questions that don't deserve their own thread

[goodatmeth]

Thanks for all the answers about bearings. Gonna think about it and probably invest in swiss six in the future, but at the moment it's way too much money. I feel like mini logos got a bit worse. Still the best in terms of bang for buck, but they used to hold up much longer for me.

[Mbrimson88]

Thanks for all the answers about bearings. Gonna think about it and probably invest in swiss six in the future, but at the moment it's way too much money. I feel like mini logos got a bit worse. Still the best in terms of bang for buck, but they used to hold up much longer for me.

Re Mini logo bearings used to be better - Was that when they had the one rubber (black) shield and one metal one, or have you only skated the newer rubber shield version?

I haven't had a new set in quite a while of those ones although I have seen the variants of old and new, but the older ones that I pulled the metal side off still skate well for a cheap bearing in one board I have going.  Wondering if something changed along the way there somewhere.

[Uncle Flea]

Can a Pal quickly help me with information.

I like ps but I can't remember my shape. I'm pretty sure it's PS (A)

But only B and C shape is available at the shop.

What does the C shape look like irl?

[moonordie]

Anybody has skated Penny 2? Worth it? Got a nice discount and I could get those or OG1 but don't want to waste a good discount that could be used in some 808

[DarkPools]

Anybody has skated Penny 2? Worth it? Got a nice discount and I could get those or OG1 but don't want to waste a good discount that could be used in some 808

I haven't, but I tried them on and they fit and feel better than the Accel OG. Honestly, they fit how I wanted the current Accel OGs to fit. Roomy (but not too much), no toe scrunching in the front, and more "foot shaped" than the Accel.

I don't see a whole lot of them around (online or IRL) but they seem "good." I wouldn't say great, unless you're a puffy soletech enthusiast. I'm a big soletech fan and even I'm hesitant to skate them. They look durable AF though

[mstuntbless]

Picked up a sci fi 8.5 listed as 14.5 wb but it was more like 14.3. Anyone else experience this?

[SaySo]

Expand Quote

Anyone got any recommendations on where I can find some brown cords? I cant find any Kirkland brand ones lately so im looking for something with that similar fit/price range.

[close]

I've got these in black and they're probably my favorite pants.

https://shop.ccs.com/products/ccs-original-relaxed-corduroy-pants-brown

Sorry for bumping this a year later, but how do these fit in the waist compared to like a Dickies 874? Are they TTS or vanity sized? And did they shrink a lot?

[LebowskisRug]

Picked up a sci fi 8.5 listed as 14.5 wb but it was more like 14.3. Anyone else experience this?

What graphic? They sometimes use this shape, which is the same as the DLX Tom Knox/generic team deck shape.

[manysnakes]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Anyone got any recommendations on where I can find some brown cords? I cant find any Kirkland brand ones lately so im looking for something with that similar fit/price range.

[close]

I've got these in black and they're probably my favorite pants.

https://shop.ccs.com/products/ccs-original-relaxed-corduroy-pants-brown

[close]

Sorry for bumping this a year later, but how do these fit in the waist compared to like a Dickies 874? Are they TTS or vanity sized? And did they shrink a lot?

I have no idea. I only own some heavy duty Dickie's painter pants from my days as a laborer.

[logjammin]

Anyone here know what grit sandpaper to use to remove a board graphic the quickest when doing it by hand without an orbital sander? I've done the acetone method and also lacquer thinner which is acetone mixed with other chemicals and both leave a milky white haze on the stain after the graphic is gone and it looks like shit.

[Mbrimson88]

Anyone here know what grit sandpaper to use to remove a board graphic the quickest when doing it by hand without an orbital sander? I've done the acetone method and also lacquer thinner which is acetone mixed with other chemicals and both leave a milky white haze on the stain after the graphic is gone and it looks like shit.

Probably doesn't help but I have used grip offcuts that worked well.

Checking the grip tape thread and people saying most grip was between 80 and 100, that seems to make sense.

I stuck the grip offcut to a woodblock and went to town, which worked well enough, but I found that using a blade like a scratchie on the graphic actually worked better, took the graphic off while still leaving the under layer of sealer intact for the most part and came up well.

That said, some graphics come off a lot better than others, so see how that goes.


What is the usual grade of sandpaper?
40 grit: Coarse.
80 grit: Medium.
100 grit: Medium.
120 grit: Fine.
220 grit: Fine.

[LebowskisRug]

I've used 80 then 220. Depends on how much paint, but 80 took it off super quick, 220 got it nice and smooth, toss paint and/or clear over and it'll be great.

[mstuntbless]

Expand Quote

Picked up a sci fi 8.5 listed as 14.5 wb but it was more like 14.3. Anyone else experience this?

[close]

What graphic? They sometimes use this shape, which is the same as the DLX Tom Knox/generic team deck shape.

 
The locked file jerry hsu board

[logjammin]

I've used 80 then 220. Depends on how much paint, but 80 took it off super quick, 220 got it nice and smooth, toss paint and/or clear over and it'll be great.

and this was by hand without an orbital sander?

graphic is in the middle of the board, it's a WKND board with wheel wells and a beautiful teal stain. but i hate their graphics. It will look amazing just being a blank.

[SaySo]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Anyone got any recommendations on where I can find some brown cords? I cant find any Kirkland brand ones lately so im looking for something with that similar fit/price range.

[close]

I've got these in black and they're probably my favorite pants.

https://shop.ccs.com/products/ccs-original-relaxed-corduroy-pants-brown

[close]

Sorry for bumping this a year later, but how do these fit in the waist compared to like a Dickies 874? Are they TTS or vanity sized? And did they shrink a lot?

[close]

I have no idea. I only own some heavy duty Dickie's painter pants from my days as a laborer.

Ah, ok. Thanks for taking the time to reply though! hahaha.

[fs1/2cab]

I've used 80 then 220. Depends on how much paint, but 80 took it off super quick, 220 got it nice and smooth, toss paint and/or clear over and it'll be great.

I also did it like this by hand. Takes a bit of time but can also be kinda relaxing.

*forgot to add, you can stick the sandpaper or grip on something like a wooden block. It will feel a bit more handy and you can apply even pressure.

[Kaydubbb]

What board brands have you guys noticed have a good amount of flat after the truck bolts on a lift of their shapes? I can pretty much only buy boards online and hate when there's a gap between the back of the truck baseplate and the board right before the tail and nose kick up. I feel like the only boards iver ever broken are when there's a gap and they break at the tail right next to the truck bolts. I'm on a quasi 8.625 currently and the shape is nice but I'm not digging the PS stix wood, it feels flimsy and there's the gap I hate.

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

I've used 80 then 220. Depends on how much paint, but 80 took it off super quick, 220 got it nice and smooth, toss paint and/or clear over and it'll be great.

[close]

I also did it like this by hand. Takes a bit of time but can also be kinda relaxing.

*forgot to add, you can stick the sandpaper or grip on something like a wooden block. It will feel a bit more handy and you can apply even pressure.

Did you guys then finish / seal it with clear coat or anything, or just skate it as is after the sanding job?

The last one I sanded back I didn't do anything else to and skated it fine until it broke, so I guess it depends on how long a board lasts as well.

Just a thought anyway, as other people I know who reshape boards, or even have sessions on rough ground that rips up the sides will sand it back on the edges and apply clear coat to seal it again.  I can see their reasoning, but I haven't gone that far with the process.

[fs1/2cab]

I did that clear coat only once but didn't do it the other times. With clear coat the deck felt like it would slide a little bit better, but maybe that was just in my head. When you wipe that dust off with a wet towel, the wood looks really good most of the time.

[Aquatic Dinosaur]

Picked up a sci fi 8.5 listed as 14.5 wb but it was more like 14.3. Anyone else experience this?

This happens with a lot brands, especially when it comes to wheelbase

[goodatmeth]

What board brands have you guys noticed have a good amount of flat after the truck bolts on a lift of their shapes? I can pretty much only buy boards online and hate when there's a gap between the back of the truck baseplate and the board right before the tail and nose kick up. I feel like the only boards iver ever broken are when there's a gap and they break at the tail right next to the truck bolts. I'm on a quasi 8.625 currently and the shape is nice but I'm not digging the PS stix wood, it feels flimsy and there's the gap I hate.

Girl/Chocolate decks have a stupid big amount flat where you want it. (I hate it)

[PeteP]

How does dsm compare to bbs? Im tempted to try an 8.38 or 8.5 Jacuzzi, my previous 3 boards were all 8.38 from Real, which are known to be closer to 8.5. Thanks in advance

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

What board brands have you guys noticed have a good amount of flat after the truck bolts on a lift of their shapes? I can pretty much only buy boards online and hate when there's a gap between the back of the truck baseplate and the board right before the tail and nose kick up. I feel like the only boards iver ever broken are when there's a gap and they break at the tail right next to the truck bolts. I'm on a quasi 8.625 currently and the shape is nice but I'm not digging the PS stix wood, it feels flimsy and there's the gap I hate.

[close]

Girl/Chocolate decks have a stupid big amount flat where you want it. (I hate it)

I noticed Sour boards do to.  HLC wood, so often shorter 14.2 wheelbases with a lot of flat past bolts before the kicks.

Shorter wheelbases on regular molds often have a lot more flat after bolts anyway, from some woodshops / brands, but I think BBS and PS Stix are often very specific with molds in relation to wheelbases, as Prof Schmitt saying they keep them very much between one to two fingers of flat, which then often means that longer baseplates like Venture will seem like they stick out or lift up more.

Guessing you mean the boards break over the inside bolt holes?  This is the most common breakage point on any board, regardless of concave, trucks, etc, but I haven't seen too many break on the outside of the kicks through the bolts, although it does happen.

[Woodshop]

How does dsm compare to bbs? Im tempted to try an 8.38 or 8.5 Jacuzzi, my previous 3 boards were all 8.38 from Real, which are known to be closer to 8.5. Thanks in advance

Have you skated any other Dwindle or DSM boards before?  The list is pretty long, Enjoi, Blind, Darkstar and many others all on that wood, which is usually a lot stiffer than anything else, specific sizes and shapes to different molds, some steeper and some more mellow, but if you are asking about just the size, they are usually fairly spot on with widths, their 8.375 board being a little less than the DLX or similar 8.38, which as you said is closer to 8.5 in width, although some of the other BBS / Generator 8.375 boards are the same as the Dwindle / DSM 8.375 boards, which are a mm or so smaller than the DLX 8.38 boards.

Jacuzzi has the exact same shapes and wood as Enjoi, from what Louie had said / from people on other posts too, so if you had seen any of those, you already know what you would be getting, or at least could go in somewhere to check as there might still be a lot more Enjoi or similar boards around, more so than Jacuzzi boards anyway.


Woodshop thread here if you need a bit more of a range of product from those brands too:

https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=120409.0

[DERBY]

my setup got pretty wet today. ik my boards fucked. but i was concerned bout my trucks n bearings.

running some af1 hollows and quantum isotopes. managed to pat dry the trucks. thanks

[Kaydubbb]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

What board brands have you guys noticed have a good amount of flat after the truck bolts on a lift of their shapes? I can pretty much only buy boards online and hate when there's a gap between the back of the truck baseplate and the board right before the tail and nose kick up. I feel like the only boards iver ever broken are when there's a gap and they break at the tail right next to the truck bolts. I'm on a quasi 8.625 currently and the shape is nice but I'm not digging the PS stix wood, it feels flimsy and there's the gap I hate.

[close]

Girl/Chocolate decks have a stupid big amount flat where you want it. (I hate it)

[close]

I noticed Sour boards do to.  HLC wood, so often shorter 14.2 wheelbases with a lot of flat past bolts before the kicks.

Shorter wheelbases on regular molds often have a lot more flat after bolts anyway, from some woodshops / brands, but I think BBS and PS Stix are often very specific with molds in relation to wheelbases, as Prof Schmitt saying they keep them very much between one to two fingers of flat, which then often means that longer baseplates like Venture will seem like they stick out or lift up more.

Guessing you mean the boards break over the inside bolt holes?  This is the most common breakage point on any board, regardless of concave, trucks, etc, but I haven't seen too many break on the outside of the kicks through the bolts, although it does happen.

They break right next to the outside bolts closest to the tail. I don't break boards often but it does happen more when the gap is there. I have to imagine it's as the the tail flexes down it closes the gap and then hits the truck baseplate, maybe causing more issues for me than if the entirety of the baseplate was constantly in full contact with the board.

I do try and look at the wheelbase to length ratio when buying a board, I'd assume a 14.5" wb on a 32.5" board would have a longer nose and tail than 14.5" wb on a 32" board but it's so hit and miss as a gauge as two boards can have 6.75" tails but be different in how far along the board they start to kick up after the bolts. There's also the chance that the extra length in the ratio just gets taken up in a longer nose.

I'm not really too concerned with how much fingers of flat there is, just that there is no gap. My mind also might be playing tricks on me.

[DarkPools]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

What board brands have you guys noticed have a good amount of flat after the truck bolts on a lift of their shapes? I can pretty much only buy boards online and hate when there's a gap between the back of the truck baseplate and the board right before the tail and nose kick up. I feel like the only boards iver ever broken are when there's a gap and they break at the tail right next to the truck bolts. I'm on a quasi 8.625 currently and the shape is nice but I'm not digging the PS stix wood, it feels flimsy and there's the gap I hate.

[close]

Girl/Chocolate decks have a stupid big amount flat where you want it. (I hate it)

[close]

I noticed Sour boards do to.  HLC wood, so often shorter 14.2 wheelbases with a lot of flat past bolts before the kicks.

Shorter wheelbases on regular molds often have a lot more flat after bolts anyway, from some woodshops / brands, but I think BBS and PS Stix are often very specific with molds in relation to wheelbases, as Prof Schmitt saying they keep them very much between one to two fingers of flat, which then often means that longer baseplates like Venture will seem like they stick out or lift up more.

Guessing you mean the boards break over the inside bolt holes?  This is the most common breakage point on any board, regardless of concave, trucks, etc, but I haven't seen too many break on the outside of the kicks through the bolts, although it does happen.

[close]

They break right next to the outside bolts closest to the tail. I don't break boards often but it does happen more when the gap is there. I have to imagine it's as the the tail flexes down it closes the gap and then hits the truck baseplate, maybe causing more issues for me than if the entirety of the baseplate was constantly in full contact with the board.

I do try and look at the wheelbase to length ratio when buying a board, I'd assume a 14.5" wb on a 32.5" board would have a longer nose and tail than 14.5" wb on a 32" board but it's so hit and miss as a gauge as two boards can have 6.75" tails but be different in how far along the board they start to kick up after the bolts. There's also the chance that the extra length in the ratio just gets taken up in a longer nose.

I'm not really too concerned with how much fingers of flat there is, just that there is no gap. My mind also might be playing tricks on me.

Wait, you want NO gap between bolts and when tails kick up? That means you DON'T want boards with > fingers of flat before the kicks. Wanted to be sure since I may have misunderstood from the early posts.

If you don't want that gap, most of BBS decks do not have an excessive amount of flat. Unlike Crailtap and some PS Stix shapes.
- DLX, Black Label, Polar, etc.

Avoid the China woodshop brands (Girl/Chocolate, non-pro Toy Machine, etc.) if you don't like that gap between bolts and the kicks

[scab]

my setup got pretty wet today. ik my boards fucked. but i was concerned bout my trucks n bearings.

running some af1 hollows and quantum isotopes. managed to pat dry the trucks. thanks

Make sure you get all the water out of the bearings by removing the shields and spinning them. Then apply some lubricant (less is usually more) and you should be good to go.

The trucks should not be affected whatsoever.

[Kaydubbb]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

What board brands have you guys noticed have a good amount of flat after the truck bolts on a lift of their shapes? I can pretty much only buy boards online and hate when there's a gap between the back of the truck baseplate and the board right before the tail and nose kick up. I feel like the only boards iver ever broken are when there's a gap and they break at the tail right next to the truck bolts. I'm on a quasi 8.625 currently and the shape is nice but I'm not digging the PS stix wood, it feels flimsy and there's the gap I hate.

[close]

Girl/Chocolate decks have a stupid big amount flat where you want it. (I hate it)

[close]

I noticed Sour boards do to.  HLC wood, so often shorter 14.2 wheelbases with a lot of flat past bolts before the kicks.

Shorter wheelbases on regular molds often have a lot more flat after bolts anyway, from some woodshops / brands, but I think BBS and PS Stix are often very specific with molds in relation to wheelbases, as Prof Schmitt saying they keep them very much between one to two fingers of flat, which then often means that longer baseplates like Venture will seem like they stick out or lift up more.

Guessing you mean the boards break over the inside bolt holes?  This is the most common breakage point on any board, regardless of concave, trucks, etc, but I haven't seen too many break on the outside of the kicks through the bolts, although it does happen.

[close]

They break right next to the outside bolts closest to the tail. I don't break boards often but it does happen more when the gap is there. I have to imagine it's as the the tail flexes down it closes the gap and then hits the truck baseplate, maybe causing more issues for me than if the entirety of the baseplate was constantly in full contact with the board.

I do try and look at the wheelbase to length ratio when buying a board, I'd assume a 14.5" wb on a 32.5" board would have a longer nose and tail than 14.5" wb on a 32" board but it's so hit and miss as a gauge as two boards can have 6.75" tails but be different in how far along the board they start to kick up after the bolts. There's also the chance that the extra length in the ratio just gets taken up in a longer nose.

I'm not really too concerned with how much fingers of flat there is, just that there is no gap. My mind also might be playing tricks on me.

[close]

Wait, you want NO gap between bolts and when tails kick up? That means you DON'T want boards with > fingers of flat before the kicks. Wanted to be sure since I may have misunderstood from the early posts.

If you don't want that gap, most of BBS decks do not have an excessive amount of flat. Unlike Crailtap and some PS Stix shapes.
- DLX, Black Label, Polar, etc.

Avoid the China woodshop brands (Girl/Chocolate, non-pro Toy Machine, etc.) if you don't like that gap between bolts and the kicks

I might be explaining wrong, I mean a physical gap between the baseplate of trucks and the bottom of the board. When there's not much flat or the tail and nose kick up quickly after the bolts there is sometimes a small gap at the back of the baseplate. Not referring to the fingers of flat as the gap.

[commander jameson]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

What board brands have you guys noticed have a good amount of flat after the truck bolts on a lift of their shapes? I can pretty much only buy boards online and hate when there's a gap between the back of the truck baseplate and the board right before the tail and nose kick up. I feel like the only boards iver ever broken are when there's a gap and they break at the tail right next to the truck bolts. I'm on a quasi 8.625 currently and the shape is nice but I'm not digging the PS stix wood, it feels flimsy and there's the gap I hate.

[close]

Girl/Chocolate decks have a stupid big amount flat where you want it. (I hate it)

[close]

I noticed Sour boards do to.  HLC wood, so often shorter 14.2 wheelbases with a lot of flat past bolts before the kicks.

Shorter wheelbases on regular molds often have a lot more flat after bolts anyway, from some woodshops / brands, but I think BBS and PS Stix are often very specific with molds in relation to wheelbases, as Prof Schmitt saying they keep them very much between one to two fingers of flat, which then often means that longer baseplates like Venture will seem like they stick out or lift up more.

Guessing you mean the boards break over the inside bolt holes?  This is the most common breakage point on any board, regardless of concave, trucks, etc, but I haven't seen too many break on the outside of the kicks through the bolts, although it does happen.

[close]

They break right next to the outside bolts closest to the tail. I don't break boards often but it does happen more when the gap is there. I have to imagine it's as the the tail flexes down it closes the gap and then hits the truck baseplate, maybe causing more issues for me than if the entirety of the baseplate was constantly in full contact with the board.

I do try and look at the wheelbase to length ratio when buying a board, I'd assume a 14.5" wb on a 32.5" board would have a longer nose and tail than 14.5" wb on a 32" board but it's so hit and miss as a gauge as two boards can have 6.75" tails but be different in how far along the board they start to kick up after the bolts. There's also the chance that the extra length in the ratio just gets taken up in a longer nose.

I'm not really too concerned with how much fingers of flat there is, just that there is no gap. My mind also might be playing tricks on me.

[close]

Wait, you want NO gap between bolts and when tails kick up? That means you DON'T want boards with > fingers of flat before the kicks. Wanted to be sure since I may have misunderstood from the early posts.

If you don't want that gap, most of BBS decks do not have an excessive amount of flat. Unlike Crailtap and some PS Stix shapes.
- DLX, Black Label, Polar, etc.

Avoid the China woodshop brands (Girl/Chocolate, non-pro Toy Machine, etc.) if you don't like that gap between bolts and the kicks

[close]

I might be explaining wrong, I mean a physical gap between the baseplate of trucks and the bottom of the board. When there's not much flat or the tail and nose kick up quickly after the bolts there is sometimes a small gap at the back of the baseplate. Not referring to the fingers of flat as the gap.

Santa Cruz use to have specific concave back in the day that did just that what you are trying to explain.


I remember that SC use to sell specific risers for those decks to avoid problem when baseplate is not touching deck.
This sometimes happens with modern concaves bud I don't remember when was last time I saw it, maybe back in 90s.