend the axle back with good result. The thing is.. It was kinda easy, a little bit to easy. I don't think they will stay straight for long. It's already the 3rd replacement and I'm kinda over it now. Gonna give them away and call it a day.
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The most annoying thing is I can never hammer the ti axles straight again, as per other standard / normal axle trucks to give them a new life, more so on a cruiser or kids board, as once the axles have bent at all, they are weaker from then on.
It's a bummer because they have a lot of life left.
It's not as bad as these TI's the other guy postet. But enough to kill my wheels. So you say you hammered axles back to straight and it worked out? Did you skate them on your regular board too or just for cruisers?
I was thinking about that but wasn't so sure..
It’s easy enough to bend steel back straight with good leverage. Make sure you protect the threads. But also contact Indy and see if they’ll offer you a warranty replacement.
Hollow steel has a higher fatigue limit than a regular 4140 chromoly axle would, so yeah I suspect that it’s subtly deforming.
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@Uncle Flea Labor has some stage 4 151's (8.625)
not the widest, but close.
https://laborskateshop.com/products/independent-stage-4-polished-trucks-set-of-2?_pos=1&_fid=882c69c03&_ss=c&variant=40039151370342
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Yeah I love my mids. Maybe only 10 hours in them so far but they’re great for me. Standard Indy’s are too tall for me and are one of my least favorite options, but these rules. I skated classic Aces forever so weight wasn’t an issue and kingpin clearance isn’t a major factor for me. I ain’t dipping any smiths any time soon.
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I've got some unskated Mids on ice, if someone wants them I'll make a good deal. With my new job, I'm skating so infrequently, as skating curbs even less often, so I expect my Ace will late me a few more years at this rate.
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Is anyone by chance thinking of giving them a go? If so, why?
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Is anyone by chance thinking of giving them a go? If so, why?
HAHAHA my fucking laptop was bugging out. ahh
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bought myself some indy blue 92a bushings to replace the stock ones on my forged hollows and they are really loose on the kingpin. there's a good 2-3mm gap between the inner hole of the bushing to the kingpin edge compared to the stock ones that slide down the kingpin not tight but snug.
has anyone noticed this when replacing theirs before?
tempted to try a set of bones hards, just using one on top (roadside), leaving the boardside bushing stock.
anyone running this combo or able to offer another solution?
sorry for asking but i dont want to scroll 45 pages to see if anyones come across the same thing.
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bought myself some indy blue 92a bushings to replace the stock ones on my forged hollows and they are really loose on the kingpin. there's a good 2-3mm gap between the inner hole of the bushing to the kingpin edge compared to the stock ones that slide down the kingpin not tight but snug.
has anyone noticed this when replacing theirs before?
tempted to try a set of bones hards, just using one on top (roadside), leaving the boardside bushing stock.
anyone running this combo or able to offer another solution?
sorry for asking but i dont want to scroll 45 pages to see if anyones come across the same thing.
I've never noticed this personally and ive tried a bunch of indy aftermarkets.
I know there is a lot to sort through, but the search function works pretty well when narrowed down to a single thread.
searching the words "bushing loose" returned just a page of results, with nothing related to your issue.
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I have the indy blue ones and they dont seem loose, they seem pretty snug. i just took them off after riding thme awhile and they are still pretty damn snug. you might have got some bad ones.
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I have the indy blue ones and they dont seem loose, they seem pretty snug. i just took them off after riding thme awhile and they are still pretty damn snug. you might have got some bad ones.
thats what it sounds like to me.
also, i miss your old sig =[
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i cant lie it would be just my luck to have got some new old stock or dodgy ones.ha
think ill head down my local shop the next chance i get rather than ordering online again and ask them if i can slide some onto an Indy first to find myself some snuggies.
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i cant lie it would be just my luck to have got some new old stock or dodgy ones.ha
think ill head down my local shop the next chance i get rather than ordering online again and ask them if i can slide some onto an Indy first to find myself some snuggies.
Probably not going to help at all, but have you put them on and had a skate with them?
Oddly enough they might work really well, but others I know have put tape round the kingpin to make things way more fitting and try to stop unwanted movement, clicks, noise and other things, which they have said work.
I have some bushings that are way easier to slip on and off, rather than having to almost force them onto the kingpin and they still hold up and work fine, so maybe give them a try first and see what they are like, given you already have them and it is no extra cost to check if they do work, then meaning you don't need more as well.
Some people shrug and give it a go, others are just "No, that's not going to happen" so I understand both sides.
* The older ones are the ones with the cross logo on the packaging, the newer ones with the diamond logo. I have some of each and I don't recall seeing a lot of play, but they are fairly easy to slip on, so most likely similar to yours. Did you get conical or cylinder?
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i cant lie it would be just my luck to have got some new old stock or dodgy ones.ha
think ill head down my local shop the next chance i get rather than ordering online again and ask them if i can slide some onto an Indy first to find myself some snuggies.
Probably not going to help at all, but have you put them on and had a skate with them?
Oddly enough they might work really well, but others I know have put tape round the kingpin to make things way more fitting and try to stop unwanted movement, clicks, noise and other things, which they have said work.
I have some bushings that are way easier to slip on and off, rather than having to almost force them onto the kingpin and they still hold up and work fine, so maybe give them a try first and see what they are like, given you already have them and it is no extra cost to check if they do work, then meaning you don't need more as well.
Some people shrug and give it a go, others are just "No, that's not going to happen" so I understand both sides.
* The older ones are the ones with the cross logo on the packaging, the newer ones with the diamond logo. I have some of each and I don't recall seeing a lot of play, but they are fairly easy to slip on, so most likely similar to yours. Did you get conical or cylinder?
yea i tried them out they skated ok and did what i needed them to do first session which surprised me tbh. no extra noises underfoot but i did hit them with a little wax before placing onto the truck to stop that.
i was just worried the extra play around the kingpin would leave too much wiggle room for them and basically cause them to snap/shear off mid turn with the extra pressure put on them and I don't want that in the back of my mind while I'm rolling up to or away from something.
*they were older with the cross logo, ill hunt down some of the diamond logo ones when i get the chance to although i may just slap some bones hards in there instead if i cant and they were just the standard cylinder ones.
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.
Not a big deal really, as they look like forty year old trucks would, one replaced generic baseplate and average looking, but there appears to be a set of Stage ONE Indy trucks on ebay right now, around or just under 8" in width too, so nothing super skinny, which would be the 131 variety, going by the old spec sheet info. Currently around $50 too.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225551937548
More than anything I was just interested to see the pics:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3gUAAOSwcbNkSgxG/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/tAQAAOSwBPFkSgxI/s-l1600.jpg)
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.
Not a big deal really, as they look like forty year old trucks would, one replaced generic baseplate and average looking, but there appears to be a set of Stage ONE Indy trucks on ebay right now, around or just under 8" in width too, so nothing super skinny, which would be the 131 variety, going by the old spec sheet info. Currently around $50 too.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225551937548
More than anything I was just interested to see the pics:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3gUAAOSwcbNkSgxG/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/tAQAAOSwBPFkSgxI/s-l1600.jpg)
Dude! What!? These are sick
Also, I bought a set of stage 4 151's from stardust skateshop in Mooresville NC while I was in town on a skate trip with the dudes.
These things are super carvy/surfy. Very fun, but I wont be riding them on my regular setup. Too squirrelly for my tastes. They're going a a cruiser.
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.
Not a big deal really, as they look like forty year old trucks would, one replaced generic baseplate and average looking, but there appears to be a set of Stage ONE Indy trucks on ebay right now, around or just under 8" in width too, so nothing super skinny, which would be the 131 variety, going by the old spec sheet info. Currently around $50 too.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225551937548
Dude! What!? These are sick
Also, I bought a set of stage 4 151's from stardust skateshop in Mooresville NC while I was in town on a skate trip with the dudes.
These things are super carvy/surfy. Very fun, but I wont be riding them on my regular setup. Too squirrelly for my tastes. They're going a a cruiser.
Bidding seems to have stalled, but I feel like modern current stage trucks, or in this case reissues with tweaks and modern materials really make the difference, so I would much rather get current trucks than vintage trucks like those ones. I am all about riding them, not just putting them on a period correct board that goes on the wall though.
Still yet to see any of those Stage IV trucks in person here in AU, but I played round with a few sets of 215s again just to make myself happy that I don't need to ride them, but smaller versions of the new ones would definitely be interesting on a cruiser or fun board, as you said you would put them on.
* Edit:
Looking at ebay, there is a seller with loads of vintage trucks and other stuff, mostly "collectable" prices, so don't expect a bargain, but it is pretty cool looking through the listings, as there are some near new looking trucks that have great pictures as well. So many old Independent trucks listed there.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/norcal_legacy_skateboards
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I have some stage 2 131s that a friend gave me and I tried skating them. The turn felt a little too unpredictable and the pop feel was atrocious. The reissued Stage 4s feel way better but Ace really strike the great balance between classic geo with a bit more predictability for modern skate needs.
My Stage 2s are in a box and nice to look at from time to time.
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After a couple of sessions on 144 Forged Hollow Mids, I have to say I really like the feel of this truck. I have 1.5mm risers on them to bring them up to 52mm. They feel snappy and turn great. Being lower and closer to the ledge is nice for grinds too. I really liked Indy Stage 10s so it's nice to have an Indy at around that height again.
I'm running 54 mm Classics and wheelbite hasn't been an issue yet, surprisingly.
The only thing that concerns me is I think my back truck might have loosened on its own during the last session. Annoying truck issues like that during a session are a real bummer and not something I am really willing to put up with. Hopefully this isn't something persistent or I'll just switch back to the regular Forged Hollow.
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Every indy ikp has that issue. NHS knows about it - they told me to just use loctite.
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The only thing that concerns me is I think my back truck might have loosened on its own during the last session. Annoying truck issues like that during a session are a real bummer and not something I am really willing to put up with. Hopefully this isn't something persistent or I'll just switch back to the regular Forged Hollow.
I retired my Ace classics because of this, back truck would loosen by itself and I ate shit on a wallie 180 going pretty fast, I thought about putting some Lock Tite or superblue but didn't want to risk it not holding up...
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Got theses on either a free board or thrift store board a while back. California is great for shit like that… at least where i live…
Stage IX 129? The half crescent holes beneath the hangars got me kinda buggin
(https://i.ibb.co/9Y5KCLK/IMG-1125.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9Y5KCLK)(https://i.ibb.co/SKFp9m6/IMG-1126.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SKFp9m6)(https://i.ibb.co/H4GCwjY/IMG-1127.jpg) (https://ibb.co/H4GCwjY)
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Stage IX 129? The half crescent holes beneath the hangars got me kinda buggin
Yup, pretty sure Stage 9s were the only ones with the holes in the baseplates.
Every indy ikp has that issue. NHS knows about it - they told me to just use loctite.
I was afraid of that. I'll give them a go for another couple of sessions but definitely not dealing with kingpin issues more than that. I'd rather go back to my usual 139 vs. 144 Forged Hollow madness.
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I put krux in my mindys….they do not loosen or tighten…..they are just kinda stuck there…
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After a couple of sessions on 144 Forged Hollow Mids, I have to say I really like the feel of this truck. I have 1.5mm risers on them to bring them up to 52mm. They feel snappy and turn great. Being lower and closer to the ledge is nice for grinds too. I really liked Indy Stage 10s so it's nice to have an Indy at around that height again.
I'm running 54 mm Classics and wheelbite hasn't been an issue yet, surprisingly.
The only thing that concerns me is I think my back truck might have loosened on its own during the last session. Annoying truck issues like that during a session are a real bummer and not something I am really willing to put up with. Hopefully this isn't something persistent or I'll just switch back to the regular Forged Hollow.
Speaking of 144s, I'm really liking my new 144 Forged Titaniums so far. I was skeptical about the bushings as I've been riding either Ace trucks or Indys with Bones bushings for the recent past, but these mofos are just great. I like the way they turn but are not the least squirrely. And they're light.
Also, some peeps have pointed the issue of axles bending on the FT's, but none of that has happened to me yet with these. I skate more transition than e.g. ledges etc., so that might help.
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After a couple of sessions on 144 Forged Hollow Mids, I have to say I really like the feel of this truck. I have 1.5mm risers on them to bring them up to 52mm. They feel snappy and turn great. Being lower and closer to the ledge is nice for grinds too. I really liked Indy Stage 10s so it's nice to have an Indy at around that height again.
I'm running 54 mm Classics and wheelbite hasn't been an issue yet, surprisingly.
The only thing that concerns me is I think my back truck might have loosened on its own during the last session. Annoying truck issues like that during a session are a real bummer and not something I am really willing to put up with. Hopefully this isn't something persistent or I'll just switch back to the regular Forged Hollow.
Speaking of 144s, I'm really liking my new 144 Forged Titaniums so far. I was skeptical about the bushings as I've been riding either Ace trucks or Indys with Bones bushings for the recent past, but these mofos are just great. I like the way they turn but are not the least squirrely. And they're light.
Also, some peeps have pointed the issue of axles bending on the FT's, but none of that has happened to me yet with these. I skate more transition than e.g. ledges etc., so that might help.
Indy makes more aftermarket bushings hardnesses (in both cylinder and conical) than any other truck mfg. With those, you should be able to get your trucks to turn/function •exactly• as you want them to.
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I like the Titaniums but I noticed some deformation of the bolts holes on the plate.Never had that before on old indys...
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Stage IX 129? The half crescent holes beneath the hangars got me kinda buggin
Yup, pretty sure Stage 9s were the only ones with the holes in the baseplates.
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Every indy ikp has that issue. NHS knows about it - they told me to just use loctite.
I was afraid of that. I'll give them a go for another couple of sessions but definitely not dealing with kingpin issues more than that. I'd rather go back to my usual 139 vs. 144 Forged Hollow madness.
Yes you got it. Stage 9 were the first very thin "computer drafted" hangers with the holes in the baseplates to make the trucks way more street / light weight orientated from older versions, which worked to a point, but I broke so many of those baseplates, as did everyone else it seems.
As to the Indy mid kingpin, best to get them where you want them and then mark on the kingpin in some way to keep an eye on them, see if they move, etc. I found that if I had the kingpins done up full lock, they didn't move at all, so either having just the right bushing option to then have full lock, or the nearest thing is the best way to skate them for the life of the trucks, but having them more on the looser side means that the kingpin is only half way down in the threads and more likely to move, as well as sitting up higher, causing less clearance.
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I like the Titaniums but I noticed some deformation of the bolts holes on the plate.Never had that before on old indys...
the forged plate feels a bit softer than the raw one
it could just be that your hardware was loose for too long too
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I like the Titaniums but I noticed some deformation of the bolts holes on the plate.Never had that before on old indys...
it could just be that your hardware was loose for too long too
Forged plate is def harder than the cast plates.
Hardware was too loose.
Hardware holes getting all oval-y has always happened because of this
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I was always really lame about swapping bushings cuz of the idea that Indy's stock are like, just bolt on and then work. But when they moved to China I swear the bushings got softer or my preferences changed. I recently have been using blues and they're great. I still get a super deep turn but it doesn't push into bite as easily.
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I was always really lame about swapping bushings cuz of the idea that Indy's stock are like, just bolt on and then work. But when they moved to China I swear the bushings got softer or my preferences changed. I recently have been using blues and they're great. I still get a super deep turn but it doesn't push into bite as easily.
You might be onto something here. As a part-time Ace rider, I actually really like the current stock orange Indy bushings. Might give the blue ones a go someday, though.
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I was always really lame about swapping bushings cuz of the idea that Indy's stock are like, just bolt on and then work. But when they moved to China I swear the bushings got softer or my preferences changed. I recently have been using blues and they're great. I still get a super deep turn but it doesn't push into bite as easily.
I also use blue. Love them.
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I like the Titaniums but I noticed some deformation of the bolts holes on the plate.Never had that before on old indys...
it could just be that your hardware was loose for too long too
Forged plate is def harder than the cast plates.
Hardware was too loose.
Hardware holes getting all oval-y has always happened because of this
You're right, i typed it the other way around. brainfart
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I like the Titaniums but I noticed some deformation of the bolts holes on the plate.Never had that before on old indys...
it could just be that your hardware was loose for too long too
Forged plate is def harder than the cast plates.
Hardware was too loose.
Hardware holes getting all oval-y has always happened because of this
You're right, i typed it the other way around. brainfart
No sweat homie! <3
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I was always really lame about swapping bushings cuz of the idea that Indy's stock are like, just bolt on and then work. But when they moved to China I swear the bushings got softer or my preferences changed. I recently have been using blues and they're great. I still get a super deep turn but it doesn't push into bite as easily.
@LebowskisRug not trying to add to any bushing swap madness but I've found that the Indy 90D orange aftermarkets are actually harder than the new standard issue ones for some reason.
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As to the Indy mid kingpin, best to get them where you want them and then mark on the kingpin in some way to keep an eye on them, see if they move, etc. I found that if I had the kingpins done up full lock, they didn't move at all, so either having just the right bushing option to then have full lock, or the nearest thing is the best way to skate them for the life of the trucks, but having them more on the looser side means that the kingpin is only half way down in the threads and more likely to move, as well as sitting up higher, causing less clearance.
Already have the kingpin nut marked with a sharpie for the next session. Hopefully they stay put.
And I actually was riding my trucks slightly looser than normal last session to break in the bushings. I ride my trucks at a solid medium so getting full lock with the stock bushings might not be a problem.
Thanks!
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Echoing Firebert above, yeah if you are all about running inverted kingpins loctite is something that will need to be a part of your routine when messing with your trucks. Whether it’s the new Indy IKP baseplates or any other brand, if you run loose trucks and carve a lot, the nylock just isn’t enough. It’s really not that bad though, anytime I need to take apart my trucks to mess with bushings I just clean and wax all contact points like usual, then just reapply loctite and let it sit overnight. Haven’t had any issues with them loosening by not letting it cure for 24hrs. I use the OG Krux kingpins and the grind is just so damn good. Never hang up, never even touch the top washer thing that fits around the kingpin, and I’m about to be hitting axle any day now.
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(https://i.ibb.co/RSYffbw/194adfe67726a2d35921a3668108fb7b.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RSYffbw)
(https://i.ibb.co/k1p6wck/e53a5ed8cc54801320f69b9d2491b8d4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k1p6wck)
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Blue 243 is what you want
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Yeah, the way the colors break down with Loctite is generally as follows:
Red - Semi-Permanent, for “setting and forgetting”. Can be adjusted with hand tools, but this breaks the bond and will need to be cleaned and reapplied.
Blue - For bolts which see regular adjustment, moving the threads will not permanently break the bond. Ideal for skateboard trucks
Green - Void filler, functionally permanent. Often requires a heat gun or other external force to break free. Difficult to clean up after it solidifies
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I was always really lame about swapping bushings cuz of the idea that Indy's stock are like, just bolt on and then work. But when they moved to China I swear the bushings got softer or my preferences changed. I recently have been using blues and they're great. I still get a super deep turn but it doesn't push into bite as easily.
@LebowskisRug not trying to add to any bushing swap madness but I've found that the Indy 90D orange aftermarkets are actually harder than the new standard issue ones for some reason.
It's been this way for at least the last decade in my experience. I only skate the aftermarkets orange bushings, they're perfect and don't require breaking in.
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I was always really lame about swapping bushings cuz of the idea that Indy's stock are like, just bolt on and then work. But when they moved to China I swear the bushings got softer or my preferences changed. I recently have been using blues and they're great. I still get a super deep turn but it doesn't push into bite as easily.
@LebowskisRug not trying to add to any bushing swap madness but I've found that the Indy 90D orange aftermarkets are actually harder than the new standard issue ones for some reason.
It's been this way for at least the last decade in my experience. I only skate the aftermarkets orange bushings, they're perfect and don't require breaking in.
the latest drops of indy's have much better stock bushings ime.
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I was always really lame about swapping bushings cuz of the idea that Indy's stock are like, just bolt on and then work. But when they moved to China I swear the bushings got softer or my preferences changed. I recently have been using blues and they're great. I still get a super deep turn but it doesn't push into bite as easily.
@LebowskisRug not trying to add to any bushing swap madness but I've found that the Indy 90D orange aftermarkets are actually harder than the new standard issue ones for some reason.
It's been this way for at least the last decade in my experience. I only skate the aftermarkets orange bushings, they're perfect and don't require breaking in.
the latest drops of indy's have much better stock bushings ime.
Much better than they used to be, but no way are they as hard as the aftermarket orange.
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I was always really lame about swapping bushings cuz of the idea that Indy's stock are like, just bolt on and then work. But when they moved to China I swear the bushings got softer or my preferences changed. I recently have been using blues and they're great. I still get a super deep turn but it doesn't push into bite as easily.
@LebowskisRug not trying to add to any bushing swap madness but I've found that the Indy 90D orange aftermarkets are actually harder than the new standard issue ones for some reason.
It's been this way for at least the last decade in my experience. I only skate the aftermarkets orange bushings, they're perfect and don't require breaking in.
the latest drops of indy's have much better stock bushings ime.
Yes, agreed.
It is interesting to note, as the average user has loosened off the trucks over the past decade or two, stock bushings have become softer, even if the marketing blurb says they are still the same durometer.
The one other thing to note with stock bushings is that they firm up considerably from when first used, whereas the aftermarket bushings don't seem to firm up quite as much as stock bushings do in this case with Indy brand product.
It is only more as the bushings break, crack or crumble that the trucks become looser with age, but the aftermarket bushings seem to hold up better than the stock bushings too.
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Durometer is just sticking a needle in something and while it's one measure, it doesn't really account for how specific urethane responds when compressed (for bushings) or slide (for wheels)
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Anybody over their stage 4 166 and looking to move them along?
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(https://i.ibb.co/XSHQFyq/45-F7-CEA2-0-A84-4-DCF-8-C29-1-EC869-DFAC83.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XSHQFyq)
(https://i.ibb.co/6PYrYRs/027-A0496-20-C5-4513-8-D12-17-E34-EBAAFCC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6PYrYRs)
Took a break from skating Indys for like nine months and finally busted out these beauties today. Felt comfortable on them almost immediately and had a great session. Feels good to be back - until I inevitably get distracted by some other truck in the near future…
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(https://i.ibb.co/XSHQFyq/45-F7-CEA2-0-A84-4-DCF-8-C29-1-EC869-DFAC83.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XSHQFyq)
(https://i.ibb.co/6PYrYRs/027-A0496-20-C5-4513-8-D12-17-E34-EBAAFCC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6PYrYRs)
Took a break from skating Indys for like nine months and finally busted out these beauties today. Felt comfortable on them almost immediately and had a great session. Feels good to be back - until I inevitably get distracted by some other truck in the near future…
Welcome back.
I'm currently on a vacation with ace trucks.
I'm not sure how much longer that will last.
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Yeah, the way the colors break down with Loctite is generally as follows:
Red - Semi-Permanent, for “setting and forgetting”. Can be adjusted with hand tools, but this breaks the bond and will need to be cleaned and reapplied.
Blue - For bolts which see regular adjustment, moving the threads will not permanently break the bond. Ideal for skateboard trucks
Green - Void filler, functionally permanent. Often requires a heat gun or other external force to break free. Difficult to clean up after it solidifies
is loctite green better than just regular superglue?
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(https://i.ibb.co/XSHQFyq/45-F7-CEA2-0-A84-4-DCF-8-C29-1-EC869-DFAC83.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XSHQFyq)
(https://i.ibb.co/6PYrYRs/027-A0496-20-C5-4513-8-D12-17-E34-EBAAFCC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6PYrYRs)
Took a break from skating Indys for like nine months and finally busted out these beauties today. Felt comfortable on them almost immediately and had a great session. Feels good to be back - until I inevitably get distracted by some other truck in the near future…
Welcome back.
I'm currently on a vacation with ace trucks.
I'm not sure how much longer that will last.
Thank you sir.
We talking AF1’s or Classics?
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(https://i.ibb.co/XSHQFyq/45-F7-CEA2-0-A84-4-DCF-8-C29-1-EC869-DFAC83.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XSHQFyq)
(https://i.ibb.co/6PYrYRs/027-A0496-20-C5-4513-8-D12-17-E34-EBAAFCC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6PYrYRs)
Took a break from skating Indys for like nine months and finally busted out these beauties today. Felt comfortable on them almost immediately and had a great session. Feels good to be back - until I inevitably get distracted by some other truck in the near future…
Welcome back.
I'm currently on a vacation with ace trucks.
I'm not sure how much longer that will last.
Thank you sir.
We talking AF1’s or Classics?
AF1's
and after a lack luster session on them yesterday I setup a new deck with my indy 149's haha. Ti hanger, cast plate.
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Yeah, the way the colors break down with Loctite is generally as follows:
Red - Semi-Permanent, for “setting and forgetting”. Can be adjusted with hand tools, but this breaks the bond and will need to be cleaned and reapplied.
Blue - For bolts which see regular adjustment, moving the threads will not permanently break the bond. Ideal for skateboard trucks
Green - Void filler, functionally permanent. Often requires a heat gun or other external force to break free. Difficult to clean up after it solidifies
is loctite green better than just regular superglue?
yes, loctite is specifically design to hold up against vibrations
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Yeah, the way the colors break down with Loctite is generally as follows:
Red - Semi-Permanent, for “setting and forgetting”. Can be adjusted with hand tools, but this breaks the bond and will need to be cleaned and reapplied.
Blue - For bolts which see regular adjustment, moving the threads will not permanently break the bond. Ideal for skateboard trucks
Green - Void filler, functionally permanent. Often requires a heat gun or other external force to break free. Difficult to clean up after it solidifies
I thought adjusting would break the bond with the blue but lately I’ve had to do it a couple times after overtightening initially before it set, and you’re right, everything still holds up. I also don’t even let it cure 24 hours before skating. Just overnight into the next day so about half the time, 12 hours. I think that’s plenty of time. I also read on some mechanic forums dudes will immediately use stuff after tightening it and not have issues. Something about after an hour it’s already pretty set since air is what cures it. If I take apart the trucks though, I definitely clean off the threads with rubbing alcohol, dry and reapply.
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Yeah, the way the colors break down with Loctite is generally as follows:
Red - Semi-Permanent, for “setting and forgetting”. Can be adjusted with hand tools, but this breaks the bond and will need to be cleaned and reapplied.
Blue - For bolts which see regular adjustment, moving the threads will not permanently break the bond. Ideal for skateboard trucks
Green - Void filler, functionally permanent. Often requires a heat gun or other external force to break free. Difficult to clean up after it solidifies
is loctite green better than just regular superglue?
Apples and oranges. I know some people claim success with superglue, but I've never tried and and I don't know why I would when a tube of generic blue threadlocker is a few dollars at any hardware store. As for green, I would avoid it altogether. Once you set it up it is difficult to make any adjustments, and cleanup is a pain.
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Second this ^. And even cleaning up/breaking red can suck.
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Second this ^. And even cleaning up/breaking red can suck.
I think i mentioned it in another thread, but i unknowingly (didnt understand the different strengths) used red on a switch i was mounting my campervan conversion.
I told my very mechanically inclined friend and he just looked at me all wide eyed like i really fucked up haha.
Not looking forward to the day i need to take that off lol.
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I did it on my campervan on a bolt that was going into a Rivnut in a wall. The fucking Rivnut started spinning and pulling out of the wall. I ended up trying to remove the bolt and it broke in the nut and god that was the worst afternoon.
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I did it on my campervan on a bolt that was going into a Rivnut in a wall. The fucking Rivnut started spinning and pulling out of the wall. I ended up trying to remove the bolt and it broke in the nut and god that was the worst afternoon.
hahaha I used green loctite on my van when attaching the 2" hitch on the rear, because I figured I wanted this to be as permanent as possible. I actually even prepped everything by chasing the female end and using a wire wheel to remove any rust or corrosion on the old bolts. I'm not eager to have my bumper, bike and bike rack come tumbling off somewhere on the highway.
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I did it on my campervan on a bolt that was going into a Rivnut in a wall. The fucking Rivnut started spinning and pulling out of the wall. I ended up trying to remove the bolt and it broke in the nut and god that was the worst afternoon.
hahaha I used green loctite on my van when attaching the 2" hitch on the rear, because I figured I wanted this to be as permanent as possible. I actually even prepped everything by chasing the female end and using a wire wheel to remove any rust or corrosion on the old bolts. I'm not eager to have my bumper, bike and bike rack come tumbling off somewhere on the highway.
Probably a legitimate use for it.
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(https://i.ibb.co/XSHQFyq/45-F7-CEA2-0-A84-4-DCF-8-C29-1-EC869-DFAC83.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XSHQFyq)
(https://i.ibb.co/6PYrYRs/027-A0496-20-C5-4513-8-D12-17-E34-EBAAFCC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6PYrYRs)
Took a break from skating Indys for like nine months and finally busted out these beauties today. Felt comfortable on them almost immediately and had a great session. Feels good to be back - until I inevitably get distracted by some other truck in the near future…
Welcome back.
I'm currently on a vacation with ace trucks.
I'm not sure how much longer that will last.
Thank you sir.
We talking AF1’s or Classics?
AF1's
and after a lack luster session on them yesterday I setup a new deck with my indy 149's haha. Ti hanger, cast plate.
Word - I enjoy the classics but wasn’t really feeling the AF1’s when I tried them. Glad you’re back on Indys haha
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i really cant see a difference between classics and af1 when riding, i must be dumb :D
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(https://i.ibb.co/XSHQFyq/45-F7-CEA2-0-A84-4-DCF-8-C29-1-EC869-DFAC83.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XSHQFyq)
(https://i.ibb.co/6PYrYRs/027-A0496-20-C5-4513-8-D12-17-E34-EBAAFCC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6PYrYRs)
Took a break from skating Indys for like nine months and finally busted out these beauties today. Felt comfortable on them almost immediately and had a great session. Feels good to be back - until I inevitably get distracted by some other truck in the near future…
Welcome back.
I'm currently on a vacation with ace trucks.
I'm not sure how much longer that will last.
Thank you sir.
We talking AF1’s or Classics?
AF1's
and after a lack luster session on them yesterday I setup a new deck with my indy 149's haha. Ti hanger, cast plate.
Word - I enjoy the classics but wasn’t really feeling the AF1’s when I tried them. Glad you’re back on Indys haha
We'll see, this new deck has short steep kicks. Already had to put the forged plates on the indys. Aces might work better, idk madness blah blah blah.
I nearly axled two sets of ace classics, I also bent two sets. After some time on the AF1s I think I prefer them to classics. I did not feel that way at first though. Had to run them way tighter than I thought, and use the hard bushings.
Still running 22 classics on my zip zinger.
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Yeah, the way the colors break down with Loctite is generally as follows:
Red - Semi-Permanent, for “setting and forgetting”. Can be adjusted with hand tools, but this breaks the bond and will need to be cleaned and reapplied.
Blue - For bolts which see regular adjustment, moving the threads will not permanently break the bond. Ideal for skateboard trucks
Green - Void filler, functionally permanent. Often requires a heat gun or other external force to break free. Difficult to clean up after it solidifies
is loctite green better than just regular superglue?
Apples and oranges. I know some people claim success with superglue, but I've never tried and and I don't know why I would when a tube of generic blue threadlocker is a few dollars at any hardware store. As for green, I would avoid it altogether. Once you set it up it is difficult to make any adjustments, and cleanup is a pain.
Some non-Loctite blue generic ass brand cost me 10 fucking bucks today…
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just wanted to say indy, please for the love of god rerelease those stage 4s at some point. these trucks are so good honestly.
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just wanted to say indy, please for the love of god rerelease those stage 4s at some point. these trucks are so good honestly.
I thought they were coming in as a standard line, with NHS bringing them out on their own online store this or next month, from what others had said.
As I haven't really followed them as they barely made it out here to Australia (only a few people got a set or two) and the main release is still yet to happen here as per info from one of the bigger main shops, I am guessing there are going to be a whole lot more of them soon enough.
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just wanted to say indy, please for the love of god rerelease those stage 4s at some point. these trucks are so good honestly.
I thought they were coming in as a standard line, with NHS bringing them out on their own online store this or next month, from what others had said.
As I haven't really followed them as they barely made it out here to Australia (only a few people got a set or two) and the main release is still yet to happen here as per info from one of the bigger main shops, I am guessing there are going to be a whole lot more of them soon enough.
Yeah that's what I thought. You can order them from pretty much any online shop now. I know tactics and ccs have them.
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just wanted to say indy, please for the love of god rerelease those stage 4s at some point. these trucks are so good honestly.
I thought they were coming in as a standard line, with NHS bringing them out on their own online store this or next month, from what others had said.
As I haven't really followed them as they barely made it out here to Australia (only a few people got a set or two) and the main release is still yet to happen here as per info from one of the bigger main shops, I am guessing there are going to be a whole lot more of them soon enough.
Just checked the other day and no aftermarket bushings in the new size either. I think we are still in the rollout phase and I remember something about Summer?
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Has anyone ever stepped up from 149 to 159 on a 8.5” board? Was it better and how noticeable was the difference?
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Has anyone ever stepped up from 149 to 159 on a 8.5” board? Was it better and how noticeable was the difference?
I rode 149s and 159s on both 8.5 and 8.75 a few years back.
The extra hanger space from 159s is rad, but personally i ended up preferring a smaller setup overall.
if you mainly ride transition, i'd say you will probably like 159s on 8.5
I think hewitt rides 159s or 169s on 8.38-8.5
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Has anyone ever stepped up from 149 to 159 on a 8.5” board? Was it better and how noticeable was the difference?
I did, for the sole purpose of skating a double sided curb that 159s allowed me to sit on top of it. Didn't notice much other than weight...if you rode 149s on an 8.25, 159s on an 8.5 is the same biz.
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Thanks for the input :) I currently skate an 8.5 with 149 titaniums. I thought that the 159’s would offer a bit more stability, and if I stick to Titaniums and a not too long wheelbase, everything would still remain quite manageable regarding flips/pops.
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Has anyone ever stepped up from 149 to 159 on a 8.5” board? Was it better and how noticeable was the difference?
I rode 149s and 159s on both 8.5 and 8.75 a few years back.
The extra hanger space from 159s is rad, but personally i ended up preferring a smaller setup overall.
if you mainly ride transition, i'd say you will probably like 159s on 8.5
I think hewitt rides 159s or 169s on 8.38-8.5
Yes Peter Hewitt has ti 159s on the 8.38 (which I have been meaning to setup just to see as I have everything here) but I think too that more people who ride big transition / vert stuff usually go more for wider trucks as it balances everything out and makes it way more stable.
For a street setup, there are some guys who have done that combo before - Jamie Foy was on Thunder 151s on 8.5 boards for a while, but now is back down on more tucked in under trucks, from what others were saying.
Chris Wimer does Indy 159s on 8.5 with 56 mm conical full wheels and he shreds!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUd8k7ZF2G1/
The best way to feel it out first is put three, or even four washers on the inside only of each wheel and then lean on the board to get your weight over two wheels only, as this pretty much makes them more like 153 / 154 mm in total hanger width, but still not quite the 159 width.
Even just doing that I could feel a significant difference to minimal washers on 149s, so it can make things feel different, not so much good or bad, but just different, if that makes sense.
From trying other normal 159s on 8.5 boards a while back, my balance was a bit off with the wider hanger, whereas the 149s on 8.5 and 159s on 8.6 or 8.75 just felt right, with the main area being where I would lean and grind on transition, as well as some gentle street skating.
If you like the stability, you should be stoked on the 159s on 8.5 boards.
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Has anyone ever stepped up from 149 to 159 on a 8.5” board? Was it better and how noticeable was the difference?
I rode 149s and 159s on both 8.5 and 8.75 a few years back.
The extra hanger space from 159s is rad, but personally i ended up preferring a smaller setup overall.
if you mainly ride transition, i'd say you will probably like 159s on 8.5
I think hewitt rides 159s or 169s on 8.38-8.5
Yes Peter Hewitt has ti 159s on the 8.38 (which I have been meaning to setup just to see as I have everything here) but I think too that more people who ride big transition / vert stuff usually go more for wider trucks as it balances everything out and makes it way more stable.
For a street setup, there are some guys who have done that combo before - Jamie Foy was on Thunder 151s on 8.5 boards for a while, but now is back down on more tucked in under trucks, from what others were saying.
Chris Wimer does Indy 159s on 8.5 with 56 mm conical full wheels and he shreds!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUd8k7ZF2G1/
The best way to feel it out first is put three, or even four washers on the inside only of each wheel and then lean on the board to get your weight over two wheels only, as this pretty much makes them more like 153 / 154 mm in total hanger width, but still not quite the 159 width.
Even just doing that I could feel a significant difference to minimal washers on 149s, so it can make things feel different, not so much good or bad, but just different, if that makes sense.
From trying other normal 159s on 8.5 boards a while back, my balance was a bit off with the wider hanger, whereas the 149s on 8.5 and 159s on 8.6 or 8.75 just felt right, with the main area being where I would lean and grind on transition, as well as some gentle street skating.
If you like the stability, you should be stoked on the 159s on 8.5 boards.
holy shit is he running those yellow indy super hard bushings?!
I figured only very heavy people or megaramp dudes would ride those.
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I’ve had the perfect dialed in frankentrucks for over a year now with ace hangers on some stage 7 baseplates and inverted kingpins. But I ride smaller width Ace’s like AF1 44’s or classic 33’s with extra washers to push the wheels out. Pulled out some unused stage 11 159’s last night and now the truck madness is kicking in. Will the bigger trucks help me grab coping better and get on top of slappies easier? I ask myself this shit and visualize it as I lose sleep lying in bed at night, no joke ::) yet I can already do it fine with the smaller trucks. God damnit I hate truck madness.
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Has anyone ever stepped up from 149 to 159 on a 8.5” board? Was it better and how noticeable was the difference?
I rode 149s and 159s on both 8.5 and 8.75 a few years back.
The extra hanger space from 159s is rad, but personally i ended up preferring a smaller setup overall.
if you mainly ride transition, i'd say you will probably like 159s on 8.5
I think hewitt rides 159s or 169s on 8.38-8.5
Yes Peter Hewitt has ti 159s on the 8.38 (which I have been meaning to setup just to see as I have everything here) but I think too that more people who ride big transition / vert stuff usually go more for wider trucks as it balances everything out and makes it way more stable.
For a street setup, there are some guys who have done that combo before - Jamie Foy was on Thunder 151s on 8.5 boards for a while, but now is back down on more tucked in under trucks, from what others were saying.
Chris Wimer does Indy 159s on 8.5 with 56 mm conical full wheels and he shreds!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUd8k7ZF2G1/
The best way to feel it out first is put three, or even four washers on the inside only of each wheel and then lean on the board to get your weight over two wheels only, as this pretty much makes them more like 153 / 154 mm in total hanger width, but still not quite the 159 width.
Even just doing that I could feel a significant difference to minimal washers on 149s, so it can make things feel different, not so much good or bad, but just different, if that makes sense.
From trying other normal 159s on 8.5 boards a while back, my balance was a bit off with the wider hanger, whereas the 149s on 8.5 and 159s on 8.6 or 8.75 just felt right, with the main area being where I would lean and grind on transition, as well as some gentle street skating.
If you like the stability, you should be stoked on the 159s on 8.5 boards.
holy shit is he running those yellow indy super hard bushings?!
I figured only very heavy people or megaramp dudes would ride those.
I was gonna point that out too! I run the blacks and I probably weigh two Chris Wimers
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I was gonna point that out too! I run the blacks and I probably weigh two Chris Wimers
I run the blacks as well (standard cylinder) and I probably weight the same as him, 160-175ish
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Has anyone ever stepped up from 149 to 159 on a 8.5” board? Was it better and how noticeable was the difference?
I made the switch months ago and to me it feels better to have 159s on there than to have some frankensteined 149s at this point.
I was curious about stage iv 151 but I don’t think I’ll need to
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Has anyone ever stepped up from 149 to 159 on a 8.5” board? Was it better and how noticeable was the difference?
Landing primo sucked ass but other than that you'll get more hanger space without needing to get a new deck if that's what you were concerned about. There also felt like a small increase in stability. It's nice and I'd do it again if I wasn't so pedantic on making my axle length match the deck width (or at least as close as I can get to).
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Thanks everyone for their input. I actually didn’t take too much time to doubt/think about it and just went and got a pair of 159 titaniums. I skated them today for the first time and I really like them! Even though it’s just 1/8” extra on both sides, the difference in stability is noticeable. Setting up for tricks and popping actually feels a lot better than the Indy 149’s and Ace AF1 55’s between which I was switching back and forth. Even though I didn’t have a very good night sleep, tricks just went better right from the beginning.
I actually think I’ve found my perfect truck :)
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I rode 149s and 159s on both 8.5 and 8.75 a few years back.
The extra hanger space from 159s is rad, but personally i ended up preferring a smaller setup overall.
if you mainly ride transition, i'd say you will probably like 159s on 8.5
I think hewitt rides 159s or 169s on 8.38-8.5
Chris Wimer does Indy 159s on 8.5 with 56 mm conical full wheels and he shreds!
holy shit is he running those yellow indy super hard bushings?!
I figured only very heavy people or megaramp dudes would ride those.
Quite a lot of those guys ride trucks a lot tighter than what people might think, but that is how they maintain such control and pop, so it makes sense.
One of my friends who is way more street tech than me also runs the yellow bushings with the kingpin nut flush and once broken in they still turn enough without being anything near loose, so although I can't skate his boards, the setup sure does feel firm and stable.
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Idk I just watched a wimer part trucks didn't look that tight
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Idk I just watched a wimer part trucks didn't look that tight
The broken in set of yellow 96 duro "super hard" bushings are still not as hard as some of the very hard ones out there, but they do give a lot more stability for people who want it, so yes you can still carve this way and that easily enough, as seen in the clip above, second frame from his Zero board in that Instagram link.
On this board I just pulled out here, with old broken in yellow Indy bushings on standard trucks with the nut flush, I can still push down enough to just get the wheel to touch wood, but it is a lot harder than on stock bushings or on my usual board with the low red bushings in the 92 red I usually ride.
By no means are they as stiff as people skated in the 90s and 00s, when comparing the Indy yellow bushings to something like the Destructo green bushings or Doh Dohs that most people I know had at the time.
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I can't help but feel like they're gonna do hollow stage 4's
Seems like they've been generally well received, with weight being the only common criticism
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Weight and kingpin clearance*
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I'm always surprised at how much tighter pros run trucks when I see their boards in person than we assume they are. Leo Romero rides hard crannnnnnked and Tom Knox runs the yellows sometimes too. I've seen plenty of Ace riders with 2-3 threads showing as well.
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I'm always surprised at how much tighter pros run trucks when I see their boards in person than we assume they are. Leo Romero rides hard crannnnnnked and Tom Knox runs the yellows sometimes too. I've seen plenty of Ace riders with 2-3 threads showing as well.
Tom knox runs yellows? His shit looks loose. flat washers?
2-3 threads showing on stock ace bushings is still kinda loose for me (170ish lbs)
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I think his nickname is "Tight Trucks Tom". In some videos he has the newer yellows which aren't far off a faded orange, in others he has the orange with a few threads showing.
I'm 165 and run blues with a thread showing and find that acceptable.
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I think his nickname is "Tight Trucks Tom". In some videos he has the newer yellows which aren't far off a faded orange, in others he has the orange with a few threads showing.
I'm 165 and run blues with a thread showing and find that acceptable.
this tom knox?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5HFpcYDi28
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I'm always surprised at how much tighter pros run trucks when I see their boards in person than we assume they are. Leo Romero rides hard crannnnnnked and Tom Knox runs the yellows sometimes too. I've seen plenty of Ace riders with 2-3 threads showing as well.
It's the cheapest/easiest/quickest way to shorten your wheelbase ;D
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Yup that one! The rear truck kingpin would have 2-3 threads but has been feebled/smithed down enough you can't tell. Front seems to have 2. There was another video of his I paused a few times (can't remember which it was) where you could see faded yellows. Could get the same effect from both.
I mean Reynolds is famous for cranking and swerves fine. It's not always obvious. Suciu turns just fine and in his Habitat setup video has his Thunders cranked to 2-3 threads which for me would be insanely stiff.
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I think the reality is that pros are skating much, much faster than you or me, so their inertia more than compensates for how tight their trucks are. Look at David Gonzalez, who probably weighs ~135 pounds soaking wet.
https://youtu.be/TQQtaOf9FOc
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I think the reality is that pros are skating much, much faster than you or I, so their inertia more than compensates for how tight their trucks are. Look at David Gonzalez, who probably weighs ~135 pounds soaking wet.
https://youtu.be/TQQtaOf9FOc
very true
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I've also been at spots where pros are constantly tinkering with their trucks all sesh. Not minor 1/4 turn adjustments like a full turn each time. Chances are we only see whatever snapshot of their day if that's the case. Plus newer trucks have stiffer bushings usually and over time they might crank more and more as the bushings wear.
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I think the reality is that pros are skating much, much faster than you or I, so their inertia more than compensates for how tight their trucks are. Look at David Gonzalez, who probably weighs ~135 pounds soaking wet.
https://youtu.be/TQQtaOf9FOc
very true
omg, omg, omg! what are bushing even?
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I can't help but feel like they're gonna do hollow stage 4's
Seems like they've been generally well received, with weight being the only common criticism
I’d cop if they do. Seems like the general evolution.
Standard-Hollow-Titanium. I’m sure they want a slow burn with this one.
Overall I’m really liking mine as is. Aesthetically and mechanically these trucks are fucking good.
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I can't help but feel like they're gonna do hollow stage 4's
Seems like they've been generally well received, with weight being the only common criticism
I’d cop if they do. Seems like the general evolution.
Standard-Hollow-Titanium. I’m sure they want a slow burn with this one.
Overall I’m really liking mine as is. Aesthetically and mechanically these trucks are fucking good.
I’m happy someone else agrees, man oh man those would be killer
Standard hollow titanium’s stage 4’s
Loving my 136 and just grabbed a pair of 146
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The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince us that our trucks didn’t matter. ;)
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I can't help but feel like they're gonna do hollow stage 4's
Seems like they've been generally well received, with weight being the only common criticism
I’d cop if they do. Seems like the general evolution.
Standard-Hollow-Titanium. I’m sure they want a slow burn with this one.
Overall I’m really liking mine as is. Aesthetically and mechanically these trucks are fucking good.
I’m happy someone else agrees, man oh man those would be killer
Standard hollow titanium’s stage 4’s
Loving my 136 and just grabbed a pair of 146
I feel like the forged plates might be a little too much, but that's just me.
Would like to see a hollow version though.
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I agree, no forged plates!
Just gc hollows with a titanium axle variant
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I gave in to the madness and dismounted my near axled AF1’s and put some Indy 159 standards on the IKP plates, used Ace bushings and a vintage GK kingpin. Nope, they just aren’t Ace. Anyone using the stage 4’s in IKP baseplates? I never tried it idk why.
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I gave in to the madness and dismounted my near axled AF1’s and put some Indy 159 standards on the IKP plates, used Ace bushings and a vintage GK kingpin. Nope, they just aren’t Ace. Anyone using the stage 4’s in IKP baseplates? I never tried it idk why.
It works fine with the IKP plates, and regular-size bushings give you a little more engagement between the kingpin and baseplate threads. I’ve been running my 4s on forged hollow plates and it’s really working for me on the Green Eagle.
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Nice, thanks man. Would you say the turning is as good as running them on the stage 4 baseplates or has the turn diminished as a result of being on stage 11 plates?
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.
One of the interesting tests I did recently was with bushing heights.
Using a slightly taller bottom bushing got normal Stage 11 trucks turning a whole lot more like the old stage / Ace type of turn, then with a low head top bushing to make everything still fit in nicely.
Anyone who has the Stage 4 trucks could use the bottom bushing from those trucks, then with whatever tops fit in any other truck baseplate / hanger combo to recreate the turn.
I know things like geometry of the trucks have a lot to do with it too, so it is not just a case of jacking up the bottom bushings and turning on a dime, but it is interesting to note.
Guessing this is also why some people put Ace bushings in other trucks to make them turn a whole lot more.
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Nice, thanks man. Would you say the turning is as good as running them on the stage 4 baseplates or has the turn diminished as a result of being on stage 11 plates?
I’m not the person to ask on this one. Instead of putting time in on the stock setup, I went straight in on the “Stage Faux” baseplate experiments and put my 215 hangers on the Stage 4 baseplates, which I haven’t set up yet.
The way I have these dialed in is a little odd, but I like it. I used some Destructo bushings I had in the toolbox (smaller than the Stage 4 bushings/maybe a hair bigger than Stage XI stock bushings). These are actually pretty nice, guessing they’re made by Sure-Grip since that seems to be who owns this iteration of the brand? I’ve got them juuust tightened down to that first thread. There’s not much resistance on the bushings, so the whole turning range is really loose and swervy, but they firm up really quick at the end and there’s almost no wheelbite.
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
(https://www.formulacrc.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/453f713a-8ffd-4499-96b4-401f7a872b0d-768x768.jpg)
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
(https://www.formulacrc.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/453f713a-8ffd-4499-96b4-401f7a872b0d-768x768.jpg)
I need to grab some of this.
my stage 4's sound like my knees feel.
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Friends, how do you stop your bushings/pivot cups from squeaking? Drives me insane and while wax works the squeak always comes back.
(https://www.formulacrc.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/453f713a-8ffd-4499-96b4-401f7a872b0d-768x768.jpg)
I need to grab some of this.
my stage 4's sound like my knees feel.
Just be careful and start with pivot cups only. Very easy to make your bushings to have basically no turning resistance at all until it wears off.
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Yeah the bushings are hardly ever the reason for the squeaking. It's most often just the pivot cup.
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With greasing any surface, remember that a little goes a very long way. You really just want to apply the thinnest layer.
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With greasing any surface, remember that a little goes a very long way. You really just want to apply the thinnest layer.
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First quick session with Stage 4s, I'm sold already, they're a keeper. Coming from forged S11s, it feels like the shortened wheelbase compensates the added weight and height. Just hoping the bushings will settle soon.
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First quick session with Stage 4s, I'm sold already, they're a keeper. Coming from forged S11s, it feels like the shortened wheelbase compensates the added weight and height. Just hoping the bushings will settle soon.
they firmed up really quick for me.
really enjoy the turn
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Is there a functional reason for the really tall top bushing? I feel like they coulda done a normal top and chopped the KP down a bit.
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Is there a functional reason for the really tall top bushing? I feel like they coulda done a normal top and chopped the KP down a bit.
If you're talking about the stage 4's they dont really have an exceptionally tall top bushing. about the same size as stage 11.
In general i would guess that the more bushing there is, the more the truck is allowed to articulate. allowing a deeper turn.
Total hypothesis, but it makes sense to me.
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Are Indy Ti's somehow more prone to axle slip? Or is something wrong with my wheels? I never had axle slip before so I am a bit confused.
Had to adjust my wheels a few times in the last 2 hours (Spitfire 52mm Conicals with Blurs Bearings).
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Is there a functional reason for the really tall top bushing? I feel like they coulda done a normal top and chopped the KP down a bit.
If you're talking about the stage 4's they dont really have an exceptionally tall top bushing. about the same size as stage 11.
In general i would guess that the more bushing there is, the more the truck is allowed to articulate. allowing a deeper turn.
Total hypothesis, but it makes sense to me.
I had to go looking for this, but they are both taller than Stage 11 bushings, with a taller kingpin to match.
Stage 11
Top 10 mm
Bottom 13 mm
Stage 4
Top 12.5 mm
Bottom 14.8 mm
Some people definitely angle grinded down the kingpins (Andrew Reynolds) and swapped out bushings, but even just using a lower top bushing will still get the same turn and more clearance.
Please accept my apologies in advance if this is redundant info, but I'm sharing here for posterity's sake in case such imagery hasn't already been propagated in this here thread.
I pulled the the bushings from a new (as in: not yet compressed) Stage IVs and tossed 'em into the ol' digi-cal.
Here's what we got...
(https://i.ibb.co/1XzFNCp/Stage-IV-Barrel.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n1PxyXV)
(https://i.ibb.co/Db7CtXL/Stage-IV-Cone.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j5LMTKH)
Make with this info what you will, and again, my sorries if this is old news, rewarmed.
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Are Indy Ti's somehow more prone to axle slip? Or is something wrong with my wheels? I never had axle slip before so I am a bit confused.
Had to adjust my wheels a few times in the last 2 hours (Spitfire 52mm Conicals with Blurs Bearings).
Not wanting to scare you but have you seen all the broken axles on Indy ti hangers in recent years?
It is a fairly well known issue, something about the ti axles just not being of quality material / have imperfections / just can't hold up, so often the axle snaps off, usually around the point where the wheel meets the hanger, or just inside the hanger.
Maybe check your trucks before doing anything else, as there are quite a few pics here on Slap and elsewhere.
Ok so my Indy Titaniums did this:
(https://i.imgur.com/AXe6JNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DBmOzyP.jpg)
Will this be warrantied if the trucks are more than 4 months old or whatever I'm seeing on the NHS website? I'm lucky I noticed before bailing.
Edit: I'm just going to contact the skate shop first
I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
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I got a few sets of the original titaniums still going strong and one pair of the new ones. Two of old sets eventually slipped after landing primo one too many times, but NHS has always replaced them.
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Is there a functional reason for the really tall top bushing? I feel like they coulda done a normal top and chopped the KP down a bit.
It actually helps keep the top washer from hitting the hanger. Stage 4s have a very narrow yoke cavity around the top bushing like Aces, so going down to a shorter kingpin/normal height top, the cup washers come very close to hitting the hanger. It works, but there’s minimal clearance.
Flat top washer solves this issue for shorter bushings if you’re worried about it.
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Oh no I don't care if the washer hits the hanger it does it on Thunders and Ventures a lot and its whatever. I just would want better KP clearance.
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Is there a functional reason for the really tall top bushing? I feel like they coulda done a normal top and chopped the KP down a bit.
If you're talking about the stage 4's they dont really have an exceptionally tall top bushing. about the same size as stage 11.
In general i would guess that the more bushing there is, the more the truck is allowed to articulate. allowing a deeper turn.
Total hypothesis, but it makes sense to me.
I had to go looking for this, but they are both taller than Stage 11 bushings, with a taller kingpin to match.
Stage 11
Top 10 mm
Bottom 13 mm
Stage 4
Top 12.5 mm
Bottom 14.8 mm
Some people definitely angle grinded down the kingpins (Andrew Reynolds) and swapped out bushings, but even just using a lower top bushing will still get the same turn and more clearance.
Expand Quote
Please accept my apologies in advance if this is redundant info, but I'm sharing here for posterity's sake in case such imagery hasn't already been propagated in this here thread.
I pulled the the bushings from a new (as in: not yet compressed) Stage IVs and tossed 'em into the ol' digi-cal.
Here's what we got...
(https://i.ibb.co/1XzFNCp/Stage-IV-Barrel.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n1PxyXV)
(https://i.ibb.co/Db7CtXL/Stage-IV-Cone.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j5LMTKH)
Make with this info what you will, and again, my sorries if this is old news, rewarmed.
Yea, I def read my own first post wrong, bigger difference than I thought. Haha.
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Are Indy Ti's somehow more prone to axle slip? Or is something wrong with my wheels? I never had axle slip before so I am a bit confused.
Had to adjust my wheels a few times in the last 2 hours (Spitfire 52mm Conicals with Blurs Bearings).
Not wanting to scare you but have you seen all the broken axles on Indy ti hangers in recent years?
It is a fairly well known issue, something about the ti axles just not being of quality material / have imperfections / just can't hold up, so often the axle snaps off, usually around the point where the wheel meets the hanger, or just inside the hanger.
Maybe check your trucks before doing anything else, as there are quite a few pics here on Slap and elsewhere.
Expand Quote
Ok so my Indy Titaniums did this:
(https://i.imgur.com/AXe6JNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DBmOzyP.jpg)
Will this be warrantied if the trucks are more than 4 months old or whatever I'm seeing on the NHS website? I'm lucky I noticed before bailing.
Edit: I'm just going to contact the skate shop first
Expand Quote
I did it again..
Second time my 144 Ti axle breaks..
First time they sent me a new set.
This is one of them.. Fuck Titanium.. 360 flip on flat.
(https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_2027117zijp.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20250253i2i.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_20244919fkl.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202436zei8t.jpg) (https://abload.de/thumb/img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=img_20230115_202411lcf1b.jpg)
Never again.
Oh well.. I also have 144 Ti's. That doesn't look good. If it keeps happening I will get a set of Forged Hollows.
Thanks Brimmo
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Been riding 144 titaniums for a while now with no issues whatsoever.
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I've had a pair of ti hangers I've ridden on and off for like 2.5 years that are great and in the meantime bent 2 Thunder solid axles.
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I have some ti 159s which I admittedly don't skate too much, but which are still perfectly straight. Still though, there's no denying that several posters here have had noted issues with the ti axled Indys, and titanium is much more prone to fracturing than chromoly, so while you might bend your steel axle, it's less likely to snap off suddenly.
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Finally got around to skating the forged hollow mids with the IKP. Thoroughly enjoyed the lowness of the board however, the trucks weigh just too much for me. Felt like skating with weights on which is helpful for some tricks but you get tired out quickly. Please make a indy 52mm with the standard hollow weight hanger and no IKP.
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Finally got around to skating the forged hollow mids with the IKP. Thoroughly enjoyed the lowness of the board however, the trucks weigh just too much for me. Felt like skating with weights on which is helpful for some tricks but you get tired out quickly. Please make a indy 52mm with the standard hollow weight hanger and no IKP.
Get some lows. I’ve a set of STG 11 Romero low hollows. They come with cast plates, but I’m fitting them with forged ones. They gonna get real low.
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Finally got around to skating the forged hollow mids with the IKP. Thoroughly enjoyed the lowness of the board however, the trucks weigh just too much for me. Felt like skating with weights on which is helpful for some tricks but you get tired out quickly. Please make a indy 52mm with the standard hollow weight hanger and no IKP.
I'd love nothing more than this truck. I feel like Indy blew a golden opportunity with their mid. A 52mm Indy is perfet. I have a set of the forged hollow mid and I really liked the feel of them, but the KP loosening on its own was a real bummer.
By what I've heard on here, sounds like Ace managed to nail the KP clearance and turn on their low truck by changing the baseplate rather than the hanger. They got better KP clearance than the regular AF1s, with no need to invert the kingpin. 49mm is too crazy for me though. I was tempted to try them with a 1/8 riser to get them to 52.
As for now, I'm back on the regular FH 144s.
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I have 3 sets of Indy trucks I ride regularly. Two are 169s, and the third is 159. The thing is, they each ride very differently.
169s I bought about a year ago: super carvy.
159s I bought about five years ago: not very carvy.
169s I bought in 2011: fuckin’ stiff as those spam emails say they can make my dick (“with just one easy trick”)
So my question is, does this have to do with different stages? And also, is there any way you can tell one stage from another by looking at them?
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I have 3 sets of Indy trucks I ride regularly. Two are 169s, and the third is 159. The thing is, they each ride very differently.
169s I bought about a year ago: super carvy.
159s I bought about five years ago: not very carvy.
169s I bought in 2011: fuckin’ stiff as those spam emails say they can make my dick (“with just one easy trick”)
So my question is, does this have to do with different stages? And also, is there any way you can tell one stage from another by looking at them?
I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings. The story is Indy improved the stock bushings when they fully moved production to China in 2019 or so. So you might have the cruddy older stock in the 159s and the newer ones in the stage 11 169s. The older 169s are likely stage 10s as the 11s came out in 2012. Stage 10s have slightly different geometry and are 53mm height instead of the more common Indy standard of 55mm. Also those bushings may have straight up fossilized if they are the same ones they came with.
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I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings...
Aha! That sounds like the answer! The bushings on the good 169s do look different than those on the 159s. I'll hafta snag a new set and try it out. Thanks!
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I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings...
Aha! That sounds like the answer! The bushings on the good 169s do look different than those on the 159s. I'll hafta snag a new set and try it out. Thanks!
Agree with @jakeumms on the bushings.
Definitely the bushing change over the years made them a whole lot more turny, but also urethane cures and hardens over time, so trying the mix and match bushings in the older trucks might make a difference too.
I fully waxed up every connecting bit of some older trucks recently - that is every facing part of pivot cup, hanger, bushing seats, washers and bushings themselves (just to see how it worked) and it made such a huge difference in how things turned so easily compared to what they were like before. Not saying this will fix everything, but it definitely changed for the better, going from a stiff feeling turn to a much more fluid feeling turn on the older trucks. Just go easy on it cause you don't want it getting messy, but it solved the squeaks and clicks too.
Differences in parts:
Older bushings - almost a poured sharp edge look to one side, slightly rounded other edge, flat face.
Newer bushings - concentric circles on the machined edge, same slightly rounded other edge, flat face.
Indy Stage 9 (from 2003) - two hollow parts (like nostrils) in baseplate with a single line cross on the front, hanger 53mm or so in height
Indy Stage 10 (from 2010) - solid baseplate, still single line cross on the front, hanger 53mm or so in height
Indy Stage 11 (from 2012) - solid baseplate, circle line round single line cross on the front, hanger 55mm in height on cast baseplates (with either solid kingpin or hollow kingpin option), 53.5mm in height on forged baseplates (always with hollow kingpin)
All sizes from 129, 139, 149, 159 and 169 during those times / stages, then 144 in 2017
From that I would guess that you have two Stage 11 sets and one earlier Stage 10 set of trucks, but the cross logo on the baseplate is the easiest make for the earlier stages.
* Almost forgot to add, no cross on the baseplates is only from 2020 or so onwards for new trucks. Most shops would have no old stock with crosses on now, but there are still a lot of sets around, so even then what you bought could have been earlier stages too, but most likely a Stage 10, then two sets of Stage 11 in more recent times.
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I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings...
Aha! That sounds like the answer! The bushings on the good 169s do look different than those on the 159s. I'll hafta snag a new set and try it out. Thanks!
Holy smokes! You were so right! I got a set of new regular indy bushings and now I'm carving around like one of those instagram bikini models. :D Thanks dudes!
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I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings...
Aha! That sounds like the answer! The bushings on the good 169s do look different than those on the 159s. I'll hafta snag a new set and try it out. Thanks!
Holy smokes! You were so right! I got a set of new regular indy bushings and now I'm carving around like one of those instagram bikini models. :D Thanks dudes!
good for ya..
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Dudes, what are these?
Obviously Indy’s. But what year/stage?
They have conical standard Orange bushings.
The hanger yoke is oriented the opposite way.
The baseplate seems lower than modern casts but still look/feel cast. Has cross. Is fairly solid. Say USA underneath.
Geometry is little different.
(https://i.ibb.co/1QrQqN8/72-A36465-35-BA-492-B-9621-F06-BD52-D751-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1QrQqN8)
(https://i.ibb.co/rM0Fr7x/F72334-BD-2201-4-C82-95-F2-8-E5-D2-CAB1413.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rM0Fr7x)
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Looks like stage 7 or 8, but can't tell which without seeing the bottom of the baseplates.
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got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.
what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.
my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.
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Looks like stage 7 or 8, but can't tell which without seeing the bottom of the baseplates.
I’ve already bolted them on ;D
The baseplates are all solid except for divot with USA stamp. These have cross logo and six holes. According to this Willie character, this makes them stage 8s.
(https://i.ibb.co/K0Y18VH/8951-B155-CFC6-4089-AAFE-1-EF8-EBD56-B01.png) (https://ibb.co/K0Y18VH)
Yay, free trucks.
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got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.
what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.
my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.
That is the most common thing with the newer ones (anything without the cross really) as the pivot cups are a harder material and often feel like or sound like they have blown out, even though they have not.
If you end up with a funny more metallic ding sound when the truck hits the ground, more so on the truck with the newer pivot cup, just switch it out for any other older pivot cup or an after market pivot cup from any of the main brands or plain generic one and it should make it sound and feel like normal.
Some people I know hate on the new trucks pretty hard, but when I switched out the newer harder pivot cups, they skate way better and feel more normal. The baseplate, the hanger, the bushings work just as well if not better, depending on your preference or opinion, but whatever they are using for pivot cups is bringing the whole truck, brand name and no cross / now diamond logo or whatever down in a way that is really such a simple fix.
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got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.
what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.
my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.
Why didn't you just swap the front truck to the back?
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got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.
what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.
my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.
was skating them in for the past 2 weeks. already got solid grooves in them before i realized they wont be breaking in the way i wanted. also swapping pivots is taking off 2 nuts total, while the whole trucks means 8 nuts. no powertools here so this was way faster.
That is the most common thing with the newer ones (anything without the cross really) as the pivot cups are a harder material and often feel like or sound like they have blown out, even though they have not.
If you end up with a funny more metallic ding sound when the truck hits the ground, more so on the truck with the newer pivot cup, just switch it out for any other older pivot cup or an after market pivot cup from any of the main brands or plain generic one and it should make it sound and feel like normal.
Some people I know hate on the new trucks pretty hard, but when I switched out the newer harder pivot cups, they skate way better and feel more normal. The baseplate, the hanger, the bushings work just as well if not better, depending on your preference or opinion, but whatever they are using for pivot cups is bringing the whole truck, brand name and no cross / now diamond logo or whatever down in a way that is really such a simple fix.
hope they fix it. i don't mind swapping to some aftermarkets. but really a truck should just function as they supposed to do when they come stock.
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hope they fix it. i don't mind swapping to some aftermarkets. but really a truck should just function as they supposed to do when they come stock.
100% Agreed!
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got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.
what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.
my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.
was skating them in for the past 2 weeks. already got solid grooves in them before i realized they wont be breaking in the way i wanted. also swapping pivots is taking off 2 nuts total, while the whole trucks means 8 nuts. no powertools here so this was way faster.
Oh ok that makes sense. Don't wanna compromise the grooves.
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congrats to josef newgarden
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What’s the long-term consensus about the Mids? I know there was initial consternation about the weight, kingpin clearance, kingpin “sticking” on feeble/smiths/etc., and the kingpin loosening up. How much of that seems to be legitimate complaints, or just initial fuss over them just being a bit different? I ride forged, and was considering trying Mids, but def didn’t seem like they had good initial reviews.
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What’s the long-term consensus about the Mids? I know there was initial consternation about the weight, kingpin clearance, kingpin “sticking” on feeble/smiths/etc., and the kingpin loosening up. How much of that seems to be legitimate complaints, or just initial fuss over them just being a bit different? I ride forged, and was considering trying Mids, but def didn’t seem like they had good initial reviews.
From the truck poll, I would hazard a guess that almost everyone who has tried them has either gone back to what they were on before, or moved on to something different.
Last I saw there were zero people on the regular mids and three on the forged mids, out of currently 345 total votes.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=126504.0
Kingpin coming loose is a permanent issue - nothing they can do will fix it, besides someone using their own addition of locktite or similar product.
The height was key, but the weight put off a lot more people, so I think using the forged hollow standard height 53.5 mm was preferred to the mid 52 mm that was heavier and had issues.
Nothing wrong with giving them a shot though, because I know there is a market for that sort of lower truck, but most people just found they were more trouble than they were worth.
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What’s the long-term consensus about the Mids? I know there was initial consternation about the weight, kingpin clearance, kingpin “sticking” on feeble/smiths/etc., and the kingpin loosening up. How much of that seems to be legitimate complaints, or just initial fuss over them just being a bit different? I ride forged, and was considering trying Mids, but def didn’t seem like they had good initial reviews.
From the truck poll, I would hazard a guess that almost everyone who has tried them has either gone back to what they were on before, or moved on to something different.
Last I saw there were zero people on the regular mids and three on the forged mids, out of currently 345 total votes.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=126504.0
Kingpin coming loose is a permanent issue - nothing they can do will fix it, besides someone using their own addition of locktite or similar product.
The height was key, but the weight put off a lot more people, so I think using the forged hollow standard height 53.5 mm was preferred to the mid 52 mm that was heavier and had issues.
Nothing wrong with giving them a shot though, because I know there is a market for that sort of lower truck, but most people just found they were more trouble than they were worth.
Duly noted. Thanks.
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Tiago and Carlos still ride the mids and I see them a decent amount locally in SD, but the TM is also here so that could be part of it.
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Switched back from Ace AF1 Hollows to Indy and I'ma stay I think. Ace's with stock bushings were unridable loose for my 210lbs, liked them with hard bushings but they were almost too stable for transition. The turn is odd, really stable on center, too stable. They turn super sharp but you have to kinda force it.
Got 169 forged hollows on an Anti-Hero 9" orange eagle and couldn't be happier. More responsive quicker turning but still lots stable. Just felt natural and easy. They were slower grinding on metal coping than the AF1's but prob because they're brand new.
If you get annoyed how the stupid sharp top washer cuts up the bushing on Indy's, put in Ace top washers. Doesn't cut the bushing and makes the trucks feel better. I used to run the blue Indy bushings but with the Ace washers I'm nut flush on stock bushings and they're fantastic. Makes them a bit firmer and also more progressive, they firm up more before wheelbite.
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Came across an old setup of mine. Must be from ~2011? Wasn't skating much during this time, thus the goofy big wheels and risers.
(https://i.imgur.com/zHltUAh.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ee0JjMB.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OOmvfJY.jpeg)
Red conical bushings. Must be Stage 10?
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(https://media.giphy.com/media/etrFEI3lUhodijZ2Gk/giphy.gif)
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What’s the long-term consensus about the Mids? I know there was initial consternation about the weight, kingpin clearance, kingpin “sticking” on feeble/smiths/etc., and the kingpin loosening up. How much of that seems to be legitimate complaints, or just initial fuss over them just being a bit different? I ride forged, and was considering trying Mids, but def didn’t seem like they had good initial reviews.
Bought a pair for kicks. Love a gimmick and to me it’s all it was. The IKP wasn’t enough to warrant me getting another set. I’d cop another set if they were on super sale. All other aspects of the truck are what you’d come to expect from an Indy. The weight you can even tell a difference between a standard IMO.
Now hollows or the stage 4 reissues I would continue to buy over the standard or titanium model.
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If you get annoyed how the stupid sharp top washer cuts up the bushing on Indy's, put in Ace top washers. Doesn't cut the bushing and makes the trucks feel better. I used to run the blue Indy bushings but with the Ace washers I'm nut flush on stock bushings and they're fantastic. Makes them a bit firmer and also more progressive, they firm up more before wheelbite.
I was going crazy about my bushings and I used it use the blue cylinder bushings too but it seemed too linear if a turn. I did the same exact thing with Ace washers but stick indy bushings. game changer
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Came across an old setup of mine. Must be from ~2011? Wasn't skating much during this time, thus the goofy big wheels and risers.
Red conical bushings. Must be Stage 10?
Ha yeah, so good!!!
I think I still have one from a set I had - went and found it.
So like you, maybe that same year, I had a set of those, almost when they first came out but I didn't realise, so some people were tripping on them, the black forged baseplate with a big X (Stage 10) with the solid kingpin, the same graphic on the silver hanger too, red conical bushings, just like this one.
Kingpin clearance was pretty minimal on almost all the Indy trucks up until Stage 11, but they were lower in height so it worked for a more tech setup, rather than my usual bowl board type of thing, which I guess is why this one is still in such good condition too.
* I see you have risers on yours, which would make sense. I usually put thin rubber risers on the other standard trucks with 56 mm wheels.
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I said this the other day, but I found some Stage 10s on a waterlogged complete at the thrift store, so for $15 of course I had to give it a shot. I thought they were terrible. I can see why that Stage lasted a few years and we are on like year 12 of the Stage 11. Fortunately they were anodized purple so I was able to sell them on eBay for $60.
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Came across an old setup of mine. Must be from ~2011? Wasn't skating much during this time, thus the goofy big wheels and risers.
(https://i.imgur.com/zHltUAh.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ee0JjMB.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OOmvfJY.jpeg)
Red conical bushings. Must be Stage 10?
Had these same trucks! Didn’t like them. Didn’t seem to turn much. Stepped away from skating too around this time. Put these back on and didn’t feel good when I came back. Decided to get new everything when I started skating like five years ago and the stage 11’s were a rebirth. Sometimes getting new gear solves some issues.
Odd to hear about the crossless indies having issues. I’m gonna try to score some stage 4s soon. Next time I’m in a shop or something. Don’t have much need but just wanna try them.
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If you get annoyed how the stupid sharp top washer cuts up the bushing on Indy's, put in Ace top washers. Doesn't cut the bushing and makes the trucks feel better. I used to run the blue Indy bushings but with the Ace washers I'm nut flush on stock bushings and they're fantastic. Makes them a bit firmer and also more progressive, they firm up more before wheelbite.
I was going crazy about my bushings and I used it use the blue cylinder bushings too but it seemed too linear if a turn. I did the same exact thing with Ace washers but stick indy bushings. game changer
Right?! It's nuts how much of a difference a frickin washer makes, but Ace washer on stock bushings is just perfection.
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Came across an old setup of mine. Must be from ~2011? Wasn't skating much during this time, thus the goofy big wheels and risers.
Red conical bushings. Must be Stage 10?
Odd to hear about the crossless indies having issues. I’m gonna try to score some stage 4s soon. Next time I’m in a shop or something. Don’t have much need but just wanna try them.
Yeah the Stage 11 has been great and I never looked back, even though I still have quite a few sets of Stage 9 and 10, as well as some earlier stages.
Edit: The 9 and 10 had the same geometry, just the solid baseplate in the Stage 10, was what I was meaning, different to the earlier stages and very different to the Stage 11 trucks geometry.
I used to (and still do) put the aftermarket bushings in with the low heads so I can get the trucks a bit more turny as well as have better kingpin clearance, but we would often cut down stock bushings too.
For anyone who wanted a firmer lower Indy, the Stage 9 or 10 trucks are maybe more interesting than the mids, but that is just my take on it, from comparing a few sets.
Any lower truck usually has less kingpin clearance, but these older Indy stages have minimal to none in the kingpin clearance department.
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I just bought a set of 169 stage 11 and man the one truck is not staying straight. I mean it wants to point to 2 o’clock instead of 3.
Is this a bushing issue? I was thinking of loosening everything, resetting the bushings and just retightening them. I ride them “loose” for being a big guy. But man if I’m not standing on my board and push it, the board almost makes a hard right turn.
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I just bought a set of 169 stage 11 and man the one truck is not staying straight. I mean it wants to point to 2 o’clock instead of 3.
Is this a bushing issue? I was thinking of loosening everything, resetting the bushings and just retightening them. I ride them “loose” for being a big guy. But man if I’m not standing on my board and push it, the board almost makes a hard right turn.
Bushings take a while to break in. Just leave them alone and you'll get better rebound after a some solid carving and turning.
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I just bought a set of 169 stage 11 and man the one truck is not staying straight. I mean it wants to point to 2 o’clock instead of 3.
Is this a bushing issue? I was thinking of loosening everything, resetting the bushings and just retightening them. I ride them “loose” for being a big guy. But man if I’m not standing on my board and push it, the board almost makes a hard right turn.
Are the trucks square on the deck, deck bolt holes straight, deck not warped and just the hanger you can see is on an angle or something similar?
As said, brand new bushings might take a bit of time to wear in, usually just having a gentle roll around not pressing down on either side a whole lot to start with and getting things worn in more so than setting up a board and going hard on it right from go.
When you push down on one wheel, does the hanger bounce back to where it was / back to middle or does it stay to one side?
That is more the general bushing test, but if you have tightened them down or they are staying to one side, take everything apart and putting it back together with the kingpin nut flush is a good start.
Pics also help a whole lot to get a point across.
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I just bought a set of 169 stage 11 and man the one truck is not staying straight. I mean it wants to point to 2 o’clock instead of 3.
Is this a bushing issue? I was thinking of loosening everything, resetting the bushings and just retightening them. I ride them “loose” for being a big guy. But man if I’m not standing on my board and push it, the board almost makes a hard right turn.
Bushings take a while to break in. Just leave them alone and you'll get better rebound after a some solid carving and turning.
Yeah that was my thought. Just keep ridding them and see if they break in more.
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I just bought a set of 169 stage 11 and man the one truck is not staying straight. I mean it wants to point to 2 o’clock instead of 3.
Is this a bushing issue? I was thinking of loosening everything, resetting the bushings and just retightening them. I ride them “loose” for being a big guy. But man if I’m not standing on my board and push it, the board almost makes a hard right turn.
Are the trucks square on the deck, deck bolt holes straight, deck not warped and just the hanger you can see is on an angle or something similar?
As said, brand new bushings might take a bit of time to wear in, usually just having a gentle roll around not pressing down on either side a whole lot to start with and getting things worn in more so than setting up a board and going hard on it right from go.
When you push down on one wheel, does the hanger bounce back to where it was / back to middle or does it stay to one side?
That is more the general bushing test, but if you have tightened them down or they are staying to one side, take everything apart and putting it back together with the kingpin nut flush is a good start.
Pics also help a whole lot to get a point across.
The base plate seems square. I went on vacation so I don’t have the board with me to take a pic. But when I get back I will. It seemed like they kindpin wasn’t centered on the hanger when I was looking at it.
Like I said above I’ll ride them for a few more sessions and just try to break them in. Definitely not doing anything crazy anymore so it is slappys and board and nose slide and manuals.
Thanks for the tips
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I’ve had a little search around but can’t find anything, does anyone have the effective wheelbase on the Stage 4’s in comparison to Stage 11 Standards or Ace Classic/AF1? Wondering whether these will suit what I’m after.
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I’ve had a little search around but can’t find anything, does anyone have the effective wheelbase on the Stage 4’s in comparison to Stage 11 Standards or Ace Classic/AF1? Wondering whether these will suit what I’m after.
Did you have 215s at all?
I recall someone having some and they said they were the same everything, only shorter hangers.
I could get the set out I have but they feel like they are the same as the other Stage 11 in that regard, just with taller bushings, but if they are different, it is very little.
When I had a chat to the guy behind the counter at a shop that had them recently we compared them to other Stage 11 and I think he said they were the same in every way, when he had them both up against something - that is to say the height, the point of axle (wheelbase) and the other measurable factors.
Anyone else who has them or has compared them could give a better assessment though.
* Here in AU quite a few shops have them now, including OCD, Fasttimes (where I saw them) and a number of other independent shops as well. No pun intended.
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I’ve had a little search around but can’t find anything, does anyone have the effective wheelbase on the Stage 4’s in comparison to Stage 11 Standards or Ace Classic/AF1? Wondering whether these will suit what I’m after.
There's some info on here somewhere from when they first hit.
Edit* I believe they shrink the WB about 1/8" more than AF1s.... so close to the classics...
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I’ve had a little search around but can’t find anything, does anyone have the effective wheelbase on the Stage 4’s in comparison to Stage 11 Standards or Ace Classic/AF1? Wondering whether these will suit what I’m after.
There's some info on here somewhere from when they first hit.
Edit* I believe they shrink the WB about 1/8" more than AF1s.... so close to the classics...
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=108580.0
I had been going by this thread at one point but it looks like it hasn't been updated in a while. For eg. it was news to me that AF1s measure differently than Classics
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I’ve had a little search around but can’t find anything, does anyone have the effective wheelbase on the Stage 4’s in comparison to Stage 11 Standards or Ace Classic/AF1? Wondering whether these will suit what I’m after.
Did you have 215s at all?
I recall someone having some and they said they were the same everything, only shorter hangers.
I could get the set out I have but they feel like they are the same as the other Stage 11 in that regard, just with taller bushings, but if they are different, it is very little.
When I had a chat to the guy behind the counter at a shop that had them recently we compared them to other Stage 11 and I think he said they were the same in every way, when he had them both up against something - that is to say the height, the point of axle (wheelbase) and the other measurable factors.
Anyone else who has them or has compared them could give a better assessment though.
* Here in AU quite a few shops have them now, including OCD, Fasttimes (where I saw them) and a number of other independent shops as well. No pun intended.
I do have 215s, but the updated ones that are marketed as Stage 11. I don’t know whether that means they share the same wb as stage 11s though, but I think I’m actually using the baseplates from them on my 159s and never noticed a difference from my old plates.
From the looks of it the Stage 4s will be closer to Ace Classics. Might just have to buy and measure myself.
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I put Af1s and Indy stage 4 on the same deck and the wheel bite marks are further to the middle with the Stage 4s. Tighter wheelbase and tighter turn.
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Ok guys, so I have an urge to Frankenstein some indies, let me know what y’all think,
I have some stage 4s, I want to swap the six hole baseplate, with a forged hollow baseplate. Sounds good yes, but I am concerned I’m going to fuck the geometry.
Thoughts?
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Ok guys, so I have an urge to Frankenstein some indies, let me know what y’all think,
I have some stage 4s, I want to swap the six hole baseplate, with a forged hollow baseplate. Sounds good yes, but I am concerned I’m going to fuck the geometry.
Thoughts?
that 6 hole baseplate does look really bad
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Ok guys, so I have an urge to Frankenstein some indies, let me know what y’all think,
I have some stage 4s, I want to swap the six hole baseplate, with a forged hollow baseplate. Sounds good yes, but I am concerned I’m going to fuck the geometry.
Thoughts?
You will indeed mess with the geo. Maybe it will feel good to you. I'm sure it could work but you won't have the same turn.
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Ok guys, so I have an urge to Frankenstein some indies, let me know what y’all think,
I have some stage 4s, I want to swap the six hole baseplate, with a forged hollow baseplate. Sounds good yes, but I am concerned I’m going to fuck the geometry.
Thoughts?
You will indeed mess with the geo. Maybe it will feel good to you. I'm sure it could work but you won't have the same turn.
I think the height of the bottom bushing is key there, so if you kept the bottom bushing in, or even put Stage 11 hangers on they will turn more like the Stage 4 reissues.
Tried it with this example, but as per the pic, the Stage 4 baseplate has a taller kingpin, so even if you had a taller bottom bushing, like the red one compared to the orange one, you can still have the same geometry. Just cut down the top bushing if it doesn't fit to your liking on any other shorter kingpin, or to give more clearance anyway.
(https://i.ibb.co/jf1RwRG/Indy-stage-4-comparison-baseplates.jpg) (https://ibb.co/02dt9tZ)
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Ok guys, so I have an urge to Frankenstein some indies, let me know what y’all think,
I have some stage 4s, I want to swap the six hole baseplate, with a forged hollow baseplate. Sounds good yes, but I am concerned I’m going to fuck the geometry.
Thoughts?
nah
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Expand Quote
Ok guys, so I have an urge to Frankenstein some indies, let me know what y’all think,
I have some stage 4s, I want to swap the six hole baseplate, with a forged hollow baseplate. Sounds good yes, but I am concerned I’m going to fuck the geometry.
Thoughts?
If you get bigger stage 11s they all come with the 6-holer.
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Ok guys, so I have an urge to Frankenstein some indies, let me know what y’all think,
I have some stage 4s, I want to swap the six hole baseplate, with a forged hollow baseplate. Sounds good yes, but I am concerned I’m going to fuck the geometry.
Thoughts?
If you get bigger stage 11s they all come with the 6-holer.
Forged are four hole all the way to 169, though I can't say I've ever even noticed until this thread...
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Ok guys, so I have an urge to Frankenstein some indies, let me know what y’all think,
I have some stage 4s, I want to swap the six hole baseplate, with a forged hollow baseplate. Sounds good yes, but I am concerned I’m going to fuck the geometry.
Thoughts?
If you get bigger stage 11s they all come with the 6-holer.
Forged are four hole all the way to 169, though I can't say I've ever even noticed until this thread...
Yeah I didn't really pay that much attention to the 4 / 6 hole options either, but the easiest way to remember is this for the current Stage 11 trucks:
Forged baseplates are only ever 4 holes, cast can be 4 or 6 depending on the size.
4 hole - 129, 139, 149
6 hole - 109, 159, 169, 215
Earlier trucks all had six hole baseplates from 1993, so Stage 7 and 8 Indy, only 4 hole on Stage 9 and 10, then back to a mix for Stage 11.
Stage 4 reissues are all 6 holes.
Might be a bit of useless info / too much info, but I find it interesting that they did this, mainly to cater to the old baseplate options for the older / vintage boards that people run in the small size (109) or the bigger sizes (159 and up) from what I heard.
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What’s the general consensus of upgrading the bushings/ pivot cups on stage 11 hollows? Riptide all the way?
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I’m up to my fourth(?) iteration of Bones Bushings and riptide cups and I can’t complain
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What’s the general consensus of upgrading the bushings/ pivot cups on stage 11 hollows? Riptide all the way?
I put Riptide pivots in and kept the stock bushings. Works well.
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What’s the general consensus of upgrading the bushings/ pivot cups on stage 11 hollows? Riptide all the way?
I don’t understand what advantage soft polyurethane offers over harder injection molded plastics. I put in Riptides a few years ago and I felt like my trucks skated worse. I say run ‘em stock.
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I 100% agree I thought Riptides made the turn mushier/less snap back and they have completely exploded on a few friends that had them.
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What’s the general consensus of upgrading the bushings/ pivot cups on stage 11 hollows? Riptide all the way?
Depends on what you’re going for and how much you weigh. For reference, I’m 180 lbs. here’s my impressions on the on the ones I’ve tried:
Ace low bushings:
More stable than the stock bushings while also providing a better turn. Compared to my AF1s, I have to put more weight into the Indys to get the same turn, where I can be more relaxed and light on my feet with the AF1s. Overall, very well balanced.
Independent 92a blue conical bushings:
Less stable on center than stock bushings, but the turn is amazing. You get really nice deep and responsive turns with a good snap back to center. They turn even better than my AF1s with less effort. They are slightly taller than stock, so I run them without a bottom washer to keep the stock geometry. No bottom washer also contributes to the deeper turn. I’m not great at powerslides, but I’ve always found them easier and better on this setup. These are my favorite bushings I’ve tried in Indys.
Independent 90a orange conical bushings:
Similar experience to the 92a blue conicals, but less stable all around. They didn’t snap back to center like the blues and wheelbite is more of a threat. If you weigh less than me, you will probably have the amazing experience that I have with the blues.
Bones medium bushings:
It’s been a while since I’ve used them, but I remember them being stable while greatly improving the turn. They’re expensive and most people blow them out within a month. The last set I had lasted a few months before I noticed any significant wear.
Riptide pivot cups:
The main thing I didn’t like about them was that they have a dampening effect that makes your board feel waterlogged. I think they also reduce stability more than they improve the turn. I’d only recommend them if you’re one of those people that likes your trucks super loose. They’re also expensive and I blew mine out after about two months. My stock pivot cups lasted about a year.
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I’m glad I’m not the only one with less than stellar experience with the riptide pivot cups. A lot of people speak highly of them but I was disappointed as soon as I put them in. They felt mushy and made the turn worse IMO. The “center” part of stable on center seemed way smaller with them installed (I hope that made sense).
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What’s the general consensus of upgrading the bushings/ pivot cups on stage 11 hollows? Riptide all the way?
I have never had Riptide anything, although I did see them once or twice a while back and have looked at them online, but no shops around here carry them and I haven't found the need to get something for $20 that I can get for $1 and still do a great job - reference to the DLX or generic pivot cups many shops have, no packaging, simple black material, hold up well for what they are, etc.
Not doubting the feel of something like Riptide products, so for those who have got them and love them, that's great for you.
People have definitely noticed that the newer Indy trucks of any version seem to have harder pivot cups that almost make the sound of broken through pivot cups, that metal on metal sound, that I have noticed on some newer Indy trucks I have too, so although it is not the end of the world, I am aware of it and changing out the pivot cups definitely helps there.
The newer Indy bushings seem to work a whole lot better, feeling way softer, but of course if that is not to your liking, then changing them out for something else is always going to be better, eg slightly more firm 92 duro, which still turn and are comfortable to skate for me, but I have left a few boards set up with the stock everything just to see how they go. It is winter here right now, so they do feel pretty good for what I am skating anyway, a bit colder so bushings are going to feel a bit firmer and I am not skating half as much as in the summer months too.
Just to see, I would set them up stock first and feel them out, because they do feel a bit different to the older versions of the same trucks, maybe better to some, maybe not as good to others. As to modifications to the parts, I guess it comes down to how much they vary from your other trucks, Film or Ace you have on those boards?
Indy felt so good overall to me, but after a few sessions on Ace trucks, I almost felt like my usual Indy trucks were a bit sluggish on the turns, which was surprising, but I am used to both now. For some people, going to Indy from Ace is like a step down in the turn, but there are other things that make them work well overall, more so just how they power through everything else, but that is all personal preference.
I should have asked first before everything else, did you get a new set or are you setting up some older ones?
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I'm using 92 barrels and they're great. They firmed up after a couple sessions and reduce wheelbite but don't really hurt the Indy turn. In lots of trucks harder bushings aren't much fun to ride but these are.
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What’s the general consensus of upgrading the bushings/ pivot cups on stage 11 hollows? Riptide all the way?
Only skated Indy for the last 12 years and tried different Indy duro, Bones medium hard, and one pair of Doh-dohs
On my Stage 11s (hollows and non hollows) I've enjoyed aftermarket orange conical and barrel. I prefer conical more, as it gives me an optimal turn the barrel doesn't, while also giving me reliable snap back to center. Red and white were too soft for me. Red was inconsistent with being its turn/snapback. White was better for a cruiser.
Bones are nice, definitely don't like them more than Indy on Indy trucks. When I was younger Bones always felt like the truth, but I don't think they're as good as we all cracked them up to be growing up. Doh dohs were weird. Would never ride them again.
Never tried riptide, so no comment
Aftermarket pivot cups from XYZ brands are significantly better than the "China" Stage 11 pivot cups. I had pivot cups blow out within 2 weeks on one set :/ Don't recall if I tried Indy aftermarket pivot cups, Thunder pivot cups, or some other brand from a skateshop I got them (for free) from.
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I'm using 92 barrels and they're great. They firmed up after a couple sessions and reduce wheelbite but don't really hurt the Indy turn. In lots of trucks harder bushings aren't much fun to ride but these are.
You riding Indy's right now?
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Yes. I have ridden standards a bit this Spring. On my current deck I setup cast plates then decided to try forged plates on it spur of the moment and it's been a great setup. Using harder bushings cured most problems I had with Indy's.
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Anyone know the exact distance between the holes on the truck base which have the six holes instead of four?
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Anyone know the exact distance between the holes on the truck base which have the six holes instead of four?
Almost positive it's 3/8" but I got that off of Brimmo so they probably know for sure
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Anyone know the exact distance between the holes on the truck base which have the six holes instead of four?
Appreciate that. Thinking about picking up a deck that's a little shorter than I like and wanted to use the baseplate to double drill and wanted to make sure I had the correct spacing.
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Yes. I have ridden standards a bit this Spring. On my current deck I setup cast plates then decided to try forged plates on it spur of the moment and it's been a great setup. Using harder bushings cured most problems I had with Indy's.
I actually just started riding my forged hollows and bought some of the hard black bushings and now I feel like sticking with them. They are really stable when you set up for stuff but still have a great turn.
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If you look at a lot of pros who ride Indys a lot of them crank their kingpins more than you'd think, so I stand to reason they could just as well use harder bushings and its not super weird to need to tighten Indys a bit. I saw a recent photo of Tom Knox's board with 3 threads showing on his rear truck and 2 on his front. From my experience going orange to blues was a difference of 1.5-2 threads for same tightness. He could likely go to blacks and have the nut still not flush.
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If you look at a lot of pros who ride Indys a lot of them crank their kingpins more than you'd think, so I stand to reason they could just as well use harder bushings and its not super weird to need to tighten Indys a bit. I saw a recent photo of Tom Knox's board with 3 threads showing on his rear truck and 2 on his front. From my experience going orange to blues was a difference of 1.5-2 threads for same tightness. He could likely go to blacks and have the nut still not flush.
Pros don't give a shit about this stuff. They are just going to run whatever shows up in the box hah
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If you look at a lot of pros who ride Indys a lot of them crank their kingpins more than you'd think, so I stand to reason they could just as well use harder bushings and its not super weird to need to tighten Indys a bit. I saw a recent photo of Tom Knox's board with 3 threads showing on his rear truck and 2 on his front. From my experience going orange to blues was a difference of 1.5-2 threads for same tightness. He could likely go to blacks and have the nut still not flush.
Pros don't give a shit about this stuff. They are just going to run whatever shows up in the box hah
I definitely get this impression as well. I love watching the pro setup vids where they barely know anything about what they're riding... "Yeah, these are uhhh... 54's I think?"... "I run three bolts because I uh, lost one"... "I switched to 169's because they sent me the wrong size"... "This is an 8.25 I think?... Wheelbase? No idea"...
And then you look closely at their trucks and the bushings are absolutely destroyed, cut to shit, cracking, oozing over the mangled washers...
I wish I could be more like that... But no, back to shopping for wheels I don't need.
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Anyone know the exact distance between the holes on the truck base which have the six holes instead of four?
Yep, the "cheap and easy" way to drill out a board 3/8" with the six hole baseplates. Usually it is just enough when drilling in or out to not change things too much, but give a good amount of difference to add or remove 3/8" to the wheelbase, or 3/4" if you do both, as I had done on some super big long boards with excessive wheelbase lengths.
The Chems kit has 3/8" spacing option and 1/4" spacing option if you are super keen, which is in some ways a whole lot easier and really makes sure there is zero chance of messing it up, but anyone without the Chems kit can still do it with a bit of patience and get the truck straight using the six hole baseplate method.
This was the one I was referring to:
https://www.chemsfb.com/product/full-metal-wheelbase-mod-tool
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If you look at a lot of pros who ride Indys a lot of them crank their kingpins more than you'd think, so I stand to reason they could just as well use harder bushings and its not super weird to need to tighten Indys a bit. I saw a recent photo of Tom Knox's board with 3 threads showing on his rear truck and 2 on his front. From my experience going orange to blues was a difference of 1.5-2 threads for same tightness. He could likely go to blacks and have the nut still not flush.
Pros don't give a shit about this stuff. They are just going to run whatever shows up in the box hah
I definitely get this impression as well. I love watching the pro setup vids where they barely know anything about what they're riding... "Yeah, these are uhhh... 54's I think?"... "I run three bolts because I uh, lost one"... "I switched to 169's because they sent me the wrong size"... "This is an 8.25 I think?... Wheelbase? No idea"...
And then you look closely at their trucks and the bushings are absolutely destroyed, cut to shit, cracking, oozing over the mangled washers...
I wish I could be more like that... But no, back to shopping for wheels I don't need.
Andrew Reynolds definitely gives a shit. If you watch setup videos a lot of pros swap bushings, crank their shit, and tweak their trucks. Lots don't too, but over generalizing isn't super accurate. They're not Slap level madness but they can get into stuff more than you'd assume.
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If you look at a lot of pros who ride Indys a lot of them crank their kingpins more than you'd think, so I stand to reason they could just as well use harder bushings and its not super weird to need to tighten Indys a bit. I saw a recent photo of Tom Knox's board with 3 threads showing on his rear truck and 2 on his front. From my experience going orange to blues was a difference of 1.5-2 threads for same tightness. He could likely go to blacks and have the nut still not flush.
Pros don't give a shit about this stuff. They are just going to run whatever shows up in the box hah
I definitely get this impression as well. I love watching the pro setup vids where they barely know anything about what they're riding... "Yeah, these are uhhh... 54's I think?"... "I run three bolts because I uh, lost one"... "I switched to 169's because they sent me the wrong size"... "This is an 8.25 I think?... Wheelbase? No idea"...
And then you look closely at their trucks and the bushings are absolutely destroyed, cut to shit, cracking, oozing over the mangled washers...
I wish I could be more like that... But no, back to shopping for wheels I don't need.
Andrew Reynolds definitely gives a shit. If you watch setup videos a lot of pros swap bushings, crank their shit, and tweak their trucks. Lots don't too, but over generalizing isn't super accurate. They're not Slap level madness but they can get into stuff more than you'd assume.
Oh for sure, wasn't meaning to bulk all pro's in there, just genuinely entertaining to see how unimportant it is to so many of them. Which is cool, very zen that it's about the act, not the gear for a them. Also speaks to how skilled they are that they can jump on whatever and kill it, when I can barely Ollie for the first ten minutes if I drop ¾" in wheelbase...
I have no doubt that pros run the gamut from slapping together whatever their spono sends them, right up to Ben Degros/Slap level madness.
My main hobbies over the years have been cycling, skiing and audio, where we obsess over the tiniest most insignificant differences: grams, millimeters, degrees, tire pressures, waxes and edge angles etc. and audio... my god, you want to talk minutiae... whole nother order of magnitude...
You know what is rampant in those hobbies? Gear snobbery, elitism and gatekeeping. Sucks the fun out big time.
Compared to those worlds, it's actually pretty jarring how little most skaters (Slap excluded) know/care to know about skateboard setup, but no judgement, it's about the act and that's awesome. I've never participated in a sport with less gear snobbery or elitism. Nobody gives a flying fuck what you're riding and it's fantastic.
Skating is cool in that you can not give a shit, ride a clapped out setup and still rip, or obsess over the details, tune and tweak and both are fine, both work, both are accepted.
Dang, that was some ted talks bullshit, back to trucks!
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If you look at a lot of pros who ride Indys a lot of them crank their kingpins more than you'd think, so I stand to reason they could just as well use harder bushings and its not super weird to need to tighten Indys a bit. I saw a recent photo of Tom Knox's board with 3 threads showing on his rear truck and 2 on his front. From my experience going orange to blues was a difference of 1.5-2 threads for same tightness. He could likely go to blacks and have the nut still not flush.
Pros don't give a shit about this stuff. They are just going to run whatever shows up in the box hah
I definitely get this impression as well. I love watching the pro setup vids where they barely know anything about what they're riding... "Yeah, these are uhhh... 54's I think?"... "I run three bolts because I uh, lost one"... "I switched to 169's because they sent me the wrong size"... "This is an 8.25 I think?... Wheelbase? No idea"...
And then you look closely at their trucks and the bushings are absolutely destroyed, cut to shit, cracking, oozing over the mangled washers...
I wish I could be more like that... But no, back to shopping for wheels I don't need.
Andrew Reynolds definitely gives a shit. If you watch setup videos a lot of pros swap bushings, crank their shit, and tweak their trucks. Lots don't too, but over generalizing isn't super accurate. They're not Slap level madness but they can get into stuff more than you'd assume.
Oh for sure, wasn't meaning to bulk all pro's in there, just genuinely entertaining to see how unimportant it is to so many of them. Which is cool, very zen that it's about the act, not the gear for a them. Also speaks to how skilled they are that they can jump on whatever and kill it, when I can barely Ollie for the first ten minutes if I drop ¾" in wheelbase...
I have no doubt that pros run the gamut from slapping together whatever their spono sends them, right up to Ben Degros/Slap level madness.
My main hobbies over the years have been cycling, skiing and audio, where we obsess over the tiniest most insignificant differences: grams, millimeters, degrees, tire pressures, waxes and edge angles etc. and audio... my god, you want to talk minutiae... whole nother order of magnitude...
You know what is rampant in those hobbies? Gear snobbery, elitism and gatekeeping. Sucks the fun out big time.
Compared to those worlds, it's actually pretty jarring how little most skaters (Slap excluded) know/care to know about skateboard setup, but no judgement, it's about the act and that's awesome. I've never participated in a sport with less gear snobbery or elitism. Nobody gives a flying fuck what you're riding and it's fantastic.
Skating is cool in that you can not give a shit, ride a clapped out setup and still rip, or obsess over the details, tune and tweak and both are fine, both work, both are accepted.
Dang, that was some ted talks bullshit, back to trucks!
One guy I skate with, and he really rips up the place whenever he’s around, can skate the same width board but totally switch up lengths and wheelbases. He can go from a 14,25” straight back to a 15” WB, and not seem phased at all. I don’t he knows or care at all.
I love that too about skating.
Before going back to school I used to work as a moped mechanic at a shop that specialises in high end road bicycles and mopeds.
And we would have these guys with their shaved legs in lycra tights fretting over literally grams of bicycle gears, while being +250 lbs.
But here I am…. 249 lbs. Disassembling my trucks every three weeks. Making sure every bearing spins. Battling wheelbite with different duro bushings and cast plates.
;D ;D ;D ;D
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Woah, thanks for all the advice you Indy heads, I should probably reply to all of you, but it will probably take a page! Maybe I’ll just run em standard and the revisit all of your advice once they’ve broken in (and if I don’t like them).
I bought them fairly recently, but it will be first venture back into Indy territory in a long time
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Anyone know the exact distance between the holes on the truck base which have the six holes instead of four?
Yep, the "cheap and easy" way to drill out a board 3/8" with the six hole baseplates. Usually it is just enough when drilling in or out to not change things too much, but give a good amount of difference to add or remove 3/8" to the wheelbase, or 3/4" if you do both, as I had done on some super big long boards with excessive wheelbase lengths.
The Chems kit has 3/8" spacing option and 1/4" spacing option if you are super keen, which is in some ways a whole lot easier and really makes sure there is zero chance of messing it up, but anyone without the Chems kit can still do it with a bit of patience and get the truck straight using the six hole baseplate method.
This was the one I was referring to:
https://www.chemsfb.com/product/full-metal-wheelbase-mod-tool
Appreciate the feedback!!
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My $0.02: 145 lbs here, Indy Forged Hollows with the stock orange bushings feel pretty much perfect. Also, I see no reason to change the stock pivot cups. They seem just great.
To summarize: seems like I need to tinker a lot less with Indys as opposed to Aces which I rode before going back to Indys.
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My $0.02: 145 lbs here, Indy Forged Hollows with the stock orange bushings feel pretty much perfect. Also, I see no reason to change the stock pivot cups. They seem just great.
To summarize: seems like I need to tinker a lot less with Indys as opposed to Aces which I rode before going back to Indys.
Same, but for Stage 4s. Hassle-free so far. Had same experience with Stage 11s as well.
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My $0.02: 145 lbs here, Indy Forged Hollows with the stock orange bushings feel pretty much perfect. Also, I see no reason to change the stock pivot cups. They seem just great.
To summarize: seems like I need to tinker a lot less with Indys as opposed to Aces which I rode before going back to Indys.
Yep, same here, except I'm riding standards. Stock everything, stock tightness, just ride 'em and grind 'em. They feel great as is. (175 lbs here)
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I bought a pack of 10 Mini Logo pivot cups for $10 and use them when a stock pivot cup gets blown out. I can't tell the difference between different pivot cups unless one is blown out and causing problems.
They're white which is cool I guess.
I can't imaging paying $14 for Riptide pivot cups.
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If you look at a lot of pros who ride Indys a lot of them crank their kingpins more than you'd think, so I stand to reason they could just as well use harder bushings and its not super weird to need to tighten Indys a bit. I saw a recent photo of Tom Knox's board with 3 threads showing on his rear truck and 2 on his front. From my experience going orange to blues was a difference of 1.5-2 threads for same tightness. He could likely go to blacks and have the nut still not flush.
Pros don't give a shit about this stuff. They are just going to run whatever shows up in the box hah
I definitely get this impression as well. I love watching the pro setup vids where they barely know anything about what they're riding... "Yeah, these are uhhh... 54's I think?"... "I run three bolts because I uh, lost one"... "I switched to 169's because they sent me the wrong size"... "This is an 8.25 I think?... Wheelbase? No idea"...
And then you look closely at their trucks and the bushings are absolutely destroyed, cut to shit, cracking, oozing over the mangled washers...
I wish I could be more like that... But no, back to shopping for wheels I don't need.
Andrew Reynolds definitely gives a shit. If you watch setup videos a lot of pros swap bushings, crank their shit, and tweak their trucks. Lots don't too, but over generalizing isn't super accurate. They're not Slap level madness but they can get into stuff more than you'd assume.
Oh for sure, wasn't meaning to bulk all pro's in there, just genuinely entertaining to see how unimportant it is to so many of them. Which is cool, very zen that it's about the act, not the gear for a them. Also speaks to how skilled they are that they can jump on whatever and kill it, when I can barely Ollie for the first ten minutes if I drop ¾" in wheelbase...
I have no doubt that pros run the gamut from slapping together whatever their spono sends them, right up to Ben Degros/Slap level madness.
My main hobbies over the years have been cycling, skiing and audio, where we obsess over the tiniest most insignificant differences: grams, millimeters, degrees, tire pressures, waxes and edge angles etc. and audio... my god, you want to talk minutiae... whole nother order of magnitude...
You know what is rampant in those hobbies? Gear snobbery, elitism and gatekeeping. Sucks the fun out big time.
Compared to those worlds, it's actually pretty jarring how little most skaters (Slap excluded) know/care to know about skateboard setup, but no judgement, it's about the act and that's awesome. I've never participated in a sport with less gear snobbery or elitism. Nobody gives a flying fuck what you're riding and it's fantastic.
Skating is cool in that you can not give a shit, ride a clapped out setup and still rip, or obsess over the details, tune and tweak and both are fine, both work, both are accepted.
Dang, that was some ted talks bullshit, back to trucks!
One guy I skate with, and he really rips up the place whenever he’s around, can skate the same width board but totally switch up lengths and wheelbases. He can go from a 14,25” straight back to a 15” WB, and not seem phased at all. I don’t he knows or care at all.
I love that too about skating.
Before going back to school I used to work as a moped mechanic at a shop that specialises in high end road bicycles and mopeds.
And we would have these guys with their shaved legs in lycra tights fretting over literally grams of bicycle gears, while being +250 lbs.
But here I am…. 249 lbs. Disassembling my trucks every three weeks. Making sure every bearing spins. Battling wheelbite with different duro bushings and cast plates.
;D ;D ;D ;D
Yeah, it's interesting how much more emphasis is put on width than length (that's what she said), being somewhere in the 6'4" to 6'5" region I find wheelbase to have a massive impact. I just find myself way too packed up on sub 14.5" WB. 15" is most comfortable but I'm riding my 14.75" more often and trying to get used to it to open up more deck options.
I've dipped my toes in the road bike world (MTN biker), and yeah, the gram geekery is unreal, middle aged dudes with a beergut buying $200 30 gram carbon fiber bidon cages to hold a 1kg bottle of water...
Anyway, back to Indy trucks, after being back on Indy forged hollow for a couple months now I'm still 100% satisfied. They grind so good on metal, cement, coping, whatever, the turn is perfect, no complaints. 210lbs and still running stock bushings with Ace top washers and they're perfect. 56mm Conical Full's with ⅛ risers and no wheelbite issues. I feel like they firm up more before wheelbite with the Ace washers.
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If you look at a lot of pros who ride Indys a lot of them crank their kingpins more than you'd think, so I stand to reason they could just as well use harder bushings and its not super weird to need to tighten Indys a bit. I saw a recent photo of Tom Knox's board with 3 threads showing on his rear truck and 2 on his front. From my experience going orange to blues was a difference of 1.5-2 threads for same tightness. He could likely go to blacks and have the nut still not flush.
Pros don't give a shit about this stuff. They are just going to run whatever shows up in the box hah
I definitely get this impression as well. I love watching the pro setup vids where they barely know anything about what they're riding... "Yeah, these are uhhh... 54's I think?"... "I run three bolts because I uh, lost one"... "I switched to 169's because they sent me the wrong size"... "This is an 8.25 I think?... Wheelbase? No idea"...
And then you look closely at their trucks and the bushings are absolutely destroyed, cut to shit, cracking, oozing over the mangled washers...
I wish I could be more like that... But no, back to shopping for wheels I don't need.
Andrew Reynolds definitely gives a shit. If you watch setup videos a lot of pros swap bushings, crank their shit, and tweak their trucks. Lots don't too, but over generalizing isn't super accurate. They're not Slap level madness but they can get into stuff more than you'd assume.
Oh for sure, wasn't meaning to bulk all pro's in there, just genuinely entertaining to see how unimportant it is to so many of them. Which is cool, very zen that it's about the act, not the gear for a them. Also speaks to how skilled they are that they can jump on whatever and kill it, when I can barely Ollie for the first ten minutes if I drop ¾" in wheelbase...
I have no doubt that pros run the gamut from slapping together whatever their spono sends them, right up to Ben Degros/Slap level madness.
My main hobbies over the years have been cycling, skiing and audio, where we obsess over the tiniest most insignificant differences: grams, millimeters, degrees, tire pressures, waxes and edge angles etc. and audio... my god, you want to talk minutiae... whole nother order of magnitude...
You know what is rampant in those hobbies? Gear snobbery, elitism and gatekeeping. Sucks the fun out big time.
Compared to those worlds, it's actually pretty jarring how little most skaters (Slap excluded) know/care to know about skateboard setup, but no judgement, it's about the act and that's awesome. I've never participated in a sport with less gear snobbery or elitism. Nobody gives a flying fuck what you're riding and it's fantastic.
Skating is cool in that you can not give a shit, ride a clapped out setup and still rip, or obsess over the details, tune and tweak and both are fine, both work, both are accepted.
Dang, that was some ted talks bullshit, back to trucks!
One guy I skate with, and he really rips up the place whenever he’s around, can skate the same width board but totally switch up lengths and wheelbases. He can go from a 14,25” straight back to a 15” WB, and not seem phased at all. I don’t he knows or care at all.
I love that too about skating.
Before going back to school I used to work as a moped mechanic at a shop that specialises in high end road bicycles and mopeds.
And we would have these guys with their shaved legs in lycra tights fretting over literally grams of bicycle gears, while being +250 lbs.
But here I am…. 249 lbs. Disassembling my trucks every three weeks. Making sure every bearing spins. Battling wheelbite with different duro bushings and cast plates.
;D ;D ;D ;D
Yeah, it's interesting how much more emphasis is put on width than length (that's what she said), being somewhere in the 6'4" to 6'5" region I find wheelbase to have a massive impact. I just find myself way too packed up on sub 14.5" WB. 15" is most comfortable but I'm riding my 14.75" more often and trying to get used to it to open up more deck options.
I've dipped my toes in the road bike world (MTN biker), and yeah, the gram geekery is unreal, middle aged dudes with a beergut buying $200 30 gram carbon fiber bidon cages to hold a 1kg bottle of water...
Anyway, back to Indy trucks, after being back on Indy forged hollow for a couple months now I'm still 100% satisfied. They grind so good on metal, cement, coping, whatever, the turn is perfect, no complaints. 210lbs and still running stock bushings with Ace top washers and they're perfect. 56mm Conical Full's with ⅛ risers and no wheelbite issues. I feel like they firm up more before wheelbite with the Ace washers.
Don’t get me started on guitar! Loads of that snake oil going on. I blame the audiophiles. It’s the most superstitious and intangible pseudo science these guys worry anbout. Others just play. I started cutting away most of the excess bullshit. And it’s worked much better than military grade gold plated IEC power cables. Who would have thought practicing would work?
Back indeed.
I tried that other guys board, and even though we’re both on 169 hollow, his has standard bushings. But he’s super tall and skinny. I wasn’t in control.
Hmmm forged plates and a riser? That’d put your truck at a hearty 56,5mm. And no wheelbite you say?
I’ll have to check out the Ace top washers. What’s different with them?
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Anyway, back to Indy trucks, after being back on Indy forged hollow for a couple months now I'm still 100% satisfied. They grind so good on metal, cement, coping, whatever, the turn is perfect, no complaints. 210lbs and still running stock bushings with Ace top washers and they're perfect. 56mm Conical Full's with ⅛ risers and no wheelbite issues. I feel like they firm up more before wheelbite with the Ace washers.
Sounds like a good stable board. :)
I’ll have to check out the Ace top washers. What’s different with them?
The stock top Indy washer is quite deep with a fairly sharp edge.
The stock top Ace washer is very flat compared to the stock top Indy washer and doesn't cut into bushings, just like any of the after market Indy bushing washers too, which I prefer to use with the Indy low top bushings, but any of the new aftermarket bushing kits in the clear plastic containers have good washers.
If you had swapped out bushings, you most likely would have swapped out washers too, but if it doesn't affect your top bushing, you don't need to worry about it.
Others have sliced the sides off the top bushing in the first session by going a bit hard right from go and tightening them down too much.
I have pics, but not right here.
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Oh yeah, washers. Otherwise going fully stock, but as someone suggested here, been using Ace top washers on my forged hollows. The difference is not huge, but it's on the positive side. The turn is very stable. Placebo? Possibly, but can't complain if it feels right.
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My $0.02: 145 lbs here, Indy Forged Hollows with the stock orange bushings feel pretty much perfect. Also, I see no reason to change the stock pivot cups. They seem just great.
To summarize: seems like I need to tinker a lot less with Indys as opposed to Aces which I rode before going back to Indys.
Completely right. Currently around 180 but used to be 230 at one point of my skating and never had to change the pivot cups on Indys
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Anyway, back to Indy trucks, after being back on Indy forged hollow for a couple months now I'm still 100% satisfied. They grind so good on metal, cement, coping, whatever, the turn is perfect, no complaints. 210lbs and still running stock bushings with Ace top washers and they're perfect. 56mm Conical Full's with ⅛ risers and no wheelbite issues. I feel like they firm up more before wheelbite with the Ace washers.
Sounds like a good stable board. :)
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I’ll have to check out the Ace top washers. What’s different with them?
The stock top Indy washer is quite deep with a fairly sharp edge.
The stock top Ace washer is very flat compared to the stock top Indy washer and doesn't cut into bushings, just like any of the after market Indy bushing washers too, which I prefer to use with the Indy low top bushings, but any of the new aftermarket bushing kits in the clear plastic containers have good washers.
If you had swapped out bushings, you most likely would have swapped out washers too, but if it doesn't affect your top bushing, you don't need to worry about it.
Others have sliced the sides off the top bushing in the first session by going a bit hard right from go and tightening them down too much.
I have pics, but not right here.
Good summary!
Yeah, stock Indy top washers are fine if you don't tighten, but if you tighten your trucks at all it flares the top bushing and the stupid razor sharp washer will cut it to shreds. The aftermarket Indy ones are indeed better.
Ace top washers don't have the super cupped shape like Indy, they're more like a saucer or plate and they also have kind of a camber inside, or concave like a deck. Pressing the trucks by hand, it appears that the washer compresses the top bushing sooner in a turn. They're also noticeably thicker than Indy washers so it's probably like adding a thread of tightness even though they're flush.
Funny enough, I feel like this setup turns easily as well, if not better than Ace's with hard bushings. My wheelbite marks support this, as they're in basically the same place as when I was running AF1 66's with hard bushings. If you factor in Indy's having the axles a few mm farther out than Ace's, this suggests that the hangers are actually turning in a bit more! Peak madness!!
For reference I'm 6'4" 205lbs and wear size 14 blazers (you know what they say about big feet... yeah it's a lie) and skate the same truck setup on an Anti Hero 9" orange eagle with 169's and a 8.75" Blue meanie with 159's.
I tried Indy blue bushings with Ace top washers and found it too hard. Maybe if I was doing more flatground, but I don't do any.
I'm older and don't do any high impact stuff, mostly medium transition and ledges, but I've been skating them probably six hours a week for a couple months and the bushings still look perfect. Wheelbite marks on the deck but haven't gotten pitched and no cuts or bulges to the bushings.
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Been on Indy's since 1995 and did a jaunt on aces past year but back to indy's. Just feels more comfortable and familiar.
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Been on Indy's since 1995 and did a jaunt on aces past year but back to indy's. Just feels more comfortable and familiar.
just put together a setup to reminisce about 1995 (ish), camos, half cabs, ob4cl, wallys, indy’s with 7.75s, bigger wheels….
anyways, the takeaway for me, was that 139s on 7.75 felt shockingly familiar, and allowed me to use a wheel size greater than 50 mm, which made skating to the spot possible.
im using stage 10s, the grind feels better. they turn less, which i like. but it seems like the correct amount of turn. my replacement indy bushings were too tall, which makes sense, so i ditched the bottom washer and it’s ok for now. i do remember people using the bones bushings and the lower conical bushing probably helps the turning.
blah blah blah, the pop is really decent, and i had a few of the best treflips i’ve had in the last several years. all with a bigger wheel.
i’ll still hate on indy tho
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Thought this should go here as well, given people in the comments of that post didn't know the Stage 4 bushings were different heights to the current Stage 11 and similar trucks.
It definitely feels better with a taller bottom bushing in there, but you can get away with a lower top to loosen them up more or get the kingpin nut down lower if clearance is an issue.
Bushing size difference, from what I can recall:
Stage 11
Top 10.5 mm
Bottom 13 mm
Stage 4
Top 12.5 mm
Bottom 14-15 mm
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Official replacement bushings aren't out yet, right ?
They're pitching them on their Instagram right now, but I don't know if they are yet shipping to stores.
Thanks for the info.
Had to go check them out:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CusOQgLPP7o/?img_index=1
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Back with the Forged hollows 139 !
A lot of trouble with Venture for some tricks because of their wide wheelbase, even on a 14 wb board, quite hard for me because I'm small. The fact that Independent has a small wheelbase can help me, I'm sure! And I already had these trucks about 3 years ago, I loved the feeling while skating the independents, even if they are light versions, they still have a very controllable weight, with that for Venture, the standards are quite heavy for me and I find the Lights difficult to skate.. Wheelbase too big.. I also say goodbye definitely to the Thunder, I don't get used to their lightness and their feeling.. too "stiff", I don't like not the sound too, if you know what I mean haha
I'm curious to try the 139 indy hollows on a 14 wheelbase !
And .. the independents trucks are so authentic, they are simple, beautiful and effective. I don't pay attention to recent reviews because they are made in China.. many pros have stuck with them despite this (Example: The Boss)
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Al lot of recent posts have made me want to lose weight in the most positive way I could have ever imagined.
Stuff like saying “Indy standard bushings have me covered, and I weigh 145-175 lbs.”
It’s kind of being health positive and not fat shaming in the very best of ways.
I’m so motivated right now. It’ll lessen my health problems but also my board madness. What’s not to like?
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Al lot of recent posts have made me want to lose weight in the most positive way I could have ever imagined.
Stuff like saying “Indy standard bushings have me covered, and I weigh 145-175 lbs.”
It’s kind of being health positive and not fat shaming in the very best of ways.
I’m so motivated right now. It’ll lessen my health problems but also my board madness. What’s not to like?
No downside! Well, aside from being hungry...
I'm type 1 insulin dependent diabetic and it's taught me a ton about nutrition, you want to see weight fall off? Figure out common sources of sugar, starch and white flour (simple carbohydrates) in your day to day, reduce those and watch your body change. Fat is fine, you don't need to eat low fat, sugar is the enemy, that shit's evil.
I've always been pretty active, but I never expected skateboarding to be as good a workout as it is. I go out twice a week on average for three-ish hour sessions and I can see my abs for the first time since my 20's at 40 years old. 90% transition,10% street.
Running stock Indy forged hollow 169's with ace top washers at 205lbs. Tried a board with 151 Thunders last week and the stability was kind of addictive. Threw in some Indy blue bushings to try out at the park tomorrow morning.
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And .. the independents trucks are so authentic, they are simple, beautiful and effective. I don't pay attention to recent reviews because they are made in China.. many pros have stuck with them despite this (Example: The Boss)
People hate on Indy these days because they retired the iron cross. Ironically, the most vocal group is old people boycotting Stage IV reissues (even though the first cross wouldn't appear on baseplates for another 15 years after their initial release).
Also, I back new tech on Stage IVs. 10 inch wide reissues can get really heavy.
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And .. the independents trucks are so authentic, they are simple, beautiful and effective. I don't pay attention to recent reviews because they are made in China.. many pros have stuck with them despite this (Example: The Boss)
People hate on Indy these days because they retired the iron cross. Ironically, the most vocal group is old people boycotting Stage IV reissues (even though the first cross wouldn't appear on baseplates for another 15 years after their initial release).
Also, I back new tech on Stage IVs. 10 inch wide reissues can get really heavy.
It's not dramatic either.. Things are changing haha
Do you know if the forged Hollows go well with a 14 WB board ?
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Back on independent today.. first session in a long time with the forged hollows.. I love the feel on the independents so much.. so supple and soft, the sound too.. Not a stiff feel and plastic sound like the Thunder.. The weight of these hollows is perfect!! I rode Venture for a long time, they remain in my heart but I feel better with independents.. With my 14 wb and 31.5 board, so easy to pop! Much more than with Venture high where the wheelbase is big .. too hard for my little legs haha
I want to reason with myself and stop my madness with trucks, staying on independent now .. after all, these trucks are simple, effective! Especially forged Hollows, perfect for everything..! Note that I skated them five years ago before it went into production in China and I don't see any difference now..
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The quality of Independent Trucks is that same or higher since moving overseas. It turns out that Chinese people are perfectly capable of operating heavy machinery.
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The quality of Independent Trucks is that same or higher since moving overseas. It turns out that Chinese people are perfectly capable of operating heavy machinery.
Haha, yep, the "Made in China = junk no matter what" thing is goofy. Chinese manufacturers just make what they're paid to make, to the specs they're paid to make them to. Order a product made for absolute bottom dollar? No problem, here's your disposable junk! Order a high quality product made out of high quality materials and pay for it? No problem, here's your high quality product. Country of origin doesn't matter.
The three sets of Indy forged hollows I've gotten this year have had absolutely perfect fit and finish. Not that a skateboard truck is exactly a precision instrument.
Honestly, they just work so damn well I can't justify moving to anything else. Ace AF1's were nice enough but the hardware is garbage and my pop sucked with the longer tailed decks I prefer. They're squeaky MF'rs, but you don't notice it when skating anyway.
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I weirdly had 3 of the best sessions of my recent life, then 1 great session, then 4 more increasingly trash sessions on forged Ti. It always seems to work like this and I never figure out why.
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The quality of Independent Trucks is that same or higher since moving overseas. It turns out that Chinese people are perfectly capable of operating heavy machinery.
Haha, yep, the "Made in China = junk no matter what" thing is goofy. Chinese manufacturers just make what they're paid to make, to the specs they're paid to make them to. Order a product made for absolute bottom dollar? No problem, here's your disposable junk! Order a high quality product made out of high quality materials and pay for it? No problem, here's your high quality product. Country of origin doesn't matter.
The three sets of Indy forged hollows I've gotten this year have had absolutely perfect fit and finish. Not that a skateboard truck is exactly a precision instrument.
Honestly, they just work so damn well I can't justify moving to anything else. Ace AF1's were nice enough but the hardware is garbage and my pop sucked with the longer tailed decks I prefer. They're squeaky MF'rs, but you don't notice it when skating anyway.
I use some soap flakes. Don’t know their name in English. In the pívot cup. It works like a charm.
(https://i.ibb.co/fGNxL7y/IMG-2618.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fGNxL7y)
My setups are completely squeak free 😊
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Wax on the pivot part of the hanger also works great if you're into non-squeaking trucks.
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Anyone set up a zip zinger on 109s? I've only ran 129s and was curious about others' preference. I really just love the way 109s look.
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Anyone set up a zip zinger on 109s? I've only ran 129s and was curious about others' preference. I really just love the way 109s look.
i have. inspired by brent atchley in a satori ad, yes those 109s look nice.
i didn’t really like the zip zinger, turn was fine/fun, hated the ollie.
one day i’ll learn to chill out, cruise, but when i get on a board i start spazzing and trying tricks, and for me, that setup wasn’t it.
trucks are really good tho, ace equivalent is probably dope too
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Not exactly a Zinger, but I have a Mini Beach Bum on Ace 00's (whatever the smallest are) and it is insane. Scary, but fun.
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Very annoying little defect for my new indy, but the bushings squeak despite i’m in medium Loose .. Do you have a small solution or tips or will it stop doing it naturally ? ;D
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My recent indys bushings started cracking after like 2 weeks of riding them and that has never happened to me before. I then bought the stock indy replacement bushings and it happened again in a short time period. I was over it and bought some aces and must say their stock bushings are way better. Have been contemplating going back to indys but i keep thinking about how bad those bushings were for me. I rode indy for 20 yrs on stock orange bushings and never had them crumble so quickly. Maybe issues with their bushings quality all together
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Anyone set up a zip zinger on 109s? I've only ran 129s and was curious about others' preference. I really just love the way 109s look.
I’ve got an old Cliche gonz zip zinger clone on 109s with kryptonics, and it’s a dream cruiser, even managed a couple chicken scratch grinds with it
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My recent indys bushings started cracking after like 2 weeks of riding them and that has never happened to me before. I then bought the stock indy replacement bushings and it happened again in a short time period. I was over it and bought some aces and must say their stock bushings are way better. Have been contemplating going back to indys but i keep thinking about how bad those bushings were for me. I rode indy for 20 yrs on stock orange bushings and never had them crumble so quickly. Maybe issues with their bushings quality all together
It's different for everyone I guess. I ride Ace and love their medium bushings more than anything else out there. But I've had plenty of sets disintegrate pretty quickly and rip/crack. Some sets seeming a little more resilient. But those new Indy stock orange ones are actually pretty damn solid with great rebound and they always seemed way more resilient than Ace's. When it comes to AF1's, yeah those pivot cups last about 1-2 sessions for me. Indy stock cups are like indestructible. If you like Indy aside from the bushings you could always just put Ace's in 'em it works great.
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by brent atchley in a satori ad
That clip is all time awesome, blacked out board multi colour wheels
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My recent indys bushings started cracking after like 2 weeks of riding them and that has never happened to me before. I then bought the stock indy replacement bushings and it happened again in a short time period. I was over it and bought some aces and must say their stock bushings are way better. Have been contemplating going back to indys but i keep thinking about how bad those bushings were for me. I rode indy for 20 yrs on stock orange bushings and never had them crumble so quickly. Maybe issues with their bushings quality all together
It's different for everyone I guess. I ride Ace and love their medium bushings more than anything else out there. But I've had plenty of sets disintegrate pretty quickly and rip/crack. Some sets seeming a little more resilient. But those new Indy stock orange ones are actually pretty damn solid with great rebound and they always seemed way more resilient than Ace's. When it comes to AF1's, yeah those pivot cups last about 1-2 sessions for me. Indy stock cups are like indestructible. If you like Indy aside from the bushings you could always just put Ace's in 'em it works great.
Yeah i could of just got a batch that had some bad ones in them on the indys...i have the ace classics so not sure if they are any different. But i also want to just go back to get the feel of indys again to see if i missed them. The new justin henrys are making me want a pair asap
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How are the forged indys compared to standards? Do they feel noticeably different in terms of pop?
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My recent indys bushings started cracking after like 2 weeks of riding them and that has never happened to me before. I then bought the stock indy replacement bushings and it happened again in a short time period. I was over it and bought some aces and must say their stock bushings are way better. Have been contemplating going back to indys but i keep thinking about how bad those bushings were for me. I rode indy for 20 yrs on stock orange bushings and never had them crumble so quickly. Maybe issues with their bushings quality all together
Ace bushings work great in Indys.
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How are the forged indys compared to standards? Do they feel noticeably different in terms of pop?
Slightly faster/lighter feeling. It's noticeable and your timing will be a bit different
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How are the forged indys compared to standards? Do they feel noticeably different in terms of pop?
Slightly faster/lighter feeling. It's noticeable and your timing will be a bit different
And the pop sound and vibration of the baseplate is also noticeably different.
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I don't notice the vibration aspect of it but i'm sure it's true for others. The height feels different (imo, better).
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Thanks for the answers, i'm soon retiring my current Thunders and im tempted to go back to Indy. Only skated the standards and hollow axle ones in the past so i'm curious how different the lighter lower Indy would be.
Would you go for Mindys or the forged hollows if you were coming from Thunders?
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Thanks for the answers, i'm soon retiring my current Thunders and im tempted to go back to Indy. Only skated the standards and hollow axle ones in the past so i'm curious how different the lighter lower Indy would be.
Would you go for Mindys or the forged hollows if you were coming from Thunders?
I'd go with the forged hollows. It think it's the safer bet in most circumstances.
If your Thunders were 148 or wider with a cast plate, then the height difference will only be 1.5mm. However, if you're coming off something super low like a 147 with a forged plate, the height increase (4.5mm) will be something that might feel strange, at least at first.
The Mindys are also a pretty heavy truck coming off Thunders. The forged hollows might give you a smoother transition there as well.
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Thanks for the answers, i'm soon retiring my current Thunders and im tempted to go back to Indy. Only skated the standards and hollow axle ones in the past so i'm curious how different the lighter lower Indy would be.
Would you go for Mindys or the forged hollows if you were coming from Thunders?
Neither, I'd go Standards honestly. I find the transition between those two way easier. Forged Hollows and especially Forged Ti feel too light to me the pop is too fast and the trucks feel weird on some decks. I absolutely hate them on shorter decks, but can ride them on something longer. People can talk about wheelbase and height and stuff and maybe on paper they end up close to Thunders in that regard, but the feeling isn't remotely the same.
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Thanks for the answers, i'm soon retiring my current Thunders and im tempted to go back to Indy. Only skated the standards and hollow axle ones in the past so i'm curious how different the lighter lower Indy would be.
Would you go for Mindys or the forged hollows if you were coming from Thunders?
Honestly when you come from light trucks, Forged Hollows are not that light..! I find that it keeps a heavy pop compared to standard thunder or venture V lights/Hollows. I have a lot more control with these trucks, they are almost the same weight as the Venture Standard, and for me, it's the perfect weight! (At least for 139 like I skate). After trying a lot of trucks, I confirm that I prefer when it's a little heavier.. Example with the thunder 147, I injured my ankle because of a 360 flip that turned into 540 without that I expect..
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Forged Hollow 144 weigh ~340-345g and the Ti come in at 330g. A Thunder 148 standard is 357. So, they're definitely lighter than Thunders in weight and in pop feel. For me it logically works when the truck is like 51mm, but at 53.5 such a light truck feels strange. The pop angle is still pretty high, but once the board snaps it is lighter in the air. So it is a firmer snap due to the pop angle, but it doesn't really suck up the same.
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I definitely had a different experience going from Thunder to Indy. My 144 forged hollows were 350g each brand new and the pop felt nice and hefty compared to the Thunders. I was coming off 147 Teams (cast baseplate, nothing hollow) and the pop feel on those felt so light, I felt like I couldn't get my board to catch up to me in the air.
I'm sure the 148s and up feel heftier with added weight and height though. I keep getting tempted to try em again in 148.
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Got some stage 4's (the 8.3ish ones) and skated them flat-ground for the first time recently. They definitely feel more surfy than stage 11's (especially with those soft 90a red bushings) with some additional differences between the two. I did minor measurements (I don't have the specific #'s anymore) and saw that they do bring in the wheel base a bit more than 11's, and the height seemed more like 53mm as opposed to 55mm. I had them paired with a g052 chocolate shape, which has a longer tail/nose, so skating them on this board kind of felt like I was skating low trucks since the geometry of the setup led to quicker pop. I didn't mind it. Though, I kind of lost my nollie flips since the nose is nearly 6.9" in, making the pop way too mellow for me. My wheels are prolly 50mm, so I think I would have to jump to 53 or 54mm to remedy this. Stage 4's come in at over 400g, but I honestly didn't really notice the heft all that much when trying flips tricks. It was pretty cool, though. They have a great look and I love how newer equipment like this can really inspire you to skate more.
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Thanks for the answers, i'm soon retiring my current Thunders and im tempted to go back to Indy. Only skated the standards and hollow axle ones in the past so i'm curious how different the lighter lower Indy would be.
Would you go for Mindys or the forged hollows if you were coming from Thunders?
I haven't skated any regular indy for awhile, but I just skated the mindy's and I have skated thunders. I skated the hollow forged and while they are heavy, the lower profile and the wheelbase made the set up feel pretty nice IMO. Regular indys just feel too high for me, while the mindys are still heavy, it doesn't feel like a monster truck.
That said, full transparency, after the 144's I skated, I sized down to 5.2 ventures, so it seems like I still felt the set up was too much of a vert board. I kinda think your just a thunder guy.....
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I have this theory regarding indy's. Because indy turns instead of going straight, with slight off center weight balance, you get way better pressure for spins. I can spin shuvits much flatter with indys because of this. Anyone else share this experience?
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Thanks for everyone sharing their thoughts, will keep them in mind when my trucks are soon done.
I think the spinning would more be affected by the wheelbase being more in. Atleast i feel it when riding standard Indys that things like 360s come much easier, than when riding Thunders. I feel like complete fucking idiot even trying back 3s On Thunders.
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Well in order to go straight with indys, u have to pressure the board more then thunders, which in turn flexes the board in a way that gives for easier 360s, as the board springs with you easier. If that makes sense. I just watched Oppenheimer and is now a physicist
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Well in order to go straight with indys, u have to pressure the board more then thunders, which in turn flexes the board in a way that gives for easier 360s, as the board springs with you easier. If that makes sense. I just watched Oppenheimer and is now a physicist
Put on a lab coat and you can be a professor. I look forward to the lecture.
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Thanks for everyone sharing their thoughts, will keep them in mind when my trucks are soon done.
I think the spinning would more be affected by the wheelbase being more in. Atleast i feel it when riding standard Indys that things like 360s come much easier, than when riding Thunders. I feel like complete fucking idiot even trying back 3s On Thunders.
Put your foot more in the back pocket/hang the toes off slightly, delay rotation slightly after popping and it's parity I've found.
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Thanks for everyone sharing their thoughts, will keep them in mind when my trucks are soon done.
I think the spinning would more be affected by the wheelbase being more in. Atleast i feel it when riding standard Indys that things like 360s come much easier, than when riding Thunders. I feel like complete fucking idiot even trying back 3s On Thunders.
Put your foot more in the back pocket/hang the toes off slightly, delay rotation slightly after popping and it's parity I've found.
Delaying rotation really does work indeed. Also i've noticed that when skating Thunders you have to be more on your front foot which kinda throws my balance off still. That's why the switch to Indys is pretty tempting.
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I admit openly that I don't feel the same differences in trucks that others feel, but I can say that I put on some Forged Indy Hollows a few weeks ago, but didn't skate them much due to work, illness and travel. Finally squeaked out a session last week and did a first try heelflip - which has basically never happened in ~35 years of skateboarding. As well, my kickflips are way quicker with the hollows than with Ace AF-1s. Pop feels the same as any Indy IMO, but the very quick and easy flick was immediately noticeable.
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Not sure if this is better suited here, or in the Ace thread, but I’m gonna go ahead anyway…
You reckon if I put a stage XI & an AF-1 in a shoe box & just left them there for a reeeally long time, they’d eventually get bored in there & fuck, producing an offspring that possesses the turn of an Ace with the pop of the Indy?
Love my Aces, AF-1 AND Classic, but the XIs feel so much better when I crack that tail.
I regularly have both Indy & Ace with me at the same session & my ollie height is improved by 33% due to the difference in timing.
I spent most of the last 40 years exclusively on Thunders, so maybe I just don’t care for that right wheelbase dim when it comes to ollies?
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Not sure if this is better suited here, or in the Ace thread, but I’m gonna go ahead anyway…
You reckon if I put a stage XI & an AF-1 in a shoe box & just left them there for a reeeally long time, they’d eventually get bored in there & fuck, producing an offspring that possesses the turn of an Ace with the pop of the Indy?
Love my Aces, AF-1 AND Classic, but the XIs feel so much better when I crack that tail.
I regularly have both Indy & Ace with me at the same session & my ollie height is improved by 33% due to the difference in timing.
I spent most of the last 40 years exclusively on Thunders, so maybe I just don’t care for that right wheelbase dim when it comes to ollies?
Ace classics with an 1/8" riser under them should get you the Indy height you like and the turn of Ace. Especially if you don't care about inverted kingpins or messing with bushings at all, the classics run pretty bitchin' stock as they are. I would ditch the top washer though to really get that extra twitch n carve, but that's me.
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I know this is usually discussed in the ace threads, but have we determined the cause of the washer clicking?
I took a year and a half hiatus from Indy (ventures), and my first pair back was breaking in so good til the front one started making that crazy noise.
They’re 144 standards. I’ve got the orange cylinder aftermarket Indy bushings with the right washers so i shouldn’t be changing any geometry. Kingpin nut is just about flush too, but I can see the washer move if I move the truck back and forth with my hands. The bushing kinda makes the bottom one slide, the top one seems to be pretty ok.
Also, second part to my question; does it just go away?
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Did you use the stock or aftermarket washers? I'd stick to the stock ones. I have found the aftermarket top to be sharp and they're a bit smaller of a dish and sometimes the bushings spill over the sides. A friend had the same problem and I asked my local shop and they acted as if it was common knowledge to always use the stock.
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A few years ago, someone linked to some cheap sleeved lower washers on Amazon and I bought a pair. I installed them on some nearly new Ace trucks - the fit was snug over the kingpin and I had to manipulate the bottom bushing to get it seated, but the clicking went away permanently and has never returned.
Looking for them now, I can’t turn anything cheap - just expensive ones from Array, the longboard company. Maybe someone who isn’t looking at their phone without their glasses will have better luck or maybe you’re stuck buying the $30 ones intended for Caliber IIIs.
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Buddy of mine put some stage 4 hangers on his slappy baseplates with the stock stage 4 bushings and the geometry worked perfectly, turning was nuts and paired with OG krux pins. He didn't use loctite though, so his hanger flew off mid slappy lol.
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I know this is usually discussed in the ace threads, but have we determined the cause of the washer clicking?
I took a year and a half hiatus from Indy (ventures), and my first pair back was breaking in so good til the front one started making that crazy noise.
They’re 144 standards. I’ve got the orange cylinder aftermarket Indy bushings with the right washers so i shouldn’t be changing any geometry. Kingpin nut is just about flush too, but I can see the washer move if I move the truck back and forth with my hands. The bushing kinda makes the bottom one slide, the top one seems to be pretty ok.
Also, second part to my question; does it just go away?
It iis almost always the metal washer moving on the kingpin, so when the bottom washer, or more commonly the top washer is pushed from side to side, the pressure with the kingpin tightened down causes it to click when it moves to the left or right.
A couple of options that have worked for some people but not for others, most of which I have tried with some success as well:
Tape around the kingpin where the washer touches
Wax on the bottom of the nut / top of the washer
Any sticky adhesive that creates a layer between the nut and washer like blu tac or similar product, not permanent, just something to stop the pressure from moving the washer as much from side to side
It did seem to happen more with some combinations of bushings, washers, trucks but in every case the clicking stopped for either a session or longer, but it is quite annoying until it goes away, or you work out what is going on and fix it.
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Did you use the stock or aftermarket washers? I'd stick to the stock ones. I have found the aftermarket top to be sharp and they're a bit smaller of a dish and sometimes the bushings spill over the sides. A friend had the same problem and I asked my local shop and they acted as if it was common knowledge to always use the stock.
I have the stock washers on the bottom, and I am using ace washers on the top. I had them laying around, so when I put the aftermarket indy bushings in I figured why not - they seemed less sharp and there were some slap recommendations. Now that I type this I wonder if that has something to do with it…. But it’s weird the back truck is fine.
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I know this is usually discussed in the ace threads, but have we determined the cause of the washer clicking?
I took a year and a half hiatus from Indy (ventures), and my first pair back was breaking in so good til the front one started making that crazy noise.
They’re 144 standards. I’ve got the orange cylinder aftermarket Indy bushings with the right washers so i shouldn’t be changing any geometry. Kingpin nut is just about flush too, but I can see the washer move if I move the truck back and forth with my hands. The bushing kinda makes the bottom one slide, the top one seems to be pretty ok.
Also, second part to my question; does it just go away?
It iis almost always the metal washer moving on the kingpin, so when the bottom washer, or more commonly the top washer is pushed from side to side, the pressure with the kingpin tightened down causes it to click when it moves to the left or right.
A couple of options that have worked for some people but not for others, most of which I have tried with some success as well:
Tape around the kingpin where the washer touches
Wax on the bottom of the nut / top of the washer
Any sticky adhesive that creates a layer between the nut and washer like blu tac or similar product, not permanent, just something to stop the pressure from moving the washer as much from side to side
It did seem to happen more with some combinations of bushings, washers, trucks but in every case the clicking stopped for either a session or longer, but it is quite annoying until it goes away, or you work out what is going on and fix it.
Yeah, I did notice the stock washers have a bunch of play, like they’d been given a bigger hole than necessary. Never noticed that before (but probably never thought about it).
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@moonordie
Tagging you here with questions about Indy bushings. Lots of pros crank their Indys:
Chico with hard yellows and threads showing: https://youtu.be/N3L6UtA_Fgg?t=64
Justin Henry with Ace bushings cranked: https://youtu.be/zZJC5FZa3vc?t=8
Alex Willms stock bushings 3 threads showing: https://youtu.be/LNDT4FCNxCo?t=17
Ryan Townley with 2-3 threads: https://youtu.be/V0zLaoJGSKg?t=32
Dakota with yellows and threads: https://youtu.be/POWYcIOvJRY?t=15
Don't be afraid to tighten your Indys there's this weird "I just ride them as they come" vibe to them which is sick if that works, but most people I personally know that ride them tighten them more than Slap seems to suggest.
From my experience with orange and blue bushings is the blues require 1-1.5 less turns than stock. I like this better because it firms up the end of the turn/wheelbite and the top still has a nice carve to it. The more threads showing the more the bushings are preloaded with compression and the less you'll get at the top.
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Don't be afraid to tighten your Indys there's this weird "I just ride them as they come" vibe to them which is sick if that works, but most people I personally know that ride them tighten them more than Slap seems to suggest.
The whole "don't adjust your new trucks" things is weird because they do not arrive at some ideal configuration. I guarantee you that there's some worker with a low PSI air hammer in the factory just installing thousands of nuts a day with absolutely zero concern for torque or anything such as that.
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@moonordie
Don't be afraid to tighten your Indys there's this weird "I just ride them as they come" vibe to them which is sick if that works, but most people I personally know that ride them tighten them more than Slap seems to suggest.
Funny you mention that. I just went out to bomb some hills on my Stage 4s and decided to tighten them a notch or two as they are so wild on center. Lo and behold they felt pretty great at "high" speed tight.
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Don't be afraid to tighten your Indys there's this weird "I just ride them as they come" vibe to them which is sick if that works, but most people I personally know that ride them tighten them more than Slap seems to suggest.
From my experience with orange and blue bushings is the blues require 1-1.5 less turns than stock. I like this better because it firms up the end of the turn/wheelbite and the top still has a nice carve to it. The more threads showing the more the bushings are preloaded with compression and the less you'll get at the top.
This is great advice. Moderately tightening mine made a world of difference. They carve just as well and I feel way more stable when setting up and landing. Really tempted to try out the blue bushings.
I'll add Leo Romero and David Gonzalez to the list of pros with seriously cranked Indys. And Reynolds tightens his enough to warrant angle grinding his kingpins.
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Don't be afraid to tighten your Indys there's this weird "I just ride them as they come" vibe to them which is sick if that works, but most people I personally know that ride them tighten them more than Slap seems to suggest.
From my experience with orange and blue bushings is the blues require 1-1.5 less turns than stock. I like this better because it firms up the end of the turn/wheelbite and the top still has a nice carve to it. The more threads showing the more the bushings are preloaded with compression and the less you'll get at the top.
This is great advice. Moderately tightening mine made a world of difference. They carve just as well and I feel way more stable when setting up and landing. Really tempted to try out the blue bushings.
I'll add Leo Romero and David Gonzalez to the list of pros with seriously cranked Indys. And Reynolds tightens his enough to warrant angle grinding his kingpins.
It’s just madness with him. He hasn’t done a smith or feeble since 1996
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Don't be afraid to tighten your Indys there's this weird "I just ride them as they come" vibe to them which is sick if that works, but most people I personally know that ride them tighten them more than Slap seems to suggest.
From my experience with orange and blue bushings is the blues require 1-1.5 less turns than stock. I like this better because it firms up the end of the turn/wheelbite and the top still has a nice carve to it. The more threads showing the more the bushings are preloaded with compression and the less you'll get at the top.
This is great advice. Moderately tightening mine made a world of difference. They carve just as well and I feel way more stable when setting up and landing. Really tempted to try out the blue bushings.
I'll add Leo Romero and David Gonzalez to the list of pros with seriously cranked Indys. And Reynolds tightens his enough to warrant angle grinding his kingpins.
Ha! I was actually going to add that it is Reynolds so it's entirely possible a 1/4 of a mm of kingpin showing bugs the shit out of him to the point of having to deal with it
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I know this is usually discussed in the ace threads, but have we determined the cause of the washer clicking?
I took a year and a half hiatus from Indy (ventures), and my first pair back was breaking in so good til the front one started making that crazy noise.
They’re 144 standards. I’ve got the orange cylinder aftermarket Indy bushings with the right washers so i shouldn’t be changing any geometry. Kingpin nut is just about flush too, but I can see the washer move if I move the truck back and forth with my hands. The bushing kinda makes the bottom one slide, the top one seems to be pretty ok.
Also, second part to my question; does it just go away?
I'd put the stock Indy washers back on and see if it happens. You changed a few things at once so I would try to isolate components.
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I've been preferring to ride my trucks tighter lately, so I went out and tried the blue medium hards for the first time yesterday. After a bit of breaking in they started to feel really good -- not needing to crank them as much as the stock oranges feels like a good thing to me. Pop felt solid even though I'm still getting the feel of the bushings. I think after a bit more breaking in they'll be perfect.
One question: I read somewhere that the bottom bushing is a wee bit taller than on the stock ones – is this true and by how much?
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One question: I read somewhere that the bottom bushing is a wee bit taller than on the stock ones – is this true and by how much?
I can’t speak for the barrel aftermarket’s but can confirm the conical aftermarket’s are taller than the stock bushings. I don’t know the measurement but from what I can tell by eye and feel the aftermarket bottom is the exact same size as the stock bottom with the washer. If you don’t use the bottom washer with the aftermarket bushing that should keep the same geometry as the stock with washer.
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(https://i.imgur.com/60bjlvI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZlDPl45.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CV3K9FO.jpg)
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Ok so my OCD took over so I had to measure the bottom (cylinder/barrel – no experience in conical bottoms, mind you) bushings of 1) stock oranges and 2) aftermarket blues. :D
Both measured exactly at 12mm high/thick – so there's actually no difference. I can now be at peace.
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I know this is usually discussed in the ace threads, but have we determined the cause of the washer clicking?
I took a year and a half hiatus from Indy (ventures), and my first pair back was breaking in so good til the front one started making that crazy noise.
They’re 144 standards. I’ve got the orange cylinder aftermarket Indy bushings with the right washers so i shouldn’t be changing any geometry. Kingpin nut is just about flush too, but I can see the washer move if I move the truck back and forth with my hands. The bushing kinda makes the bottom one slide, the top one seems to be pretty ok.
Also, second part to my question; does it just go away?
It iis almost always the metal washer moving on the kingpin, so when the bottom washer, or more commonly the top washer is pushed from side to side, the pressure with the kingpin tightened down causes it to click when it moves to the left or right.
A couple of options that have worked for some people but not for others, most of which I have tried with some success as well:
Tape around the kingpin where the washer touches
Wax on the bottom of the nut / top of the washer
Any sticky adhesive that creates a layer between the nut and washer like blu tac or similar product, not permanent, just something to stop the pressure from moving the washer as much from side to side
It did seem to happen more with some combinations of bushings, washers, trucks but in every case the clicking stopped for either a session or longer, but it is quite annoying until it goes away, or you work out what is going on and fix it.
Soooo after a session on Tuesday night it seems to be…gone? Didn’t skate yesterday or today yet but both days I stood on the board to check and seems like it’s non-existent. Little bit of pivot squeak in the front still but I can totally deal with that.
The current bushing/washer combo is still the aftermarket orange cylinders, ace roadside washer, Indy aftermarket boardside washer.
This got me thinking about what you said in bold - did you mean it goes away only to cruelly come back? Or generally works itself out?
I have no idea why I even care so much about that noise, I’m usually not so picky but that one is maddening lol
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I know this is usually discussed in the ace threads, but have we determined the cause of the washer clicking?
I took a year and a half hiatus from Indy (ventures), and my first pair back was breaking in so good til the front one started making that crazy noise.
They’re 144 standards. I’ve got the orange cylinder aftermarket Indy bushings with the right washers so i shouldn’t be changing any geometry. Kingpin nut is just about flush too, but I can see the washer move if I move the truck back and forth with my hands. The bushing kinda makes the bottom one slide, the top one seems to be pretty ok.
Also, second part to my question; does it just go away?
It iis almost always the metal washer moving on the kingpin, so when the bottom washer, or more commonly the top washer is pushed from side to side, the pressure with the kingpin tightened down causes it to click when it moves to the left or right.
A couple of options that have worked for some people but not for others, most of which I have tried with some success as well:
Tape around the kingpin where the washer touches
Wax on the bottom of the nut / top of the washer
Any sticky adhesive that creates a layer between the nut and washer like blu tac or similar product, not permanent, just something to stop the pressure from moving the washer as much from side to side
It did seem to happen more with some combinations of bushings, washers, trucks but in every case the clicking stopped for either a session or longer, but it is quite annoying until it goes away, or you work out what is going on and fix it.
Soooo after a session on Tuesday night it seems to be…gone? Didn’t skate yesterday or today yet but both days I stood on the board to check and seems like it’s non-existent. Little bit of pivot squeak in the front still but I can totally deal with that.
The current bushing/washer combo is still the aftermarket orange cylinders, ace roadside washer, Indy aftermarket boardside washer.
This got me thinking about what you said in bold - did you mean it goes away only to cruelly come back? Or generally works itself out?
I have no idea why I even care so much about that noise, I’m usually not so picky but that one is maddening lol
Yeah sometimes it does just go away on its own, other times when using wax or other things, it is good for a bit and then comes back.
What I did notice when I had a minute to mess around with things on a new set of Ace trucks a while back, was the clicking would increase if I tightened the kingpin nut down more, or decrease if I loosened it off, so once the bushings wear in a bit, then it decreases the pressure between the washer and nut so it will not have so much force pushing things left or right, which causes the click (to go left) then click (to go right) and so on.
Same as if I had something to prevent the binding, so a little wax on the underside of the nut meant that it would not catch so much, in other cases I had with other random truck and bushing combinations.
As with everything, when you are out and skating and things are loud all round, you don't really even notice it, but just standing on a board, leaning heel to toe and back again, hearing click, click, CLICK, CLICK... it definitely gets to me as well. Knowing it is doing that means I need to fix it otherwise it will keep bugging me. That's the maddening bit to me too.
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It's gotta be the Ace top washer. I skated my Indys with an Ace top washer a while ago, and while the truck felt great, the legendary Ace click appeared all of a sudden, not constantly, but every now and then. I was used to the click sometimes coming and going while riding Aces and getting used to it, but on Indys it was strange, man.
Anyway, it's something that will go away eventually, always. Don't start taping up your kingpin or doing other cumbersome stuff.
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Yeah, the ace washer does feel good, but def not worth the hassle. Took em out and put the stock washers back in.
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I am one of the dudes who rides his Indies stock out of the box religiously. This thread has encouraged me to give my Forged Hollows that I ride stock a quarter turn as I feel indeed the stock bushings soften up over time. Wish me luck.
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I am one of the dudes who rides his Indies stock out of the box religiously. This thread has encouraged me to give my Forged Hollows that I ride stock a quarter turn as I feel indeed the stock bushings soften up over time. Wish me luck.
You'll be in our prayers.
Should you, god forbid, fail to return from this dangerous experiment, we will let your family know you loved them.
May god guide your skate wrench, brave sir.
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I am one of the dudes who rides his Indies stock out of the box religiously. This thread has encouraged me to give my Forged Hollows that I ride stock a quarter turn as I feel indeed the stock bushings soften up over time. Wish me luck.
Lord have mercy should you ever try out an Ace top washer on your Indys.
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by brent atchley in a satori ad
That clip is all time awesome, blacked out board multi colour wheels
looks like he’s on a regular board, albeit a small one. very sick. those trucks look good and i bought them because of that
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I am one of the dudes who rides his Indies stock out of the box religiously. This thread has encouraged me to give my Forged Hollows that I ride stock a quarter turn as I feel indeed the stock bushings soften up over time. Wish me luck.
Should you, god forbid, fail to return from this dangerous experiment, we will let your family know you loved them.
May god guide your skate wrench, brave sir.
If you don‘r read a post from me in the next 24 hours, summon the National Guard, Sir.
Lord have mercy should you ever try out an Ace top washer on your Indys.
I won‘t but I thought about putting flat washers on my Aces because they don‘t turn as much as my Indies.
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Stupid question, but titanium hanger with cast plate works right? Ordered some cast plates with the 6 holes and was looking to put some new titanium hangers with em. Pretty sure I’ve seen a few Slap guys running this combo.
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I have that but I'd recommend padding the axles with washers so the nuts are close to flush. My Ti axle ends have worn so much I can barely get the nuts on
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Stupid question, but titanium hanger with cast plate works right? Ordered some cast plates with the 6 holes and was looking to put some new titanium hangers with em. Pretty sure I’ve seen a few Slap guys running this combo.
Yes! Unless you need the six hole, better to get forged plates and chuck on a riser for further weight reductions. Them cast pates be heavey.
I have that but I'd recommend padding the axles with washers so the nuts are close to flush. My Ti axle ends have worn so much I can barely get the nuts on
You've got those AF1 -re-threader nuts now, get to work!
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Oh they thread fine it's just that on my heel side axles there isn't enough axle left to engage the nylock almost. I'm too dumb to post a photo, but they have worn down more than any other axles I've ever had.
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Stupid question, but titanium hanger with cast plate works right? Ordered some cast plates with the 6 holes and was looking to put some new titanium hangers with em. Pretty sure I’ve seen a few Slap guys running this combo.
Yes, I have as many cast plates on any of my own setups, over forged, so if weight is not a worry, cast all the way, mix n match on standard hangers, hollow axles and ti axles alike.
It helps that some friends always want the forged baseplates so I can swap them out any time. They get what they want in a lower / lighter truck baseplate and I get what I want in cast plates, but as said, it is not hard to put risers under forged baseplates to get them up a little higher.
If it is to get the six hole baseplates for whatever reason, then yes they work great, so you can use the old school hole pattern on whatever old school deck and put the lighter ti axle hangers on it to make a better combo, which is way easier than trying to drill out a forged baseplate to the six hole pattern, but I have seen it done too.
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Word! No real reason for the 6 holes, but I saw them online and was more intrigued about the castness - the 6 hole was just a cool side note, making me feel like they’re stage 8s again lol. I’m liking the standard height way more these days, which was not historically the case but 8)
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What are the effects of putting Mindy 149 hangars on Stg 11 standard baseplates? I frankenstien'd a pair together because I wasn't vibing w/ the inverted kingpin but still wanted to ride the hangars that fit perfect on a new set-up.
I guess the easy way to ask is - is there a major difference between the two noted model's baseplates? Or is any difference minor enough to forgot?
Maybe already addressed in the thread, but I wasn't sure how to search it....
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What are the effects of putting Mindy 149 hangars on Stg 11 standard baseplates? I frankenstien'd a pair together because I wasn't vibing w/ the inverted kingpin but still wanted to ride the hangars that fit perfect on a new set-up.
I guess the easy way to ask is - is there a major difference between the two noted model's baseplates? Or is any difference minor enough to forgot?
Maybe already addressed in the thread, but I wasn't sure how to search it....
whats a "Mindy hanger"? the baseplates are what dictate height of stage 11 cast, forged and mids AFAIK.
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What are the effects of putting Mindy 149 hangars on Stg 11 standard baseplates? I frankenstien'd a pair together because I wasn't vibing w/ the inverted kingpin but still wanted to ride the hangars that fit perfect on a new set-up.
I guess the easy way to ask is - is there a major difference between the two noted model's baseplates? Or is any difference minor enough to forgot?
Maybe already addressed in the thread, but I wasn't sure how to search it....
whats a "Mindy hanger"? the baseplates are what dictate height of stage 11 cast, forged and mids AFAIK.
the hangar from an Indy Mid - is that not the usual slang?
Either way, i didn't know if the baseplate or hangar affected the geo
If its just the baseplate that determines height, they should just basically be a stage 11 standard then?
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What are the effects of putting Mindy 149 hangars on Stg 11 standard baseplates? I frankenstien'd a pair together because I wasn't vibing w/ the inverted kingpin but still wanted to ride the hangars that fit perfect on a new set-up.
I guess the easy way to ask is - is there a major difference between the two noted model's baseplates? Or is any difference minor enough to forgot?
Maybe already addressed in the thread, but I wasn't sure how to search it....
whats a "Mindy hanger"? the baseplates are what dictate height of stage 11 cast, forged and mids AFAIK.
the hangar from an Indy Mid - is that not the usual slang?
Either way, i didn't know if the baseplate or hangar affected the geo
If its just the baseplate that determines height, they should just basically be a stage 11 standard then?
On mids and lows you can use/have either baseplate. There are currently only 4 baseplate options. Cast and forged. On mids they throw in the inverted kingpin.
The geo is all in the hanger.
I imagine you’ll get less kp clearance with your frankied trucks, but mid come with the most to begin with, so might not be an issue.
I’d rather get forged from here on in, as can get a lower and lighter setup. With cast you can only go higher and never lighter.
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What are the effects of putting Mindy 149 hangars on Stg 11 standard baseplates? I frankenstien'd a pair together because I wasn't vibing w/ the inverted kingpin but still wanted to ride the hangars that fit perfect on a new set-up.
I guess the easy way to ask is - is there a major difference between the two noted model's baseplates? Or is any difference minor enough to forgot?
Maybe already addressed in the thread, but I wasn't sure how to search it....
whats a "Mindy hanger"? the baseplates are what dictate height of stage 11 cast, forged and mids AFAIK.
the hangar from an Indy Mid - is that not the usual slang?
Either way, i didn't know if the baseplate or hangar affected the geo
If its just the baseplate that determines height, they should just basically be a stage 11 standard then?
On mids and lows you can use/have either baseplate. There are currently only 4 baseplate options. Cast and forged. On mids they throw in the inverted kingpin.
The geo is all in the hanger.
I imagine you’ll get less kp clearance with your frankied trucks, but mid come with the most to begin with, so might not be an issue.
I’d rather get forged from here on in, as can get a lower and lighter setup. With cast you can only go higher and never lighter.
There's the answer, thank you!
The kp clearance seemed fine, at least it didn't look fucked
Luckily these franken-indys were just spare parts hanging around but Im definitely keeping forged in mind for next time
I set an 8.4 deck up after years of riding 8.5+ so these were the only hangars I had that would fit decent
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What are the effects of putting Mindy 149 hangars on Stg 11 standard baseplates? I frankenstien'd a pair together because I wasn't vibing w/ the inverted kingpin but still wanted to ride the hangars that fit perfect on a new set-up.
I guess the easy way to ask is - is there a major difference between the two noted model's baseplates? Or is any difference minor enough to forgot?
Maybe already addressed in the thread, but I wasn't sure how to search it....
whats a "Mindy hanger"? the baseplates are what dictate height of stage 11 cast, forged and mids AFAIK.
the hangar from an Indy Mid - is that not the usual slang?
Either way, i didn't know if the baseplate or hangar affected the geo
If its just the baseplate that determines height, they should just basically be a stage 11 standard then?
yeah, i see that now, M149. i thought they were just using a stage 11 hanger on lower changed geo baseplates, with lower bushings. i haven't looked at mids since they came out.
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by brent atchley in a satori ad
That clip is all time awesome, blacked out board multi colour wheels
looks like he’s on a regular board, albeit a small one. very sick. those trucks look good and i bought them because of that
I mean, the thumbnail has a black board but maybe
https://youtu.be/nv9Iz-UJv9c?si=AQ1d3fiWw1DuZNqi
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What are the effects of putting Mindy 149 hangars on Stg 11 standard baseplates? I frankenstien'd a pair together because I wasn't vibing w/ the inverted kingpin but still wanted to ride the hangars that fit perfect on a new set-up.
I guess the easy way to ask is - is there a major difference between the two noted model's baseplates? Or is any difference minor enough to forgot?
Maybe already addressed in the thread, but I wasn't sure how to search it....
whats a "Mindy hanger"? the baseplates are what dictate height of stage 11 cast, forged and mids AFAIK.
the hangar from an Indy Mid - is that not the usual slang?
Either way, i didn't know if the baseplate or hangar affected the geo
If its just the baseplate that determines height, they should just basically be a stage 11 standard then?
On mids and lows you can use/have either baseplate. There are currently only 4 baseplate options. Cast and forged. On mids they throw in the inverted kingpin.
The geo is all in the hanger.
I imagine you’ll get less kp clearance with your frankied trucks, but mid come with the most to begin with, so might not be an issue.
I’d rather get forged from here on in, as can get a lower and lighter setup. With cast you can only go higher and never lighter.
The kp clearance seemed fine, at least it didn't look fucked
Luckily these franken-indys were just spare parts hanging around but Im definitely keeping forged in mind for next time
I set an 8.4 deck up after years of riding 8.5+ so these were the only hangars I had that would fit decent
Were you riding 159s, 151, etc. on your 8.5+ models? Is that why you sought out the Mid Indy 149 and not use an existing 149?
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Is anyone from Indy here listening? Please reissue indy low in hollows or make the indy mid in hollow without all that extra weight from he extra on the hanger. I'll buy a dozen pairs if you do!
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If the Forged mids had a normal kingpin or it didn't slip I'd be interested.
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Is anyone from Indy here listening? Please reissue indy low in hollows or make the indy mid in hollow without all that extra weight from he extra on the hanger. I'll buy a dozen pairs if you do!
DM them like a man
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What are the effects of putting Mindy 149 hangars on Stg 11 standard baseplates? I frankenstien'd a pair together because I wasn't vibing w/ the inverted kingpin but still wanted to ride the hangars that fit perfect on a new set-up.
I guess the easy way to ask is - is there a major difference between the two noted model's baseplates? Or is any difference minor enough to forgot?
Maybe already addressed in the thread, but I wasn't sure how to search it....
whats a "Mindy hanger"? the baseplates are what dictate height of stage 11 cast, forged and mids AFAIK.
the hangar from an Indy Mid - is that not the usual slang?
Either way, i didn't know if the baseplate or hangar affected the geo
If its just the baseplate that determines height, they should just basically be a stage 11 standard then?
On mids and lows you can use/have either baseplate. There are currently only 4 baseplate options. Cast and forged. On mids they throw in the inverted kingpin.
The geo is all in the hanger.
I imagine you’ll get less kp clearance with your frankied trucks, but mid come with the most to begin with, so might not be an issue.
I’d rather get forged from here on in, as can get a lower and lighter setup. With cast you can only go higher and never lighter.
The kp clearance seemed fine, at least it didn't look fucked
Luckily these franken-indys were just spare parts hanging around but Im definitely keeping forged in mind for next time
I set an 8.4 deck up after years of riding 8.5+ so these were the only hangars I had that would fit decent
Were you riding 159s, 151, etc. on your 8.5+ models? Is that why you sought out the Mid Indy 149 and not use an existing 149?
149 standard was my go-to until I got 159s - rode those for a few years, then got some AF1 66s as a gift so i rode ~9" for a while. Loved the Aces but they are big and were kinda limiting me.
I wanted to try the mid indy, and 149 to go back to smaller trucks. I just couldn't tell if the inv. kingpin was backing out or not, and it was tripping me out so i mostly said fuck the base plates
Just had a session on the frankenstein trucks and they felt like home
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(https://i.ibb.co/jDp0nMW/IMG-20230831-161728210.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDp0nMW)
Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
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(https://i.ibb.co/jDp0nMW/IMG-20230831-161728210.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDp0nMW)
Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
Nah man, Indy’s are “guaranteed 4 LYFE”
In reality they’re warranted until they are proportionately fucked.
I’d get in touch with customer service since those trucks doesn’t look too worn.
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Yeah, warranty or not, they sold what’s essentially a defective product to thousands of people. It’s only a matter of time before someone really gets hurt due to the random catastrophic failure of these Ti rods.
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Yeah, warranty or not, they sold what’s essentially a defective product to thousands of people. It’s only a matter of time before someone really gets hurt due to the random catastrophic failure of these Ti rods.
Seriously, I'm just glad this happened when I was putting a board together and not actually skating. Between this and the mids being garbage, I think I'm just gonna go back to Thunder.
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(https://i.ibb.co/jDp0nMW/IMG-20230831-161728210.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDp0nMW)
Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
Ti axles on anything post 2020 seem to be anything but trustworthy, as you are just one of many who have had similar things happen.
First point of call is the shop where you got them, if possible, as they tend to have more options rather than you just going to the NHS warranty page and filling out the form.
As others said, the truck doesn't look heavily used, so although the time frame might be a little long, the life of the truck is far from done there, so that should be good grounds for a warranty.
Lots of these have been warrantied in the past, so if nothing is able to come from it, others have bought a new set, waited a while and then sent the old ones back for warranty, which might sound bad, but it is getting the replacement for a known faulty product that some people and places might not want to deal with, as I had seen and heard from other experiences.
Meanwhile, you can either return, sell, trade your new ones if you don't want to ride them any more, or get plain hollow instead, which don't seem to have any issues and still skate great, or standards for that matter, although some people do find they don't like the weight of them in the wider sizes.
A few options anyway.
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(https://i.ibb.co/jDp0nMW/IMG-20230831-161728210.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDp0nMW)
Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
Ti axles on anything post 2020 seem to be anything but trustworthy, as you are just one of many who have had similar things happen.
First point of call is the shop where you got them, if possible, as they tend to have more options rather than you just going to the NHS warranty page and filling out the form.
As others said, the truck doesn't look heavily used, so although the time frame might be a little long, the life of the truck is far from done there, so that should be good grounds for a warranty.
Lots of these have been warrantied in the past, so if nothing is able to come from it, others have bought a new set, waited a while and then sent the old ones back for warranty, which might sound bad, but it is getting the replacement for a known faulty product that some people and places might not want to deal with, as I had seen and heard from other experiences.
Meanwhile, you can either return, sell, trade your new ones if you don't want to ride them any more, or get plain hollow instead, which don't seem to have any issues and still skate great, or standards for that matter, although some people do find they don't like the weight of them in the wider sizes.
A few options anyway.
I appreciate the reply, I think I'm just gonna cut my losses for the time being but I'll probably send them in and bless a homie with the new set. I have a set of hollow 169 hangers I'm gonna skate for the meantime but I'm thinking about trying out a different brand all together.
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(https://i.ibb.co/jDp0nMW/IMG-20230831-161728210.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDp0nMW)
Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
Ti axles on anything post 2020 seem to be anything but trustworthy, as you are just one of many who have had similar things happen.
First point of call is the shop where you got them, if possible, as they tend to have more options rather than you just going to the NHS warranty page and filling out the form.
As others said, the truck doesn't look heavily used, so although the time frame might be a little long, the life of the truck is far from done there, so that should be good grounds for a warranty.
Lots of these have been warrantied in the past, so if nothing is able to come from it, others have bought a new set, waited a while and then sent the old ones back for warranty, which might sound bad, but it is getting the replacement for a known faulty product that some people and places might not want to deal with, as I had seen and heard from other experiences.
Meanwhile, you can either return, sell, trade your new ones if you don't want to ride them any more, or get plain hollow instead, which don't seem to have any issues and still skate great, or standards for that matter, although some people do find they don't like the weight of them in the wider sizes.
A few options anyway.
I appreciate the reply, I think I'm just gonna cut my losses for the time being but I'll probably send them in and bless a homie with the new set. I have a set of hollow 169 hangers I'm gonna skate for the meantime but I'm thinking about trying out a different brand all together.
For sure!
You would definitely not be the first to break some and then think I am happier on other brand trucks entirely.
I like Indy standards the most out of everything I skate and stay clear of the ti axles on everything really, even though I have a few sets pre 2020 that are still going strong, all second hand from others.
Also wanted to say I have no brand links / loyalty in that regard, so whatever you find that works best for you, but at least there are a good number of 9" trucks out there now, be it Indy, Thunder, Ace, Slappy or almost any others that should not have the same issues as the Indy ti axle trucks.
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(https://i.ibb.co/jDp0nMW/IMG-20230831-161728210.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDp0nMW)
Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
considering Indy knows about their defective Ti axles batch (batches maybe), you should try the warranty claim
maybe with the shop first
or on your own here
https://nhsforms.wufoo.com/forms/warranty-form-revised/
you should get a free pair of trucks with ease (deservedly so)
And i'm pretty sure you will not need to send your trucks back
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Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
considering Indy knows about their defective Ti axles batch (batches maybe), you should try the warranty claim
maybe with the shop first
or on your own here
https://nhsforms.wufoo.com/forms/warranty-form-revised/
you should get a free pair of trucks with ease (deservedly so)
And i'm pretty sure you will not need to send your trucks back
Thankfully now most warranty claims don't need return of product, just pictures, as per the last couple I had put in for people.
Some distos are a bit funny on it though and want the product back, maybe more so to stop repeat occurrences of warranty claims on the same product.
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(https://i.ibb.co/jDp0nMW/IMG-20230831-161728210.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jDp0nMW)
Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
considering Indy knows about their defective Ti axles batch (batches maybe), you should try the warranty claim
maybe with the shop first
or on your own here
https://nhsforms.wufoo.com/forms/warranty-form-revised/
you should get a free pair of trucks with ease (deservedly so)
And i'm pretty sure you will not need to send your trucks back
Thanks for the link, I went ahead and submitted it through NHS.
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Bros... Please man I'm so scared... My 159 Indy titaniums have been so freeeeeking fun (been skating em for like 4 months now). Doing some of my most best and most consistent skating of my life thus far (seriously im ripping like whaaaat for real for real)...
Ignorance was bliss.
Now I just keep seeing all of this stuff about the titanium axles snapping on people who are like pretty much just skating flat ground lol and now I'm scared for my life. It's quite a predicament because I'm feeling the most comfortable with my setup for first time in like 4 years. But I'd be pretty bummed to get served up going fast due to a gear failure... Should I throw my Indy Titaniums in the trash?
I'd appreciate any input on what I should do.
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I’m sort of in the same boat—just wrapping up on my pre Covid/iron cross set of Ti 159’s and have a post-Covid/cross replacement pair but am scared they’ll break while skating :( recently got some stage IV but obviously a very different truck. I was just about to say, if they haven’t broke yet they’re probably fine, but the poster up thread seems to have had their trucks for quite some time before they randomly snapped. Such a bummer to say the least.
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Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
considering Indy knows about their defective Ti axles batch (batches maybe), you should try the warranty claim
maybe with the shop first
or on your own here
https://nhsforms.wufoo.com/forms/warranty-form-revised/
you should get a free pair of trucks with ease (deservedly so)
And i'm pretty sure you will not need to send your trucks back
Thankfully now most warranty claims don't need return of product, just pictures, as per the last couple I had put in for people.
Some distos are a bit funny on it though and want the product back, maybe more so to stop repeat occurrences of warranty claims on the same product.
I did warranty work in the bike industry and, to avoid this issue, it was pretty standard to require return of some fragment of the bike or else send photos of the bike or component physically destroyed.
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Had this happen yesterday. I was changing out my wheels and deck and when I went to tighten my axle nut down the axle just broke off lol. These are ~2 year old Titanium 169 so I'm guessing it's not under warranty but I wanted to know if there's anything I could do through NHS.
considering Indy knows about their defective Ti axles batch (batches maybe), you should try the warranty claim
maybe with the shop first
or on your own here
https://nhsforms.wufoo.com/forms/warranty-form-revised/
you should get a free pair of trucks with ease (deservedly so)
And i'm pretty sure you will not need to send your trucks back
Thankfully now most warranty claims don't need return of product, just pictures, as per the last couple I had put in for people.
Some distos are a bit funny on it though and want the product back, maybe more so to stop repeat occurrences of warranty claims on the same product.
I did warranty work in the bike industry and, to avoid this issue, it was pretty standard to require return of some fragment of the bike or else send photos of the bike or component physically destroyed.
Of two distros I have dealt with more recently, one was photos only and nothing else, the other was return of product to "verify the issue with the manufacturer" or something like that, which I guess is just to say they didn't believe me or wanted to make sure they didn't have to deal with a recurring issue of returning the same thing again down the line.
Definitely get why they would. Some skaters over the years would break things on purpose just to get replacements when they felt like it, eg dropping big rocks on the board or something to bend axles. Pretty stupid on the part of that guy, but I guess people will do anything not to have to pay for skate product.
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I recently got my hands on some Stage 11 lows in 139. Does anyone know anything about these? I know that Indy hasn't put out lows in a while. Did they stop producing lows when they switched over to Stage 11 mark 2, or when they moved production out of the US? Do they turn well? Do you think I could resell them for a good price, or should I just skate them? I got them off of an old setup given to me by someone who doesn't skate and there are almost no grind marks on them. I didn't skate the board after I got it, I immediately took it apart to harvest the Indys for another setup and didn't realize they were lows until I saw the retail sticker on the bottom of one of the baseplates.
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I recently got my hands on some Stage 11 lows in 139. Does anyone know anything about these? I know that Indy hasn't put out lows in a while. Did they stop producing lows when they switched over to Stage 11 mark 2, or when they moved production out of the US? Do they turn well? Do you think I could resell them for a good price, or should I just skate them? I got them off of an old setup given to me by someone who doesn't skate and there are almost no grind marks on them. I didn't skate the board after I got it, I immediately took it apart to harvest the Indys for another setup and didn't realize they were lows until I saw the retail sticker on the bottom of one of the baseplates.
I can't remember exactly when they stopped making them but it was well before anything to do with the change in production (around 2018) or the plain baseplate (no cross in 2020) or anything else. Stage 11 came out in 2012 and I feel like they were gone by 2015 or so, definitely well before the 144s came out in 2017, but everything to do with the low versions didn't really register on my radar the way some other products did.
The set I have has a hollow kingpin and axle, orange bushings, normal shaped hanger but some of the other (maybe just the older stages) had the very tapered hanger with red bushings, all with USA still under the baseplate too.
Overall they are a very low truck, lower kingpin and also lower top bushing than any current options, but they still turn like a normal Indy, as long as the bushings haven't been cranked down or hardened up to the point where they just don't work.
Putting any other normal bushing in is near impossible and they will be ultra tight, but cutting down the top bushing or using a low bushing set like old Indy aftermarket bushings, Venture loose truck kit or similar will work well in them.
I am guessing there is a small market for them, so finding the right buyer you might make some money on them, but who knows if or when that could be, so depending on whether or not you even want low trucks, it might be better to list them and sit on them until someone offers you something worthwhile, or whatever, but they are not crazy collectable and high dollar items, as far as I could see from the interest in the ones I bought and seeing others for sale online.
Hope that helps a bit anyway.
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I recently got my hands on some Stage 11 lows in 139. Does anyone know anything about these? I know that Indy hasn't put out lows in a while. Did they stop producing lows when they switched over to Stage 11 mark 2, or when they moved production out of the US? Do they turn well? Do you think I could resell them for a good price, or should I just skate them? I got them off of an old setup given to me by someone who doesn't skate and there are almost no grind marks on them. I didn't skate the board after I got it, I immediately took it apart to harvest the Indys for another setup and didn't realize they were lows until I saw the retail sticker on the bottom of one of the baseplates.
I too have 139 STG 11 hollow lows, mine are the white/green Leo Romero.
I got them from a board I found a second hand. I can’t skate an 8”. But that board got me into skating again. But I also sprained my knee on it. So kind of ambivalent about it. Every truck turns when I step on them, these ones just kind of ate the top bushings.
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I am getting back on standards.
I rode 144 TI's and despite the weight I'm disapointed.The plate is to thin and fragile.The bolts holes enlarge and get deformed easily with shocks.I also had pivot cups issues, the nib of hanger seem to pointy and to loos in the cup.It ruined many cups since i got them and never had to change cups so often in the past.
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Yeah, I keep waiting for more people to bring that hanger / pivot cavity issue up… the new ones almost have like vertical play in the pivot area… like something doesn’t fit right.
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
All Indy Stage XI bushings are the same height.
I noticed the same thing about FH at first but end up back on Thunders every time.
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
All Indy Stage XI bushings are the same height.
I noticed the same thing about FH at first but end up back on Thunders every time.
I was wondering since they’re 1.5mm shorter (I know it’s just the baseplate height), if the geo/bushing height might be different in forged vs the aftermarket bushing kits.
I’ve been lost in the madness sauce for a while. I used to be a set it and forget it guy, I’m trying to get back to that since I spend more time tinkering with my setups than actually skating, and my skating is taking a hit because of it.
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
Just a heads up im 6 ft 175lbs and I just tried the 92a blue barrel indy bushings today and it was wheelbite city. I cranked them down to the point my kingpin nut was showing 2 threads and I still got wheelbite. Will try the black 94a next.
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
Just a heads up im 6 ft 175lbs and I just tried the 92a blue barrel indy bushings today and it was wheelbite city. I cranked them down to the point my kingpin nut was showing 2 threads and I still got wheelbite. Will try the black 94a next.
Good to know! I just ordered a set, we’ll see how I do on them. I’m 5’9” and down to 140lbs after a recent surfing trip (was eating pretty healthy, but not a lot, and surfing burns mad calories)
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I'm 5'9 / 145-ish lbs and love blue barrels in both my Indys and surfing.
Remember to break them in properly, they will feel surprisingly soft and squirrelly at first but give them a bit of time and don't crank them up instantly. They'll stiffen up and feel nice and solid. I run forged baseplates in my Indys.
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
Just a heads up im 6 ft 175lbs and I just tried the 92a blue barrel indy bushings today and it was wheelbite city. I cranked them down to the point my kingpin nut was showing 2 threads and I still got wheelbite. Will try the black 94a next.
That's really odd because I've used 90 the orange stock barrel bushings in my indys and I only get wheel bite city when they're brand new untouched or broken in at two threads showing or less. At two threads i dont get wheelbite anymore unless I really land heavy toe or heel side jumping off something. I have 92s I'm gonna try and I'm expecting them to be nowhere near as wheel bitey as your experience.
I'm 5' 10" at 190lbs btw
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Risers y'all. Don't be scared. 52-55mm wheels use 1/8". 56mm+ try out 1/4". You can run stock or medium-hard aftermarkets and not need to get rock hard bushings which diminish the turn.
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I don't want a truck that tall. Risers and Indy's would be 58mm tall, a full 5-6mm above what I consider comfortable. I'm not against risers, but should my have to resort to them for wheelbite since there are tons of good bushings out for various trucks.
Honestly the 92A are not THAT much harder than stock. I had a thread to 1.5 showing and stock it's 2-2.5 for about the same. The weird thing is I tried the black 94s flush and they were rocks. The blues definitely do firm up.
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I'm 5'9 / 145-ish lbs and love blue barrels in both my Indys and surfing.
Remember to break them in properly, they will feel surprisingly soft and squirrelly at first but give them a bit of time and don't crank them up instantly. They'll stiffen up and feel nice and solid. I run forged baseplates in my Indys.
I like the bolt exactly flush with the kingpin and just get different bushings according to how tight/loose I want them to feel. I’m a pretty “medium-loose” guy.
Also… surfing is just like skating with super loose trucks on water. I might be more addicted to surfing now. Hopefully you live in a place that’s got good surf. I live in WA now, and it’s 3 hours to 4/3 wetsuit mush at La Push.
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I'm 5'9 / 145-ish lbs and love blue barrels in both my Indys and surfing.
Remember to break them in properly, they will feel surprisingly soft and squirrelly at first but give them a bit of time and don't crank them up instantly. They'll stiffen up and feel nice and solid. I run forged baseplates in my Indys.
I like the bolt exactly flush with the kingpin and just get different bushings according to how tight/loose I want them to feel. I’m a pretty “medium-loose” guy.
Also… surfing is just like skating with super loose trucks on water. I might be more addicted to surfing now. Hopefully you live in a place that’s got good surf. I live in WA now, and it’s 3 hours to 4/3 wetsuit mush at La Push.
To me it's the other way around, been surfing for 15+ years and just got back to skating a couple of years ago. Totally addicted to skating these days, surfing has taken a smaller role definitely.
And as for waves, we pretty much only get windswell. My nearest spot is about an hour away, which feels like an effort for waves that are not too amazing most of the time. But it's a blessing to be able to do it, regardless.
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Hi guys
I rode 144's TI and just got back to 144's STD.
I have mixed feelings about TI's.They are the lightests ok,but to me the weight ain't the main thing to look at.
I had some deformations on both nuts holes on those TI's thinner plates...Also, I noticed the hangers nibs on TI's are a bit pointier than usual indys.This tends to make the hanger a bit looser and on those had to replace cups too which I rarely do on standards.
Curious to have your feedback, cheers;)
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250 lbs pro wrestler here. If you want your Indy’s nice and stable on center and make them difficult to wheelbite, I can recommend my setup.
One has an Indy 96a yellow bushing and the other a mini logo 100a.
Both has a Bones hard on top.
The extra cuppy washer on the bottom makes it firm up a lot more at the outer ranges of the turn. Works wonders for limiting the turn to only the usable part of the range.
Tighten down as necessary.
(https://i.ibb.co/xC4KVp1/IMG-2842.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xC4KVp1)
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
Just a heads up im 6 ft 175lbs and I just tried the 92a blue barrel indy bushings today and it was wheelbite city. I cranked them down to the point my kingpin nut was showing 2 threads and I still got wheelbite. Will try the black 94a next.
Good to know! I just ordered a set, we’ll see how I do on them. I’m 5’9” and down to 140lbs after a recent surfing trip (was eating pretty healthy, but not a lot, and surfing burns mad calories)
I love the black Indy bushings. They are stable but you still get a good turn/carve without having to tighten the nut past 1 thread showing. I'm 5'11'' and 185lbs though so idk how you will like it.
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I put wax on the bushings so they wouldn't squeak anymore, it worked, maybe even a little too loose ! ;D But since I did this, I have a truck that loosens too much and my bolt loosens itself after a while (As if it wasn't screwed in and as if the truck bolt was going to fall off.) and I have to tighten a lot.. Anyone had the same problem ? Is it the fact of having used too much wax ? :-\
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I put wax on the bushings so they wouldn't squeak anymore, it worked, maybe even a little too loose ! ;D But since I did this, I have a truck that loosens too much and my bolt loosens itself after a while (As if it wasn't screwed in and as if the truck bolt was going to fall off.) and I have to tighten a lot.. Anyone had the same problem ? Is it the fact of having used too much wax ? :-\
The nylock on your nut is bad. You probably just need a new screw.
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(https://i.ibb.co/mtRy5pP/IMG-1797.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mtRy5pP)
Update on the blue 92a’s on my Indy’s (cafe board) in comparison to my thunders on the FA. These boards are both full shapes, 8.25, similar WB, spitfire f4 wheels and Swiss bearings. Only difference is the trucks.
The blue 92a indy bushings feel identical to the blue Thunder 94a’s I have on the FA. Exactly what I was going for. I had to sand down the bottom bushing until it was identical in height to the original orange indy bushings that came in my forged hollows. Before that, they were too stiff. Now I’m getting an identical turn out of both of these trucks. I can tail slide better with the Indy’s because my wheels don’t hit the ledge, and get a higher pop with them because of the 1.5mm of extra height. The thunders however I’m way more dialed with my flip tricks and pinchy grinds. Better at quick hits with the thunders, and loooooong grinds on the Indy’s. Regardless I love them both in different respects. The thunders almost feel looser because of the conical bottom bushings, so I can do that little swerve and get into back tails easier, but I’ll slide further with the Indy’s. Overall I’m better at doing different tricks on either of these setups. Still trying to decide which I like more, but I love them both.
To sum it up, the aftermarket 92a indy bushings are slightly taller in the bottom barrel than the stock bushings (at least w/ forged plates). Sanded them down, now they turn more. If you’re looking to still turn but want stability while setting up for tricks, these do the job. I got what I wanted out of them.
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Honestly man this will sound like a total dick comment but neither of your decks has evidence of tailslides it looks like marks from stalls and drop ins. You make it sound like there's a huge dramatic difference, but it seems neither board has really slid much on the tail.
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Honestly man this will sound like a total dick comment but neither of your decks has evidence of tailslides it looks like marks from stalls and drop ins. You make it sound like there's a huge dramatic difference, but it seems neither board has really slid much on the tail.
I notice that the park I skate has super waxed ledges and only leaves faint marks on my board, skating there doesn’t scrape off the graphics. Dropping in from this concrete ledge-to-bank at another park makes my tail look like that.
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I put wax on the bushings so they wouldn't squeak anymore, it worked, maybe even a little too loose ! ;D But since I did this, I have a truck that loosens too much and my bolt loosens itself after a while (As if it wasn't screwed in and as if the truck bolt was going to fall off.) and I have to tighten a lot.. Anyone had the same problem ? Is it the fact of having used too much wax ? :-\
New nut, not new screw, but yes that is the thing I was thinking, as long as the kingpin nut is completely on and not just half on or finger tight, but you can check that yourself, just by taking everything else off and putting the kiingpin nut back on and tighten it down by hand first. If it goes all the way on (or off) by hand, then get a new kingpin nut.
Also mark it on one face and keep an eye on it to see if it is actually moving, or more just in your mind, but I know certain tricks used to move the nut as bushings compress with side to side movement too.
I had friends who would always have the nut only half on and they would always complain about it. The most common solution there is either cut the top bushing to help it fit, or get softer bushings and get that nut completely on, which will allow for more clearance and less possibility of the nut coming off mid skate and you ending up on the ground.
Trimming the top bushing a single mm works wonders in that area.
That is all based on a normal kinpgin setup. If you have the inverted kingpins, then you have a different problem - loctite or something will help there, as per other people talking about it in the Indy mid thread.
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Welp, my 159 Hollows have axle slip. I’ve had them since July 2022. For some reason it’s happening more often since I started flipping my board. Don’t feel like upgrading since it’s about to be winter, but don’t want to stop in middle of a session to loosen my trucks.
The back wheel gets so tight that it’s stopped me a few times. Not like a pebble, but enough to make me no longer trust this set of trucks 😖
Gonna grab a new set and swap out the bushings. Maybe they’ll feel the same. Who knows, might move up to 169 (on an 8.5 inch deck) lol
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thanks Mbrimson88 and Creachteach for the indy low insight. I ended up putting them on a setup. So far I'm liking them but they're tight as fuck, I think it's cuz the bushings are so old. I swapped them out for some fresh ones, I haven't tried em since but hopefully they turn a little more.
I was wondering, do y'all know if the Indy Stage 11 lows share the same baseplate to the standard height Stage 11s? The kingpin clearance is awful on these so I was thinking of swapping in the IKP baseplates that I have.
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The cast IKP plates are flagged as ‘universal’
“ Convert any Independent truck to an inverted kingpin setup for better grind clearance. ”
Good luck!
People have swapped mid hangers and plates, McCoy is riding stage iv hangers on forged plates…people over think it…the right bushing height will probably be more important.
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Yah to add to that if you are swapping don't make it a precise laboratory grade science experiment. Get it close enough by eyeballing it, see how it rides, and you should likely be fine. People alter hanger angles by cranking their trucks, replacing bushings with Bones/removing the bottom washer, all sorts of stuff. As long as the yoke angle aligns mostly with the pivot cup and the hanger hole doesn't bind on the kingpin, it shall turn.
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Yah to add to that if you are swapping don't make it a precise laboratory grade science experiment. Get it close enough by eyeballing it, see how it rides, and you should likely be fine. People alter hanger angles by cranking their trucks, replacing bushings with Bones/removing the bottom washer, all sorts of stuff. As long as the yoke angle aligns mostly with the pivot cup and the hanger hole doesn't bind on the kingpin, it shall turn.
I just want my trucks to turn the way they're designed. I get that it's normal to alter the truck's geometry but I don't want to do that. If I didn't care about accuracy, I would have went ahead and tried it without asking about it, but to a certain extent I do care about accuracy, at least until I find that there can be some functional improvement that can be made through modification.
The cast IKP plates are flagged as ‘universal’
“ Convert any Independent truck to an inverted kingpin setup for better grind clearance. ”
Good luck!
People have swapped mid hangers and plates, McCoy is riding stage iv hangers on forged plates…people over think it…the right bushing height will probably be more important.
I figured that the IKP plates could be considered universal because they came out a long while after the lows were discontinued, so Indy didn't have to note whether they were or weren't compatible with those because they might as well not even exist as far as Indy is concerned.
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Welp, my 159 Hollows have axle slip. I’ve had them since July 2022. For some reason it’s happening more often since I started flipping my board. Don’t feel like upgrading since it’s about to be winter, but don’t want to stop in middle of a session to loosen my trucks.
The back wheel gets so tight that it’s stopped me a few times. Not like a pebble, but enough to make me no longer trust this set of trucks 😖
Gonna grab a new set and swap out the bushings. Maybe they’ll feel the same. Who knows, might move up to 169 (on an 8.5 inch deck) lol
Are you sure it is axle slip?
There seem to be a lot of wheels coming out of bearings issues which would usually have the same effect - wheel stops spinning easily.
Sit the board up on its side, axle on the ground and then push your wheel down, then pull it up to see if the bearings are seated correctly.
I honestly can't think of any current Indy (or other top brand truck) that has had axle slip in recent years, but I have seen a lot of wheels with bearing seats that are too big, so the bearings move in the wheels.
Not doubting you but check this first.
What wheels and bearings are you running? Spitfire Formula Four have been pretty big on the bearings moving of late, as per quite a few sets I have had too.
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If you want your trucks to turn as designed you would use the stock hanger and baseplates and mix/match the Indy replacement bushings to facilitate the turning.
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If you want your trucks to turn as designed you would use the stock hanger and baseplates and mix/match the Indy replacement bushings to facilitate the turning.
That's what I've done so far, but the kingpin clearance sucks, which is why I was asking about the IKP baseplates.
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Yah to add to that if you are swapping don't make it a precise laboratory grade science experiment. Get it close enough by eyeballing it, see how it rides, and you should likely be fine. People alter hanger angles by cranking their trucks, replacing bushings with Bones/removing the bottom washer, all sorts of stuff. As long as the yoke angle aligns mostly with the pivot cup and the hanger hole doesn't bind on the kingpin, it shall turn.
I just want my trucks to turn the way they're designed. I get that it's normal to alter the truck's geometry but I don't want to do that. If I didn't care about accuracy, I would have went ahead and tried it without asking about it, but to a certain extent I do care about accuracy, at least until I find that there can be some functional improvement that can be made through modification.
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The cast IKP plates are flagged as ‘universal’
“ Convert any Independent truck to an inverted kingpin setup for better grind clearance. ”
Good luck!
People have swapped mid hangers and plates, McCoy is riding stage iv hangers on forged plates…people over think it…the right bushing height will probably be more important.
I figured that the IKP plates could be considered universal because they came out a long while after the lows were discontinued, so Indy didn't have to note whether they were or weren't compatible with those because they might as well not even exist as far as Indy is concerned.
Yeah all of that adds up.
I can't remember what i had posted before, but when I played mix and match with all the different parts, the main thing was the bushings - lows needed a lower head to fit on the lower kingpin - with pretty much everything else the same.
Normal bushings will fit fine in the inverted kingpin with the low hangers, which does make it easier to go with any option of bushings, rather than having to use cut down tops, or try to squeeze bushings onto lower kingpins.
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With your experience, for those who skate or have skated the indy forged hollows 139, what is the best board to fit with them ? :)
I just skated a real 8.06 standard with a length of 31.8 and 14.3 wheelbase, despite the long board for my small size, I really liked it, and I didn't have any trouble skating ! But if I have the possibility, a smaller length would still be more beneficial for me for some Tricks, like switch flips or 360 flips.
I hesitate to return to Baker, because I have the impression that Indy and Baker fit together perfectly !
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With your experience, for those who skate or have skated the indy forged hollows 139, what is the best board to fit with them ? :)
I just skated a real 8.06 standard with a length of 31.8 and 14.3 wheelbase, despite the long board for my small size, I really liked it, and I didn't have any trouble skating ! But if I have the possibility, a smaller length would still be more beneficial for me for some Tricks, like switch flips or 360 flips.
I hesitate to return to Baker, because I have the impression that Indy and Baker fit together perfectly !
I'd imagine Primitive, Baker, Hockey/FA (non blunted shape: "Shape 2"), and April in the 8.0 - 8.125 range would work well, since all of those work well with 8.5 on Indy forged Hollow 149 for me. Especially if the shapes you like have longer WB, since Indy brings it in a bit to even it out
I've skated 139 forged Hollow 11-12 years ago on AntiHero and Real with good success: 8.06 or 8.25 if I recall correctly.
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With your experience, for those who skate or have skated the indy forged hollows 139, what is the best board to fit with them ? :)
I just skated a real 8.06 standard with a length of 31.8 and 14.3 wheelbase, despite the long board for my small size, I really liked it, and I didn't have any trouble skating ! But if I have the possibility, a smaller length would still be more beneficial for me for some Tricks, like switch flips or 360 flips.
I hesitate to return to Baker, because I have the impression that Indy and Baker fit together perfectly !
I'd imagine Primitive, Baker, Hockey/FA (non blunted shape: "Shape 2"), and April in the 8.0 - 8.125 range would work well, since all of those work well with 8.5 on Indy forged Hollow 149 for me. Especially if the shapes you like have longer WB, since Indy brings it in a bit to even it out
I've skated 139 forged Hollow 11-12 years ago on AntiHero and Real with good success: 8.06 or 8.25 if I recall correctly.
Thank you for this answer ! I hesitate too for a Girl deck 31.5 with 14 WB !
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Carlos Indy clip
https://youtu.be/UqkTO0SBsC4?si=gKHyk82PmfhYnW3D
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(https://i.ibb.co/ysy4XR0/IMG-20231020-152322-668.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfR6r5s)
(https://i.ibb.co/FxLFLJK/IMG-20231020-152338-488.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YRFxF83)
(https://i.ibb.co/GCMcpZG/IMG-20231020-152345-684.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CV9h8j4)
(https://i.ibb.co/jJSwtKS/IMG-20231020-152357-268.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tL92Rf9)
What should I do with these?
I was thinking of trying to find someone with 6.1s that doesn't like um and trade up but kids definitely don't want sub 139s of any condition.
Second choice was to hang on to them for another decade see if the baby bloards come back a lil more tryto sell.
3rd would be set up a freestyle board or get a super wide wheel and make a lil pool smasher.
4th put um on a bloard and give them to a Grom at Lynch who's just starting out and has like a plastic crap bloard.
What do pals think?
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129s?
stage 10?
wenning cosplay. set up the 7.4 with some 49s. switch tre on everyone
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What should I do with these?
I was thinking of trying to find someone with 6.1s that doesn't like um and trade up but kids definitely don't want sub 139s of any condition.
Second choice was to hang on to them for another decade see if the baby bloards come back a lil more tryto sell.
3rd would be set up a freestyle board or get a super wide wheel and make a lil pool smasher.
4th put um on a bloard and give them to a Grom at Lynch who's just starting out and has like a plastic crap bloard.
What do pals think?
You have there what appear to be some Stage 8 126 or at most 136 trucks.
STAGE 8 - 1998
6 HOLES mounting base plate with cross logo added.
Introduced the 126mm truck (Duralites)
Reduced material on hanger wing to lighten up truck. Introduced new baseplate / kingpin design rendering inverted kingpin use impossible.
Stage VIII - original release date 9/98
126 (new size)
136
146
156
166
stage I 101's and stage IV 215's still available
As to what to do with them, they might be better sold to a collector more so than set up on a board, given the current state of them, being almost new unused, so someone with a period correct 7.5 or so deck might like to add them to their collection, but as to how much or whatever, that is up to you to figure out, or more so up to how much someone would be willing to buy them for.
They would quite often be worth more than a set of any current stock trucks (including Venture 6.1s) but someone might be in a position to trade you a few things for them too.
Realistically, they don't ride all that well, compared to modern trucks, have zero kingpin clearance and even set up on a cruiser with mini cubic wheels or something that would make them fit better on a normal sized board, as I have done, they were just the sort of truck that would be best for someone to put on a display board, more so than set up and ride, but that is all personal opinion too.
At least now you know what you have there.
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Do forged sets and standards sets both have the same hanger? I have some standards that I want to make forged height and I have some extra forged baseplates.
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Do forged sets and standards sets both have the same hanger? I have some standards that I want to make forged height and I have some extra forged baseplates.
yep, mix and match all you'd like. I usually do the opposite, and I use the ti hangars on cast and cast-hollow plates
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Just dropping in to say: I just skated Thunders for a few months, and came back to Indy’s today.
These are the best mothafuckin trucks in the world. Fuck yeah!
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(https://i.ibb.co/ysy4XR0/IMG-20231020-152322-668.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfR6r5s)
(https://i.ibb.co/FxLFLJK/IMG-20231020-152338-488.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YRFxF83)
(https://i.ibb.co/GCMcpZG/IMG-20231020-152345-684.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CV9h8j4)
(https://i.ibb.co/jJSwtKS/IMG-20231020-152357-268.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tL92Rf9)
What should I do with these?
I was thinking of trying to find someone with 6.1s that doesn't like um and trade up but kids definitely don't want sub 139s of any condition.
Second choice was to hang on to them for another decade see if the baby bloards come back a lil more tryto sell.
3rd would be set up a freestyle board or get a super wide wheel and make a lil pool smasher.
4th put um on a bloard and give them to a Grom at Lynch who's just starting out and has like a plastic crap bloard.
What do pals think?
Put them in a glass case, and will them to your next of kin and let them worry about it.
You’ll regret losing those babies.
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Do forged sets and standards sets both have the same hanger? I have some standards that I want to make forged height and I have some extra forged baseplates.
yep, mix and match all you'd like. I usually do the opposite, and I use the ti hangars on cast and cast-hollow plates
Fuck yeah I just did that: ti hangar with cast base/normal kingpin. It’s nice to have that deep sound grind again. Forged was tinny.
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How heavy are the stage 4's compared to some hollows? I dont know a ton about trucks I only skate the same stage 11 hollows for as long as I can remember. I got some stage 4's because my buddy got me stoked on them but I never thought about how they aren't hollow. Will it be that big of a difference or will I not really notice?
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How heavy are the stage 4's compared to some hollows? I dont know a ton about trucks I only skate the same stage 11 hollows for as long as I can remember. I got some stage 4's because my buddy got me stoked on them but I never thought about how they aren't hollow. Will it be that big of a difference or will I not really notice?
Not quite the same but I went from titanium 159 to stage iv 151 and the weight difference is significant. Not that I've ever had monster pop but I am def having to put in more umph to get stuff off the ground and rotating lol, but worth it tho IMO, they turn and grind so well. I also like that they’re higher.
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thanks Mbrimson88 and Creachteach for the indy low insight. I ended up putting them on a setup. So far I'm liking them but they're tight as fuck, I think it's cuz the bushings are so old. I swapped them out for some fresh ones, I haven't tried em since but hopefully they turn a little more.
I was wondering, do y'all know if the Indy Stage 11 lows share the same baseplate to the standard height Stage 11s? The kingpin clearance is awful on these so I was thinking of swapping in the IKP baseplates that I have.
I’ve been riding a pair of Indy stage 11 lows with the cast IKP for the past 18 months, and they’re great. i would say stay as close as you can to the original height of the bottom bushings, I found that putting those venture green bushings with a lower head work great.
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Thanks yo
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It seems there's a Hollow IKP truck coming from Indy (Spring 2024).
Has it already been discussed ?
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It seems there's a Hollow IKP truck coming from Indy (Spring 2024).
Has it already been discussed ?
I don't think so, apart from people saying they wanted the lighter (hollow forged) options in the mid / IKP versions, from when they first came out.
Seem to recall others putting the Krux down low hollow kingpins on their Indy trucks, which seems like it is about the same, isn't it?
Also interesting that they are still doing the IKP even though they have known faults, with versions of the IKP on regular trucks, eg the Louie Lopez truck, which I saw the other day, someone skating the park I am at, so I got a good look at them when he needed bolts and a couple of things from the shop.
Guessing they put too much time and money into the IKP design and don't want to drop them, although having a stock kingpin with even just a few more threads seems like it would be way better. I tried a few different versions of older inverted kingpins in some I have and they feel a bit more manageable.
Are there more pro versions of the IKP coming out, be it mids or regulars?
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I am having withdrawal from the sheer joy of turning on INDYS.
Popping was extra high without even trying, too, with the 55mm height. More time for board to get vertical, I mean radical.
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Went skating today… the bushings got torn up, and I know why: when the truck turns all the way, the hanger is pinching the top bushing up against the top washer and cutting the top bushing.
Never knew that’s why they got “blown out”.
Learned something new, and now I need to put new bushing in.
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Went skating today… the bushings got torn up, and I know why: when the truck turns all the way, the hanger is pinching the top bushing up against the top washer and cutting the top bushing.
Never knew that’s why they got “blown out”.
Learned something new, and now I need to put new bushing in.
I feel like any bushings might have a greater chance of blowing out if they are not broken in nicely.
More so if you put new trucks or new bushings on, then just go skate as usual, there is a good chance they will blow out way faster, than if you took it very easy for the first few sessions, or just did things that didn't involve tightening them down much, heavy leans to either side and just had more of a cruiser type roll around, if that makes sense?
My first session or two on new bushings is usually on a very gentle mini ramp or carpark roll around, just getting them more worn in and not doing anything much that would put a lot of pressure on either side to cut or compress them too much.
Stock bushings are very soft and take a bit to firm up, especially the new Indy bushings, more so than the older ones, so often people will tighten them down some to start with, which then makes them cut into the top sides way more quickly.
Funny thing is I have kept a set of very chopped bushings from someone else, put them on a cruiser board and they still work perfectly well, although they are very loose with minimal sides on them.
Depending on what you prefer, maybe go for the harder blue 92 duro bushings, or mix and match a bit, just to try to work out what feels best.
Probably too much info, so sorry, maybe overstepping there, but I do see it a lot with people when they set up new boards, trucks or even just new bushings at the shop / park I am at.
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Nhs website has some tony hawk forged hollows on sale for 40 bucks and some other signature hollows for about 40 bucks. Thought id share incase people ain't browsing nhs site to ever see lol.
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I am having withdrawal from the sheer joy of turning on INDYS.
It's pretty fucked up that there are trucks which just don’t turn.
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Went skating today… the bushings got torn up, and I know why: when the truck turns all the way, the hanger is pinching the top bushing up against the top washer and cutting the top bushing.
Never knew that’s why they got “blown out”.
Learned something new, and now I need to put new bushing in.
If you have access to Ace bushings, replace the stock top washer with an Ace top washer. The profile is easier on the bushing. Also, the turn feels somehow smoother.
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I've got some stage 9 159's that have been on a cruiser, but I want to start actually skating and grinding on them, but the kingpin is ridiculously tall and I have no grind clearance. I was thinking of getting the inverted kingpin baseplates to use with them, but hesitant to spend money on these old trucks. Will they feel more like Stage 11's if I switch out the baseplate? I'm used to stage 11's and not sure what all has changed between the stages.
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I've got some stage 9 159's that have been on a cruiser, but I want to start actually skating and grinding on them, but the kingpin is ridiculously tall and I have no grind clearance. I was thinking of getting the inverted kingpin baseplates to use with them, but hesitant to spend money on these old trucks. Will they feel more like Stage 11's if I switch out the baseplate? I'm used to stage 11's and not sure what all has changed between the stages.
The Stage 9 hanger is lower in profile, only 53 or so mm tall, compared to the Stage 11 which is 55 mm tall. In saying that, the geometry of the older trucks is different to the newer ones, so they will never quite turn the same way as the current models.
You could do what I have done with some of my older trucks - run a cut down top bushing (optional depending on how you ride them) but definitely angle grind down the kingpin top once you have the bushings where you want them, which may or may not be possible with regular bushings.
The main thing is keeping the height of the bottom bushing and just cutting a mm from the lower part of the top bushing, or trying something like the Venture low / loose kit, which also worked really well.
The IKP baseplates will work with those hangers, as I had tried that too with some old Stage 9 trucks that the baseplates had broken and they do fit well enough together.
Do you have any other trucks to compare them with, swap hangers on current Indy trucks or anything?
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
Just a heads up im 6 ft 175lbs and I just tried the 92a blue barrel indy bushings today and it was wheelbite city. I cranked them down to the point my kingpin nut was showing 2 threads and I still got wheelbite. Will try the black 94a next.
Good to know! I just ordered a set, we’ll see how I do on them. I’m 5’9” and down to 140lbs after a recent surfing trip (was eating pretty healthy, but not a lot, and surfing burns mad calories)
How do that black ones break in? They feel stable yet turn (when I lean with all my weight) but low key scared that they’ll stiffen up. I’m about same weight as you and normally like to ride mid average tightness
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Has anyone run the blue 92a aftermarket bushings on forged baseplates? Curious if they’re the same height as the stock ones, I like the kingpin nut flush. I tried running Krux in mine, but the bottom bushing was taller and it threw off the geo, although they felt good. I’m coming back to Indy’s after a few years on thunders, they just feel like home to me. I’m craving a little more stability setting up for tricks after being used to thunders, but overall super hyped to be back on Indy’s. I pop my tricks higher, turn better, grind father. Only things I prefer about thunders is the crisp pop feel and the stability while still having a decent turn (definitely don’t turn as nice as Indy’s though).
Just a heads up im 6 ft 175lbs and I just tried the 92a blue barrel indy bushings today and it was wheelbite city. I cranked them down to the point my kingpin nut was showing 2 threads and I still got wheelbite. Will try the black 94a next.
Good to know! I just ordered a set, we’ll see how I do on them. I’m 5’9” and down to 140lbs after a recent surfing trip (was eating pretty healthy, but not a lot, and surfing burns mad calories)
How do that black ones break in? They feel stable yet turn (when I lean with all my weight) but low key scared that they’ll stiffen up. I’m about same weight as you and normally like to ride mid average tightness
A generalisation, if I may...
The stock bushings are very squishy and then firm up some as they break in.
The aftermarket bushings in the softer duros feel like they start off a bit stiff for a second, then soften right up a lot more as they age. Then the aftermarket bushings in the harder duros sometimes feel like they are way too stiff right from go, or then flex out at the sides a whole lot if they are pushed too much before breaking in, but as they break in and soften up but also firm up, it is not so much that they get a lot harder, but more so they get more consistent in the feel of them, or even once really well worn in they are actually not that hard at all, but they have a little bit more stiffness when pushed down hard on either side, if that makes sense?
I have some black and even yellow bushings that have been very well used and those things feel so good with the nut flush on standard trucks with 56mm wheels, being able to turn and still get a little wheelbite, but hold up a lot better than the softer / stock bushings do, by comparison.
Not everyone feels that way though, as some people I know have bought them, said they could not turn at all on either black 94 or yellow 96 duro bushings and pretty much discarded them, or swapped them with me for some blue 92 or even the red 88 (which were way stiffer before). The aftermarket orange at 90 duro are very soft feeling and don't even ask about the white 78s if you want any kind of stiffness or stability - those things are for people with feather weight bodies or ankles of steel (and who can control a board that feels like it has almost no bushings at all) but we are not talking about those ones, so back to the black ones.
The conical shape give a bit more than the cylinder as well, so if you want a little more turn / less stiffness, try those ones if available. They usually come in both, but the cylinder seem to be way more common in some areas.
Hopefully that helps, but with any bushings, please allow a few sessions to break in and become "normal" and even doing some side to side movements just standing on the board in front of tv or standing on carpet or where ever can help to go from new weird feeling bushings to a bit more comfortable normal feeling bushings.
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Went skating today… the bushings got torn up, and I know why: when the truck turns all the way, the hanger is pinching the top bushing up against the top washer and cutting the top bushing.
Never knew that’s why they got “blown out”.
Learned something new, and now I need to put new bushing in.
I feel like any bushings might have a greater chance of blowing out if they are not broken in nicely.
More so if you put new trucks or new bushings on, then just go skate as usual, there is a good chance they will blow out way faster, than if you took it very easy for the first few sessions, or just did things that didn't involve tightening them down much, heavy leans to either side and just had more of a cruiser type roll around, if that makes sense?
My first session or two on new bushings is usually on a very gentle mini ramp or carpark roll around, just getting them more worn in and not doing anything much that would put a lot of pressure on either side to cut or compress them too much.
Stock bushings are very soft and take a bit to firm up, especially the new Indy bushings, more so than the older ones, so often people will tighten them down some to start with, which then makes them cut into the top sides way more quickly.
Funny thing is I have kept a set of very chopped bushings from someone else, put them on a cruiser board and they still work perfectly well, although they are very loose with minimal sides on them.
Depending on what you prefer, maybe go for the harder blue 92 duro bushings, or mix and match a bit, just to try to work out what feels best.
Probably too much info, so sorry, maybe overstepping there, but I do see it a lot with people when they set up new boards, trucks or even just new bushings at the shop / park I am at.
Nah, all good :) we have no where else to share our thoughts.
They were old bushings from some indy trucks 3-4 years ago, and just sitting around inside. They weren't used much, but maybe they're just old and fragile?
I tightened them only till the nut was just at the first ring of the kingpin, so they looked like stock tightness.... and I think I could definitely tighten them more with my weight at 212. I should try the Hard ones like you mentioned.
Thanks!
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Went skating today… the bushings got torn up, and I know why: when the truck turns all the way, the hanger is pinching the top bushing up against the top washer and cutting the top bushing.
Never knew that’s why they got “blown out”.
Learned something new, and now I need to put new bushing in.
If you have access to Ace bushings, replace the stock top washer with an Ace top washer. The profile is easier on the bushing. Also, the turn feels somehow smoother.
right on.... may consider, thanks
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I've got some stage 9 159's that have been on a cruiser, but I want to start actually skating and grinding on them, but the kingpin is ridiculously tall and I have no grind clearance. I was thinking of getting the inverted kingpin baseplates to use with them, but hesitant to spend money on these old trucks. Will they feel more like Stage 11's if I switch out the baseplate? I'm used to stage 11's and not sure what all has changed between the stages.
The Stage 9 hanger is lower in profile, only 53 or so mm tall, compared to the Stage 11 which is 55 mm tall. In saying that, the geometry of the older trucks is different to the newer ones, so they will never quite turn the same way as the current models.
You could do what I have done with some of my older trucks - run a cut down top bushing (optional depending on how you ride them) but definitely angle grind down the kingpin top once you have the bushings where you want them, which may or may not be possible with regular bushings.
The main thing is keeping the height of the bottom bushing and just cutting a mm from the lower part of the top bushing, or trying something like the Venture low / loose kit, which also worked really well.
The IKP baseplates will work with those hangers, as I had tried that too with some old Stage 9 trucks that the baseplates had broken and they do fit well enough together.
Do you have any other trucks to compare them with, swap hangers on current Indy trucks or anything?
Good call on using some older trucks, I've got some other, newer trucks that I could swap out baseplate instead of ordering new ones. I'm worried about the turning as I like the turn of the new stages, and have really enjoyed the Stage 4's as of late. I was going to change out that stage 4s with these older stage 9s to see how the difference in wheelbase feels but I have a feelling if they turn like shit I'm going to hate it instantly.
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I've said this before, and I'll say it again: the Indy blue 92 medium hard cylinders are great bushings if one feels that the stock oranges feel too squirrely.
That said, one cannot emphasize the importance of a proper break-in period with basically any Indy bushing. Even the 92s feel super loose and soft at first, but you just gotta resist the urge to crank them down instantly. Give the bushings, stock or aftermarket, enough time and tighten them little by little. Usually 1, max. 2 sessions for breaking in is enough.
I mean, effin' Chris Russell rides stock oranges. He goes f*cking hard and is not the lightest dude. The stocks are amazing once broken in properly.
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going to buy some indys for a couple reasons, but its been like 6 years since riding them and I can barely remember what its like. I skate an 8.5 with Thunder Hollows right now. Part of me is nervous about going straight from the lightest baby trucks to standard indys, so I should get Indy Hollow Standards. The other part of me says to stop being a baby and just get the Standards. It's like a 5 dollar difference so it's not really about the cost for me.
Thoughts?
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Go for forged hollow indys if you are coming from thunders. If you got the funds, get the titanium, it'll be the same as a thunder in weight.
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i think some folks said the forged indy’s were closer to the cast thunders in wb, height.
weight loss trucks if your setups is too big, helps. indy are heavy for certain. feels great for some tricks. i miss 50/50s and switch and regular kickflips on regular 159s. nollie flips and i’d feel like just broke my ankle. mob problems.
i’m out of shape and shit, but heavy setups irritate my it bands. or thereabouts in the knees.
something about cast indy’s is really cool tho, just kinda feel tough. i just put on way smaller wheels for a good time.
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going to buy some indys for a couple reasons, but its been like 6 years since riding them and I can barely remember what its like. I skate an 8.5 with Thunder Hollows right now. Part of me is nervous about going straight from the lightest baby trucks to standard indys, so I should get Indy Hollow Standards. The other part of me says to stop being a baby and just get the Standards. It's like a 5 dollar difference so it's not really about the cost for me.
Thoughts?
I just switched from thunder hollow lights (?) the light blue bushing…
I went to a stock Indy cast baseplate, standard kingpin, and titanium truck hangar… so the only weight loss is the titanium axle, and I’m in freakin’ love. Nothing like Indy’s.
And, watch Degros if you want a longer explanation, but the fulcrum location and extra mm of height of the Indy helps lift up the nose when popping… and the bit of extra weight sucks the board up to your feet.
I’m not a tech skater though, and like nothing better than to get good grinds in, and pop high ollies.
The turning alone will make you wonder why the hell you ever skated Thunders. (Even though going from Indy to Thunder was not that bad: thunders still turn decently well)
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going to buy some indys for a couple reasons, but its been like 6 years since riding them and I can barely remember what its like. I skate an 8.5 with Thunder Hollows right now. Part of me is nervous about going straight from the lightest baby trucks to standard indys, so I should get Indy Hollow Standards. The other part of me says to stop being a baby and just get the Standards. It's like a 5 dollar difference so it's not really about the cost for me.
Thoughts?
I just switched from thunder hollow lights (?) the light blue bushing…
I went to a stock Indy cast baseplate, standard kingpin, and titanium truck hangar… so the only weight loss is the titanium axle, and I’m in freakin’ love. Nothing like Indy’s.
And, watch Degros if you want a longer explanation, but the fulcrum location and extra mm of height of the Indy helps lift up the nose when popping… and the bit of extra weight sucks the board up to your feet.
I’m not a tech skater though, and like nothing better than to get good grinds in, and pop high ollies.
The turning alone will make you wonder why the hell you ever skated Thunders. (Even though going from Indy to Thunder was not that bad: thunders still turn decently well)
This is some of the reasoning I wanted to switch over. That and I skate 56s so with no risers it was a bit of challenge not to wheelbite. Excited to do some turning, popping, and some grinds on Indys
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If anyone is interested to try and decipher this fun math exercise I just went though to figure out what each piece of Indy trucks weighs WITHOUT a scale. (I could not math it out hard enough to figure out what the delta is between hollow kingpin, and standard kingpin, because there is no fifth type like Thunders to determine the weight split in the 25 grams saved for the hollow axle/hollow kingpin)
149 Axle Size Indy's
Standard (standard base, standard axle/kingpin) - 394 grams
Hollow (Standard base, Hollow axle/hollow kingpin) - 369 grams
--difference--(Hollow Kingpin/hollow Axle reduce weight by: 25 grams) (6.3% Reduction between S. and H.)
Forged Hollow (forged base, hollow axle/hollow kingpin) - 358 grams
--difference--(Forged Baseplate reduces weight by another: 11 grams) (3% reduction between H. and F.H.)
Titanium (forged base, Ti Axle/hollow kingpin) - 340 grams
--difference--(Titanium axle reduces weight by another: 18 grams) (5% Reduction between F.H. and T.)
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I've said this before, and I'll say it again: the Indy blue 92 medium hard cylinders are great bushings if one feels that the stock oranges feel too squirrely.
That said, one cannot emphasize the importance of a proper break-in period with basically any Indy bushing. Even the 92s feel super loose and soft at first, but you just gotta resist the urge to crank them down instantly. Give the bushings, stock or aftermarket, enough time and tighten them little by little. Usually 1, max. 2 sessions for breaking in is enough.
I mean, effin' Chris Russell rides stock oranges. He goes f*cking hard and is not the lightest dude. The stocks are amazing once broken in properly.
local shop only had orange and black.... am giving the blacks a go right now. I weight 210, so turning when I want to isn't a problem.... but damn if I have to get used to the moment just before the pop where everything is going to be set and you don't get ANY last minute adjustment.
skating the blacks made it clear how much last minute turn adjustments I'm doing before popping. And I definitely have to get used to it :/
other than that, skating on the blacks has the same familiar, sturdy Indy turning right out the box with the nut flush just like a new set of Indy's. And I don't think I'll get wheelbite falls as much anymore from landing not perfect.
The Blue ones sound REALLY tempting, and probably if I ever see in person I'll pick up and compare them.
thanks for the suggestion to try Blue!
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I've said this before, and I'll say it again: the Indy blue 92 medium hard cylinders are great bushings if one feels that the stock oranges feel too squirrely.
That said, one cannot emphasize the importance of a proper break-in period with basically any Indy bushing. Even the 92s feel super loose and soft at first, but you just gotta resist the urge to crank them down instantly. Give the bushings, stock or aftermarket, enough time and tighten them little by little. Usually 1, max. 2 sessions for breaking in is enough.
I mean, effin' Chris Russell rides stock oranges. He goes f*cking hard and is not the lightest dude. The stocks are amazing once broken in properly.
skating the blacks made it clear how much last minute turn adjustments I'm doing before popping. And I definitely have to get used to it :/
other than that, skating on the blacks has the same familiar, sturdy Indy turning right out the box with the nut flush just like a new set of Indy's. And I don't think I'll get wheelbite falls as much anymore from landing not perfect.
The Blue ones sound REALLY tempting, and probably if I ever see in person I'll pick up and compare them.
thanks for the suggestion to try Blue!
I'm at 196 (lean, no fat) and the black 94s will be forever 92 once you break them in. I'm back on the 92s but might have to bump to black, I hate threads showing and I don't crank down the KP nut, that's what harder bushings are for. I did try 92 bottom 96 top and that was fine as well, just a bit stiffer (but snappier)
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I've said this before, and I'll say it again: the Indy blue 92 medium hard cylinders are great bushings if one feels that the stock oranges feel too squirrely.
That said, one cannot emphasize the importance of a proper break-in period with basically any Indy bushing. Even the 92s feel super loose and soft at first, but you just gotta resist the urge to crank them down instantly. Give the bushings, stock or aftermarket, enough time and tighten them little by little. Usually 1, max. 2 sessions for breaking in is enough.
I mean, effin' Chris Russell rides stock oranges. He goes f*cking hard and is not the lightest dude. The stocks are amazing once broken in properly.
skating the blacks made it clear how much last minute turn adjustments I'm doing before popping. And I definitely have to get used to it :/
other than that, skating on the blacks has the same familiar, sturdy Indy turning right out the box with the nut flush just like a new set of Indy's. And I don't think I'll get wheelbite falls as much anymore from landing not perfect.
The Blue ones sound REALLY tempting, and probably if I ever see in person I'll pick up and compare them.
thanks for the suggestion to try Blue!
I'm at 196 (lean, no fat) and the black 94s will be forever 92 once you break them in. I'm back on the 92s but might have to bump to black, I hate threads showing and I don't crank down the KP nut, that's what harder bushings are for. I did try 92 bottom 96 top and that was fine as well, just a but stiffer (but snappier)
that's awesome to here... because the turn on standard yellow is sublime... but the heavy demands tighter trucks.
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For those who like big wheels but despise risers, what’s the biggest wheel size you’ll go on forged hollow 149 and standard 149?
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55mm on a standard 149mm. But don't be afraid of risers. Once you're used to the pop timing its not that big of a deal.
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For those who like big wheels but despise risers, what’s the biggest wheel size you’ll go on forged hollow 149 and standard 149?
No idea why, but I have always cap'd out wheel height to truck height or wheels 1mm smaller than truck height.
49/50max
52/51, 52max
Forged 53/54 (usually 53)
Cast 54/55 but have run up to 57 with no issues
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I like Thunders and find forged Ti Indys too light feeling. Its hard to explain, but in Indy I prefer cast hollows and if I went forged I'd use the normal hollow axles. The way my brain perceives it is when a trick sucks up to my feet with cast Indy/Thunder/Venture I can feel and hear the board hit my feet. Forged Ti Indys and Thunders just sorta feel floaty like my board is there but the feedback isn't positive.
I use the blues and find that the aftermarket top washer is sharper and narrower. I always re-use the stock washer to avoid crunching the bushing. For me each step up in bushing duro means 1 less thread showing it might not work the same for you. The blues definitely firmed up for me the first day or so they felt similar to stock.
If I was going to use Ace bushings I would just buy AF1. I'm sure the bushings fit and work great, but I don't want to have to mix and match parts from other brands to get shit to work. Otherwise I would just ride some Royals with Ace bushings. I thought I was being a stringent weirdo (and I probably am) until I watched one of Ben D's videos and he echoed the sentiment.
Wheel size is 52/53 Spit Classic regardless. The boss sticks to 53 Classics on Standards. I don't skate bowls or crust, but I do see dudes skate 58 Conicals on Ventures without risers, which are lower (and bite less). I know this is paranoid sounding just like not liking Forged Ti, but I felt that using Conical Fulls on Indy Standards was the worst pinch I've had on a truck.
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Has anyone tried and stuck with Stage IV hangers on Forged plates? Its some ultimate madness, but I noticed Reynolds was on that combo when I had IG, I've seen a local and a friend do it, and Maurio McCoy is also on it.
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As per wheel size, I run 55mm wheels on 144 Forged Titaniums and Forged Hollows no problem.
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Has anyone tried and stuck with Stage IV hangers on Forged plates? Its some ultimate madness, but I noticed Reynolds was on that combo when I had IG, I've seen a local and a friend do it, and Maurio McCoy is also on it.
it looks sick.
not sure if reynolds is still about it
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For those who like big wheels but despise risers, what’s the biggest wheel size you’ll go on forged hollow 149 and standard 149?
I would usually put 56mm wheels (Classic Full mostly) on standard 149s and not have any issues with I guess what could be called medium trucks / stock bushings or adjusted bushings that end up about stock tightness.
One guy I skate with has 60mm Classics on standard 149s with the Indy 96 duro yellow bushings and skates fine, so having tigher trucks with bigger wheels works too, no risers needed.
The main thing is how much you lean side to side / not too much to wheelbite or even just turn which then affects performance with bigger wheels, so some people could get away with a much larger wheel on the same truck than others, due to body weight, bushing hardness but also it very much comes down to ankle strength as well.
Some of the other crazy dudes with 60mm wheels on "no washer" bushing setups have trucks that flip flop side to side, but they don't seem to have any issues with wheelbite as they get more used to the board like that. Definitely the exception, and I would not want to end up catching at full speed on that sort of setup, but to use that as an extreme example, you can adjust to a board with stock / looser trucks and then go up in wheel size accordingly as well.
More normal preferences would indicate 55 to 56mm on standard plates the most common max with stock bushings for regular skaters, but I think 54mm on forged plates is also a really common setup that others I know have.
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Wow thanks for the in depth answers on wheel size. You all probably saved me a slam.
I might start making wheel wells myself so I can have more variety in decks and bigger wheels
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I've said this before, and I'll say it again: the Indy blue 92 medium hard cylinders are great bushings if one feels that the stock oranges feel too squirrely.
That said, one cannot emphasize the importance of a proper break-in period with basically any Indy bushing. Even the 92s feel super loose and soft at first, but you just gotta resist the urge to crank them down instantly. Give the bushings, stock or aftermarket, enough time and tighten them little by little. Usually 1, max. 2 sessions for breaking in is enough.
I mean, effin' Chris Russell rides stock oranges. He goes f*cking hard and is not the lightest dude. The stocks are amazing once broken in properly.
I tried the Black, and then got Blue.
The Blues are exactly right. The black was just too tight.
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Just setup some 144 standards on an Xmas complete to step up my board size and had maybe my best session all year on brand new everything.
I’ve gone through a ton of truck madness this year (AF1 55, Royal, Thunder 147, venture 5.2 lo and hi) and for better or worse going back to Indy might be the only way for me. They’re the only trucks that after I break them in, I don’t have to think about. I find myself focusing more on skating than my skateboard which is ultimately the point I guess.
In the end I can look past their downsides easier than all other trucks. Maybe it’s horseshit and I’ll be off these in a week.
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Just setup some 144 standards on an Xmas complete to step up my board size and had maybe my best session all year on brand new everything.
I’ve gone through a ton of truck madness this year (AF1 55, Royal, Thunder 147, venture 5.2 lo and hi) and for better or worse going back to Indy might be the only way for me. They’re the only trucks that after I break them in, I don’t have to think about. I find myself focusing more on skating than my skateboard which is ultimately the point I guess.
In the end I can look past their downsides easier than all other trucks. Maybe it’s horseshit and I’ll be off these in a week.
Nope. Welcome home.
Indy’s just feel right.
Wonder if they’ll ever come out with stage 12…
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I'm back on forged hollows after being on ventures for a while. It really is like returning home. I had a theory that you can get most of the benefits of skating other trucks (stability, pop, pinch) by just skating tighter indy's. I'm a light dude (~145 lbs) so I went with one stock orange and one blue in each truck. I like my back truck a little tighter so I have blue bottom, orange top in my back truck and orange bottom, blue top in my front truck. Been skating like this for a few weeks now and it's feeling like my ideal set up. I think I'm going to get rid of my other trucks so I don't get tempted into switching anymore.
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Just setup some 144 standards on an Xmas complete to step up my board size and had maybe my best session all year on brand new everything.
I’ve gone through a ton of truck madness this year (AF1 55, Royal, Thunder 147, venture 5.2 lo and hi) and for better or worse going back to Indy might be the only way for me. They’re the only trucks that after I break them in, I don’t have to think about. I find myself focusing more on skating than my skateboard which is ultimately the point I guess.
In the end I can look past their downsides easier than all other trucks. Maybe it’s horseshit and I’ll be off these in a week.
Nope. Welcome home.
Indy’s just feel right.
Wonder if they’ll ever come out with stage 12…
It has been 11 years since Stage 11 came out.
Really I am sure someone somewhere is thinking about modifications and upgrades, but the Standard truck just works so well for me, I really don't need to change anything on them at all, everything working so much better than any older stage and I don't need to worry about running out of them any time soon, especially in 149s which I am currently on for most setups.
* Sure I angle grind down the kingpins to have a bit more clearance, but I would be doing that on any truck and I can and do skate a good number of boards without any modifications, current stock bushings, nothing changed, etc.
To be fair, I would never try to tell anyone else what to ride, because others skate different things in different ways, but I prefer a taller truck like the Standards, no hollow this or forged that (even though I do have all options as test / loan boards at the indoor park) and I don't need risers or anything else with these.
Sometimes I hear people whinge about the politics or history of truck brands, goodness knows there are dramas everywhere if you look hard enough, but all that aside, I just want a truck that is sturdy enough to hold up to what I am doing, can turn easily, doesn't hang up on the kingpin when I am too lazy with smith variations, or the main thing, that I can set and forget when it comes to the bushings, so they work just fine for everything, tick all my boxes, etc. People having a whinge are allowed, but I just blank face them until they are done and then move on to another topic, when I get those sort of people in the shop or at a skatepark, even just seeing a tiny fraction of comments on Instagram or similar things often make me shake my head, but then smile cause I don't care - I just want trucks that work for me.
So glad I have Indy Standards, along with Spitfire Formula Four wheels, Jessup grip on any and every board I ride, other things change but these things always stay the same for me. I could add BBS boards - usually DLX wood and Bones bearings, with Shortys bolts, but I don't want to get too picky.
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I'm back on forged hollows after being on ventures for a while. It really is like returning home. I had a theory that you can get most of the benefits of skating other trucks (stability, pop, pinch) by just skating tighter indy's. I'm a light dude (~145 lbs) so I went with one stock orange and one blue in each truck. I like my back truck a little tighter so I have blue bottom, orange top in my back truck and orange bottom, blue top in my front truck. Been skating like this for a few weeks now and it's feeling like my ideal set up. I think I'm going to get rid of my other trucks so I don't get tempted into switching anymore.
Yes, purge the inferior garbage from your life and be well.
I’m actually trying to figure out what to do with these hollow light 148 thunder trucks (light blue bushing) that have little wear.
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So glad I have Indy Standards, along with Spitfire Formula Four wheels, Jessup grip on any and every board I ride, other things change but these things always stay the same for me. I could add BBS boards - usually DLX wood and Bones bearings, with Shortys bolts, but I don't want to get too picky.
Pretty much same:
Indy Hollow (standard plate)
Bones bearings
1” Shortys allen (but couldn’t get them again at local so got 1” thunder Allen with green bolts: rad)
Jessup grip
DLX wood for life
But…… Bones X formula…. Though spitfire standard shape is mighty fine and looks just “right”
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Just setup some 144 standards on an Xmas complete to step up my board size and had maybe my best session all year on brand new everything.
I’ve gone through a ton of truck madness this year (AF1 55, Royal, Thunder 147, venture 5.2 lo and hi) and for better or worse going back to Indy might be the only way for me. They’re the only trucks that after I break them in, I don’t have to think about. I find myself focusing more on skating than my skateboard which is ultimately the point I guess.
In the end I can look past their downsides easier than all other trucks. Maybe it’s horseshit and I’ll be off these in a week.
Nope. Welcome home.
Indy’s just feel right.
Wonder if they’ll ever come out with stage 12…
I think the stage 11's are pretty much perfected. I do hope they remake the mids, though. I wish they actually made an indy designed for tech skating and not just a 52mm tall stage 11. Trying to maintain the exact geometry led them from one poor decision to another. No one expects a mid/low truck to turn exactly the same as its standard counterpart. I'd love to skate an indy mid without an inverted kingpin and chunky hangers.
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Just switched from venture to Indy. About two weeks in and the only complaint I have is loss of pop. I ride them both stock (no adjustments).
The Indy’s have a much better turn of course but I feel way less stable popping and don’t have the confidence getting up on higher ledges.
I don’t wanna have to tighten the stock bushings too much so I guess my question is would blue or black bushing help with stability without sacrificing too much turn if ran flush? I’m already getting a little madness (only switched cause I was hitting axel on ventures in about six months and wanted a more durable truck) but want to stick with Indy’s. They feel amazing riding around and on small stuff but the loss of confidence popping fast on flat gaps and getting up tall ledges is messing with me.
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Just switched from venture to Indy. About two weeks in and the only complaint I have is loss of pop. I ride them both stock (no adjustments).
The Indy’s have a much better turn of course but I feel way less stable popping and don’t have the confidence getting up on higher ledges.
I don’t wanna have to tighten the stock bushings too much so I guess my question is would blue or black bushing help with stability without sacrificing too much turn if ran flush? I’m already getting a little madness (only switched cause I was hitting axel on ventures in about six months and wanted a more durable truck) but want to stick with Indy’s. They feel amazing riding around and on small stuff but the loss of confidence popping fast on flat gaps and getting up tall ledges is messing with me.
If it helps: I weigh 210-215, and I can make the blacks turn without too much trouble, but they are super stable when setting up and I can’t make micro-adjustments when approaching a ledge/rail. The barrel bushing is rock solid on the black. I haven’t tried conical bushings since stage 7 or 8 when they were stock.
The blue is about a perfect “medium” tightness. They feel like the orange stock bushings with about a 3/4 turn of the axle nut, while the black feels like maybe twice that (1.5 turn).
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Just setup some 144 standards on an Xmas complete to step up my board size and had maybe my best session all year on brand new everything.
I’ve gone through a ton of truck madness this year (AF1 55, Royal, Thunder 147, venture 5.2 lo and hi) and for better or worse going back to Indy might be the only way for me. They’re the only trucks that after I break them in, I don’t have to think about. I find myself focusing more on skating than my skateboard which is ultimately the point I guess.
In the end I can look past their downsides easier than all other trucks. Maybe it’s horseshit and I’ll be off these in a week.
Nope. Welcome home.
Indy’s just feel right.
Wonder if they’ll ever come out with stage 12…
I agree. I want to like them but the chunky hanger and the weight kills it for me. It shouldn't matter that much but I would like to think less truck less weight.
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Just switched from venture to Indy. About two weeks in and the only complaint I have is loss of pop. I ride them both stock (no adjustments).
The Indy’s have a much better turn of course but I feel way less stable popping and don’t have the confidence getting up on higher ledges.
I don’t wanna have to tighten the stock bushings too much so I guess my question is would blue or black bushing help with stability without sacrificing too much turn if ran flush? I’m already getting a little madness (only switched cause I was hitting axel on ventures in about six months and wanted a more durable truck) but want to stick with Indy’s. They feel amazing riding around and on small stuff but the loss of confidence popping fast on flat gaps and getting up tall ledges is messing with me.
I did a history search before answering...
5’7”
145 lbs
Shoe size is 8
I skate an 8.5
5.8 ventures
56-58mm spits
Jessup grip only
Rest of the parts is whatever I can get on sale (including deck as long as it’s 14.25 or lower wb and bbs)
So being quite light you are going to most likely find that some bushings are just going to be too stiff or solid no matter how much they break in, so I would not go harder than the blue 92 in cylinder, or maybe at the most try the black 94 in conical, but I think the blue ones would be the best bet for bushing upgrades.
That is what I use for my setups, also 8.5 on 149s so the 92 duro bushings just give a little more stiffness and I can still turn easily when I want to. I am on the (low top) conical 92 duro bushings and I like a lot more turn than some others, so these give me a nice amount more than stock bushings, so the normal cylinder 92 duro bushings should be good for you in that regard.
Conical shaped bottom bushings will allow more turn than cylinder shaped bottom bushings, which will feel more firm and stable. The tops are all the same. Low tops are now out of stock, but I wouldn't recommend those unless you want to angle grind the kingpin down a few threads, or like riding loose with the nut flush.
Breaking them in is fairly easy, but take a session just to roll around on them first and get a good feel for them and they go a little mushy then firm up nicely within one or two sessions, from any new ones I have set up.
The black ones take a bit longer or don't really feel like they are going to break in at all unless you really put a lot of weight into side to side movement if you are so light, but once solidly broken in, they also skate well for stiffer turns on boards I have skated.
I am 180 lbs, 6 ft + for comparison.
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Just switched from venture to Indy. About two weeks in and the only complaint I have is loss of pop. I ride them both stock (no adjustments).
Its just the timing screwing with you. Look at Tiago... Also... If you put Indy's on a board thats been used with Thunder or Venture at first, it will just feel dead forever. Indy's seem to wear more surface area, which makes sense.
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Anybody tried putting Indy titanium hangers on the standard cast baseplates? I've skated both standards and forged titaniums and realize I like the weight of the forged titaniums, but the height and turn of the standards. And there's something about forged baseplates that just seem kind of toy like and brittle that I don't really like.
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Running the IKP cast plate with ti hangers currently, not sure if they’re lighter than standards given the added weight of the IKP parts.
Works great tho. Been riding more transition and bigger wheels so bumped up truck height; it didn't mess with me as much as I thought it would (weight either); gotta say the pop was much better than 52mm trucks and 51mm wheels!
Big Daddy Ben found his 'perfect indy' a forged plated, solid hanger.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPtbBHlA5-s&t=286s
Waiting on BF deals to snag some cast hollows.
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Anybody tried putting Indy titanium hangers on the standard cast baseplates? I've skated both standards and forged titaniums and realize I like the weight of the forged titaniums, but the height and turn of the standards. And there's something about forged baseplates that just seem kind of toy like and brittle that I don't really like.
Why yes. Yes I have.
Pics in setup thread, but they pop and grind as they should. Proper like ;D
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Did about a 40% turn to the right and they feel much better. Extra stability setting up and the kingpin is barely poking out. I appreciate the responses and I think if I switch bushings I’ll go with the blue barrel shape.
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Running the IKP cast plate with ti hangers currently, not sure if they’re lighter than standards given the added weight of the IKP parts.
Works great tho. Been riding more transition and bigger wheels so bumped up truck height; it didn't mess with me as much as I thought it would (weight either); gotta say the pop was much better than 52mm trucks and 51mm wheels!
Big Daddy Ben found his 'perfect indy' a forged plated, solid hanger.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPtbBHlA5-s&t=286s
Waiting on BF deals to snag some cast hollows.
Yeah but at the end he said he didn’t really notice a difference as much as he thought he would.
I still am blown away by how much fun cast baseplate with titanium hangar is. Everything just feels more solid with them vs. the forged baseplate.
Just bought some cast hollows as well! so it’ll be interesting to see what the hollow kingpin and hollow axle is like, comparatively.
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I ran Ti hangers for a long time on cast hollow and even the IKP plates. IIRC the Ti axle got the heavier IKP plates just south of regular territory, but they were heavier than cast hollows (hollow KP and axle). Hollow pin and Ti axle was nice since you don't get the weird sound from the hollow axle that some don't like and it is lighter. It feels sorta similar to how the Venture V-Cast are- hefty pop but light when its in the air albeit the Indys end up being noticeably taller.
I do notice that Ti axle ends seem to wear down much faster. I only ran 1 washer inside and outside and after 6-7mo the ends got so worn the axle nuts barely stayed on so I gave em away. Led me to now run 2 washers on the outside at a minimum so the nuts and ends are flush from the get go.
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I ran Ti hangers for a long time on cast hollow and even the IKP plates. IIRC the Ti axle got the heavier IKP plates just south of regular territory, but they were heavier than cast hollows (hollow KP and axle). Hollow pin and Ti axle was nice since you don't get the weird sound from the hollow axle that some don't like and it is lighter. It feels sorta similar to how the Venture V-Cast are- hefty pop but light when its in the air albeit the Indys end up being noticeably taller.
I do notice that Ti axle ends seem to wear down much faster. I only ran 1 washer inside and outside and after 6-7mo the ends got so worn the axle nuts barely stayed on so I gave em away. Led me to now run 2 washers on the outside at a minimum so the nuts and ends are flush from the get go.
Have you found the IKP plates to be better than regular cast plates? I've considered trying them, but had some concern about them loosening up on their own. Also, is the kingpin clearance significantly better on smiths, feebles, etc?
I typically use the 3 washer method on all my trucks which usually makes the nut flush with the end of the axle. I like pushing out the wheels as much as possible for extra grinding surface and I'm pretty OCD about my axles poking out too much lol
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Running the IKP cast plate with ti hangers currently, not sure if they’re lighter than standards given the added weight of the IKP parts.
Works great tho. Been riding more transition and bigger wheels so bumped up truck height; it didn't mess with me as much as I thought it would (weight either); gotta say the pop was much better than 52mm trucks and 51mm wheels!
Big Daddy Ben found his 'perfect indy' a forged plated, solid hanger.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPtbBHlA5-s&t=286s
Waiting on BF deals to snag some cast hollows.
Yeah but at the end he said he didn’t really notice a difference as much as he thought he would.
I still am blown away by how much fun cast baseplate with titanium hangar is. Everything just feels more solid with them vs. the forged baseplate.
Just bought some cast hollows as well! so it’ll be interesting to see what the hollow kingpin and hollow axle is like, comparatively.
I almost feel like a cast hollow plate with a Ti hanger would be the ultimate Indy for me in regard to height and weight. Is it true that hollow kingpings are actually stronger than solid? Seems like I remember reading that somewhere before.
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No the IKP sucks and hasn't been addressed and normal Indy plates have good clearance and are lighter.
I don't think the ti axle makes some magical Indy. The normal hollows are fine. I think Ventures have a heavier pop feel to start with so lightening them makes sense and Ben is thinking "wow I liked these forged plate standard axle versions of these 2 trucks maybe correlation is causation" and it wasn't. Even the V Cast don't feel insanely different than standard it's like some icing on the cake for me. I rode the ti hanger and hollow hanger and other than sound when rolling there is zero noticeable difference it's like the amount of grams in 2 quarters.
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Thanks that's good to know. I actually already have a couple of sets of forged titaniums and standards which is the only reason I'm even thinking about this right now. Being older now and skating bigger boards, weight has become more important than it used to be.
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What’s a good Indy set up? Like board brands with the specs mellow kicks or whatever? Just curious
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What’s a good Indy set up? Like board brands with the specs mellow kicks or whatever? Just curious
I guess a lot of people could all give different answers here, but I find the standard Indy truck works really well on DLX 8.38 boards, more often than not trying to get the more mellow ones - stamp on top between front bolts, I being steepest, IV being more mellow, so I look for the III or IV.
More info on that in the DLX Shapes thread:
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=85076.0
They are BBS boards, so in general I find they can be here or there with finding the right ones, but I like to stand on them before buying or setting up, so I know if they are going to work for me.
Others who get some of the more mellow PS Stix boards also find they work really well, but again, some PS Stix boards can be on the steeper side too, so you have to check and see before buying.
The Woodshop thread has maybe too much info, but at least to check there for boards from different brands but the same woodshop, if that is what you like, or more so just going into a shop and standing on as many boards as you can. The only other thing to note is the length of middle flat, where the bolt holes are drilled and how much flat there is before the kicks, as more flat will make a board easier to pop, along with less angle on the kicks.
Woodshop thread here:
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=120409.0
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What’s a good Indy set up? Like board brands with the specs mellow kicks or whatever? Just curious
I only skate Indy (standard/hollow/forged back and forth) and enjoy something slightly steeper than mellow but not FA or Dwindle steep for the kicks
I find these boards to be the most compatible from my personal experience:
Black Label
Polar (better on forged hollow/forged standard if the tail happens to be on the steeper side)
DLX: Anti Hero/Krooked (Real I loved a lot earlier on but nowadays I haven't found as much success - May be one-offs on what I happened to try) always stamped III or IV but I'll make I and II work
The Killing Floor
Primitive
Isle Skateboards
Baker/Deathwish
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Put my Indy 144 cast/team hollows on after being on a big Thunder 148 cast/team hollows kick. Being on Indy’s just feels right, like its a hard reset lol.
Considering my first ever trucks were 139 standards, I really got used to Indy’s. They just feel exactly how everything should feel. From the grind, turn, and especially to even how they react when landing tricks. It just works how I’ve always been used to how a truck should feel.
I’ll have my phases of trying out different trucks and geometries like with Thunder and Ace, but going back to Indy always feels like home.
One of my favorite things about Indy’s are how they redistribute weight upon landing.
Anyone else ever notice in footage that when someone has on Ventures and they land a trick, it looks as if the truck doesn’t articulate at all very much upon impact? Makes for very clean footage, albeit to the point where it looks kind of boring. Like they lack character. The board stays on the same plane, theres no bend, theres no visible articulation.
Watching Thunder footage, the lands look pretty similar to Ventures, but less robotic type landings, but still within that same realm.
Say, with Ace footage, the lands almost always look like they’re turning as soon as they land.
But with Indy’s, it just looks like how I think they’re supposed to. Depending on how tight the trucks are, they can have that wiggly land like say an Ace would (but more controlled), or have the Venture/Thunder type of land where its planted and the truck and board doesn’t articulate.
Idk where i’m going with this lol. Just some things I’ve noticed from trying out different truck brands and watching footage of people that skate truck brands I’m curious about.
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So I set up my dlx 8.5 with my 149 forged hollows after being on an 8.125 with venture lights and I am done with the madness of swapping back and forth. I learned how to do regular crooked grinds last year on my 149s and lost them when I went back to venture. I could only do them to fake. About 15 minutes ago I was at the park and I did some without even really trying. Took me 3 tries. I am so happy.
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That's surprising since the Venture pinch makes it almost impossible to slip into a noseslide unlike Indy Standard or Ace.
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That's surprising since the Venture pinch makes it almost impossible to slip into a noseslide unlike Indy Standard or Ace.
Yeah the venture pinch is amazing and I had no problem getting in or holding krooks I just couldn't pop out regular. I would always land primo. Idk what the deal is. I'm pumped tho lol.
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So I set up my dlx 8.5 with my 149 forged hollows after being on an 8.125 with venture lights and I am done with the madness of swapping back and forth. I learned how to do regular crooked grinds last year on my 149s and lost them when I went back to venture. I could only do them to fake. About 15 minutes ago I was at the park and I did some without even really trying. Took me 3 tries. I am so happy.
Muscle memory is a crazy thing.
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That's surprising since the Venture pinch makes it almost impossible to slip into a noseslide unlike Indy Standard or Ace.
I can't pop out forwards from a crooked grind regardless of what truck I'm using lol it always heelflips
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That's surprising since the Venture pinch makes it almost impossible to slip into a noseslide unlike Indy Standard or Ace.
I can't pop out forwards from a crooked grind regardless of what truck I'm using lol it always heelflips
I used to be terrible at popping out forward on crooks and always wanted to go to fakie because it was easier.
Lately, I've been locking in like I'm gonna go to fakie (easier to land and hold grind for me) but then stay like I'm going to pop out regular. I use that torsional energy I tricked my mind to save for going to fakie to somehow allow me to pop out to regular. When I do this, I usually try to keep my torso leaning back and more pressure on my heel to leverage the pop from the pinch
I'm on indys btw
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So I set up my dlx 8.5 with my 149 forged hollows after being on an 8.125 with venture lights and I am done with the madness of swapping back and forth. I learned how to do regular crooked grinds last year on my 149s and lost them when I went back to venture. I could only do them to fake. About 15 minutes ago I was at the park and I did some without even really trying. Took me 3 tries. I am so happy.
Muscle memory is a crazy thing.
It really is lol.
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That's surprising since the Venture pinch makes it almost impossible to slip into a noseslide unlike Indy Standard or Ace.
I can't pop out forwards from a crooked grind regardless of what truck I'm using lol it always heelflips
I used to be terrible at popping out forward on crooks and always wanted to go to fakie because it was easier.
Lately, I've been locking in like I'm gonna go to fakie (easier to land and hold grind for me) but then stay like I'm going to pop out regular. I use that torsional energy I tricked my mind to save for going to fakie to somehow allow me to pop out to regular. When I do this, I usually try to keep my torso leaning back and more pressure on my heel to leverage the pop from the pinch
I'm on indys btw
That's exactly how I was before today. I started standing more on top of the ledge while grinding and it helped me hold them longer and I was able to get the momentum to pop out forward. It was like a lightbulb just clicked on and everything made sense.
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Slapped in some fresh indy blk 94a bushings into some fresh GT Cast Hollows, nut flush...first session, by about hour two, they started to give (pivots started squeaking too); coming off 92 blues, I think the 94 hards will be what I'm looking for once broken in).
Digging the added pop from standard height (52mm wheels for now).
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Slapped in some fresh indy blk 94a bushings into some fresh GT Cast Hollows, nut flush...first session, by about hour two, they started to give (pivots started squeaking too); coming off 92 blues, I think the 94 hards will be what I'm looking for once broken in).
Digging the added pop from standard height (52mm wheels for now).
Hell yeah, That’s the way to do it, son. 52mm and cast baseplate. I got my 144 cast hollows sitting in the local shop right now already paid for: gonna pick up tomorrow.
I got the blacks, too tight for me, and am on blues now (flush) and they feel great… I do really miss the loose feel of the standard orange, so maaaaaaaaaaaay go back, but will have to see how the 144’s turn vs the 149 I got now.
I hope the blacks treat you well. They certainly are more helpful for flip tricks staying solid, and for landing not getting wheelbite.
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Slapped in some fresh indy blk 94a bushings into some fresh GT Cast Hollows, nut flush...first session, by about hour two, they started to give (pivots started squeaking too); coming off 92 blues, I think the 94 hards will be what I'm looking for once broken in).
Digging the added pop from standard height (52mm wheels for now).
I got the blacks, too tight for me, and am on blues now (flush) and they feel great… I do really miss the loose feel of the standard orange, so maaaaaaaaaaaay go back, but will have to see how the 144’s turn vs the 149 I got now.
I hope the blacks treat you well. They certainly are more helpful for flip tricks staying solid, and for landing not getting wheelbite.
Wheelbite is exactly what I’m trying to cure….they’re gonna break into fresh blues, just like blues break into fresh stocks, give or take a duro.
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That's surprising since the Venture pinch makes it almost impossible to slip into a noseslide unlike Indy Standard or Ace.
I can't pop out forwards from a crooked grind regardless of what truck I'm using lol it always heelflips
I used to be terrible at popping out forward on crooks and always wanted to go to fakie because it was easier.
Lately, I've been locking in like I'm gonna go to fakie (easier to land and hold grind for me) but then stay like I'm going to pop out regular. I use that torsional energy I tricked my mind to save for going to fakie to somehow allow me to pop out to regular. When I do this, I usually try to keep my torso leaning back and more pressure on my heel to leverage the pop from the pinch
I'm on indys btw
I've always been the opposite- popping to fakie feels more unnatural, but I also pop out (not drop out) of my crooks. I guess when I learned them an older dude told me to unweight my front foot and lift up slightly, but that the pop was always making sure the rear foot could quickly hit the tail. I then always focused on having my rear foot over the bolts so it could hit the tail faster on the way out.
I will say that the longer/more mellow the board the easier they are.
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I have two pairs of Indy, and apparently only one set of good bushings. Both sets are orange, not sure if the other is aftermarket or stock. They just won't break in. Feels numb and gets stuck on the sides, no matter how many sessions in. Tried white aftermarkets but they felt even worse (I'm heavy old dude). Now, should I try to cook them in water? Can't make them worse, right? I'd rather not swap bushings every time I skate different width trucks...
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I have two pairs of Indy, and apparently only one set of good bushings. Both sets are orange, not sure if the other is aftermarket or stock. They just won't break in. Feels numb and gets stuck on the sides, no matter how many sessions in. Tried white aftermarkets but they felt even worse (I'm heavy old dude). Now, should I try to cook them in water? Can't make them worse, right? I'd rather not swap bushings every time I skate different width trucks...
The orange stock bushings are a translucent mid orange colour, newer ones having the circles / rings on one side of each bushing, older ones just having a flat unfinished look on the one side of them. If they were special editions with other colour bushings - white, red, black, blue, green or something else, they would still look the same, newer ones with a finished look with rings on one side, older ones with an unfinished look on one side. They will all be cylinder since Stage 10 (single cross on baseplate) and now Stage 11 trucks (double lined cross on baseplate / cross in circle since 2012), assuming you don't have anything that is more than ten or more years old, no cross on the baseplate since mid to late 2020 as well, more just for age reference of the trucks. All stock bushings, no matter what colour are 90 duro as well, which is the medium of the bushing line.
The aftermarket bushings in any variety are a way more bright single colour right through, so a solid bright orange in the 90 (medium), or red 88 (soft), blue 92 (medium hard), black 94 (hard), yellow 96 (super hard) or even white 78 (super soft) duro options. They all come in cylinder shaped bottom bushings as well as conical shaped bottom bushings in red 88, orange 90, blue 92 and black 94 options. The cylinder shape will hold up a bit better for weight and not mush out as much too.
As to what is going on with your own trucks, if the bushings were worn in nicely then they would hold up and work fine, but if they were never worn in and just cranked down a lot, then they are more likely to lose rebound and not hold up as well, or have other issues. Even some older bushings just don't perform as well as newer ones, so depending on how old, or other things, you might find that two sets that might look the same will just not work the same if they have had different uses / periods of wear.
I would definitely not be trying the white super soft in anything but a super loose setup, or a kids board, but something like the blue 92 or even black 94 duro bushings are going to work better if you want a bit more stable setup that will still turn with some weight.
Also the washers that come with the aftermarket bushings are often smaller, so sometimes the bottom bushing is going to pop out over it, which will leave the truck sitting on an angle, so check that and see if that is happening to any of the bushings on your boards. I would always put the side with rings to the hangers, the smooth sides to the washers.
I think the only other thing is more info / details with pics or anything else re your trucks, eg both standards or other? Not that it would really matter, apart from the old low trucks, which have different bushings, but the mids, standards, forged / hollow options should all be the same in terms of bushings and what works in all of them in the same way, even though some trucks might feel different with the same bushings.
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The orange stock bushings are a translucent mid orange colour, newer ones having the circles / rings on one side of each bushing, older ones just having a flat unfinished look on the one side of them. If they were special editions with other colour bushings - white, red, black, blue, green or something else, they would still look the same, newer ones with a finished look with rings on one side, older ones with an unfinished look on one side. They will all be cylinder since Stage 10 (single cross on baseplate) and now Stage 11 trucks (double lined cross on baseplate / cross in circle since 2012), assuming you don't have anything that is more than ten or more years old, no cross on the baseplate since mid to late 2020 as well, more just for age reference of the trucks. All stock bushings, no matter what colour are 90 duro as well, which is the medium of the bushing line.
The aftermarket bushings in any variety are a way more bright single colour right through, so a solid bright orange in the 90 (medium), or red 88 (soft), blue 92 (medium hard), black 94 (hard), yellow 96 (super hard) or even white 78 (super soft) duro options. They all come in cylinder shaped bottom bushings as well as conical shaped bottom bushings in red 88, orange 90, blue 92 and black 94 options. The cylinder shape will hold up a bit better for weight and not mush out as much too.
As to what is going on with your own trucks, if the bushings were worn in nicely then they would hold up and work fine, but if they were never worn in and just cranked down a lot, then they are more likely to lose rebound and not hold up as well, or have other issues. Even some older bushings just don't perform as well as newer ones, so depending on how old, or other things, you might find that two sets that might look the same will just not work the same if they have had different uses / periods of wear.
I would definitely not be trying the white super soft in anything but a super loose setup, or a kids board, but something like the blue 92 or even black 94 duro bushings are going to work better if you want a bit more stable setup that will still turn with some weight.
Also the washers that come with the aftermarket bushings are often smaller, so sometimes the bottom bushing is going to pop out over it, which will leave the truck sitting on an angle, so check that and see if that is happening to any of the bushings on your boards. I would always put the side with rings to the hangers, the smooth sides to the washers.
I think the only other thing is more info / details with pics or anything else re your trucks, eg both standards or other? Not that it would really matter, apart from the old low trucks, which have different bushings, but the mids, standards, forged / hollow options should all be the same in terms of bushings and what works in all of them in the same way, even though some trucks might feel different with the same bushings.
Excellent answer, although partially known for me. Thanks Mbrimson88!
Both bushing sets should be Stage 11 stock, both have the rings in other end. I used to have them mixed in a box, as I was having some gear madness and fell victim for example to notorious aftermarket reds. Washers should be stock, I'm careful with that. In any case I boiled the other set for bit under 2 minutes, let's see what that does. I usually wear in my trucks kingpin nut flush, takes max two sessions. I don't know what was the issue with other bushing set, but it's not end of the world.
During my gear madness I also tried conical orange aftermarkets but they're truly too high for Stage 11.
I'll survive this!
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Excellent answer, although partially known for me. Thanks Mbrimson88!
Both bushing sets should be Stage 11 stock, both have the rings in other end. I used to have them mixed in a box, as I was having some gear madness and fell victim for example to notorious aftermarket reds. Washers should be stock, I'm careful with that. In any case I boiled the other set for bit under 2 minutes, let's see what that does. I usually wear in my trucks kingpin nut flush, takes max two sessions. I don't know what was the issue with other bushing set, but it's not end of the world.
During my gear madness I also tried conical orange aftermarkets but they're truly too high for Stage 11.
I'll survive this!
Sometimes I go for the "too much information" approach, so at least that covered pretty much everything without having to ask too many more questions.
I have definitely noticed that some stock bushings feel better than others, maybe from how they were first used, but a lot of the stuff I get is used / swapped in from others, which I test before recycling it back to people who need it.
Never boiled bushings, but I have heard of others doing it from time to time, so I am curious how they come out.
Did I also see you use silicon grease or something on bushings or other parts from a previous post? Some of that stuff will make everything silent but can be deadly, making bushings really feel like they are Daewon loose (no bushing feeling) but the smallest amount is often good for stopping squeaks and freeing up things that might grip or click too.
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Did I also see you use silicon grease or something on bushings or other parts from a previous post? Some of that stuff will make everything silent but can be deadly, making bushings really feel like they are Daewon loose (no bushing feeling) but the smallest amount is often good for stopping squeaks and freeing up things that might grip or click too.
Yes, I have used silicone grease for pivot squeaks. Tried it long time ago on bushings too and it's no good, unless really microdosed. Theoretically there could have been some of that stuff on the other bushing set. The good news is boiling did help, at least so it felt initially. No idea what happens there, maybe 100C temperature makes urethane reform somehow. Or then the last bits of silicone grease disintegrated.
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I've been riding 144s on my 8.25 decks for some time. Been thinking about giving 149s a shot, though. No particular reason, just curious. Maybe the tiny bit of magic carpet (especially with DLX 8.25s which are often a bit wider in reality) slightly tickles my OCD, if something.
Any experiences on switching from 144s to 149s on a 8.25? Notable differences in feel/performance?
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149 is the best - I really think they're noticeably better feeling riding/grinding/whatever. It feels like Indy is designed to be at that size and the other ones feel like weird modifications of that model.
I ditched 139 and started skating 149 in 2012, with DLX 8.25s. At the time I remember there being two camps: 1) those who made the switch too. 2) Those who said I'd never be able to flip my board again.
Day one I had no issues with flip tricks and never looked back haha. Other than brief attempts at other truck brands I've pretty faithfully stuck to them, mostly on FA 8.38 (now shape2) or 8.5. IMO it works perfect 8.25-8.5.
Admittedly I've only ever had two sets of 144's - once when they first came out, and once recently when the shop didn't have any 149 and I thought I'd just be Mr. Chill-don't care guy. Both times I kinda didn't like them. Stuck with them for a bit the first time but this recent time I gave up after a month and ponied up for the 149s.
I half write this off as me being a psycho, but I will say - if you're a crooked grinder you won't know how you dealt with anything other than the 149's width.
I've currently got an amazing set going minus the squeakiest pivot cup on planet earth on the front truck.. I want to tinker and fix it but history tells me this will send me back to truck purgatory so I will chill >:(
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I've been riding 144s on my 8.25 decks for some time. Been thinking about giving 149s a shot, though. No particular reason, just curious. Maybe the tiny bit of magic carpet (especially with DLX 8.25s which are often a bit wider in reality) slightly tickles my OCD, if something.
Any experiences on switching from 144s to 149s on a 8.25? Notable differences in feel/performance?
No experience on that exact combination, but as I wrote in gear madness thread, I personally enjoy the slightly wider than board trucks. More truck to grind, more stability. Might not work for everyone, though.
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I've been riding 144s on my 8.25 decks for some time. Been thinking about giving 149s a shot, though. No particular reason, just curious. Maybe the tiny bit of magic carpet (especially with DLX 8.25s which are often a bit wider in reality) slightly tickles my OCD, if something.
Any experiences on switching from 144s to 149s on a 8.25? Notable differences in feel/performance?
Not worth the switch, in my experience. The tiniest bit of magic carpet makes for better leverage in terms of commanding your board. The increased surface area for grinds is negligible. The added heft just isn’t worth the trade off. For pinchy tricks, I actually like when my trucks are just ever so slightly narrower than the width of the board because when I lock in on grinds, my weight is more over the board, making them feel more controlled.
When I tried 8.5 trucks on 8.25 width decks, the pinches felt more off to the side. It’s sort of counterintuitive, you would think it would be a better experience. But hey, there are people that prefer wider trucks than their their board afterall, so its worth a shot.
If you wanna save money and not get entirely new trucks but still want to get an idea of what wider trucks feel like, just throw some extra spacers in so your wheels stick out further. I tried this out too, didn’t really make much of a difference…
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149 is the best - I really think they're noticeably better feeling riding/grinding/whatever. It feels like Indy is designed to be at that size and the other ones feel like weird modifications of that model.
I ditched 139 and started skating 149 in 2012, with DLX 8.25s. At the time I remember there being two camps: 1) those who made the switch too. 2) Those who said I'd never be able to flip my board again.
Day one I had no issues with flip tricks and never looked back haha. Other than brief attempts at other truck brands I've pretty faithfully stuck to them, mostly on FA 8.38 (now shape2) or 8.5. IMO it works perfect 8.25-8.5.
Admittedly I've only ever had two sets of 144's - once when they first came out, and once recently when the shop didn't have any 149 and I thought I'd just be Mr. Chill-don't care guy. Both times I kinda didn't like them. Stuck with them for a bit the first time but this recent time I gave up after a month and ponied up for the 149s.
I half write this off as me being a psycho, but I will say - if you're a crooked grinder you won't know how you dealt with anything other than the 149's width.
I've currently got an amazing set going minus the squeakiest pivot cup on planet earth on the front truck.. I want to tinker and fix it but history tells me this will send me back to truck purgatory so I will chill >:(
I just went 144, after 149 for four years. It was all in my head about it being any different, but I’ve actually forgotten about them being 144.
Maaaaybe there’s a bit more slip out potential when turning? My kickflip got a little easier… since I’m terrible at them the improvement was noticeable.
Haven’t tried crooked yet on 144. Expecting it to be easier though as I learned them on 139’s a long time ago (and haven’t even really tried them much at all in the last four years).
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I didn't love going from 148 to 149 Thunders, but I've almost exclusively had 8.25" trucks since I came back to skating. I usually just use a few washers inside to push the wheels out slightly since I ride a lot of 8.38s
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I didn't love going from 148 to 149 Thunders, but I've almost exclusively had 8.25" trucks since I came back to skating. I usually just use a few washers inside to push the wheels out slightly since I ride a lot of 8.38s
I think I would only fit 2 washers on the inside of Thunder 148s before I get nervous about the nut falling off. That happened to me a long time ago and sent me head first onto the concrete which was really shitty. How many washers inside are the max before the nut falls off for ya all?
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Good reading the different experiences with 144 to 149 sized trucks - people will often have things work better for their specific skating, but sometimes you have to try it first to see if it works for you, more so than anything else.
I started back on Indy 139s, 3 washers on the inside, none on the outside on 8 and 8.125 boards a long time ago (maybe twenty years), then from 2017 the first 144s on the 8.125 boards, two washers on the inside as the trucks sat nicely with the wheels on the edge of the board.
Then 2018 or so went up to 149s on 8.38 or 8.5 sized boards for the most part, back to three washers on the inside as a regular thing, sometimes even four washers if the bearings seemed like they were seated with room, nuts on the very end of the axle and never falling off, but if they were ever finger tight to put them on all the way, they would get swapped out without hesitation. Always keep a good supply of spare nuts, bought in bulk I will never run out, but I keep and use more in the shop than I do at home.
I still see some people with one or no washers and smashed axle ends that need rethreading whenever they have to change out wheels or bearings, so I will usually offer free washers to put on if they want them - some people do, others do not for whatever reason. I bought bulk packs of washers from various sources too, including ebay, skate distros, etc with some being thicker and some thinner, so sometimes to mix and match washer widths helps too.
Having all washers on the inside of my trucks to push the wheels right out will give me a few extra mm of hanger, so the 149s are almost 151s or so anyway, but I often ride wider wheels so they end up fairly normal compared to thinner wheels with minimal washers. More than anything it is about having the wheels in line with the edge of the board, not under and not over, that makes it just right for me anyway.
That said, I can really feel the difference in any width truck, but if it is matched to the board width, it all works well for me, from 8 with 139s, 8.125 to 8.25 with 144s, 8.38 to 8.5 with 149s, 8.6 to 8.75 with 159s or 9 to 9.25 with 169s, even though some of those truck sizes can be a bit here or there to the boards, or even board widths vary, some with taper or shaped boards means changing truck sizes.
Gotta say though, that old unchanged DLX 8.25 shape does work well on 149s too, as it is a bit wider, but other true 8.25 boards just look and feel too narrow on my usual 149s when I had tried that sort of setup.
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I didn't love going from 148 to 149 Thunders, but I've almost exclusively had 8.25" trucks since I came back to skating. I usually just use a few washers inside to push the wheels out slightly since I ride a lot of 8.38s
I think I would only fit 2 washers on the inside of Thunder 148s before I get nervous about the nut falling off. That happened to me a long time ago and sent me head first onto the concrete which was really shitty. How many washers inside are the max before the nut falls off for ya all?
I got three washers on inside, one outside. Bones v1 shape. Indy’s
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Same- any new truck seems to fit 4 total washers to get the nut flush. Right now on Venture 5.6 I have 2 inside and 1 out cuz I skated them too long with just 1 and the axle ends wore down a bit
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Could somebody tell me if ace and indy parts (hanger/baseplate) are compatible? Could get some titaniums or forged mids suuuuper cheap, and that would be an additional reason for me since I have a lot of ace parts.
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I've been thinking about going back to riding Indy after being on Aces for couple years. Nothing wrong with Aces really, I just wanna change my shit up. I would be mostly cruising and skating transition so I'm thinking about either 159s or if they're worth it, the Stage 4 151s.
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151s are a super fun diversion from Aces but they are heavy and the KP clearance is limited. Also, I personally prefer the Ace turn to the Stage 4 turn. I relegated my Stage 4s to a nostalgic reissue set up.
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Apologies if this has already been asked but, I recently got a pair of 144 forged hollows for a second setup and started to notice the sound of the truck when the wheels smack the ground was pretty gross. As well as the sound and feel even of grinding, rolling over cracks, and just in general felt nowhere near as good coming from solid axel AF1s.
I heard Ben Degros say something about the forged plate being responsible for the "tinny" sound which makes sense. So my madness and curiosity made me try out the indy hollow hanger with an Ace classic baseplate. Sounds better than the forged plate but still has a kinda bunk sound & feel IMO. Sorry if this is blasphemy to anyone lol
So my question is basically will a solid axle indy standard have a more (no pun intended) solid feel and sound? Because riding the hollows coming off my AF1s makes the indys feel almost like a toy or something. I skated indy standards for years when I was younger and never paid attention and remember them feeling a lot nicer. What do you guys think bc Im itching to pull the trigger on a pair of standards and sell my lightly skated 144 forged hollows
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Its the hollow axle. Think about it- any reverberations pass through the wheels onto the axle, some is taken off by the material of bushings/pivot cups and can echo into the kingpin a bit. Personally I love the way the Venture V Cast sound, but in the past thought FH Indys sounded weird.
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149 is the best - I really think they're noticeably better feeling riding/grinding/whatever. It feels like Indy is designed to be at that size and the other ones feel like weird modifications of that model.
I ditched 139 and started skating 149 in 2012, with DLX 8.25s. At the time I remember there being two camps: 1) those who made the switch too. 2) Those who said I'd never be able to flip my board again.
Day one I had no issues with flip tricks and never looked back haha. Other than brief attempts at other truck brands I've pretty faithfully stuck to them, mostly on FA 8.38 (now shape2) or 8.5. IMO it works perfect 8.25-8.5.
Admittedly I've only ever had two sets of 144's - once when they first came out, and once recently when the shop didn't have any 149 and I thought I'd just be Mr. Chill-don't care guy. Both times I kinda didn't like them. Stuck with them for a bit the first time but this recent time I gave up after a month and ponied up for the 149s.
I half write this off as me being a psycho, but I will say - if you're a crooked grinder you won't know how you dealt with anything other than the 149's width.
I've currently got an amazing set going minus the squeakiest pivot cup on planet earth on the front truck.. I want to tinker and fix it but history tells me this will send me back to truck purgatory so I will chill >:(
interesting thought in the 149s being the size they are built around. i feel like there is some truth to this theory, trucks being optimized at a specific size.
for me, with indy’s, 159s felt the best. noticeably. i haven’t had a set of 149s that i loved. cannot figure that out. that was the size i really wanted to work, and i just haven’t been able to feel it.
one day
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Apologies if this has already been asked but, I recently got a pair of 144 forged hollows for a second setup and started to notice the sound of the truck when the wheels smack the ground was pretty gross. As well as the sound and feel even of grinding, rolling over cracks, and just in general felt nowhere near as good coming from solid axel AF1s.
I heard Ben Degros say something about the forged plate being responsible for the "tinny" sound which makes sense. So my madness and curiosity made me try out the indy hollow hanger with an Ace classic baseplate. Sounds better than the forged plate but still has a kinda bunk sound & feel IMO. Sorry if this is blasphemy to anyone lol
So my question is basically will a solid axle indy standard have a more (no pun intended) solid feel and sound? Because riding the hollows coming off my AF1s makes the indys feel almost like a toy or something. I skated indy standards for years when I was younger and never paid attention and remember them feeling a lot nicer. What do you guys think bc Im itching to pull the trigger on a pair of standards and sell my lightly skated 144 forged hollows
I run hollows (normal baseplate) and I put liquid nail/epoxy in the bottom (board side) side of the kingpin to fill the hole and reduce the sound coming from that opening.
It helped, and I’m sure filling the axle will reduce the sound even more. (But… would really need to make sure the axle doesn’t get “stripped” from misplaced epoxy glue/liquid nails)
I had titaniums before and when I switched to standard cast baseplate from the forged, it sounded so much more like a solid deep satisfying indy grind. My chunky ledge grinding went from “crrrriiiiiiiichhhiichchchhh” to “crrruuuunnnchhchchcchhchch”
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Apologies if this has already been asked but, I recently got a pair of 144 forged hollows for a second setup and started to notice the sound of the truck when the wheels smack the ground was pretty gross. As well as the sound and feel even of grinding, rolling over cracks, and just in general felt nowhere near as good coming from solid axel AF1s.
I heard Ben Degros say something about the forged plate being responsible for the "tinny" sound which makes sense. So my madness and curiosity made me try out the indy hollow hanger with an Ace classic baseplate. Sounds better than the forged plate but still has a kinda bunk sound & feel IMO. Sorry if this is blasphemy to anyone lol
So my question is basically will a solid axle indy standard have a more (no pun intended) solid feel and sound? Because riding the hollows coming off my AF1s makes the indys feel almost like a toy or something. I skated indy standards for years when I was younger and never paid attention and remember them feeling a lot nicer. What do you guys think bc Im itching to pull the trigger on a pair of standards and sell my lightly skated 144 forged hollows
One thing that quite a few people have found with new Indy trucks is the pivot cup is very hard and often makes the board sound like it has a blown pivot cup, that little bit more metal on metal noise when it drops or truck hits the ground, so just check to see if there is movement in the pivot cup area and swap them out for some other basic / generic pivot cups or put a little something else in there to soften the pivot point from the hanger and more often than not, suddenly you don't have that weird noise any more.
I got a lot of pivot cups in just for this purpose, with quite a few sets of new Indy trucks just sounding a bit off, then switch out pivot cups and they sound like every other normal truck.
You don't need any super fancy expensive pivot cups either - I just got the generic ones from DLX (Thunder) or even the other couple of generic ones on the market from other suppliers and they do the job.
Of course there could be other things, as others have mentioned too, but this is the most common single issue I have found with any Indy truck since they changed and this started happening from around 2020 or 2021, so I have swapped out a lot of pivot cups since then for people, including on my own boards with the newer trucks.
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my new 144 hollows on my new DLX have been turning to the side like the holes on the deck are crooked, or the truck is crooked.
is there any chance the holes are slightly off, or would it be something with the truck? (I've got a few days riding on them, so they're a little broken in).
It's not like the hangar is stuck to one side either.
it's driving me bonkers. any thing to try?
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Per question a few posts back, I religiously ride the DLX 8.25/14.38. Prior to 8.25 trucks being a thing, I rode it with 149s. Once 144s came out, I have ridden those. However, I have dabbled with 149s on several occasions. Here are my experiences with both (w/53mm Spitfire Classics):
Magic Carpet v. Hot Rod
144s: Slight magic carpet on wheels. Axles flush to deck.
149s: Axle nuts slightly hot-rod. Wheels are flush to deck.
Turn
149s absolutely have a better feeling, and more stable turn, IMHO. The lateral wheelbase of 144s just doesn't seem to have the same "magic" as 149s, and the 144 turn feels more...cramped, tight, and less fluid/fun.
Grinds
I do not like the feeling of "cross locked" grinds on mini ramps or street. Also, when doing any type of 1-truck grind, I want a good lock-in. With 149s, I notice more of "lateral slop" with grinds. Cross-Lock feel more exaggerated when I end up in one (which I do not like). 5-0, nose grinds, hurricanes, etc. seem to "float" a tad before finding their groove. I don't like my trucks to have lots of lateral movement getting-into/during grinds, and I feel that 144s have less of that than 149s, which is a good thing for me (whereas 139s feels way too tight-rope). 144s are the perfect medium. With crooks, like someone else said, I like my weight a little more inside than outside. So, here, too, I like 144s better. Oh, I can Smith grind better on single-sided ledges/ramps with 149s, however.
Weight Distribution / Center of Gravity
Here, also, I feel like 144s cause me to keep my center of gravity more over the center of the deck. I do a ton of feeble to fakie, pivot to fakie, axle to fakie, nose pick to fwd, etc. type tricks on mini ramps. Here, 144s also seem to keep me more centered over the middle of the deck during the balance point and reentry.
Flip Tricks
They seem easier to flip on 144s, but the landing on 149s feel more stable/solid (which makes sense, because overall 149s feel more solid/stable).
Weight
My board def feels heavier with 149s.
Overall, I stick with 144s. Are these differences real, and substantive enough to create any actual differences, or are they just reality because perception can become reality? That's for you to find out (and post about in the Madness thread. Lol.)
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my new 144 hollows on my new DLX have been turning to the side like the holes on the deck are crooked, or the truck is crooked.
is there any chance the holes are slightly off, or would it be something with the truck? (I've got a few days riding on them, so they're a little broken in).
It's not like the hangar is stuck to one side either.
it's driving me bonkers. any thing to try?
Gotta break them in yo
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Apologies if this has already been asked but, I recently got a pair of 144 forged hollows for a second setup and started to notice the sound of the truck when the wheels smack the ground was pretty gross. As well as the sound and feel even of grinding, rolling over cracks, and just in general felt nowhere near as good coming from solid axel AF1s.
I heard Ben Degros say something about the forged plate being responsible for the "tinny" sound which makes sense. So my madness and curiosity made me try out the indy hollow hanger with an Ace classic baseplate. Sounds better than the forged plate but still has a kinda bunk sound & feel IMO. Sorry if this is blasphemy to anyone lol
So my question is basically will a solid axle indy standard have a more (no pun intended) solid feel and sound? Because riding the hollows coming off my AF1s makes the indys feel almost like a toy or something. I skated indy standards for years when I was younger and never paid attention and remember them feeling a lot nicer. What do you guys think bc Im itching to pull the trigger on a pair of standards and sell my lightly skated 144 forged hollows
One thing that quite a few people have found with new Indy trucks is the pivot cup is very hard and often makes the board sound like it has a blown pivot cup, that little bit more metal on metal noise when it drops or truck hits the ground, so just check to see if there is movement in the pivot cup area and swap them out for some other basic / generic pivot cups or put a little something else in there to soften the pivot point from the hanger and more often than not, suddenly you don't have that weird noise any more.
I got a lot of pivot cups in just for this purpose, with quite a few sets of new Indy trucks just sounding a bit off, then switch out pivot cups and they sound like every other normal truck.
You don't need any super fancy expensive pivot cups either - I just got the generic ones from DLX (Thunder) or even the other couple of generic ones on the market from other suppliers and they do the job.
Of course there could be other things, as others have mentioned too, but this is the most common single issue I have found with any Indy truck since they changed and this started happening from around 2020 or 2021, so I have swapped out a lot of pivot cups since then for people, including on my own boards with the newer trucks.
Call me a kook but I swap out all my pivot cups for the internally lubricated Riptide cups. Sure they are a bit pricey but they eliminate all slop, provide silky turn and more stability - along with getting rid of any speaks and creaks.
They produce all their cups from exact molds of particular truck types and go through rigorous testing before coming to market. Try them out if you haven't already - just get the right cups for your type of trucks.
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Call me a kook but I swap out all my pivot cups for the internally lubricated Riptide cups. Sure they are a bit pricey but they eliminate all slop, provide silky turn and more stability - along with getting rid of any speaks and creaks.
They produce all their cups from exact molds of particular truck types and go through rigorous testing before coming to market. Try them out if you haven't already - just get the right cups for your type of trucks.
There are others on here who swear by Riptide pivot cups, so you are not alone there.
For the price in USA it might be worth it, but here in AU they are $20+ just for a set of two, whereas the generic decent ones are about $1 each, so that is twenty pivot cups, vs two, for the same price.
I don't doubt that they work really well for whatever truck you put them in, but the high price and minimal access means they are a no go for a fair percentage of skateboarders in some places.
* Rad that they do go above and beyond to make such a good product, as per other people talking about them too, so no worries in that regard.
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Apologies if this has already been asked but, I recently got a pair of 144 forged hollows for a second setup and started to notice the sound of the truck when the wheels smack the ground was pretty gross. As well as the sound and feel even of grinding, rolling over cracks, and just in general felt nowhere near as good coming from solid axel AF1s.
I heard Ben Degros say something about the forged plate being responsible for the "tinny" sound which makes sense. So my madness and curiosity made me try out the indy hollow hanger with an Ace classic baseplate. Sounds better than the forged plate but still has a kinda bunk sound & feel IMO. Sorry if this is blasphemy to anyone lol
So my question is basically will a solid axle indy standard have a more (no pun intended) solid feel and sound? Because riding the hollows coming off my AF1s makes the indys feel almost like a toy or something. I skated indy standards for years when I was younger and never paid attention and remember them feeling a lot nicer. What do you guys think bc Im itching to pull the trigger on a pair of standards and sell my lightly skated 144 forged hollows
It helped, and I’m sure filling the axle will reduce the sound even more. (But… would really need to make sure the axle doesn’t get “stripped” from misplaced epoxy glue/liquid nails)
I had titaniums before and when I switched to standard cast baseplate from the forged, it sounded so much more like a solid deep satisfying indy grind. My chunky ledge grinding went from “crrrriiiiiiiichhhiichchchhh” to “crrruuuunnnchhchchcchhchch”
daaamn hahah kinda wish I wouldve tried that epoxy idea. Genius, oh well. Sold my FH 144s to a homie yesterday and got some 149 standards today so fuck it. I have plenty of broken in bushings so the break in period will be chill
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my new 144 hollows on my new DLX have been turning to the side like the holes on the deck are crooked, or the truck is crooked.
is there any chance the holes are slightly off, or would it be something with the truck? (I've got a few days riding on them, so they're a little broken in).
It's not like the hangar is stuck to one side either.
it's driving me bonkers. any thing to try?
Gotta break them in yo
Thanks Christina.
I took a second look and you could tell the truck was indeed on crooked a little bit. I just loosened the bolts and straightened the truck out. (Are there bolts that don’t wiggle around in the deck holes? I have small head bolts and kind of smoothed out the grip tape with a screwdriver so the grip wouldn’t strip the bolt thread going in or out. I’m thinking that was a mistake and I should push that shit through the grip tape like a real skateboarder next time)
Hopefully it fixed it. Can’t test till tomorrow when it’s dry out.
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@Sedition I gather your Venture experiment didn't go well?
With Indy I can definitely agree that 139s compared to 149 are definitely twitchier/squirrlier feeling. I dunno how, but I'd get less wheelbite on them, but I'd step off of stuff when landing more. Never got to compare 144/149 close together, but I did with Thunder 148/149 and preferred the 148 actually. I got more frequent wheelbite with 149 but agree with everything else you said. It likely was mental, but any trick that scooped didn't feel quite as good.
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@Sedition I gather your Venture experiment didn't go well?
I messed around with them for a week or so. I liked Forged better than Cast (which oddly felt too high for me). The entire week I was like, "These are decent...but, I miss my Indys." I put my Indys back to see how different they felt, intending it to only be a short comparison (e.g. setting up Ventures again in short time), but the Indys just never came off. Not two days ago I was looking at the Ventures again thinking, "I need to either retry these, or donate them to Fresno Skateboard Salvage. https://www.fresnoskateboardsalvage.org/ (https://www.fresnoskateboardsalvage.org/)
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my new 144 hollows on my new DLX have been turning to the side like the holes on the deck are crooked, or the truck is crooked.
is there any chance the holes are slightly off, or would it be something with the truck? (I've got a few days riding on them, so they're a little broken in).
It's not like the hangar is stuck to one side either.
it's driving me bonkers. any thing to try?
Gotta break them in yo
I took a second look and you could tell the truck was indeed on crooked a little bit. I just loosened the bolts and straightened the truck out. (Are there bolts that don’t wiggle around in the deck holes? I have small head bolts and kind of smoothed out the grip tape with a screwdriver so the grip wouldn’t strip the bolt thread going in or out. I’m thinking that was a mistake and I should push that shit through the grip tape like a real skateboarder next time)
Hopefully it fixed it. Can’t test till tomorrow when it’s dry out.
Okay.... so the truck is not on crooked nor is the bolt holes crooked.... Measured them from the side.....
It's the bushing. Just had to bend it the other way. ::)
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anyone else feel like indys work best in the winter?
idk i find myself rotating between indys for the winter and aces for spring-summer
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anyone else feel like indys work best in the winter?
idk i find myself rotating between indys for the winter and aces for spring-summer
I guess quite a few people have bushing issues, same bushings can be too soft / loose in warmer weather and then too hard / tight in colder weather, especially in places of ice / snow part year round.
Might be a pain changing things but sometimes having different duro bushings for different conditions is a solution, if the trucks can easily be changed.
Someone else on here said they just take out the bottom washer during winter and the trucks work the same as in summer for them, which seems like a simple fix, but maybe not one that would work for everyone.
What bushings do you have in your trucks - all stock?
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all stock bushings
occasionally the ace hards on back truck
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all stock bushings
occasionally the ace hards on back truck
Nice.
I feel like a lot of people recommend the Indy 92 duro bushings, which are just a touch more sturdy than the stock bushings, or a touch more stiff, you could say.
They are good for a slightly better option than stock, last longer in some cases too.
Never tried the Ace hard, but I have heard good things about them too.
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my new 144 hollows on my new DLX have been turning to the side like the holes on the deck are crooked, or the truck is crooked.
is there any chance the holes are slightly off, or would it be something with the truck? (I've got a few days riding on them, so they're a little broken in).
It's not like the hangar is stuck to one side either.
it's driving me bonkers. any thing to try?
Gotta break them in yo
I took a second look and you could tell the truck was indeed on crooked a little bit. I just loosened the bolts and straightened the truck out. (Are there bolts that don’t wiggle around in the deck holes? I have small head bolts and kind of smoothed out the grip tape with a screwdriver so the grip wouldn’t strip the bolt thread going in or out. I’m thinking that was a mistake and I should push that shit through the grip tape like a real skateboarder next time)
Hopefully it fixed it. Can’t test till tomorrow when it’s dry out.
Mine did that for about a month hit up Indy at the cut off of the warranty and they sent out new ones
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I feel like a lot of people recommend the Indy 92 duro bushings...
I swear by these.
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I feel like a lot of people recommend the Indy 92 duro bushings...
I swear by these.
Funny cause someone else I skated with today is a convert to the 92 duro bushings as well - had tried the the 96, then the 94 and now loving the 92 duro bushings for a bit more turn than what was going on before, but way more stable than the stock bushings that came in the trucks they had, which just didn't work at all for them.
Pretty happy I got so many of them when I could (when I had shop access and they went on a crazy clearance from the previous distributor here in AU), so I jokingly say I have a lifetime supply of Indy 92 duro bushings for all my setups as well as anyone else who needs them.
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I feel like a lot of people recommend the Indy 92 duro bushings...
I swear by these.
The blue conicals are my favorite. They don't seem to freeze up much at all in the cold weather either which is a plus living in Indiana haha.
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I feel like a lot of people recommend the Indy 92 duro bushings...
I swear by these.
You might have been the one from the bushing thread that sold me on getting the blues. Thanks for that.
I really want to try the conical ones now, as that’s what I loved way back when I first started skating on the stage 7 or 8.
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Just ordered another 3 sets of the conical blues, just in case.
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The blues fucking rule. Took a break from skating Ventures today, was on my 8.38 DLX with 144 Indy Titaniums and blue barrels, shit felt so good all around.
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Blues are the ultimate "extra medium" bushing. If you ride them flush, they provide a good stable turn, but not too twitchy. or too loose. A few cranks down, and they will ride quite tight, if you're hitting some big transition, steep hill, etc. No other bushing, IMHO, is as versatile as the Blues. And if you want a little deeper turn, the Blue conicals are your jam.
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MY WAR! But it’s just me swapping trucks until I finally go back to Indys :D
Grabbed some 149 standards from my local today. No adjustments just bolted them down and they broke in quick. A little squeaky but I couldn’t care less at this point. I’m just happy to have that familiar turn again.
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I can’t remember where I posted that I had crooked trucks, then I was sure it was new bushings….
But now I know the truth: the damn Indy “pivot point” (thanks Brinson) is wiggly loose in the pivot cup.
That whole nyjah kick the trucks thing he does? That’s what I have to do to get them straight in there again.
What am I supposed to do? Are there pivot cups that are larger somewhere? How do I even get the pivot cups out cause they are in there pretty good.
I feel dumb asking, but this is stuff I just didn’t worry about when I was younger.
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old pivots that are not going to be reused get pried out with an axle end. if you're trying to save them, you'll need things like reverse needle nose pliers or small screwdriver and needle nose pliers. compressed air can blow them out if you do it right.
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old pivots that are not going to be reused get pried out with an axle end. if you're trying to save them, you'll need things like reverse needle nose pliers or small screwdriver and needle nose pliers. compressed air can blow them out if you do it right.
Thanks appreciate it
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could be wrong, but i’m seeing more and more indy (mostly on ig). seems like a fair amount of the younger dudes from japan are using indy, maybe even 139s?
indy never left, but they’ve been less ubiquitous as i glance around the parks
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could be wrong, but i’m seeing more and more indy (mostly on ig). seems like a fair amount of the younger dudes from japan are using indy, maybe even 139s?
indy never left, but they’ve been less ubiquitous as i glance around the parks
Sorry, I don’t follow. ubiquitous means “appearing everywhere”, so are you saying you’re only seeing more and more Indy in Japan and IG, but less at your local parks?
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could be wrong, but i’m seeing more and more indy (mostly on ig). seems like a fair amount of the younger dudes from japan are using indy, maybe even 139s?
indy never left, but they’ve been less ubiquitous as i glance around the parks
I think the 2020 cross debate / removal combined with the displeasure of manufacturing all going to China (from around 2018 or so) was a big step down overall for the brand, especially with Ace really coming through hard with AF1 and then other brands like Venture getting a lot more happening too, but I don't know if Indy ever lost the place at the top of the truck brand list.
Thinking Indy might have bounced back somewhat now with people just liking the feel of Indy more, or whatever reasons after trying whatever other truck brands out there, but it could also have something to do with local distibutors who push a lot more product on / send packages to a lot more skaters in certain areas / countries too.
I can’t remember where I posted that I had crooked trucks, then I was sure it was new bushings….
But now I know the truth: the damn Indy “pivot point” (thanks Brinson) is wiggly loose in the pivot cup.
That whole nyjah kick the trucks thing he does? That’s what I have to do to get them straight in there again.
What am I supposed to do? Are there pivot cups that are larger somewhere? How do I even get the pivot cups out cause they are in there pretty good.
I feel dumb asking, but this is stuff I just didn’t worry about when I was younger.
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old pivots that are not going to be reused get pried out with an axle end. if you're trying to save them, you'll need things like reverse needle nose pliers or small screwdriver and needle nose pliers. compressed air can blow them out if you do it right.
Also just saw this going back over the thread - gotta say some pivot cups fit better than others, so although I wouldn't know what is available in any given area, going in somewhere to check and see might be good.
Try the hanger nub in the pivot cup, more so than putting the pivot cup into the baseplate, which will show if it moves around or is a snug fit before buying, or just chance it with whatever you can get, eg Thunder pivot cups seem ok, but I have had a tigher fit with another brand I can't think of right this minute.
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could be wrong, but i’m seeing more and more indy (mostly on ig). seems like a fair amount of the younger dudes from japan are using indy, maybe even 139s?
indy never left, but they’ve been less ubiquitous as i glance around the parks
there was a time, 2012 ish, where for a few years indy was king. this is not science based, just what i saw, where i was. seemed like everyone had indy 149s.
i should have said ‘formerly ubiquitous’
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could be wrong, but i’m seeing more and more indy (mostly on ig). seems like a fair amount of the younger dudes from japan are using indy, maybe even 139s?
indy never left, but they’ve been less ubiquitous as i glance around the parks
there was a time, 2012 ish, where for a few years indy was king. this is not science based, just what i saw, where i was. seemed like everyone had indy 149s.
i should have said ‘formerly ubiquitous’
Ah, okay. thanks
Hmm, I'll have to see what's out there for trucks. My hunch is that Thunder's are most popular around here, but give it a few weeks we'll see what turns up.
Maybe... Reynolds has always been on Indy, maybe that had a lot to do with it. I can see why Indy would not be popular now, and maybe with the cross removal they're more acceptable to be repping; and that's maybe why they're starting to show up more.
all wild guesses.... up late. Happy New Year ;D
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I set up some forged hollow 144’s recently after my Indy hiatus. Threw in some blue 92’s right away, keeping the nut flush because I like to turn. These trucks make a horrid “cracking/snapping” sound. I tried switching pivot cups, oils/wax in pivot cups, switching back to stock bushings, boiling bushings, waxing bushings/washers, changing the washers. Nothing has worked. I never had this issue with Indy’s in the past. I also haven’t skated them since they’ve been made in China though.
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I set up some forged hollow 144’s recently after my Indy hiatus. Threw in some blue 92’s right away, keeping the nut flush because I like to turn. These trucks make a horrid “cracking/snapping” sound. I tried switching pivot cups, oils/wax in pivot cups, switching back to stock bushings, boiling bushings, waxing bushings/washers, changing the washers. Nothing has worked. I never had this issue with Indy’s in the past. I also haven’t skated them since they’ve been made in China though.
I feel like the noise is all in the washer, usually the top one where the nut binds a bit, but the bushings hold it until it "snaps" to one side, even just a very slight amount, but will give that sound every time you turn.
Pivot cups are usually way more of a squeak, high or low, but the washers are the click, snap or crack sound.
Some trucks or more so some bushings will have a lot more of this happening than others, either because the washers have more of a gap / wider hole for the kingpin and will move more.
Putting wax on the underside of the kingpin nut usually stopped any of that noise for me, but even putting something else on the nut or the washers, both top and bottom so they do not make the metal on metal bind and click as much so can move more freely.
That is my take on it anyway, but it could be something else or other factors making things work or not work for you in that regard too.
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I set up some forged hollow 144’s recently after my Indy hiatus. Threw in some blue 92’s right away, keeping the nut flush because I like to turn. These trucks make a horrid “cracking/snapping” sound. I tried switching pivot cups, oils/wax in pivot cups, switching back to stock bushings, boiling bushings, waxing bushings/washers, changing the washers. Nothing has worked. I never had this issue with Indy’s in the past. I also haven’t skated them since they’ve been made in China though.
I've skated both hollow and titanium 144s with blue 92s the past year with no problems.
One thing you could try is to throw in an Ace top washer or a flat one (from e.g. a Bones bushing set). I currently ride my 144 Tits with Ace top washers and they are really nice, biting a bit less on the top bushing and possibly having less potential to snap, crackle and pop as well.
Oh, and another thing that might be of help: put wax on all the parts, not just the pivot cup. I superstitiously wax (not heavily, just a bit) the top washer on the inside, the bottom washer on both sides, plus the part of the hanger where the bushings sit on both sides. Wipe old excess dirt off and re-apply wax when needed.
Call me OCD, but my trucks work great, always turn nice and don't make any sound.
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Going through my order history on skate warehouse and I came upon something curious. Indy used to make forged standards? Like not hollows but standards? That board that had em got stolen but wish I still had em
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I set up some forged hollow 144’s recently after my Indy hiatus. Threw in some blue 92’s right away, keeping the nut flush because I like to turn. These trucks make a horrid “cracking/snapping” sound. I tried switching pivot cups, oils/wax in pivot cups, switching back to stock bushings, boiling bushings, waxing bushings/washers, changing the washers. Nothing has worked. I never had this issue with Indy’s in the past. I also haven’t skated them since they’ve been made in China though.
I feel like the noise is all in the washer, usually the top one where the nut binds a bit, but the bushings hold it until it "snaps" to one side, even just a very slight amount, but will give that sound every time you turn.
Pivot cups are usually way more of a squeak, high or low, but the washers are the click, snap or crack sound.
Some trucks or more so some bushings will have a lot more of this happening than others, either because the washers have more of a gap / wider hole for the kingpin and will move more.
Putting wax on the underside of the kingpin nut usually stopped any of that noise for me, but even putting something else on the nut or the washers, both top and bottom so they do not make the metal on metal bind and click as much so can move more freely.
That is my take on it anyway, but it could be something else or other factors making things work or not work for you in that regard too.
I have that click and I thought it was the bottom washer. I waxed the bottom where it rubs the baseplate, but I didn’t think to wax the top washer. Will have to try
*edit: you know, there might be a washer from hardware store that is flush with the axle so it doesn’t move around…. I bet that would get rid of the stupid clicking.
And I just bought the same 144 hollows trucks, same blues, and have the nut as they come where the white locking plastic is flush with the top of axle.
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Going through my order history on skate warehouse and I came upon something curious. Indy used to make forged standards? Like not hollows but standards? That board that had em got stolen but wish I still had em
The old Stage ten trucks first came with a forged baseplate, big X on the bottom of it, then normal kingpin and normal hanger, no hollow anything.
Not sure if it ever came out in other versions, but this is the only one I recall seeing like that, same as per you or other people posting not too long ago about them - still got one here, black baseplate, silver hanger with circle logo, clear red conical bushings.
Now things only come in:
Standard / cast / solid
Standard hollow / cast baseplate / hollow kingpin and axle
Forged baseplate, hollow kingpin and axle
Forged baseplate hollow kingpin, ti axle
Any other variations that come stock? I know people mess with things, make some this and that from various parts.
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Going through my order history on skate warehouse and I came upon something curious. Indy used to make forged standards? Like not hollows but standards? That board that had em got stolen but wish I still had em
The old Stage ten trucks first came with a forged baseplate, big X on the bottom of it, then normal kingpin and normal hanger, no hollow anything.
Not sure if it ever came out in other versions, but this is the only one I recall seeing like that, same as per you or other people posting not too long ago about them - still got one here, black baseplate, silver hanger with circle logo, clear red conical bushings.
Now things only come in:
Standard / cast / solid
Standard hollow / cast baseplate / hollow kingpin and axle
Forged baseplate, hollow kingpin and axle
Forged baseplate hollow kingpin, ti axle
Any other variations that come stock? I know people mess with things, make some this and that from various parts.
These were stage 11 back in 2014 tho just suprised I can’t find anything on them anymore
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Sorry for the big fans of independent down to the smallest detail, but what a joy to have replaced the standard bushings with the bones medium.. The standard bushings on my forged hollows were horrible.. At the beginning it squeaked for a very long time and they did not soften, it remained very rigid in sensation. I tried a little wax on the bushings and the pivot cup, that helped but I ended up having a truck bolt that kept coming loose on its own.. There was also this instability.. The bones save the game, although they wear out quickly it seems, for independents I would only use that..
It's strange because I skated independents 6 years ago and I didn't have these problems at all.. The bushings were very soft and were easy to do.. Is this since they were manufactured in China ?
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Sorry for the big fans of independent down to the smallest detail, but what a joy to have replaced the standard bushings with the bones medium.. The standard bushings on my forged hollows were horrible.. At the beginning it squeaked for a very long time and they did not soften, it remained very rigid in sensation. I tried a little wax on the bushings and the pivot cup, that helped but I ended up having a truck bolt that kept coming loose on its own.. There was also this instability.. The bones save the game, although they wear out quickly it seems, for independents I would only use that..
It's strange because I skated independents 6 years ago and I didn't have these problems at all.. The bushings were very soft and were easy to do.. Is this since they were manufactured in China ?
Bones are the worst. Such limited hardness options, the blow-outs, etc. Get Indy aftermarket 92a Blues, and the world will be at peace.
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Sorry for the big fans of independent down to the smallest detail, but what a joy to have replaced the standard bushings with the bones medium.. The standard bushings on my forged hollows were horrible.. At the beginning it squeaked for a very long time and they did not soften, it remained very rigid in sensation. I tried a little wax on the bushings and the pivot cup, that helped but I ended up having a truck bolt that kept coming loose on its own.. There was also this instability.. The bones save the game, although they wear out quickly it seems, for independents I would only use that..
It's strange because I skated independents 6 years ago and I didn't have these problems at all.. The bushings were very soft and were easy to do.. Is this since they were manufactured in China ?
The usual orange stock bushings haven't changed for a while now, but they definitely are not at all hard, almost not even medium feeling when new, being so squishy and take a bit to break in nicely, so either you might have an old set of trucks or something else happen or going on with them.
The bushings should be fairly translucent orange, with circles round on the underside of each bushing, but older ones are more a solid colour often with more of an unfinished edge to the underside, bubbles and whatever else in them, but were quite firm to start with.
I am guessing because of the squeaking that they were not new new, as all the new new trucks I have set up or messed with in the last few years have zero squeaks at first and it is only old stock or trucks people have changed bushings in that usually squeak or have other things happen.
Regardless, if you have found things that work for you, no worries and at least things should be better now than when you had issues with them.
Do you have the metal washers on the Bones bushings too, or no washers / only the flat black one that comes with those Bones bushings packs?
I had seen when people used the stock or any other more normal washers, their Bones bushings tended to last longer, but they are still prone to squashing down and splitting, which is why I don't really use them.
If you have Bones mediums, can you easily push your truck to each side with your hands, wheel hitting deck? That is how the last set of Bones medium bushings were in a set of Indy trucks. The guy was super light and was surprised I could do that, but he said he didn't usually get wheelbite much, so it didn't matter to him.
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Bones are the worst. Such limited hardness options, the blow-outs, etc. Get Indy aftermarket 92a Blues, and the world will be at peace.
Yeah I am all for those Indy bushings and seen way too many Bones bushings blown out, sometimes even in the first run when someone just went too hard on them, but I was more surprised to see he said the stock 90 duro bushings were too stiff / hard, so I don't quite know what is going on there.
If that was the case, then the 92 duro medium hard would not be much help to him, going harder again.
Any which way, I can only help so much without seeing or riding a board, but it seems like it's sorted anyway.
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Indys and bones [med] bushings (when I weighed 175lbs) feel like old shoes.
Honestly aside of riding the softs, I have never had blow out issues with mediums, let alone hards (which I've been skating off and on recently being 190lbs+) in decades of skating them - from when they launched to now.
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Sorry for the big fans of independent down to the smallest detail, but what a joy to have replaced the standard bushings with the bones medium.. The standard bushings on my forged hollows were horrible.. At the beginning it squeaked for a very long time and they did not soften, it remained very rigid in sensation. I tried a little wax on the bushings and the pivot cup, that helped but I ended up having a truck bolt that kept coming loose on its own.. There was also this instability.. The bones save the game, although they wear out quickly it seems, for independents I would only use that..
It's strange because I skated independents 6 years ago and I didn't have these problems at all.. The bushings were very soft and were easy to do.. Is this since they were manufactured in China ?
might be really, really old stock trucks, kinda sounds like the early Chinese bushings and pivots. the ones that are out now are some of the best they have ever made imo (bushings, pivots are just ok). old bushing in 80's, 90's sucked but in a different ways, they would turn into rocks, crack or just desegregate.
also, bones bushings suck!
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Honestly the biggest problem was also that I had a truck that unscrewed itself until it almost lost its nut.. And yet, I ride on medium and not loose trucks.. For the squeaking and rigidity, I assure you that this was happening and that my trucks were new.. I ride venture for a long time, and I never had this problem. For the bones bushings, I would form my own opinion, I have a friend who has been riding them on venture lows for 2/3 years, they have never cracked.. I'm not heavy, that could be an advantage (143.30047 Ib)
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The more I skate Indy Titaniums with Indy blue 92s, the more I love skateboarding on top of the endless love I already have for it.
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https://youtube.com/shorts/8X4jfw0fZs4?si=3RKrohQGdLxv92Z9 (https://youtube.com/shorts/8X4jfw0fZs4?si=3RKrohQGdLxv92Z9)
Here a video from this summer after 1 and a half month of skating with standard bushings. So you see what I mean. I was in medium loose setting and not tight as one might think because of the noise.
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Honestly the biggest problem was also that I had a truck that unscrewed itself until it almost lost its nut..
So a normal set of trucks, nut on firmly (not half off already) and you shouldn't have any sort of problems like this. Nut half off if you couldn't get the truck loose enough and sure you are going to have issues, just like a guy I know who had to always stop and retighten his kingpin nut as it was only half on the kingpin. Gotta have that nut at least down completely on the kingpin for things to hold as the nyloc is only in the top thread or so, not the rest of it.
Failing that, replace the nut and it should be fine.
If it was an inverted kingpin or some other weird thing, then sure that happens all the time and is fairly common, but I thought we were talking about a normal (not mid) set of forged hollow or whatever trucks.
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https://youtube.com/shorts/8X4jfw0fZs4?si=3RKrohQGdLxv92Z9 (https://youtube.com/shorts/8X4jfw0fZs4?si=3RKrohQGdLxv92Z9)
Here a video from this summer after 1 and a half month of skating with standard bushings. So you see what I mean. I was in medium loose setting and not tight as one might think because of the noise.
I can definitely hear squeaks.
Doesn't look like the trucks turn much at all for you on that video, but like anything, a quick clip or two doesn't really show a whole lot, compared to seeing a board in detail or even better, if it is in person and then helping people figure out what is making noise and where, or then fixing it for them.
Rad clips too - always cool to see others skating, not just talking about shop or product or whatever.
:)
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https://youtube.com/shorts/8X4jfw0fZs4?si=3RKrohQGdLxv92Z9 (https://youtube.com/shorts/8X4jfw0fZs4?si=3RKrohQGdLxv92Z9)
Here a video from this summer after 1 and a half month of skating with standard bushings. So you see what I mean. I was in medium loose setting and not tight as one might think because of the noise.
Whoah! Pretty good skating!
But those squeaks and cracks ruined my enjoyment completely. :o
(I’m going to hardware store today to see if I can find washers that fit the kingpin better. I hate hearing this cracking because the washers hit up against the kingpin. I don’t remember how old Indy’s were on the washers but they were definitely not cracking.)
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https://youtube.com/shorts/8X4jfw0fZs4?si=3RKrohQGdLxv92Z9 (https://youtube.com/shorts/8X4jfw0fZs4?si=3RKrohQGdLxv92Z9)
Here a video from this summer after 1 and a half month of skating with standard bushings. So you see what I mean. I was in medium loose setting and not tight as one might think because of the noise.
But those squeaks and cracks ruined my enjoyment completely. :o
(I’m going to hardware store today to see if I can find washers that fit the kingpin better. I hate hearing this cracking because the washers hit up against the kingpin. I don’t remember how old Indy’s were on the washers but they were definitely not cracking.)
Oh thank you very much! I'm surprised, however, these are two simple things that I often do in switch ;D
Well with the bones bushings there is no more noise at all, it's a real pleasure.. Even if they don't last long, I would be very happy !
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@Sedition I gather your Venture experiment didn't go well?
I messed around with them for a week or so. I liked Forged better than Cast (which oddly felt too high for me). The entire week I was like, "These are decent...but, I miss my Indys." I put my Indys back to see how different they felt, intending it to only be a short comparison (e.g. setting up Ventures again in short time), but the Indys just never came off. Not two days ago I was looking at the Ventures again thinking, "I need to either retry these, or donate them to Fresno Skateboard Salvage. https://www.fresnoskateboardsalvage.org/ (https://www.fresnoskateboardsalvage.org/)
I went through the same thing in late '22/early '23. The Ventures were fine and, if I wanted to, I could have probably learned to do everything with them, but ultimately they didn't appear to offer me any advantage over the Indy and Ace trucks to which I have become so accustomed over the past ~10 years, and the joy of the deep carve was gone.
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The more I skate Indy Titaniums with Indy blue 92s, the more I love skateboarding on top of the endless love I already have for it.
What size trucks?
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The more I skate Indy Titaniums with Indy blue 92s, the more I love skateboarding on top of the endless love I already have for it.
What size trucks?
i always wanted to use titanium to allow me to flip like 169s. didn’t seem to work that way for me
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Honestly the biggest problem was also that I had a truck that unscrewed itself until it almost lost its nut..
So a normal set of trucks, nut on firmly (not half off already) and you shouldn't have any sort of problems like this. Nut half off if you couldn't get the truck loose enough and sure you are going to have issues, just like a guy I know who had to always stop and retighten his kingpin nut as it was only half on the kingpin. Gotta have that nut at least down completely on the kingpin for things to hold as the nyloc is only in the top thread or so, not the rest of it.
Failing that, replace the nut and it should be fine.
If it was an inverted kingpin or some other weird thing, then sure that happens all the time and is fairly common, but I thought we were talking about a normal (not mid) set of forged hollow or whatever trucks.
I have a friend that had this happen as well. Newer set of f/h non cross Indy’s. He was on bones but they kept blowing out so he went with stock bushings and that’s when they started loosing on their own. Went and got new bushings(blue conicals) and new nuts, still happened. He got it fixed last time we skated and pretty sure he said it was bottom or top washer was a little smaller on height so the force would torque when he’d carve and it would have just enough movement/force to turn the nut a hair but over an hour enough to back it off the nylock entirely.
If you have some of the old washers try swapping those on and see how it goes.
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Honestly the biggest problem was also that I had a truck that unscrewed itself until it almost lost its nut..
So a normal set of trucks, nut on firmly (not half off already) and you shouldn't have any sort of problems like this. Nut half off if you couldn't get the truck loose enough and sure you are going to have issues, just like a guy I know who had to always stop and retighten his kingpin nut as it was only half on the kingpin. Gotta have that nut at least down completely on the kingpin for things to hold as the nyloc is only in the top thread or so, not the rest of it.
Failing that, replace the nut and it should be fine.
If it was an inverted kingpin or some other weird thing, then sure that happens all the time and is fairly common, but I thought we were talking about a normal (not mid) set of forged hollow or whatever trucks.
I have a friend that had this happen as well. Newer set of f/h non cross Indy’s. He was on bones but they kept blowing out so he went with stock bushings and that’s when they started loosing on their own. Went and got new bushings(blue conicals) and new nuts, still happened. He got it fixed last time we skated and pretty sure he said it was bottom or top washer was a little smaller on height so the force would torque when he’d carve and it would have just enough movement/force to turn the nut a hair but over an hour enough to back it off the nylock entirely.
If you have some of the old washers try swapping those on and see how it goes.
Amazing something so small can make such a difference hey?!?
I think I should not be amazed, but there is always something that will happen to someone and it just makes you stop and think, or say WHAT?!?!?
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.
Speaking of which, had a friend just have this happen to his Indy ti axle 149s, so yeah it is still happening to stock from post 2020, same break in the axle as per how ever many others who had similar things happen to their trucks.
Not to say all Indy ti axles are going to break, but there are more than enough of these broken ones out there that make me not want to touch any Indy ti axle trucks since the cross was removed from the baseplate.
Others I have which are older hold up fine and no issues.
He only set these up maybe a month ago and this is just not the sort of thing that should be happening to any product.
(https://i.ibb.co/Vp2TZ9F/Indy-ti-axle-again-01.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vp2TZ9F)
(https://i.ibb.co/LpTGXZY/Indy-ti-axle-again-02.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LpTGXZY)
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.
Speaking of which, had a friend just have this happen to his Indy ti axle 149s, so yeah it is still happening to stock from post 2020, same break in the axle as per how ever many others who had similar things happen to their trucks.
Not to say all Indy ti axles are going to break, but there are more than enough of these broken ones out there that make me not want to touch any Indy ti axle trucks since the cross was removed from the baseplate.
Others I have which are older hold up fine and no issues.
He only set these up maybe a month ago and this is just not the sort of thing that should be happening to any product.
(https://i.ibb.co/Vp2TZ9F/Indy-ti-axle-again-01.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vp2TZ9F)
(https://i.ibb.co/LpTGXZY/Indy-ti-axle-again-02.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LpTGXZY)
Oh shit!
Def thought this issue had been taken care of.
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Speaking of which, had a friend just have this happen to his Indy ti axle 149s, so yeah it is still happening to stock from post 2020, same break in the axle as per how ever many others who had similar things happen to their trucks.
Not to say all Indy ti axles are going to break, but there are more than enough of these broken ones out there that make me not want to touch any Indy ti axle trucks since the cross was removed from the baseplate.
Others I have which are older hold up fine and no issues.
He only set these up maybe a month ago and this is just not the sort of thing that should be happening to any product.
(https://i.ibb.co/Vp2TZ9F/Indy-ti-axle-again-01.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vp2TZ9F)
(https://i.ibb.co/LpTGXZY/Indy-ti-axle-again-02.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LpTGXZY)
For $90, hell no they shouldn’t!
Separate issue, but related to product getting worse since moving away from USA:
I’ve looked down the barrel of the axle on the hollows of a local ripper, and his are definitely bent from his gnar landings. Which may have always happened on high impacts, but it’s still lame.
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For $90, hell no they shouldn’t!
Separate issue, but related to product getting worse since moving away from USA:
I’ve looked down the barrel of the axle on the hollows of a local ripper, and his are definitely bent from his gnar landings. Which may have always happened on high impacts, but it’s still lame.
They cost well over $100 here in Australia (more like $160+), but everything is almost double what people pay in terms of a figure here, when compared to USA.
As to Indy being made in China, I think that was more specific to a certain batch of ti axles having issues, how ever many that was from after the cross was removed in 2020, so maybe late 2020 to 2021, whereas Indy has been made in China since 2018 and parts from even further back than that.
Ti axles were in very short supply round pandemic times, so maybe someone somewhere subbed in poor quality materials or whatever - I am not a metal worker or have a whole lot of knowledge in that area, but even older ti axles from trucks all still made in China prior to that work fine with no issues, as far as I know.
As to other things going down hill since going anywhere, from where they were initially made, not just USA to China, I think sometimes things can get better, other times not so much, depending on the fine details.
Others have said before, moving production to China is not the issue, it is the quality of work that a manufacturer puts out, so if you pay for it, you get a very good quality of product / work from China, but if you go the cheap route, then you get the sub par quality product every single time.
I don't know any other details to be able to check, verify or otherwise comment on this, but someone, somewhere definitely made a mess of something with those ti axles and for some, who knows how old the product is that is sitting in skate shops or has been in possession of someone who might be selling sets online or elsewhere.
Re hollow trucks, from looking down the axle, some even from new don't seem to be perfectly straight, having a slight bend towards the deck, one definitely went the other way from another brand I can't recall right now, but most usually are pretty straight when you look at them.
I have an old set from one guy who only skated curbs and flat and they are more bent than almost any other hollow I had seen, without actually grinding through axle or breaking off from use or other, eg being run over. The guy was not heavy, or really anything else to note, but just the sheer pressure slowly made truck axles bend enough that there was no clear vision right through the hollow axle on either, more so on the back though.
You could say that is the nature of skateboarding - use and abuse product, skate and destroy, or whatever else, but everything from back in the day to height of production to current day, things can go both ways, some amazing still after twenty or whatever years, others broken very quickly or just don't hold up to even simple skateboarding.
That is also why warranty of products can be a really good thing, or a pain, depending on who you go through, which shop, which distro, which brand, etc. Some are really good with anything and everything, others leave a lot to be desired, from the local shop right through distributors to the brand itself.
Thankfully most major brands have a really good warranty department, but you always hear sometimes things fall through the cracks.
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For $90, hell no they shouldn’t!
Separate issue, but related to product getting worse since moving away from USA:
I’ve looked down the barrel of the axle on the hollows of a local ripper, and his are definitely bent from his gnar landings. Which may have always happened on high impacts, but it’s still lame.
They cost well over $100 here in Australia (more like $160+), but everything is almost double what people pay in terms of a figure here, when compared to USA.
As to Indy being made in China, I think that was more specific to a certain batch of ti axles having issues, how ever many that was from after the cross was removed in 2020, so maybe late 2020 to 2021, whereas Indy has been made in China since 2018 and parts from even further back than that.
Ti axles were in very short supply round pandemic times, so maybe someone somewhere subbed in poor quality materials or whatever - I am not a metal worker or have a whole lot of knowledge in that area, but even older ti axles from trucks all still made in China prior to that work fine with no issues, as far as I know.
As to other things going down hill since going anywhere, from where they were initially made, not just USA to China, I think sometimes things can get better, other times not so much, depending on the fine details.
Others have said before, moving production to China is not the issue, it is the quality of work that a manufacturer puts out, so if you pay for it, you get a very good quality of product / work from China, but if you go the cheap route, then you get the sub par quality product every single time.
I don't know any other details to be able to check, verify or otherwise comment on this, but someone, somewhere definitely made a mess of something with those ti axles and for some, who knows how old the product is that is sitting in skate shops or has been in possession of someone who might be selling sets online or elsewhere.
Re hollow trucks, from looking down the axle, some even from new don't seem to be perfectly straight, having a slight bend towards the deck, one definitely went the other way from another brand I can't recall right now, but most usually are pretty straight when you look at them.
I have an old set from one guy who only skated curbs and flat and they are more bent than almost any other hollow I had seen, without actually grinding through axle or breaking off from use or other, eg being run over. The guy was not heavy, or really anything else to note, but just the sheer pressure slowly made truck axles bend enough that there was no clear vision right through the hollow axle on either, more so on the back though.
You could say that is the nature of skateboarding - use and abuse product, skate and destroy, or whatever else, but everything from back in the day to height of production to current day, things can go both ways, some amazing still after twenty or whatever years, others broken very quickly or just don't hold up to even simple skateboarding.
That is also why warranty of products can be a really good thing, or a pain, depending on who you go through, which shop, which distro, which brand, etc. Some are really good with anything and everything, others leave a lot to be desired, from the local shop right through distributors to the brand itself.
Thankfully most major brands have a really good warranty department, but you always hear sometimes things fall through the cracks.
Thanks Brinson. Always enjoy your knowledge posts.
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Speaking of which, had a friend just have this happen to his Indy ti axle 149s, so yeah it is still happening to stock from post 2020, same break in the axle as per how ever many others who had similar things happen to their trucks.
Not to say all Indy ti axles are going to break, but there are more than enough of these broken ones out there that make me not want to touch any Indy ti axle trucks since the cross was removed from the baseplate.
Others I have which are older hold up fine and no issues.
He only set these up maybe a month ago and this is just not the sort of thing that should be happening to any product.
(https://i.ibb.co/Vp2TZ9F/Indy-ti-axle-again-01.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Vp2TZ9F)
(https://i.ibb.co/LpTGXZY/Indy-ti-axle-again-02.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LpTGXZY)
Yeesh, with the price tag and the potential of getting older stock and losing your axle, TI Indy’s really don’t seem worth it.
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The more I skate Indy Titaniums with Indy blue 92s, the more I love skateboarding on top of the endless love I already have for it.
What size trucks?
144s, currently on a DLX 8.25 which is more like an 8.38.
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Has anyone thrown some stage IV hangars on some forged plates and rode it? I just setup with Krux bushings and geo seems good, bottom bushings are same height, krux top is a bit smaller. Much lighter and better kp clearance too.
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Has anyone thrown some stage IV hangars on some forged plates and rode it? I just setup with Krux bushings and geo seems good, bottom bushings are same height, krux top is a bit smaller. Much lighter and better kp clearance too.
Maurio McCoy.
https://youtu.be/R7oefdpS4OA?t=74
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Has anyone thrown some stage IV hangars on some forged plates and rode it? I just setup with Krux bushings and geo seems good, bottom bushings are same height, krux top is a bit smaller. Much lighter and better kp clearance too.
Maurio McCoy.
https://youtu.be/R7oefdpS4OA?t=74
when i watched this….i wanted too do it
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Has anyone thrown some stage IV hangars on some forged plates and rode it? I just setup with Krux bushings and geo seems good, bottom bushings are same height, krux top is a bit smaller. Much lighter and better kp clearance too.
Maurio McCoy.
https://youtu.be/R7oefdpS4OA?t=74
when i watched this….i wanted too do it
It clearly works [for him] and it does create the 'lite' version of an indy they don't have (hollow pin/solid axle) and 53.5mm...
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FWIW I'm pretty sure that Titanium Indys hangers have always been made in China; this was one of the first things they ever produced there.
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FWIW I'm pretty sure that Titanium Indys hangers have always been made in China; this was one of the first things they ever produced there.
everyone seems to get their titanium trucks built there, no?
doesn’t seem like it’s working very wel, least of all for indy.
one of the biggest drawbacks, for me and my attempts at indy LTR, was the weight. i thought. haven’t skated them much in recent times, miss the grind, and to borrow from b.degros, how ‘butch’ they made me feel.
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FWIW I'm pretty sure that Titanium Indys hangers have always been made in China; this was one of the first things they ever produced there.
everyone seems to get their titanium trucks built there, no?
doesn’t seem like it’s working very wel, least of all for indy.
one of the biggest drawbacks, for me and my attempts at indy LTR, was the weight. i thought. haven’t skated them much in recent times, miss the grind, and to borrow from b.degros, how ‘butch’ they made me feel.
Yeah, my guess is that the US forge (which Indy, Venture and Thunder were all using, right?) has ever been setup for titanium axles. I don't know the first thing about forging, but I suppose it's not as simple as swapping in a titanium axle in place of chromoly.
The weight difference between titanium and hollow is so minor that I don't know how anyone could justify the price difference, especially given the propensity for titanium to snap, where chromoly would merely bend.
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FWIW I'm pretty sure that Titanium Indys hangers have always been made in China; this was one of the first things they ever produced there.
everyone seems to get their titanium trucks built there, no?
doesn’t seem like it’s working very wel, least of all for indy.
one of the biggest drawbacks, for me and my attempts at indy LTR, was the weight. i thought. haven’t skated them much in recent times, miss the grind, and to borrow from b.degros, how ‘butch’ they made me feel.
Yeah, my guess is that the US forge (which Indy, Venture and Thunder were all using, right?) has ever been setup for titanium axles. I don't know the first thing about forging, but I suppose it's not as simple as swapping in a titanium axle in place of chromoly.
The weight difference between titanium and hollow is so minor that I don't know how anyone could justify the price difference, especially given the propensity for titanium to snap, where chromoly would merely bend.
yeah the ti premium didn’t make sense over the hollows.
i skated 169 hollows, after hefting in hand, someone’s setup with 169 ti’s, and noticing how dang light it felt picking it up.
the 169 hollows were not the revelation i was looking for. i think that size is just too extreme for me.
aaaaaaanyways, hollows seem like the move for those that are concerned.
i am sort of surprised that indy doesn’t offer the ‘lite’ version (regular hanger, forged baseplate w/hollow kingpin). i prefer my lite versions of thunder/venture, to the hollow lite versions. something something something about the way the board sounds/feels/vibrates, when rolling on the street/doing crap frontside 50/50s on chunky curbs and ledges.
i continue to lurk, and post in this indy thread, despite not riding them in years. i’m still hurt i wasn’t able to make the size up to 149s when all the cool kids were doing that. and i really really liked skating 159s. for a week. but that week was the shit.
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Been of indy for 2 yrs or so (maybe a day or 2 dipping back), mostly riding Royals, but dipping Ventures /slappy trucks.
Setup 149ti/blue 92s at first, then quickly moved to bones hards, and I was not disappointed.
Coming off Venture 5.8 cast hollow (same weight / height give or take) the difference in grind[ing curbs] cannot be understated...indys just barge through chunky shit, whereas ventures need extra speed/wax/weight focus to get them performing similarly (royals land between the two); pinch/pop adjustments were total manageable (32" flat kicked board / 14.25" WB)
At 193lbs, the stability of the stock ventures was missing (stock were to loose tho), and with very broken in 96a bones/conical bushings the indys are very nimble/a tad more squirrly than I want; going to split the difference and setup black 94a aftermarkets bottoms and leave the bones top, just a hair softer than the bones but more stable with the bottom barrel.
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So is the general consensus to avoid the Ti Indys at the moment, as it's a lottery whether you get a dodgy set? I am sizing down my whole set-up and was looking at Ti's or some Royals. I ran hard bushings in my last set of Indys (Wink 159s) and know the Royal bushings will be too soft.
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Lottery indeed
it could be annoying when it happens but if your Ti axle breaks, you'll get replacement trucks with ease
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Lottery indeed
it could be annoying when it happens but if your Ti axle breaks, you'll get replacement trucks with ease
Yes indeed!
NHS are already sorting out replacements for those ones I posted a pic of, all through the local distro, but at least they are getting it done, no trouble at all.
Generally though, from the thousands or how ever many were made, I still thing it is a very low percentage of trucks that have broken, so for some people having a panic attack about their ti axle Indy trucks, I don't think it is that much to worry about.
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Lottery indeed
it could be annoying when it happens but if your Ti axle breaks, you'll get replacement trucks with ease
Yes indeed!
NHS are already sorting out replacements for those ones I posted a pic of, all through the local distro, but at least they are getting it done, no trouble at all.
Generally though, from the thousands or how ever many were made, I still thing it is a very low percentage of trucks that have broken, so for some people having a panic attack about their ti axle Indy trucks, I don't think it is that much to worry about.
I wouldn't worry, places like Slap tend to significantly amplify issues like these. I've been on a pair of Titanium 144s for over a year now, and they are among the best trucks I've ever skated. No issues whatsoever.
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Lottery indeed
it could be annoying when it happens but if your Ti axle breaks, you'll get replacement trucks with ease
Yes indeed!
NHS are already sorting out replacements for those ones I posted a pic of, all through the local distro, but at least they are getting it done, no trouble at all.
Generally though, from the thousands or how ever many were made, I still thing it is a very low percentage of trucks that have broken, so for some people having a panic attack about their ti axle Indy trucks, I don't think it is that much to worry about.
I wouldn't worry, places like Slap tend to significantly amplify issues like these. I've been on a pair of Titanium 144s for over a year now, and they are among the best trucks I've ever skated. No issues whatsoever.
I have a set of the recent 139's and 144's and so far they've been fine. I figure if they can hold up to my 180lb ass doing drops they should be safe to keep riding. Funnily enough, I keep going back to skating standard 149's on my April 8.5 deck. Even though they make flip tricks a little harder, there's just something about standards that feel so comfy and right. Maybe it's like Ben Degros said, they make me feel super butch and manly lol
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I wouldn't worry, places like Slap tend to significantly amplify issues like these.
So true, a handful of incidents and it's time to cancel the brand. It's also cool to shit on NHS and Indy trucks these days.
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I wouldn't worry, places like Slap tend to significantly amplify issues like these.
So true, a handful of incidents and it's time to cancel the brand. It's also cool to shit on NHS and Indy trucks these days.
well nhs has made it easy to want to shit on them: bogus pandemic attitudes towards shops, weird sellout vibes mixed with the harsh bro marketing, lots of old skate adjacent iron cross lovers (shit used to be a joke).
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Sometimes I'll just search 'skateboard' on ebay and scroll thru to see if anything interesting pops up. Usually people just selling random stuff. A board (specifically the trucks) caught my eye. Zoomed in on the pics and knew the Indys were early stage. When it arrived I immediately took off the trucks and was very happy to find out they were Stage I. The only stage with kingpins sealed in the baseplates. Gave them a good cleaning and threw in some new 'Original' bushings. Going to set them up and see how they feel....
(https://i.imgur.com/8kfMi5Fl.jpg)
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Sometimes I'll just search 'skateboard' on ebay and scroll thru to see if anything interesting pops up. Usually people just selling random stuff. A board (specifically the trucks) caught my eye. Zoomed in on the pics and knew the Indys were early stage. When it arrived I immediately took off the trucks and was very happy to find out they were Stage I. The only stage with kingpins sealed in the baseplates. Gave them a good cleaning and threw in some new 'Original' bushings. Going to set them up and see how they feel....
(https://i.imgur.com/8kfMi5Fl.jpg)
Damn
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I wouldn't worry, places like Slap tend to significantly amplify issues like these.
So true, a handful of incidents and it's time to cancel the brand. It's also cool to shit on NHS and Indy trucks these days.
I do find it funny, especially in their instagram comments, so many people going off one end or the other.
Really, what I like most is how the trucks feel when I skate them, regardless of where they were made, or the company behind the brand, or the logo, or the history, but the funny thing is all that is what makes the brand so interesting as well.
Sure there can be some questionable decisions at times, throughout the life or timeline of any brand that has been around more than a few years, but some stand the test of time and everything else, more so than the "what's hot" or "who's cool" or anything like that.
In saying that, I am happy to stick with Stage 11 standards, no matter where they are made, mainly because they just work for what I want, have fewer issues than the others, with everything else having more dramas, especially mids, ti axles, or even forged baseplates / hollow kingpins in general, from all the time I have spent fixing or helping people with their truck problems.
I don't doubt others have their favourites, Indy variations or other brands and that is quite ok too, but when there are known issues with some types, or batches or whatever, I tend to try to stay away from those and focus on the trucks that I will have the least issues with, but that's just me.
Guessing there are often a lot of negative comments and posts more recently about certain things to do with Indy, NHS or where things are made, but I can't see myself changing any time soon, if ever, for any other brand of truck and bushing.
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Speaking of the Indy logo...what are best responses to people complaining about logo switch? Here are a few good ones I've seen:
"I love watching people throw a tantrum that they are no longer a relevant marketing demographic, while usually claiming to be a part of a “punk” culture that has rejected all that.”
"It’s ok to be a relic from dying generation/demographic. Yell at the clouds while you still have time."
“Just like deck & wheel graphics, the logo on the trucks is the most important factor in the product's performance. Independent trucks don't grind or turn as well without the old logo. If you want to grind faster, you must etch the cross into the baseplate yourself. That will also alert everyone who sees it of your status as a real core skateboarder & not a PC poser in any way.”
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Sometimes I'll just search 'skateboard' on ebay and scroll thru to see if anything interesting pops up. Usually people just selling random stuff. A board (specifically the trucks) caught my eye. Zoomed in on the pics and knew the Indys were early stage. When it arrived I immediately took off the trucks and was very happy to find out they were Stage I. The only stage with kingpins sealed in the baseplates. Gave them a good cleaning and threw in some new 'Original' bushings. Going to set them up and see how they feel....
(https://i.imgur.com/8kfMi5Fl.jpg)
!! Nice find!
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Sometimes I'll just search 'skateboard' on ebay and scroll thru to see if anything interesting pops up. Usually people just selling random stuff. A board (specifically the trucks) caught my eye. Zoomed in on the pics and knew the Indys were early stage. When it arrived I immediately took off the trucks and was very happy to find out they were Stage I. The only stage with kingpins sealed in the baseplates. Gave them a good cleaning and threw in some new 'Original' bushings. Going to set them up and see how they feel....
(https://i.imgur.com/8kfMi5Fl.jpg)
Sick! Nice score. I have some Stage 2s 131s that my friend scored from a yard sale complete (he paid $10 and I talked him out them) I did put them on a board to see how they felt and I have to admit, I really didn't like the turn. It was way too unstable on center. I feel like this is where Ace really figured things out.
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Speaking of the Indy logo...what are best responses to people complaining about logo switch? Here are a few good ones I've seen:
"I love watching people throw a tantrum that they are no longer a relevant marketing demographic, while usually claiming to be a part of a “punk” culture that has rejected all that.”
"It’s ok to be a relic from dying generation/demographic. Yell at the clouds while you still have time."
“Just like deck & wheel graphics, the logo on the trucks is the most important factor in the product's performance. Independent trucks don't grind or turn as well without the old logo. If you want to grind faster, you must etch the cross into the baseplate yourself. That will also alert everyone who sees it of your status as a real core skateboarder & not a PC poser in any way.”
“Independent trucks lost their blessing by the Pope when they removed his cross. They turn like shit now, the axles break, and they make bad noises.”
Add that to the list, too.
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Speaking of the Indy logo...what are best responses to people complaining about logo switch? Here are a few good ones I've seen:
"I love watching people throw a tantrum that they are no longer a relevant marketing demographic, while usually claiming to be a part of a “punk” culture that has rejected all that.”
"It’s ok to be a relic from dying generation/demographic. Yell at the clouds while you still have time."
“Just like deck & wheel graphics, the logo on the trucks is the most important factor in the product's performance. Independent trucks don't grind or turn as well without the old logo. If you want to grind faster, you must etch the cross into the baseplate yourself. That will also alert everyone who sees it of your status as a real core skateboarder & not a PC poser in any way.”
Add that to the list, too.
It is pretty funny that the justification Indy used to use was "Well, it's ok with the pope." Cool guys, nothing questionable whatsoever about the Catholic Church nor Pope John Paul II. Certainly no suspect connections between Nazism there, please don't look any further into this issue.
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In other news unrelated to the cross disappearing: these damn 144 hollows have a small nub going into the pivot cup and it wiggles around freely making it sit to one side or the other making the board not go straight.
Driving me nuts…. I need to look back through the thread and see what that suggestion was for replacement cups :-\
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Speaking of the Indy logo...what are best responses to people complaining about logo switch? Here are a few good ones I've seen:
"I love watching people throw a tantrum that they are no longer a relevant marketing demographic, while usually claiming to be a part of a “punk” culture that has rejected all that.”
"It’s ok to be a relic from dying generation/demographic. Yell at the clouds while you still have time."
“Just like deck & wheel graphics, the logo on the trucks is the most important factor in the product's performance. Independent trucks don't grind or turn as well without the old logo. If you want to grind faster, you must etch the cross into the baseplate yourself. That will also alert everyone who sees it of your status as a real core skateboarder & not a PC poser in any way.”
Add that to the list, too.
It is pretty funny that the justification Indy used to use was "Well, it's ok with the pope." Cool guys, nothing questionable whatsoever about the Catholic Church nor Pope John Paul II. Certainly no suspect connections between Nazism there, please don't look any further into this issue.
It's a bit long winded, but this is one I actually penned on facebook awhile back.
“Dear Concerned Skater:
Thank you for contacting Skateboarding Customer Support. Your moral outrage at [insert problem here] “new logo” has been duly noted. Here at Skateboarding Customer Support we take these matters very seriously.
Your complaint has been forwarded to a senior Compliance Ambassador, who sits on the Central Committee for Skateboarding Adherence and Conformity. In serious matters such as this, the Adherence and Conformity Committee usually issues a strongly worded mandate demanding the general population to [insert opposite of problem here] “not new logo.” Soon you can expect all skateboarders and/or manufacturers to change their offensive behavior to better fit your liking. We agree that everyone should conduct their lives according to your standards.
In the future, we sincerely hope your life to be free of any further [insert problem here] “new logo” problems. We further hope that other's [insert problem here] “new logo” has not significantly impacted your ability to ride your own skateboard.
We thank you for your relevant, considered, and expert opinions on these very important matters. Have a nice day.”
-The Central Committee for Skateboarding Adherence and Conformity
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In other news unrelated to the cross disappearing: these damn 144 hollows have a small nub going into the pivot cup and it wiggles around freely making it sit to one side or the other making the board not go straight.
Driving me nuts…. I need to look back through the thread and see what that suggestion was for replacement cups :-\
Yeah the newer trucks in all styles, but it seemed especially the hollow / ti axled trucks have smaller pivot nubs so they tend to bounce around in there, which sometimes make them sound like they have a blown out pivot cup. Even the stock pivot cups themselves seem thinner and harder material which leads to more movement and noise.
I have tried a few different brands of pivot cup, some work better than others, but one in particular is a bit thicker, so it fits better in the newer Indy trucks.
Too bad I don't recall the brand (or generic I think) or where exactly I got them to be able to pass on info to others, but I got about a hundred, maybe through ebay or somewhere else, not associated with a normal skate brand.
Other people back in the day used to put shoe goo in there, let it almost set and then put the truck hanger gently back on, but I don't know how well that works.
Putting tape round the hanger nub only works for a session or two before it comes out, but even that was better than the movement it had before.
A very small thing that can cause more annoyance than anything else.
@Sedition That is pretty funny / good - always enjoy your humour and posts like that, even if I don't often comment on them directly.
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In other news unrelated to the cross disappearing: these damn 144 hollows have a small nub going into the pivot cup and it wiggles around freely making it sit to one side or the other making the board not go straight.
Driving me nuts…. I need to look back through the thread and see what that suggestion was for replacement cups :-\
Yeah the newer trucks in all styles, but it seemed especially the hollow / ti axled trucks have smaller pivot nubs so they tend to bounce around in there, which sometimes make them sound like they have a blown out pivot cup. Even the stock pivot cups themselves seem thinner and harder material which leads to more movement and noise.
I have tried a few different brands of pivot cup, some work better than others, but one in particular is a bit thicker, so it fits better in the newer Indy trucks.
Too bad I don't recall the brand (or generic I think) or where exactly I got them to be able to pass on info to others, but I got about a hundred, maybe through ebay or somewhere else, not associated with a normal skate brand.
Other people back in the day used to put shoe goo in there, let it almost set and then put the truck hanger gently back on, but I don't know how well that works.
Putting tape round the hanger nub only works for a session or two before it comes out, but even that was better than the movement it had before.
A very small thing that can cause more annoyance than anything else.
@Sedition That is pretty funny / good - always enjoy your humour and posts like that, even if I don't often comment on them directly.
Thanks, my money is on that you would be the one to know. So if you don’t, I’ll just have to bring a mm tape measurer to any shop willing to let me be a weirdo measuring the diameter of the pivot cup opening. 8)
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(https://i.imgur.com/tzwrP2J.jpeg)
was gifted these 149s a while back and never really got to using em after trying aces. swapped the polished baseplates for these matte black ones that were on a set of 144s.
never liked the polished baseplate and polished hanger combo. shit looks too much. sorta like when ur shoes are entirely one specific color or when ur clothes match ur skintone
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Speaking of the Indy logo...what are best responses to people complaining about logo switch? Here are a few good ones I've seen:
"I love watching people throw a tantrum that they are no longer a relevant marketing demographic, while usually claiming to be a part of a “punk” culture that has rejected all that.”
"It’s ok to be a relic from dying generation/demographic. Yell at the clouds while you still have time."
“Just like deck & wheel graphics, the logo on the trucks is the most important factor in the product's performance. Independent trucks don't grind or turn as well without the old logo. If you want to grind faster, you must etch the cross into the baseplate yourself. That will also alert everyone who sees it of your status as a real core skateboarder & not a PC poser in any way.”
Add that to the list, too.
It is pretty funny that the justification Indy used to use was "Well, it's ok with the pope." Cool guys, nothing questionable whatsoever about the Catholic Church nor Pope John Paul II. Certainly no suspect connections between Nazism there, please don't look any further into this issue.
It's a bit long winded, but this is one I actually penned on facebook awhile back.
“Dear Concerned Skater:
Thank you for contacting Skateboarding Customer Support. Your moral outrage at [insert problem here] “new logo” has been duly noted. Here at Skateboarding Customer Support we take these matters very seriously.
Your complaint has been forwarded to a senior Compliance Ambassador, who sits on the Central Committee for Skateboarding Adherence and Conformity. In serious matters such as this, the Adherence and Conformity Committee usually issues a strongly worded mandate demanding the general population to [insert opposite of problem here] “not new logo.” Soon you can expect all skateboarders and/or manufacturers to change their offensive behavior to better fit your liking. We agree that everyone should conduct their lives according to your standards.
In the future, we sincerely hope your life to be free of any further [insert problem here] “new logo” problems. We further hope that other's [insert problem here] “new logo” has not significantly impacted your ability to ride your own skateboard.
We thank you for your relevant, considered, and expert opinions on these very important matters. Have a nice day.”
-The Central Committee for Skateboarding Adherence and Conformity
lol
I wish I was there for that convo when the cross was removed. I guess I could always go back in the vaults to read in Slap.
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@mbrimson88 you were correct, my top washers were making the “snapping” sound. I replaced them with some washers I had in my spare parts box, pretty sure they came with some krux bushings I had many moons ago. Thank you for your knowledge good sir!
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In other news unrelated to the cross disappearing: these damn 144 hollows have a small nub going into the pivot cup and it wiggles around freely making it sit to one side or the other making the board not go straight.
Driving me nuts…. I need to look back through the thread and see what that suggestion was for replacement cups :-\
Yeah the newer trucks in all styles, but it seemed especially the hollow / ti axled trucks have smaller pivot nubs so they tend to bounce around in there, which sometimes make them sound like they have a blown out pivot cup. Even the stock pivot cups themselves seem thinner and harder material which leads to more movement and noise.
I have tried a few different brands of pivot cup, some work better than others, but one in particular is a bit thicker, so it fits better in the newer Indy trucks.
Too bad I don't recall the brand (or generic I think) or where exactly I got them to be able to pass on info to others, but I got about a hundred, maybe through ebay or somewhere else, not associated with a normal skate brand.
Other people back in the day used to put shoe goo in there, let it almost set and then put the truck hanger gently back on, but I don't know how well that works.
Putting tape round the hanger nub only works for a session or two before it comes out, but even that was better than the movement it had before.
A very small thing that can cause more annoyance than anything else.
@Sedition That is pretty funny / good - always enjoy your humour and posts like that, even if I don't often comment on them directly.
Thank you for the kind words.
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The hard Ace bottom/hard Indy top bushing combo is crazy. Seriously, I'm 247lbs and haven't gotten wheel bite since making this change. I could ride these 159s until the end of time. I keep being tempted by Ventures, but it seems silly to switch when my current setup is damn near flawless. Need to find something else in my life to tinker with lol
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(https://i.imgur.com/tzwrP2J.jpeg)
was gifted these 149s a while back and never really got to using em after trying aces. swapped the polished baseplates for these matte black ones that were on a set of 144s.
never liked the polished baseplate and polished hanger combo. shit looks too much. sorta like when ur shoes are entirely one specific color or when ur clothes match ur skintone
but now the baseplate doesn’t say supreme L
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In other news unrelated to the cross disappearing: these damn 144 hollows have a small nub going into the pivot cup and it wiggles around freely making it sit to one side or the other making the board not go straight.
Driving me nuts…. I need to look back through the thread and see what that suggestion was for replacement cups :-\
I have a set of the newer 144 Titaniums that do that too. But my set of older 149 Titaniums with the cross logo don't wiggle like that at all. Wondering if something changed with the manufacturing tolerances? This and the Ti axle breakage thing bums me out because I've skated Indy's since Stage VII :(
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In other news unrelated to the cross disappearing: these damn 144 hollows have a small nub going into the pivot cup and it wiggles around freely making it sit to one side or the other making the board not go straight.
Driving me nuts…. I need to look back through the thread and see what that suggestion was for replacement cups :-\
I have a set of the newer 144 Titaniums that do that too. But my set of older 149 Titaniums with the cross logo don't wiggle like that at all. Wondering if something changed with the manufacturing tolerances? This and the Ti axle breakage thing bums me out because I've skated Indy's since Stage VII :(
Me too! (Though wiki says stage 8 came out around when I first started so I’m not sure now)
It’s almost as if NHS decided that to save money on the material they allowed for smaller nubs.
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In other news unrelated to the cross disappearing: these damn 144 hollows have a small nub going into the pivot cup and it wiggles around freely making it sit to one side or the other making the board not go straight.
Driving me nuts…. I need to look back through the thread and see what that suggestion was for replacement cups :-\
I have a set of the newer 144 Titaniums that do that too. But my set of older 149 Titaniums with the cross logo don't wiggle like that at all. Wondering if something changed with the manufacturing tolerances? This and the Ti axle breakage thing bums me out because I've skated Indy's since Stage VII :(
It’s almost as if NHS decided that to save money on the material they allowed for smaller nubs.
I think you both have it right - older trucks pre cross did seem to fit better / not wiggle around, but finding a decent and solid pair of pivot cups is the main thing - not a crazy huge deal, but not finding some decent pivot cups really sucks.
Newer ones just aren't the same, be it the pivot nubs are smaller, or the pivot cups are different material and maybe thinner, or both and more, they have changed, but they still work - just frustrating that somewhere around 2020 when things went weird, then anything since then has been a different truck in very slight ways.
The stock orange bushings are a whole lot better though, at least for people who ride the stock bushings, so that was something good that seemed to happen some time in the last few years, maybe before 2020, when things moved to China around 2018, it seemed.
A short but kind of funny read, if you dare:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Independent_Truck_Company
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In other news unrelated to the cross disappearing: these damn 144 hollows have a small nub going into the pivot cup and it wiggles around freely making it sit to one side or the other making the board not go straight.
Driving me nuts…. I need to look back through the thread and see what that suggestion was for replacement cups :-\
I have a set of the newer 144 Titaniums that do that too. But my set of older 149 Titaniums with the cross logo don't wiggle like that at all. Wondering if something changed with the manufacturing tolerances? This and the Ti axle breakage thing bums me out because I've skated Indy's since Stage VII :(
It’s almost as if NHS decided that to save money on the material they allowed for smaller nubs.
I think you both have it right - older trucks pre cross did seem to fit better / not wiggle around, but finding a decent and solid pair of pivot cups is the main thing - not a crazy huge deal, but not finding some decent pivot cups really sucks.
Newer ones just aren't the same, be it the pivot nubs are smaller, or the pivot cups are different material and maybe thinner, or both and more, they have changed, but they still work - just frustrating that somewhere around 2020 when things went weird, then anything since then has been a different truck in very slight ways.
The stock orange bushings are a whole lot better though, at least for people who ride the stock bushings, so that was something good that seemed to happen some time in the last few years, maybe before 2020, when things moved to China around 2018, it seemed.
A short but kind of funny read, if you dare:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Independent_Truck_Company
Dang! I was hoping for a more juicy story than:
“ In 2021, after many vocalized opinions that the cross was indeed too "Nazi-like", the main logo was changed and they now only occasionally use the iron cross logo.”
Time do some Slap digging for some casual reading ;D
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Dang! I was hoping for a more juicy story than:
“ In 2021, after many vocalized opinions that the cross was indeed too "Nazi-like", the main logo was changed and they now only occasionally use the iron cross logo.”
Time do some Slap digging for some casual reading ;D
Wiki can be a whole lot of fun sometimes, but that information overall is pretty light.
I did have a chuckle with that line you quoted, given that when they changed the logo, they have completely removed all notion of the cross from everything now, replaced by the diamond logo or the hanger wings / loose truck animation logo, or whatever else.
I think if you want controversy and crazy, just check the Indy instagram account, cause there is always someone commenting for and against on there, or at least there was last time I checked. Really can't believe there are still people who are arguing about it after all this time, but hey it is the internet and people don't like to move on.
https://www.instagram.com/independenttrucks/
I didn't have to look very far. Yeah they are still at it.
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lol. Yup. Post nine minutes ago.
(https://i.ibb.co/prY9FVM/IMG-3443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/prY9FVM)
Amazing. Every product post has comments on it ;D
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so many turds love the cross.
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Just the independent word by itself with no icon/logo looks lame.
I do like that they’re introducing the diamond more often. If I was running the company I’d go 100% on putting that diamond everywhere you used to see the cross: beside the Independent name on soft goods, and on truck baseplate ESPECIALLY.
I don’t care about the politics of it all, I wouldn’t want to be in Indy’s position of being accused of Naxi-ism, for sure. They did what they had to do. No big deal.
My beef was that the logo sucked without some icon… so diamond all the way. Do it, NHS.
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lol. Yup. Post nine minutes ago.
(https://i.ibb.co/prY9FVM/IMG-3443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/prY9FVM)
Amazing. Every product post has comments on it ;D
They come crawling out of the woodwork for every post.
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People should get over the cross. It's just a fucking cross.
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Just got a new pair of stage 11… before skating them I swapped out stock bushings for aftermarket orange conicals. Why is my front truck sticking to one side and not rebounding to the middle.
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Just got a new pair of stage 11… before skating them I swapped out stock bushings for aftermarket orange conicals. Why is my front truck sticking to one side and not rebounding to the middle.
Indy bushings are notorious for this, memes have been made.
You don't notice it while skating do you? I assume its just when your board shoots away from you in a giant arc?
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Just got a new pair of stage 11… before skating them I swapped out stock bushings for aftermarket orange conicals. Why is my front truck sticking to one side and not rebounding to the middle.
Indy bushings are notorious for this, memes have been made.
You don't notice it while skating do you? I assume its just when your board shoots away from you in a giant arc?
Yes, precisely
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Just got a new pair of stage 11… before skating them I swapped out stock bushings for aftermarket orange conicals. Why is my front truck sticking to one side and not rebounding to the middle.
Indy bushings are notorious for this, memes have been made.
You don't notice it while skating do you? I assume its just when your board shoots away from you in a giant arc?
Yes, precisely
Yea, this always happens with indy bushings and is usually more drastic the newer they are.
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Just got a new pair of stage 11… before skating them I swapped out stock bushings for aftermarket orange conicals. Why is my front truck sticking to one side and not rebounding to the middle.
Indy bushings are notorious for this, memes have been made.
You don't notice it while skating do you? I assume its just when your board shoots away from you in a giant arc?
Yes, precisely
Yea, this always happens with indy bushings and is usually more drastic the newer they are.
The simple answer is this: Because any bushings need to break in / wear in, some way more than others.
Stock bushings actually work really well in Indy trucks now, as do the aftermarket bushings, but both need some wear in time. If you just put them in, crank them down and skate as per usual, of course they are going to do funny things depending on how you landed last, eg land heel side, it will turn off to that side.
Once the bushings wear in, which is usually only a session or two for me for both Indy stock or aftermarket bushings, they rebound really well and don't give me any issues whatsoever. Other people who have tried the bushings from me are often surprised how well they work, but it is all about that break in time.
They have usually put brand new bushings in or run stock everything and messed up the bushings by skating them hard right from go often don't understand and I have a number of split / squashed / cut up / crumbling bushings that are still almost new, from people who didn't wear them in gently.
For me, I have a mini ramp session or two, but more than anything just rolling around not landing heavily heel or toe and leaning gently left and right, left and right, even on a flat carpark or something and I can feel when they start to come good by holding the board and pushing the truck hanger / wheel down on one side and it bounces back instantly, whereas from new, they will often not do that and stay to one side.
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More data:
The machined hole in the baseplates of standard cross era (CE) and post-cross era (PCE)
They are the same measurements just about as damned close as you can without professional gear.
To reiterate early findings: the newer pivot cup is a hard plastic, while the old one is more flexible.
I’ll need to measure the hangar nub next, but my hypothesis is that Mbrin is right and the nub (pivot point) is smaller, leading to more side to side movement causing the cracking.
(https://i.ibb.co/FxShkm7/IMG-3642.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FxShkm7)
(https://i.ibb.co/DgwnStc/IMG-3645.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DgwnStc)
(https://i.ibb.co/YL357x3/IMG-3650.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YL357x3)
(https://i.ibb.co/2N4qzkt/IMG-3651.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2N4qzkt)
(https://i.ibb.co/bFhC7x0/IMG-3655.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bFhC7x0)
(https://i.ibb.co/CnZpkY3/IMG-3657.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CnZpkY3)
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Speaking of the Indy logo...what are best responses to people complaining about logo switch? Here are a few good ones I've seen:
"I love watching people throw a tantrum that they are no longer a relevant marketing demographic, while usually claiming to be a part of a “punk” culture that has rejected all that.”
"It’s ok to be a relic from dying generation/demographic. Yell at the clouds while you still have time."
“Just like deck & wheel graphics, the logo on the trucks is the most important factor in the product's performance. Independent trucks don't grind or turn as well without the old logo. If you want to grind faster, you must etch the cross into the baseplate yourself. That will also alert everyone who sees it of your status as a real core skateboarder & not a PC poser in any way.”
Add that to the list, too.
It is pretty funny that the justification Indy used to use was "Well, it's ok with the pope." Cool guys, nothing questionable whatsoever about the Catholic Church nor Pope John Paul II. Certainly no suspect connections between Nazism there, please don't look any further into this issue.
It's a bit long winded, but this is one I actually penned on facebook awhile back.
“Dear Concerned Skater:
Thank you for contacting Skateboarding Customer Support. Your moral outrage at [insert problem here] “new logo” has been duly noted. Here at Skateboarding Customer Support we take these matters very seriously.
Your complaint has been forwarded to a senior Compliance Ambassador, who sits on the Central Committee for Skateboarding Adherence and Conformity. In serious matters such as this, the Adherence and Conformity Committee usually issues a strongly worded mandate demanding the general population to [insert opposite of problem here] “not new logo.” Soon you can expect all skateboarders and/or manufacturers to change their offensive behavior to better fit your liking. We agree that everyone should conduct their lives according to your standards.
In the future, we sincerely hope your life to be free of any further [insert problem here] “new logo” problems. We further hope that other's [insert problem here] “new logo” has not significantly impacted your ability to ride your own skateboard.
We thank you for your relevant, considered, and expert opinions on these very important matters. Have a nice day.”
-The Central Committee for Skateboarding Adherence and Conformity
@Sedition this is amazing. Would you mind if I used it to respond to some bring back the crossers on fbook marketplace? It’s odd that they’re so riled up about the logo change and almost none of them actually ride a skateboard anymore. It’s crazy how much their identity is wrapped up in a company’s logo.
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Just got a new pair of stage 11… before skating them I swapped out stock bushings for aftermarket orange conicals. Why is my front truck sticking to one side and not rebounding to the middle.
Indy bushings are notorious for this, memes have been made.
You don't notice it while skating do you? I assume its just when your board shoots away from you in a giant arc?
Yes, precisely
Yea, this always happens with indy bushings and is usually more drastic the newer they are.
The simple answer is this: Because any bushings need to break in / wear in, some way more than others.
Stock bushings actually work really well in Indy trucks now, as do the aftermarket bushings, but both need some wear in time. If you just put them in, crank them down and skate as per usual, of course they are going to do funny things depending on how you landed last, eg land heel side, it will turn off to that side.
Once the bushings wear in, which is usually only a session or two for me for both Indy stock or aftermarket bushings, they rebound really well and don't give me any issues whatsoever. Other people who have tried the bushings from me are often surprised how well they work, but it is all about that break in time.
They have usually put brand new bushings in or run stock everything and messed up the bushings by skating them hard right from go often don't understand and I have a number of split / squashed / cut up / crumbling bushings that are still almost new, from people who didn't wear them in gently.
For me, I have a mini ramp session or two, but more than anything just rolling around not landing heavily heel or toe and leaning gently left and right, left and right, even on a flat carpark or something and I can feel when they start to come good by holding the board and pushing the truck hanger / wheel down on one side and it bounces back instantly, whereas from new, they will often not do that and stay to one side.
Voila!
They’re good now, just needed to break in. I was bugging because that’s never happened to me before, even with new bushings. The cold weather probably affected them too. My past trucks got broken in during the summer.
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Voila!
They’re good now, just needed to break in. I was bugging because that’s never happened to me before, even with new bushings. The cold weather probably affected them too. My past trucks got broken in during the summer.
Nice!!!
Yeah even the seasons can have a lot to do with it as well. Where I am it never gets to ice / below zero, but when I went on a skate mission way back when I was unaware of this sort of thing, very cold winter and jumped out and just could not skate my board and didn't know what was wrong with it - the bushings had become almost frozen solid feeling, compared to how I usually ride them in more temperate climate weather from leaving the board in the car overnight.
Now that I am more familiar with things like that, I can loosen off the kingpin nut a turn in those sort of conditions, but they still take a bit to warm up and become responsive again - almost like breaking in new bushings every day for some people in super cold climates, from what I have heard.
Funny how something so simple and small can have such a big impact on everything I do on a skateboard.
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Speaking of the Indy logo...what are best responses to people complaining about logo switch? Here are a few good ones I've seen:
"I love watching people throw a tantrum that they are no longer a relevant marketing demographic, while usually claiming to be a part of a “punk” culture that has rejected all that.”
"It’s ok to be a relic from dying generation/demographic. Yell at the clouds while you still have time."
“Just like deck & wheel graphics, the logo on the trucks is the most important factor in the product's performance. Independent trucks don't grind or turn as well without the old logo. If you want to grind faster, you must etch the cross into the baseplate yourself. That will also alert everyone who sees it of your status as a real core skateboarder & not a PC poser in any way.”
Add that to the list, too.
It is pretty funny that the justification Indy used to use was "Well, it's ok with the pope." Cool guys, nothing questionable whatsoever about the Catholic Church nor Pope John Paul II. Certainly no suspect connections between Nazism there, please don't look any further into this issue.
It's a bit long winded, but this is one I actually penned on facebook awhile back.
“Dear Concerned Skater:
Thank you for contacting Skateboarding Customer Support. Your moral outrage at [insert problem here] “new logo” has been duly noted. Here at Skateboarding Customer Support we take these matters very seriously.
Your complaint has been forwarded to a senior Compliance Ambassador, who sits on the Central Committee for Skateboarding Adherence and Conformity. In serious matters such as this, the Adherence and Conformity Committee usually issues a strongly worded mandate demanding the general population to [insert opposite of problem here] “not new logo.” Soon you can expect all skateboarders and/or manufacturers to change their offensive behavior to better fit your liking. We agree that everyone should conduct their lives according to your standards.
In the future, we sincerely hope your life to be free of any further [insert problem here] “new logo” problems. We further hope that other's [insert problem here] “new logo” has not significantly impacted your ability to ride your own skateboard.
We thank you for your relevant, considered, and expert opinions on these very important matters. Have a nice day.”
-The Central Committee for Skateboarding Adherence and Conformity
@Sedition this is amazing. Would you mind if I used it to respond to some bring back the crossers on fbook marketplace? It’s odd that they’re so riled up about the logo change and almost none of them actually ride a skateboard anymore. It’s crazy how much their identity is wrapped up in a company’s logo.
@funeral_tuxedo by all means!
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When I read this in relation to the very cold weather for bushings, I finally understand my problem for certain tricks during the winter during outdoor sessions, like the 360 flips for example, I always lost this trick a little in winter ahah Well then it's an adaptation to have too.. I don't blame the bushings 100%.. but the feeling and the control of riding is not the same yes.
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Tight trucks in tight transition? Rune knows the truth 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/h228Kha.jpg)
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I destroyed the new hard plastic pivot cups to try and get older pivot cups in to see if it affected the pivot point nub wiggle. And No. It didn’t. Still nub wiggle but less so with older bushings, but still there.
NHS asked me to ship in the trucks to continue the warranty process. No mention of new trucks or anything.
Question: is it possible they just ship me back the same pair of trucks? I don’t have a backup pair of 144’s, so should I go buy a new pair? :(
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I destroyed the new hard plastic pivot cups to try and get older pivot cups in to see if it affected the pivot point nub wiggle. And No. It didn’t. Still nub wiggle but less so with older bushings, but still there.
NHS asked me to ship in the trucks to continue the warranty process. No mention of new trucks or anything.
Question: is it possible they just ship me back the same pair of trucks? I don’t have a backup pair of 144’s, so should I go buy a new pair? :(
Whatever you shipped in, they should ship back a brand new pair.
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
There is, IMHO, a slight difference in overall feel. That said, 55mm is too tall for me. Forged is 53.5mm tall. Does 1.5mm really make a difference? I notice it. Besides, you can always make a lower truck taller with a small riser, but you can never make a taller truck lower, so Forged gives you more options. And correct me if I am wrong, but didn’t Stage 11 go UP to 55mm from what was a standard 53.5mm prior to that? I can’t remember that far back. Also, note the “feel” comment I made at the onset was NOT about height, but just how different baseplates and hollow axles make things, well, feel.
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
I couldn’t do the forged plates because they feel different, not just the obvious height difference. I felt more vibration on the forged to the point where it hurt my feet. The pop also sounds different which bugged me. Probably could have got used to them though, but if I wanted a slightly lower truck I’d go royal tbh
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
Yes, the height/weight play a huge role.
Less noticeable but still a factor if you're a psychopath (like me) are the hardness and wheelbase differences, cast plates have a slightly smaller WB and are softer than the forged plates.
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
There is, IMHO, a slight difference in overall feel. That said, 55mm is too tall for me. Forged is 53.5mm tall. Does 1.5mm really make a difference? I notice it. Besides, you can always make a lower truck taller with a small riser, but you can never make a taller truck lower, so Forged gives you more options. And correct me if I am wrong, but didn’t Stage 11 go UP to 55mm from what was a standard 53.5mm prior to that? I can’t remember that far back. Also, note the “feel” comment I made at the onset was NOT about height, but just how different baseplates and hollow axles make things, well, feel.
Yeah Stage 10s were capped at 53.5...
I take the stance that 1.5mm diff (same with venture? 1mm diff with thunders) between cast and forged isn't as big of a deal as we all make it...however, with Indys, 55mm get's into weird tippy territory real fast for me, but I ride 53 or lower wheels; don't see a need to ride tall trucks if you aren't pushing 54mm+ wheels....same with ~sub 52mm wheels, no reason to ride ~51mm wheels unless you are rocking lows...you start getting into weird territory...like the 90s ;) 169 indy cast with 49mm wheels...no speed and sloppy flips.
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
There is, IMHO, a slight difference in overall feel. That said, 55mm is too tall for me. Forged is 53.5mm tall. Does 1.5mm really make a difference? I notice it. Besides, you can always make a lower truck taller with a small riser, but you can never make a taller truck lower, so Forged gives you more options. And correct me if I am wrong, but didn’t Stage 11 go UP to 55mm from what was a standard 53.5mm prior to that? I can’t remember that far back. Also, note the “feel” comment I made at the onset was NOT about height, but just how different baseplates and hollow axles make things, well, feel.
Yeah Stage 10s were capped at 53.5...
I take the stance that 1.5mm diff (same with venture? 1mm diff with thunders) between cast and forged isn't as big of a deal as we all make it...however, with Indys, 55mm get's into weird tippy territory real fast for me, but I ride 53 or lower wheels; don't see a need to ride tall trucks if you aren't pushing 54mm+ wheels....same with ~sub 52mm wheels, no reason to ride ~51mm wheels unless you are rocking lows...you start getting into weird territory...like the 90s ;) 169 indy cast with 49mm wheels...no speed and sloppy flips.
I think general ratios come into play, too. Like, 55mm trucks on an 8.0" deck feel very different (height-wise) than 55mm trucks on an 8.75" deck. I ride an 8.25 with 53mm wheels. Standard Indys start to feel, just as you said, "tippy" to me. I also seem to notice a hair more ghost pop at times, and flip tricks aren't quite as responsive. Conversely, 52mm tall trucks seems to have too flat of a pop for me, and I can't get the lift I want. 53.5mm height is that magic zone.
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
There is, IMHO, a slight difference in overall feel. That said, 55mm is too tall for me. Forged is 53.5mm tall. Does 1.5mm really make a difference? I notice it. Besides, you can always make a lower truck taller with a small riser, but you can never make a taller truck lower, so Forged gives you more options. And correct me if I am wrong, but didn’t Stage 11 go UP to 55mm from what was a standard 53.5mm prior to that? I can’t remember that far back. Also, note the “feel” comment I made at the onset was NOT about height, but just how different baseplates and hollow axles make things, well, feel.
Yeah Stage 10s were capped at 53.5...
I take the stance that 1.5mm diff (same with venture? 1mm diff with thunders) between cast and forged isn't as big of a deal as we all make it...however, with Indys, 55mm get's into weird tippy territory real fast for me, but I ride 53 or lower wheels; don't see a need to ride tall trucks if you aren't pushing 54mm+ wheels....same with ~sub 52mm wheels, no reason to ride ~51mm wheels unless you are rocking lows...you start getting into weird territory...like the 90s ;) 169 indy cast with 49mm wheels...no speed and sloppy flips.
I think general ratios come into play, too. Like, 55mm trucks on an 8.0" deck feel very different (height-wise) than 55mm trucks on an 8.75" deck. I ride an 8.25 with 53mm wheels. Standard Indys start to feel, just as you said, "tippy" to me. I also seem to notice a hair more ghost pop at times, and flip tricks aren't quite as responsive. Conversely, 52mm tall trucks seems to have too flat of a pop for me, and I can't get the lift I want. 53.5mm height is that magic zone.
Only rode forged indy since the 10.5 Kostons rolled out (which were the start of the 53.5mm height for stage IX forged), dabbled in mids/standards but meh (that said, forged mids are 50.5mm a low indy and they're great if that is what you are after), and def prefer cast ventures (53.5) and the feel of slappys (53.9)...that height also gives you a bit more flexibility with wheel sizes without feeling too 'off'.
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...that height also gives you a bit more flexibility with wheel sizes without feeling too 'off'.
Facts.
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
There is, IMHO, a slight difference in overall feel. That said, 55mm is too tall for me. Forged is 53.5mm tall. Does 1.5mm really make a difference? I notice it. Besides, you can always make a lower truck taller with a small riser, but you can never make a taller truck lower, so Forged gives you more options. And correct me if I am wrong, but didn’t Stage 11 go UP to 55mm from what was a standard 53.5mm prior to that? I can’t remember that far back. Also, note the “feel” comment I made at the onset was NOT about height, but just how different baseplates and hollow axles make things, well, feel.
Yeah Stage 10s were capped at 53.5...
I take the stance that 1.5mm diff (same with venture? 1mm diff with thunders) between cast and forged isn't as big of a deal as we all make it...however, with Indys, 55mm get's into weird tippy territory real fast for me, but I ride 53 or lower wheels; don't see a need to ride tall trucks if you aren't pushing 54mm+ wheels....same with ~sub 52mm wheels, no reason to ride ~51mm wheels unless you are rocking lows...you start getting into weird territory...like the 90s ;) 169 indy cast with 49mm wheels...no speed and sloppy flips.
I think general ratios come into play, too. Like, 55mm trucks on an 8.0" deck feel very different (height-wise) than 55mm trucks on an 8.75" deck. I ride an 8.25 with 53mm wheels. Standard Indys start to feel, just as you said, "tippy" to me. I also seem to notice a hair more ghost pop at times, and flip tricks aren't quite as responsive. Conversely, 52mm tall trucks seems to have too flat of a pop for me, and I can't get the lift I want. 53.5mm height is that magic zone.
Only rode forged indy since the 10.5 Kostons rolled out (which were the start of the 53.5mm height for stage IX forged), dabbled in mids/standards but me, and def prefer cast ventures (53.5) and the feel of slappys (53.9)...that height also gives you a bit more flexibility with wheel sizes without feeling too 'off'.
Re heights of trucks:
Stage I through to VIII were 55 mm tall, then Stage IX and X were 53.5 mm tall, then back to what it was before with Stage XI at 55 mm tall for the main truck, but as forged came in during the Stage X modeling, they kept that at the lower height with the increased geometry and turn like the older trucks did, before the Stage IX came out.
The low truck that was around for a minute was phased out completely, more so because people were moving away from low trucks in general, but then less than ten years later the mid was redone and we all know how that went, so Indy doesn't have a really good relationship with lower trucks overall, even though I know some people still love their low or mid Indy truck options.
I used to put very thin rubber risers under the Stage IX trucks and that worked really well for me, maybe 1 mm and I could really feel the difference. I saw some of the first Stage X and didn't bother getting any as it was only really a baseplate upgrade at that time, so when Stage X v2 came out not long before Stage XI, they were the 55 mm tall, even though I didn't get any til later, when comparing them to the other Stage XI trucks I have.
With cast Stage XI which is my usual go to now, I just have a sticker on the board under the truck and it is just right for me, in the height and turn from 50 through to 54, 56 or 58 mm wheels, but I can see how others would feel like they were too tall, especially when skating the forged baseplates, or Venture or Thunder, although I usually have 2 mm rubber under any Thunder truck baseplates anyway.
There is some other info out there, but this is a good read if anyone wants to go back and check:
https://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
In particular:
According to Wilson, Stage IX, “was the first stage that was computer drafted.” That sounds cool, but working with untested technology had unintended consequences for Independent. “They didn’t tell us that they were really redoing the geometry at all. But my gut feeling is that they just didn’t model it right,” Wilson said. “The truck ended up quite a bit lower.”
The Stage IX modifications dropped standard Indys from 55mm to 53.5mm, totally altering the turn. It didn’t help that the baseplates sucked too. “They fucked up on the baseplate pretty bad and put two holes in it,” Wilson recalled. “Those things broke.” Though Independent returned to a beefed-up baseplate for Stage X, the lower geometry remained and the trucks just didn’t turn like old Indys, making many riders to look to past models to get the perfect turn.
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
There is, IMHO, a slight difference in overall feel. That said, 55mm is too tall for me. Forged is 53.5mm tall. Does 1.5mm really make a difference? I notice it. Besides, you can always make a lower truck taller with a small riser, but you can never make a taller truck lower, so Forged gives you more options. And correct me if I am wrong, but didn’t Stage 11 go UP to 55mm from what was a standard 53.5mm prior to that? I can’t remember that far back. Also, note the “feel” comment I made at the onset was NOT about height, but just how different baseplates and hollow axles make things, well, feel.
Yeah Stage 10s were capped at 53.5...
I take the stance that 1.5mm diff (same with venture? 1mm diff with thunders) between cast and forged isn't as big of a deal as we all make it...however, with Indys, 55mm get's into weird tippy territory real fast for me, but I ride 53 or lower wheels; don't see a need to ride tall trucks if you aren't pushing 54mm+ wheels....same with ~sub 52mm wheels, no reason to ride ~51mm wheels unless you are rocking lows...you start getting into weird territory...like the 90s ;) 169 indy cast with 49mm wheels...no speed and sloppy flips.
I think general ratios come into play, too. Like, 55mm trucks on an 8.0" deck feel very different (height-wise) than 55mm trucks on an 8.75" deck. I ride an 8.25 with 53mm wheels. Standard Indys start to feel, just as you said, "tippy" to me. I also seem to notice a hair more ghost pop at times, and flip tricks aren't quite as responsive. Conversely, 52mm tall trucks seems to have too flat of a pop for me, and I can't get the lift I want. 53.5mm height is that magic zone.
Only rode forged indy since the 10.5 Kostons rolled out (which were the start of the 53.5mm height for stage IX forged), dabbled in mids/standards but me, and def prefer cast ventures (53.5) and the feel of slappys (53.9)...that height also gives you a bit more flexibility with wheel sizes without feeling too 'off'.
Re heights of trucks:
Stage I through to VIII were 55 mm tall, then Stage IX and X were 53.5 mm tall, then back to what it was before with Stage XI at 55 mm tall for the main truck, but as forged came in during the Stage X modeling, they kept that at the lower height with the increased geometry and turn like the older trucks did, before the Stage IX came out.
The low truck that was around for a minute was phased out completely, more so because people were moving away from low trucks in general, but then less than ten years later the mid was redone and we all know how that went, so Indy doesn't have a really good relationship with lower trucks overall, even though I know some people still love their low or mid Indy truck options.
I used to put very thin rubber risers under the Stage IX trucks and that worked really well for me, maybe 1 mm and I could really feel the difference. I saw some of the first Stage X and didn't bother getting any as it was only really a baseplate upgrade at that time, so when Stage X v2 came out not long before Stage XI, they were the 55 mm tall, even though I didn't get any til later, when comparing them to the other Stage XI trucks I have.
With cast Stage XI which is my usual go to now, I just have a sticker on the board under the truck and it is just right for me, in the height and turn from 50 through to 54, 56 or 58 mm wheels, but I can see how others would feel like they were too tall, especially when skating the forged baseplates, or Venture or Thunder, although I usually have 2 mm rubber under any Thunder truck baseplates anyway.
There is some other info out there, but this is a good read if anyone wants to go back and check:
https://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
In particular:
According to Wilson, Stage IX, “was the first stage that was computer drafted.” That sounds cool, but working with untested technology had unintended consequences for Independent. “They didn’t tell us that they were really redoing the geometry at all. But my gut feeling is that they just didn’t model it right,” Wilson said. “The truck ended up quite a bit lower.”
The Stage IX modifications dropped standard Indys from 55mm to 53.5mm, totally altering the turn. It didn’t help that the baseplates sucked too. “They fucked up on the baseplate pretty bad and put two holes in it,” Wilson recalled. “Those things broke.” Though Independent returned to a beefed-up baseplate for Stage X, the lower geometry remained and the trucks just didn’t turn like old Indys, making many riders to look to past models to get the perfect turn.
the 55 mm feels pretty tall, to me.
when the trucks get wider, like wider than what i normally ride, the height bothers me less. idk.
i liked stage 10s. but people that really liked to turn a bunch could be seen experimenting with conical
bushings. popular kit was stage 10s with bones mediums.
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The 55mm height gets negated with taller/wider wheels and trucks, at least for me....last time I rode 55mm indys were 149s with wide 54mm (x99 V6s) wheels and it wasn't tippy at all.
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For those who have already tried both, do you really feel a difference between the standard and the forged hollows ? Also know if there is a difference for the way of skating and for the tricks ? ;D
There is, IMHO, a slight difference in overall feel. That said, 55mm is too tall for me. Forged is 53.5mm tall. Does 1.5mm really make a difference? I notice it. Besides, you can always make a lower truck taller with a small riser, but you can never make a taller truck lower, so Forged gives you more options. And correct me if I am wrong, but didn’t Stage 11 go UP to 55mm from what was a standard 53.5mm prior to that? I can’t remember that far back. Also, note the “feel” comment I made at the onset was NOT about height, but just how different baseplates and hollow axles make things, well, feel.
Yeah Stage 10s were capped at 53.5...
I take the stance that 1.5mm diff (same with venture? 1mm diff with thunders) between cast and forged isn't as big of a deal as we all make it...however, with Indys, 55mm get's into weird tippy territory real fast for me, but I ride 53 or lower wheels; don't see a need to ride tall trucks if you aren't pushing 54mm+ wheels....same with ~sub 52mm wheels, no reason to ride ~51mm wheels unless you are rocking lows...you start getting into weird territory...like the 90s ;) 169 indy cast with 49mm wheels...no speed and sloppy flips.
I think general ratios come into play, too. Like, 55mm trucks on an 8.0" deck feel very different (height-wise) than 55mm trucks on an 8.75" deck. I ride an 8.25 with 53mm wheels. Standard Indys start to feel, just as you said, "tippy" to me. I also seem to notice a hair more ghost pop at times, and flip tricks aren't quite as responsive. Conversely, 52mm tall trucks seems to have too flat of a pop for me, and I can't get the lift I want. 53.5mm height is that magic zone.
Only rode forged indy since the 10.5 Kostons rolled out (which were the start of the 53.5mm height for stage IX forged), dabbled in mids/standards but me, and def prefer cast ventures (53.5) and the feel of slappys (53.9)...that height also gives you a bit more flexibility with wheel sizes without feeling too 'off'.
Re heights of trucks:
Stage I through to VIII were 55 mm tall, then Stage IX and X were 53.5 mm tall, then back to what it was before with Stage XI at 55 mm tall for the main truck, but as forged came in during the Stage X modeling, they kept that at the lower height with the increased geometry and turn like the older trucks did, before the Stage IX came out.
The low truck that was around for a minute was phased out completely, more so because people were moving away from low trucks in general, but then less than ten years later the mid was redone and we all know how that went, so Indy doesn't have a really good relationship with lower trucks overall, even though I know some people still love their low or mid Indy truck options.
I used to put very thin rubber risers under the Stage IX trucks and that worked really well for me, maybe 1 mm and I could really feel the difference. I saw some of the first Stage X and didn't bother getting any as it was only really a baseplate upgrade at that time, so when Stage X v2 came out not long before Stage XI, they were the 55 mm tall, even though I didn't get any til later, when comparing them to the other Stage XI trucks I have.
With cast Stage XI which is my usual go to now, I just have a sticker on the board under the truck and it is just right for me, in the height and turn from 50 through to 54, 56 or 58 mm wheels, but I can see how others would feel like they were too tall, especially when skating the forged baseplates, or Venture or Thunder, although I usually have 2 mm rubber under any Thunder truck baseplates anyway.
There is some other info out there, but this is a good read if anyone wants to go back and check:
https://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
In particular:
According to Wilson, Stage IX, “was the first stage that was computer drafted.” That sounds cool, but working with untested technology had unintended consequences for Independent. “They didn’t tell us that they were really redoing the geometry at all. But my gut feeling is that they just didn’t model it right,” Wilson said. “The truck ended up quite a bit lower.”
The Stage IX modifications dropped standard Indys from 55mm to 53.5mm, totally altering the turn. It didn’t help that the baseplates sucked too. “They fucked up on the baseplate pretty bad and put two holes in it,” Wilson recalled. “Those things broke.” Though Independent returned to a beefed-up baseplate for Stage X, the lower geometry remained and the trucks just didn’t turn like old Indys, making many riders to look to past models to get the perfect turn.
Great writeup, but let me add that Stage VIII was 52mm. In my opinion, it would have been the ideal street Indy if it weren't for the horrendous kingpin clearance. The baseplates also can't fit inverted kingpin nuts unless you drill them out (which of course I did).
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There is some other info out there, but this is a good read if anyone wants to go back and check:
https://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
In particular:
According to Wilson, Stage IX, “was the first stage that was computer drafted.” That sounds cool, but working with untested technology had unintended consequences for Independent. “They didn’t tell us that they were really redoing the geometry at all. But my gut feeling is that they just didn’t model it right,” Wilson said. “The truck ended up quite a bit lower.”
The Stage IX modifications dropped standard Indys from 55mm to 53.5mm, totally altering the turn. It didn’t help that the baseplates sucked too. “They fucked up on the baseplate pretty bad and put two holes in it,” Wilson recalled. “Those things broke.” Though Independent returned to a beefed-up baseplate for Stage X, the lower geometry remained and the trucks just didn’t turn like old Indys, making many riders to look to past models to get the perfect turn.
Great writeup, but let me add that Stage VIII was 52mm. In my opinion, it would have been the ideal street Indy if it weren't for the horrendous kingpin clearance. The baseplates also can't fit inverted kingpin nuts unless you drill them out (which of course I did).
It's a funny one with truck heights though.
The set or three of the Stage (5, 6, 7 and 8s) but for sure the Stage VIII trucks are taller with the old hex kingpin than the Stage IX with the button head kingpin that I have here with the correct bushings - the older bushings were taller from new in the older sets, but most sets are well used so the bushings are so squashed down it often makes things a bit of a mess, but as you said, kingpin clearance was minimal to none on almost all of those trucks back in the day, which is why I think I started using a grinder on the kingpins and cutting bushings down.
Any which way, I am sure there will often be discrepancies in info, even from those working for / in the know at NHS or in the industry, as per a couple of things I noticed from that Jenkem article.
Did you still skate the old ones you have, or are they relegated to the old gear that you look at now and then category?
Everything I have of the older stuff is mostly still set up on boards, usually cruisers now, but none of it really gets skated much, as I prefer the comfort of the Stage XI for pretty much everything.
I got some V2 Stage X 159s recently, along with some V1 Stage X 149s and the difference is ridiculous - same baseplates but the 159s are the new shape and skate like the Stage XI trucks but the older 149s still have the lower and bulked out hanger and don't turn half as well either.
No wonder people often skip those ones.
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I shipped my 144 Hollows purchased this year back to NHS for warranty inspection.
They said there’s a “slight deformation on one of the hanger pivot points that is likely responsible for the issues you were experiencing with your trucks.”
They’re sending out new pair. Cool.
I’ve never submitted for claim, so it’s always possible they’re just sending me new trucks just to give good customer service, and there really is nothing wrong with them…. But I really don’t think that the pivot point nub should be able to wiggle freely back and forth in the trucks.
So we’ll see when the new ones come in
Party on.
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I shipped my 144 Hollows purchased this year back to NHS for warranty inspection.
They said there’s a “slight deformation on one of the hanger pivot points that is likely responsible for the issues you were experiencing with your trucks.”
They’re sending out new pair. Cool.
I’ve never submitted for claim, so it’s always possible they’re just sending me new trucks just to give good customer service, and there really is nothing wrong with them…. But I really don’t think that the pivot point nub should be able to wiggle freely back and forth in the trucks.
So we’ll see when the new ones come in
Party on.
The guy who broke his ti axle 149 truck put in a warranty, didn't hear back but then a set of 149 ti axle trucks turned up in the mail.
I guess sometimes, they want to see things, then other times they just send them straight out.
This is in AU though, so it could be different for various places round the world.
Stoked on getting new trucks any which way.
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I’m currently in doubt about whether to get Indy 159s or 169s. I recently got a Grosso 9.25 shaped deck that I currently ride with Ace AF1 66s, but I want to switch to Independent. Our local skateshop owner skates the same deck with 159s, but I think the 169’s would provide a bit more stability, at the cost of making the setup bulkier.
Any advice or experiences?
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...but I think the 169’s would provide a bit more stability, at the cost of making the setup bulkier.
Only you can answer that question. That said, you already know what the differences are (see above).
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I’m currently in doubt about whether to get Indy 159s or 169s. I recently got a Grosso 9.25 shaped deck that I currently ride with Ace AF1 66s, but I want to switch to Independent. Our local skateshop owner skates the same deck with 159s, but I think the 169’s would provide a bit more stability, at the cost of making the setup bulkier.
Any advice or experiences?
what wheels? If you are riding some wide boys you might want to go 159s.
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I shipped my 144 Hollows purchased this year back to NHS for warranty inspection.
They said there’s a “slight deformation on one of the hanger pivot points that is likely responsible for the issues you were experiencing with your trucks.”
They’re sending out new pair. Cool.
I’ve never submitted for claim, so it’s always possible they’re just sending me new trucks just to give good customer service, and there really is nothing wrong with them…. But I really don’t think that the pivot point nub should be able to wiggle freely back and forth in the trucks.
So we’ll see when the new ones come in
Party on.
The guy who broke his ti axle 149 truck put in a warranty, didn't hear back but then a set of 149 ti axle trucks turned up in the mail.
I guess sometimes, they want to see things, then other times they just send them straight out.
This is in AU though, so it could be different for various places round the world.
Stoked on getting new trucks any which way.
I’m guessing it would just take one photo to show a broke truck, but an over-machined pivot point would need a caliper measurement to see if it was tooled wrong.
I’m in the US, so probably easy and cheap for them to send me a prepaid UPS label.
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I’m currently in doubt about whether to get Indy 159s or 169s. I recently got a Grosso 9.25 shaped deck that I currently ride with Ace AF1 66s, but I want to switch to Independent. Our local skateshop owner skates the same deck with 159s, but I think the 169’s would provide a bit more stability, at the cost of making the setup bulkier.
Any advice or experiences?
what wheels? If you are riding some wide boys you might want to go 159s.
i’d measure the deck at the rear mounting holes, and size the axles to that, taking into account a vague notion of what wheels i wanted to use. shaped decks, with hot rod trucks, lead to me doing some near push-slams.
i like the way 169s look. they look rad.
i’ve never been stoked on how they skate, i just lose flip tricks.
159s are excellent.
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I posted this in the Indy 159 thread, but posting here as well.
I’m currently in doubt about getting these or the 169s. I recently got an Anti Hero Grosso 9.25 shaped deck. I’m currently skating it with Ace AF1 66’s that I had laying around but I want to switch to Indy. The local skateshop owner skates the same deck with Indy 159’s, but I feel like 169s could provide a bit more stability at the cost of making the setup more bulky.
What do you think?
Those Grosso 9.25 are 8.9 at the front axle and 8.6 at the back (if that) from setting one up a while back, so although I know others have 169s on it, the 159s just seem to fit a little better.
Ace have shorter hangers with longer axles, so check to see how much that sits out, because the Indy trucks will be on either side of that, 169s sitting out, 159s sitting in, even by only a few mm in total.
As to which is better, that is up to you - some people run trucks under the board with little wheel sight, others run them with trucks and wheels wider, even if they don't see the wheels a lot.
Wider = more stability
Not as wide = lighter (marginally) and more nimble.
The choice is yours really.
I have both and they are each good in their own way, but also depends on where you like to sit on coping or how a wider truck feels to grind / turn on as well.
People have even put 149s with super fat wheels on them and still not looked too bad, but wheel shape and size also has something to do with it as well.
* For what it is worth, I thought the last board Grosso posted had 159s before he went to Ace (but probably were 169s after all), but that doesn't mean people can't change it up and do their own thing either. Can't find where he says it, but 159 or 169s are still ok. His setup video from 2012 he says 169s, with the close up showing all washers on the outside to get the wheels in closer.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BupKsGzgmSx/
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv9jX9egwhv/
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Thanks for the tips and advice everyone :)
I ended up going for a set of 169s for the added stability. I just did a few laps at my local pumptrack and I’m very pleased with my choice! The board can turn sharp if I want to, but still rides very stable at higher speeds; it feels like a great setup.
I even popped a few ollies and despite the weight and 14.75” wheelbase, it popped remarkably well. I guess the extra heft and height of the Indy standard plays a part in this ;)
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Thanks for the tips and advice everyone :)
I ended up going for a set of 169s for the added stability. I just did a few laps at my local pumptrack and I’m very pleased with my choice! The board can turn sharp if I want to, but still rides very stable at higher speeds; it feels like a great setup.
I even popped a few ollies and despite the weight and 14.75” wheelbase, it popped remarkably well. I guess the extra heft and height of the Indy standard plays a part in this ;)
How did you feel after changing from aces to indy? The last time I've riden indy they felt too wiggly in the middle even with tight trucks but it was 149s
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Thanks for the tips and advice everyone :)
I ended up going for a set of 169s for the added stability. I just did a few laps at my local pumptrack and I’m very pleased with my choice! The board can turn sharp if I want to, but still rides very stable at higher speeds; it feels like a great setup.
I even popped a few ollies and despite the weight and 14.75” wheelbase, it popped remarkably well. I guess the extra heft and height of the Indy standard plays a part in this ;)
How did you feel after changing from aces to indy? The last time I've riden indy they felt too wiggly in the middle even with tight trucks but it was 149s
I’ve been doubting between Ace and Indy for a while and switched between them regularly for the past time. I recognize what you describe, it feels like Aces spring back to center better than Indy which gives them a bit more center stability. However, I also feel like the ‘give’ that Indy has in the center helps me with popping and doing tricks. It feels as if they interfere less when popping and doing tricks. Even though I was riding the lighter Ace AF1 Hollow 66s on the Grosso deck, the pop felt better with the heavier Indy 169s
Overall, Aces turn sharper and deeper, and they feel a bit more twitchy and playful. I love to ride Aces with their sharp and deep turn on a cruiser, but for other setups I’m gonna stick to Indy.
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Thanks for the tips and advice everyone :)
I ended up going for a set of 169s for the added stability. I just did a few laps at my local pumptrack and I’m very pleased with my choice! The board can turn sharp if I want to, but still rides very stable at higher speeds; it feels like a great setup.
I even popped a few ollies and despite the weight and 14.75” wheelbase, it popped remarkably well. I guess the extra heft and height of the Indy standard plays a part in this ;)
How did you feel after changing from aces to indy? The last time I've riden indy they felt too wiggly in the middle even with tight trucks but it was 149s
I can switch between the two without noticing a huge difference. It's not like going from Ace to Venture; my experience is that the Indy Stage 11 skates very similar to an Ace. I haven't messed with the Stage 4s, but I imagine that's even more like an Ace.
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Thanks for the tips and advice everyone :)
I ended up going for a set of 169s for the added stability. I just did a few laps at my local pumptrack and I’m very pleased with my choice! The board can turn sharp if I want to, but still rides very stable at higher speeds; it feels like a great setup.
I even popped a few ollies and despite the weight and 14.75” wheelbase, it popped remarkably well. I guess the extra heft and height of the Indy standard plays a part in this ;)
How did you feel after changing from aces to indy? The last time I've riden indy they felt too wiggly in the middle even with tight trucks but it was 149s
I can switch between the two without noticing a huge difference. It's not like going from Ace to Venture; my experience is that the Indy Stage 11 skates very similar to an Ace. I haven't messed with the Stage 4s, but I imagine that's even more like an Ace.
maybe i’m way off here, and this is stage 11 vs ace classics (i am about to try af1s again): grind goes to indy, all day. pop, indy (except for ace classic 55s, liked those a lot). turn is pretty easily ace.
i’ve heard more than a few folks say that they prefer steep birds for indy/ace, i don’t like steep birds, maybe that explains why i didn’t like the trucks as much
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Indy's definitely grind better than both of Ace's offerings. Put some Ace medium bushings in some stage 11's and the turning is pretty damn close. And same bushings but in the stage 4's...phew the turn is nuts, even better than Ace.
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Indy's definitely grind better than both of Ace's offerings. Put some Ace medium bushings in some stage 11's and the turning is pretty damn close. And same bushings but in the stage 4's...phew the turn is nuts, even better than Ace.
That's actually a good point. The Indys I occasionally skate have the white bushings from my Ace Classics in them.
Agreed that Indy grind is the best.
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aces (the af1s) are heavy. they give the illusion of a lighter pop due to the tighter wheelbase. so when you snap your tail it’s light but when you level & lift it’s heavy. it’s an odd feeling to adjust to when coming from indys. the weight of an indy feels distributed equally. idk if i’m making sense
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Indys grind better than aces, and the stage 4's deff turn better.
I think ace only wins in esthetics.
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Indys grind better than aces, and the stage 4's deff turn better.
I think ace only wins in esthetics.
no.
ryde or die.
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Indys grind better than aces, and the stage 4's deff turn better.
I think ace only wins in esthetics.
Stage 4 are heavier than Ace of the closest size, I think. And KP clearance is really bad with Stage 4
I also prefer the height and turn of Ace over Stage 4. Stage 4 are great but are a little unstable on center.
Don't get me wrong I love Stage 4 (Prefer the indy grind, agreed) and have a set in rotation but the Ace geometry still wins me over every time.
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Indys grind better than aces, and the stage 4's deff turn better.
I think ace only wins in esthetics.
Stage 4 are heavier than Ace of the closest size, I think. And KP clearance is really bad with Stage 4
I also prefer the height and turn of Ace over Stage 4. Stage 4 are great but are a little unstable on center.
Don't get me wrong I love Stage 4 (Prefer the indy grind, agreed) and have a set in rotation but the Ace geometry still wins me over every time.
For those reasons, if a pair of Stage 4 came to me, I would skate them, but I am not going to go buy a pair just to have another set of trucks I most likely will only put on a cruiser or something.
I have plenty of current Indy, Ace and other trucks to keep my truck needs sorted.
A new guy at the indoor park had a set the other day and was ripping on them, but I did notice he got hung up a couple of times on that taller kingpin.
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Indys grind better than aces, and the stage 4's deff turn better.
I think ace only wins in esthetics.
Agreed. I copped some proto "internally lubricated" Riptide pivots for the Stage 4's and man the turn is next level. I think the Indy pivots really hamper their performance. Tighter turning arc than Ace any day. Ace are the nicer looking truck though for sure.
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https://youtu.be/RdENUxblL_I?si=O-AXSbhjFOWAUqcF
Seems relevant to the current discussion. Would get you down to Ace height, more kingpin clearance, and presumably more stability on center.
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aces (the af1s) are heavy. they give the illusion of a lighter pop due to the tighter wheelbase. so when you snap your tail it’s light but when you level & lift it’s heavy. it’s an odd feeling to adjust to when coming from indys. the weight of an indy feels distributed equally. idk if i’m making sense
You are.
On the other end of this spectrum is where thunders are.
Lighter truck with a heavier/snappier pop feel.
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Someone sent me this link.
Anyone else seen these around - hollow inverted kingpin now available...
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/stage-11-hollow-ikp-bar-polished-silver-standard-skateboard-trucks-independent
Marketing blurb below:
Lightweight version of Stage XI with hollow axle & NEW HOLLOW INVERTED KINGPIN with shaft nut. Durable all purpose truck for any type of skateboarding.
7% lighter than Stage XI standard trucks
55mm tall for optimal performance and wheel clearance with wheels 56mm and under.
(https://nhsskatedirect.com/cdn/shop/files/76381_1000x.jpg?v=1707154267)
I wanted to see a pic looking down on the hollow kingpin, but not to worry. Probably the same as any other one.
Also I am still good with the standards, or at least the normal kingpin arrangement but I guess others might be more keen on this sort of thing.
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I don't know if many realize this like me, but, with my forged hollows, I can adapt with all boards. Whether short or long boards, short or long wheelbase, these trucks are there are a bit of a "go everywhere".. With ventures high, a board longer than 31.5 is hell.
The independent forged hollows would not be the good compromise compared to their wheelbase when we thought about it ?
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I don't know if many realize this like me, but, with my forged hollows, I can adapt with all boards. Whether short or long boards, short or long wheelbase, these trucks are there are a bit of a "go everywhere".. With ventures high, a board longer than 31.5 is hell.
The independent forged hollows would not be the good compromise compared to their wheelbase when we thought about it ?
I feel the same way. They are my favorite trucks because I can use them on any board and feel comfortable and not have to adjust as much with other truck and board combos. Everything just works.
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I don't know if many realize this like me, but, with my forged hollows, I can adapt with all boards. Whether short or long boards, short or long wheelbase, these trucks are there are a bit of a "go everywhere".. With ventures high, a board longer than 31.5 is hell.
The independent forged hollows would not be the good compromise compared to their wheelbase when we thought about it ?
Yeah, on the other hand, I don't know if it's the same thing with the standards.
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I don't know if many realize this like me, but, with my forged hollows, I can adapt with all boards. Whether short or long boards, short or long wheelbase, these trucks are there are a bit of a "go everywhere".. With ventures high, a board longer than 31.5 is hell.
The independent forged hollows would not be the good compromise compared to their wheelbase when we thought about it ?
This is why Forged Indys are the best trucks, ever. They are the perfect "medium" than can be used in any situation. Not as heavy/twitchy as Ace. Not as low/less-turny as Thunder (no baseplate "problem," too) or Venture. Want tight or loose trucks? The large array of after-market Indy bushings has you covered to fine tune your turn (no other truck company offers as many bushing options). They just have the perfect all-around balance of utility, function, feel, and fun that you could ever want from a truck. I'm set for life on them.
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Just to add to that "hollow inverted kingpin" option that has just come out. Someone showed me this post, which has a downward view of the kingpin now.
Nothing amazing or groundbreaking, but it is interesting to see.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2xlJTqvdO6/
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I don't know if many realize this like me, but, with my forged hollows, I can adapt with all boards. Whether short or long boards, short or long wheelbase, these trucks are there are a bit of a "go everywhere".. With ventures high, a board longer than 31.5 is hell.
The independent forged hollows would not be the good compromise compared to their wheelbase when we thought about it ?
This is why Forged Indys are the best trucks, ever. They are the perfect "medium" than can be used in any situation. Not as heavy/twitchy as Ace. Not as low/less-turny as Thunder (no baseplate "problem," too) or Venture. Want tight or loose trucks? The large array of after-market Indy bushings has you covered to fine tune your turn (no other truck company offers as many bushing options). They just have the perfect all-around balance of utility, function, feel, and fun that you could ever want from a truck. I'm set for life on them.
Just on that, Indy are also the brand with the most options in trucks too:
Standard cast
Standard cast hollow
Forged hollow
Ti axle, forged hollow baseplate
Inverted kingpin standard
Hollow inverted kingpin standard
Mid
Mid hollow axle
Mid hollow with forged baseplate...*
* Waiting for hollow kingpin to be added here too.
Stage 4
Stage 11 T hanger
Stage 11 215s...
Is that it?
https://nhsskatedirect.com/collections/independent-skateboard-trucks
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Mid’s have been discontinued, yes they are still in the market place but they will not be going forward with them in 2024.
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Mid’s have been discontinued, yes they are still in the market place but they will not be going forward with them in 2024.
Could have been good, but they fucked them up.
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Mid’s have been discontinued, yes they are still in the market place but they will not be going forward with them in 2024.
Could have been good, but they fucked them up.
It's almost like people that want lower trucks dont want them to be heavier.
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Mid’s have been discontinued, yes they are still in the market place but they will not be going forward with them in 2024.
Could have been good, but they fucked them up.
It's almost like people that want lower trucks dont want them to be heavier.
Or contrived notions of kingpin clearance. Like, how did that design concept ever get beyond an engineering meeting?
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The real question I have about IKP Indys is whether or not the kingpin will loosen like it did with the Mids.
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The real question I have about IKP Indys is whether or not the kingpin will loosen like it did with the Mids.
Rhetorical question?
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The real question I have about IKP Indys is whether or not the kingpin will loosen like it did with the Mids.
I'm sure it will.
If they made some change to prevent that you'd best believe they would have some crazy marketing lingo describing that in the new ads.
"NEXT LEVEL KINGPIN LOCK TECHNOLOGY"
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The real question I have about IKP Indys is whether or not the kingpin will loosen like it did with the Mids.
I'm sure it will.
If they made some change to prevent that you'd best believe they would have some crazy marketing lingo describing that in the new ads.
"NEXT LEVEL KINGPIN LOCK TECHNOLOGY"
(Blue LocTite)
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I have a set of IKP baseplates, and I have noticed that on one baseplate the kingpin threads seem to bottom out before the other one, leading to a significantly looser truck on one end than the other. Has anyone else observed this in theirs as well? I was considering trying to return them to NHS for another set but if they're not making them anymore I might not bother
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I have a set of IKP baseplates, and I have noticed that on one baseplate the kingpin threads seem to bottom out before the other one, leading to a significantly looser truck on one end than the other. Has anyone else observed this in theirs as well? I was considering trying to return them to NHS for another set but if they're not making them anymore I might not bother
See if you can get a set of cast/forged with the regular kingpin in exchange for them. That would be the real optimal play there.
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Mid’s have been discontinued, yes they are still in the market place but they will not be going forward with them in 2024.
Thanks for that info.
Yeah I was wondering how long they would keep trying to push mids in any option. Still recent pro versions at full price, but the plain mids are on clearance in most big shops here in AU, some under wholesale just to get rid of them, so I can see them dropping whatever remaining stock anywhere they can and moving on.
As others have asked, inverted kingpin technology might still be flawed, but at least the standard height hangers (in whatever variety) can be put on them and away they go, so I guess that will be an option that stays for a bit longer.
Any which way, it is more just interesting to see, without getting at all interested in buying any - I am happy with standards anyway, or others as said, content with hollow forged options.
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I have a set of IKP baseplates, and I have noticed that on one baseplate the kingpin threads seem to bottom out before the other one, leading to a significantly looser truck on one end than the other. Has anyone else observed this in theirs as well? I was considering trying to return them to NHS for another set but if they're not making them anymore I might not bother
Do you mean the kingpins are different, or something else in the baseplate nut locking area is different?
Any which way, you can always hit them up, check their warranty page and put in something to ask and see.
https://nhs-inc.com/info/warranty
I guess I had taken everything apart on one set of mid trucks that went back for a successful warranty, just to check over everything first, or swap things around and see. More than anything with sets I still have on boards, I tighten the kingpins right down to full lock and then loosen them off as little as possible from there, sometimes not needing to at all if the bushings are just right, because the more you loosen it off, the less material it will have to hold on to as well as the kingpin head sitting up higher as well.
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
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I have a set of IKP baseplates, and I have noticed that on one baseplate the kingpin threads seem to bottom out before the other one, leading to a significantly looser truck on one end than the other. Has anyone else observed this in theirs as well? I was considering trying to return them to NHS for another set but if they're not making them anymore I might not bother
I had the same issue, I run my trucks pretty tight and would bottom out way to early. They need to have a longer thread and less sleeve but they probably had some issue with the bushings. I fixed it by running a bottom conical bushing on the top, I just flipped it over and the height made it work. Kinda looks like a polarizer truck but it's functional so I'm running with it for now. The kingpin height likely negates any benefit of ikp at this point, but I was too stubborn to switch back.
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
Not what I was told.
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
I don't doubt you. Just sharing what I heard. I don't have any insider information, I just emailed them by their "contact us" function on their site.
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
I don't doubt you. Just sharing what I heard. I don't have any insider information, I just emailed them by their "contact us" function on their site.
I guess it’s only me, Tiago and Carlos that love the mids…
Sigh…
They were the only Indy’s that worked for me exactly as Carlos said, just low enough I can tap my tail without getting ghost pop
I really hope it isn’t true, if anything just remaster the mids somehow
I can’t do the regular stage 11, even the 53.5mm forged aren’t low enough
That 52mm height is the the sweet spot, not too low you tap too fast and get rockets but not too tall you ghost
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
I don't doubt you. Just sharing what I heard. I don't have any insider information, I just emailed them by their "contact us" function on their site.
I guess it’s only me, Tiago and Carlos that love the mids…
Sigh…
They were the only Indy’s that worked for me exactly as Carlos said, just low enough I can tap my tail without getting ghost pop
I really hope it isn’t true, if anything just remaster the mids somehow
I can’t do the regular stage 11, even the 53.5mm forged aren’t low enough
That 52mm height is the the sweet spot, not too low you tap too fast and get rockets but not too tall you ghost
haven’t tried the mids, but don’t like how indy’s feel for me, i think because height
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I love my indy hollows, as I said, very good compromise for all boards, but once again, big problem with the back truck which unscrews naturally over time.. As you can see in the photo, the bolt of the back truck is much higher and less tight than the nose one.. I had this problem with the original bushings, and it was worse because after a while my truck was no longer even tight and it was like daewon song truck, I even had the truck disassembled by itself during a session.. I even had trouble finding my bolt which landed in the grass.. ;D , that's why I changed to bones bushings, It seemed to me that things were getting better, and I seem to have the same problem starting again..And yet, if I tighten the back truck to the same level as the front truck, it's much tighter than the front.. See what I mean ? Unfortunately, I don't know if my next trucks will be indy , I have never had this kind of problem with other brands.. Is this a defect in your opinion of the kingpin ?
The back truck :
(https://i.ibb.co/10F6MSB/IMG-7934.jpg) (https://ibb.co/10F6MSB)
The front truck :
(https://i.ibb.co/c6g75Mp/IMG-7933.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c6g75Mp)
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What's the measurements of the kingpins? Base plat to end on both.
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I love my indy hollows, as I said, very good compromise for all boards, but once again, big problem with the back truck which unscrews naturally over time.. As you can see in the photo, the bolt of the back truck is much higher and less tight than the nose one.. I had this problem with the original bushings, and it was worse because after a while my truck was no longer even tight and it was like daewon song truck, I even had the truck disassembled by itself during a session.. I even had trouble finding my bolt which landed in the grass.. ;D , that's why I changed to bones bushings, It seemed to me that things were getting better, and I seem to have the same problem starting again..And yet, if I tighten the back truck to the same level as the front truck, it's much tighter than the front.. See what I mean ? Unfortunately, I don't know if my next trucks will be indy , I have never had this kind of problem with other brands.. Is this a defect in your opinion of the kingpin ?
I guess I would look at that and get that kingpin nut down so at least all threads engage, so the top of the nut is at least the same level as the kingpin itself, but that is just me. I don't like kingpin sticking up above the nut ever, but in some situations the opposite is going to cause more problems and people I know have had to keep stopping to tighten the kingpin nut multiple times every session.
With some bushings or arrangements, people can't get the trucks loose enough with having the kingpin nut down lower, so you either change out the kingpin nut, tighten it down some more or figure out a different way to sort out the trucks. Maybe even try those Bones bushings without the metal washer until they squash down a bit or loosen up, but even that can sometimes cause more problems.
Might sound a bit blunt, but not meaning to be - just one of those things, but at least that is how I see it.
Good luck with whatever you try.
* On any other normal bushings, you can trim down the top bushing, shave it, cut it, rub it down on grip tape or whatever works to get it down a mm and then you have no issues getting the kingpin nut on all the way. That is what I have done with a lot of sets of trucks to make things work for lighter people who need more turn, without having to buy new bushings, or to get the kingpin nut down lower and give more kingpin clearance at the same time.
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I love my indy hollows, as I said, very good compromise for all boards, but once again, big problem with the back truck which unscrews naturally over time.. As you can see in the photo, the bolt of the back truck is much higher and less tight than the nose one.. I had this problem with the original bushings, and it was worse because after a while my truck was no longer even tight and it was like daewon song truck, I even had the truck disassembled by itself during a session.. I even had trouble finding my bolt which landed in the grass.. ;D , that's why I changed to bones bushings, It seemed to me that things were getting better, and I seem to have the same problem starting again..And yet, if I tighten the back truck to the same level as the front truck, it's much tighter than the front.. See what I mean ? Unfortunately, I don't know if my next trucks will be indy , I have never had this kind of problem with other brands.. Is this a defect in your opinion of the kingpin ?
The back truck :
(https://i.ibb.co/10F6MSB/IMG-7934.jpg) (https://ibb.co/10F6MSB)
The front truck :
(https://i.ibb.co/c6g75Mp/IMG-7933.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c6g75Mp)
No - it’s not a defect. You need to engage the Nylock for the nut to stay on, if the nuts are on properly and still coming loose, you need new kingpin nuts. I’d say, new nuts, crank them at least flush, if that’s too tight then change to Bones soft.
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i have some indy mid 159 on an old/new enjoi 9.125 egg. really like them
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
I don't doubt you. Just sharing what I heard. I don't have any insider information, I just emailed them by their "contact us" function on their site.
I guess it’s only me, Tiago and Carlos that love the mids…
Sigh…
They were the only Indy’s that worked for me exactly as Carlos said, just low enough I can tap my tail without getting ghost pop
I really hope it isn’t true, if anything just remaster the mids somehow
I can’t do the regular stage 11, even the 53.5mm forged aren’t low enough
That 52mm height is the the sweet spot, not too low you tap too fast and get rockets but not too tall you ghost
Maybe give thunders with the cast plates a shot?
I rode indys for a long time, but i've been enjoying my time on thunders for about a year or so now.
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
I don't doubt you. Just sharing what I heard. I don't have any insider information, I just emailed them by their "contact us" function on their site.
I guess it’s only me, Tiago and Carlos that love the mids…
Sigh…
They were the only Indy’s that worked for me exactly as Carlos said, just low enough I can tap my tail without getting ghost pop
I really hope it isn’t true, if anything just remaster the mids somehow
I can’t do the regular stage 11, even the 53.5mm forged aren’t low enough
That 52mm height is the the sweet spot, not too low you tap too fast and get rockets but not too tall you ghost
Maybe give thunders with the cast plates a shot?
I rode indys for a long time, but i've been enjoying my time on thunders for about a year or so now.
@Rob is the king of the truck setups thread, I’m sure he’s tried everything available on the market
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I guess it’s only me, Tiago and Carlos that love the mids…
Sigh…
They were the only Indy’s that worked for me exactly as Carlos said, just low enough I can tap my tail without getting ghost pop
I really hope it isn’t true, if anything just remaster the mids somehow
I can’t do the regular stage 11, even the 53.5mm forged aren’t low enough
That 52mm height is the the sweet spot, not too low you tap too fast and get rockets but not too tall you ghost
To be fair, how long does a set of trucks last for you?
I have seen so many around still, lots on clearance so I would go as far as to say they are a bargain and you could stock up and be set for life, or close to it, with the current stock that is around, depending on funds or other things.
Any which way, I can't see them disappearing overnight, or even within a year - there are that many out there.
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So is it just me or do forged Indy's turn different than standards? I know the geometry it supposed to be the same, but I swear the standards just turn better. I was at the park the other day skating 2 different setups, one with forged and the other standards. They had the exact same new bushings and were tightened down the same number of threads. But skating them side by side, I could definitely tell the forged turned more shallow or something? Kind of hard to explain but turning just doesn't feel the same. Anybody else feel this way or is it just my madness?
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So is it just me or do forged Indy's turn different than standards? I know the geometry it supposed to be the same, but I swear the standards just turn better. I was at the park the other day skating 2 different setups, one with forged and the other standards. They had the exact same new bushings and were tightened down the same number of threads. But skating them side by side, I could definitely tell the forged turned more shallow or something? Kind of hard to explain but turning just doesn't feel the same. Anybody else feel this way or is it just my madness?
They do turn a bit differently but that’s part of the height difference I think. If the trucks were different widths that may have affected how they turn, the stock bushings in one may be taller than the other, etc. There’s a lot of factors that could cause the different feel.
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So is it just me or do forged Indy's turn different than standards? I know the geometry it supposed to be the same, but I swear the standards just turn better. I was at the park the other day skating 2 different setups, one with forged and the other standards. They had the exact same new bushings and were tightened down the same number of threads. But skating them side by side, I could definitely tell the forged turned more shallow or something? Kind of hard to explain but turning just doesn't feel the same. Anybody else feel this way or is it just my madness?
They do turn a bit differently but that’s part of the height difference I think. If the trucks were different widths that may have affected how they turn, the stock bushings in one may be taller than the other, etc. There’s a lot of factors that could cause the different feel.
Same board too?
I know some people set up an identical product to check / test things, but being a skateboard there can always be differences, even in how things are wearing, bushings in particular.
That said, being lower and getting to wheelbite faster, I can feel like there is "less turn" on boards I have with forged baseplates, compared to my usual cast standard trucks / baseplates, so I would need to put 1.5 mm risers on to really check if they felt different to me, so they are both the same height.
I haven't looked that closely at or made comparisons, but Meathook most likely has it right there as well.
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Wasn’t a better turning truck one of the reasons they went to 55mm on the stage 11 from 53.5 on the stage 10?
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
I don't doubt you. Just sharing what I heard. I don't have any insider information, I just emailed them by their "contact us" function on their site.
I guess it’s only me, Tiago and Carlos that love the mids…
Sigh…
They were the only Indy’s that worked for me exactly as Carlos said, just low enough I can tap my tail without getting ghost pop
I really hope it isn’t true, if anything just remaster the mids somehow
I can’t do the regular stage 11, even the 53.5mm forged aren’t low enough
That 52mm height is the the sweet spot, not too low you tap too fast and get rockets but not too tall you ghost
The new Royals are 52mm high, and turn a lot like indys
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I emailed NHS this afternoon and they stated, "no word on mids being discontinued on our end."
I don't doubt you. Just sharing what I heard. I don't have any insider information, I just emailed them by their "contact us" function on their site.
I guess it’s only me, Tiago and Carlos that love the mids…
Sigh…
They were the only Indy’s that worked for me exactly as Carlos said, just low enough I can tap my tail without getting ghost pop
I really hope it isn’t true, if anything just remaster the mids somehow
I can’t do the regular stage 11, even the 53.5mm forged aren’t low enough
That 52mm height is the the sweet spot, not too low you tap too fast and get rockets but not too tall you ghost
Maybe give thunders with the cast plates a shot?
I rode indys for a long time, but i've been enjoying my time on thunders for about a year or so now.
@Rob is the king of the truck setups thread, I’m sure he’s tried everything available on the market
Ahaha thank you thank you but I’m more of the king kook of truck setups
Yeah thunders are my goto but I like to swap around cause I’m in denial that thunders might be the best trucks
They’re really good but I’m looking for that truck that I can adjust uniquely to me, I skate tight but I still want to be able to turn a little when I lean hard or push fast and a pop angle that’s geared towards my preference(flip tricks, grind, manuals)
And yes embarrassing to admit I have tried almost everything even mini logos, tensors(even the alloys ) krux(k3,k4, and current k5), destructos(the modern ones not early 00’s), silver M and L class, all the aces, theeve, slappy, and all the popular stuff
The only trucks I haven’t tried are the lurpivs, film, tracker axis and current royals with the sacred geometry baseplates and revamped pivot stem(I’ve had the previous generation and they were good)
I have a set of the new royals but I’m waiting for the shop to stock the 139 to swap cause I’m all about the carpet board setup these days and 144 is too much boat for me
I’m pondering to grab a set of the tracker axis but trucks being in the tall 54/55mm height group seem to never work my way, too much ghost pop cause muscle memory doesn’t wanna adjust from the glory days of 7.6 low trucks
To be fair, how long does a set of trucks last for you?
I have seen so many around still, lots on clearance so I would go as far as to say they are a bargain and you could stock up and be set for life, or close to it, with the current stock that is around, depending on funds or other things.
Any which way, I can't see them disappearing overnight, or even within a year - there are that many out there.
A set of trucks so far has lasted me a good year even 2 if I actually stick to it, I don’t grind them down crazy but more like the axle get bent or something about the way they turn doesn’t work anymore and I’m like eh next
But I’m glad to know cause I did about the same with the stage 11 lows, got 3 sets just hanging out. Standard raws, Reynolds hollows, and an all black hollow Leo Romero set
I tried plugging them on but all of a sudden they really were too low where I kept rocketing a lot and I gave up, but when they work it’s the best hefty pop you work for and I think that’s the feeling Leo Romero had down but the bullying got him on the standard 139 now from his previous 129 lows. Can you believe the pop he had and he was riding 129 LOWS! Like Billy marks and tommy Sandoval type stuff
The new Royals are 52mm high, and turn a lot like indys
Just waiting to try them when they get a set of 139 at the shop, supposedly the supplier hasn’t been getting back to most of the shops so who knows what’s going on with the supply chain and royal doesn’t respond to any emails so until then maybe I’ll suck it up and plug the 144 on and skate them and love them but madness won’t let me settle
I’m just glad atleast I know I like the trucks tight so don’t really have to goof off and try to find the “sweet spot”
Just break in the bushings, crank them, bust a kickflip like the ole “if it’s a good deck you can kickflip good first try” if it caught and landed clean the trucks are tight enough
Back on topic, you guys think they’ll come out with a stage 1/2/3 remaster like the 4 to compete with the lurpiv/ a bigger 109/smaller 215?
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Wasn’t a better turning truck one of the reasons they went to 55mm on the stage 11 from 53.5 on the stage 10?
Yeah people wanted the feel of the Stage 7 and 8, more so than the lower Stage 9 and 10, so they went back to 55 mm tall on the Stage 11, with the forged baseplate coming in at 53.5 mm to keep others happy who wanted a lower truck.
Kind of funny cause there was always someone wanting something else, more turn, more height, more clearance, lower height, lower weight, etc.
Back on topic, you guys think they’ll come out with a stage 1/2/3 remaster like the 4 to compete with the lurpiv/ a bigger 109/smaller 215?
At least everything works really well for now, so I really can't see a whole lot more options, but I don't know what the future holds at all in terms of re releases and other options or variations.
No doubt they will try to come up with something else in light of other trucks or trends, as it all goes.
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Wasn’t a better turning truck one of the reasons they went to 55mm on the stage 11 from 53.5 on the stage 10?
Yeah people wanted the feel of the Stage 7 and 8, more so than the lower Stage 9 and 10, so they went back to 55 mm tall on the Stage 11, with the forged baseplate coming in at 53.5 mm to keep others happy who wanted a lower truck.
Kind of funny cause there was always someone wanting something else, more turn, more height, more clearance, lower height, lower weight, etc.
Expand Quote
Back on topic, you guys think they’ll come out with a stage 1/2/3 remaster like the 4 to compete with the lurpiv/ a bigger 109/smaller 215?
At least everything works really well for now, so I really can't see a whole lot more options, but I don't know what the future holds at all in terms of re releases and other options or variations.
No doubt they will try to come up with something else in light of other trucks or trends, as it all goes.
Yeah that makes a lot of sense, and coming back to this thread I realized. The stage 4 is a smaller 215.
I wonder if time will repeat itself and we get a 53mm standard again cause they figured out how to give it the stage 4/ace turn and less wheelbite
Cause aren’t ace af1 53mm and popular
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So is it just me or do forged Indy's turn different than standards? I know the geometry it supposed to be the same, but I swear the standards just turn better. I was at the park the other day skating 2 different setups, one with forged and the other standards. They had the exact same new bushings and were tightened down the same number of threads. But skating them side by side, I could definitely tell the forged turned more shallow or something? Kind of hard to explain but turning just doesn't feel the same. Anybody else feel this way or is it just my madness?
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They do turn a bit differently but that’s part of the height difference I think. If the trucks were different widths that may have affected how they turn, the stock bushings in one may be taller than the other, etc. There’s a lot of factors that could cause the different feel.
Same board too?
I know some people set up an identical product to check / test things, but being a skateboard there can always be differences, even in how things are wearing, bushings in particular.
That said, being lower and getting to wheelbite faster, I can feel like there is "less turn" on boards I have with forged baseplates, compared to my usual cast standard trucks / baseplates, so I would need to put 1.5 mm risers on to really check if they felt different to me, so they are both the same height.
I haven't looked that closely at or made comparisons, but Meathook most likely has it right there as well.
Yeah the 2 setups I was skating were Girl G008 shapes with Indy 139's. One set standards and the other forged titanium. I used the same Indy replacement bushings tightened down the same number of threads. All things being as equal as possible, I definitely noticed a difference in how they turn. I've read that the forged plates extend the wheelbase a little so I'm thinking that could be the reason?
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So is it just me or do forged Indy's turn different than standards? I know the geometry it supposed to be the same, but I swear the standards just turn better. I was at the park the other day skating 2 different setups, one with forged and the other standards. They had the exact same new bushings and were tightened down the same number of threads. But skating them side by side, I could definitely tell the forged turned more shallow or something? Kind of hard to explain but turning just doesn't feel the same. Anybody else feel this way or is it just my madness?
Expand Quote
They do turn a bit differently but that’s part of the height difference I think. If the trucks were different widths that may have affected how they turn, the stock bushings in one may be taller than the other, etc. There’s a lot of factors that could cause the different feel.
Same board too?
I know some people set up an identical product to check / test things, but being a skateboard there can always be differences, even in how things are wearing, bushings in particular.
That said, being lower and getting to wheelbite faster, I can feel like there is "less turn" on boards I have with forged baseplates, compared to my usual cast standard trucks / baseplates, so I would need to put 1.5 mm risers on to really check if they felt different to me, so they are both the same height.
I haven't looked that closely at or made comparisons, but Meathook most likely has it right there as well.
Yeah the 2 setups I was skating were Girl G008 shapes with Indy 139's. One set standards and the other forged titanium. I used the same Indy replacement bushings tightened down the same number of threads. All things being as equal as possible, I definitely noticed a difference in how they turn. I've read that the forged plates extend the wheelbase a little so I'm thinking that could be the reason?
That’s definitely at least part of it. A smaller wheelbase will be able to turn tighter than a longer wheel base. The height probably plays a part in it as well but I don’t know for sure or the exact specifics that it would affect outside of being able to turn deeper before wheelbite.
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Currently on Aces, but considering Indy standard 169 or 215 for my next setup. I like to ride around 9.0-9.75. Should I size all the way up to 215 or go for the 169s?
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I wonder if time will repeat itself and we get a 53mm standard again cause they figured out how to give it the stage 4/ace turn and less wheelbite
Cause aren’t ace af1 53mm and popular
Re Ace - yes definitely. I can appreciate the trucks from riding a few sets of those too, but my happy place is Indy standards.
Even just the basic / standard Indy in a lower form, similar to the Ace low might work better than something that has all the wizardry and hi tech goings on of the Indy mid. Ace lowered the truck in the baseplate, so still use the same hanger for all. That would seem like a more logical step to take.
Currently on Aces, but considering Indy standard 169 or 215 for my next setup. I like to ride around 9.0-9.75. Should I size all the way up to 215 or go for the 169s?
Although there are people out there who love the 215, I feel like it is just a bit too big for most setups unless you are riding a 10+ sized board and everything I have had them on has been a little over the top, compared to running 169s on almost all of those same boards and feeling like they just worked so much better.
If you are talking shaped boards, most shaped boards might be not as wide over the truck areas, so the 169s will fit really well, especially on 9 to 9.5 but even on something like Krooked Sweatpants at 9.81 or the AH beach bummer which is 10" at the widest point but tapers enough to have 215s stick out a lot.
Best thing to do is measure whatever boards you have there and see how wide they are at the far front and back bolts, cause that is going to be the axle width you are looking at, more so than the total width of the board as per dimensions on paper or online.
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Indys: Wait, don't forged baseplates shorten the WB, not extend it? I've always "felt" standard plates felt a little longer than forged ones, which feel more nimble on top of being lower. Is there any confirmation anywhere on whether they shorten or not?
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Indys: Wait, don't forged baseplates shorten the WB, not extend it? I've always "felt" standard plates felt a little longer than forged ones, which feel more nimble on top of being lower. Is there any confirmation anywhere on whether they shorten or not?
Forged plates extend the wheelbase more than the standards, but not by a huge amount. The first post in the thread linked below has measurements. Some people measured forged as 3.125 some 3.1875 but the standards seem to consistently measure 3 inches.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=108580.0
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Wasn’t a better turning truck one of the reasons they went to 55mm on the stage 11 from 53.5 on the stage 10?
Yeah people wanted the feel of the Stage 7 and 8, more so than the lower Stage 9 and 10, so they went back to 55 mm tall on the Stage 11, with the forged baseplate coming in at 53.5 mm to keep others happy who wanted a lower truck.
Kind of funny cause there was always someone wanting something else, more turn, more height, more clearance, lower height, lower weight, etc.
Expand Quote
Back on topic, you guys think they’ll come out with a stage 1/2/3 remaster like the 4 to compete with the lurpiv/ a bigger 109/smaller 215?
At least everything works really well for now, so I really can't see a whole lot more options, but I don't know what the future holds at all in terms of re releases and other options or variations.
No doubt they will try to come up with something else in light of other trucks or trends, as it all goes.
It really does seem like Stage 11 is Indy’s final form.
Where else could they improve? (Other than manufacturing quality… I just got replacement 144 hollows and the pivot nubs in these also move side to side in the pivot cups. But at least the board goes straight. For now.)
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Wasn’t a better turning truck one of the reasons they went to 55mm on the stage 11 from 53.5 on the stage 10?
Yeah people wanted the feel of the Stage 7 and 8, more so than the lower Stage 9 and 10, so they went back to 55 mm tall on the Stage 11, with the forged baseplate coming in at 53.5 mm to keep others happy who wanted a lower truck.
Kind of funny cause there was always someone wanting something else, more turn, more height, more clearance, lower height, lower weight, etc.
Expand Quote
Back on topic, you guys think they’ll come out with a stage 1/2/3 remaster like the 4 to compete with the lurpiv/ a bigger 109/smaller 215?
At least everything works really well for now, so I really can't see a whole lot more options, but I don't know what the future holds at all in terms of re releases and other options or variations.
No doubt they will try to come up with something else in light of other trucks or trends, as it all goes.
Where else could they improve? (Other than manufacturing quality… I just got replacement 144 hollows and the pivot nubs in these also move side to side in the pivot cups. But at least the board goes straight. For now.)
I think there are probably a number of places where and Indy could lose some weight, but other than that, it has been like 12 years, so it seems like they have settled on the XI as the default iteration of an Independent Truck. It's currently being used by the best skaters in the world in street and transition, and clearly it works for both of the popular types of "trick" skateboarding, so there seems to be little need to change things (especially with the recent offerings of Stage IV). A Stage XII would probably alienate a lot of skaters, and they'd likely have to keep offering the XI, which would cost a fortune in tooling and in SKUs.
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Indys: Wait, don't forged baseplates shorten the WB, not extend it? I've always "felt" standard plates felt a little longer than forged ones, which feel more nimble on top of being lower. Is there any confirmation anywhere on whether they shorten or not?
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=108580.0
Thank you! Appreciate the link to info!
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Wasn’t a better turning truck one of the reasons they went to 55mm on the stage 11 from 53.5 on the stage 10?
Yeah people wanted the feel of the Stage 7 and 8, more so than the lower Stage 9 and 10, so they went back to 55 mm tall on the Stage 11, with the forged baseplate coming in at 53.5 mm to keep others happy who wanted a lower truck.
Kind of funny cause there was always someone wanting something else, more turn, more height, more clearance, lower height, lower weight, etc.
Expand Quote
Back on topic, you guys think they’ll come out with a stage 1/2/3 remaster like the 4 to compete with the lurpiv/ a bigger 109/smaller 215?
At least everything works really well for now, so I really can't see a whole lot more options, but I don't know what the future holds at all in terms of re releases and other options or variations.
No doubt they will try to come up with something else in light of other trucks or trends, as it all goes.
Where else could they improve? (Other than manufacturing quality… I just got replacement 144 hollows and the pivot nubs in these also move side to side in the pivot cups. But at least the board goes straight. For now.)
I think there are probably a number of places where and Indy could lose some weight, but other than that, it has been like 12 years, so it seems like they have settled on the XI as the default iteration of an Independent Truck. It's currently being used by the best skaters in the world in street and transition, and clearly it works for both of the popular types of "trick" skateboarding, so there seems to be little need to change things (especially with the recent offerings of Stage IV). A Stage XII would probably alienate a lot of skaters, and they'd likely have to keep offering the XI, which would cost a fortune in tooling and in SKUs.
I think they should do a bigger 109, now we will have 3 versions of an Indy
The stage 11, the stage 4, and now the T hangar. I really like the T hangar and I love my 109 on my zip zinger but I’m not down to drop a hot bill for a set of lurpiv
But I agree a lighter indy would be the move, and possibly drop to 53mm height like the ace af1 but I think most vert/pool guys will hate it
Gotta also add the extra holes in the baseplates, like 4 holes so wheelbase adjustment is possible but then again the normal person would probably be confused and setup the trucks with one truck in and the other out, like a Chris cole situation(in his setup video he talks about his deck holes are drilled slightly forward 1/4-1/16 of an inch so his tail has a better tipping point) but I’d like to try that without having to drill my deck, but I think I already do that cause I ride my boards backwards(tail as a nose)
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You can’t get around that there is a big metal bumper…..that’s why thunders are so light….its just less truck.
An Indy slim? Slimdys?
I think what they’ve done in the last five years is all the reason we should not be allowed anything new for a long time.
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You can’t get around that there is a big metal bumper…..that’s why thunders are so light….its just less truck.
An Indy slim? Slimdys?
I think what they’ve done in the last five years is all the reason we should not be allowed anything new for a long time.
agree. at a certain point, the truck just isn’t your thing.
am i wrong to notice more and more indys, particularly with the contest youths?
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You can’t get around that there is a big metal bumper…..that’s why thunders are so light….its just less truck.
An Indy slim? Slimdys?
I think what they’ve done in the last five years is all the reason we should not be allowed anything new for a long time.
agree. at a certain point, the truck just isn’t your thing.
am i wrong to notice more and more indys, particularly with the contest youths?
By Jove, the kids are, indeed, alright ;D
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Pretty sure they could lose a little of the yoke meat (like the stage IV) but I'm not sure the weight savings is going to be worth the cost oif what it would take to get there....R&D, etc..
Just think, that retail disaster of a Mindy, and all that money spent (mold for the beefed up hanger...derp...the Shaft nut....derp...granted everyone is using it but Slappy), could have been put into exactly what we're talking about.
I'm back on Standard Hollow plates with Ti hangers and they're light enough.
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How's this for lightening the truck up??
Took me a bit to realise what was going on here, but this guy took out the wings on his Stage IX trucks to make them look more like Ace / older versions.
He left the back heel wing in place for more support, but the other three, as in the other side and both on the front truck are taken down a lot.
The last frame is maybe the best one to see his work.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2l8T6bMLpg/?img_index=3
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Not sure if this has been covered, but has anyone compared heights on Stage 4’s and Stage 11 Standards?
They’re both suppose to be 55mm tall, but Stage 4’s appear to be the same height as Forged Hollows, at 53.5.
I’m comparing brand new ones. I’ve tried multiple one and compared both sides of the axle.
The Stage 4 base plates are obviously thinner than Stage 11’s. Has anyone else talked about this or noticed?
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Not sure if this has been covered, but has anyone compared heights on Stage 4’s and Stage 11 Standards?
They’re both suppose to be 55mm tall, but Stage 4’s appear to be the same height as Forged Hollows, at 53.5.
I’m comparing brand new ones. I’ve tried multiple one and compared both sides of the axle.
The Stage 4 base plates are obviously thinner than Stage 11’s. Has anyone else talked about this or noticed?
The only time I had a look at them in another shop, compared them on the counter top to normal Stage XI trucks, seemed the same height, axle end to axle end from new / unused.
Besides the taller kingpin and different hanger shape, I hadn't noticed anything else about them, as they looked pretty much the same baseplate on the two sets sitting out and we had a pretty good look over them at the time.
That said, I am sure there will be differences, variations and other things people would notice from actually having them, more so than just looking at them once on a counter top.
Interesting if there were some other things to note.
:)
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Not sure if this has been covered, but has anyone compared heights on Stage 4’s and Stage 11 Standards?
They’re both suppose to be 55mm tall, but Stage 4’s appear to be the same height as Forged Hollows, at 53.5.
I’m comparing brand new ones. I’ve tried multiple one and compared both sides of the axle.
The Stage 4 base plates are obviously thinner than Stage 11’s. Has anyone else talked about this or noticed?
The only time I had a look at them in another shop, compared them on the counter top to normal Stage XI trucks, seemed the same height, axle end to axle end from new / unused.
Besides the taller kingpin and different hanger shape, I hadn't noticed anything else about them, as they looked pretty much the same baseplate on the two sets sitting out and we had a pretty good look over them at the time.
That said, I am sure there will be differences, variations and other things people would notice from actually having them, more so than just looking at them once on a counter top.
Interesting if there were some other things to note.
:)
I’m going to compare again. I meant to post something about this a couple weeks ago and forgot. I’ll check again tomorrow and try to get pics and report back. Haha. Thanks for the input!
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How's this for lightening the truck up??
Took me a bit to realise what was going on here, but this guy took out the wings on his Stage IX trucks to make them look more like Ace / older versions.
He left the back heel wing in place for more support, but the other three, as in the other side and both on the front truck are taken down a lot.
The last frame is maybe the best one to see his work.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2l8T6bMLpg/?img_index=3
You know what? I'm gonna say it: that was stupid. They look dumb now. Hard to knock the effort/commitment as I post from a bed while he's doing that hahah
The trucks look like "we have Ace at home" and its this shit from Walmart lol
I'm guessing some structural integrity is compromised (even if only a little), the grind feels slightly different, and the weight to geo/torque is negatively affected now. Seems like the energy dispersion from impact (grinding or other) would weaken with less material to travel through along the hangar. Wonder how many grams were shaved off? Lighter than Thunders? About the same?
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.
How's this for lightening the truck up??
Took me a bit to realise what was going on here, but this guy took out the wings on his Stage IX trucks to make them look more like Ace / older versions.
He left the back heel wing in place for more support, but the other three, as in the other side and both on the front truck are taken down a lot.
The last frame is maybe the best one to see his work.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2l8T6bMLpg/?img_index=3
You know what? I'm gonna say it: that was stupid. They look dumb now. Hard to knock the effort/commitment as I post from a bed while he's doing that hahah
The trucks look like "we have Ace at home" and its this shit from Walmart lol
I'm guessing some structural integrity is compromised (even if only a little), the grind feels slightly different, and the weight to geo/torque is negatively affected now. Seems like the energy dispersion from impact (grinding or other) would weaken with less material to travel through along the hangar. Wonder how many grams were shaved off? Lighter than Thunders? About the same?
I disagree, I think they look sick. But why? They're def going to bend/break.
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So any tips on how I’d go about Frankenstein putting together Indy’s to make the lightest 52mm tall Indy
Sorry if that didn’t make sense
I want a light 52mm Indy because they are the shit
But I skate thunders because the height works for me
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Expand Quote
.
How's this for lightening the truck up??
Took me a bit to realise what was going on here, but this guy took out the wings on his Stage IX trucks to make them look more like Ace / older versions.
He left the back heel wing in place for more support, but the other three, as in the other side and both on the front truck are taken down a lot.
The last frame is maybe the best one to see his work.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2l8T6bMLpg/?img_index=3
You know what? I'm gonna say it: that was stupid. They look dumb now. Hard to knock the effort/commitment as I post from a bed while he's doing that hahah
The trucks look like "we have Ace at home" and its this shit from Walmart lol
I'm guessing some structural integrity is compromised (even if only a little), the grind feels slightly different, and the weight to geo/torque is negatively affected now. Seems like the energy dispersion from impact (grinding or other) would weaken with less material to travel through along the hangar. Wonder how many grams were shaved off? Lighter than Thunders? About the same?
Nah, it's fine - that dude is a kook, and grinding an aluminum truck on an aluminum grinding wheel is idiotic.
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How's this for lightening the truck up??
Took me a bit to realise what was going on here, but this guy took out the wings on his Stage IX trucks to make them look more like Ace / older versions.
He left the back heel wing in place for more support, but the other three, as in the other side and both on the front truck are taken down a lot.
The last frame is maybe the best one to see his work.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2l8T6bMLpg/?img_index=3
You know what? I'm gonna say it: that was stupid. They look dumb now. Hard to knock the effort/commitment as I post from a bed while he's doing that hahah
The trucks look like "we have Ace at home" and its this shit from Walmart lol
I'm guessing some structural integrity is compromised (even if only a little), the grind feels slightly different, and the weight to geo/torque is negatively affected now. Seems like the energy dispersion from impact (grinding or other) would weaken with less material to travel through along the hangar. Wonder how many grams were shaved off? Lighter than Thunders? About the same?
Nah, it's fine - that dude is a kook, and grinding an aluminum truck on an aluminum grinding wheel is idiotic.
The 2.5" hardware and double riser pads didnt give it away first?
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So any tips on how I’d go about Frankenstein putting together Indy’s to make the lightest 52mm tall Indy
Sorry if that didn’t make sense
I want a light 52mm Indy because they are the shit
But I skate thunders because the height works for me
Honestly I don't think there really is any option for that.
The lightest hanger is the ti axle, but that at its lowest on a forged baseplate is 53.5 mm tall.
The lowest truck from current stock is the mid, even hollow, or with forged baseplate on a riser, but they are still not that light.
Cutting down bushings and changing geometry will also lower a truck, but that is usually not ideal for a few reasons.
Older versions of various trucks including the low or the Stage 9 / Stage IX were lower, so one of those hangers on whatever baseplate, usually forged with hollow kingpin, will reduce height and weight, but good luck getting the right size and in quality stock as they don't make them any more.
What width truck do you ride?
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How's this for lightening the truck up??
Took me a bit to realise what was going on here, but this guy took out the wings on his Stage IX trucks to make them look more like Ace / older versions.
He left the back heel wing in place for more support, but the other three, as in the other side and both on the front truck are taken down a lot.
The last frame is maybe the best one to see his work.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2l8T6bMLpg/?img_index=3
You know what? I'm gonna say it: that was stupid. They look dumb now. Hard to knock the effort/commitment as I post from a bed while he's doing that hahah
The trucks look like "we have Ace at home" and its this shit from Walmart lol
I'm guessing some structural integrity is compromised (even if only a little), the grind feels slightly different, and the weight to geo/torque is negatively affected now. Seems like the energy dispersion from impact (grinding or other) would weaken with less material to travel through along the hangar. Wonder how many grams were shaved off? Lighter than Thunders? About the same?
Nah, it's fine - that dude is a kook, and grinding an aluminum truck on an aluminum grinding wheel is idiotic.
The 2.5" hardware and double riser pads didnt give it away first?
I used to follow him, but he's such a kook/shitty attitude MF'r, that I stopped.
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.
How's this for lightening the truck up??
Took me a bit to realise what was going on here, but this guy took out the wings on his Stage IX trucks to make them look more like Ace / older versions.
He left the back heel wing in place for more support, but the other three, as in the other side and both on the front truck are taken down a lot.
The last frame is maybe the best one to see his work.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2l8T6bMLpg/?img_index=3
You know what? I'm gonna say it: that was stupid. They look dumb now. Hard to knock the effort/commitment as I post from a bed while he's doing that hahah
The trucks look like "we have Ace at home" and its this shit from Walmart lol
I'm guessing some structural integrity is compromised (even if only a little), the grind feels slightly different, and the weight to geo/torque is negatively affected now. Seems like the energy dispersion from impact (grinding or other) would weaken with less material to travel through along the hangar. Wonder how many grams were shaved off? Lighter than Thunders? About the same?
Nah, it's fine - that dude is a kook, and grinding an aluminum truck on an aluminum grinding wheel is idiotic.
The 2.5" hardware and double riser pads didnt give it away first?
I used to follow him, but he's such a kook/shitty attitude MF'r, that I stopped.
I know exactly what you mean; I had the same reaction. He runs a semi-popular account dedicated to the most micro-niche interest in the world, but treats it as if he is offering an important service to the world and we all take him for granted. Super weird.
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So any tips on how I’d go about Frankenstein putting together Indy’s to make the lightest 52mm tall Indy
Sorry if that didn’t make sense
I want a light 52mm Indy because they are the shit
But I skate thunders because the height works for me
Honestly I don't think there really is any option for that.
The lightest hanger is the ti axle, but that at its lowest on a forged baseplate is 53.5 mm tall.
The lowest truck from current stock is the mid, even hollow, or with forged baseplate on a riser, but they are still not that light.
Cutting down bushings and changing geometry will also lower a truck, but that is usually not ideal for a few reasons.
Older versions of various trucks including the low or the Stage 9 / Stage IX were lower, so one of those hangers on whatever baseplate, usually forged with hollow kingpin, will reduce height and weight, but good luck getting the right size and in quality stock as they don't make them any more.
What width truck do you ride?
The closest you can get is with a Forged Mindy hollow (50.5mm) with a 1/16th riser = 52mm.
Or, you can just buy some new ultralite royals (note that the standard royals, no hollow BS are as light as a TI indy) and get the height you want with a great turn and no major drawbacks.
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.
How's this for lightening the truck up??
Took me a bit to realise what was going on here, but this guy took out the wings on his Stage IX trucks to make them look more like Ace / older versions.
He left the back heel wing in place for more support, but the other three, as in the other side and both on the front truck are taken down a lot.
The last frame is maybe the best one to see his work.
You know what? I'm gonna say it: that was stupid. They look dumb now. Hard to knock the effort/commitment as I post from a bed while he's doing that hahah
The trucks look like "we have Ace at home" and its this shit from Walmart lol
I'm guessing some structural integrity is compromised (even if only a little), the grind feels slightly different, and the weight to geo/torque is negatively affected now. Seems like the energy dispersion from impact (grinding or other) would weaken with less material to travel through along the hangar. Wonder how many grams were shaved off? Lighter than Thunders? About the same?
Nah, it's fine - that dude is a kook, and grinding an aluminum truck on an aluminum grinding wheel is idiotic.
The 2.5" hardware and double riser pads didnt give it away first?
I used to follow him, but he's such a kook/shitty attitude MF'r, that I stopped.
I know exactly what you mean; I had the same reaction. He runs a semi-popular account dedicated to the most micro-niche interest in the world, but treats it as if he is offering an important service to the world and we all take him for granted. Super weird.
I get the feeling he is posting more mods and different things from others, but gets mad when people keep asking him for more info on the specific mods the others make. Well it is your account you are posting on...
Not a worry to me any which way - I don't usually ask anyone for anything in that regard, but I totally get what you guys are saying too.
Seen some of the comments and it seems like someone didn't take their happy juice that morning.
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HOCKEY X INDY
https://faworldentertainment.com/en-ca/products/hockey-independent-trucks?utm_campaign=2024+Hockey+x+Independent+%2801HPMBCM8ZVZK25AEPW8S7ZX7B%29&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Potential+Purchasers&_kx=ab2_KWrJGKc4SBVo9O0j9pGctRq-BhKdFZlAChErDjg.LV6V6B
(https://faworldentertainment.com/cdn/shop/files/2024_Hockey_Capsule_GraphicDetail_Accessories_IndependentTrucks_Crackle_Detail.png?v=1707930699&width=1080)
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HOCKEY X INDY
https://faworldentertainment.com/en-ca/products/hockey-independent-trucks?utm_campaign=2024+Hockey+x+Independent+%2801HPMBCM8ZVZK25AEPW8S7ZX7B%29&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Potential+Purchasers&_kx=ab2_KWrJGKc4SBVo9O0j9pGctRq-BhKdFZlAChErDjg.LV6V6B
(https://faworldentertainment.com/cdn/shop/files/2024_Hockey_Capsule_GraphicDetail_Accessories_IndependentTrucks_Crackle_Detail.png?v=1707930699&width=1080)
i like that
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HOCKEY X INDY
https://faworldentertainment.com/en-ca/products/hockey-independent-trucks?utm_campaign=2024+Hockey+x+Independent+%2801HPMBCM8ZVZK25AEPW8S7ZX7B%29&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Potential+Purchasers&_kx=ab2_KWrJGKc4SBVo9O0j9pGctRq-BhKdFZlAChErDjg.LV6V6B
(https://faworldentertainment.com/cdn/shop/files/2024_Hockey_Capsule_GraphicDetail_Accessories_IndependentTrucks_Crackle_Detail.png?v=1707930699&width=1080)
(https://imageproxy.ifunny.co/crop:x-20,resize:640x,quality:90x75/images/12b4f48a8a8ec8849bcce1265c06d46c10dfa51a879fd52b467540347d07f250_1.jpg)
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Expand Quote
HOCKEY X INDY
https://faworldentertainment.com/en-ca/products/hockey-independent-trucks?utm_campaign=2024+Hockey+x+Independent+%2801HPMBCM8ZVZK25AEPW8S7ZX7B%29&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Potential+Purchasers&_kx=ab2_KWrJGKc4SBVo9O0j9pGctRq-BhKdFZlAChErDjg.LV6V6B
(https://faworldentertainment.com/cdn/shop/files/2024_Hockey_Capsule_GraphicDetail_Accessories_IndependentTrucks_Crackle_Detail.png?v=1707930699&width=1080)
holy shit
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Those hockey trucks look kinda weird/gross.
They make me feel dirty.
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Those hockey trucks look kinda weird/gross.
They make me feel dirty.
They're fucking stupid, texture and color 🤮; krux design team moved to indy...
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aaaawww man, i thought they looked decent. especially the lil guy in the CrOSs!&$@?$ spot.
end of days for hockey if my old uncool self likes something tho.
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Those Hockey trucks might look better if only the base plate had that textured pattern and the hangar was solid black or solid white with the logo. ORRR only the HOCKEY logo on the hangar was that texture. In theory, I like it. For actual use of my board, I don't think I'd be thrilled
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At a glance I thought it would be more like AVE’s sig truck he had that was matte or had a pewter finish to it.
Print on hangers and all over paint just look bad to me. Like colored grip.
Anodized plates I wish we’d see more of.
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Those Hockey trucks might look better if only the base plate had that textured pattern and the hangar was solid black or solid white with the logo. ORRR only the HOCKEY logo on the hangar was that texture. In theory, I like it. For actual use of my board, I don't think I'd be thrilled
Yea keep the baseplate as is and make the hanger unpolished raw and they would look 1000X better
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Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.
Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.
I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?
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Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.
Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.
I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?
I have a set of 149 standards, newish - guessing less than a year old anyway, but at least one truck, maybe both have axle slip too.
Quite surprising really, as I can't recall the last set of trucks that had any issues, certainly nothing this decade I think.
Maybe these ones hit something hard enough that it shook the axle loose in the hanger or else they were just a little issue, minimal compared to other things, or at least all the other current trucks that have no issues at all like that.
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Expand Quote
Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.
Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.
I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?
I have a set of 149 standards, newish - guessing less than a year old anyway, but at least one truck, maybe both have axle slip too.
Quite surprising really, as I can't recall the last set of trucks that had any issues, certainly nothing this decade I think.
Maybe these ones hit something hard enough that it shook the axle loose in the hanger or else they were just a little issue, minimal compared to other things, or at least all the other current trucks that have no issues at all like that.
Dang, that's frustrating.
I thought they had pretty much gotten rid of axel slip aside from the odd case here and there.
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I love my indy hollows, as I said, very good compromise for all boards, but once again, big problem with the back truck which unscrews naturally over time.. As you can see in the photo, the bolt of the back truck is much higher and less tight than the nose one.. I had this problem with the original bushings, and it was worse because after a while my truck was no longer even tight and it was like daewon song truck, I even had the truck disassembled by itself during a session.. I even had trouble finding my bolt which landed in the grass.. ;D , that's why I changed to bones bushings, It seemed to me that things were getting better, and I seem to have the same problem starting again..And yet, if I tighten the back truck to the same level as the front truck, it's much tighter than the front.. See what I mean ? Unfortunately, I don't know if my next trucks will be indy , I have never had this kind of problem with other brands.. Is this a defect in your opinion of the kingpin ?
The back truck :
(https://i.ibb.co/10F6MSB/IMG-7934.jpg) (https://ibb.co/10F6MSB)
The front truck :
(https://i.ibb.co/c6g75Mp/IMG-7933.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c6g75Mp)
I guess I would look at that and get that kingpin nut down so at least all threads engage, so the top of the nut is at least the same level as the kingpin itself, but that is just me. I don't like kingpin sticking up above the nut ever, but in some situations the opposite is going to cause more problems and people I know have had to keep stopping to tighten the kingpin nut multiple times every session.
With some bushings or arrangements, people can't get the trucks loose enough with having the kingpin nut down lower, so you either change out the kingpin nut, tighten it down some more or figure out a different way to sort out the trucks. Maybe even try those Bones bushings without the metal washer until they squash down a bit or loosen up, but even that can sometimes cause more problems.
Might sound a bit blunt, but not meaning to be - just one of those things, but at least that is how I see it.
Good luck with whatever you try.
* On any other normal bushings, you can trim down the top bushing, shave it, cut it, rub it down on grip tape or whatever works to get it down a mm and then you have no issues getting the kingpin nut on all the way. That is what I have done with a lot of sets of trucks to make things work for lighter people who need more turn, without having to buy new bushings, or to get the kingpin nut down lower and give more kingpin clearance at the same time.
Paging doctor @Mbrimson88
I can’t find it… can you please remind me what size a nut has to be to replace the kingpin nut on an Indy? I have both trucks’ nuts coming lose in sessions. My trucks are tightened to the level of that picture with the lower nut, where the top of nut is flush with top of kingpin. Looks like front truck above. So I have faulty nuts or something. (Brand new 144 hollows from NHS direct as a warranty replacement three months ago)
I really miss Indy’s not having issues like this. Or I’m just wasn’t paying attention as much back in the day.
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Paging doctor @Mbrimson88
I can’t find it… can you please remind me what size a nut has to be to replace the kingpin nut on an Indy? I have both trucks’ nuts coming lose in sessions. My trucks are tightened to the level of that picture with the lower nut, where the top of nut is flush with top of kingpin. Looks like front truck above. So I have faulty nuts or something. (Brand new 144 hollows from NHS direct as a warranty replacement three months ago)
I really miss Indy’s not having issues like this. Or I’m just wasn’t paying attention as much back in the day.
The skate hardware nuts are as follows:
3/16" UNF 24 for deck bolts
5/16" UNF 24 for axle nuts *
3/8" UND 24 for kingpin nuts *
* The jam or low profile is what we have standard for skateboard trucks - axles and kingpins, not the standard height. Deck bolts can be the low profile or the standard height, depending on what you prefer.
Also make sure the nuts have nyloc on them too, otherwise they will not stay put.
Good skate shops should always have a spare parts category including nuts (as well as axle washers, bushing washers and other assorted things, but surprisingly quite a lot do not.
Some hardware suppliers have all of these, some have none, but many of the bigger wholesalers have them in boxes of 100 or 200, which are available on ebay as well, so for the average user, one box should last a long, long time, most between about $10 to $20 from what I have seen.
For the boxes I bought to use in the shop, I can go through a box of axle nuts in a few months, but they still last ages, whereas a box of kingpin nuts will last a long time.
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Expand Quote
Paging doctor @Mbrimson88
I can’t find it… can you please remind me what size a nut has to be to replace the kingpin nut on an Indy? I have both trucks’ nuts coming lose in sessions. My trucks are tightened to the level of that picture with the lower nut, where the top of nut is flush with top of kingpin. Looks like front truck above. So I have faulty nuts or something. (Brand new 144 hollows from NHS direct as a warranty replacement three months ago)
I really miss Indy’s not having issues like this. Or I’m just wasn’t paying attention as much back in the day.
The skate hardware nuts are as follows:
3/16" UNF 24 for deck bolts
5/16" UNF 24 for axle nuts *
3/8" UND 24 for kingpin nuts *
* The jam or low profile is what we have standard for skateboard trucks - axles and kingpins, not the standard height. Deck bolts can be the low profile or the standard height, depending on what you prefer.
Also make sure the nuts have nyloc on them too, otherwise they will not stay put.
Good skate shops should always have a spare parts category including nuts (as well as axle washers, bushing washers and other assorted things, but surprisingly quite a lot do not.
Some hardware suppliers have all of these, some have none, but many of the bigger wholesalers have them in boxes of 100 or 200, which are available on ebay as well, so for the average user, one box should last a long, long time, most between about $10 to $20 from what I have seen.
For the boxes I bought to use in the shop, I can go through a box of axle nuts in a few months, but they still last ages, whereas a box of kingpin nuts will last a long time.
Annnnnnnnnd bookmarked.
Thank you, Sir.
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Expand Quote
I love my indy hollows, as I said, very good compromise for all boards, but once again, big problem with the back truck which unscrews naturally over time.. As you can see in the photo, the bolt of the back truck is much higher and less tight than the nose one.. I had this problem with the original bushings, and it was worse because after a while my truck was no longer even tight and it was like daewon song truck, I even had the truck disassembled by itself during a session.. I even had trouble finding my bolt which landed in the grass.. ;D , that's why I changed to bones bushings, It seemed to me that things were getting better, and I seem to have the same problem starting again..And yet, if I tighten the back truck to the same level as the front truck, it's much tighter than the front.. See what I mean ? Unfortunately, I don't know if my next trucks will be indy , I have never had this kind of problem with other brands.. Is this a defect in your opinion of the kingpin ?
The back truck :
(https://i.ibb.co/10F6MSB/IMG-7934.jpg) (https://ibb.co/10F6MSB)
The front truck :
(https://i.ibb.co/c6g75Mp/IMG-7933.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c6g75Mp)
Expand Quote
I guess I would look at that and get that kingpin nut down so at least all threads engage, so the top of the nut is at least the same level as the kingpin itself, but that is just me. I don't like kingpin sticking up above the nut ever, but in some situations the opposite is going to cause more problems and people I know have had to keep stopping to tighten the kingpin nut multiple times every session.
With some bushings or arrangements, people can't get the trucks loose enough with having the kingpin nut down lower, so you either change out the kingpin nut, tighten it down some more or figure out a different way to sort out the trucks. Maybe even try those Bones bushings without the metal washer until they squash down a bit or loosen up, but even that can sometimes cause more problems.
Might sound a bit blunt, but not meaning to be - just one of those things, but at least that is how I see it.
Good luck with whatever you try.
* On any other normal bushings, you can trim down the top bushing, shave it, cut it, rub it down on grip tape or whatever works to get it down a mm and then you have no issues getting the kingpin nut on all the way. That is what I have done with a lot of sets of trucks to make things work for lighter people who need more turn, without having to buy new bushings, or to get the kingpin nut down lower and give more kingpin clearance at the same time.
Paging doctor @Mbrimson88
I can’t find it… can you please remind me what size a nut has to be to replace the kingpin nut on an Indy? I have both trucks’ nuts coming lose in sessions. My trucks are tightened to the level of that picture with the lower nut, where the top of nut is flush with top of kingpin. Looks like front truck above. So I have faulty nuts or something. (Brand new 144 hollows from NHS direct as a warranty replacement three months ago)
I really miss Indy’s not having issues like this. Or I’m just wasn’t paying attention as much back in the day.
You may want to shave 1/16” of the top bushing if the new nuts don’t help. A friend had the same issue with his, pretty sure that’s what solved it.
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I swapped some old nuts in hoping they’ll stick. Also using older bushings that are worn in a bit more. Fingers crossed.
And spray painted the bases while the truck was apart :P
(https://i.ibb.co/M6dZB5v/IMG-5029.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M6dZB5v)
(https://i.ibb.co/s3qsFvv/IMG-5024.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s3qsFvv)
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You may want to shave 1/16” of the top bushing if the new nuts don’t help. A friend had the same issue with his, pretty sure that’s what solved it.
Yes, I definitely take a bit off the top bushing, which keeps geometry as it should be with the bottom bushing being the right height, just lower the top a little.
Some people cut it, others machine it down or even just sand it off on griptape (watch those fingers) but any which way, it works well to get the nut down a little lower.
I swapped some old nuts in hoping they’ll stick. Also using older bushings that are worn in a bit more. Fingers crossed.
And spray painted the bases while the truck was apart :P
Ha yeah, fun at its finest!
Also funny as I have blue blaseplates and red baseplates I don't want, some I even sprayed black, but I am sure someone will be keen sooner or later for a bit of a change from plain polished trucks.
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Expand Quote
You may want to shave 1/16” of the top bushing if the new nuts don’t help. A friend had the same issue with his, pretty sure that’s what solved it.
Yes, I definitely take a bit off the top bushing, which keeps geometry as it should be with the bottom bushing being the right height, just lower the top a little.
Some people cut it, others machine it down or even just sand it off on griptape (watch those fingers) but any which way, it works well to get the nut down a little lower.
Expand Quote
I swapped some old nuts in hoping they’ll stick. Also using older bushings that are worn in a bit more. Fingers crossed.
And spray painted the bases while the truck was apart :P
Ha yeah, fun at its finest!
Also funny as I have blue blaseplates and red baseplates I don't want, some I even sprayed black, but I am sure someone will be keen sooner or later for a bit of a change from plain polished trucks.
Speaking of coloured baseplates, how would one go about removing the anodized finish on my forged baseplates?
I have the green Tony Hawk ones, but the green doesn’t go too well with every color deck.
Did look hella fresh on my Creature though.
(https://i.ibb.co/sKSz5Cx/IMG-0976.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sKSz5Cx)
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Speaking of coloured baseplates, how would one go about removing the anodized finish on my forged baseplates?
I have the green Tony Hawk ones, but the green doesn’t go too well with every color deck.
Did look hella fresh on my Creature though.
I think you might be stuck wtih that colour - compared to starting out plain metal or even just simply painted, anodized metal takes a whole lot longer to try to get that coloured layer off. You might be better just spray painting over them, than trying to get them back to silver.
Painting them might not work quite so well either, but it is easier than anything else.
People have used citri strip to remove the paint from other trucks really well, but you would have to check with whoever / hardware shop or manufacturer to see if that would take the anodized coating off.
Google:
What is the process of anodizing?
Anodising is an electrolytic process for producing thick oxide coatings, usually on aluminium and its alloys. The oxide layer is typically 5 to 25 μm in thickness and is used to give improved surface resistance to wear and corrosion, or as a decorative layer.
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I swapped in old bushings and old forged baseplate to the current direct from NHS 144 hollows from three months ago.
The bushings were from a pair of titanium trucks from three years ago and the forged baseplates from those too: have made these current hollows hangar turn more like Indy’s I live and used to.
The bushings and baseplate from the 144 Hollows I got direct from NHS three ish months ago, were all creaky and hard. They went through the soft initial stage, and then tightened up to where the are now.
It’s puzzling, but whatever… got some normal performing Indy’s now.
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I swapped in old bushings and old forged baseplate to the current direct from NHS 144 hollows from three months ago.
The bushings were from a pair of titanium trucks from three years ago and the forged baseplates from those too: have made these current hollows hangar turn more like Indy’s I live and used to.
The bushings and baseplate from the 144 Hollows I got direct from NHS three ish months ago, were all creaky and hard. They went through the soft initial stage, and then tightened up to where the are now.
It’s puzzling, but whatever… got some normal performing Indy’s now.
Yeah it is a funny one, some bushings and parts just work really well together, others not so well.
Been mixing and matching with a few setups, getting the 8.75 board dialled in and tried hollow hangers on the standard plates, which does work well, but I changed in a few sets of bushings, cause no matter what I tried, something was squeaking, then something else was creaking.
Checking and cleaning bushings, rubbing down all surfaces, wax some surfaces when things felt stiff, which then turned into a feeling like I had no bushings at all for a minute - thinking "What have I done" then cleaned them off, creaking returned, tried something else, gave up, left the board for a day or two, came back, skated it with no noise at all, next day creaking again...
Funny old thing, but I guess some bushings do just have different properties. Even some of these ones I have are so much darker in colour, some very cloudy or almost murky orange, compared to the semi translucent orange of brand new ones.
Were all the ones you used the newer ones with rings on the inside of them, or older ones with the flat poured bubble look to the face of them?
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Expand Quote
I swapped in old bushings and old forged baseplate to the current direct from NHS 144 hollows from three months ago.
The bushings were from a pair of titanium trucks from three years ago and the forged baseplates from those too: have made these current hollows hangar turn more like Indy’s I live and used to.
The bushings and baseplate from the 144 Hollows I got direct from NHS three ish months ago, were all creaky and hard. They went through the soft initial stage, and then tightened up to where the are now.
It’s puzzling, but whatever… got some normal performing Indy’s now.
Yeah it is a funny one, some bushings and parts just work really well together, others not so well.
Been mixing and matching with a few setups, getting the 8.75 board dialled in and tried hollow hangers on the standard plates, which does work well, but I changed in a few sets of bushings, cause no matter what I tried, something was squeaking, then something else was creaking.
Checking and cleaning bushings, rubbing down all surfaces, wax some surfaces when things felt stiff, which then turned into a feeling like I had no bushings at all for a minute - thinking "What have I done" then cleaned them off, creaking returned, tried something else, gave up, left the board for a day or two, came back, skated it with no noise at all, next day creaking again...
Funny old thing, but I guess some bushings do just have different properties. Even some of these ones I have are so much darker in colour, some very cloudy or almost murky orange, compared to the semi translucent orange of brand new ones.
Were all the ones you used the newer ones with rings on the inside of them, or older ones with the flat poured bubble look to the face of them?
Do you mean the rings on the bottom? If so they all have rings on the bottom.
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Expand Quote
Speaking of coloured baseplates, how would one go about removing the anodized finish on my forged baseplates?
I have the green Tony Hawk ones, but the green doesn’t go too well with every color deck.
Did look hella fresh on my Creature though.
I think you might be stuck wtih that colour - compared to starting out plain metal or even just simply painted, anodized metal takes a whole lot longer to try to get that coloured layer off. You might be better just spray painting over them, than trying to get them back to silver.
Painting them might not work quite so well either, but it is easier than anything else.
People have used citri strip to remove the paint from other trucks really well, but you would have to check with whoever / hardware shop or manufacturer to see if that would take the anodized coating off.
Google:
What is the process of anodizing?
Anodising is an electrolytic process for producing thick oxide coatings, usually on aluminium and its alloys. The oxide layer is typically 5 to 25 μm in thickness and is used to give improved surface resistance to wear and corrosion, or as a decorative layer.
Turns out drain cleaner with potassium hydroxide and/or sodium hydroxide can actually take it right off.
This is literally two minutes of rubbing with a q tip.
(https://i.ibb.co/HH129hW/IMG-3700.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HH129hW)(https://i.ibb.co/pb6dTyT/IMG-3702.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pb6dTyT)
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Oven cleaner works really well, in my experience.
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Is true that the problem with inverted kingpins is that the nuts are always getting loose??
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Funny old thing, but I guess some bushings do just have different properties. Even some of these ones I have are so much darker in colour, some very cloudy or almost murky orange, compared to the semi translucent orange of brand new ones.
Were all the ones you used the newer ones with rings on the inside of them, or older ones with the flat poured bubble look to the face of them?
I've been experiencing these inconsistencies between two sets of new (rings) bushings too. Was not as obvious as with old vs. new, but one pair before current I could never get the bushings work like I wished, had to take bushings from my old trucks. On the other hand, current pair worked almost out of the box, after a one break-in session.
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I know no one asked, but here’s the results:
(https://i.ibb.co/fCDVzC7/IMG-3703.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fCDVzC7)
A little rough around the king pin mound. I should’ve filled the drain cleaner up so that I covered more area.
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Is true that the problem with inverted kingpins is that the nuts are always getting loose??
Not been a problem for me. Only used Indys IKPs though
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I know no one asked, but here’s the results:
(https://i.ibb.co/fCDVzC7/IMG-3703.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fCDVzC7)
A little rough around the king pin mound. I should’ve filled the drain cleaner up so that I covered more area.
Noice.
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Expand Quote
Is true that the problem with inverted kingpins is that the nuts are always getting loose??
Some people don't seem to have any problems at all with any inverted kingpin assembly, but most people who have run inverted kingpins for a while find sooner or later they have issues.
Others often find that the whole nut assembly in the baseplate gets loose, so not so much the nut itself, but the mounting around it ovals out, so the kingpin moves side to side, almost to the point of it feeling like bushings are not doing their job or the pivot cup is blown out, which in both cases it was not, on the set I had a roll on.
The solid and heavy landings in various tricks, be it crooks or whatever can cause more side to side pressure which then causes the kingpin to move a lot more than a fixed kingpin in a regular truck, so once it starts to move a bit, even slightly, then every hard landing to one side or other makes the kingpin move back and forth side to side, in the same way that deck bolts that are loose will oval out deck bolt holes in truck baseplates, which I think a lot more people have seen over any given period of time.
I found that when the kingpin was in fully, up to the last thread so it could not go any further, it seemed to hold a lot better, but some others were running the kingpin barely in, which didn't lock into the nut in the baseplate in the same way that a regular kingpin nut sits only half on and then loosens by itself.
Also consider how often some people swap out their kingpin nuts like it is nothing. You can't do this on an inverted kingpin nut which is fixed into the baseplate, so when the nyloc starts to go, they have to use some locking product (like glue) or find some other way to keep the kingpin from moving in the baseplate nut.
Expand Quote
Funny old thing, but I guess some bushings do just have different properties. Even some of these ones I have are so much darker in colour, some very cloudy or almost murky orange, compared to the semi translucent orange of brand new ones.
Were all the ones you used the newer ones with rings on the inside of them, or older ones with the flat poured bubble look to the face of them?
I've been experiencing these inconsistencies between two sets of new (rings) bushings too. Was not as obvious as with old vs. new, but one pair before current I could never get the bushings work like I wished, had to take bushings from my old trucks. On the other hand, current pair worked almost out of the box, after a one break-in session.
Yeah I recall you asking or getting frustrated with bushings before. It is a funny thing, but who knows if it is certain compounds, or other factors that contribute to things working or not working with any given products.
I still find that a lot of people swap out stock bushings, no matter what trucks, so I do end up with a lot more unused or very lightly used stock bushings than I can ever find uses for, but it helps when someone comes back cause they have blown something out so I can easily just put in some others for them, or at least help them with used / spare parts I have round the place.
I can be such a stickler for trying to make some things work too - thinking "I can fix this somehow" but some things, I should just give up on and leave them, more than mess with them until they just drive me nuts, but in saying that, more often than not, I can usually find a way to fix something or at least make it work, which is better than just throwing the things out.
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I know no one asked, but here’s the results:
(https://i.ibb.co/fCDVzC7/IMG-3703.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fCDVzC7)
A little rough around the king pin mound. I should’ve filled the drain cleaner up so that I covered more area.
Yeah for sure!!!
Always good to post something, especially if you have found something works, so others can do the same if or when needed.
Often I look at certain colourways of things and think "That looks cool for a minute" but more often than not I will always go back to something plain, simple, remove graphics from boards, wheels or change things out to not have to worry about certain colours or textures or whatever.
The simple life is easier for me in that regard.
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I can be such a stickler for trying to make some things work too - thinking "I can fix this somehow" but some things, I should just give up on and leave them, more than mess with them until they just drive me nuts, but in saying that, more often than not, I can usually find a way to fix something or at least make it work, which is better than just throwing the things out.
I'm trying to learn out of this habit, as I don't have lot of time to skate, leave alone tinker with my setup. Apparently leaving some stuff on shelf and "re-finding" them months later helps, I guess it resets the itch of gear functioning "wrong" for you.
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Is true that the problem with inverted kingpins is that the nuts are always getting loose??
Some people don't seem to have any problems at all with any inverted kingpin assembly, but most people who have run inverted kingpins for a while find sooner or later they have issues.
Others often find that the whole nut assembly in the baseplate gets loose, so not so much the nut itself, but the mounting around it ovals out, so the kingpin moves side to side, almost to the point of it feeling like bushings are not doing their job or the pivot cup is blown out, which in both cases it was not, on the set I had a roll on.
The solid and heavy landings in various tricks, be it crooks or whatever can cause more side to side pressure which then causes the kingpin to move a lot more than a fixed kingpin in a regular truck, so once it starts to move a bit, even slightly, then every hard landing to one side or other makes the kingpin move back and forth side to side, in the same way that deck bolts that are loose will oval out deck bolt holes in truck baseplates, which I think a lot more people have seen over any given period of time.
I found that when the kingpin was in fully, up to the last thread so it could not go any further, it seemed to hold a lot better, but some others were running the kingpin barely in, which didn't lock into the nut in the baseplate in the same way that a regular kingpin nut sits only half on and then loosens by itself.
Also consider how often some people swap out their kingpin nuts like it is nothing. You can't do this on an inverted kingpin nut which is fixed into the baseplate, so when the nyloc starts to go, they have to use some locking product (like glue) or find some other way to keep the kingpin from moving in the baseplate nut.
Thank you for your reply!
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I cleaned my bearings to day and noticed my trucks are pretty bent. They are forged hollows. I don't skate high impact, a three stair is the gnarliest drop they have ever seen. I am not heavy either... Is that a known thing on the hollows?
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I cleaned my bearings to day and noticed my trucks are pretty bent. They are forged hollows. I don't skate high impact, a three stair is the gnarliest drop they have ever seen. I am not heavy either... Is that a known thing on the hollows?
I can't recall ever hearing or seeing anything specific, but someone else I know has bent every single set of trucks, brands including Indy, Thunder, Venture in standard and hollow and even ti axles, not excessive heavy landings, so who knows with regard to quality of materials or other factors.
If they are still fairly clean looking, eg not worn down to axles, or within acceptable timeframes, you could hit up the NHS warranty department and put in a polite enquiry, or check with the shop you got them from, otherwise I will usually hammer them flat again and keep skating, on any I have had come through my hands that for whatever reason were not under warranty.
They might bend back again soon enough, but at least for now they are good and work without coning the wheels in weird ways.
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Can you put an Indy forged hollow kingpin/baseplate onto and Indy mid hanger and still have clearance ?
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Can you put an Indy forged hollow kingpin/baseplate onto and Indy mid hanger and still have clearance ?
There is not much, when I did the mix and match thing, just to see if or what worked or didn't work.
The comparison is about 2 - 3 mm taller kingpin, so much like the older stage Indy trucks with very little kingpin clearance to begin with and none whatsoever once you do a few grinds.
People have put mid hangers on other baseplates, when the inverted kingpin blew out and their mid hanger was still almost new looking, but I would be getting an angle grinder to that kingpin and maybe even cutting down the top bushing, unless you can find some low tops to put on those trucks.
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Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.
Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.
I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?
I rode some Indy 144 titaniums for about a year. Some day I realized, I had axle slip on both sides and my wheels always got tight. A few days later the damn axle broke on my front truck and sent me flying. I was so pissed, I took the trucks off and threw them in a bin, didn't even think about taking a photo. Now I am on Thunder 148 Hollow Lights with Indy bushings.
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Oven cleaner works really well, in my experience.
Yes, I read that too while scouring through the internet.
Noice.
I think it’s kind of a neat hack to have on hand.
Yeah for sure!!!
Always good to post something, especially if you have found something works, so others can do the same if or when needed.
Often I look at certain colourways of things and think "That looks cool for a minute" but more often than not I will always go back to something plain, simple, remove graphics from boards, wheels or change things out to not have to worry about certain colours or textures or whatever.
The simple life is easier for me in that regard.
The sheer contrast of having the green baseplates on the background of the antihero orange eagle, just did not look very appealing. I think I’m much more into plain trucks and white wheels, as it’s so much easier to set up something and then later have second thoughts and do a rearrangement of parts.
Either this or just buy everything in black. Black wheels black trucks, and super black graphics. But that would probably get meh pretty quick.
I hope someone else finds this “hack” here useful somewhere down the road.
Also, it’s not like you can leave them in there unsupervised. Just a quick steep, maybe a minute or two and a scrub. Wear gloves for the love - if not for god, then just for your skin.
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Also in my experience wear eye protection.
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Also in my experience wear eye protection.
Yeh, cause drain ain’t nothing to fuck around and find out with. :)
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Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.
Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.
I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?
I rode some Indy 144 titaniums for about a year. Some day I realized, I had axle slip on both sides and my wheels always got tight. A few days later the damn axle broke on my front truck and sent me flying. I was so pissed, I took the trucks off and threw them in a bin, didn't even think about taking a photo. Now I am on Thunder 148 Hollow Lights with Indy bushings.
So the axle just snapped off? Is that something that just happens with titanium axles? In all the years I've skated, I've never snapped a solid steel axle.
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Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.
Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.
I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?
I rode some Indy 144 titaniums for about a year. Some day I realized, I had axle slip on both sides and my wheels always got tight. A few days later the damn axle broke on my front truck and sent me flying. I was so pissed, I took the trucks off and threw them in a bin, didn't even think about taking a photo. Now I am on Thunder 148 Hollow Lights with Indy bushings.
So the axle just snapped off? Is that something that just happens with titanium axles? In all the years I've skated, I've never snapped a solid steel axle.
Yeah man, the axle snapped off. Right behind the end of the hanger. I've seen 3 or 4 bent axles and at least 2 pairs of broken axles in my friend group. It's not like we are out there hucking the biggest gaps or something. And I only ever saw it on Titanium Indy's for some reason. It can happen but I still think that those things are kinda rare.
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I haven't skated for 1 week, and I went back into truck madness (my current setup is 8.125 sk8 mafia, 31.4 and 14.25 wb with Indy forged hollows 139) I looked a little on the internet for reviews on trucks that tempted me, i had in mind to go back to lower trucks, but also another brand, telling myself that it would surely be better for certain or certain things, as I had been doing for 5 years and spending my money sometimes for nothing.
I skated today, and there is no other complaint than these indy forged hollows are a cure for me from madness. I find that it complements everything, perfect height, perfect weight. Every time I go back into the madness having an idea to buy other trucks or something, these indy really cure me ahah In July it will be a year since I had them, and to tell you, honestly (Oh my god, I'm afraid I look like a crazy person ;D), for 5 years because in my madness I had never kept trucks for a year.. Thank you kindly Ben Degros also for influencing me on this madness ahah
There's nothing to say... Maybe I found the perfect trucks ?
(I spoke above about the kingpin bolt which unscrews itself, I found the solution, I tightened the trucks much tighter, and put wax on the hangar to avoid having a too tight. The problem is gone ! Maybe I should have done that from the start, I think my trucks weren't tight enough but that's because I hated the squeaking and stiffness from the start.)
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I haven't skated for 1 week, and I went back into truck madness (my current setup is 8.125 sk8 mafia, 31.4 and 14.25 wb with Indy forged hollows 139) I looked a little on the internet for reviews on trucks that tempted me, i had in mind to go back to lower trucks, but also another brand, telling myself that it would surely be better for certain or certain things, as I had been doing for 5 years and spending my money sometimes for nothing.
I skated today, and there is no other complaint than these indy forged hollows are a cure for me from madness. I find that it complements everything, perfect height, perfect weight. Every time I go back into the madness having an idea to buy other trucks or something, these indy really cure me ahah In July it will be a year since I had them, and to tell you, honestly (Oh my god, I'm afraid I look like a crazy person ;D), for 5 years because in my madness I had never kept trucks for a year.. Thank you kindly Ben Degros also for influencing me on this madness ahah
There's nothing to say... Maybe I found the perfect trucks ?
(I spoke above about the kingpin bolt which unscrews itself, I found the solution, I tightened the trucks much tighter, and put wax on the hangar to avoid having a too tight. The problem is gone ! Maybe I should have done that from the start, I think my trucks weren't tight enough but that's because I hated the squeaking and stiffness from the start.)
I've learned better than to say this out loud lol.
But I hope you have!
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Speaking of madness… I’m tired of the damned “clicking” from the washer knocking back and forth when I turn.
(https://i.ibb.co/C6wVTR4/IMG-5133.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C6wVTR4)
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Speaking of madness… I’m tired of the damned “clicking” from the washer knocking back and forth when I turn.
Is it the bottom one or the top one clicking for you (or both) at different times?
More often I feel like it is the top one on the nut, as the threaded part of the kingpin causes more movement than the lower solid part, but I have heard of both doing it.
Someone else on here used that sort of product on the nut to washer top as well, which I think worked but I didn't hear anything more about it.
Curious to hear how it goes.
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Speaking of madness… I’m tired of the damned “clicking” from the washer knocking back and forth when I turn.
Is it the bottom one or the top one clicking for you (or both) at different times?
More often I feel like it is the top one on the nut, as the threaded part of the kingpin causes more movement than the lower solid part, but I have heard of both doing it.
Someone else on here used that sort of product on the nut to washer top as well, which I think worked but I didn't hear anything more about it.
Curious to hear how it goes.
Will def check back in to let you know how it goes :)
If the clicking is still there then it certainly is the top washer and at that point, I’ll try a thin nylon washer that I got from hardware store.
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Took the plunge and riding some 149 TI (earlier production with the logo on baseplate) after riding Ventures for 2 years.
Gear madness took over and I wanted to try something different for a bit.
Still getting used to the carve and swerve, these trucks slide fast and grind smooth. Let's see how they fare at the slappy session tomorrow.
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So what’s up with the Indy Mids? I’ve only been riding Ace Classic in recent years and I don’t really need new trucks but a shop is selling Mindies for 70% off and I could see myself getting some 159s for a cruiser setup or something. But I can’t recall anyone really praising them in the past?
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So what’s up with the Indy Mids? I’ve only been riding Ace Classic in recent years and I don’t really need new trucks but a shop is selling Mindies for 70% off and I could see myself getting some 159s for a cruiser setup or something. But I can’t recall anyone really praising them in the past?
The kingpin clearance is kinda bad on those. And I recall hearing a lot of people saying that the nut became loose after a few sessions. What’s nice about the Mindies is the height. But 70% off sounds good to be honest. Maybe you can improve those trucks somehow with a regular kingpin?
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So what’s up with the Indy Mids? I’ve only been riding Ace Classic in recent years and I don’t really need new trucks but a shop is selling Mindies for 70% off and I could see myself getting some 159s for a cruiser setup or something. But I can’t recall anyone really praising them in the past?
The kingpin clearance is kinda bad on those. And I recall hearing a lot of people saying that the nut became loose after a few sessions. What’s nice about the Mindies is the height. But 70% off sounds good to be honest. Maybe you can improve those trucks somehow with a regular kingpin?
Thanks. It really sounds like a great deal, but since I don’t actually need them maybe they will make some other skater happier.
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Mindys popularity tanked after the initial launch, the Tiago Mindy has been deadstock for a lot of online retailers. You can get a pair of the Forged Hollow Mindy for $43.90 off the NHS website which is on par with a Thunder / Venture / Indy Standard.
https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks?variant=41990083674269
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So what’s up with the Indy Mids? I’ve only been riding Ace Classic in recent years and I don’t really need new trucks but a shop is selling Mindies for 70% off and I could see myself getting some 159s for a cruiser setup or something. But I can’t recall anyone really praising them in the past?
The kingpin clearance is kinda bad on those. And I recall hearing a lot of people saying that the nut became loose after a few sessions. What’s nice about the Mindies is the height. But 70% off sounds good to be honest. Maybe you can improve those trucks somehow with a regular kingpin?
Yeah, pretty much as people have said, the product seemed good, but then more often than not people just couldn't ride them for various reasons, least of which was they were heavier than any other truck on the market, the clearance and height were average at best and lastly the inverted kingpin arrangement ended up with its very own category on the NHS Warranty page, so they definitely knew there was a significant issue with them, even though at first shops and distros didn't want to hear it.
Basically, as per any inverted kingpin setup, sooner or later with enough force the kingpin causes the baseplate and nut to move side to side, widening out the hole and making them unsafe. Having the kingpin down fully into the baseplate as far as it would go did help with clearance and prevent it moving a little, but for those people who were really smashing them, they didn't last very well at all. Others have no issues and they are still going strong, but I think those people have not given them half as much of a beating as some other people.
From that, there is a stupid amount of stock still out there, so shops and distros are trying to clear it out, with some really good deals on if you look or find them.
Are they worth it? Sure, if you are aware of the issues and know what to do if you do have problems, otherwise for a set of trucks you can put risers under and use as a cruiser or even more just a go easy type setup, people shouldn't have any problems at all. They are still the same geometry so will skate well, just a bit heavier and lower, so smaller wheels, or risers and all is well.
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I like MIndy baseplate more because i feel like ypu can get those much looser than regular ones. I like my front truck to rattle and i cant really get regular ones to that without massive bushing fuckery.
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I'm sure this has been discussed a dozen times in the past 70 pages so I apologize in advanced, but what do you guys do about Indy bushings? I bought those Justin Henry trucks last year and am just getting around to skating them here recently and man the bushing are awful. I've got a handful of sessions in on them now to the point that I'd expect they'd be broken in but they seem to get stuck when I lean one way or the other and just feel generally bad.
Do I just need to break them in more or do you guys swap them out with something softer or what? I ride my trucks a little on the looser side. Primarily rode Thunders growing up and always loved them but had trouble with cracking hangers but I'm tempted to switch back.
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I'm sure this has been discussed a dozen times in the past 70 pages so I apologize in advanced, but what do you guys do about Indy bushings? I bought those Justin Henry trucks last year and am just getting around to skating them here recently and man the bushing are awful. I've got a handful of sessions in on them now to the point that I'd expect they'd be broken in but they seem to get stuck when I lean one way or the other and just feel generally bad.
Do I just need to break them in more or do you guys swap them out with something softer or what? I ride my trucks a little on the looser side. Primarily rode Thunders growing up and always loved them but had trouble with cracking hangers but I'm tempted to switch back.
Well… complain mostly.
But consider getting an aftermarket Indy bushing that is a different hardness so the nut can be tightened down enough to be flush with the top of kingpin, and still have the loose turn. So either the red or white.
There’s also Bones bushing that works well installed properly with the washer instead of the standard washers from the Indy truck. They blow out quicker. But they immediately feel good.
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I'm sure this has been discussed a dozen times in the past 70 pages so I apologize in advanced, but what do you guys do about Indy bushings? I bought those Justin Henry trucks last year and am just getting around to skating them here recently and man the bushing are awful. I've got a handful of sessions in on them now to the point that I'd expect they'd be broken in but they seem to get stuck when I lean one way or the other and just feel generally bad.
Do I just need to break them in more or do you guys swap them out with something softer or what? I ride my trucks a little on the looser side. Primarily rode Thunders growing up and always loved them but had trouble with cracking hangers but I'm tempted to switch back.
Current stock Indy bushings are okay for many, but for others like yourself, they feel like shit.
Aftermarket Indy bushings (dumb, they should just come with these instead of the duds from the factory) of all duros feel better and break in far easier/faster.
Depending on how loose/tight you want, look for the color/duro that matches your preference and then from there, pick Conical or Barrel. If you want looser but don't wanna tighten the nut too hard, 92, 94, or 96 can work well. If you go conical, even better turning/rebound compared to barrel.
TL;DR - Aftermarket Indy Bushings in the 90 or 92 are probably your best bet. Indy's conical shape is closer to Thunder bushings that you're used to.
www.nhsskatedirect.com/collections/independent-trucks-cushions
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Speaking of madness… I’m tired of the damned “clicking” from the washer knocking back and forth when I turn.
Is it the bottom one or the top one clicking for you (or both) at different times?
More often I feel like it is the top one on the nut, as the threaded part of the kingpin causes more movement than the lower solid part, but I have heard of both doing it.
Someone else on here used that sort of product on the nut to washer top as well, which I think worked but I didn't hear anything more about it.
Curious to hear how it goes.
If the clicking is still there then it certainly is the top washer and at that point, I’ll try a thin nylon washer that I got from hardware store.
Had a little seshy.
No clicking. Hooray! 8) (just some squeaking from one bushing.)
The top washer for sure has potential to click… if that starts happening I’m using the JB Weld between the nut and the top washer.
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Speaking of madness… I’m tired of the damned “clicking” from the washer knocking back and forth when I turn.
Is it the bottom one or the top one clicking for you (or both) at different times?
More often I feel like it is the top one on the nut, as the threaded part of the kingpin causes more movement than the lower solid part, but I have heard of both doing it.
Someone else on here used that sort of product on the nut to washer top as well, which I think worked but I didn't hear anything more about it.
Curious to hear how it goes.
If the clicking is still there then it certainly is the top washer and at that point, I’ll try a thin nylon washer that I got from hardware store.
No clicking. Hooray! 8) (just some squeaking from one bushing.)
The top washer for sure has potential to click… if that starts happening I’m using the JB Weld between the nut and the top washer.
Nice!
The most weird thing with bushings doing that is even down to one small turn of the kingpin, so tightening more often than loosening often causes it to bind and more pressure makes it click more often.
That is why sometimes only newer trucks seem to do it, or if you change settings (move the kingpin nut) after how ever long of no clicking, then suddenly it clicks again, or so people have said, which I have also noticed on some occasions.
Putting wax or similar anything on the bushings or inside washers can make everything very mushy or loose feeling, but it also stops clicking too. Sometimes it is not a good trade off though.
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Speaking of madness… I’m tired of the damned “clicking” from the washer knocking back and forth when I turn.
Is it the bottom one or the top one clicking for you (or both) at different times?
More often I feel like it is the top one on the nut, as the threaded part of the kingpin causes more movement than the lower solid part, but I have heard of both doing it.
Someone else on here used that sort of product on the nut to washer top as well, which I think worked but I didn't hear anything more about it.
Curious to hear how it goes.
If the clicking is still there then it certainly is the top washer and at that point, I’ll try a thin nylon washer that I got from hardware store.
No clicking. Hooray! 8) (just some squeaking from one bushing.)
The top washer for sure has potential to click… if that starts happening I’m using the JB Weld between the nut and the top washer.
Nice!
The most weird thing with bushings doing that is even down to one small turn of the kingpin, so tightening more often than loosening often causes it to bind and more pressure makes it click more often.
That is why sometimes only newer trucks seem to do it, or if you change settings (move the kingpin nut) after how ever long of no clicking, then suddenly it clicks again, or so people have said, which I have also noticed on some occasions.
Putting wax or similar anything on the bushings or inside washers can make everything very mushy or loose feeling, but it also stops clicking too. Sometimes it is not a good trade off though.
Truth. When I loosened the trucks up to what they are like brand new (washer one or two mils above the kingpin) there wasn’t much clicking.
And when I tried the black bushings with that new truck alignment, they were just TOO stiff, but no clicking!
I wonder why older Indy’s never had this clicking problem.
*I once added thin nylon washers to top and bottom to eliminate the friction between metal and metal… it changes the truck geometry that 1mm of lift (top doesn’t matter only bottom) so the perfectionist in me doesn’t like to do that…
It would be a perfect solution to eliminate the clicking, if there existed a sub-mm nylon washer. I’m taking half a mm or less. Paper thin.
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Can anyone confirm how much Indy Mid Hollow Forged pushes out the WB?
Indy Mid / Standard - 3"
Indy Forged - 3.15"
Indy Mid Hollow Forged - ?
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Anyone who's skated anything from 8.25-9" trucks tried 215's? I'm considering trying some but idk if it's gonna feel super weird with all the hanger space on curbs/coping. Or maybe it will feel amazing?
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Anyone who's skated anything from 8.25-9" trucks tried 215's? I'm considering trying some but idk if it's gonna feel super weird with all the hanger space on curbs/coping. Or maybe it will feel amazing?
Takes a minute to get used to but once you do it’s great. Normally on a 9 w/159s but got a few 10+ decks and run 215s w/o issues.
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Do stage 5 independent fit modern boards? Asking for a friend.
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Do stage 5 independent fit modern boards? Asking for a friend.
Base plate hole pattern is different. Bigger distance between front and back holes. Would need to drill holes into the deck or change the baseplate.
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For reference, outer front holes are oldschool pattern, inner fit current decks:
(https://www.longboarderlabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Baseplate-6-hole-3.jpg)
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Damn, ok thanks appreciate it
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Do stage 5 independent fit modern boards? Asking for a friend.
Base plate hole pattern is different. Bigger distance between front and back holes. Would need to drill holes into the deck or change the baseplate.
Or drill out the baseplates, which most people did back then when they had older trucks.
I tried it recently on a set of Ventures, just to change the position of them and I was surprised how easy it was to drill out, a decent 5 mm metal bit got the job done in no time. Just go easy on them and make sure you have the positioning right.
This is a lot easier to do once - two holes in each truck baseplate, than drilling out each and every board you put them on, although some people might find it safer to drill out boards, than trucks.
Just an option anyway.
* This was why the baseplates had to change, post from Kristian Svitak showing redrilled old Indy baseplate from the early 90s when nose slides and variations of krooked grinds became the main trick people did, which then made the industry in general change the position of their bolt holes permanently, but as some boards still had the old and some had the new, the six hole baseplate was a common thing through the 90s and even some brands still use it to this day, eg Indy with their wider trucks to fit on old school boards.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CztO3I1uZb9/
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Anyone who's skated anything from 8.25-9" trucks tried 215's? I'm considering trying some but idk if it's gonna feel super weird with all the hanger space on curbs/coping. Or maybe it will feel amazing?
Takes a minute to get used to but once you do it’s great. Normally on a 9 w/159s but got a few 10+ decks and run 215s w/o issues.
Thanks man. I pulled the trigger, fuck it. Now I need to find a needle in a haystack board that's as symmetrical as possible with a short wheelbase. So far seems like heroin eggs are my only option.
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Ive been riding indy forged hollows for a while now, and more recently Ive noticed the axle thread goes from zero to stripped super fast. Its annoying the fuck out of me for the last two sets had one where even with a re threader, I still couldnt get the nut on and the other had the wheel stuck on it.
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I put three washers on so the nut takes the most beating and my axles stay pretty good for the life of the truck
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I put three washers on so the nut takes the most beating and my axles stay pretty good for the life of the truck
I've been doing the same thing for years and can't go back. A lot of spots I skate are really crusty and it definitely helps keeps the axles from getting chewed up too soon.
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Well… complain mostly.
But consider getting an aftermarket Indy bushing that is a different hardness so the nut can be tightened down enough to be flush with the top of kingpin, and still have the loose turn. So either the red or white.
There’s also Bones bushing that works well installed properly with the washer instead of the standard washers from the Indy truck. They blow out quicker. But they immediately feel good.
Current stock Indy bushings are okay for many, but for others like yourself, they feel like shit.
Aftermarket Indy bushings (dumb, they should just come with these instead of the duds from the factory) of all duros feel better and break in far easier/faster.
Depending on how loose/tight you want, look for the color/duro that matches your preference and then from there, pick Conical or Barrel. If you want looser but don't wanna tighten the nut too hard, 92, 94, or 96 can work well. If you go conical, even better turning/rebound compared to barrel.
TL;DR - Aftermarket Indy Bushings in the 90 or 92 are probably your best bet. Indy's conical shape is closer to Thunder bushings that you're used to.
www.nhsskatedirect.com/collections/independent-trucks-cushions
Thanks fellas, appreciate it. Got a new set of bushings ordered.
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Well… complain mostly.
But consider getting an aftermarket Indy bushing that is a different hardness so the nut can be tightened down enough to be flush with the top of kingpin, and still have the loose turn. So either the red or white.
There’s also Bones bushing that works well installed properly with the washer instead of the standard washers from the Indy truck. They blow out quicker. But they immediately feel good.
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Current stock Indy bushings are okay for many, but for others like yourself, they feel like shit.
Aftermarket Indy bushings (dumb, they should just come with these instead of the duds from the factory) of all duros feel better and break in far easier/faster.
Depending on how loose/tight you want, look for the color/duro that matches your preference and then from there, pick Conical or Barrel. If you want looser but don't wanna tighten the nut too hard, 92, 94, or 96 can work well. If you go conical, even better turning/rebound compared to barrel.
TL;DR - Aftermarket Indy Bushings in the 90 or 92 are probably your best bet. Indy's conical shape is closer to Thunder bushings that you're used to.
www.nhsskatedirect.com/collections/independent-trucks-cushions
Thanks fellas, appreciate it. Got a new set of bushings ordered.
Just set up a new set of Indy, left them stock for three sessions, bushings were just so damn soft and squishy / mushy, took them off and cleaned everything off, as there seemed to be some coating on the truck hanger itself, now feeling way more normal and not at all squishy.
Never had / seen that before, or at least not to that extent, but that could have something to do with it too, as I tried the swap and change between two other sets on boards that work well, so the new bushings worked on those trucks, but any bushings I put in this new set were so squishy.
Granted not everyone has the luxury of trying a whole lot of different things right there, but this is about the most variance I have ever seen with stock Indy trucks.
I usually swap in the Indy aftermarket 92 duro bushings and have no issues with them, just gentle first couple of sessions and then they are fine for the life of the trucks, but I have been trying the stock bushings a little more of late, just to see if they are worth keeping.
Overall I think it really comes down to whether or not the stock duro feels comfortable, but the aftermarket Indy bushings have always been a good go to - never personally had any issues with them, although some people who didn't go easy on them first have split or had damage to them from going too hard too soon.
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Well… complain mostly.
But consider getting an aftermarket Indy bushing that is a different hardness so the nut can be tightened down enough to be flush with the top of kingpin, and still have the loose turn. So either the red or white.
There’s also Bones bushing that works well installed properly with the washer instead of the standard washers from the Indy truck. They blow out quicker. But they immediately feel good.
Expand Quote
Current stock Indy bushings are okay for many, but for others like yourself, they feel like shit.
Aftermarket Indy bushings (dumb, they should just come with these instead of the duds from the factory) of all duros feel better and break in far easier/faster.
Depending on how loose/tight you want, look for the color/duro that matches your preference and then from there, pick Conical or Barrel. If you want looser but don't wanna tighten the nut too hard, 92, 94, or 96 can work well. If you go conical, even better turning/rebound compared to barrel.
TL;DR - Aftermarket Indy Bushings in the 90 or 92 are probably your best bet. Indy's conical shape is closer to Thunder bushings that you're used to.
www.nhsskatedirect.com/collections/independent-trucks-cushions
Thanks fellas, appreciate it. Got a new set of bushings ordered.
Just set up a new set of Indy, left them stock for three sessions, bushings were just so damn soft and squishy / mushy, took them off and cleaned everything off, as there seemed to be some coating on the truck hanger itself, now feeling way more normal and not at all squishy.
Never had / seen that before, or at least not to that extent, but that could have something to do with it too, as I tried the swap and change between two other sets on boards that work well, so the new bushings worked on those trucks, but any bushings I put in this new set were so squishy.
Granted not everyone has the luxury of trying a whole lot of different things right there, but this is about the most variance I have ever seen with stock Indy trucks.
I usually swap in the Indy aftermarket 92 duro bushings and have no issues with them, just gentle first couple of sessions and then they are fine for the life of the trucks, but I have been trying the stock bushings a little more of late, just to see if they are worth keeping.
Overall I think it really comes down to whether or not the stock duro feels comfortable, but the aftermarket Indy bushings have always been a good go to - never personally had any issues with them, although some people who didn't go easy on them first have split or had damage to them from going too hard too soon.
Stock Indy bushings are actually pretty good now. Back in the day they were terrible and would crack super easy if you didn't break them in first. The newer aftermarket Indy bushings are really nice too. I'm liking the Black 94a in my standard Indy's and the Blue 92a in my standard Ventures. The washers that come with them are terrible and don't even fit the barrel bushing correctly though. IDK why NHS can't just include the same washers that actually come with the trucks because those are perfect.
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Stock Indy bushings are actually pretty good now. Back in the day they were terrible and would crack super easy if you didn't break them in first. The newer aftermarket Indy bushings are really nice too. I'm liking the Black 94a in my standard Indy's and the Blue 92a in my standard Ventures. The washers that come with them are terrible and don't even fit the barrel bushing correctly though. IDK why NHS can't just include the same washers that actually come with the trucks because those are perfect.
Stock bottom washers don't fit in the plastic aftermarket bushing containers either, so that shows the difference in width right there.
More often than not I take off the bottom edge of the bushings so they fit a little better in those aftermarket washers, but I also run the bushings with both sets of rings towards the hanger, if that makes sense, so they do fit just a little better than having the side with the rings facing down towards the washer for the bottom bushing.
I think those black ones are also a different fit too, as others have said before, so when I went and checked, sure enough they didn't fit as well - sit taller and a touch wider, for whatever reason.
I usually just use the conical bushings in my trucks, but I have tried to keep both the conical and cylinder in every option in the shop and have messed around with sets just to see how they all perform and what works best, as well as others I skate with always using them - the blue, black, yellow as well as the white and red, but not many people ever swap in the aftermarket orange. I guess they are a whole lot better now, as you said too.
The stock set I had drama with are fine and working well in a board I have for my mini ramp, but I usually ride a little stiffer elsewhere - skateparks or spots.
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Stock Indy bushings are actually pretty good now. Back in the day they were terrible and would crack super easy if you didn't break them in first. The newer aftermarket Indy bushings are really nice too. I'm liking the Black 94a in my standard Indy's and the Blue 92a in my standard Ventures. The washers that come with them are terrible and don't even fit the barrel bushing correctly though. IDK why NHS can't just include the same washers that actually come with the trucks because those are perfect.
Stock bottom washers don't fit in the plastic aftermarket bushing containers either, so that shows the difference in width right there.
More often than not I take off the bottom edge of the bushings so they fit a little better in those aftermarket washers, but I also run the bushings with both sets of rings towards the hanger, if that makes sense, so they do fit just a little better than having the side with the rings facing down towards the washer for the bottom bushing.
I think those black ones are also a different fit too, as others have said before, so when I went and checked, sure enough they didn't fit as well - sit taller and a touch wider, for whatever reason.
I usually just use the conical bushings in my trucks, but I have tried to keep both the conical and cylinder in every option in the shop and have messed around with sets just to see how they all perform and what works best, as well as others I skate with always using them - the blue, black, yellow as well as the white and red, but not many people ever swap in the aftermarket orange. I guess they are a whole lot better now, as you said too.
The stock set I had drama with are fine and working well in a board I have for my mini ramp, but I usually ride a little stiffer elsewhere - skateparks or spots.
I totally get what you mean about the direction of the bushings. I always put the rounded smooth side against the boardside washer because I feel like it fits into the cup better that way. As far as the Black 94a aftermarket bushings, I didn't realize they were a different size. I thought they made the geometry feel slightly different, but I just chalked it up to my madness haha! When I get home from work tonight, I've got some bushing inspections to do ;D
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In a nutshell, what are the caveats for riding Indy Mids? I've never owned a truck with an inverted kingpin. I've understood some people absolutely hate them – what are the possible reasons for this?
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In a nutshell, what are the caveats for riding Indy Mids? I've never owned a truck with an inverted kingpin. I've understood some people absolutely hate them – what are the possible reasons for this?
The mids have these different features:
- they are heavier than any other truck on the market (for the standard mids anyway)
- they are 52mm tall, or 50.5 with forged baseplates
- the inverted kingpin comes loose the way any nyloc stops working after a while, some sooner than others, maybe depending on how much you mess with your kingpin over time, but people also say that it loosens off itself, more often if you don't have it tightened right down as far as it can go
- the inverted kingpin catches on grinds for some people, even with whatever clearance it is supposed to have
- the inverted kingpin arrangement can come loose, in that the kingpin can widen out the baseplate hole and move side to side for some people, which makes the turn and feel of the trucks a lot more wobbly feeling
- the inverted kingpin itself only has limited threads, which for some people don't go down far enough into the baseplate
- NHS warranty have a specific category for "Indy mid kingpin / baseplate issue" so it is not a single thing here or there
As far as the truck itself, some people really like them, but others seem to have had nothing but trouble with them, so make of that what you will. The inverted baseplate has been added to standard truck lines now too, even with all the known issues, but it has a lot more kingpin clearance than usual / standard arrangements so some people would like it more for that.
I have had quite a few sets come through my hands, some of which I still have on boards with no issues, but others have been returned for warranty issues, or some people who have had them have just given to others just to get rid of them.
That might sum it up well enough for now anyway.
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In a nutshell, what are the caveats for riding Indy Mids? I've never owned a truck with an inverted kingpin. I've understood some people absolutely hate them – what are the possible reasons for this?
The mids have these different features:
- they are heavier than any other truck on the market (for the standard mids anyway)
- they are 52mm tall, or 50.5 with forged baseplates
- the inverted kingpin comes loose the way any nyloc stops working after a while, some sooner than others, maybe depending on how much you mess with your kingpin over time, but people also say that it loosens off itself, more often if you don't have it tightened right down as far as it can go
- the inverted kingpin catches on grinds for some people, even with whatever clearance it is supposed to have
- the inverted kingpin arrangement can come loose, in that the kingpin can widen out the baseplate hole and move side to side for some people, which makes the turn and feel of the trucks a lot more wobbly feeling
- the inverted kingpin itself only has limited threads, which for some people don't go down far enough into the baseplate
- NHS warranty have a specific category for "Indy mid kingpin / baseplate issue" so it is not a single thing here or there
As far as the truck itself, some people really like them, but others seem to have had nothing but trouble with them, so make of that what you will. The inverted baseplate has been added to standard truck lines now too, even with all the known issues, but it has a lot more kingpin clearance than usual / standard arrangements so some people would like it more for that.
I have had quite a few sets come through my hands, some of which I still have on boards with no issues, but others have been returned for warranty issues, or some people who have had them have just given to others just to get rid of them.
That might sum it up well enough for now anyway.
Thank you, a great summary. I'll know to steer away from them based on this. Not that I was seriously contemplating getting them anyway.
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After those axles slipped on my 149 ti's I went back to some thunder standard 149s, and would you believe it, those axles slipped a week later.
Never slipped an axel before in my 24 years skateboarding (or at least I never noticed it), and it just happened twice in like a month. So weird.
I bought some 149 forged hollows, hopefully that axel stays put!
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After those axles slipped on my 149 ti's I went back to some thunder standard 149s, and would you believe it, those axles slipped a week later.
Never slipped an axel before in my 24 years skateboarding (or at least I never noticed it), and it just happened twice in like a month. So weird.
I bought some 149 forged hollows, hopefully that axel stays put!
Dumb question, but what exactly is a slipped axle?
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After those axles slipped on my 149 ti's I went back to some thunder standard 149s, and would you believe it, those axles slipped a week later.
Never slipped an axel before in my 24 years skateboarding (or at least I never noticed it), and it just happened twice in like a month. So weird.
I bought some 149 forged hollows, hopefully that axel stays put!
Check to make sure your axle nut nyocks aren't worn out/replace your axle nuts before writing modern trucks off as 'slipped axles'.
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After those axles slipped on my 149 ti's I went back to some thunder standard 149s, and would you believe it, those axles slipped a week later.
Never slipped an axel before in my 24 years skateboarding (or at least I never noticed it), and it just happened twice in like a month. So weird.
I bought some 149 forged hollows, hopefully that axel stays put!
Dumb question, but what exactly is a slipped axle?
When the axel rod in your hanger becomes loose, causing it to shift from side to side. Usually just a little at first, but it worsens over time.
Check to make sure your axle nut nyocks aren't worn out/replace your axle nuts before writing modern trucks off as 'slipped axles'.
When you have one wheel tighten on its own and tapping the opposite end of the axel on the ground causes the overtightened wheel to spin freely again, I assure you the issue is not with the nylock.
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It’s been brought up before but during Covid some of the QC went down. At least on your thunders, try and warranty them….DLX is pretty good usually.
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Still wondering how in the hell you guys manage to break Indys. Pretty much only truck company that i've yet to encounter any problems
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Still wondering how in the hell you guys manage to break Indys. Pretty much only truck company that i've yet to encounter any problems
I feel like the axel slip thing is just bad luck.
Indys are def the most durable truck from my experiences.
This is the first time I've ever had any issue with an Indy that wasn't preference related like changing bushings/pivot cups.
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Still wondering how in the hell you guys manage to break Indys. Pretty much only truck company that i've yet to encounter any problems
I feel like the axel slip thing is just bad luck.
Indys are def the most durable truck from my experiences.
This is the first time I've ever had any issue with an Indy that wasn't preference related like changing bushings/pivot cups.
I think working in a shop environment for 20+ years, I have probably seen almost every brand or every product with issues, be it manufacturing fault, random break, user error or even malicious intent to make it look like something happened in order to get a new set of trucks, but any which way, the majority of all products will work and hold up fine for the user with the intended purpose.
More than anything, I find that some things can be put down to specific situations, but other things are so random it just doesn't make sense, or it is hard to believe that some trucks break through certain areas more than others.
Running a board at full speed into a curb can break the hanger at the pivot point - seen a guy push it in a rage once with that exact result.
Getting run over by a car can cause baseplate or hanger to crack or break entirely, usually very easy to see and notice, but sometimes a little harder to work out if there is not that much damage.
Other things can be a bit more random, but it still happens - axles snap, or move causing axle slip, as per a few trucks I have seen more recently too. Not a lot of other issues from Indy but I am sure things happen at times. I guess most of the time not a whole lot of people see or hear about it, unless someone posts it on here or into other groups or online, etc.
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Given the amount of abuse trucks get in skateboarding in general, I'm actually amazed people don't have more problems with their trucks. Screw a few axle slips which are amplified by places like Slap and kudos to the gods of engineering skills.
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Given the amount of abuse trucks get in skateboarding in general, I'm actually amazed people don't have more problems with their trucks. Screw a few axle slips which are amplified by places like Slap and kudos to the gods of engineering skills.
Yea I'm definitely not trying to overblow the issue or anything. I know how easy it is for people to get whipped into a frenzy on here. Like I said, this is the first time in 24+ years this has happened to me.
Which is really why I posted about it, I was genuinely surprised. I doubt it is the new norm or anything.
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Yeah, I don’t think axels slip as much as they used to I have an old set from the 80’s, stage 5s that I’ll skate sometimes. Doing next to nothing the kingpin snapped….i forgot how common that used to be.
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Yeah, I don’t think axels slip as much as they used to I have an old set from the 80’s, stage 5s that I’ll skate sometimes. Doing next to nothing the kingpin snapped….i forgot how common that used to be.
No doubt, trucks have def come a long way since then.
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Still wondering how in the hell you guys manage to break Indys. Pretty much only truck company that i've yet to encounter any problems
I feel like the axel slip thing is just bad luck.
Indys are def the most durable truck from my experiences.
This is the first time I've ever had any issue with an Indy that wasn't preference related like changing bushings/pivot cups.
I think working in a shop environment for 20+ years, I have probably seen almost every brand or every product with issues, be it manufacturing fault, random break, user error or even malicious intent to make it look like something happened in order to get a new set of trucks, but any which way, the majority of all products will work and hold up fine for the user with the intended purpose.
More than anything, I find that some things can be put down to specific situations, but other things are so random it just doesn't make sense, or it is hard to believe that some trucks break through certain areas more than others.
Running a board at full speed into a curb can break the hanger at the pivot point - seen a guy push it in a rage once with that exact result.
Getting run over by a car can cause baseplate or hanger to crack or break entirely, usually very easy to see and notice, but sometimes a little harder to work out if there is not that much damage.
Other things can be a bit more random, but it still happens - axles snap, or move causing axle slip, as per a few trucks I have seen more recently too. Not a lot of other issues from Indy but I am sure things happen at times. I guess most of the time not a whole lot of people see or hear about it, unless someone posts it on here or into other groups or online, etc.
Mm, mm, yes, yes…. indeed.
I would like to add that cars running over decks can break them sometimes. That should be added to the list.
;D
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Given the amount of abuse trucks get in skateboarding in general, I'm actually amazed people don't have more problems with their trucks. Screw a few axle slips which are amplified by places like Slap and kudos to the gods of engineering skills.
Yea I'm definitely not trying to overblow the issue or anything. I know how easy it is for people to get whipped into a frenzy on here. Like I said, this is the first time in 24+ years this has happened to me.
Which is really why I posted about it, I was genuinely surprised. I doubt it is the new norm or anything.
Yeah, respect, my post wasn't intended at you, sorry if i came off that way. Axle slips can happen and they do suck.
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I’ve been playing with fire lately with how loose my 149s are. The kingpin nut is barely hanging by a thread and I know it’s going to fall off when I least expect it.
If watching Ben DeGros videos has taught me anything, it’s that I understand how trucks work through feel but definitely not through engineering. I’ve never shaved down bushings before, and was wondering if anyone knows which one - top or bottom barrel - would be smarter to shave down in order to allow for more nut security (heh) but without sacrificing turnability.
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I’ve been playing with fire lately with how loose my 149s are. The kingpin nut is barely hanging by a thread and I know it’s going to fall off when I least expect it.
If watching Ben DeGros videos has taught me anything, it’s that I understand how trucks work through feel but definitely not through engineering. I’ve never shaved down bushings before, and was wondering if anyone knows which one - top or bottom barrel - would be smarter to shave down in order to allow for more nut security (heh) but without sacrificing turnability.
I think probably top.
Unless I'm wrong I think fucking with the bottom bushing will change the angle of your hangar and/or if still loose enough the hangar can pop up and down out of the baseplate
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Just got a set of 144 Standards and the pivot cups are super loose and jiggly. I thought that was only an issue on the forged plates. I put the hangers on a set of old USA made plates and they're totally solid. Bums me out to see QC going down the drain like this on Indy's.
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Just got a set of 144 Standards and the pivot cups are super loose and jiggly. I thought that was only an issue on the forged plates. I put the hangers on a set of old USA made plates and they're totally solid. Bums me out to see QC going down the drain like this on Indy's.
I had a wiggly pivot point of the hangar inside the pivot cup of a set of Hollows from a shop earlier this year (brand new stock fresh from DLX). Bummed me out, too.
It also made my board go way crooked unless I pushed it back the other way before going. I could also feel it go not-straight when pushing off.
I took photos of how far it moved side to side in the pivot cup and wrote NHS warranty and asked if this normal and to be expected on trucks these days because I had NEVER had that problem with Indy’s in the last 25 years of skating them.
They asked me to ship them back and then they wrote me a week or two later and said that the pivot point of the hangar was milled too much and was not within tolerances.
They sent me a brand new pair.
I was out trucks for those 2-3 weeks so I had to use old trucks, but I got by.
I think if you present photo evidence and phrase it as a question and whether the wiggly truck is to be expected quality going forward (not in a dick way, just in a way of “is this something I should get used to”?) and you haven’t made a lot of warranty claims with them and don’t appear you’re just mooching, NHS should be understanding and work with you.
Good luck :P
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I’ve been playing with fire lately with how loose my 149s are. The kingpin nut is barely hanging by a thread and I know it’s going to fall off when I least expect it.
If watching Ben DeGros videos has taught me anything, it’s that I understand how trucks work through feel but definitely not through engineering. I’ve never shaved down bushings before, and was wondering if anyone knows which one - top or bottom barrel - would be smarter to shave down in order to allow for more nut security (heh) but without sacrificing turnability.
Unless I'm wrong I think fucking with the bottom bushing will change the angle of your hangar and/or if still loose enough the hangar can pop up and down out of the baseplate
Yep, top for sure.
Shaving the bottom will change your geometry like salto said.
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Yeah top cut down. I’ve run the top at 3/16” tall w/o the pivot popping out. If you go that loose be aware that it will oval the hell out the hole(that kingpin goes through) on the hanger.
You can run tops on top and bottom(I do) and it will bring in your wheelbase a little but I ride f/h so it brings it about to standard w/b with those.
Dumb question, but have you tried running a conical bottom yet? You’ll get a better turn than with a barrel.
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I’ve been playing with fire lately with how loose my 149s are. The kingpin nut is barely hanging by a thread and I know it’s going to fall off when I least expect it.
If watching Ben DeGros videos has taught me anything, it’s that I understand how trucks work through feel but definitely not through engineering. I’ve never shaved down bushings before, and was wondering if anyone knows which one - top or bottom barrel - would be smarter to shave down in order to allow for more nut security (heh) but without sacrificing turnability.
As others have said, that is how I have done it a lot in the past and it has worked as intended, but I will say I have cut bushings too much or messed some up in trial and error there too.
Before I get too deep in that, what is your current setup, eg stock bushings? Changed bushings to anything else, or tried anything else, like softer bushings at all?
I usually go with old red 92 duro low tops in a conical shape (not cylinder) but have also run just the normal blue conical shape bushings in 92 as well, which gives me a little more stiffness while being able to run them with a whole lot more turn than what any other options can, but as much as this sounds like opposites, this is my thinking.
When I tried softer bushings, they were way too mushy all round, so didn't actually give me back the control and turn that I needed. In trying harder bushings, until they really wore in they were way too tight and I just couldn't skate how I usually would, so in trying to figure out the best overall option, trimming down the top bushing a bit, or then buying the aftermarket low heads when they came out, seemed to work best.
I still use the regular bushing washers, but some people will use flat washers to get more turn, especially the top. I also tried trimming in the bottom bushing, so keeping it at the same height, but cutting the bottom sides off it from cylinder to a more conical shape, which also works very well in giving less resistance so you have a lot more turn. Then trimming down the bottom of the top bushing by a mm or so, or rounding it off some from the top - sanding, or grip tape works well enough too, which then allows the kingpin nut to go on further, both reducing kingpin issues and increasing clearance.
* Edit:
There could almost be too much info here, but having the kingpin nut barely on is just not an option. I used to skate with a guy who would finger tighten his kingpin on after every run, but if he skated too long in each run, there would be a chance he would have the kingpin fall off, which it did on occasion, sometimes causing him to eat it, which I thought was pretty easy to fix, but that is the way he did it.
Another guy would put the kingpin nut on upside down just engaging the first couple of threads with nyloc - yes it will go on if you force it - and then grind off the area sticking up, but again that is not such a good way to run it and it was still prone to catching, with minimal clearance on normal height bushings.
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.
Without wanting to sound too repetitive, here are a couple of posts, the first one from a long time ago, the second one from not too long ago, both messing with bushings, but also showing the low head options, and reshaping the cylinders, etc.
Second one pics are a bit blurry (sorry) but you probably get the point anyway.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BpGf4tGlRyf/
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2yiZwYJIGU/
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I wish I had such good ankle control that I felt limited in turn by standard Indy bushings and needed to trim things down AND run conicals.
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I’ve been playing with fire lately with how loose my 149s are. The kingpin nut is barely hanging by a thread and I know it’s going to fall off when I least expect it.
If watching Ben DeGros videos has taught me anything, it’s that I understand how trucks work through feel but definitely not through engineering. I’ve never shaved down bushings before, and was wondering if anyone knows which one - top or bottom barrel - would be smarter to shave down in order to allow for more nut security (heh) but without sacrificing turnability.
As others have said, that is how I have done it a lot in the past and it has worked as intended, but I will say I have cut bushings too much or messed some up in trial and error there too.
Before I get too deep in that, what is your current setup, eg stock bushings? Changed bushings to anything else, or tried anything else, like softer bushings at all?
I usually go with old red 92 duro low tops in a conical shape (not cylinder) but have also run just the normal blue conical shape bushings in 92 as well, which gives me a little more stiffness while being able to run them with a whole lot more turn than what any other options can, but as much as this sounds like opposites, this is my thinking.
When I tried softer bushings, they were way too mushy all round, so didn't actually give me back the control and turn that I needed. In trying harder bushings, until they really wore in they were way too tight and I just couldn't skate how I usually would, so in trying to figure out the best overall option, trimming down the top bushing a bit, or then buying the aftermarket low heads when they came out, seemed to work best.
I still use the regular bushing washers, but some people will use flat washers to get more turn, especially the top. I also tried trimming in the bottom bushing, so keeping it at the same height, but cutting the bottom sides off it from cylinder to a more conical shape, which also works very well in giving less resistance so you have a lot more turn. Then trimming down the bottom of the top bushing by a mm or so, or rounding it off some from the top - sanding, or grip tape works well enough too, which then allows the kingpin nut to go on further, both reducing kingpin issues and increasing clearance.
* Edit:
There could almost be too much info here, but having the kingpin nut barely on is just not an option. I used to skate with a guy who would finger tighten his kingpin on after every run, but if he skated too long in each run, there would be a chance he would have the kingpin fall off, which it did on occasion, sometimes causing him to eat it, which I thought was pretty easy to fix, but that is the way he did it.
Another guy would put the kingpin nut on upside down just engaging the first couple of threads with nyloc - yes it will go on if you force it - and then grind off the area sticking up, but again that is not such a good way to run it and it was still prone to catching, with minimal clearance on normal height bushings.
Good advice re using a flat top washer to loosen things up - this is what I do. You can also use a flat bottom washer to make things extra loose while still using the same bushing size and duro. The more cupped either washer is, the more restricted the bushing is in the bushing seat and the more energy/rebound is produced. Less rebound = looser trucks. I play around with different washer shapes and depths. RipTide has flat top and bottom washers as well as very cupped and restricting washers. It's surprising to see how much washer shapes make in terms of customising the ride.
If you have to shave off bushing height to allow the kingpin nut to bite then carefully sand away the top bushing from the bottom. I wouldn't advise touching the bottom bushing as that will change the height of your trucks and throw off geometry.
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Man, I really enjoyed my first sesh on my forged hollows.
Was on titaniums mainly for a while, and the weight (or lack thereof) is what started my madness train last time pushing me to thunders.
Feel like I should've just gone to these forged hollows for a little bit more weight.
My skating is so calibrated to indys, everything just felt normal, zero adjustment or warmup aside from dealing with brand new bushings.
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I wish I had such good ankle control that I felt limited in turn by standard Indy bushings and needed to trim things down AND run conicals.
The funny thing is I also take down the kingpin too for most boards that have lower bushings, usually on well used traded in trucks from others, so my own trucks are definitely not loosey goosey like some of the people I know.
Having a stable setup that can still turn is most important to me, but also having kingpin clearance is essential, hence the trimming down the tops of bushings to get the kingpin down a little more, but it also works for any others wanting looser trucks too.
In this way I make trucks still work well past what some people would consider well past their best, as I put them on boards for people to use, mostly kids who don't grind a lot, but even to have the set up just work for anyone that wants to
On another note, I tried some Indy conical black 94 duro bushings that someone was done with, compressed and super squishy for them, but they actually worked well for me in one board I had not touched the kingpin on, so at normal height, kingpin nut flush with kingpin, they were stable and still turned. From new they are crazily tight feeling, but on this well used set, they actually feel like solid stock bushings, so it is funny what sometimes comes back to me in that regard.
The conical bottoms definitely helped there though - makes for a lot more give all round.
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Bought some 149 Standards to test with my upped board size, 8,5. Indy stock bushings are way to soft as usual. What bushings you guys recommend for a 190 pounds guy for a medium stiffness?
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Bought some 149 Standards to test with my upped board size, 8,5. Indy stock bushings are way to soft as usual. What bushings you guys recommend for a 190 pounds guy for a medium stiffness?
You could try the blues or the black Indy bushings. I weigh 185 and I was riding the blue conical for a while but they kinda started to feel too squishy when it was warmer out. Got the black now and ride them flush and they feel perfect. Stable when I need to go straight and pop but still have that good turn.
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Ace bushings work with Stage 4s?
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Bought some 149 Standards to test with my upped board size, 8,5. Indy stock bushings are way to soft as usual. What bushings you guys recommend for a 190 pounds guy for a medium stiffness?
I'd say try the hard black bushings
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Bought some 149 Standards to test with my upped board size, 8,5. Indy stock bushings are way to soft as usual. What bushings you guys recommend for a 190 pounds guy for a medium stiffness?
When I was 190 I really liked the Indy 96a yellow bushings. I found them to be perfect for medium tightness without having to crank them down very much thus keeping geometry in tact. Not a big fan of the 94a black because they're slightly taller and wider than the other Indy bushings for whatever reason. I'm down to 175 now and have been trying out the 92a blue Indy bushings which seem to be great for me in Indy standards.
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Bought some 149 Standards to test with my upped board size, 8,5. Indy stock bushings are way to soft as usual. What bushings you guys recommend for a 190 pounds guy for a medium stiffness?
Break 'em in.
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Bought some 149 Standards to test with my upped board size, 8,5. Indy stock bushings are way to soft as usual. What bushings you guys recommend for a 190 pounds guy for a medium stiffness?
You are probably going to get quite a few different answers here, as already seen above, all of which can and will work for specific people, so it is really down to personal preference, but also down to how the bushings break in.
I am about the same weight, for reference and this has been my experience on each option:
Stock bushings start off super mushy and almost feel like there is no give at all, which will often make me think that I have no interest in keeping them in a board, but to skate those same bushings after half a dozen sessions, they actually firm up a lot and work quite well for some things for me. Note I did take them all apart and clean off all surfaces on a set of standard Indy trucks I set up recently, which helped a whole lot as there seemed to be a light coating of something on the hangers which made them even more mushy feeling right from go.
Then with aftermarket Indy bushings, specifically the blue 92, black 94 and yellow 96 variations, I have had different experiences on brand new ones, vs well worn in and almost mushed out old ones that came back to me from people I know.
The blue ones are similar to the stock ones once stock ones firm up, so still fairly free feeling, especially in the conical shape, not quite so much in the cylinder shape, but they are the closest small step up.
The black ones felt very solid and hard from new, almost too solid and hard, so I was not really keen, but to get some back that are well used, they actually feel really good, have nice resistance but can still turn just as much as the softer ones, especially the conical shape bushings, but also the cylinder were not at all stiff when I tried a friends board.
The yellow ones were even worse for being so stiff I had no business being on them from new, so those ones I did take off after a few laps and yet again the well used ones were very nice, stable, but still turned, everything working well on them.
Summary - stock bushings are soft and firm up, whereas aftermarket bushings are firm but soften up a lot as they wear in, cylinder will stay stiffer than conical shape, so it is almost like having five or more options up that ladder from stock through conical blue, cylinder blue, conical black, cylinder black, ending with conical yellow.
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Ace bushings work with Stage 4s?
They could...but both the Stage IV top and bottom are taller than ACE's offerings, by a good amount and would probably really throw off the feeling of the indys (I picked up the indy stage IV bushings for use in Royals, no luck).
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I'm in need of new trucks, and I can't decide between standard and hollow indys. I've been riding standards pretty much my whole skate life because I love them and I'm afraid of change. I'm interested in trying the hollow standards because I want to keep the 55mm height, but I'm worried that the hollows won't last as long? I typically ride mine down to the axle and sometimes beyond. I feel like once you break through that hollow tube they will be toast. Does anyone have experience with this?
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Expand Quote
Ace bushings work with Stage 4s?
They could...but both the Stage IV top and bottom are taller than ACE's offerings, by a good amount and would probably really throw off the feeling of the indys (I picked up the indy stage IV bushings for use in Royals, no luck).
Not only do they work, I think they're required to unlock them. I find the stock red ones to not have any rebound or life to them. Shit, normal stage 11's come with bouncy lively stocks now, no idea why the 4's don't. So yeah, pop some ace mediums in and they'll turn even better than ace.
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I'm in need of new trucks, and I can't decide between standard and hollow indys. I've been riding standards pretty much my whole skate life because I love them and I'm afraid of change. I'm interested in trying the hollow standards because I want to keep the 55mm height, but I'm worried that the hollows won't last as long? I typically ride mine down to the axle and sometimes beyond. I feel like once you break through that hollow tube they will be toast. Does anyone have experience with this?
I have seen both standard and hollow axles (and even ti axles for that matter) all down through axles and although they more often than not break at some point, there doesn't seem to be a more or less for all type situation.
Sure hollow axles when half way through show the open middle and at that point they are more likely to grind down a little faster, but I don't think they break any faster than standard axles, that being more down to the metal around the axle as well, with some trucks having almost nothing left, whereas others having a lot more meat round the hanger.
Transition skating might break a hanger faster than curb skating too, once it is down into axle, so when someone grinds through the heel side right beside the wheel, it is way more likely to snap off earlier than someone who skates curbs and grinds down the whole hanger right through, or more to the middle area, than right off at the end.
Got a lot of transition hangers in two pieces but not so many curb / slappy hangers in two pieces, from what people have brought in or kept for "show and tell" if that makes sense.
Do you go through the heel or other end, or more through the middle or truck as a whole?
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Expand Quote
I'm in need of new trucks, and I can't decide between standard and hollow indys. I've been riding standards pretty much my whole skate life because I love them and I'm afraid of change. I'm interested in trying the hollow standards because I want to keep the 55mm height, but I'm worried that the hollows won't last as long? I typically ride mine down to the axle and sometimes beyond. I feel like once you break through that hollow tube they will be toast. Does anyone have experience with this?
I have seen both standard and hollow axles (and even ti axles for that matter) all down through axles and although they more often than not break at some point, there doesn't seem to be a more or less for all type situation.
Sure hollow axles when half way through show the open middle and at that point they are more likely to grind down a little faster, but I don't think they break any faster than standard axles, that being more down to the metal around the axle as well, with some trucks having almost nothing left, whereas others having a lot more meat round the hanger.
Transition skating might break a hanger faster than curb skating too, once it is down into axle, so when someone grinds through the heel side right beside the wheel, it is way more likely to snap off earlier than someone who skates curbs and grinds down the whole hanger right through, or more to the middle area, than right off at the end.
Got a lot of transition hangers in two pieces but not so many curb / slappy hangers in two pieces, from what people have brought in or kept for "show and tell" if that makes sense.
Do you go through the heel or other end, or more through the middle or truck as a whole?
My current pair on my front truck its a little more towards the middle, but on my back truck its on the heelside like you said. I mostly skate ledges, but have done a lot of slappy crooks on this pair. I'm also down to the pivot cup on my front baseplate. I think I'll give the standard hollows a shot. Thanks
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My current pair on my front truck its a little more towards the middle, but on my back truck its on the heelside like you said. I mostly skate ledges, but have done a lot of slappy crooks on this pair. I'm also down to the pivot cup on my front baseplate. I think I'll give the standard hollows a shot. Thanks
At least being the same everything in terms of height, turn, etc just a little lighter, you can have the best of both there.
That way you will know which you prefer too.
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I'm in need of new trucks, and I can't decide between standard and hollow indys. I've been riding standards pretty much my whole skate life because I love them and I'm afraid of change. I'm interested in trying the hollow standards because I want to keep the 55mm height, but I'm worried that the hollows won't last as long? I typically ride mine down to the axle and sometimes beyond. I feel like once you break through that hollow tube they will be toast. Does anyone have experience with this?
They hold up about the same. I’ve had standard and hollows that were well over half way through the axles and rode them till they folded or broke. Both gave up the ghost about the same time(3/4 through the axle). I did see a set where someone ground completely through the axle and got a few days after that before they died.
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Is it true that Indy’s feel the best at 149 and above? And if soo how come they feel so damn good on a 8.25 and like whatever on a 8.5? Just experienced this today for the first time and they felt so stable I guess is the word
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Makes sense. I mostly skate Thunders, but recently stepped up to a 8,5 deck, and got some 149 indys with it. I do have some indy 144s, but I kinda dont like them, which is why I skate Thunder, mostly. The 149 indys however, feel great! They also seem to lock in much better than smaller indys.
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Ace bushings work with Stage 4s?
Not quite. They're a touch too small, both cone and barrel. The stock bushings are good - they firm up after a while. I'm running Riptide KranK 90a bushings in mine nowadays though.
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Is it true that Indy’s feel the best at 149 and above? And if soo how come they feel so damn good on a 8.25 and like whatever on a 8.5? Just experienced this today for the first time and they felt so stable I guess is the word
I skate 8.5 with 149 and can confirm they feel great especially with harder bushings. I have also skated 149 on 8.25 and might actually like that better tbh.