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Skateboarding => Shoes & Gear => Topic started by: Bubblegum Tate on August 30, 2019, 10:16:18 PM
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
Edit:
Because I love you all...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TG8XcX9CnOesm6YTQGcyza3E4OYYLbO3gMpMz6Orw2tH7S93KszQp-eoHLuU16iVHIobT4vMZ9JuKt4H98pqi2XHAcNJtWoi46lCWE8u_Gf9E0Y6253XZDi-ybTZrcv2C9gHLBHiW9A)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MOt9TDvvMwRiPQfIRVp3O9N0FNdOo7zDzx9kfp2Pt4FeCcF0_krJ0lloLVZUnKTV385OKZCTgez87zkAbYo6gknGorHyFps1Q7WfH_u_8BiV1W2byGnVSBxtSgSO_KdklbLegw6Mklw)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P_PRO340NCWQSUnm88_hxcPmaARoROsLE1Z-BEVqMm6Hym5LXGxTLPWnptqaWI0mFYU_nX6eL3GaZ-ZXAhLdTY8ylDha9EecHlJ32iCD-NgVGj8rsPwhSKqddp8KsW4dHHrfwg927O8)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WEwDlJy4cZMDjMbRD09GgF1ORYONetbtnSAOfl1VtBYRkY1vlj8D_v66eFAtoiEVnNzcHLuYCCxVWEASlKcXjJlXIq8i33ylzJFaBqsTG5uK0BY--3y7V0nv9SrcH7xZGEKA9DE79fo)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M9QmUONA2i6HrXeK616vvt_HYn4OEMKSd8mzkWNOVeYjsqOEUz1oI4A9itxMEX5AnhumbC653DkITwW7kAXOwD8i3kCsM0MJn6DdqBr-Jh-uWTTGrh9eDH-wbyL7j_cgXqW1bBp4sw8)
Stock pin + washer
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uwiuuNbqAsyoSrnL2T9S6l5uAMP4lI5i-KedJxmissUzuVbEG2eA_IjpIU2qusufT6UCVCTQANBGY-W20BnFbmgKtZj1LHWVP3_ETonKbPbWB3BY_kzkkoavzeJqQNebvFhPNkOpxdI)
Krux pin + washer
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Stwb8LErmKLACzYw069j1IpYOWYwsknKehS9j6SqxC2S6PDf8LEnKfcW1BaLFnijpDi4fhrwoIaWWfJ16Y5eYrOWjhx9pkmCr5Sb4hYSpYzTGEHG5slFj__5HuHpSyIn-Y1RtRSqyPE)
7g lighter using Krux Pin (meh)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M6rTAnNyNJi4LudvlGKUutOs_dmFvEFJGc0jcI_fxLwSr2FEevmpINoL_ekKa_GBt2nU3eSHJ7QaJWMUR2qJUQuiRw5oPDuE1oW1Czt0b91c09dD4HUcaycPQMNS9t2DDLQ_g26Bi-A)
Tiniest bit more grind clearance with the Krux pin (L)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gfIRnHuaoBb4M3ivRFul2oy3_69WO25cqGK6tmY6wmoDD_JgcvDK8wZ9ybDXt14YBfcwmxTohUYLRaQgNUrNx6pZXUaQLSDlZYqKz2yoZn8gx6Bc9ZWbqJma2jF6zo50P6emWP4DkMs)
You can see the underside hanger curve has changed compared to the TI Hanger; I never noticed how much shorter the front part of the forge plates are compared to cast - Mid hanger has more lean towards the center of your board than the upright-ness of the forged
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y89Gkw7587HK8cBDgwfDoFnoTkedka-g5H3LVkkI9AC4EXEPAftzuxKVw6-D8CoUGffVeUrf8aq5j6xQXOEJ3PfS7uRQU0XC4sSXZTXHl3SNmWfDbqY-fPfdvd_Pu64hciSX7GVjlAw)
Plates flush against and edge, WB is clearly tighter than the forged/and you can see one image above that the lean of hanger is more forward than upright)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H7VYkZl3k4lA3OK5L0rG9x4IMaNyJ9Y2y1-7-CX-e6GonBA4qR-be_fTKbyFsw_OYNbGOy45lQu58YK7EaOPhOIjFKkm5Gy8XPzxQOsGCqBQwlv-2kK0KzirDfNW-neaCBm6Y4Clxg8)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ks9KQX5VbtmgzVCMb5ENOjFtfzY8N67n9aTE6V6gOx2FAQUfUSlm1XxgaD5WztL_4gPE5MwLoAyAzZosAzgvDhwcmj81_HVTUYq1A0RSMjbnA2t9qybSZCVp1uE_lSsUpYnUJr8tBp4)
Mid Hanger Forged plate
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VM-Vlwipc8U08hW-mIN12VIdlqFx6-P9Qh5oeK2p8In4jqQO6ynJVbnWKMrO5wPvs3UFK5wbxlxlHzUuO5i5nVv94Ro8LOUZ2HZatC2GDrXPwuxG4kqZIUSKAoakqbTILBnFUKIeORM)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Mid cast plate TI hanger 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rmnoDE6cUOB6PXAFdam_JnZjeeeApfUlDZhtLzKJ681X1t7kG0B13DFEXCiq-zgJuj6__9lPWAdI-3m6b9dXWRQ4Gj4bsci8C5Imu1mEmN_L6QuJrNSHxj6cevUo7Qh2Z1BRpIW92nU)
(L) Indy Forged TI 144 | (R) Indy Mid hanger 144 FORGED PLATE 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o6z1aiEf9feX79v66MHkDsO0W8P4uUfPpmmp2VD7W282Do25f8lF-HNwupagruwtJRy0LTviZDSRQimYcVx6zfXjy-gSpv_cEs9hw34R_s0nfIkimuO1GeCg0jivgDlfDrzVxmmxYNw)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy FORGED plate Mid Hanger Standard (50.5mm now?)
Setting them up now, will measure WB compared to the forged TI will post feedback after.
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Is this not happening?
The new hollow Indy Low trucks are out
https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/stage-11-hollow-silver-silver-low-independent-skateboard-trucks
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Is this not happening?
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The new hollow Indy Low trucks are out
https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/stage-11-hollow-silver-silver-low-independent-skateboard-trucks
I think these are the last ones left? They are “low in stock”. Once they are sold out, I don’t think they are making anymore of them?
They are phasing them out of the catalog in the future.
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Ahh rip mb
*didn't see that last part
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
I also ride lows, sad to hear too cause I did like my 3 sets of Indy lows cause they were legit turning low trucks but hey
That mid with an inverted pin doesn’t sound bad! I wanna see these so bad
Can’t wait
The only legit low trucks I’ve tried so far still in production would have to be ace lows, mini logo, and if you want to consider it any thunder 147 especially the lights, hollow lights, and titanium’s with the forged plates making them around 48-50mm tall
Ventures are okay but don’t turn enough for me and I haven’t tried destructo lows yet
Royal lows are trash, krux lows are odd, and the illustrious thunder 147 low were terrible
145 low are okay
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Wouldn't "mid height" just be their forged height of 53.5 mm? Isn't the range from high to forged to low something approximately 55 - 53.5 - 48, respectively? Dunno how they can split hairs any further than that...
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So did you just see Indy's instagram story and make these assumptions or did someone else tell you this bullshit?
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So did you just see Indy's instagram story and make these assumptions or did someone else tell you this bullshit?
(http://giphygifs.s3.amazonaws.com/media/ddd0HBTakik00/200.gif)
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What are you too scared to venture into the truck thread? You should be.....
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^i see you well played
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What are you too scared to venture into the truck thread? You should be.....
I heard that’s where all the mental slappers reside
Oh wait
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Seriously tate, what secret info are you pretending to have, other than those stories posted in that thread?
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So did you just see Indy's instagram story and make these assumptions or did someone else tell you this bullshit?
I asked someone who works at NHS and they said they will stop making lows (or have already) in the future.
They will just be replaced by a mid truck with an inverted kingpin. Where you need an Allen wrench to loose and tighten the truck.
Seriously tate, what secret info are you pretending to have, other than those stories posted in that thread?
I don’t even know or seen the stories. I was just told Indy lows will be replaced.
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Go to your local shop and ask if they can order lows, they probably can order whatever is left over but if you want to grab some next year, they probably won’t be available.
Only Indy mid and highs now.
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As someone pointed out in the thread about this in UWTB, these are likely going to be the same height as the forged at 53mm? Seems kind of pointless, especially with that weird ass Royal style inverted kingpin that's barely shorter than a normal hex nut. They could have just used the Krux pin, being NHS and all that.
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Hope they do the inverted kingpin, then the others might follow, I'm looking at you venture😀
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It's 2019....an extra high Indy would be most fitting....
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It's 2019....an extra high Indy would be most fitting....
Ha it surely would for all this young come and uppers just begging for more pop with fresh legs
But back in my day it was about learning every trick and landing everything, so basically having control and consistency but these days the kids just wanna be able to do whatever they want and prove that they can do it is all
Hopefully the pin is like the royal hex cause it’s easier to adjust than using the Allen key, I love the innovation of the royal inverted pin cause you can use a regular tool to adjust it and it keeps you from sticking on Smith’s and feebles and gives you more confidence in being okay landing sloppily on to a grind cause you can just run with it without sticking and eating it
The mid has to definitely just be a stage 10 standard but improved with stage 11 turning and clearance
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It's 2019....an extra high Indy would be most fitting....
Ha it surely would for all this young come and uppers just begging for more pop with fresh legs
But back in my day it was about learning every trick and landing everything, so basically having control and consistency but these days the kids just wanna be able to do whatever they want and prove that they can do it is all
Hopefully the pin is like the royal hex cause it’s easier to adjust than using the Allen key, I love the innovation of the royal inverted pin cause you can use a regular tool to adjust it and it keeps you from sticking on Smith’s and feebles and gives you more confidence in being okay landing sloppily on to a grind cause you can just run with it without sticking and eating it
The mid has to definitely just be a stage 10 standard but improved with stage 11 turning and clearance
Or just remake a stage 7/8 with better qc and call it a day, every stage since then has been New Coke.
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But back in my day it was about learning every trick and landing everything, so basically having control and consistency but these days the kids just wanna be able to do whatever they want and prove that they can do it is all
For someone showing such an intrest in understanding details and technicalities of gear you really dissapoint with this wack sweeping statement
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It's 2019....an extra high Indy would be most fitting....
Ha it surely would for all this young come and uppers just begging for more pop with fresh legs
But back in my day it was about learning every trick and landing everything, so basically having control and consistency but these days the kids just wanna be able to do whatever they want and prove that they can do it is all
Hopefully the pin is like the royal hex cause it’s easier to adjust than using the Allen key, I love the innovation of the royal inverted pin cause you can use a regular tool to adjust it and it keeps you from sticking on Smith’s and feebles and gives you more confidence in being okay landing sloppily on to a grind cause you can just run with it without sticking and eating it
The mid has to definitely just be a stage 10 standard but improved with stage 11 turning and clearance
Or just remake a stage 7/8 with better qc and call it a day, every stage since then has been New Coke.
Ooooooo do it for rowley!! Let’s get this in motion, bring back the stage 7 version.2 for rowley, so he doesn’t have to scavenger anymore and we get the best stage Indy’s back
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But back in my day it was about learning every trick and landing everything, so basically having control and consistency but these days the kids just wanna be able to do whatever they want and prove that they can do it is all
For someone showing such an intrest in understanding details and technicalities of gear you really dissapoint with this wack sweeping statement
Ur wack, I bet I could skunk you in a game of skate, you probably can’t even kickflip or have those wack mobbed kinflips and only know how to varial flip
You probably just do no complies, Ollie over stuff, wall ride stuff, think slappies are the most skilled coolest grinds and wear dickies
Yeah that’s right I’m calling you out
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Keep typing just to type, you're pretty good at it
I was speaking to your legitimacy and you flop like a park ranger on a power trip
Sick
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Ollieing over stuff is the best and slappies are the coolest, come on.
Side question, what years did Indy do the stage 7/8's. About '93-'05? I'm wondering if they're hesitant to revisit those stages because Indy's were definitely less popular during that period.
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Keep typing just to type, you're pretty good at it
I was speaking to your legitimacy and you flop like a park ranger on a power trip
Sick
Bro I’m too legit to quit, also I don’t even know what I was typing
Anyways even if I’m not legit or cool enough for you I don’t care, skateboardings got no rules
Whatever I think is cool is probably lame to you and whatever your about is probably lame to me but at the end of the day we’re all rejects of society who have fun playing with skateboards being above the age of 14
Slappies are fun and Ollie’s are also fun
Turns out this whole time talking about stage 7 reboot is actuallly secretly the mid height they’re working on so rowley can be happy and the slap community
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Sarcasm aside, it's bizarre they already have a product mold that fits the bill of what they (sort of) are trying to do, but they won't do it. I mean, Tershay has gone on record as saying it's a big reason he left and started Ace. I understand brands not wanting to be regressive but they're just limping back towards what Stage 7 and 8's did perfectly.
I don't necessarily agree it would be pandering (to slap or Rowley) or nostalgia-driven to reincorporate their own designs that were objectively better. The designer of the Stage XI said in his Jenkem interview he wanted the XI's to be like the 7's and 8's. They aint, but XII's could be.
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Sarcasm aside, it's bizarre they already have a product mold that fits the bill of what they (sort of) are trying to do, but they won't do it. I mean, Tershay has gone on record as saying it's a big reason he left and started Ace. I understand brands not wanting to be regressive but they're just limping back towards what Stage 7 and 8's did perfectly.
I don't necessarily agree it would be pandering (to slap or Rowley) or nostalgia-driven to reincorporate their own designs that were objectively better. The designer of the Stage XI said in his Jenkem interview he wanted the XI's to be like the 7's and 8's. They aint, but XII's could be.
We want the stage 7 reboot!!
Cmon Indy just give it to us
Thunders over here killin ya
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People forget just how shitty the kingpin clearance was on Stage 7 and Stage 8. If they came out today, nobody would skate them and you all would be complaining about how it needs to have Stage 11 clearance
Seriously, it's about as much room as a Venture Low.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/36YAAOSw2SxdKjtw/s-l1600.jpg)
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People forget just how shitty the kingpin clearance was on Stage 7 and Stage 8. If they came out today, nobody would skate them and you all would be complaining about how it needs to have Stage 11 clearance
Seriously, it's about as much room as a Venture Low.
Completely true. The axle's also slipped terribly on Stage 8's.
Edit: I guess I should contextualize my mini-rants. A straight up clone of a 7/8 would be unappealing, the 7's hangers look ridiculous and 8's had some issues. But the bones of the design and the geometry are, for me, better than XI's and their drawbacks. I keep a set of 8's around and comparing them to XI's, it's no contest to me. But you're right, they're far from perfect.
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People forget just how shitty the kingpin clearance was on Stage 7 and Stage 8. If they came out today, nobody would skate them and you all would be complaining about how it needs to have Stage 11 clearance
Seriously, it's about as much room as a Venture Low.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/36YAAOSw2SxdKjtw/s-l1600.jpg)
Those look fine to me maybe even perfect as the new Indy mid, just need to be updated with quality improvements like no slip axle and stronger material and such
Venture low clearance was good for me, heck even my stage XI lows have decent clearance
Only royals, yes the new one even the standards with the reg kingpin, have clearance issues
So far a lot of trucks these days even the low versions have decent clearance
Not as good as a krux, Indy or any of the hi trucks that you can easily Smith to feeble without a scratch but good enough you don’t stick just from an uneven 50-50
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People forget just how shitty the kingpin clearance was on Stage 7 and Stage 8. If they came out today, nobody would skate them and you all would be complaining about how it needs to have Stage 11 clearance
Seriously, it's about as much room as a Venture Low.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/36YAAOSw2SxdKjtw/s-l1600.jpg)
Those look fine to me maybe even perfect as the new Indy mid, just need to be updated with quality improvements like no slip axle and stronger material and such
Venture low clearance was good for me, heck even my stage XI lows have decent clearance
Only royals, yes the new one even the standards with the reg kingpin, have clearance issues
So far a lot of trucks these days even the low versions have decent clearance
Not as good as a krux, Indy or any of the hi trucks that you can easily Smith to feeble without a scratch but good enough you don’t stick just from an uneven 50-50
Maybe this angle will help. trust me, there is almost no clearance on Stage 8's. there is less than the Royal's you're talking about.
Nobody gave a shit about Stage 8's until Rowley said they're all he will skate. They were heavy as hell, 55mm tall and had almost no kingpin clearance. You can like the turn of them but otherwise they were shit trucks
(https://ak1.ostkcdn.com/images/products/gear/L0084119-600.jpg)
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Isn't Rowley a Stage VII dude? But yeah, I still have a couple pairs of Stage VIII 139s and the kingpin clearance is a complete joke. Also their axles slipped so bad even just from hitting the ends on bails that they could become unskateable inside a few weeks. I tried Tensors and Royals out of desperation after a few really rotten pairs of Indies before giving up and going back. Dark times, but at least the trucks turned like a dream.
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Isn't Rowley a Stage VII dude? But yeah, I still have a couple pairs of Stage VIII 139s and the kingpin clearance is a complete joke. Also their axles slipped so bad even just from hitting the ends on bails that they could become unskateable inside a few weeks. I tried Tensors and Royals out of desperation after a few really rotten pairs of Indies before giving up and going back. Dark times, but at least the trucks turned like a dream.
He only skates the stage 7 even today and only swap the bushings and nuts
They just need to make the new mid a stage 7 revamp
It’s a clear answer
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Isn't Rowley a Stage VII dude? But yeah, I still have a couple pairs of Stage VIII 139s and the kingpin clearance is a complete joke. Also their axles slipped so bad even just from hitting the ends on bails that they could become unskateable inside a few weeks. I tried Tensors and Royals out of desperation after a few really rotten pairs of Indies before giving up and going back. Dark times, but at least the trucks turned like a dream.
He only skates the stage 7 even today and only swap the bushings and nuts
They just need to make the new mid a stage 7 revamp
It’s a clear answer
Just fix the kingpin and axle issues and it would be a nearly perfect Indy. I don't care anyway because I've been loving Aces lately, even though about half of them are apparently defective.
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Isn't Rowley a Stage VII dude? But yeah, I still have a couple pairs of Stage VIII 139s and the kingpin clearance is a complete joke. Also their axles slipped so bad even just from hitting the ends on bails that they could become unskateable inside a few weeks. I tried Tensors and Royals out of desperation after a few really rotten pairs of Indies before giving up and going back. Dark times, but at least the trucks turned like a dream.
He only skates the stage 7 even today and only swap the bushings and nuts
They just need to make the new mid a stage 7 revamp
It’s a clear answer
Just fix the kingpin and axle issues and it would be a nearly perfect Indy. I don't care anyway because I've been loving Aces lately, even though about half of them are apparently defective.
Ahahahahhaha your telling me brother
I’m on my second pair of ace 03 lows and somethings up with either the bushing fit or the pivot cup
My pivot cups keep sinking out of the hole and it makes it seem that the pivot stem isn’t securely in the pivot hole
Idk, the first pair the kingpin got loose in 2 sessions but everything was fine
Now I got a warranty set but yeah somethings up with the pivot cup area or something, I guess basically it makes the turning either looser or not stable but I’ll keep riding to see what’s up
Why I ride ace low when they’re made to be loose and should be tall/hi
I like the way they feel and grind and a low version works for me cause I prefer lows, but man that Indy mid
If it’s a stage 7 II like thunder back when they did the 147 II
I’m all over it like nerds at a trek convention
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People forget just how shitty the kingpin clearance was on Stage 7 and Stage 8. If they came out today, nobody would skate them and you all would be complaining about how it needs to have Stage 11 clearance
Seriously, it's about as much room as a Venture Low.
Those look fine to me maybe even perfect as the new Indy mid, just need to be updated with quality improvements like no slip axle and stronger material and such
Venture low clearance was good for me, heck even my stage XI lows have decent clearance
Only royals, yes the new one even the standards with the reg kingpin, have clearance issues
So far a lot of trucks these days even the low versions have decent clearance
Not as good as a krux, Indy or any of the hi trucks that you can easily Smith to feeble without a scratch but good enough you don’t stick just from an uneven 50-50
Maybe this angle will help. trust me, there is almost no clearance on Stage 8's. there is less than the Royal's you're talking about.
Nobody gave a shit about Stage 8's until Rowley said they're all he will skate. They were heavy as hell, 55mm tall and had almost no kingpin clearance. You can like the turn of them but otherwise they were shit trucks
I'm going to politely disagree on all fronts (except for the clearance, Stage 8 clearance is bad).
Here's some comp pics between Stage 11 159 and Stage 8 156 (that was their designation for 8.75" trucks then).
Stage 8's are 11 grams lighter,
(https://i.imgur.com/w4qLMyd.jpg)
Stage 11
(https://i.imgur.com/SVfASgs.jpg)
Stage 8
Stage 8's are mid height at 52mm (Stage 8's on the left)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dycnhds.jpg)
Stage 8's shrink the wheelbase more than Stage 11's. Id say they sit exactly between a Stage 11 and Ace (Stage 8's on the right in this picture), which I think accounts for the better turn even though Stage 11's have the oval yoke.
(https://i.imgur.com/XAUH4Le.jpg)
I always cared about Stage 8's (and to a lesser degree Stage 7's, they were my first trucks but they were old and hand me downs at that point). I stopped skating for a while and when I got back into it around '07ish I bought a new set of Stage 9's, hated them, and the 10's which were even worse (despite having a solid baseplate). Rode used Stage 8's until the 11's came out. I think 11's are solid trucks, but the only plus they have over 8's is the clearance and better construction (which are both important and why I'd pick an 11 over a vintage 7 or 8 any day).
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^ Weird, stage 8 were always listed as 55mm tall and then they went down to 53.5 for Stage 9 and 10 then back to 55 for Stage 11
Also, as far as I'm concerned, 8 and 11 are both heavy as hell but at least with 11 there are lighter options
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^ Weird, stage 8 were always listed as 55mm tall and then they went down to 53.5 for Stage 9 and 10 then back to 55 for Stage 11
Also, as far as I'm concerned, 8 and 11 are both heavy as hell but at least with 11 there are lighter options
They could very well be 53mm, getting trucks to sit totally flat for measurement is always a pain, but they're noticeably shorter than 11's. Same height as my Aces. That jenkem article kept reiterating that 7/8's were 55mm tall and that 11's were going to go back to that, but when I brought it up in a separate thread someone pointed out they absolutely were not 55mm. I don't know if any Indy was ever that tall before the 11.
And for sure, still heavy. And with the bonus of being able to get forged hollows with the 11's, which is what I rode (and still do sometimes) before I switched to Aces. I'd still love to see something from Indy that takes the best parts of their old designs, which is what they were going for with the 11's, just didn't pan out perfectly.
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People forget just how shitty the kingpin clearance was on Stage 7 and Stage 8. If they came out today, nobody would skate them and you all would be complaining about how it needs to have Stage 11 clearance
Seriously, it's about as much room as a Venture Low.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/36YAAOSw2SxdKjtw/s-l1600.jpg)
Those look fine to me maybe even perfect as the new Indy mid, just need to be updated with quality improvements like no slip axle and stronger material and such
Venture low clearance was good for me, heck even my stage XI lows have decent clearance
Only royals, yes the new one even the standards with the reg kingpin, have clearance issues
So far a lot of trucks these days even the low versions have decent clearance
Not as good as a krux, Indy or any of the hi trucks that you can easily Smith to feeble without a scratch but good enough you don’t stick just from an uneven 50-50
Maybe this angle will help. trust me, there is almost no clearance on Stage 8's. there is less than the Royal's you're talking about.
Nobody gave a shit about Stage 8's until Rowley said they're all he will skate. They were heavy as hell, 55mm tall and had almost no kingpin clearance. You can like the turn of them but otherwise they were shit trucks
(https://ak1.ostkcdn.com/images/products/gear/L0084119-600.jpg)
Out of curiosity I checked setups I have in my garage. I have the royals on one of my kids boards and stage 7s on one of mine. Royals (inverted kingpin) have about 2/3 the clearance of the stage 7s, which have half the clearance of stage 11s. Royal clearance was maybe a tiny more than my stage 6s that have stupid long kingpins.
All have better clearance than my mini logos.
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People forget just how shitty the kingpin clearance was on Stage 7 and Stage 8. If they came out today, nobody would skate them and you all would be complaining about how it needs to have Stage 11 clearance
Seriously, it's about as much room as a Venture Low.
Those look fine to me maybe even perfect as the new Indy mid, just need to be updated with quality improvements like no slip axle and stronger material and such
Venture low clearance was good for me, heck even my stage XI lows have decent clearance
Only royals, yes the new one even the standards with the reg kingpin, have clearance issues
So far a lot of trucks these days even the low versions have decent clearance
Not as good as a krux, Indy or any of the hi trucks that you can easily Smith to feeble without a scratch but good enough you don’t stick just from an uneven 50-50
Maybe this angle will help. trust me, there is almost no clearance on Stage 8's. there is less than the Royal's you're talking about.
Nobody gave a shit about Stage 8's until Rowley said they're all he will skate. They were heavy as hell, 55mm tall and had almost no kingpin clearance. You can like the turn of them but otherwise they were shit trucks
Out of curiosity I checked setups I have in my garage. I have the royals on one of my kids boards and stage 7s on one of mine. Royals (inverted kingpin) have about 2/3 the clearance of the stage 7s, which have half the clearance of stage 11s. Royal clearance was maybe a tiny more than my stage 6s that have stupid long kingpins.
All have better clearance than my mini logos.
Stage 7's had totally fine kingpin clearance, especially for the time. 8's are laughably bad, you can almost rest a ruler flat between the hanger and kingpin nut. Doesn't seem to bother Gilbert Crockett however.
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
This certainly piques my interest as a person who has done inverted kingpin conversions on at least 4 sets of Indys over the decade before switching back to Thunder (an old stage 8 set was easiest, they were before splined kingpins so you could just seat the nut in the hex cavity on the bottom. But as others had said, the inital kingpin clearance on the 8's sucked, so the Grindking kingpin was almost a necessity.)
The Stage 8 hanger looks so much better, with a more graceful looking yolk to it. If they could match those aesthetics and turning geometry, while fixing axle slip and kingpin clearance (inverted kingpin will for sure help)... AND offer lighter titanium or hollow axel versions... I might actually consider buying a made-in-China set of Indy's even though I had sworn I would not after news broke they were bailing on USA production.
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
This certainly piques my interest as a person who has done inverted kingpin conversions on at least 4 sets of Indys over the decade before switching back to Thunder (an old stage 8 set was easiest, they were before splined kingpins so you could just seat the nut in the hex cavity on the bottom. But as others had said, the inital kingpin clearance on the 8's sucked, so the Grindking kingpin was almost a necessity.)
The Stage 8 hanger looks so much better, with a more graceful looking yolk to it. If they could match those aesthetics and turning geometry, while fixing axle slip and kingpin clearance (inverted kingpin will for sure help)... AND offer lighter titanium or hollow axel versions... I might actually consider buying a made-in-China set of Indy's even though I had sworn I would not after news broke they were bailing on USA production.
100%. First reason I hated stage 9 was this. Hanger was perfect, if it ain't broke don't fix it
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I know your all gonna disagree but is it me or the thunder 148 and up hangar design kinda resemble the same shape as an old stage 7/8
The way the contours are to the pivot stem
The shape is very similar besides the missing extra meaty bar of metal that Indy’s are known for in the grind area
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I know your all gonna disagree but is it me or the thunder 148 and up hangar design kinda resemble the same shape as an old stage 7/8
The way the contours are to the pivot stem
The shape is very similar besides the missing extra meaty bar of metal that Indy’s are known for in the grind area
Let’s see some side by side pics.
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For anyone looking we still have a couple sets of the low independets in 129,139 and on sale.
http://www.35thave.com/shop/Skate/Trucks/Independent/p/Independent-Trucks-Stage-11-Low-Polished-x26707344.htm
(http://www.35thave.com/shop/Skate/Trucks/Independent/p/Independent-Trucks-Stage-11-Low-Polished-x26707344.htm)
Also saw the new mid, had a sample for a rider to try.I didn't get to scrutinize them, but at some point they will be out.
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For anyone looking we still have a couple sets of the low independets in 129,139 and on sale.
http://www.35thave.com/shop/Skate/Trucks/Independent/p/Independent-Trucks-Stage-11-Low-Polished-x26707344.htm
(http://www.35thave.com/shop/Skate/Trucks/Independent/p/Independent-Trucks-Stage-11-Low-Polished-x26707344.htm)
Also saw the new mid, had a sample for a rider to try.I didn't get to scrutinize them, but at some point they will be out.
Since you saw it... can you confirm if the new mid has an inverted Grind King style kingpin??
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Where on Earth did Crockett say he was riding Stage 7/8 and are there pics?
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Where on Earth did Crockett say he was riding Stage 7/8 and are there pics?
I'll do some more digging later if you want, he's mentioned it in a few interviews. And much like Rowley has done, he's put it out there that he's willing to buy Stage 8's from anyone selling nos sets. About halfway through the article the TM mentions it.
http://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
I don't know if he still does, he posted pic of his setup on insta recently and it looks like he has 11's on there. They have the oval yoke, which is an easy tell for 11's.
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Isn't Rowley a Stage VII dude? But yeah, I still have a couple pairs of Stage VIII 139s and the kingpin clearance is a complete joke. Also their axles slipped so bad even just from hitting the ends on bails that they could become unskateable inside a few weeks. I tried Tensors and Royals out of desperation after a few really rotten pairs of Indies before giving up and going back. Dark times, but at least the trucks turned like a dream.
He only skates the stage 7 even today and only swap the bushings and nuts
They just need to make the new mid a stage 7 revamp
It’s a clear answer
Just fix the kingpin and axle issues and it would be a nearly perfect Indy. I don't care anyway because I've been loving Aces lately, even though about half of them are apparently defective.
Ahahahahhaha your telling me brother
I’m on my second pair of ace 03 lows and somethings up with either the bushing fit or the pivot cup
My pivot cups keep sinking out of the hole and it makes it seem that the pivot stem isn’t securely in the pivot hole
Idk, the first pair the kingpin got loose in 2 sessions but everything was fine
Now I got a warranty set but yeah somethings up with the pivot cup area or something, I guess basically it makes the turning either looser or not stable but I’ll keep riding to see what’s up
Why I ride ace low when they’re made to be loose and should be tall/hi
I like the way they feel and grind and a low version works for me cause I prefer lows, but man that Indy mid
If it’s a stage 7 II like thunder back when they did the 147 II
I’m all over it like nerds at a trek convention
The last time I rode ACE lows (easily 7 years ago) I had bones HARDS in them. It sounds counter intuitive but it worked somehow.
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For anyone looking we still have a couple sets of the low independets in 129,139 and on sale.
http://www.35thave.com/shop/Skate/Trucks/Independent/p/Independent-Trucks-Stage-11-Low-Polished-x26707344.htm
(http://www.35thave.com/shop/Skate/Trucks/Independent/p/Independent-Trucks-Stage-11-Low-Polished-x26707344.htm)
Also saw the new mid, had a sample for a rider to try.I didn't get to scrutinize them, but at some point they will be out.
Since you saw it... can you confirm if the new mid has an inverted Grind King style kingpin??
The ones I saw did not have the inverted kingpin.
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Isn't Rowley a Stage VII dude? But yeah, I still have a couple pairs of Stage VIII 139s and the kingpin clearance is a complete joke. Also their axles slipped so bad even just from hitting the ends on bails that they could become unskateable inside a few weeks. I tried Tensors and Royals out of desperation after a few really rotten pairs of Indies before giving up and going back. Dark times, but at least the trucks turned like a dream.
He only skates the stage 7 even today and only swap the bushings and nuts
They just need to make the new mid a stage 7 revamp
It’s a clear answer
Just fix the kingpin and axle issues and it would be a nearly perfect Indy. I don't care anyway because I've been loving Aces lately, even though about half of them are apparently defective.
Ahahahahhaha your telling me brother
I’m on my second pair of ace 03 lows and somethings up with either the bushing fit or the pivot cup
My pivot cups keep sinking out of the hole and it makes it seem that the pivot stem isn’t securely in the pivot hole
Idk, the first pair the kingpin got loose in 2 sessions but everything was fine
Now I got a warranty set but yeah somethings up with the pivot cup area or something, I guess basically it makes the turning either looser or not stable but I’ll keep riding to see what’s up
Why I ride ace low when they’re made to be loose and should be tall/hi
I like the way they feel and grind and a low version works for me cause I prefer lows, but man that Indy mid
If it’s a stage 7 II like thunder back when they did the 147 II
I’m all over it like nerds at a trek convention
The last time I rode ACE lows (easily 7 years ago) I had bones HARDS in them. It sounds counter intuitive but it worked somehow.
This actually makes the most sense to me: I ride venture lo’s with bones hards all the time. Turn is snappy, or more snappy. Snappier. I’d fuck with ace lo’s for sure
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For kingpin clearance reference (Not mine)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PBsAAOSwNIBdcYE5/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VzcAAOSwiDhdcYEz/s-l1600.jpg)
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For kingpin clearance reference (Not mine)
Those are Stage 7's. Here's the clearance on my 8's,
(https://i.imgur.com/ZKayfmn.jpg)
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Here's the setup for my park board.
Stage VII baseplate, 144 Stage XI hollow hanger, bones bushings, krux downlow kingpin, riptide pivots
Height is 53mm, weight is 355 grms
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Here's the setup for my park board.
Stage VII baseplate, 144 Stage XI hollow hanger, bones bushings, krux downlow kingpin, riptide pivots
Height is 53mm, weight is 355 grms
(https://media1.tenor.com/images/6eb81ab6f4680b9600a44be0d16654ca/tenor.gif?itemid=5808185)
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Here's the setup for my park board.
Stage VII baseplate, 144 Stage XI hollow hanger, bones bushings, krux downlow kingpin, riptide pivots
Height is 53mm, weight is 355 grms
Not to be a hating nerd but how did you determine they’re 53mm tall when your using the standard cast plates?
Indy’s height is either the hangars shape/pivot stem length or the thickness of the baseplates
The reason the stage X were 53mm tall with cast plates was if you compare the hangar on the X and the XI the XI pivot stem is elongated to give it more turning pivot and clearance but has the same shape and triangle ratio with the kingpin/geo to feel like the signature Indy. Stage X pivot stem is really short with barely any room for a deep lean and turn clearance
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Here's the setup for my park board.
Stage VII baseplate, 144 Stage XI hollow hanger, bones bushings, krux downlow kingpin, riptide pivots
Height is 53mm, weight is 355 grms
Not to be a hating nerd but how did you determine they’re 53mm tall when your using the standard cast plates?
Indy’s height is either the hangars shape/pivot stem length or the thickness of the baseplates
The reason the stage X were 53mm tall with cast plates was if you compare the hangar on the X and the XI the XI pivot stem is elongated to give it more turning pivot and clearance but has the same shape and triangle ratio with the kingpin/geo to feel like the signature Indy. Stage X pivot stem is really short with barely any room for a deep lean and turn clearance
These are older bushings, if i threw in some brand spankin new indy stock bushings, they'd probably be 55mm. And the bottom washers aren't stock, just simple flat washers. i measure using a metal MM ruler.
on another setup i have a pair of 146 stage XII w/ bones/krux downlow, and these 7/11s feel exactly the same, just lighter. i love em
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Awesome trucks, shifty! I never thought to throw a stage 11 hanger on an older baseplate but a titanium 149-159 on top of a cast VII plate with the Krux pin is something on my radar now.
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
I also ride lows, sad to hear too cause I did like my 3 sets of Indy lows cause they were legit turning low trucks but hey
That mid with an inverted pin doesn’t sound bad! I wanna see these so bad
Can’t wait
The only legit low trucks I’ve tried so far still in production would have to be ace lows, mini logo, and if you want to consider it any thunder 147 especially the lights, hollow lights, and titanium’s with the forged plates making them around 48-50mm tall
Ventures are okay but don’t turn enough for me and I haven’t tried destructo lows yet
Royal lows are trash, krux lows are odd, and the illustrious thunder 147 low were terrible
145 low are okay
If you still haven’t tried Destructo Lows yet I’d say give them a try. As a kid I only skated really low trucks and when I went from Venture Lows to Destructo I was blown away. They turned way better and didn’t feel like they were designed to only be ridden right. I do think my Ventures typically lasted longer but idk it could have been due to progressing and grinding the Destructos down quicker due to that plus gaining weight.
I’ve switched to Thunder Hollow Lights now but I might have to give Destructos a go again soon even if it’s just for nostalgia.
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
I also ride lows, sad to hear too cause I did like my 3 sets of Indy lows cause they were legit turning low trucks but hey
That mid with an inverted pin doesn’t sound bad! I wanna see these so bad
Can’t wait
The only legit low trucks I’ve tried so far still in production would have to be ace lows, mini logo, and if you want to consider it any thunder 147 especially the lights, hollow lights, and titanium’s with the forged plates making them around 48-50mm tall
Ventures are okay but don’t turn enough for me and I haven’t tried destructo lows yet
Royal lows are trash, krux lows are odd, and the illustrious thunder 147 low were terrible
145 low are okay
If you still haven’t tried Destructo Lows yet I’d say give them a try. As a kid I only skated really low trucks and when I went from Venture Lows to Destructo I was blown away. They turned way better and didn’t feel like they were designed to only be ridden right. I do think my Ventures typically lasted longer but idk it could have been due to progressing and grinding the Destructos down quicker due to that plus gaining weight.
I’ve switched to Thunder Hollow Lights now but I might have to give Destructos a go again soon even if it’s just for nostalgia.
Do it! I'm skating d1 magnesium mids now and they're great!
Edit: Awhile back they did 20% discount codes for all their team riders, they might still work, check instagram.
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
I also ride lows, sad to hear too cause I did like my 3 sets of Indy lows cause they were legit turning low trucks but hey
That mid with an inverted pin doesn’t sound bad! I wanna see these so bad
Can’t wait
The only legit low trucks I’ve tried so far still in production would have to be ace lows, mini logo, and if you want to consider it any thunder 147 especially the lights, hollow lights, and titanium’s with the forged plates making them around 48-50mm tall
Ventures are okay but don’t turn enough for me and I haven’t tried destructo lows yet
Royal lows are trash, krux lows are odd, and the illustrious thunder 147 low were terrible
145 low are okay
If you still haven’t tried Destructo Lows yet I’d say give them a try. As a kid I only skated really low trucks and when I went from Venture Lows to Destructo I was blown away. They turned way better and didn’t feel like they were designed to only be ridden right. I do think my Ventures typically lasted longer but idk it could have been due to progressing and grinding the Destructos down quicker due to that plus gaining weight.
I’ve switched to Thunder Hollow Lights now but I might have to give Destructos a go again soon even if it’s just for nostalgia.
Edit: Awhile back they did 20% discount codes for all their team riders, they might still work, check instagram.
Currently riding the same. Their great
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
I also ride lows, sad to hear too cause I did like my 3 sets of Indy lows cause they were legit turning low trucks but hey
That mid with an inverted pin doesn’t sound bad! I wanna see these so bad
Can’t wait
The only legit low trucks I’ve tried so far still in production would have to be ace lows, mini logo, and if you want to consider it any thunder 147 especially the lights, hollow lights, and titanium’s with the forged plates making them around 48-50mm tall
Ventures are okay but don’t turn enough for me and I haven’t tried destructo lows yet
Royal lows are trash, krux lows are odd, and the illustrious thunder 147 low were terrible
145 low are okay
If you still haven’t tried Destructo Lows yet I’d say give them a try. As a kid I only skated really low trucks and when I went from Venture Lows to Destructo I was blown away. They turned way better and didn’t feel like they were designed to only be ridden right. I do think my Ventures typically lasted longer but idk it could have been due to progressing and grinding the Destructos down quicker due to that plus gaining weight.
I’ve switched to Thunder Hollow Lights now but I might have to give Destructos a go again soon even if it’s just for nostalgia.
Edit: Awhile back they did 20% discount codes for all their team riders, they might still work, check instagram.
Currently riding the same. Their great
Damn now I have to get a set
But now I can’t decide to stick to the lows or try the d1 mid like I planned to cause I wanna know what regular destructors were like but lows are my preference...
Decisions decisions
It’s true I haven’t tried destructo a yet but I have tried almost every other truck, even tensor alloys
Wait I haven’t tried bullets aha
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Since there are no more independent low trucks anymore. Indy will be dropping Indy trucks in mid height to replace the lows. I don’t know when.
They are supposed to have inverted kingpin as well.
I hope they make them in hollow hangers.
I guess low trucks are a dying breed. I still ride lows and I guess only venture trucks still make lows. Out of Indy, venture and thunder.
I also ride lows, sad to hear too cause I did like my 3 sets of Indy lows cause they were legit turning low trucks but hey
That mid with an inverted pin doesn’t sound bad! I wanna see these so bad
Can’t wait
The only legit low trucks I’ve tried so far still in production would have to be ace lows, mini logo, and if you want to consider it any thunder 147 especially the lights, hollow lights, and titanium’s with the forged plates making them around 48-50mm tall
Ventures are okay but don’t turn enough for me and I haven’t tried destructo lows yet
Royal lows are trash, krux lows are odd, and the illustrious thunder 147 low were terrible
145 low are okay
If you still haven’t tried Destructo Lows yet I’d say give them a try. As a kid I only skated really low trucks and when I went from Venture Lows to Destructo I was blown away. They turned way better and didn’t feel like they were designed to only be ridden right. I do think my Ventures typically lasted longer but idk it could have been due to progressing and grinding the Destructos down quicker due to that plus gaining weight.
I’ve switched to Thunder Hollow Lights now but I might have to give Destructos a go again soon even if it’s just for nostalgia.
Edit: Awhile back they did 20% discount codes for all their team riders, they might still work, check instagram.
Currently riding the same. Their great
How do you guys like the turn on them? The casting of the metal looks really good and the mids have some beefy kingpin clearance. I can just never find semi recent info on them.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/B718b4wBXVu/?igshid=1gct7eud8162j
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I find those unattractive :-[
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https://www.instagram.com/p/B718b4wBXVu/?igshid=1gct7eud8162j
Omg it wasn't cap. I wonder if it will just be for smaller sizes, or if it will be made all the way up to 169. A 149 mid could be sick
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the grind king finsta won. hilarious shit
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Lemme find out imma switch back to Indy from venture hahaha 8) fuck the chest
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https://www.instagram.com/p/B718b4wBXVu/?igshid=1gct7eud8162j
Forged Indys are mids tho? @53.5...wonder what NHS consider 'mid' these days? 52? Indy lows were 48.5? Regs are 55..Clearly these are cast, wonder if a forged version would come in around 52mm.
With access to Krux....or pictures of gullwing....GK...DIY...they pick the lamest looking, least amount of clearance fucking method (looking at you Royal) to sell an inverted kingpin stock?
Height and shitty kingpin aside, I wonder if they touched the geo? Shield/cross moniker suggests a change in geo as previously seen from s10 -> s11
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With access to Krux....or pictures of gullwing....GK...DIY...they pick the lamest looking, least amount of clearance fucking method (looking at you Royal) to sell an inverted kingpin stock?
That was my first thought as well - then wondered if it would take a Krux kinpgin.
Then windered if it would come in the hollow or Ti versions.
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These could be dope as long as they don't push out the wheelbase.
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With access to Krux....or pictures of gullwing....GK...DIY...they pick the lamest looking, least amount of clearance fucking method (looking at you Royal) to sell an inverted kingpin stock?
That was my first thought as well - then wondered if it would take a Krux kinpgin.
Then windered if it would come in the hollow or Ti versions.
If they do one thing right, let's hope it's a hex shaped slot in the baseplate (like Film has) so we can use krux pins....don't see why they wouldn't fit, they're made for low trucks as it....
I'm going to guess Indy regs bottom low tops ;)
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They look weird
Hopefully they’re actually good, been on the ace and mini logo train
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They talked about releasing these years ago. Presumed the idea was knocked on the head.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/B718b4wBXVu/?igshid=1gct7eud8162j
Forged Indys are mids tho? @53.5...wonder what NHS consider 'mid' these days? 52? Indy lows were 48.5? Regs are 55..Clearly these are cast, wonder if a forged version would come in around 52mm.
With access to Krux....or pictures of gullwing....GK...DIY...they pick the lamest looking, least amount of clearance fucking method (looking at you Royal) to sell an inverted kingpin stock?
Height and shitty kingpin aside, I wonder if they touched the geo? Shield/cross moniker suggests a change in geo as previously seen from s10 -> s11
Geo changes are usually to the hanger, the pivot and yoke area.
Does the "V" going down to the pivot look shorter? Or it could just be the angle of the pic.
This mid talk kinda weirds me out but I guess it's just a replacement for lows, not the forged "mids"?
Height around 50mm?
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They've changed the cross logo on the pivot housing by putting a shield around it; for Stage IX they put a circle around the cross.
Also, 189s?
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They've changed the cross logo on the pivot housing by putting a shield around it; for Stage IX they put a circle around the cross.
Also, 189s?
Think they're 139s, not sure what the intention of the second pic was.
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Underside hanger change? Not that I see any.
189 was a joke ;)
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2nd pic shows the "M". I'm guessing that means mid. And regular height hangers won't have this "M", just the width number.
Cosmetic change to the logo. Iirc, there was no change to stage 7-8 baseplates other than the logo.
189 seems like it would be inbetween 169 and 215's. What's that? 9.125" and 10"?
189mm = 7.44". Maybe a 7.5" hanger? Add 2.75" for axles and we're at 10.25". New name for 215's?
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2nd pic shows the "M". I'm guessing that means mid. And regular height hangers won't have this "M", just the width number.
Cosmetic change to the logo. Iirc, there was no change to stage 7-8 baseplates other than the logo.
189 seems like it would be inbetween 169 and 215's. What's that? 9.125" and 10"?
189mm = 7.44". Maybe a 7.5" hanger? Add 2.75" for axles and we're at 10.25". New name for 215's?
what does an inverted kingpin do to the wb if the baseplate stays the same? want to gauge my interest in these early lol
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2nd pic shows the "M". I'm guessing that means mid. And regular height hangers won't have this "M", just the width number.
Cosmetic change to the logo. Iirc, there was no change to stage 7-8 baseplates other than the logo.
189 seems like it would be inbetween 169 and 215's. What's that? 9.125" and 10"?
189mm = 7.44". Maybe a 7.5" hanger? Add 2.75" for axles and we're at 10.25". New name for 215's?
what does an inverted kingpin do to the wb if the baseplate stays the same? want to gauge my interest in these early lol
Just the kingpin shouldn't change wb but these are mids so idk. And I've never looked closely at lows.
The size molded onto the hanger is making me nervous. Could Stage 12 be inbound? I'm hoping just a cosmetic change to the regulars, or none at all.
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2nd pic shows the "M". I'm guessing that means mid. And regular height hangers won't have this "M", just the width number.
Cosmetic change to the logo. Iirc, there was no change to stage 7-8 baseplates other than the logo.
189 seems like it would be inbetween 169 and 215's. What's that? 9.125" and 10"?
189mm = 7.44". Maybe a 7.5" hanger? Add 2.75" for axles and we're at 10.25". New name for 215's?
what does an inverted kingpin do to the wb if the baseplate stays the same? want to gauge my interest in these early lol
The size molded onto the hanger is making me nervous. Could Stage 12 be inbound? I'm hoping just a cosmetic change to the regulars, or none at all.
Even if it's just cosmetic, there's enough differences that the fine maniacs of this subforum will be able to justify calling them Stage XI Mk II or some variation of that. Same thing sort of happened with Stage X, they updated the yoke design and height and pretended they were still Stage X for a while. I think that "skating is my lifetime sport" blog talks about it.
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It seems like Indy are just wanting to be the laughing stock of the skate industry
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I'm excited for these if the height is around 52-53 mm
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The shield behind the Indy cross looks odd, not digging it.
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arance fucking method (looking at you Royal) to sell an inverted kingpin stock?
Height and shitty kingpin aside, I wonder if they touched the geo? Shield/cross moniker suggests a change in geo as previously seen from s10 -> s11
A new height/new truck will obviously not have the same geo? What do you mean?
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The shield behind the Indy cross looks odd, not digging it.
i don’t mind it at all - something different
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AVloqiXdk0
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Ok dumb question. Are mids just standard indys or is it a step below standard? I think inverted kingpins are ugly but I do think they are effective. What’s everyone saying is ugly about them the king pin? This isn’t like the new Indy stage is it?
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It seems like Indy are just wanting to be the laughing stock of the skate industry
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arance fucking method (looking at you Royal) to sell an inverted kingpin stock?
Height and shitty kingpin aside, I wonder if they touched the geo? Shield/cross moniker suggests a change in geo as previously seen from s10 -> s11
::)
Gawd, this forum....a change to the geo that alters the feel/turn, not just the fucking height of the trucks... you know, like they did with Vs, VIIIs, Xs, XIs...
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It seems like Indy are just wanting to be the laughing stock of the skate industry
Ok dumb question. Are mids just standard indys or is it a step below standard? I think inverted kingpins are ugly but I do think they are effective. What’s everyone saying is ugly about them the king pin? This isn’t like the new Indy stage is it?
We don't know anything about them. Pics show a cast plate and the M so we can assume it's a regular indy but lower.
Yes, the kingpin is ugly and chances are has shit grind clearance (it's the same pin style that Royal uses and has little clearance; granted Film does as well and has decent clearance, so who knows.).
Unless they change the turning geo, it's still an XI to me lowering the truck just makes them Stage XI Mids or lows.
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arance fucking method (looking at you Royal) to sell an inverted kingpin stock?
Height and shitty kingpin aside, I wonder if they touched the geo? Shield/cross moniker suggests a change in geo as previously seen from s10 -> s11
::)
Gawd, this forum....a change to the geo that alters the feel/turn, not just the fucking height of the trucks... you know, like they did with Vs, VIIIs, Xs, XIs...
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It seems like Indy are just wanting to be the laughing stock of the skate industry
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Ok dumb question. Are mids just standard indys or is it a step below standard? I think inverted kingpins are ugly but I do think they are effective. What’s everyone saying is ugly about them the king pin? This isn’t like the new Indy stage is it?
We don't know anything about them. Pics show a cast plate and the M so we can assume it's a regular indy but lower.
Yes, the kingpin is ugly and chances are has shit grind clearance (it's the same pin style that Royal uses and has little clearance; granted Film does as well and has decent clearance, so who knows.).
Unless they change the turning geo, it's still an XI to me lowering the truck just makes them Stage IX Mids or lows.
That's my thought. The last part, not the laughing stock part, wtf lol.
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Indy stages
https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=118665
http://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
I've only seen 1 set of Stage IV's in person. Was a long time ago but I don't remember a height difference vs Stage V.
Stage V-VIII were the same height. And I have a tough time telling any of these apart, other than Stage VIII baseplates..
Stage IX they goofed and changed the height by accident, 55mm to 53.5mm.
Stage X returned the height to 55mm? Or was that Mk II?
Mk II did open up the area around the yoke and Indy said geo change so I'd expect the height change here.
Stage XI is the same geo as Mk II? Just opened up the yoke even more?
Did I get that all correct?
What stage were the old lows? And have they always changed when the regular trucks changed?
Ok, so this new low, they're calling it a mid. And I keep wondering why they never used a forged baseplate..
Someone said maybe 52-53mm high. I think that's too close to forged height, and lows will just turn worse.
Old lows are 48.5mm, right? Add 1.5mm. I'm guessing 50mm height for cast baseplate, 48.5mm for forged.
This should improve the geo and make em carvier, and could also give more kingpin clearance. (Lowering a regular truck is also a geo change)
I'm not saying a similar thing will happen to regular Indy's.
Inverted kingpin? Idk. Maybe they're feeling pressure from da Kang?
Lil bit better kingpin clearance.
I wonder how they're holding it in, probably a nut. A splined rivet nut from the bottom would be nice but idk if that'd also work with regular kingpins.
Btw, when ppl complain about kingpin clearance I look at a set of Stage 8's and just laugh.
And WTF?!? Just realizing this now..
A 189 mid?
The superwide, low truck no one ever asked for?
Maybe mids are gonna be in the 52-53mm range?
Maybe mids are targeting Ace height and will turn well?
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Indy stages
https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=118665
http://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
I've only seen 1 set of Stage IV's in person. Was a long time ago but I don't remember a height difference vs Stage V.
Stage V-VIII were the same height. And I have a tough time telling any of these apart, other than Stage VIII baseplates..
Stage IX they goofed and changed the height by accident, 55mm to 53.5mm.
Stage X returned the height to 55mm? Or was that Mk II?
Mk II did open up the area around the yoke and Indy said geo change so I'd expect the height change here.
Stage XI is the same geo as Mk II? Just opened up the yoke even more?
Did I get that all correct?
What stage were the old lows? And have they always changed when the regular trucks changed?
Ok, so this new low, they're calling it a mid. And I keep wondering why they never used a forged baseplate..
Someone said maybe 52-53mm high. I think that's too close to forged height, and lows will just turn worse.
Old lows are 48.5mm, right? Add 1.5mm. I'm guessing 50mm height for cast baseplate, 48.5mm for forged.
This should improve the geo and make em carvier, and could also give more kingpin clearance. (Lowering a regular truck is also a geo change)
I'm not saying a similar thing will happen to regular Indy's.
Inverted kingpin? Idk. Maybe they're feeling pressure from da Kang?
Lil bit better kingpin clearance.
I wonder how they're holding it in, probably a nut. A splined rivet nut from the bottom would be nice but idk if that'd also work with regular kingpins.
Btw, when ppl complain about kingpin clearance I look at a set of Stage 8's and just laugh.
And WTF?!? Just realizing this now..
A 189 mid?
The superwide, low truck no one ever asked for?
Maybe mids are gonna be in the 52-53mm range?
Maybe mids are targeting Ace height and will turn well?
Stage V and VI can be hard to tell apart, but VII and VIII's are easy. VII's are the first ones to have holes for both old school and new school bolts (so first 6 hole baseplate) with the clunkier looking hanger from V's and VI's. VIII's are the first ones to have the iron cross on the baseplate and the last ones to feature the vertical USA stamp on the bottom (VIII's are by far the easiest to identify because of those two things).
Stage VII-IX were 53mm. I have a set of VIII's and IX's and they're about the same height as XI forged. The Jenkem article muddied the waters when they said XI's are a return to 55mm height of VII and VIII's, simply not the case. Maybe pre stage VII's were 55mm? Don't know, but all the 90's and 2000's era Indy's were definitely not 55mm tall.
The last era of the Stage X's are just stage XI's, bigger yoke and taller overall height. They caught shit twice in a row with IX's (they broke easily) and X's (barely turned).
Think the 189 thing was a joke, likely just 139's with a terrible photo angle.
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Indy stages
https://www.skullandbonesskateboards.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=118665
http://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2018/05/08/look-cult-independent-trucks/
I've only seen 1 set of Stage IV's in person. Was a long time ago but I don't remember a height difference vs Stage V.
Stage V-VIII were the same height. And I have a tough time telling any of these apart, other than Stage VIII baseplates..
Stage IX they goofed and changed the height by accident, 55mm to 53.5mm.
Stage X returned the height to 55mm? Or was that Mk II?
Mk II did open up the area around the yoke and Indy said geo change so I'd expect the height change here.
Stage XI is the same geo as Mk II? Just opened up the yoke even more?
Did I get that all correct?
What stage were the old lows? And have they always changed when the regular trucks changed?
Ok, so this new low, they're calling it a mid. And I keep wondering why they never used a forged baseplate..
Someone said maybe 52-53mm high. I think that's too close to forged height, and lows will just turn worse.
Old lows are 48.5mm, right? Add 1.5mm. I'm guessing 50mm height for cast baseplate, 48.5mm for forged.
This should improve the geo and make em carvier, and could also give more kingpin clearance. (Lowering a regular truck is also a geo change)
I'm not saying a similar thing will happen to regular Indy's.
Inverted kingpin? Idk. Maybe they're feeling pressure from da Kang?
Lil bit better kingpin clearance.
I wonder how they're holding it in, probably a nut. A splined rivet nut from the bottom would be nice but idk if that'd also work with regular kingpins.
Btw, when ppl complain about kingpin clearance I look at a set of Stage 8's and just laugh.
And WTF?!? Just realizing this now..
A 189 mid?
The superwide, low truck no one ever asked for?
Maybe mids are gonna be in the 52-53mm range?
Maybe mids are targeting Ace height and will turn well?
Stage V and VI can be hard to tell apart, but VII and VIII's are easy. VII's are the first ones to have holes for both old school and new school bolts (so first 6 hole baseplate) with the clunkier looking hanger from V's and VI's. VIII's are the first ones to have the iron cross on the baseplate and the last ones to feature the vertical USA stamp on the bottom (VIII's are by far the easiest to identify because of those two things).
Stage VII-IX were 53mm. I have a set of VIII's and IX's and they're about the same height as XI forged. The Jenkem article muddied the waters when they said XI's are a return to 55mm height of VII and VIII's, simply not the case. Maybe pre stage VII's were 55mm? Don't know, but all the 90's and 2000's era Indy's were definitely not 55mm tall.
The last era of the Stage X's are just stage XI's, bigger yoke and taller overall height. They caught shit twice in a row with IX's (they broke easily) and X's (barely turned).
Think the 189 thing was a joke, likely just 139's with a terrible photo angle.
Lol. TBH I completely forget about the baseplate holes ::)
I thought older Indy's were 55mm but now I vaguely remember measuring lightly used Stage 8's and I think they're 53mm.
Maybe lower than the new cast Indy's I have? I should double check that..
I wonder where Jenkem got their height info.
2mm sounds huge but then when I think of it as 0.080" I'm a lil meh.
But then I go back to 2mm sounding huge. That's like 4mm bigger wheels!
I thought I maybe misread 139 too but there's a glint of light that really highlights the 8. Idk, maybe I'm seeing things?
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I thought I maybe misread 139 too but there's a glint of light that really highlights the 8. Idk, maybe I'm seeing things?
189mm would be a 7.5" wide hanger, and overall about a 10" wide truck. So a 215. Gonna go with poor photography of a 139.
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I thought I maybe misread 139 too but there's a glint of light that really highlights the 8. Idk, maybe I'm seeing things?
189mm would be a 7.5" wide hanger, and overall about a 10" wide truck. So a 215. Gonna go with poor photography of a 139.
im just hoping they arent releasing them one size at a time. i just want the dims to know if i should care or not :-\
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I thought I maybe misread 139 too but there's a glint of light that really highlights the 8. Idk, maybe I'm seeing things?
189mm would be a 7.5" wide hanger, and overall about a 10" wide truck. So a 215. Gonna go with poor photography of a 139.
Yep. I was thinking the same thing. But I didn't notice how narrow the hanger looked..
Does look more like a 139 but I swear I can still see an 8.
This is bugging me. I don't want lows, I'm just crazy curious.
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I thought I maybe misread 139 too but there's a glint of light that really highlights the 8. Idk, maybe I'm seeing things?
189mm would be a 7.5" wide hanger, and overall about a 10" wide truck. So a 215. Gonna go with poor photography of a 139.
im just hoping they arent releasing them one size at a time. i just want the dims to know if i should care or not :-\
From a practical standpoint, there's no advantage to them. They already have a good mid truck with forged hollows (unless these are considerably lower...like 50mm, which is borderline a low). And the kingpin they used is pointless. If they used a Krux pin, sure, but even those can have drawbacks. But with the Royal style pin they used, they'll barely be any shorter than a normal hex nut. So a little more clearance with the added headache of everything that can fuck up with an inverted kingpin.
Plus that weird iron cross and shield logo looks like some crusader shit.
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I thought I maybe misread 139 too but there's a glint of light that really highlights the 8. Idk, maybe I'm seeing things?
189mm would be a 7.5" wide hanger, and overall about a 10" wide truck. So a 215. Gonna go with poor photography of a 139.
im just hoping they arent releasing them one size at a time. i just want the dims to know if i should care or not :-\
From a practical standpoint, there's no advantage to them. They already have a good mid truck with forged hollows (unless these are considerably lower...like 50mm, which is borderline a low). And the kingpin they used is pointless. If they used a Krux pin, sure, but even those can have drawbacks. But with the Royal style pin they used, they'll barely be any shorter than a normal hex nut. So a little more clearance with the added headache of everything that can fuck up with an inverted kingpin.
Plus that weird iron cross and shield logo looks like some crusader shit.
yeah they would really have to be 50mm for me to care. i ride thunder forged anyways.if they made an inverted kingpin id jump
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I think indy will do well with the mid truck.
Im not feeling the shield.
Looks like a prophylactic company for the wmsm...
though those guys dont believe in birth control. Its against the war effort to use spermicide.
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I think indy will do well with the mid truck.
Im not feeling the shield.
Looks like a prophylactic company for the wmsm...
though those guys dont believe in birth control. Its against the war effort to use spermicide.
Yes, I see the forged ones all the time😁
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All fucking inverted kingpin trucks never come with a fucking allen key to tighten them.
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All fucking inverted kingpin trucks never come with a fucking allen key to tighten them.
All regular fucking kingpin trucks never come with a fucking hex wrench to tighten them.
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All fucking inverted kingpin trucks never come with a fucking allen key to tighten them.
All regular fucking kingpin trucks never come with a fucking hex wrench to tighten them.
well as soon as all the fucking skate keys come with a fucking allen key the correct size to tighten an inverted kingpin then I wont bitch. but until then im gonna say fuck at least twice in every fucking sentence I type about it. Trucks have had the same fucking size hardware since the dawn of fucking time making a standard. And tons of fucking brands have only been making fucking skate keys for the standard fucking size. So if youre gonna launch a fucking product that requires a different fucking tool than what is "standard" then it should come with the fucking tool. Krux has had that stupid fucking kingpin forever, but the fucking tool is sold separately in a bag of bushings. bring those fucking trucks to skate shop and watch the fucker behind the counter search for 20 minutes to find the fucking allen key. At the skate park "hey got a fucking skate tool?" yeah, "got one for a fucking inverted kingpin?" fuck off. Indy Better have a fucking plan for this or this truck will flop with rest of the fucking inverted kingpin trucks.
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All fucking inverted kingpin trucks never come with a fucking allen key to tighten them.
All regular fucking kingpin trucks never come with a fucking hex wrench to tighten them.
Fuck yeah sk8 or die
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All fucking inverted kingpin trucks never come with a fucking allen key to tighten them.
All regular fucking kingpin trucks never come with a fucking hex wrench to tighten them.
Krux definitely doesn’t include the fucking kingpin Allen key with the aftermarket bushings pack, that doesn’t make any fucking sense. It definitely comes in the pack with the fucking aftermarket inverted kingpin, though. I agree it would be fucking cool of them to include it if you buy a set of their fucking “DLK” trucks. That would make fucking sense, for fucking sure.
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All fucking inverted kingpin trucks never come with a fucking allen key to tighten them.
All regular fucking kingpin trucks never come with a fucking hex wrench to tighten them.
Krux definitely doesn’t include the fucking kingpin Allen key with the aftermarket bushings pack, that doesn’t make any fucking sense. It definitely comes in the pack with the fucking aftermarket inverted kingpin, though. I agree it would be fucking cool of them to include it if you buy a set of their fucking “DLK” trucks. That would make fucking sense, for fucking sure.
they want you to fucking spend that extra fucking money on their fucking company
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Not all Krux come with the downlow kingpin, so it doesn't make sense to include it in the bushings.
However, every downlow kingpin does come with the wrench.
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The indy tool with the cutting die comes with that size allen key it also comes with the hardware size key.
I wouldn't buy that thing again though. I only wanted the die
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thats what i fucking meant the fucking krux kingpin thing, thought it had fucking bushings in there too. The point was that the fucking tool only comes with product sold separately which is fucking bogus. The fucking indy tool is just a fucking rebranded Reflex tool. I havent fucking tried the large end on a DLK but if works then maybe i can stop fucking crying.
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The shield cross on the baseplate is getting a bit too close to tensors logo imo.
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Don't forget Allen Keys rarely came with grind King unless you bought the Kingpin too.
Go to ace get 2 for a buck
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These trucks can be tightened with a 1/2" wrench just like every other set of standard trucks... Are you guys not seeing that there is a hex head around the allen key hole?
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These trucks can be tightened with a 1/2" wrench just like every other set of standard trucks... Are you guys not seeing that there is a hex head around the allen key hole?
He was really just referring to krux when he was complaining about "all companies" that sell downlow kingpin trucks don't include an allen key-which lacks the hex head like silver, royal, film, and now these.
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It's like no one has a bike or ikea furniture.....
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thats what i fucking meant the fucking krux kingpin thing, thought it had fucking bushings in there too. The point was that the fucking tool only comes with product sold separately which is fucking bogus. The fucking indy tool is just a fucking rebranded Reflex tool. I havent fucking tried the large end on a DLK but if works then maybe i can stop fucking crying.
huh
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Who do you think will be the first indy rider to get their name on a mid?
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The shield cross on the baseplate is getting a bit too close to tensors logo imo.
It was mentioned upwards a bit that's its a sort of crusader-ish...better than Nazi-ish tho amiright?
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The shield cross on the baseplate is getting a bit too close to tensors logo imo.
It was mentioned upwards a bit that's its a sort of crusader-ish...better than Nazi-ish tho amiright?
Yeah for sure. nobody crusading anymore. Nazis still exist
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It's like no one has a bike or ikea furniture.....
Bikes and Ikea are metric. Kingpins are 7/32"
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Who do you think will be the first indy rider to get their name on a mid?
the most mid indy rider of course
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It's like no one has a bike or ikea furniture.....
Bikes and Ikea are metric. Kingpins are 7/32"
Okay but any self respecting adult should have a set of basic hand tools (standard and metric) for when the need arises. Reliance on skate-specific tools and the expectation of skate companies to provide you with tools is silly.
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Okay but any self respecting adult should have a set of basic hand tools (standard and metric) for when the need arises. Reliance on skate-specific tools and the expectation of skate companies to provide you with tools is silly.
You are comparing skaters to self respecting adults. That's your first mistake.....
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It's like no one has a bike or ikea furniture.....
Bikes and Ikea are metric. Kingpins are 7/32"
Or you could buy those bundle of allen keys for like $2 and use the one that fits the kingpin.
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It's like no one has a bike or ikea furniture.....
Bikes and Ikea are metric. Kingpins are 7/32"
Okay but any self respecting adult should have a set of basic hand tools (standard and metric) for when the need arises. Reliance on skate-specific tools and the expectation of skate companies to provide you with tools is silly.
Yo I fixed my shower head with an alien workshop skate tool
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I don't think metric allen keys are all that common in the US. I can think of one occasion where I ever needed one and it was something made in Europe decades before that. That said, tools are cool and the more you have the more tuff n manely you are.
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Yeah I just have this huge Allen key thing for bikes and I only use like two of em....shit never bothered me....
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It's like no one has a bike or ikea furniture.....
Bikes and Ikea are metric. Kingpins are 7/32"
Okay but any self respecting adult should have a set of basic hand tools (standard and metric) for when the need arises. Reliance on skate-specific tools and the expectation of skate companies to provide you with tools is silly.
Yo I fixed my shower head life with an alien workshop skate tool
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I don't think metric allen keys are all that common in the US. I can think of one occasion where I ever needed one and it was something made in Europe decades before that. That said, tools are cool and the more you have the more tuff n manely you are.
Should be easy to find metric at Sears or Kmart. Lots car stuff is metric now, even domestics.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/25-piece-extra-long-hex-key-set-5962.html
$6 for metric and standard
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what bushes should I run in my Mindy?
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Krux do sell the tool desperately. It's like $3.
https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/dlk-kingpin-tool-truck-acc-krux
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what bushes should I run in my Mindy?
the normal ones
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"oh mindy!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQXU6mhV4-o
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I've been rocking Krux/Grindking kingpins in Indy's and then Thunders for the last 5 or 6 years. While I prefer how low those inverted kingpins are versus these Royal/Film style kingpins, it is convenient to be able to use a normal 9/16ths wrench to adjust it.
That said, with all of this discussion about how hard it is to find an allen key that works with these kingpins. If they are like GK and Krux, they will be a 7/32 inch allen. I feel like at least at first, Indy might include a allen wrench with it like Krux did when they first introduced the Downlows back in the day.
But, if they don't, consider buying this Pig tool. It's the best tool I've ever had honestly, and has the 7/32 allen built in. Plus with a 3 prong wrench instead of the 2 on a standard Unit tool, you can get more leverage when setting up your board too. Plus, axel re-threader!
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41olHzj3AIL._AC_.jpg)
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I've been rocking Krux/Grindking kingpins in Indy's and then Thunders for the last 5 or 6 years. While I prefer how low those inverted kingpins are versus these Royal/Film style kingpins, it is convenient to be able to use a normal 9/16ths wrench to adjust it.
That said, with all of this discussion about how hard it is to find an allen key that works with these kingpins. If they are like GK and Krux, they will be a 7/32 inch allen. I feel like at least at first, Indy might include a allen wrench with it like Krux did when they first introduced the Downlows back in the day.
But, if they don't, consider buying this Pig tool. It's the best tool I've ever had honestly, and has the 7/32 allen built in. Plus with a 3 prong wrench instead of the 2 on a standard Unit tool, you can get more leverage when setting up your board too. Plus, axel re-threader!
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41olHzj3AIL._AC_.jpg)
cool, take your trucks off to rethread. the reflex tool is where its at when it comes to rethreading. I didnt notice the kingpin head has a hex pattern to fit 1/2" socket so im less biffed about the allen key thing.
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It's like no one has a bike or ikea furniture.....
Bikes and Ikea are metric. Kingpins are 7/32"
Okay but any self respecting adult should have a set of basic hand tools (standard and metric) for when the need arises. Reliance on skate-specific tools and the expectation of skate companies to provide you with tools is silly.
9/16 the fuck you talking about? 14mm too
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It's like no one has a bike or ikea furniture.....
Bikes and Ikea are metric. Kingpins are 7/32"
Okay but any self respecting adult should have a set of basic hand tools (standard and metric) for when the need arises. Reliance on skate-specific tools and the expectation of skate companies to provide you with tools is silly.
Calm down there, he's talking about inverted kingpin allen wrenches, not normal wrenches for kingpin nuts.
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https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/polished-215-standard-independent-skateboard-trucks
Just noticed this. 215's have a 187mm hanger. Makes sense that 189's would be a 215 replacement.
https://sk8supply.com/products/independent-215-trucks-silver-10-set-of-2
SOLD OUT UNTIL APRIL...
Place your order now to get in line, the next batch will Go Quick
https://www.warehouseskateboards.com/independent-215-stage-10-standard-183mm-mid-raw-longboard-trucks-10-axle-set-of-2
Placeholder page?
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I've been rocking Krux/Grindking kingpins in Indy's and then Thunders for the last 5 or 6 years. While I prefer how low those inverted kingpins are versus these Royal/Film style kingpins, it is convenient to be able to use a normal 9/16ths wrench to adjust it.
That said, with all of this discussion about how hard it is to find an allen key that works with these kingpins. If they are like GK and Krux, they will be a 7/32 inch allen. I feel like at least at first, Indy might include a allen wrench with it like Krux did when they first introduced the Downlows back in the day.
But, if they don't, consider buying this Pig tool. It's the best tool I've ever had honestly, and has the 7/32 allen built in. Plus with a 3 prong wrench instead of the 2 on a standard Unit tool, you can get more leverage when setting up your board too. Plus, axel re-threader!
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41olHzj3AIL._AC_.jpg)
I really like the Pig tool. Gave away my classic UNIT tool because of it. Nowadays I use the Pig tool for maintenance, the Silver tool for setups, and the Paris/Ace tool on the go. But the Pig was invaluable when I was using Krux kingpins.
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The photos make it hard to tell if the kingpin clearance is shit or not. If it is, even with the inverted kingpin, you'll just end up unnecessarily hitting it like the royal trucks after skating them for a while, granted they're smoothed out. I wonder why no one just makes some sort of smooth top nut/washer that would be compatible with any truck since you could just screw it on. Seems like the baseplate had to be changed since they've got to get the threads for the kingpin in there. I wonder if it's the same height and geo as the forged trucks, without actually being forged and with a modified baseplate just to fit the inverted kingpin. Thus it wouldn't actually be changing the overall feel/turn/geo too much. I don't care about the shield, that'll get ground off in a day.
Side note but whenever people mention royal trucks I get marginally curious since I've never even seen them in the wild. I see some threads where they are considered garbage:
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=98466.0
And other reviews where they're apparently better than ace?
https://skateboardingismylifetimesport.blogspot.com/2012/06/149-truck-comparison-test-final-results_04.html
Makes me semi wanna try them but I know I'd hate them with the kingpin clearance being exceptionally shit
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I wonder why no one just makes some sort of smooth top nut/washer that would be compatible with any truck since you could just screw it on. Seems like the baseplate had to be changed since they've got to get the threads for the kingpin in there.
I get what you mean, like a cap....luckily we have these:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/610IAsz26PL._AC_SY679_.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/Krux-Hollow-Downlow-Kingpin-Silver/dp/B01AS5QDPC/ref=asc_df_B01AS5QDPC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81269356449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509 (https://www.amazon.com/Krux-Hollow-Downlow-Kingpin-Silver/dp/B01AS5QDPC/ref=asc_df_B01AS5QDPC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81269356449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509)
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I wonder why no one just makes some sort of smooth top nut/washer that would be compatible with any truck since you could just screw it on. Seems like the baseplate had to be changed since they've got to get the threads for the kingpin in there.
I get what you mean, like a cap....luckily we have these:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/610IAsz26PL._AC_SY679_.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/Krux-Hollow-Downlow-Kingpin-Silver/dp/B01AS5QDPC/ref=asc_df_B01AS5QDPC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81269356449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509 (https://www.amazon.com/Krux-Hollow-Downlow-Kingpin-Silver/dp/B01AS5QDPC/ref=asc_df_B01AS5QDPC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81269356449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509)
Yeah these area great. No fuckin clue why indy wouldn't just take the krux kingpin and use that instead. Less RnD and a better result, unless maybe they don't wanna cut into krux sales? I get you need an hex key but the end result is generally much better than the "royal" alternative. I will say, a cap/nut would be especially cool since you wouldn't have to fuck around knocking out kingpins and locktighting bolts in the baseplate if it doesn't fit the nut etc. With that said krux are the gold standard for this, super cool they let people get them aftermarket. God I wish krux would turn more lol
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What's the bottom of the Krux top washer look like? Looks cupped, but does the bushing rest against a flat surface?
You're asking for a nut + washer combo?
That's called a flange nut. Lil bit tougher to find a nylon locknut version.
And unless you can find something really low profile (thin) it won't help height-wise.
Someone recently said 3/64" thick for Bones washers? I'll look for the post..
edit.. https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3229165#msg3229165
Look for a shim with 3/4" od, 3/8" id, then choose your thickness..
3/64" = 0.46875", ~1.2mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/90107a127 washer 0.040-0.060" thickness range, 1-1.5mm..
https://www.mcmaster.com/91877a132 Mil Spec washer 0.073-0.083" range, 1.85-2.11mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/93298a135
3/8-24 Nylon-Insert Flange Locknut
13/32", 0.4625", ~10mm height
https://www.mcmaster.com/94945a218 <- normal kingpin nut
Thin Nylon-Insert Locknut
17/64", 0.265625", ~7mm height
~0.2" difference is more than the thickness of a washer
https://www.mcmaster.com/90585a069
Similar to Krux bolt but idk length
Tough part is finding partially threaded with a smooth shank
https://www.mcmaster.com/90068a045
Similar to Krux top washer but od looks bigger
-
What's the bottom of the Krux top washer look like? Looks cupped, but does the bushing rest against a flat surface?
You're asking for a nut + washer combo?
That's called a flange nut. Lil bit tougher to find a nylon locknut version.
And unless you can find something really low profile (thin) it won't help height-wise.
Someone recently said 3/64" thick for Bones washers? I'll look for the post..
edit.. https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3229165#msg3229165
Look for a shim with 3/4" od, 3/8" id, then choose your thickness..
3/64" = 0.46875", ~1.2mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/90107a127 washer 0.040-0.060" thickness range, 1-1.5mm..
https://www.mcmaster.com/91877a132 Mil Spec washer 0.073-0.083" range, 1.85-2.11mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/93298a135
3/8-24 Nylon-Insert Flange Locknut
13/32", 0.4625", ~10mm height
https://www.mcmaster.com/94945a218 <- normal kingpin nut
Thin Nylon-Insert Locknut
17/64", 0.265625", ~7mm height
~0.2" difference is more than the thickness of a washer
https://www.mcmaster.com/90585a069
Similar to Krux bolt but idk length
Tough part is finding partially threaded with a smooth shank
https://www.mcmaster.com/90068a045
Similar to Krux top washer but od looks bigger
Oh yeah them I'm talking about a flange nut designed specifically for trucks. The "washer" part would better cover the bushing, and the nut part could be slightly rounded. Alternatively, the nut could be recessed in the washer like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/miVDq5V.png)
I am sorry for my terrible illustration
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Anyone know when these will be available?
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The bottom of the krux washers do cut into the bushing and imo does change the turn of the truck. Krepers are better.
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I wonder why no one just makes some sort of smooth top nut/washer that would be compatible with any truck since you could just screw it on. Seems like the baseplate had to be changed since they've got to get the threads for the kingpin in there.
I get what you mean, like a cap....luckily we have these:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/610IAsz26PL._AC_SY679_.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/Krux-Hollow-Downlow-Kingpin-Silver/dp/B01AS5QDPC/ref=asc_df_B01AS5QDPC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81269356449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509 (https://www.amazon.com/Krux-Hollow-Downlow-Kingpin-Silver/dp/B01AS5QDPC/ref=asc_df_B01AS5QDPC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81269356449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509)
Yeah these area great. No fuckin clue why indy wouldn't just take the krux kingpin and use that instead. Less RnD and a better result, unless maybe they don't wanna cut into krux sales? I get you need an hex key but the end result is generally much better than the "royal" alternative. I will say, a cap/nut would be especially cool since you wouldn't have to fuck around knocking out kingpins and locktighting bolts in the baseplate if it doesn't fit the nut etc. With that said krux are the gold standard for this, super cool they let people get them aftermarket. God I wish krux would turn more lol
Seems 'stupid' until you start thinking that the downlow pin is really all Krux has going for it (for those people that care). There is a licence fee or anything since NHS OWNS Krux but they don't fully own Indy (fausto/emerico do even tho novak was a founder of indy)...so they can't just make it happen.
It also lends to the reason we're getting that shit inverted pin (that everyone is going to swap to krux anyway lol).
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What's the bottom of the Krux top washer look like? Looks cupped, but does the bushing rest against a flat surface?
You're asking for a nut + washer combo?
That's called a flange nut. Lil bit tougher to find a nylon locknut version.
And unless you can find something really low profile (thin) it won't help height-wise.
Someone recently said 3/64" thick for Bones washers? I'll look for the post..
edit.. https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3229165#msg3229165
Look for a shim with 3/4" od, 3/8" id, then choose your thickness..
3/64" = 0.46875", ~1.2mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/90107a127 washer 0.040-0.060" thickness range, 1-1.5mm..
https://www.mcmaster.com/91877a132 Mil Spec washer 0.073-0.083" range, 1.85-2.11mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/93298a135
3/8-24 Nylon-Insert Flange Locknut
13/32", 0.4625", ~10mm height
https://www.mcmaster.com/94945a218 <- normal kingpin nut
Thin Nylon-Insert Locknut
17/64", 0.265625", ~7mm height
~0.2" difference is more than the thickness of a washer
https://www.mcmaster.com/90585a069
Similar to Krux bolt but idk length
Tough part is finding partially threaded with a smooth shank
https://www.mcmaster.com/90068a045
Similar to Krux top washer but od looks bigger
Oh yeah them I'm talking about a flange nut designed specifically for trucks. The "washer" part would better cover the bushing, and the nut part could be slightly rounded. Alternatively, the nut could be recessed in the washer like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/miVDq5V.png)
I am sorry for my terrible illustration
You could also use a flange rivet nut (as long as it covers the top of the bushing for protection; I spent a while online last night trying to find something to fuck around with, couldn't find and rivet nuts that had a big enough flange AND were hex/allen 'inside' so you can tighteing properly...also, none of them seem to be locknuts.
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I wonder why no one just makes some sort of smooth top nut/washer that would be compatible with any truck since you could just screw it on. Seems like the baseplate had to be changed since they've got to get the threads for the kingpin in there.
I get what you mean, like a cap....luckily we have these:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/610IAsz26PL._AC_SY679_.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/Krux-Hollow-Downlow-Kingpin-Silver/dp/B01AS5QDPC/ref=asc_df_B01AS5QDPC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81269356449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509 (https://www.amazon.com/Krux-Hollow-Downlow-Kingpin-Silver/dp/B01AS5QDPC/ref=asc_df_B01AS5QDPC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81269356449&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587017896&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16226500283542134714&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031040&hvtargid=pla-826264547509)
Yeah these area great. No fuckin clue why indy wouldn't just take the krux kingpin and use that instead. Less RnD and a better result, unless maybe they don't wanna cut into krux sales? I get you need an hex key but the end result is generally much better than the "royal" alternative. I will say, a cap/nut would be especially cool since you wouldn't have to fuck around knocking out kingpins and locktighting bolts in the baseplate if it doesn't fit the nut etc. With that said krux are the gold standard for this, super cool they let people get them aftermarket. God I wish krux would turn more lol
ikea gives you free allen keys if you buy the right shit
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ikea gives you free allen keys if you buy the right shit
Ikea allen keys are all metric. Because this is skateboarding, everything is imperial. The kinpin allen is 7/32" and isn't close enough to any metric size to be usable without them.
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ikea gives you free allen keys if you buy the right shit
Ikea allen keys are all metric. Because this is skateboarding, everything is imperial. The kinpin allen is 7/32" and isn't close enough to any metric size to be usable without them.
5.5mm would be pretty close and should work.
7/32" = 0.21875"
0.21875" x 25.4 = 5.55625mm
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5.5mm is not a standard size for a metric allen key though, as standard they come in 1mm increments after 4.0mm
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5.5mm is not a standard size for a metric allen key though, as standard they come in 1mm increments after 4.0mm
https://lmgtfy.com/?q=5.5mm+allen+key
https://handtoolessentials.com/blog/tools/hex-key-conversions-allen-wrench/
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TITAN-1-4-in-Drive-5-5-mm-Hex-Bit-Socket-TIT15601/302071183
https://www.truevalue.com/5-5mm-hex-l-key
Edit. Trying to keep post count down..
Ok. Nuts and bolts.. Did you sell tools? Or wrench on stuff for decades?
What do you consider "standard"?
If I can usually get it in a kit/set I call that a standard size..
Or easily find a single key/socket/T-tool
You're also just thinking America? Metric will be way easier to find in the rest of the world..
https://www.harborfreight.com/metric-t-handle-hex-key-set-10-pc-69370.html
Size(s)
2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 4.5mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm
https://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-metric-ball-end-hex-key-set-96416.html
1.27mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 4.5mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-hex-key-set-94597.html $2
1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Metric-Short-Arm-Hex-Key-Set-10-Piece-HSAHKM10PCN/204153257
$5.50 set
1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 7mm
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-13-key-Metric-Hex-Key-Set/50385484
1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 mm
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/STW55M/5-5MM-7-32-HEX-SPINNING-T-HANDLE/
Listed as 5.5mm and 7/32"
https://www.craftsman.com/products/hand-tools/hex-keys
Oh. Craftsman no likely 5.5mm
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/hand-tools/hex-keys/folding-hex-keys/
Ok. I'll concede that it's not standard for big American brands
https://www.snaponindustrialbrands.com/DSN/wwwsnaponindustrialbrandscom/Content/PDF/Snap-on%20Industrial%20Brands%20CAT4%20236.pdf
Only have 2.5mm. Williams make their hex keys? And Armstrong makes their ratchets and sockets?
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i never said they didn't exist, i said they were non standard.
i spent the last 12 years of my life selling nuts and bolts.
edit: to clarify what i'm getting at here, chances are no one will have a 5.5mm allen key just lying around, they don't generally come in a set, so you'd have to go and buy one specifically. if you're going to go and by one specifically, but a 7/32" one, as it's the correct size for the kingpin.
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it comes in the $7 harbor freight metric t handle set, doesnt get any more standard than that
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-pc-metric-t-handle-hex-key-set-69370.html
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The heigth on the Indy mid should be 53.5 MM right? Ain't that the same heigth as Thunders?
I also wonder if high trucks cause ghost pop for me? I think my Indy Hollows are 55 mm. Before that I rode Thunders for a decade.
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The heigth on the Indy mid should be 53.5 MM right? Ain't that the same heigth as Thunders?
I also wonder if high trucks cause ghost pop for me? I think my Indy Hollows are 55 mm. Before that I rode Thunders for a decade.
No idea what the mids will be, but currently the models with forged plates are 53.5mm, and cast plates (standards and regular hollows) are 55mm. Lows are 48.5mm.
Ghost pop is a common complaint on higher trucks (55mm as in your case) you just gotta delay the timing of your pop
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The heigth on the Indy mid should be 53.5 MM right? Ain't that the same heigth as Thunders?
I also wonder if high trucks cause ghost pop for me? I think my Indy Hollows are 55 mm. Before that I rode Thunders for a decade.
No idea what the mids will be, but currently the models with forged plates are 53.5mm, and cast plates (standards and regular hollows) are 55mm. Lows are 48.5mm.
Ghost pop is a common complaint on higher trucks (55mm as in your case) you just gotta delay the timing of your pop
Thanks a lot mate. I am on Koston 139 Hollows, I think they have cast baseplates.
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The heigth on the Indy mid should be 53.5 MM right? Ain't that the same heigth as Thunders?
I also wonder if high trucks cause ghost pop for me? I think my Indy Hollows are 55 mm. Before that I rode Thunders for a decade.
No idea what the mids will be, but currently the models with forged plates are 53.5mm, and cast plates (standards and regular hollows) are 55mm. Lows are 48.5mm.
Ghost pop is a common complaint on higher trucks (55mm as in your case) you just gotta delay the timing of your pop
Thanks a lot mate. I am on Koston 139 Hollows, I think they have cast baseplates.
Koston hollows are forged.
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The heigth on the Indy mid should be 53.5 MM right? Ain't that the same heigth as Thunders?
I also wonder if high trucks cause ghost pop for me? I think my Indy Hollows are 55 mm. Before that I rode Thunders for a decade.
No idea what the mids will be, but currently the models with forged plates are 53.5mm, and cast plates (standards and regular hollows) are 55mm. Lows are 48.5mm.
Ghost pop is a common complaint on higher trucks (55mm as in your case) you just gotta delay the timing of your pop
Thanks a lot mate. I am on Koston 139 Hollows, I think they have cast baseplates.
Koston hollows are forged.
Yep. Reynolds are/were cast. Idr what else.
https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/stage-11-hollow-silver-silver-low-independent-skateboard-trucks
These are new, right? Hollow low 129's
There's gonna be 3 different heights? And forged baseplates for 6 possible heights?
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honestly the indy forged baseplates also extend your wheelbase, so it doesn't solve the ghost pop problem.
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honestly the indy forged baseplates also extend your wheelbase, so it doesn't solve the ghost pop problem.
For some, it does. Just depends on what you are used to. Venture and Thunder extend the wheelbase and people always compliment the stability when trying to pop tricks with an extended wheelbase. But for those like me who are used to a shorter wheelbase and a very light feeling tail - ghost pop comes with a longer wheelbase than I am used to.
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Expand Quote
The heigth on the Indy mid should be 53.5 MM right? Ain't that the same heigth as Thunders?
I also wonder if high trucks cause ghost pop for me? I think my Indy Hollows are 55 mm. Before that I rode Thunders for a decade.
No idea what the mids will be, but currently the models with forged plates are 53.5mm, and cast plates (standards and regular hollows) are 55mm. Lows are 48.5mm.
Ghost pop is a common complaint on higher trucks (55mm as in your case) you just gotta delay the timing of your pop
Watch them just use the forged as official 'mids' and with a new cast option but with the inverted pins.
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They just came out with a "coming soon" IG post.
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They just came out with a "coming soon" IG post.
yes they did
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-XYVefJ8tD/
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It’s the same photo and caption from January. I wonder if production was delayed as they are now manufactured in China?
https://www.instagram.com/p/B718b4wBXVu/?igshid=1eq9gh64bchki
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I wonder if production was delayed as they are now manufactured in China?
Most likely. And NHS is also closed for the time being and not shipping to people or shops until May.
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They've been china made for way longer back than January though?
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- 52mm tall hanger for optimal contact point angle on your nose and tail for all-around street skating.
- Shaft Nut baseplate for a rigid and durable solution to lateral movement found in most inverted kingpins. Increases adjustability.
- Sizes: 129, 139, 144, 149, 159
Height reference:
- Indy Low Gravity Cast Baseplates: 48.5mm
- Indy Mid Gravity Cast: 52mm
- Indy Standard Gravity Cast: 55mm
- Indy Standard Forged Baseplates: 53.5mm
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Sounds like they're basically just Films with inferior bushings.
-
- 52mm tall hanger for optimal contact point angle on your nose and tail for all-around street skating.
- Shaft Nut baseplate for a rigid and durable solution to lateral movement found in most inverted kingpins. Increases adjustability.
- Sizes: 129, 139, 144, 149, 159
Height reference:
- Indy Low Gravity Cast Baseplates: 48.5mm
- Indy Mid Gravity Cast: 52mm
- Indy Standard Gravity Cast: 55mm
- Indy Standard Forged Baseplates: 53.5mm
Thinking we're not getting a forged version due to kingpin nut height in the base plate and the fact it would fall between the low and mid (if using forged).
Just going to stick with Forged myself.
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Expand Quote
- 52mm tall hanger for optimal contact point angle on your nose and tail for all-around street skating.
- Shaft Nut baseplate for a rigid and durable solution to lateral movement found in most inverted kingpins. Increases adjustability.
- Sizes: 129, 139, 144, 149, 159
Height reference:
- Indy Low Gravity Cast Baseplates: 48.5mm
- Indy Mid Gravity Cast: 52mm
- Indy Standard Gravity Cast: 55mm
- Indy Standard Forged Baseplates: 53.5mm
Thinking we're not getting a forged version due to kingpin nut height in the base plate and the fact it would fall between the low and mid (if using forged).
Just going to stick with Forged myself.
I still want to try, seems like it might hit all my spots
Round kingpin
Gravity cast
52mm
139
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Wonder what they weigh?
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/imYgMUPR1NFyw4qDgU_vzxTfwPqw6HMHgnjBr7OxsjkMm44HnDMWZh8OxDbeUkqBEkYW23RGIxq4Offit5G51meoDGsSHnEf5AlinR-73kGb28CONKhQg6ZE7NQTPytXyChR_AA1qnw)
If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/imYgMUPR1NFyw4qDgU_vzxTfwPqw6HMHgnjBr7OxsjkMm44HnDMWZh8OxDbeUkqBEkYW23RGIxq4Offit5G51meoDGsSHnEf5AlinR-73kGb28CONKhQg6ZE7NQTPytXyChR_AA1qnw)
If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
We just placed our pre book for the new mids. Arrival December I think I heard??
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/imYgMUPR1NFyw4qDgU_vzxTfwPqw6HMHgnjBr7OxsjkMm44HnDMWZh8OxDbeUkqBEkYW23RGIxq4Offit5G51meoDGsSHnEf5AlinR-73kGb28CONKhQg6ZE7NQTPytXyChR_AA1qnw)
If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
We just placed our pre book for the new mids. Arrival December I think I heard??
Any details on the listing or just 'new indy mids'? Looks like they're just rolling out casts to start with.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/imYgMUPR1NFyw4qDgU_vzxTfwPqw6HMHgnjBr7OxsjkMm44HnDMWZh8OxDbeUkqBEkYW23RGIxq4Offit5G51meoDGsSHnEf5AlinR-73kGb28CONKhQg6ZE7NQTPytXyChR_AA1qnw)
If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
We just placed our pre book for the new mids. Arrival December I think I heard??
Any details on the listing or just 'new indy mids'? Looks like they're just rolling out casts to start with.
The listing? Also just double checked and they’re thinking November hitting stores. Could still be delayed but that what we’re working with
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/imYgMUPR1NFyw4qDgU_vzxTfwPqw6HMHgnjBr7OxsjkMm44HnDMWZh8OxDbeUkqBEkYW23RGIxq4Offit5G51meoDGsSHnEf5AlinR-73kGb28CONKhQg6ZE7NQTPytXyChR_AA1qnw)
If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
We just placed our pre book for the new mids. Arrival December I think I heard??
Any details on the listing or just 'new indy mids'? Looks like they're just rolling out casts to start with.
The listing? If you mean sizes, only 144 149 were available at the time the prebooks went out. Also just double checked and they’re thinking November hitting stores. Could still be delayed but that what we’re working with
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Hope they do the inverted kingpin, then the others might follow, I'm looking at you venture😀
I actually saw that thunder is working on one. I saw a setup video recently where someone said they were testing a pair
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Hope they do the inverted kingpin, then the others might follow, I'm looking at you venture&#128512;
Tell me more.....show us the video.....yes yes
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/imYgMUPR1NFyw4qDgU_vzxTfwPqw6HMHgnjBr7OxsjkMm44HnDMWZh8OxDbeUkqBEkYW23RGIxq4Offit5G51meoDGsSHnEf5AlinR-73kGb28CONKhQg6ZE7NQTPytXyChR_AA1qnw)
If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
We just placed our pre book for the new mids. Arrival December I think I heard??
Any details on the listing or just 'new indy mids'? Looks like they're just rolling out casts to start with.
The listing? If you mean sizes, only 144 149 were available at the time the prebooks went out. Also just double checked and they’re thinking November hitting stores. Could still be delayed but that what we’re working with
I think they will have them in 139 also. Could be the lowest size available in the mids. Not sure if they will come in the 129’s.
They will obviously be replacing the lows. I’m gonna have have to try the mids. Never had a mid or high truck in my life. Always rode lows.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/imYgMUPR1NFyw4qDgU_vzxTfwPqw6HMHgnjBr7OxsjkMm44HnDMWZh8OxDbeUkqBEkYW23RGIxq4Offit5G51meoDGsSHnEf5AlinR-73kGb28CONKhQg6ZE7NQTPytXyChR_AA1qnw)
If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
We just placed our pre book for the new mids. Arrival December I think I heard??
Any details on the listing or just 'new indy mids'? Looks like they're just rolling out casts to start with.
The listing? If you mean sizes, only 144 149 were available at the time the prebooks went out. Also just double checked and they’re thinking November hitting stores. Could still be delayed but that what we’re working with
I think they will have them in 139 also. Could be the lowest size available in the mids. Not sure if they will come in the 129’s.
They will obviously be replacing the lows. I’m gonna have have to try the mids. Never had a mid or high truck in my life. Always rode lows.
You ride indy lows? What size wheel is the max you feel comfortable with? Please and thanks.
Some mids with anyone of those logos in that Jenkem thing would be pretty sick
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If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
We just placed our pre book for the new mids. Arrival December I think I heard??
Any details on the listing or just 'new indy mids'? Looks like they're just rolling out casts to start with.
The listing? If you mean sizes, only 144 149 were available at the time the prebooks went out. Also just double checked and they’re thinking November hitting stores. Could still be delayed but that what we’re working with
I think they will have them in 139 also. Could be the lowest size available in the mids. Not sure if they will come in the 129’s.
They will obviously be replacing the lows. I’m gonna have have to try the mids. Never had a mid or high truck in my life. Always rode lows.
You ride indy lows? What size wheel is the max you feel comfortable with? Please and thanks.
Some mids with anyone of those logos in that Jenkem thing would be pretty sick
Yeah. I ride 139 lows. I’ve only ridden two trucks in my life. Venture and Indy. Rode venture for like 16-17 years, Indy for like 3-4 years or so now.
Only thing I’ve changed was the axle size. Used to be 5.0 low then I went to 5.25 low in venture. Then for Indy. I went straight to 139. They don’t make them anymore but I have like 3 sets saved up.
I ride 51mm, if I ride 52mm I get obviously more wheelbite than the 51. Been riding lows and 51mm for a long time now. Occasionally 50mm but not in a couple years. Got 4 sets of F4’s ready.
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If we're still in the sample stage, it's gonna be a minute.
We just placed our pre book for the new mids. Arrival December I think I heard??
Any details on the listing or just 'new indy mids'? Looks like they're just rolling out casts to start with.
The listing? If you mean sizes, only 144 149 were available at the time the prebooks went out. Also just double checked and they’re thinking November hitting stores. Could still be delayed but that what we’re working with
I think they will have them in 139 also. Could be the lowest size available in the mids. Not sure if they will come in the 129’s.
They will obviously be replacing the lows. I’m gonna have have to try the mids. Never had a mid or high truck in my life. Always rode lows.
You ride indy lows? What size wheel is the max you feel comfortable with? Please and thanks.
Some mids with anyone of those logos in that Jenkem thing would be pretty sick
Yeah. I ride 139 lows. I’ve only ridden two trucks in my life. Venture and Indy. Rode venture for like 16-17 years, Indy for like 3-4 years or so now.
Only thing I’ve changed was the axle size. Used to be 5.0 low then I went to 5.25 low in venture. Then for Indy. I went straight to 139. They don’t make them anymore but I have like 3 sets saved up.
I ride 51mm, if I ride 52mm I get obviously more wheelbite than the 51. Been riding lows and 51mm for a long time now. Occasionally 50mm but not in a couple years. Got 4 sets of F4’s ready.
Thanks!
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Hope they do the inverted kingpin, then the others might follow, I'm looking at you venture&#38;#128512;
Tell me more.....show us the video.....yes yes
https://youtu.be/Kpo9lIGrwJ4
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that kingpin looks great but if that washer bends any more good luck getting anything on it ever again.
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New exploded view drawing inside the lid of those boxes.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CDCb9Q7JDLP/?igshid=b5xhkpc8ucs1
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52mm seems to be the repeated height in the threads, interesting seeing as they are cast plates.
I'll be sticking to my Forged Ti at 53.5mm until they lighten up this mid; can't imagine the kingpin being lighter than stick, so still a heavy indy.
Curious about the geo tho.
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https://youtu.be/FBXV-44uoEY
1:26
Not feeling the inverted kingpin, but 53mm seems cool.
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Super.
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I will try them. Hopefully, nothing too drastic compared to Indy lows
Also, I took am a 7/8 Allen only guy.
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I will try them. Hopefully, nothing too drastic compared to Indy lows
Also, I took am a 7/8 Allen only guy.
What are the lows? 48.5? That’s like switching from venture lo’s to hi’s. These Indy mids are an inventure: venture height (stage 10 ish height no?), the new kingpin has clearance like a venture...
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https://youtu.be/FBXV-44uoEY
1:26
Not feeling the inverted kingpin, but 53mm seems cool.
To be honest, -2mm seems so pointless. It’s still a high truck if you compare to like a Thunder Hi or a Ace High (52mm both right?), Indy lows were 48,5mm. I was expecting something like 51mm tall to be the right in between and a true mid truck. I’m riding Indys with forged baseplates that makes them 53,5mm already. What’s the point?
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1:26
Not feeling the inverted kingpin, but 53mm seems cool.
To be honest, -2mm seems so pointless. It’s still a high truck if you compare to like a Thunder Hi or a Ace High (52mm both right?), Indy lows were 48,5mm. I was expecting something like 51mm tall to be the right in between and a true mid truck. I’m riding Indys with forged baseplates that makes them 53,5mm already. What’s the point?
Super pointless. The Royal style kingpin makes even less sense when you consider that NHS owns Krux and could have easily utilized the down-low (i.e an actual inverted) kingpin. The hybrid thing isn't giving you that much extra clearance, and like you said, 52mm...might as well just ride the forged (and get a lighter truck).
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I'm ok with it....as I kind of expect an Indy to feel taller, just the regs are too tall...if they are a bit lighter, I'll consider them. That clearance looks sick.
I think they were going to do something closer to krux but krux stopped them.
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I'm ok with it....as I kind of expect an Indy to feel taller, just the regs are too tall...if they are a bit lighter, I'll consider them. That clearance looks sick.
I think they were going to do something closer to krux but krux stopped them.
Does Krux have that kind of clout at NHS? Seems like Indy is the cash cow over there. Regardless, glad they axed that wack crusader shield logo from the baseplate.
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I will try them. Hopefully, nothing too drastic compared to Indy lows
Also, I took am a 7/8 Allen only guy.
What are the lows? 48.5? That’s like switching from venture lo’s to hi’s. These Indy mids are an inventure: venture height (stage 10 ish height no?), the new kingpin has clearance like a venture...
I think they are 48 mm for a 139 low.
Found a reference on this page:
https://www.skatewarehouse.co.uk/news/low-vs-high-skateboard-trucks/
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53 kind of makes sense if you're taking in account that Thunder Teams are around 52mm? But realistic I'm not sure how much change that is
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I'm ok with it....as I kind of expect an Indy to feel taller, just the regs are too tall...if they are a bit lighter, I'll consider them. That clearance looks sick.
I think they were going to do something closer to krux but krux stopped them.
Does Krux have that kind of clout at NHS? Seems like Indy is the cash cow over there. Regardless, glad they axed that wack crusader shield logo from the baseplate.
They must as they've been with them forever....it's all under NHS but I'm not sure they are all owned by the same people. Maybe Krux has a trademark on their design....
It's not as bad as the royal one but still looks kinda hokey.....
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Noticed that there is some kind of logo still in front of the baseplate, cross or maybe the mids logo?
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https://youtu.be/FBXV-44uoEY
1:26
Not feeling the inverted kingpin, but 53mm seems cool.
Gawd this video
Santa Cruz on Revive confirmed
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I'm ok with it....as I kind of expect an Indy to feel taller, just the regs are too tall...if they are a bit lighter, I'll consider them. That clearance looks sick.
I think they were going to do something closer to krux but krux stopped them.
Does Krux have that kind of clout at NHS? Seems like Indy is the cash cow over there. Regardless, glad they axed that wack crusader shield logo from the baseplate.
The upcoming Krux K5s are switching over to the same hex/allen kingpin design, along with the threaded baseplates (shaft nut).
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53 kind of makes sense if you're taking in account that Thunder Teams are around 52mm? But realistic I'm not sure how much change that is
Thunders with forged plates are 52.5mm, the team editions have a cast baseplate, and are 53.5mm, the same height as forged Indys.
Having switched from the forged baseplate to the cast baseplate, a mm can feel like a pretty big difference. I'm pretty stoked on the inverted kingpin talk, as I've put Grind King kingpins in my thunders, and it would be rad to get a set that already had the work done and are actually designed for the inverted kingpin. They've got so much kingpin clearance!
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I'm so glad they didn't cave to the loony left on these and put that seriously badass shielded logo on them. That looks so cool. Skating is all about what kinds of vaguely fascistic logos appear on your gear. I'm going to buy so many sets of these just to taste the liberal tears as I walk around town with my right wing freedom setup. There aren't many liberals where I live in rural Idaho but the ones there are will probably blog about how butthurt they got by my setup.
Protip- Try not to mall grab, it makes the logo harder to see. Stickers for better visibility
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Sticking with Ti Forged. Can't see trading for increased weight for .5mm in height reduction just to get a clunky-ass inverted pin.
For those that want a cast plate and a lower truck I guess this will be where it's at?
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Stage 10 with a different kingpin.
Still curious.
Mid is 50-52 in my mind....not sure why I think that.
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The instafeed for that trucks has been '52mm' forever (not officially); that cringe vid was the first real confirmation.
Reynolds is riding (and "loves them")
Still not sure why people just don't crib from Grind King:
No nut needed.
(https://i2.wp.com/grindking.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DISRUPTOR-00726_2048x2048.jpg?fit=2048%2C1368&ssl=1)
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The upcoming Krux K5s are switching over to the same hex/allen kingpin design, along with the threaded baseplates (shaft nut).
the kingpins are going to be threaded in fr? snap city lmfao
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Already mentioned this in another thread, but switching out bushings is gonna be a biiiiitch.
Can you imagine just needing to switch out like a busted top bushing real quick or like a slightly bent washer or something? What could’ve been a quick 30 second task just became a whole damn ordeal.
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Guess it depends on if the baseplate nut thing locks into place or not (doubtful) - having to remove the entire truck to swap bushings would suck.
The while truck/design is like something no one really wanted. I get having hex and allen but...
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The upcoming Krux K5s are switching over to the same hex/allen kingpin design, along with the threaded baseplates (shaft nut).
you mean like how krux currently has threaded kingpins?
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The upcoming Krux K5s are switching over to the same hex/allen kingpin design, along with the threaded baseplates (shaft nut).
I'm not a krux expert but I thought they just had a hex bolt in the baseplate. thats a lot stronger than threading into the literal baseplate and also won't ruin your trucks if you crossthread.
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The upcoming Krux K5s are switching over to the same hex/allen kingpin design, along with the threaded baseplates (shaft nut).
To no one in particular: no one's threading a baseplate. You can see on the preview box that was posted on insta the mids have a steel nut insert like every other inverted kingpin. Even looks like there's splines underneath the hex-head so that shit doesn't drop when you need to change bushings/washers.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3353649#msg3353649
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They hexed the plate for that sleeve to fit, but I still don't see how the 'splines' would keep it from falling out (spinning yes but even then, the hex portion would stop that as well); my guess: given how long it is, the sleeve sits flush to the bottom of the plate so that it can't wiggle around/down.
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Each of us will have to buy a set just to find out how it works.
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Unless they are covered in rainbows...I'm not buying them....
This just in....krux did that already and have truck blocked Indy....foiled again...
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im mostly curious about what theyll do to the wheelbase
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They hexed the plate for that sleeve to fit, but I still don't see how the 'splines' would keep it from falling out (spinning yes but even then, the hex portion would stop that as well); my guess: given how long it is, the sleeve sits flush to the bottom of the plate so that it can't wiggle around/down.
The same way the splines on a normal kingpin do. Raised ridges under the hex head of the insert would bite into the baseplate/be pressed in. While the hex cutout would keep it from spinning like you pointed out. But it's just a guess based on the one photo. A flush insert/baseplate would work too, for sure... Although then I'd wonder about getting that GK nipple thing that used to happen from pressure up against the deck. Guess we'll have to wait and see.
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I was looking at the photo as if that sleeve is not pressed in, but I get what you mean spline-wise as it refers to regular pins; totally remember the GK pressing into the deck issue lol. Honestly it looks just like that design but with a hybrid inverted king.
Truth be told, I'm looking forward to the update krux than I am this mid model...again, it's like they made something no one really wanted? I do find it interesting that Thunder is making one too, I mean, just because Indy and Krux are you have to as well? Same goes for 148s..time Thunder started being innovative instead of reactionary. I am curious why the inverted pin is making such a ruckus these days...maybe it's backlog stuff since may production runs are impossible so they go with low hanging fruit.
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They hexed the plate for that sleeve to fit, but I still don't see how the 'splines' would keep it from falling out (spinning yes but even then, the hex portion would stop that as well); my guess: given how long it is, the sleeve sits flush to the bottom of the plate so that it can't wiggle around/down.
The same way the splines on a normal kingpin do. Raised ridges under the hex head of the insert would bite into the baseplate/be pressed in. While the hex cutout would keep it from spinning like you pointed out. But it's just a guess based on the one photo. A flush insert/baseplate would work too, for sure... Although then I'd wonder about getting that GK nipple thing that used to happen from pressure up against the deck. Guess we'll have to wait and see.
(https://i.imgur.com/xOw6E8Jl.jpg)
pulled some old grind king nut inserts out of my gear bin.
looks like indy is going with something along this style based on the various insta shots.
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The upcoming Krux K5s are switching over to the same hex/allen kingpin design, along with the threaded baseplates (shaft nut).
If they keep using grade 8 bolts then the weak point is the baseplate itself. There won’t be much difference between a threaded baseplate and one that gets a ribbed bolt hammered in place
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CDy-POTpK24/?igshid=1jxzrf4smkhtm
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52mm? These will really mellow out the pop, like close to Ace levels, probably
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CDy-POTpK24/?igshid=1jxzrf4smkhtm
bad kingpin clearance regardless
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52mm? These will really mellow out the pop, like close to Ace levels, probably
I skate stage 10 hangers and use them with stage 11 forged baseplates. It makes the truck 51.5mm and it's so perfect - you get a decent turn while still being close enough to snap em so quick your enemy never even gets a chance to reach for the holster. Hopefully these feel similar.
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Dam 52? Where is Thunder and Thunder Teams at compared to this?
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I wonder if they’ll release a forged hollow version, or if the baseplate is the same as a stage 11, and that the forged plates could be swapped in. I’ll probably try out a pair of 149’s, but I thought these were 53.5 tall, now they are listed as 52?
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53 kind of makes sense if you're taking in account that Thunder Teams are around 52mm? But realistic I'm not sure how much change that isExpand Quote
Dam 52? Where is Thunder and Thunder Teams at compared to this?
Thunders with forged plates are 52.5mm, the team editions have a cast baseplate, and are 53.5mm, the same height as forged Indys.
Seems as though the masses are being listened too...everyone has or will have an 8.25" truck now, inverted kings will be on all brands and 52/53 mm give or take .5 here and there, seems to be the new standard.
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I took their Instagram shot and another shot I found of a Hollow Forged from the same angle (https://i1.wp.com/grindking.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/comparison.jpg?w=798&ssl=1 )
- The kingpin seems to be at the exact same angle.
- The axle is pushed further away from the kingpin. If the baseplate is drilled in the same place as the stage XI then the truck in going to have a wider wheelbase and more like a Thunder pop. (however, they could have drilled the baseplate more central like Thunder does and kept the axle in relation to the holes similar).
- There is slightly more kingpin clearance than with the standard height ones.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CE4iWdZFY9t/?igshid=1uwilb9eeo6bb
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CE4iWdZFY9t/?igshid=1uwilb9eeo6bb
"inverted kingpin and baseplate will be sold separately in Spring, Trucks avail in October."
So I can slap my TI hanger on and be good to go...does it still make it a mid? If they are selling just pins and plates seems like all the work was done to the plate.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CE4iWdZFY9t/?igshid=1uwilb9eeo6bb
"inverted kingpin and baseplate will be sold separately in Spring, Trucks avail in October."
So I can slap my TI hanger on and be good to go...does it still make it a mid? If they are selling just pins and plates seems like all the work was done to the plate.
I think they lowered they height of the hanger. Don't think they can forge the baseplate any smaller due to stability reasons.
Soo, the Mindys will be 1.5 mm lower as hollow forged Indys? I am not sure if I will notice that when I ride them. ^^
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CE4iWdZFY9t/?igshid=1uwilb9eeo6bb
"inverted kingpin and baseplate will be sold separately in Spring, Trucks avail in October."
So I can slap my TI hanger on and be good to go...does it still make it a mid? If they are selling just pins and plates seems like all the work was done to the plate.
I think they lowered they height of the hanger. Don't think they can forge the baseplate any smaller due to stability reasons.
Soo, the Mindys will be 1.5 mm lower as hollow forged Indys? I am not sure if I will notice that when I ride them. ^^
That's what I've been saying all along. 1.5mm will only make a difference in wheelbite, if that's an issue for some...and that 1.5mm drop won't be worth the weight increase of going to a standard.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CE4iWdZFY9t/?igshid=1uwilb9eeo6bb
"inverted kingpin and baseplate will be sold separately in Spring, Trucks avail in October."
So I can slap my TI hanger on and be good to go...does it still make it a mid? If they are selling just pins and plates seems like all the work was done to the plate.
I think they lowered they height of the hanger. Don't think they can forge the baseplate any smaller due to stability reasons.
Soo, the Mindys will be 1.5 mm lower as hollow forged Indys? I am not sure if I will notice that when I ride them. ^^
That's what I've been saying all along. 1.5mm will only make a difference in wheelbite, if that's an issue for some...and that 1.5mm drop won't be worth the weight increase of going to a standard.
Are titaniums the same height as hollow forged?
MAYBE a Mindy Titanium could be nice.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CE4iWdZFY9t/?igshid=1uwilb9eeo6bb
"inverted kingpin and baseplate will be sold separately in Spring, Trucks avail in October."
So I can slap my TI hanger on and be good to go...does it still make it a mid? If they are selling just pins and plates seems like all the work was done to the plate.
I think they lowered they height of the hanger. Don't think they can forge the baseplate any smaller due to stability reasons.
Soo, the Mindys will be 1.5 mm lower as hollow forged Indys? I am not sure if I will notice that when I ride them. ^^
That's what I've been saying all along. 1.5mm will only make a difference in wheelbite, if that's an issue for some...and that 1.5mm drop won't be worth the weight increase of going to a standard.
Are titaniums the same height as hollow forged?
MAYBE a Mindy Titanium could be nice.
Yeah, forged indy's are 53.5, hollow or tit.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CE4iWdZFY9t/?igshid=1uwilb9eeo6bb
"inverted kingpin and baseplate will be sold separately in Spring, Trucks avail in October."
So I can slap my TI hanger on and be good to go...does it still make it a mid? If they are selling just pins and plates seems like all the work was done to the plate.
I think they lowered they height of the hanger. Don't think they can forge the baseplate any smaller due to stability reasons.
Soo, the Mindys will be 1.5 mm lower as hollow forged Indys? I am not sure if I will notice that when I ride them. ^^
That's what I've been saying all along. 1.5mm will only make a difference in wheelbite, if that's an issue for some...and that 1.5mm drop won't be worth the weight increase of going to a standard.
I don't know how noticeable it will feel to you, but going from a Thunder to an Indy with 2.5mm difference fucked me up. The indys made me feel like my board was way too high off of the ground. Couldn't handle it and went back to thunders. Later switched to thunder teams that are 1mm taller and adjusted relatively quickly. Took maybe a day. Truck madness is fucking weird, man.
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It's cool they're doing this as an interchangeable plate with the difference between mids and highs being in the hanger (ala Venture). Also hyped they're doing this as a 159.
I know a couple people mentioned the 1.5mm difference between these and forged, but the height of the forged comes from the plate whereas this comes from the hanger. I'm sure the geometry will be a bit different and hopefully will rotate the wheels in more (like Ace) to compensate for the height.
Whatever the case, I'm psyched to try these.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CE4iWdZFY9t/?igshid=1uwilb9eeo6bb
"inverted kingpin and baseplate will be sold separately in Spring, Trucks avail in October."
So I can slap my TI hanger on and be good to go...does it still make it a mid? If they are selling just pins and plates seems like all the work was done to the plate.
I think they lowered they height of the hanger. Don't think they can forge the baseplate any smaller due to stability reasons.
Soo, the Mindys will be 1.5 mm lower as hollow forged Indys? I am not sure if I will notice that when I ride them. ^^
That's what I've been saying all along. 1.5mm will only make a difference in wheelbite, if that's an issue for some...and that 1.5mm drop won't be worth the weight increase of going to a standard.
I don't know how noticeable it will feel to you, but going from a Thunder to an Indy with 2.5mm difference fucked me up. The indys made me feel like my board was way too high off of the ground. Couldn't handle it and went back to thunders. Later switched to thunder teams that are 1mm taller and adjusted relatively quickly. Took maybe a day. Truck madness is fucking weird, man.
2.5mm maybe, but we're talking 1.5mm (like you noted above the 1mm difference didn't fuck with you too much...roughly the thickness of a grain of rice, or 15 sheets of 80 gsm (Bond) photocopy paper...or swapping a 51.5mm wheel for a 52.5mm wheels...that's pretty negligible to me (and I've swapped back and forth on trucks indy ti @53.5, to ACE or Theeve @52mm to whatever the fuck thunders are now and it's never phased me...only going to 55mm indy standards of Tensors throw me off..
I could the pairing of wheel size throwing you off tho if you are used to a specific combo...remember when Indy put out that FAQ for SXI where they said if you feel 55mm is too high, and you want the old standard height of 53.5 (forged now) just drop down in wheelsize?
I'm still not sure why they even made this other than team riders wanting a lower, standard cast truck instead of the 55mm as I doubt ACE being 52mm is eating into their marketshare.
And re-reading the indy posts on insta, yeah, it's a 'lower profile' hanger, so the pin and plate for sale will just net you a standard indy.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CFSPqgYByTK/?igshid=11nuhcsblckkb
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I am a big fan of the indy lows and am looking forward to the mids. I think for my first set I will run 50 mm wheels instead of 52 or 53 just to get used to them. It took me a little to get used to the indy lows when I first got them but it was well worth it.
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Oh shit..
Don't shoot the messenger, but they dropped first at Zumiez.
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-139-mid-skateboard-trucks.html
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-mid-144-skateboard-truck.html
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-mid-149-skateboard-trucks.html
(ducks and runs....)
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Oh shit..
Don't shoot the messenger, but they dropped first at Zumiez.
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-139-mid-skateboard-trucks.html
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-mid-144-skateboard-truck.html
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-mid-149-skateboard-trucks.html
(ducks and runs....)
MVP - gnar'd - ordered some 144s
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Good to see NHS looking out for small shops! Gotta keep the food court friends fed I guess?
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So what would the height on a "mid" with cast plates vs forged?
If I buy these can I just swap the plates over to a pair of titanium hangers and get the same geometry but lighter, or are there changes to the hangers as well?
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So what would the height on a "mid" with cast plates vs forged?
If I buy these can I just swap the plates over to a pair of titanium hangers and get the same geometry but lighter, or are there changes to the hangers as well?
Inverted kingpin stock, I don't think it will be easy to swap baseplates
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So what would the height on a "mid" with cast plates vs forged?
If I buy these can I just swap the plates over to a pair of titanium hangers and get the same geometry but lighter, or are there changes to the hangers as well?
My understanding of these new plates is that the difference between mid and high is all in the hanger (ala Venture) so you could put a ti or hollow hanger on these. They plan to sell the new plates separately in the spring.
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So what would the height on a "mid" with cast plates vs forged?
If I buy these can I just swap the plates over to a pair of titanium hangers and get the same geometry but lighter, or are there changes to the hangers as well?
My understanding of these new plates is that the difference between mid and high is all in the hanger (ala Venture) so you could put a ti or hollow hanger on these. They plan to sell the new plates separately in the spring.
Spring? Wow.
My wallet is telling me no. But my madness, my madness is telling me y-y-yeahhh
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So what would the height on a "mid" with cast plates vs forged?
If I buy these can I just swap the plates over to a pair of titanium hangers and get the same geometry but lighter, or are there changes to the hangers as well?
My understanding of these new plates is that the difference between mid and high is all in the hanger (ala Venture) so you could put a ti or hollow hanger on these. They plan to sell the new plates separately in the spring.
Spring? Wow.
My wallet is telling me no. But my madness, my madness is telling me y-y-yeahhh
Yeah, I've been super settled on Ace but am going to try the Indy mid 159s because I have some weird fetish for 52mm high trucks.
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So what would the height on a "mid" with cast plates vs forged?
If I buy these can I just swap the plates over to a pair of titanium hangers and get the same geometry but lighter, or are there changes to the hangers as well?
Current Cast 55mm vs. Current Forged 53.5mm vs vs New Cast Indy Mid 52mm
As noted, all the work to lower the truck was done via the hanger (at least that is what we're being told) so using a hanger from current model indys + the mid plate is the same as riding a current set of standards (but you get the pin).
1.5mm difference - I'd imagine you could drop the cast plate of the mid and go to a forged hollow pin plate and get it down to 50.5mm, and shave off some weight; no clue if the inverted kingpin will work in forged...I'll check when they arrive as I have some forged plates I could sacrifice.
Good to see NHS looking out for small shops! Gotta keep the food court friends fed I guess?
Regardless of personal feeling towards Zumies, NHS or any other brand, contracts are contracts.
I don't see people bitching about DLX dropping spitfires to zumiez first (which they've done with tablets) and we've no clue what smaller shops actually got an Indy drop, I'd guess we'll see them hit this week as well.
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I don't see people bitching about DLX dropping spitfires to zumiez first (which they've done with tablets) and we've no clue what smaller shops actually got an Indy drop, I'd guess we'll see them hit this week as well.
We also don't know who else has them in house already (including locals) and just taking longer to put them up on their websites.
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I don't see people bitching about DLX dropping spitfires to zumiez first (which they've done with tablets) and we've no clue what smaller shops actually got an Indy drop, I'd guess we'll see them hit this week as well.
We also don't know who else has them in house already (including locals) and just taking longer to put them up on their websites.
Yup. I doubt those local shops without a web/storefront can push them like Zumiez (or even those with them: CCS or SW or WS or SoCal) would be able to...but you have to explain things to people who might not understand how retail works (I worked in retail for boutique operations, independently owned and operated clothing / Surf and Skate shops)...besides, those shops have to call their distro and actually order specific items and quantities.
Hate Zumiez or not, they're an established network of stores that have a national inventory system, shit is ordered (probably by each individual shop or just doled out based on what sells where) HQ places an order and once shit is received it is put into, and propagated to the system. This is how you find out if you local zooomeeez has the shit you are looking to buy...
Small shops are boutiques, not chains.
Now, this also doesn't mean he wasn't right and that zumiez did get the first shipment sent out the door...
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So what would the height on a "mid" with cast plates vs forged?
If I buy these can I just swap the plates over to a pair of titanium hangers and get the same geometry but lighter, or are there changes to the hangers as well?
My understanding of these new plates is that the difference between mid and high is all in the hanger (ala Venture) so you could put a ti or hollow hanger on these. They plan to sell the new plates separately in the spring.
Spring? Wow.
My wallet is telling me no. But my madness, my madness is telling me y-y-yeahhh
Yeah, I've been super settled on Ace but am going to try the Indy mid 159s because I have some weird fetish for 52mm high trucks.
May pick up the 159s just to have a truck that size.
Does anyone know if the separarte baseplates will be like the new ones that are double drilled and lack a pivot cup?
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So what would the height on a "mid" with cast plates vs forged?
If I buy these can I just swap the plates over to a pair of titanium hangers and get the same geometry but lighter, or are there changes to the hangers as well?
My understanding of these new plates is that the difference between mid and high is all in the hanger (ala Venture) so you could put a ti or hollow hanger on these. They plan to sell the new plates separately in the spring.
Spring? Wow.
My wallet is telling me no. But my madness, my madness is telling me y-y-yeahhh
Get you some brah!
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Anyone know where a fella can get find some 144 mid jawns?
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Oh shit..
Don't shoot the messenger, but they dropped first at Zumiez.
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-139-mid-skateboard-trucks.html
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-mid-144-skateboard-truck.html
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-mid-149-skateboard-trucks.html
(ducks and runs....)
Maybe they prematurely sold it since link is no longer available?
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Oh shit..
Don't shoot the messenger, but they dropped first at Zumiez.
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-139-mid-skateboard-trucks.html
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-mid-144-skateboard-truck.html
https://www.zumiez.com/independent-polished-mid-149-skateboard-trucks.html
(ducks and runs....)
Maybe they prematurely sold it since link is no longer available?
probably, because indy has always said October.
I want some of the 144s but I'm gonna wait a while to cop. Interested to see what they do to the wheelbase.
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Because I love you all...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TG8XcX9CnOesm6YTQGcyza3E4OYYLbO3gMpMz6Orw2tH7S93KszQp-eoHLuU16iVHIobT4vMZ9JuKt4H98pqi2XHAcNJtWoi46lCWE8u_Gf9E0Y6253XZDi-ybTZrcv2C9gHLBHiW9A)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MOt9TDvvMwRiPQfIRVp3O9N0FNdOo7zDzx9kfp2Pt4FeCcF0_krJ0lloLVZUnKTV385OKZCTgez87zkAbYo6gknGorHyFps1Q7WfH_u_8BiV1W2byGnVSBxtSgSO_KdklbLegw6Mklw)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P_PRO340NCWQSUnm88_hxcPmaARoROsLE1Z-BEVqMm6Hym5LXGxTLPWnptqaWI0mFYU_nX6eL3GaZ-ZXAhLdTY8ylDha9EecHlJ32iCD-NgVGj8rsPwhSKqddp8KsW4dHHrfwg927O8)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WEwDlJy4cZMDjMbRD09GgF1ORYONetbtnSAOfl1VtBYRkY1vlj8D_v66eFAtoiEVnNzcHLuYCCxVWEASlKcXjJlXIq8i33ylzJFaBqsTG5uK0BY--3y7V0nv9SrcH7xZGEKA9DE79fo)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M9QmUONA2i6HrXeK616vvt_HYn4OEMKSd8mzkWNOVeYjsqOEUz1oI4A9itxMEX5AnhumbC653DkITwW7kAXOwD8i3kCsM0MJn6DdqBr-Jh-uWTTGrh9eDH-wbyL7j_cgXqW1bBp4sw8)
Stock pin + washer
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uwiuuNbqAsyoSrnL2T9S6l5uAMP4lI5i-KedJxmissUzuVbEG2eA_IjpIU2qusufT6UCVCTQANBGY-W20BnFbmgKtZj1LHWVP3_ETonKbPbWB3BY_kzkkoavzeJqQNebvFhPNkOpxdI)
Krux pin + washer
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Stwb8LErmKLACzYw069j1IpYOWYwsknKehS9j6SqxC2S6PDf8LEnKfcW1BaLFnijpDi4fhrwoIaWWfJ16Y5eYrOWjhx9pkmCr5Sb4hYSpYzTGEHG5slFj__5HuHpSyIn-Y1RtRSqyPE)
7g lighter using Krux Pin (meh)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M6rTAnNyNJi4LudvlGKUutOs_dmFvEFJGc0jcI_fxLwSr2FEevmpINoL_ekKa_GBt2nU3eSHJ7QaJWMUR2qJUQuiRw5oPDuE1oW1Czt0b91c09dD4HUcaycPQMNS9t2DDLQ_g26Bi-A)
Tiniest bit more grind clearance with the Krux pin (L)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gfIRnHuaoBb4M3ivRFul2oy3_69WO25cqGK6tmY6wmoDD_JgcvDK8wZ9ybDXt14YBfcwmxTohUYLRaQgNUrNx6pZXUaQLSDlZYqKz2yoZn8gx6Bc9ZWbqJma2jF6zo50P6emWP4DkMs)
You can see the underside hanger curve has changed compared to the TI Hanger; I never noticed how much shorter the front part of the forge plates are compared to cast - Mid hanger has more lean towards the center of your board than the upright-ness of the forged
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y89Gkw7587HK8cBDgwfDoFnoTkedka-g5H3LVkkI9AC4EXEPAftzuxKVw6-D8CoUGffVeUrf8aq5j6xQXOEJ3PfS7uRQU0XC4sSXZTXHl3SNmWfDbqY-fPfdvd_Pu64hciSX7GVjlAw)
Plates flush against and edge, WB is clearly tighter than the forged/and you can see one image above that the lean of hanger is more forward than upright)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H7VYkZl3k4lA3OK5L0rG9x4IMaNyJ9Y2y1-7-CX-e6GonBA4qR-be_fTKbyFsw_OYNbGOy45lQu58YK7EaOPhOIjFKkm5Gy8XPzxQOsGCqBQwlv-2kK0KzirDfNW-neaCBm6Y4Clxg8)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ks9KQX5VbtmgzVCMb5ENOjFtfzY8N67n9aTE6V6gOx2FAQUfUSlm1XxgaD5WztL_4gPE5MwLoAyAzZosAzgvDhwcmj81_HVTUYq1A0RSMjbnA2t9qybSZCVp1uE_lSsUpYnUJr8tBp4)
Mid Hanger Forged plate
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VM-Vlwipc8U08hW-mIN12VIdlqFx6-P9Qh5oeK2p8In4jqQO6ynJVbnWKMrO5wPvs3UFK5wbxlxlHzUuO5i5nVv94Ro8LOUZ2HZatC2GDrXPwuxG4kqZIUSKAoakqbTILBnFUKIeORM)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Mid cast plate TI hanger 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rmnoDE6cUOB6PXAFdam_JnZjeeeApfUlDZhtLzKJ681X1t7kG0B13DFEXCiq-zgJuj6__9lPWAdI-3m6b9dXWRQ4Gj4bsci8C5Imu1mEmN_L6QuJrNSHxj6cevUo7Qh2Z1BRpIW92nU)
(L) Indy Forged TI 144 | (R) Indy Mid hanger 144 FORGED PLATE 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o6z1aiEf9feX79v66MHkDsO0W8P4uUfPpmmp2VD7W282Do25f8lF-HNwupagruwtJRy0LTviZDSRQimYcVx6zfXjy-gSpv_cEs9hw34R_s0nfIkimuO1GeCg0jivgDlfDrzVxmmxYNw)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy FORGED plate Mid Hanger Standard (50.5mm now?)
Setting them up now, will measure WB compared to the forged TI will post feedback after.
-
Because I love you all...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TG8XcX9CnOesm6YTQGcyza3E4OYYLbO3gMpMz6Orw2tH7S93KszQp-eoHLuU16iVHIobT4vMZ9JuKt4H98pqi2XHAcNJtWoi46lCWE8u_Gf9E0Y6253XZDi-ybTZrcv2C9gHLBHiW9A)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MOt9TDvvMwRiPQfIRVp3O9N0FNdOo7zDzx9kfp2Pt4FeCcF0_krJ0lloLVZUnKTV385OKZCTgez87zkAbYo6gknGorHyFps1Q7WfH_u_8BiV1W2byGnVSBxtSgSO_KdklbLegw6Mklw)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P_PRO340NCWQSUnm88_hxcPmaARoROsLE1Z-BEVqMm6Hym5LXGxTLPWnptqaWI0mFYU_nX6eL3GaZ-ZXAhLdTY8ylDha9EecHlJ32iCD-NgVGj8rsPwhSKqddp8KsW4dHHrfwg927O8)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WEwDlJy4cZMDjMbRD09GgF1ORYONetbtnSAOfl1VtBYRkY1vlj8D_v66eFAtoiEVnNzcHLuYCCxVWEASlKcXjJlXIq8i33ylzJFaBqsTG5uK0BY--3y7V0nv9SrcH7xZGEKA9DE79fo)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M9QmUONA2i6HrXeK616vvt_HYn4OEMKSd8mzkWNOVeYjsqOEUz1oI4A9itxMEX5AnhumbC653DkITwW7kAXOwD8i3kCsM0MJn6DdqBr-Jh-uWTTGrh9eDH-wbyL7j_cgXqW1bBp4sw8)
Stock pin + washer
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uwiuuNbqAsyoSrnL2T9S6l5uAMP4lI5i-KedJxmissUzuVbEG2eA_IjpIU2qusufT6UCVCTQANBGY-W20BnFbmgKtZj1LHWVP3_ETonKbPbWB3BY_kzkkoavzeJqQNebvFhPNkOpxdI)
Krux pin + washer
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Stwb8LErmKLACzYw069j1IpYOWYwsknKehS9j6SqxC2S6PDf8LEnKfcW1BaLFnijpDi4fhrwoIaWWfJ16Y5eYrOWjhx9pkmCr5Sb4hYSpYzTGEHG5slFj__5HuHpSyIn-Y1RtRSqyPE)
7g lighter using Krux Pin (meh)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M6rTAnNyNJi4LudvlGKUutOs_dmFvEFJGc0jcI_fxLwSr2FEevmpINoL_ekKa_GBt2nU3eSHJ7QaJWMUR2qJUQuiRw5oPDuE1oW1Czt0b91c09dD4HUcaycPQMNS9t2DDLQ_g26Bi-A)
Tiniest bit more grind clearance with the Krux pin (L)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gfIRnHuaoBb4M3ivRFul2oy3_69WO25cqGK6tmY6wmoDD_JgcvDK8wZ9ybDXt14YBfcwmxTohUYLRaQgNUrNx6pZXUaQLSDlZYqKz2yoZn8gx6Bc9ZWbqJma2jF6zo50P6emWP4DkMs)
You can see the underside hanger curve has changed compared to the TI Hanger; I never noticed how much shorter the front part of the forge plates are compared to cast - Mid hanger has more lean towards the center of your board than the upright-ness of the forged
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y89Gkw7587HK8cBDgwfDoFnoTkedka-g5H3LVkkI9AC4EXEPAftzuxKVw6-D8CoUGffVeUrf8aq5j6xQXOEJ3PfS7uRQU0XC4sSXZTXHl3SNmWfDbqY-fPfdvd_Pu64hciSX7GVjlAw)
Plates flush against and edge, WB is clearly tighter than the forged/and you can see one image above that the lean of hanger is more forward than upright)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H7VYkZl3k4lA3OK5L0rG9x4IMaNyJ9Y2y1-7-CX-e6GonBA4qR-be_fTKbyFsw_OYNbGOy45lQu58YK7EaOPhOIjFKkm5Gy8XPzxQOsGCqBQwlv-2kK0KzirDfNW-neaCBm6Y4Clxg8)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Forged plate TI 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ks9KQX5VbtmgzVCMb5ENOjFtfzY8N67n9aTE6V6gOx2FAQUfUSlm1XxgaD5WztL_4gPE5MwLoAyAzZosAzgvDhwcmj81_HVTUYq1A0RSMjbnA2t9qybSZCVp1uE_lSsUpYnUJr8tBp4)
Mid Hanger Forged plate
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VM-Vlwipc8U08hW-mIN12VIdlqFx6-P9Qh5oeK2p8In4jqQO6ynJVbnWKMrO5wPvs3UFK5wbxlxlHzUuO5i5nVv94Ro8LOUZ2HZatC2GDrXPwuxG4kqZIUSKAoakqbTILBnFUKIeORM)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy Mid cast plate TI hanger 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rmnoDE6cUOB6PXAFdam_JnZjeeeApfUlDZhtLzKJ681X1t7kG0B13DFEXCiq-zgJuj6__9lPWAdI-3m6b9dXWRQ4Gj4bsci8C5Imu1mEmN_L6QuJrNSHxj6cevUo7Qh2Z1BRpIW92nU)
(L) Indy Forged TI 144 | (R) Indy Mid hanger 144 FORGED PLATE 144
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o6z1aiEf9feX79v66MHkDsO0W8P4uUfPpmmp2VD7W282Do25f8lF-HNwupagruwtJRy0LTviZDSRQimYcVx6zfXjy-gSpv_cEs9hw34R_s0nfIkimuO1GeCg0jivgDlfDrzVxmmxYNw)
(L) Indy Mid Cast Plate/Standard 144 | (R) Indy FORGED plate Mid Hanger Standard (50.5mm now?)
Setting them up now, will measure WB compared to the forged TI will post feedback after.
gnar for the leg work.
seems like a pointless truck when compared to forged titaniums. might be a little more "impressive" vs standard 144s
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gnar for the leg work.
seems like a pointless truck when compared to forged titaniums. might be a little more "impressive" vs standard 144s
Totally agree (but I don't have any standards kicking around).
According to NHS' site, Standard 144 Indys are 387g, the standard mids are coming in at 397g +10g...but I can't see where that is happening...they hollowed out the pin hole more to cram the sleeve in there...but I can't see that being 10g heavier and the inverted pin seems standard weight to me (I don't have one on hand to compare); but maybe it's bulkier than the standard pin area that is pressed into the plate?
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Bricks!
Why not make threads in the baseplate itself, instead of a nut?
To me the clearance looks bad, and bcuz of the design, its a larger surface to "grind" on, vs a regular kingpin & nut.
So you cant make dip as much, but you might get less hangups.
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Why not make threads in the baseplate itself, instead of a nut?
Baseplate is aluminum and cast. The threads would be easily buggered.
In addition, the insert has nylock on it. If you didn't have the nylock then the kingpin would unthread and get looser as you skated.
My guess is that this is replaceable - although it may take a big hammer.
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Can you throw on the Krux kingpin on the mids?
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Can you throw on the Krux kingpin on the mids?
Damn dude, I know there's a bunch of pics but come on...
Because I love you all...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Stwb8LErmKLACzYw069j1IpYOWYwsknKehS9j6SqxC2S6PDf8LEnKfcW1BaLFnijpDi4fhrwoIaWWfJ16Y5eYrOWjhx9pkmCr5Sb4hYSpYzTGEHG5slFj__5HuHpSyIn-Y1RtRSqyPE)
7g lighter using Krux Pin (meh)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M6rTAnNyNJi4LudvlGKUutOs_dmFvEFJGc0jcI_fxLwSr2FEevmpINoL_ekKa_GBt2nU3eSHJ7QaJWMUR2qJUQuiRw5oPDuE1oW1Czt0b91c09dD4HUcaycPQMNS9t2DDLQ_g26Bi-A)
Tiniest bit more grind clearance with the Krux pin (L)
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Why not make threads in the baseplate itself, instead of a nut?
Because your kingpin would snap 5x as often
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Solid work Xen.
Now the biggest question, how well do they skate???
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Wow thanks for the nerd specs Xen. You’ve given me a lot to over-analyze. ;)
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So the
Solid work Xen.
Now the biggest question, how well do they skate???
They skate like Indys :P
Coming off the 53.5mm forged....I can't tell the difference except for the weight...as I swapped in the same bushings and cups I was using on the forged TI.
They are pulling in the WB (my pics prove it) more than forged (but not more than regular cast, as far as I remember....cast are shorter WB than forged indy??), but I can't feel any difference as I put them on a 14.1875 WB board as opposed to the 14.25WB I was riding on the forged - so it probably nulls out the 1 or 2 mm difference and what little pop feel I could muster (I'm recovering from ankle bullshit so I've been off the board for a week, I was waiting for these to arrive to justify getting on the board) they felt fine/no different?
I did pair them with some 51m spitabs vs the 52mm rictas I was on with the forged so I could tell that I was lower over all (about the height of going from 55mm standards to forged...
If you are coming from Standards, you'll notice a difference I'd wager but coming from forged...not really.
The hanger angle looks very different when you look at them side by side (like when you put a thunder next to an Indy so not sure how they kept the same geo...
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Can you throw on the Krux kingpin on the mids?
Damn dude, I know there's a bunch of pics but come on...
Let me expand, did you have to make any modifications?
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Can you throw on the Krux kingpin on the mids?
Damn dude, I know there's a bunch of pics but come on...
Let me expand, did you have to make any modifications?
Nope. Otherwise I would have noted. Unscrewed Indy inverted pin, screwed in Krux pin.
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Can you throw on the Krux kingpin on the mids?
Damn dude, I know there's a bunch of pics but come on...
Let me expand, did you have to make any modifications?
Nope. Otherwise I would have noted. Unscrewed Indy inverted pin, screwed in Krux pin.
Thank you for explaining and doing all the heavy Work.
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Added the breakdown from Xen on page 1 of this thread.
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Can you throw on the Krux kingpin on the mids?
Damn dude, I know there's a bunch of pics but come on...
Let me expand, did you have to make any modifications?
Nope. Otherwise I would have noted. Unscrewed Indy inverted pin, screwed in Krux pin.
Thank you for explaining and doing all the heavy Work.
Since I have them, I'm going to use the krux pins and throw in my ACE reg/low bushings to drop the grind clearance down some and lighten them up a bit.
Weird they didn't launch cast hollows along side them, unless manufacturing times are still an issue, and they probably sell more standards..
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@Xen probably a mix of both. I’m sure with time they’ll offer hollow and titanium variations. With an eventual move up stages (similar to the last stage change).
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gnar for the leg work.
seems like a pointless truck when compared to forged titaniums. might be a little more "impressive" vs standard 144s
Totally agree (but I don't have any standards kicking around).
According to NHS' site, Standard 144 Indys are 387g, the standard mids are coming in at 397g +10g...but I can't see where that is happening...they hollowed out the pin hole more to cram the sleeve in there...but I can't see that being 10g heavier and the inverted pin seems standard weight to me (I don't have one on hand to compare); but maybe it's bulkier than the standard pin area that is pressed into the plate?
More truck....
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Thanks as well, Xen. This confirms my original feeling of these trucks being pretty much pointless. Even with the Krux pin the clearance isn't special, it just makes the inverted kingpin look better compared to the ugly stock one that reminds me of Royal's inverted kingpin.
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My guess is this was done to line up with the manufacturing process more than customer demand.....
It's like dating a girl who looks EXACTLY like your ex.....why bother......
Maybe out of spite.....
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the mid version of your ex....ouch
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like your ex but you can put a nut in the bottom
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the mid version of your ex....ouch
HAH! Gnar'd.
Biggest thing to keep in mind besides weight, kingpin, blah, blah is that they are 52mm. To me that's a win, especially with cast.
When they come out with the cast@52mm hollow/TI, or a DLX 'team' varient, that's going to be the sweetspot.
Given the height of the frgd plate (front of it around the pin) and the depth at which they bored the fuck out of the baseplate, I doubt we'll ever see a forged variant with this pin.
A 52mm indy, cast plate, inverted, TI (mid) hanger (or hollow for the peasants...I kid...) is THE going to be their sweet spot for sales.
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My local shop has been good in ordering in stuff for me, they'd never carry that truck....I bet at least 50% of skaters just buy Raws.....this new design would make a broken kingpin easier no?
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My local shop has been good in ordering in stuff for me, they'd never carry that truck....I bet at least 50% of skaters just buy Raws.....this new design would make a broken kingpin easier no?
Yeah, you could swap out a kingpin in minutes and you don't need a hammer.
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My local shop has been good in ordering in stuff for me, they'd never carry that truck....I bet at least 50% of skaters just buy Raws.....this new design would make a broken kingpin easier no?
Yeah, you could swap out a kingpin in minutes and you don't need a hammer.
Not sure...if you snap the pin, how do you get the broken part out of the sleeve? I guess you can just bang out the whole thing and then cram it back in...but...until they start selling them separately we're all fucked as you can't put a regular pin in those plates...the normal way, you'd have to just buy the krux pin.
If you're a pin breaker these are def now for you.
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My local shop has been good in ordering in stuff for me, they'd never carry that truck....I bet at least 50% of skaters just buy Raws.....this new design would make a broken kingpin easier no?
Yeah, you could swap out a kingpin in minutes and you don't need a hammer.
Not sure...if you snap the pin, how do you get the broken part out of the sleeve? I guess you can just bang out the whole thing and then cram it back in...but...until they start selling them separately we're all fucked as you can't put a regular pin in those plates...the normal way, you'd have to just buy the krux pin.
If you're a pin breaker these are def now for you.
I guess I'm missing something. You posted a picture of the bottom of the baseplate with a nut in it, exactly like krux does it. I guess the nut is built in then? My bad.
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My local shop has been good in ordering in stuff for me, they'd never carry that truck....I bet at least 50% of skaters just buy Raws.....this new design would make a broken kingpin easier no?
Yeah, you could swap out a kingpin in minutes and you don't need a hammer.
Not sure...if you snap the pin, how do you get the broken part out of the sleeve? I guess you can just bang out the whole thing and then cram it back in...but...until they start selling them separately we're all fucked as you can't put a regular pin in those plates...the normal way, you'd have to just buy the krux pin.
If you're a pin breaker these are def now for you.
I guess I'm missing something. You posted a picture of the bottom of the baseplate with a nut in it, exactly like krux does it. I guess the nut is built in then? My bad.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
It's a sleeve, just look at the top of the base plate; it appears that the nut is attached to this sleeve(? I have no way to tell and don't feel like banging it out and fucking up the truck); nut doesn't spin and it doesn't fall out when you dismantle it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3353649#msg3353649
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I just realized that riser pads are cock sleeves for your trucks.
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These Grindking style low profile button heads should give a little more clearance than the combo ones Indy is running. No need for a top washer on these.
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-ozmjy/images/stencil/700x900/products/3548/13133/KPALLEN-2__48255.1581358319.png?c=2)
https://sk8ratz.com/sure-grip-classic-kingpin-3-8-allen-head-kingpin-sold-individually/ (https://sk8ratz.com/sure-grip-classic-kingpin-3-8-allen-head-kingpin-sold-individually/)
Honestly those combo ones that Indy has are barely lower than a normal nut. I had Royals with the same exact kingpin, and I ended up switching them to some old used Grindking ones from trucks I skated as a kid.
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These Grindking style low profile button heads should give a little more clearance than the combo ones Indy is running. No need for a top washer on these.
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-ozmjy/images/stencil/700x900/products/3548/13133/KPALLEN-2__48255.1581358319.png?c=2)
https://sk8ratz.com/sure-grip-classic-kingpin-3-8-allen-head-kingpin-sold-individually/ (https://sk8ratz.com/sure-grip-classic-kingpin-3-8-allen-head-kingpin-sold-individually/)
Honestly those combo ones that Indy has are barely lower than a normal nut. I had Royals with the same exact kingpin, and I ended up switching them to some old used Grindking ones from trucks I skated as a kid.
Nice find! Nabbed a pair to tryout...the Indy pin is useless in terms of grind clearance...thunder seems to be using the same thing...
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These Grindking style low profile button heads should give a little more clearance than the combo ones Indy is running. No need for a top washer on these.
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-ozmjy/images/stencil/700x900/products/3548/13133/KPALLEN-2__48255.1581358319.png?c=2)
https://sk8ratz.com/sure-grip-classic-kingpin-3-8-allen-head-kingpin-sold-individually/ (https://sk8ratz.com/sure-grip-classic-kingpin-3-8-allen-head-kingpin-sold-individually/)
Honestly those combo ones that Indy has are barely lower than a normal nut. I had Royals with the same exact kingpin, and I ended up switching them to some old used Grindking ones from trucks I skated as a kid.
Nice find! Nabbed a pair to tryout...the Indy pin is useless in terms of grind clearance...thunder seems to be using the same thing...
Sick, glad you got a pair! I have done the threaded insert baseplate conversion on my last two pairs of trucks, Indy stage 8's and some Thunders I'm still on after 3 years almost. I used similar kingpins on both, some NOS Kreper kingpins funny enough. Grind clearance for dayyys, even now that I'm well down to axel.
Side note, did anyone screen grab the Indy Mid's from Reynolds Instagram post he took down an hour or less after posting yesterday? It confirmed that there is no silly Iron Cross on the baseplate. Looks great, just like a Stage 7 truck, but with only 4 holes instead of 6.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CF45T34BzWW/?igshid=swv9bwqxm64z
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CF45T34BzWW/?igshid=swv9bwqxm64z
BGT
Have you ever tried ace lows? The indy mid is def higher than the Indy lows (I think you said you are normally riding Indy lows).
I’m curious about how the mids work out for people, but they seem really similar to stage 10 regular height. I was expecting something more like 50 mm high
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I’m ready for October 26. Gonna swap the hanger for a regular high and throw in a Krux kingpin.
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I'm pretty confident you can go to a machine shop and buy a bolt thats lower & stronger quality then the stock.
Something to look into!
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I'd be down for a hardware company that did things just a bit better....they could make kingpins like this or krux, hardware like the old randoms, or even a Silverado knock off....
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CF45T34BzWW/?igshid=swv9bwqxm64z
BGT
Have you ever tried ace lows? The indy mid is def higher than the Indy lows (I think you said you are normally riding Indy lows).
I’m curious about how the mids work out for people, but they seem really similar to stage 10 regular height. I was expecting something more like 50 mm high
I have not, I’ve only ridden Venture low trucks for like 17 years or so and independent low trucks the last 3-4 years.
I’ve always ridden low trucks. Never a “standard” or highs. The width changed for me through the years. Used to be 5.0 low then it went to 5.25 lows in the ventures. Then jumped straight to 139 low in Indy’s.
Now they no longer make lows and I don’t want to go back to venture. I bought all the Indy lows from skate warehouse that they had in stock. So I like 2-3 left in my stock. I think they are all the Reynolds hollow lows.
Looks and sounds like Indy mids are not really “mids” but just something to replace the discontinued lows. But I definitely want to try them out. Got new bones bushings mediums ready to put them on when I get them.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CF45T34BzWW/?igshid=swv9bwqxm64z
BGT
Have you ever tried ace lows? The indy mid is def higher than the Indy lows (I think you said you are normally riding Indy lows).
I’m curious about how the mids work out for people, but they seem really similar to stage 10 regular height. I was expecting something more like 50 mm high
I have not, I’ve only ridden Venture low trucks for like 17 years or so and independent low trucks the last 3-4 years.
I’ve always ridden low trucks. Never a “standard” or highs. The width changed for me through the years. Used to be 5.0 low then it went to 5.25 lows in the ventures. Then jumped straight to 139 low in Indy’s.
Now they no longer make lows and I don’t want to go back to venture. I bought all the Indy lows from skate warehouse that they had in stock. So I like 2-3 left in my stock. I think they are all the Reynolds hollow lows.
Looks and sounds like Indy mids are not really “mids” but just something to replace the discontinued lows. But I definitely want to try them out. Got new bones bushings mediums ready to put them on when I get them.
Thanks for reply
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Pardon my ignorance but what are the benefits of a lower truck? Are they more stable or better for certain tricks? Thanks for any information.
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Pardon my ignorance but what are the benefits of a lower truck? Are they more stable or better for certain tricks? Thanks for any information.
Stability and pop (for some) for the most part.
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All my friends know the low rider
The low rider is a little higher
Low rider drives a little slower
Low rider is a real goer
Low rider knows every street, yeah
Low rider is the one to meet, yeah
Low rider don't use no gas now
Low rider don't drive too fast
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I really wanna try these. I went to venture and they’re great but I’m 6’1 and finding a board with a short wheelbase is hard and then I feel cramped when I’m on it. And maybe it’s in my head but o didn’t have this issue with Indy. So 144 mids will be got and I should be close to axle on my ventures then
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Pardon my ignorance but what are the benefits of a lower truck? Are they more stable or better for certain tricks? Thanks for any information.
To me, I prefer lower trucks due to "ghost pop", where you have to REALLY try hard to pop if you are used to lower trucks. It is sort of like going from a very pleasant relationship with a wonderful person that is easy to get along with to a relationship with a completely bat shit crazy person BUT they are absolutely insane in bed (i.e., can turn very well). The indy lows were the best of both worlds IMO. I hope the indy mids are the equivalent of a highly educated woman with daddy issues. If that is the case, I will be very happy. I'll just get 50's instead of 52's or 53's
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https://youtu.be/3zTX9VhnanM
Those kingpins
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To me, I prefer lower trucks due to "ghost pop", where you have to REALLY try hard to pop if you are used to lower trucks. It is sort of like going from a very pleasant relationship with a wonderful person that is easy to get along with to a relationship with a completely bat shit crazy person BUT they are absolutely insane in bed (i.e., can turn very well). The indy lows were the best of both worlds IMO. I hope the indy mids are the equivalent of a highly educated woman with daddy issues. If that is the case, I will be very happy. I'll just get 50's instead of 52's or 53's
word, this is my biggest problem with standard indys, they are so damn tall, but the forged ones extend the baseplate to like venture size which is lame to me. also i like bones spfs cause they are soo fast but the smallest they come in is 54 ::) which makes the ghost pop worse until i wear em down.
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To me, I prefer lower trucks due to "ghost pop", where you have to REALLY try hard to pop if you are used to lower trucks. It is sort of like going from a very pleasant relationship with a wonderful person that is easy to get along with to a relationship with a completely bat shit crazy person BUT they are absolutely insane in bed (i.e., can turn very well). The indy lows were the best of both worlds IMO. I hope the indy mids are the equivalent of a highly educated woman with daddy issues. If that is the case, I will be very happy. I'll just get 50's instead of 52's or 53's
word, this is my biggest problem with standard indys, they are so damn tall, but the forged ones extend the baseplate to like venture size which is lame to me. also i like bones spfs cause they are soo fast but the smallest they come in is 54 ::) which makes the ghost pop worse until i wear em down.
indy forged extends the same as thunder cast, not venture
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ah thanks, i tried keeping up in the wheelbase comparison thread but it was hard.
either way these are on my radar cause ive been looking for something with an easier pop and im pretty stuck on indy's.
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These just popped up on the SoCal webshop, 159s already sold out
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These just popped up on the SoCal webshop, 159s already sold out
https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-129mm-Mid-Skateboard-Trucks-Silver-75-Axle.html
129s for smaller boards
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These just popped up on the SoCal webshop, 159s already sold out
129s for smaller boards
I’m waiting on those 144s
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Quick side note, the size of the bottom bushing is that of the aftermarket bottom, so a tad shorter than standard/stocks.
It's actually closer to Ace low bottoms so threw those in along with the low tops and sleeved washers.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CGHwicSl2An/?igshid=p3y9iv9z9yro
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Man I must've been tripping but I swear a couple weeks I saw Reynolds post a picture of a set with no logo on the baseplate. Can't see it anywhere and every other set has the logo. Swear on my life I saw it.
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Man I must've been tripping but I swear a couple weeks I saw Reynolds post a picture of a set with no logo on the baseplate. Can't see it anywhere and every other set has the logo. Swear on my life I saw it.
May have been the lighting/down the road updates....or they made some pairs just because they wanted to send them to their riders quickly and didn’t have time.
Edit: Does anyone know who’s got 159s at the moment
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Man I must've been tripping but I swear a couple weeks I saw Reynolds post a picture of a set with no logo on the baseplate. Can't see it anywhere and every other set has the logo. Swear on my life I saw it.
Yeah I saw those too! He took the post down in less than an hour though. I was hoping they were rolling them out with blank baseplates after I saw that.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CGsR23dBJ23/?igshid=16c685xx2imie
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After skating them for a bit, I set-up my ACE 44s, same height, lighter and turn better....no inverted pin but w/e
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https://youtu.be/OeEVl5U--iY
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After skating them for a bit, I set-up my ACE 44s, same height, lighter and turn better....no inverted pin but w/e
This is exactly what Ive been thinking since Indy announced these. Ace are the same height and have comparable wheelbase and (slightly worse if bushings arent completely fucked) turn.... Just my opinion because to me the only pro of Indys is extra 3mm of height and only con is they have shittier turn compared to Ace
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On the NHS Site
https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/polished-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks
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Tactics:
https://www.tactics.com/independent/mid-inverted-kingpin-skateboard-trucks/polished-149
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After skating them for a bit, I set-up my ACE 44s, same height, lighter and turn better....no inverted pin but w/e
This is exactly what Ive been thinking since Indy announced these. Ace are the same height and have comparable wheelbase and (slightly worse if bushings arent completely fucked) turn.... Just my opinion because to me the only pro of Indys is extra 3mm of height and only con is they have shittier turn compared to Ace
The TI Indys are arguably the best in their lineup...light and low...no inverted pin, but we've all lived without it (or have dabbled with the Krux pin) as it's not a must have feature. I'll still skate them, I just don't see the need for them (unless they stop making the lows). We're going to see hollows so that's cool but it might be nice to see cast plates/Ti hangers...tho I'm pretty sure you could fit the inverted hardware in the forged plate but it might limit the tightness able to be achieved as it's nested pretty deep in the cast plate to allow for pretty tight trucks.
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Just setup 159 standards and they feel real good.I,'m not too crazy about truck height and weight since I ride mostly tranny nowadays. And if the mids are heavier I don't see a point to change. ???
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyxmsuAjJ5A
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Tactics:
https://www.tactics.com/independent/mid-inverted-kingpin-skateboard-trucks/polished-149
https://shop.atlasskateboarding.com/collections/all/products/independent-mid-trucks
https://img.skatewarehouse.com/cache/270/INMIDTR-SI-SI-1.jpg
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
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Hopefully they sell the inverted kingpin and baseplate separately i would like to pair that kingpin & baseplate with titanium hangers.
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Hopefully they sell the inverted kingpin and baseplate separately i would like to pair that kingpin & baseplate with titanium hangers.
Someone correct me but if I’m correct Spring 2021. Which is around December to February. But we are in a shortage.
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I'm starting to get tempted to try these. I never tried lows because I fear/hate change but maybe these will be sweet. 52MM tall sounds good. I don't like the look of the kingpin, but I am also 34 years into skating with a different kingpin so I imagine its just that I am not used to it.
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Would putting the new baseplates and king pin on an existing Indy fuck up the geo?
I work at a machine shop and this thread has me wondering if I should buy the cast baseplates and machine them down to 52mm thick.
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Would putting the new baseplates and king pin on an existing Indy fuck up the geo?
I work at a machine shop and this thread has me wondering if I should buy the cast baseplates and machine them down to 52mm thick.
The baseplates aren't where they are getting the height decrease - it's in the hanger. Machining down the cast baseplates would weaken them more than I would be comfortable with.
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Don't get Doh-Doh's. Back in the day I was similar weight as you and I tried every different Doh-Doh hardness. Never felt right to me personally, maybe different for you.
Since you already have the Indy hards, have you tried bottom stock bushing (90a) and on the top the hard one (94a). That's what I've been doing and I like it.
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https://youtu.be/dEaWiWMZxS4
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I ordered a set. Fuck it. I'm not getting any younger.
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I ordered a set. Fuck it. I'm not getting any younger.
well they’re not any lighter. Or you mean not getting any younger to try new things?
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
If you're looking for responsiveness and rebound I wouldn't get doh dohs. They also don't really like being cranked down, I've had some split on me when I tried it.
I'd suggest just ordering the blue 92a indy ones (they're the best indy bushings in my opinion) or going for something like the 94a ones that come stock in ventures. They sell them as deluxe supercush and I think they would be your best bet.
If there's nowhere around you that has them then you can order them with free shipping from TGM, or if you have Amazon prime they sometimes have them on the warehouse and you can get next day delivery.
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
DELUXE - SUPERCUSH BUSHINGS Or Indy Aftermarkets in a 97/99+ duro is what you need
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIv029VvkiE
tldw
- It's actually 10 grams heavier than the Indy standards
- The kingpin clearance is actually worse than Indy standards
- The hanger is way thicker than than the Indy standards
- Hollow version is supposed to come out this summer
I'm sure all this info was already covered in previous pages but I'm too lazy to check.
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Good info. I'm all set. Also w beefier hangar there's less lock in (especially with classic shape wheels), kingpin less smith clearance/harder than normal kingpin nut.
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https://skateparkoftampa.com/product/85770/Independent_Polished_Mid_Trucks/&CID=242
Limited sizes, 144s!
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Expand Quote
I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
DELUXE - SUPERCUSH BUSHINGS Or Indy Aftermarkets in a 97/99+ duro is what you need
You’re suggesting a harder bushing? But I miss the squishy rebound I get from a softer bushing. How would a harder bushing be better?
Legitimately asking. Never been such a nerd about my trucks. Going down the rabbit hole on this one
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIv029VvkiE
tldw
- It's actually 10 grams heavier than the Indy standards
- The kingpin clearance is actually worse than Indy standards
- The hanger is way thicker than than the Indy standards
- Hollow version is supposed to come out this summer
I'm sure all this info was already covered in previous pages but I'm too lazy to check.
If you want a lower indy why you wouldn't get forged hollows? None of the problems listed above.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIv029VvkiE
tldw
- It's actually 10 grams heavier than the Indy standards
- The kingpin clearance is actually worse than Indy standards
- The hanger is way thicker than than the Indy standards
- Hollow version is supposed to come out this summer
I'm sure all this info was already covered in previous pages but I'm too lazy to check.
Exactly! I’m on Tis and as much as I wanna try them there’s no reason for me to.
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I just wanna get my hands on the baseplates with some krux dlks for my standards.
Looks like a stupid ass idea for a truck from them after watching bens video and comparing the specs to standards or hollows. Heavier, lower, less kingpin clearance, I’m good. Can’t wait for the baseplates to be available on their own though, that looks interesting.
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Expand Quote
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIv029VvkiE
tldw
- It's actually 10 grams heavier than the Indy standards
- The kingpin clearance is actually worse than Indy standards
- The hanger is way thicker than than the Indy standards
- Hollow version is supposed to come out this summer
I'm sure all this info was already covered in previous pages but I'm too lazy to check.
I don't understand either. I guess to save like $5 and if you don't like how light FH are?
Really strange design choices made by Indy. Might as well just get Ace tbh.
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Expand Quote
I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
If you're looking for responsiveness and rebound I wouldn't get doh dohs. They also don't really like being cranked down, I've had some split on me when I tried it.
I'd suggest just ordering the blue 92a indy ones (they're the best indy bushings in my opinion) or going for something like the 94a ones that come stock in ventures. They sell them as deluxe supercush and I think they would be your best bet.
If there's nowhere around you that has them then you can order them with free shipping from TGM, or if you have Amazon prime they sometimes have them on the warehouse and you can get next day delivery.
Ok, thank you! Much appreciated!
I almost grabbed a set of the 92a Indy bushings. Gonna have to go back to that shop and get them.
I like the way the black 94a Indy bushings look, but if it’s the blue ones I need, then it’s all good. Haha
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After watching Ben Degros' review, I think I'm gonna stick to Aces, thank you very much.
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Madness got me thinkin though....Titanium high hanger, mid baseplate, krux kingpin.
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Madness got me thinkin though....Titanium high hanger, mid baseplate, krux kingpin.
This is actually what I’m planning to do.
Even ordered an extra 2 sets of Krux kingpins.
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I ordered a set. Fuck it. I'm not getting any younger.
Yeah, the latter. They are noticeably heavier. But, I'll give them a poke in a bit.
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Madness got me thinkin though....Titanium high hanger, mid baseplate, krux kingpin.
Wonder if they are just going to sell the baseplate. Indy usually does....Its a sick design. Given how much extra meat is in the hanger what's gonna be a bummer is paying for a titanium version and it still weighing a lot.
I mentioned this, but I'm guessing this had to do with an easier manufacturing process because I don't think it was market demand....
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Madness got me thinkin though....Titanium high hanger, mid baseplate, krux kingpin.
Wonder if they are just going to sell the baseplate. Indy usually does....Its a sick design. Given how much extra meat is in the hanger what's gonna be a bummer is paying for a titanium version and it still weighing a lot.
I mentioned this, but I'm guessing this had to do with an easier manufacturing process because I don't think it was market demand....
They are going to sell the baseplates, but not until the spring.
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Madness got me thinkin though....Titanium high hanger, mid baseplate, krux kingpin.
Even ordered an extra 2 sets of Krux kingpins.
I did it and went with the opposite, forged plate, new hanger, down in the 50/51mm range, and lighter.
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Madness got me thinkin though....Titanium high hanger, mid baseplate, krux kingpin.
Even ordered an extra 2 sets of Krux kingpins.
I did it and went with the opposite, forged plate, new hanger, down in the 50/51mm range, and lighter.
Interesting. How do they ride?
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Madness got me thinkin though....Titanium high hanger, mid baseplate, krux kingpin.
I thought about that, but I don't really want a 55mm high Indy. I like my Ti at 53.5
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Madness got me thinkin though....Titanium high hanger, mid baseplate, krux kingpin.
Even ordered an extra 2 sets of Krux kingpins.
I did it and went with the opposite, forged plate, new hanger, down in the 50/51mm range, and lighter.
I didn't put in a krux pin tho - the clearance is better, not so hefty and feel like indys, faster pop as I have them on 51mm wheels with a low/flat kick....they feel like Mini logos now :P
Going to swap back to the forged ti and keep the 51mm wheels...to balance it all out tho...I'll sacrifice a few mm for the weight savings...skating Tensor ATGs on another board and man, just so good, just wish they were lower.
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Expand Quote
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIv029VvkiE
tldw
- It's actually 10 grams heavier than the Indy standards
- The kingpin clearance is actually worse than Indy standards
- The hanger is way thicker than than the Indy standards
- Hollow version is supposed to come out this summer
I'm sure all this info was already covered in previous pages but I'm too lazy to check.
I don't understand either. I guess to save like $5 and if you don't like how light FH are?
Really strange design choices made by Indy. Might as well just get Ace tbh.
^ Seriously. Did they even think this out, or was it just like "How can we make a heavier truck, that doesn't lock-in as good, and hangs-up on Smith/Feeble grinds...oh, I know!!!" Wait till they go full NHS turboclown and stick Sponge Bob on the baseplate or something. That said, I ride Indy Ti.
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tldw
- It's actually 10 grams heavier than the Indy standards
- The kingpin clearance is actually worse than Indy standards
- The hanger is way thicker than than the Indy standards
- Hollow version is supposed to come out this summer
I'm sure all this info was already covered in previous pages but I'm too lazy to check.
I don't understand either. I guess to save like $5 and if you don't like how light FH are?
Really strange design choices made by Indy. Might as well just get Ace tbh.
^ Seriously. Did they even think this out, or was it just like "How can we make a heavier truck, that doesn't lock-in as good, and hangs-up on Smith/Feeble grinds...oh, I know!!!" Wait till they go full NHS turboclown and stick Sponge Bob on the baseplate or something. That said, I ride Indy Ti.
All of this. Was on forged hollow Indy's more than anything else (probably gonna stick with Aces from here on out). Was curious about the mids, but good lord, everything about that review sounds unappealing. Seems like they shot themselves in the foot with trying to keep a lot of shit interchangeable with standard Stage XI's. Couldn't lower the height of the bushings, same with the baseplate, so they'e stuck making every adjustment within the hanger. If you're only adjusting hanger height, the kingpin clearance has nowhere to go but down. So you add more meat, more weight....on a mid. Genuinely fucking weird design choices. Hex/allen combo adjustment will forever be a shit compromise.
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I find these trucks attractive
(https://i.ibb.co/YXXRK6P/Abandoned-Unknown-Blobfish-size-restricted.gif) (https://imgbb.com/)
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The only thing that matters is the baseplates. It is the most secure option on the market for running an inverted kingpin, just gotta replace the mid hanger with a high and you're good to go.
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This thread makes ace look better and better
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This made me laugh ;D https://www.instagram.com/p/CHL9ra5FZ7b/?igshid=11ed7hhf51paw
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Indy 149 MiD baseplate
Indy 149 Stage XI Hollow Hangar
Krux Downlow Hollow Kingpin and washers
Supercush 88a bushings
Riptide pivot cups
(https://i.imgur.com/dO92fjQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2aPTJo5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a95V0Xe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zaBnHBO.jpg)
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Indy 149 MiD baseplate
Indy 149 Stage XI Hollow Hangar
Krux Downlow Hollow Kingpin and washers
Supercush 88a bushings
Riptide pivot cups
Big dick move to post with 'rona flipflops and socks. Jokes. Same height as a normal Stage XI when all's said and done?
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Yessir, 55mm even
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Yessir, 55mm even
Much obliged. I already said it, but it's just weird that they went with every dimensional change in the hanger. I get that using the same baseplate dims probably saves them insane amount of buck, but fuck me the stock mid is an unappealing hybrid.
Anyone throw a Kreper pin on these yet?
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Much obliged. I already said it, but it's just weird that they went with every dimensional change in the hanger. I get that using the same baseplate dims probably saves them insane amount of buck, but fuck me the stock mid is an unappealing hybrid.
Anyone throw a Kreper pin on these yet?
I actually have a set of Kreper pins but i chose to go with the krux downlows instead. Not sure what the advantages of the Kreper pin would be... Doesn't seem like it would afford any more clearance. Although my buddy did tell me earlier tonight that the downlow top washer fucks up the boardside bushing.
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Much obliged. I already said it, but it's just weird that they went with every dimensional change in the hanger. I get that using the same baseplate dims probably saves them insane amount of buck, but fuck me the stock mid is an unappealing hybrid.
Anyone throw a Kreper pin on these yet?
I actually have a set of Kreper pins but i chose to go with the krux downlows instead. Not sure what the advantages of the Kreper pin would be... Doesn't seem like it would afford any more clearance. Although my buddy did tell me earlier tonight that the downlow top washer fucks up the boardside bushing.
What about throwing flat washers?
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I don't think a flat washer would work with the Krux kingpin... the top washer is specifically designed to sort of encapsulate the kingpin. Kind of hard to explain but you can see it in the pictures
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I don't think a flat washer would work with the Krux kingpin... the top washer is specifically designed to sort of encapsulate the kingpin. Kind of hard to explain but you can see it in the pictures
Yeah, the Downlow's allen head are countersunk into the top washer, also kind of a weird design to be honest, for a kingpin anyway.
As for the Kreper, probably not much, or any, extra clearance, but I always remembered them being pretty robust, good steel... even if you did get deck dimples, which was annoying. Grosso was setting them up on his Aces near the end, which was pretty sick.
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The deck dimples being where the king pin is tightened down enough to push into the board? How does that affect anything? or is it just cosmetic?
I have the krux king pins tightened as far as it seems they will go into the indy mid baseplate. I think the nut in there has some nylock or something weird at the end of the nut which is actually preventing me from tightening it anymore without tremendous force and possibly stripping the allen head of the kingpin. It's weird because the back truck I got just tight enough to secure everything down (still loose af tho) but the front truck, tightened as far as I can comfortably take it, still rattles a little bit. When these soft bushings im using now get too soft I'm gonna switch in some indy aftermarkets and possibly the Kreper pin just to try it out.
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Much obliged. I already said it, but it's just weird that they went with every dimensional change in the hanger. I get that using the same baseplate dims probably saves them insane amount of buck, but fuck me the stock mid is an unappealing hybrid.
Anyone throw a Kreper pin on these yet?
I have, plan is to hanger swap forged Ti 169 and setup with the Winkowski Birdcage...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGtZWWaFNZl/?igshid=1ckue6aqejzsx
https://www.instagram. com/p/CGtZWWaFNZl/?igshid=gs11wwkovcgh
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Looks like the new kingpin doesn't have enough threading. That's probably why you can't turn it passed a certain point.
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I have the krux king pins tightened as far as it seems they will go into the indy mid baseplate. I think the nut in there has some nylock or something weird at the end of the nut which is actually preventing me from tightening it anymore without tremendous force and possibly stripping the allen head of the kingpin.
The Krux Kingpin is not threaded all the way, so that's probably the issue. I had the same problem when putting a Krux into Indy Stage 7. I ended up using some vintage G&S kinpins that are threaded the full length and all was good.
One option may be to thread the Krux a bit further: https://www.grainger.com/product/19T168?gclid=Cj0KCQiAhZT9BRDmARIsAN2E-J3ZyEn02e4kX0pjiJytyUVMftJLGS-B_5HKmKdziRMSuLvQTT1Ki4waAr4LEALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQiAhZT9BRDmARIsAN2E-J3ZyEn02e4kX0pjiJytyUVMftJLGS-B_5HKmKdziRMSuLvQTT1Ki4waAr4LEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275555!!!g!469986199860!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231
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Thanks yall. Think I'm gonna swap out to the Kreper pins.
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(https://i.imgur.com/NQGSokom.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/46F0Ielm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KdyW6ANm.jpg)
Echoing other folks, bought these mainly to swap with existing stuff.
Here's the results....
Stage XI hollow 144 hangers with new Indy inverted KP baseplates. (54mm tall + 364 grams)
New mid 144 hangers with forged hollow baseplates. (49mm tall + 356 grams)
Both sets with Bones hards on back + meds on front. All nuts flush/a hair past nylock.
Correct bushing hardness with the inverted baseplates is a MUST. Especially if swapping to krux, which has slightly fewer threads than the indy kingpin. The nut embedded in the new indy baseplate def. has more threads than a reg kingpin nut, causing any kingpin to stop turning if cranked down beyond a certain point. (not going to attempt any madness of tooling extra threads on a krux kingpin, for 8 grams of weight savings)
After several sessions at the park, LOVE the hollow hanger/inverted baseplate. Great KP clearance, good pop right off the bat, and that smooth Indy feel. I'm used to stage VIIs so the height + weight was not an issue.
Will be trying out the mid hanger/forged baseplate next. Thinking of setting them up on a 8.3-8.5 football shape w/ some small wheels for a little low + wide early 90s action.
keep rollin' slap pals....
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Would low bushings offer more comfort. Just because the Krux kingpin is shorter?
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Would low bushings offer more comfort. Just because the Krux kingpin is shorter?
Yep, I've ACE low tops/regs bottom in mine with the Krux pin, about the max clearance you're going to get unless you shave down the top bushing (or put low bottoms in).
Honestly it's not that much of an issue, tho I am not grinding the KP yet, it's more about the weight because I'm a bitch that way.
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The deck dimples being where the king pin is tightened down enough to push into the board? How does that affect anything? or is it just cosmetic?
I have the krux king pins tightened as far as it seems they will go into the indy mid baseplate. I think the nut in there has some nylock or something weird at the end of the nut which is actually preventing me from tightening it anymore without tremendous force and possibly stripping the allen head of the kingpin. It's weird because the back truck I got just tight enough to secure everything down (still loose af tho) but the front truck, tightened as far as I can comfortably take it, still rattles a little bit. When these soft bushings im using now get too soft I'm gonna switch in some indy aftermarkets and possibly the Kreper pin just to try it out.
Yeah purely cosmetic. When the pin was (over)tightened and when the bushings would compress on landings over a period of time. In reality, I was a kid when i saw this in the early 2000's so it's likely the decks were old as shit and waterlogged by the time the dimple happened.
Cool to see the Kreper pin being used on these frankentrucks, definitely looks to have some advantages over the stock/Krux options - lower, more adjustment range, flat washer option, maybe even a bit lighter with all that considered.
-
(https://i.imgur.com/NQGSokom.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/46F0Ielm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KdyW6ANm.jpg)
Echoing other folks, bought these mainly to swap with existing stuff.
Here's the results....
Stage XI hollow 144 hangers with new Indy inverted KP baseplates. (54mm tall + 364 grams)
New mid 144 hangers with forged hollow baseplates. (49mm tall + 356 grams)
Both sets with Bones hards on back + meds on front. All nuts flush/a hair past nylock.
Correct bushing hardness with the inverted baseplates is a MUST. Especially if swapping to krux, which has slightly fewer threads than the indy kingpin. The nut embedded in the new indy baseplate def. has more threads than a reg kingpin nut, causing any kingpin to stop turning if cranked down beyond a certain point. (not going to attempt any madness of tooling extra threads on a krux kingpin, for 8 grams of weight savings)
After several sessions at the park, LOVE the hollow hanger/inverted baseplate. Great KP clearance, good pop right off the bat, and that smooth Indy feel. I'm used to stage VIIs so the height + weight was not an issue.
Will be trying out the mid hanger/forged baseplate next. Thinking of setting them up on a 8.3-8.5 football shape w/ some small wheels for a little low + wide early 90s action.
keep rollin' slap pals....
So happy I'm not this messed up. (not disrespect tho)
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Expand Quote
(https://i.imgur.com/NQGSokom.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/46F0Ielm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KdyW6ANm.jpg)
Echoing other folks, bought these mainly to swap with existing stuff.
Here's the results....
Stage XI hollow 144 hangers with new Indy inverted KP baseplates. (54mm tall + 364 grams)
New mid 144 hangers with forged hollow baseplates. (49mm tall + 356 grams)
Both sets with Bones hards on back + meds on front. All nuts flush/a hair past nylock.
Correct bushing hardness with the inverted baseplates is a MUST. Especially if swapping to krux, which has slightly fewer threads than the indy kingpin. The nut embedded in the new indy baseplate def. has more threads than a reg kingpin nut, causing any kingpin to stop turning if cranked down beyond a certain point. (not going to attempt any madness of tooling extra threads on a krux kingpin, for 8 grams of weight savings)
After several sessions at the park, LOVE the hollow hanger/inverted baseplate. Great KP clearance, good pop right off the bat, and that smooth Indy feel. I'm used to stage VIIs so the height + weight was not an issue.
Will be trying out the mid hanger/forged baseplate next. Thinking of setting them up on a 8.3-8.5 football shape w/ some small wheels for a little low + wide early 90s action.
keep rollin' slap pals....
specifically in regard to....?
By doing what every other person on this thread is doing?
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Just set a pair of 159’s up, only swapping the stocks for aftermarket soft conical bushings. Wanted an honest look at em before tinkering. Don’t think I will be now. They turn like you’d expect an Indy would.
Heavier yeah, but I’ve never been one to notice a few grams. Kudos to anyone who has those princess and the pea feet. I’m just trying to get some.
Dig the extra meat on the bone. Slapped right out the box, no hang ups. First thought was the KP was pure gimmick but not shredding the end of the KP and having a key on me to dial in the trucks was convenient.
I fuck with em. The shield is corny on the plate, could’ve lived without that.
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Just set a pair of 159’s up, only swapping the stocks for aftermarket soft conical bushings. Wanted an honest look at em before tinkering. Don’t think I will be now. They turn like you’d expect an Indy would.
Heavier yeah, but I’ve never been one to notice a few grams. Kudos to anyone who has those princess and the pea feet. I’m just trying to get some.
Dig the extra meat on the bone. Slapped right out the box, no hang ups. First thought was the KP was pure gimmick but not shredding the end of the KP and having a key on me to dial in the trucks was convenient.
I fuck with em. The shield is corny on the plate, could’ve lived without that.
Only indys I have left are stage 11 159s, USA. Favorite indys ever.
Good to hear you liked the mids, they seem sick.
I am a princess and need them lighter if I go above 8”, but still .....trying not to be too curious about these.
The shield does look EXTRA corny, which, for indy....is saying something (the maga cornballs of skateboarding <just a vibe they give me>). Truck would look real decent with just, wait for it, no shield. Coulda/shoulda just left that spot blank.
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Yeah if I end up pulling the trigger on the mids with the krux pin/high hanger im putting a sticker over that baseplate stamp. Looks like an Indy/Warner Bros collab lol.
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Yeah if I end up pulling the trigger on the mids with the krux pin/high hanger im putting a sticker over that baseplate stamp. Looks like an Indy/Warner Bros collab lol.
Or more like the crusader/templar shit nutjobs plaster over ridiculous tac gear....
Definition of a lateral move.
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Yeah if I end up pulling the trigger on the mids with the krux pin/high hanger im putting a sticker over that baseplate stamp. Looks like an Indy/Warner Bros collab lol.
idk, i would just skate them and the shield would be gone in a month, to each their own i guess.
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Not even a month. I've skated three times with these plates doing a handful of tailslides each session and those shields are long gone
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Alright, I'm having the exact same issue, Cant tighten them down after a certain point and they're still super loose. I took the truck apart to make sure I wasn't screwing down the KP into a crooked nut but everything looked straight, super frustrating.
Is changing to a different kingpin/bushings the only fix?
I actually like the height of the trucks(actually seem lower than my Ti Forged i had before) and don't notice the weight too much but having my trucks this loose is a super big turn off.
This kingpin makes it harder to lock into hurricanes too.
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I want a mid indy with a normal kingpin. I basically just want stage 10s.
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I want a mid indy with a normal kingpin. I basically just want stage 10s.
Right there with ya. With all the frankenfuckery going on in this thread, you ask yourself, “can’t it all be so simple?”
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Alright, I'm having the exact same issue, Cant tighten them down after a certain point and they're still super loose. I took the truck apart to make sure I wasn't screwing down the KP into a crooked nut but everything looked straight, super frustrating.
Is changing to a different kingpin/bushings the only fix?
I actually like the height of the trucks(actually seem lower than my Ti Forged i had before) and don't notice the weight too much but having my trucks this loose is a super big turn off.
This kingpin makes it harder to lock into hurricanes too.
Fuck those yellow doh-dohs. Don’t do it to yourself. The top bushing crumbles instantly. You may want to try the blue Indy aftermarket bushings. 92A. Tactics has them online right now.
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Alright, I'm having the exact same issue, Cant tighten them down after a certain point and they're still super loose. I took the truck apart to make sure I wasn't screwing down the KP into a crooked nut but everything looked straight, super frustrating.
Is changing to a different kingpin/bushings the only fix?
I actually like the height of the trucks(actually seem lower than my Ti Forged i had before) and don't notice the weight too much but having my trucks this loose is a super big turn off.
This kingpin makes it harder to lock into hurricanes too.
Yeah, the after market 92s may be a good choice!
With a set amount of tightening that can be done before KP stops turning, with either stock mid or Krux KP, your bushing/washer choice is key.
I'm running mine with stock mid KP, bones hards on back + meds on front. Flat washers top/bottom on both.
The kingpins are flush/a hair past the nylock on baseplate nuts.
Feels great.
Same thing with any truck really. Nuts should be flush, maybe a thread showing.
Loose/tight depends on your personal preference of bushings + washers, not how much you crank down the kingpin nut.
(also agree with other folks, the shield on the baseplates is kind of weird, but won't last long with wear)
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I want a mid indy with a normal kingpin. I basically just want stage 10s.
Venture hi. Sorta. Height and turning is similar in a non scientific/complete bullshit me just ‘remembering’ how stage 10s felt. May have to adjust for wheelbase. I’ve repeated this an obnoxious amount of times, but: if I’m skating regular sized for me board 7.75-8 I don’t need to make any special concessions for equipment. Once I start fucking with 8.5 trucks tho....indy 149s are less difficult for me to integrate than 5.8s (5.8s are for non wimps). A long confusing way for me to say that I find ventures to ‘run slightly larger’. If that makes sense. Which it probably won’t.
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(https://i.imgur.com/NQGSokom.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/46F0Ielm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KdyW6ANm.jpg)
Echoing other folks, bought these mainly to swap with existing stuff.
Here's the results....
Stage XI hollow 144 hangers with new Indy inverted KP baseplates. (54mm tall + 364 grams)
New mid 144 hangers with forged hollow baseplates. (49mm tall + 356 grams)
Both sets with Bones hards on back + meds on front. All nuts flush/a hair past nylock.
Correct bushing hardness with the inverted baseplates is a MUST. Especially if swapping to krux, which has slightly fewer threads than the indy kingpin. The nut embedded in the new indy baseplate def. has more threads than a reg kingpin nut, causing any kingpin to stop turning if cranked down beyond a certain point. (not going to attempt any madness of tooling extra threads on a krux kingpin, for 8 grams of weight savings)
After several sessions at the park, LOVE the hollow hanger/inverted baseplate. Great KP clearance, good pop right off the bat, and that smooth Indy feel. I'm used to stage VIIs so the height + weight was not an issue.
Will be trying out the mid hanger/forged baseplate next. Thinking of setting them up on a 8.3-8.5 football shape w/ some small wheels for a little low + wide early 90s action.
keep rollin' slap pals....
This post got me so stoked. You guys are fucked in the head with all these slight changes. I love it.
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I want a mid indy with a normal kingpin. I basically just want stage 10s.
Does anyone know if you can just flip the inverted king pin on the mids so that the nut is on top?
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I want a mid indy with a normal kingpin. I basically just want stage 10s.
Does anyone know if you can just flip the inverted king pin on the mids so that the nut is on top?
the nut in the baseplate is pretty locked in there
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I want a mid indy with a normal kingpin. I basically just want stage 10s.
Does anyone know if you can just flip the inverted king pin on the mids so that the nut is on top?
Won't work, the nut isn't a standard one, it's like a sleeve. Indy has pics of an exploded diagram showing all the pieces.
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I want a mid indy with a normal kingpin. I basically just want stage 10s.
Does anyone know if you can just flip the inverted king pin on the mids so that the nut is on top?
Won't work, the nut isn't a standard one, it's like a sleeve. Indy has pics of an exploded diagram showing all the pieces.
True, but I'm more concerned if the inverted end will fit in the baseplate, I can always use a nut from another pair of trucks.
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Refer to Xen's post on page 10, if you remove that sleeve, you'll be left with a gap to fill when if you want to run a regular kingpin. Not even worth the effort.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
It's a sleeve, just look at the top of the base plate; it appears that the nut is attached to this sleeve(? I have no way to tell and don't feel like banging it out and fucking up the truck); nut doesn't spin and it doesn't fall out when you dismantle it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3353649#msg3353649
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Refer to Xen's post on page 10, if you remove that sleeve, you'll be left with a gap to fill when if you want to run a regular kingpin. Not even worth the effort.
Expand Quote
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
It's a sleeve, just look at the top of the base plate; it appears that the nut is attached to this sleeve(? I have no way to tell and don't feel like banging it out and fucking up the truck); nut doesn't spin and it doesn't fall out when you dismantle it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3353649#msg3353649
Oh shit, I had no idea that it actually went all the way through the baseplate, thanks.
I bought these trucks and skated them today and I find them unskateable. The kingpin clearance is pretty bad, and on top of that if the kingpin touches on any grind you're gonna stick hard. I can normally smith grind ledges and rails consistently especially with new trucks, I stuck almost on every attempt.
I think I'm gonna try and put a low kingpin in my old forged indy baseplates and try the mid hangers on that. I was pretty excited to have lower Indy's again, but am terribly disappointed with these.
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Expand Quote
Refer to Xen's post on page 10, if you remove that sleeve, you'll be left with a gap to fill when if you want to run a regular kingpin. Not even worth the effort.
Expand Quote
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
It's a sleeve, just look at the top of the base plate; it appears that the nut is attached to this sleeve(? I have no way to tell and don't feel like banging it out and fucking up the truck); nut doesn't spin and it doesn't fall out when you dismantle it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3353649#msg3353649
Oh shit, I had no idea that it actually went all the way through the baseplate, thanks.
I bought these trucks and skated them today and I find them unskateable. The kingpin clearance is pretty bad, and on top of that if the kingpin touches on any grind you're gonna stick hard. I can normally smith grind ledges and rails consistently especially with new trucks, I stuck almost on every attempt.
I think I'm gonna try and put a low kingpin in my old forged indy baseplates and try the mid hangers on that. I was pretty excited to have lower Indy's again, but am terribly disappointed with these.
How did you like the height of these compared to the forged? I had forged Ti before but the 53.5 felt a bit tall, I liked the mids height but the kingpin sucks
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Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Refer to Xen's post on page 10, if you remove that sleeve, you'll be left with a gap to fill when if you want to run a regular kingpin. Not even worth the effort.
Expand Quote
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
It's a sleeve, just look at the top of the base plate; it appears that the nut is attached to this sleeve(? I have no way to tell and don't feel like banging it out and fucking up the truck); nut doesn't spin and it doesn't fall out when you dismantle it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3353649#msg3353649
Oh shit, I had no idea that it actually went all the way through the baseplate, thanks.
I bought these trucks and skated them today and I find them unskateable. The kingpin clearance is pretty bad, and on top of that if the kingpin touches on any grind you're gonna stick hard. I can normally smith grind ledges and rails consistently especially with new trucks, I stuck almost on every attempt.
I think I'm gonna try and put a low kingpin in my old forged indy baseplates and try the mid hangers on that. I was pretty excited to have lower Indy's again, but am terribly disappointed with these.
How did you like the height of these compared to the forged? I had forged Ti before but the 53.5 felt a bit tall, I liked the mids height but the kingpin sucks
Do yourself a favor and get ahold of some stage 10's, then take a forged stage 11 baseplate and put the stage 10 hanger on there. Add Bones bushings and treat your feet to some good feelings. 51.5 height, nice and light with the hollow kingpin and a decent turning radius.
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Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Refer to Xen's post on page 10, if you remove that sleeve, you'll be left with a gap to fill when if you want to run a regular kingpin. Not even worth the effort.
Expand Quote
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkmNy2GkouC_Ba3Pg8jaVtReH1losFIcaVgtC7MqRUW0Rmn91u7qyHSfJT9Y-Cd5EXzx_Wz81f6RsQ5a7imp3zKn70zWFzZ4XuB4JR0J30cQkN-SvNma2S_URx41MBjJgnJaJqlc1cs)
It's a sleeve, just look at the top of the base plate; it appears that the nut is attached to this sleeve(? I have no way to tell and don't feel like banging it out and fucking up the truck); nut doesn't spin and it doesn't fall out when you dismantle it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c1p6XH2detBz4uOuCNr2mFJKwX5gPy_JfcR5TF5554WznggKfWejd_9GHNJKPc5lgrXPchCFQbfWj9xG8fvIL4yG7KTH3Y2xtrypPrKAHEK4kDcwxxy8S2IDk7q3yODKikxuxiE8XF8)
Good luck A) getting it out and B) getting it into another plate, not gonna happen. It's in there tight, doesn't fall out/zero wiggle. Got to admit it's nice to have a baseplate that works with no risk of the nut falling out (no clue how film does it)
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=106832.msg3353649#msg3353649
Oh shit, I had no idea that it actually went all the way through the baseplate, thanks.
I bought these trucks and skated them today and I find them unskateable. The kingpin clearance is pretty bad, and on top of that if the kingpin touches on any grind you're gonna stick hard. I can normally smith grind ledges and rails consistently especially with new trucks, I stuck almost on every attempt.
I think I'm gonna try and put a low kingpin in my old forged indy baseplates and try the mid hangers on that. I was pretty excited to have lower Indy's again, but am terribly disappointed with these.
How did you like the height of these compared to the forged? I had forged Ti before but the 53.5 felt a bit tall, I liked the mids height but the kingpin sucks
Forged titanium 149s might've been my favorite Indy's I have skated. However, my flip tricks have improved since switching to the mids, could be more to do with going from 149 to 144, but who knows.
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Just rock the mid hanger on a forged plate. 51mm ish and lighter.
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Do yourself a favor and get ahold of some stage 10's, then take a forged stage 11 baseplate and put the stage 10 hanger on there. Add Bones bushings and treat your feet to some good feelings. 51.5 height, nice and light with the hollow kingpin and a decent turning radius.
Yesterday I picked up a $25 craigslist board with Stage 10 149s. I need to try some other bushings because the turn wasn't great. I messed around last night on these, some stage 7s and stage 11 ti with bones.. Like the turn of the stage 11s best.
I have stage 6s with Bones on my cruiser board.
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no wheelbase measurements? for shame slap, for shame
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no wheelbase measurements? for shame slap, for shame
Hah, I didn't bother, I can tell you (and I think it's my big post on them) that side by side you can tell they are more forward/inward facing that forged, thereby tightening it up even further than usual.
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Anyone else spend any time with these? That Ron Whaley video made me curious.
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Anyone else spend any time with these? That Ron Whaley video made me curious.
Seconded.
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Anyone else spend any time with these? That Ron Whaley video made me curious.
What Ron Whaley video, can you link it?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gfk_W3W-xY0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gfk_W3W-xY0)
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Just watched this AM. Doesn’t really peak my interest in the Indy mids but just my own set up/gear/wheel size/quick pop
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Skated them for few months, now moved on a bigger board. Had soft conical bushings on them.
They are good truck, but to me it didn't feel that much different than normal Indys. They do get that inverted kingpin rattle feel pretty easily but i like it. Didn't also notice weight being any different although i tend to like my setups feeling heavy anyway. That being said I would say that until the HF/Titanium version comes there isn't that much reason to get these over standards. They are cool truck, but ain't really that different
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Might just be me, but it seems that anyone who wants that bigger board feel with more tech smaller wheel / not a high setup and is not concerned with weight is going to benefit more from these, especially in the 159 type range.
Pretty cool how many modifications there have been though.
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So when mixing a standard hi Indy hanger with the MiD baseplate, when using a proper height bottom bushing, lets say a stock or aftermarket Indy, people are saying the Krux kingpin/Indy MiD kingpin doesn't have enough threads to hit the nylock at the end of the nut inside the baseplate? Only the Kreper kingpin is the solution? Just want to clarify because I am still curious about trying this set-up.
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So when mixing a standard hi Indy hanger with the MiD baseplate, when using a proper height bottom bushing, lets say a stock or aftermarket Indy, people are saying the Krux kingpin/Indy MiD kingpin doesn't have enough threads to hit the nylock at the end of the nut inside the baseplate? Only the Kreper kingpin is the solution? Just want to clarify because I am still curious about trying this set-up.
Go to page one, you can see my post where I have a MID plate and Ti Hanger (same as a standard hanger); I had no issues getting the krux or indy pin to catch threads using stock bushings.
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Switched over from a long venture low kick. These feel good so far. The bushings are starting to feel good after the first session. Also the pivot cup came lubed (sweet). Im riding them on a
DOA flat 8.0
144 indy mids
Spitfire 51 mm classic, classic formula.
First session sucked. Wheel bite up and down. Busings felt too wobbly. My kickflips were gone. But what gave me hope was getting my fs flips good.
Today they felt amazing. Less wheelbite and got my kf back. Bushings break in so nicely.
Feels good.
Reminds me of two boards i had.
Rowley sprint devil stage seven indys
And cholate chico with stage 8
The turning and pop feel like it did back then.
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This hex/allen kingpin with a washer under... barely looks any lower than a regular kingpin nut ground down?
Certainly looks inferior to the grind king/kreper, krux solutions despite the marketing
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This hex/allen kingpin with a washer under... barely looks any lower than a regular kingpin nut ground down?
Certainly looks inferior to the grind king/kreper, krux solutions despite the marketing
Exactly ;)
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Switched over from a long venture low kick. These feel good so far. The bushings are starting to feel good after the first session. Also the pivot cup came lubed (sweet). Im riding them on a
DOA flat 8.0
144 indy mids
Spitfire 51 mm classic, classic formula.
First session sucked. Wheel bite up and down. Busings felt too wobbly. My kickflips were gone. But what gave me hope was getting my fs flips good.
Today they felt amazing. Less wheelbite and got my kf back. Bushings break in so nicely.
Feels good.
Reminds me of two boards i had.
Rowley sprint devil stage seven indys
And cholate chico with stage 8
The turning and pop feel like it did back then.
Are you a crooked grinder? How is the pinch?
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Expand Quote
Switched over from a long venture low kick. These feel good so far. The bushings are starting to feel good after the first session. Also the pivot cup came lubed (sweet). Im riding them on a
DOA flat 8.0
144 indy mids
Spitfire 51 mm classic, classic formula.
First session sucked. Wheel bite up and down. Busings felt too wobbly. My kickflips were gone. But what gave me hope was getting my fs flips good.
Today they felt amazing. Less wheelbite and got my kf back. Bushings break in so nicely.
Feels good.
Reminds me of two boards i had.
Rowley sprint devil stage seven indys
And cholate chico with stage 8
The turning and pop feel like it did back then.
Are you a crooked grinder? How is the pinch?
Been refreshing this page too much, this stage 7 and 8 talk got me real thirsty
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Expand Quote
Switched over from a long venture low kick. These feel good so far. The bushings are starting to feel good after the first session. Also the pivot cup came lubed (sweet). Im riding them on a
DOA flat 8.0
144 indy mids
Spitfire 51 mm classic, classic formula.
First session sucked. Wheel bite up and down. Busings felt too wobbly. My kickflips were gone. But what gave me hope was getting my fs flips good.
Today they felt amazing. Less wheelbite and got my kf back. Bushings break in so nicely.
Feels good.
Reminds me of two boards i had.
Rowley sprint devil stage seven indys
And cholate chico with stage 8
The turning and pop feel like it did back then.
Are you a crooked grinder? How is the pinch?
They seem to pinch ok.
It's been raining here so i have not gone to a ledge but they pinch the parking block in my garage fine.
I'll try to skate a ledge tomorrow morning and report back.
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Hey did you ever get your issue sorted out?
I’m running into the same issue with the stock orange bushings. Brand new 159 mids.. Can only tighten kingpin down 2 full rotations before it feels like it’s hitting the deck.
If you did resolve your issue, how did you go about it? I’m about the same weight as you and these bushings aren’t cutting it.
Thanks for your input.
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Expand Quote
I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Hey did you ever get your issue sorted out?
I’m running into the same issue with the stock orange bushings. Brand new 159 mids.. Can only tighten kingpin down 2 full rotations before it feels like it’s hitting the deck.
If you did resolve your issue, how did you go about it? I’m about the same weight as you and these bushings aren’t cutting it.
Thanks for your input.
I ran into the same thing. I just picked up some thunder raws, so the mids live in my closet now
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Hey did you ever get your issue sorted out?
I’m running into the same issue with the stock orange bushings. Brand new 159 mids.. Can only tighten kingpin down 2 full rotations before it feels like it’s hitting the deck.
If you did resolve your issue, how did you go about it? I’m about the same weight as you and these bushings aren’t cutting it.
Thanks for your input.
I ran into the same thing. I just picked up some thunder raws, so the mids live in my closet now
So i just kept riding mine stock ,front tighten a little bit less than the back (back tightened till the hitting the deck feeling), now they rebound great and tightened up and stabalized . Feel great with the stock bushings. I weigh 240 lb.
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I got a set and so far so good.
I asked about this in another thread, just to get more eyes on my problem here.
Having a problem with the bushings though. I can’t tighten them down as far as I like to. Either the kingpin ran out of threads, or it’s hitting the board. I’m on the heavier side (190lbs.) and ride my trucks medium. Had to throw some Indy Hard bushings in, which don’t give me the rebound and responsiveness I get out of the stock orange medium bushings.
Indy Hard bushings are 94a, thinking about getting these Doh-Doh bushings that are 92a, as I can’t find the Indy Medium- Hard bushings anywhere in my area right now.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Hey did you ever get your issue sorted out?
I’m running into the same issue with the stock orange bushings. Brand new 159 mids.. Can only tighten kingpin down 2 full rotations before it feels like it’s hitting the deck.
If you did resolve your issue, how did you go about it? I’m about the same weight as you and these bushings aren’t cutting it.
Thanks for your input.
I ran into the same thing. I just picked up some thunder raws, so the mids live in my closet now
I am curious if you have taken them off, is the kingpin down to the bottom / touching or digging into the deck or would it have hit the end of the thread on the kingpin?
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I've got some brand new unmounted 159 mids and kreper pins if anyone wants to buy them DM me
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Maybe a dumb question, but is axle slip even a thing anymore?
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Maybe a dumb question, but is axle slip even a thing anymore?
I remember Clive Dixon saying he would get some slippage with his thunders, in one of those “my indys” videos.
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Maybe a dumb question, but is axle slip even a thing anymore?
I haven't seen any in a long time, even when people think they have it, when checking it was more commonly the bearing moving in the wheel.
Not to say that it is not happening, but I think the only issue I have seen is the breaking hanger pivot nub more than anything else in the last five or more years.
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Maybe a dumb question, but is axle slip even a thing anymore?
I haven't seen any in a long time, even when people think they have it, when checking it was more commonly the bearing moving in the wheel.
Not to say that it is not happening, but I think the only issue I have seen is the breaking hanger pivot nub more than anything else in the last five or more years.
Word, thank you. Yeah I definitely had bearing slippage because I tried using spacers that didn’t fit.
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I remember seeing/reading somewhere axles now have little ridges that stick out so they grip inside the hanger better after the aluminum cools down
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I remember seeing/reading somewhere axles now have little ridges that stick out so they grip inside the hanger better after the aluminum cools down
Saw something on Rad Rats youtube about that, but was wondering if axle slip was really happening out in the wild, or if it’s a thing of the past like the Rad Rat guy said.
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I’m sure this has already been covered (too lazy to pick through this thread to fine it), but has anyone put forged baseplates on them? Good?...Yay, nay? Lots of wheelbite? What size wheels did you use?
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I’m sure this has already been covered (too lazy to pick through this thread to fine it), but has anyone put forged baseplates on them? Good?...Yay, nay? Lots of wheelbite? What size wheels did you use?
I did. Stock bushings and threw on some 51mm (slim) and 50mm (wide) wheels, they felt good, if not still heavy; I sold them off but will pick up the TI versions of the mids when they drop. Gonna be a really nice low/light indy.
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I’m sure this has already been covered (too lazy to pick through this thread to fine it), but has anyone put forged baseplates on them? Good?...Yay, nay? Lots of wheelbite? What size wheels did you use?
I did. Stock bushings and threw on some 51mm (slim) and 50mm (wide) wheels, they felt good, if not still heavy; I sold them off but will pick up the TI versions of the mids when they drop. Gonna be a really nice low/light indy.
Thanks man. I’ve got 52 conical fulls on it since that’s more or less as small as I go because of all the shit ground I skate on.
Waiting for the titanium jawns would have been a much more logical decision, but got all impulse buy-ey.
I’m going to try them out just stock before I start fucking with them.
They are noticeably heavier than my goto 144 tits, but some people like that. ...I appear to just rambling at this point here.
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So they pinch decently. My bs crooks are not that great but my fs crooks pinched so good
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So I bought a pair of 139 mids and it seemed like the kingpin nut wasn't staying tightened, seemed like my one truck would loosen by itself (even after tightening it down enough so that it wouldn't normally loosen by itself). Basically, I would see the kingpin nut at one position during the sesh, then look down at it, say, half an hour later, and it seemed to be in a totally different position, which bugged me out.
I chalked it up to a defective pair (?), and decided to try another pair- this time, 149 mids:
On this pair, to make sure nothing was just in my head, I marked a line in sharpie at "12 o' clock" on the kingpin nut after tightening the trucks enough to make sure the kingpin wouldn't (normally) loosen by itself . Sure enough, by the end of the second session with the 149s, the line I marked was now at around "8 o' clock". I did not touch the kingpin nut with a tool throughout the entire session. The weird thing is, I'm not even sure if my truck feels any tighter/looser on the 149 with the kingpin nut rotating by itself.
Is this somehow normal? Or did I just get really unlucky with two consecutive defective pairs?
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I am curious if you have taken them off, is the kingpin down to the bottom / touching or digging into the deck or would it have hit the end of the thread on the kingpin?
I’m way late to this party, but the kingpin hits the end of threads well before it digs into the deck. No punching through part of your deck with these.
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I am curious if you have taken them off, is the kingpin down to the bottom / touching or digging into the deck or would it have hit the end of the thread on the kingpin?
I’m way late to this party, but the kingpin hits the end of threads well before it digs into the deck. No punching through part of your deck with these.
Thanks!
That's ok, and it is good to know too.
From looking at a few other options with inverted kingpins and quite a few were very close to wood or into the wood.
I would guess in the research and development stage that they should have checked this but you never know.
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So I bought a pair of 139 mids and it seemed like the kingpin nut wasn't staying tightened, seemed like my one truck would loosen by itself
Is this somehow normal? Or did I just get really unlucky with two consecutive defective pairs?
This happened to me with krux kingpins in modified indy baseplates; the kingpin was too short, and didn't catch enough of the nylock at the bottom of the baseplate. The vibrations from skating would loosen the kingpins throughout the session. I have an inverted kingpin setup with kreper kingpins that doesn't loosen up at all, its easy to tell because the kreper pins have an etched graphic on em. They're a tad longer, and the nuts have more nylock than krux.
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So I bought a pair of 139 mids and it seemed like the kingpin nut wasn't staying tightened, seemed like my one truck would loosen by itself
Is this somehow normal? Or did I just get really unlucky with two consecutive defective pairs?
One way to help if you find yourself in this situation is to use a little Nylock threadlocker (the blue kind NOT the more permanent red kind). Just apply some to the nut's threads and get it tightened to where you want it and let it sit for a few hours. Occasionally you will need to re-do this application, and for sure re-do it any time you take the truck apart to mess with bushings or whatever. I had to do this for years with that modification I was doing to make Thunder's with inverted kingpins, wasn't too much of a pain.
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Can’t you guys just flip the nut upside down so the nylon side is up? That way it will always catch the nylon part, even if it’s a short kingpin. It’s also hidden under the truck so aesthetically wouldn’t bother me.
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Can’t you guys just flip the nut upside down so the nylon side is up? That way it will always catch the nylon part, even if it’s a short kingpin. It’s also hidden under the truck so aesthetically wouldn’t bother me.
I am not sure you can remove the kingpin nut in the indy mids that easily, otherwise that would be a good solution.
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Can’t you guys just flip the nut upside down so the nylon side is up? That way it will always catch the nylon part, even if it’s a short kingpin. It’s also hidden under the truck so aesthetically wouldn’t bother me.
I am not sure you can remove the kingpin nut in the indy mids that easily, otherwise that would be a good solution.
Yeah true, I was actually more thinking of "modified" regular baseplates, when you need to use the epoxy to fix the nut.
On the mids I think the nut is this weird one that you cant flip, so this method wouldn't work.
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Can’t you guys just flip the nut upside down so the nylon side is up? That way it will always catch the nylon part, even if it’s a short kingpin. It’s also hidden under the truck so aesthetically wouldn’t bother me.
I am not sure you can remove the kingpin nut in the indy mids that easily, otherwise that would be a good solution.
It would require a significant effort to remove it (a machine shop more than likely). It's not just a simple 'kingpin' nut jammed in there but a full/unique assembly.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0363/1955/9812/products/1220THR_IN_MID_inside_AD_grande.jpg?v=1603819564)
Haven't heard much in regards to the hollow or ti models...let alone the stand alone plates; I'm wondering if the sales just didn't make it worth it to continue branching out the line.
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Got some mids 149s with a hollow krux Dlk kingpin and some ace bushingS. With the stock kingpin and bushings I couldn’t get these trucks tight enough, but now they’re perfect and I love them.
I do have to check my kingpin every few seshes to make sure they’re tight, the back truck kingpin does loosen sometimes but I’m not bothered by it.
I actually really don’t like the Indy dlk or the new krux dlk. I don’t know why krux changed it, the new one is not hollow and it’s not as low.
Indy kingpin is the same. Tbh the Kingpin clearance on these trucks with the iNdy DLK isn’t anything special at all. It hardly seems lower than the normal kingpins.
I’ll post some pics later maybe, but the old krux kingpin practically sits inside the top bushing making it way low, whereas the new kingpins sit ontop of the bushings and are even higher so you get can a tool on the nut instead of just using an Allen like the old ones.
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Got some mids 149s with a hollow krux Dlk kingpin and some ace bushingS. With the stock kingpin and bushings I couldn’t get these trucks tight enough, but now they’re perfect and I love them.
I do have to check my kingpin every few seshes to make sure they’re tight, the back truck kingpin does loosen sometimes but I’m not bothered by it.
I actually really don’t like the Indy dlk or the new krux dlk. I don’t know why krux changed it, the new one is not hollow and it’s not as low.
Indy kingpin is the same. Tbh the Kingpin clearance on these trucks with the iNdy DLK isn’t anything special at all. It hardly seems lower than the normal kingpins.
I’ll post some pics later maybe, but the old krux kingpin practically sits inside the top bushing making it way low, whereas the new kingpins sit ontop of the bushings and are even higher so you get can a tool on the nut instead of just using an Allen like the old ones.
Well it's been noted that the clearance on the mids sucks and that's sort of why they're heavier is due to beefing up the hanger to compensate to for the shit clearance.
I get why they used hex/allen combo instead of JUST allen like the Krux DLK but it feels halfassed...
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Got some mids 149s with a hollow krux Dlk kingpin and some ace bushingS. With the stock kingpin and bushings I couldn’t get these trucks tight enough, but now they’re perfect and I love them.
I do have to check my kingpin every few seshes to make sure they’re tight, the back truck kingpin does loosen sometimes but I’m not bothered by it.
I actually really don’t like the Indy dlk or the new krux dlk. I don’t know why krux changed it, the new one is not hollow and it’s not as low.
Indy kingpin is the same. Tbh the Kingpin clearance on these trucks with the iNdy DLK isn’t anything special at all. It hardly seems lower than the normal kingpins.
I’ll post some pics later maybe, but the old krux kingpin practically sits inside the top bushing making it way low, whereas the new kingpins sit ontop of the bushings and are even higher so you get can a tool on the nut instead of just using an Allen like the old ones.
Well it's been noted that the clearance on the mids sucks and that's sort of why they're heavier is due to beefing up the hanger to compensate to for the shit clearance.
I get why they used hex/allen combo instead of JUST allen like the Krux DLK but it feels halfassed...
Can you use the Old krux downlow in the Indy mids? Just the kingpin I mean.
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Got some mids 149s with a hollow krux Dlk kingpin and some ace bushingS. With the stock kingpin and bushings I couldn’t get these trucks tight enough, but now they’re perfect and I love them.
I do have to check my kingpin every few seshes to make sure they’re tight, the back truck kingpin does loosen sometimes but I’m not bothered by it.
I actually really don’t like the Indy dlk or the new krux dlk. I don’t know why krux changed it, the new one is not hollow and it’s not as low.
Indy kingpin is the same. Tbh the Kingpin clearance on these trucks with the iNdy DLK isn’t anything special at all. It hardly seems lower than the normal kingpins.
I’ll post some pics later maybe, but the old krux kingpin practically sits inside the top bushing making it way low, whereas the new kingpins sit ontop of the bushings and are even higher so you get can a tool on the nut instead of just using an Allen like the old ones.
Well it's been noted that the clearance on the mids sucks and that's sort of why they're heavier is due to beefing up the hanger to compensate to for the shit clearance.
I get why they used hex/allen combo instead of JUST allen like the Krux DLK but it feels halfassed...
Can you use the Old krux downlow in the Indy mids? Just the kingpin I mean.
Yes, it fits - BUT you may need to use a low top/shave it down some unless you ride tight.
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Posted in the trucks thread, but anyone got the intel on when the baseplates (just the baseplates) are going to be available?
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Posted in the trucks thread, but anyone got the intel on when the baseplates (just the baseplates) are going to be available?
NHS replied to me in January and said they’d be available early March 2021. It’s now mid May lol. If you google “independent IKP” the Canadian NHS (and several other Canadian sites) already have them. No clue why the States haven’t gotten them. I even reached out to a shop owner buddy and he hasn’t heard anything about getting them in anytime soon.
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Posted in the trucks thread, but anyone got the intel on when the baseplates (just the baseplates) are going to be available?
NHS replied to me in January and said they’d be available early March 2021. It’s now mid May lol. If you google “independent IKP” the Canadian NHS (and several other Canadian sites) already have them. No clue why the States haven’t gotten them. I even reached out to a shop owner buddy and he hasn’t heard anything about getting them in anytime soon.
I have seen them in Australia too, although they sold out almost instantly as there was only very limited stock.
No idea why they have not been released, but I thought only a few US places got them and also sold out super quickly.
Still quite a few available when searching, as said from Canada.
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Posted in the trucks thread, but anyone got the intel on when the baseplates (just the baseplates) are going to be available?
NHS replied to me in January and said they’d be available early March 2021. It’s now mid May lol. If you google “independent IKP” the Canadian NHS (and several other Canadian sites) already have them. No clue why the States haven’t gotten them. I even reached out to a shop owner buddy and he hasn’t heard anything about getting them in anytime soon.
I have seen them in Australia too, although they sold out almost instantly as there was only very limited stock.
No idea why they have not been released, but I thought only a few US places got them and also sold out super quickly.
Still quite a few available when searching, as said from Canada.
I’ve been religiously searching for them daily since March, I haven’t seen a single USA seller though. I want to throw Indy 144 hollow hangers on there so I’m at the point where I’ll buy Indy mids just for that reason.
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The new bases are dropping soon. There are a lot of online shops that have Mids currently. I swear by the new kingpin.
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The new bases are dropping soon. There are a lot of online shops that have Mids currently. I swear by the new kingpin.
The mids are out there for sure (wonder how much old stock vs. new)? The Tiago model dropped recently tho...I tried gleaning info from someone that would know and they've been tighter than a bull’s asshole in fly season about them.
If I had to guess it's just manufacturing timing/runs, waves rather than monthly drops.
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The new bases are dropping soon. There are a lot of online shops that have Mids currently. I swear by the new kingpin.
The mids are out there for sure (wonder how much old stock vs. new)? The Tiago model dropped recently tho...I tried gleaning info from someone that would know and they've been tighter than a bull’s asshole in fly season about them.
If I had to guess it's just manufacturing timing/runs, waves rather than monthly drops.
It’s strange to me that Canada and UK shops got the base plates and the States haven’t. It doesn’t make much sense
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The new bases are dropping soon. There are a lot of online shops that have Mids currently. I swear by the new kingpin.
The mids are out there for sure (wonder how much old stock vs. new)? The Tiago model dropped recently tho...I tried gleaning info from someone that would know and they've been tighter than a bull’s asshole in fly season about them.
If I had to guess it's just manufacturing timing/runs, waves rather than monthly drops.
It’s strange to me that Canada and UK shops got the base plates and the States haven’t. It doesn’t make much sense
Import issues maybe?
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They're up for sale on https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-Trucks-IKP-Baseplate-And-Kingpin.html (https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-Trucks-IKP-Baseplate-And-Kingpin.html)
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They're up for sale on https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-Trucks-IKP-Baseplate-And-Kingpin.html (https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-Trucks-IKP-Baseplate-And-Kingpin.html)
And 11 in stock. Interesting they wouldn't come up on a search if you used "inverted" though.
I think others will be very happy you posted that too. Gnar for the ones who cannot for you.
I’ve been religiously searching for them daily since March, I haven’t seen a single USA seller though. I want to throw Indy 144 hollow hangers on there so I’m at the point where I’ll buy Indy mids just for that reason.
Anybody know when the Indy inverted kingpin plates are going to be available in the US? I've seen them in some Canada and UK online stores, but no formal announcements or anything.
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@Firebert gnarred. Safe to assume that price is for a set of two, right?
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@Firebert gnarred. Safe to assume that price is for a set of two, right?
Yeah, otherwise they'd be more expensive than the whole set of mids
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If I put Indy tis on the inverted base plate. Will that put me at standard Indy height with reduced weight or forged plate height with a slight smaller wheelbase?
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They're up for sale on https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-Trucks-IKP-Baseplate-And-Kingpin.html (https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-Trucks-IKP-Baseplate-And-Kingpin.html)
And 11 in stock. Interesting they wouldn't come up on a search if you used "inverted" though.
I think others will be very happy you posted that too. Gnar for the ones who cannot for you.
Aaaand 9 in stock. Ordered two sets. Gonna try some 149 stage 8 hangers with a Kreper kingpin for my next setup and some 169 Ti stage 11 hangers with a Krux hollow downlow kingpin for a light wide curb/park setup. Thanks for posting Firebert, and thanks for Gnaring the good man for us Mbrimson88!!
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If I put Indy tis on the inverted base plate. Will that put me at standard Indy height with reduced weight or forged plate height with a slight smaller wheelbase?
I did this when I had the mids. If I remember correctly, all the height reduction was put into the hanger (and then they beefed up the hanger material to give better clearance for their shitty IKP design). The baseplates are standard cast height.
Mid plate + ti Hangers = 55 mm + reduced weight (use the krux pin even lighter)
Mid Hanger + Forged hollow plate = 51mm-ish truck - reduced weight
After skating the Mids, the new AF1s, I can't do heavy trucks. I'm just a bitch that way. If I was skating transition I would give no fucks about truck weight.
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If I put Indy tis on the inverted base plate. Will that put me at standard Indy height with reduced weight or forged plate height with a slight smaller wheelbase?
I did this when I had the mids. If I remember correctly, all the height reduction was put into the hanger (and then they beefed up the hanger material to give better clearance for their shitty IKP design). The baseplates are standard cast height.
Mid plate + ti Hangers = 55 mm + reduced weight (use the krux pin even lighter)
Mid Hanger + Forged hollow plate = 51mm-ish truck - reduced weight
After skating the Mids, the new AF1s, I can't do heavy trucks. I'm just a bitch that way. If I was skating transition I would give no fucks about truck weight.
I feel you on this. AF1s are kinda hit or miss for me right now. Kinda thinking of setting up thunders and brushing up on ledge tricks.
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If I put Indy tis on the inverted base plate. Will that put me at standard Indy height with reduced weight or forged plate height with a slight smaller wheelbase?
I did this when I had the mids. If I remember correctly, all the height reduction was put into the hanger (and then they beefed up the hanger material to give better clearance for their shitty IKP design). The baseplates are standard cast height.
Mid plate + ti Hangers = 55 mm + reduced weight (use the krux pin even lighter)
Mid Hanger + Forged hollow plate = 51mm-ish truck - reduced weight
After skating the Mids, the new AF1s, I can't do heavy trucks. I'm just a bitch that way. If I was skating transition I would give no fucks about truck weight.
I feel you on this. AF1s are kinda hit or miss for me right now. Kinda thinking of setting up thunders and brushing up on ledge tricks.
Had them setup and did a slappy day, anything works for slappies and I even prefer heavier trucks for it...but I also flip and ledge and I just found the AF155s to be heavyass with an 8.5 and 54mm wheels...I dig the turn tho (was on 159 Indy before or 149 Tensor) and I'm just going throw on my Indy forged TI and keep the 159s on the curb crusher.
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So I bought a pair of 139 mids and it seemed like the kingpin nut wasn't staying tightened, seemed like my one truck would loosen by itself (even after tightening it down enough so that it wouldn't normally loosen by itself). Basically, I would see the kingpin nut at one position during the sesh, then look down at it, say, half an hour later, and it seemed to be in a totally different position, which bugged me out.
I chalked it up to a defective pair (?), and decided to try another pair- this time, 149 mids:
On this pair, to make sure nothing was just in my head, I marked a line in sharpie at "12 o' clock" on the kingpin nut after tightening the trucks enough to make sure the kingpin wouldn't (normally) loosen by itself . Sure enough, by the end of the second session with the 149s, the line I marked was now at around "8 o' clock". I did not touch the kingpin nut with a tool throughout the entire session. The weird thing is, I'm not even sure if my truck feels any tighter/looser on the 149 with the kingpin nut rotating by itself.
Is this somehow normal? Or did I just get really unlucky with two consecutive defective pairs?
Yeah i have this problem w one of my indy mid trucks. IT sucks so bad and random that a kingpin cant / wont stay on the set tightness. I remember trying inverted kingpins way back in grind kings and they sucked and to be honest these too. Inverted kingpin is a joke. Dont waste your money on this shit.
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So I bought a pair of 139 mids and it seemed like the kingpin nut wasn't staying tightened, seemed like my one truck would loosen by itself (even after tightening it down enough so that it wouldn't normally loosen by itself). Basically, I would see the kingpin nut at one position during the sesh, then look down at it, say, half an hour later, and it seemed to be in a totally different position, which bugged me out.
I chalked it up to a defective pair (?), and decided to try another pair- this time, 149 mids:
On this pair, to make sure nothing was just in my head, I marked a line in sharpie at "12 o' clock" on the kingpin nut after tightening the trucks enough to make sure the kingpin wouldn't (normally) loosen by itself . Sure enough, by the end of the second session with the 149s, the line I marked was now at around "8 o' clock". I did not touch the kingpin nut with a tool throughout the entire session. The weird thing is, I'm not even sure if my truck feels any tighter/looser on the 149 with the kingpin nut rotating by itself.
Is this somehow normal? Or did I just get really unlucky with two consecutive defective pairs?
Yeah i have this problem w one of my indy mid trucks. IT sucks so bad and random that a kingpin cant / wont stay on the set tightness. I remember trying inverted kingpins way back in grind kings and they sucked and to be honest these too. Inverted kingpin is a joke. Dont waste your money on this shit.
Thanks for the advice. I was going to get a pair out of curiosity but not this time. I will stay with my AF1s, they been working perfectly for me.
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So I bought a pair of 139 mids and it seemed like the kingpin nut wasn't staying tightened, seemed like my one truck would loosen by itself (even after tightening it down enough so that it wouldn't normally loosen by itself). Basically, I would see the kingpin nut at one position during the sesh, then look down at it, say, half an hour later, and it seemed to be in a totally different position, which bugged me out.
I chalked it up to a defective pair (?), and decided to try another pair- this time, 149 mids:
On this pair, to make sure nothing was just in my head, I marked a line in sharpie at "12 o' clock" on the kingpin nut after tightening the trucks enough to make sure the kingpin wouldn't (normally) loosen by itself . Sure enough, by the end of the second session with the 149s, the line I marked was now at around "8 o' clock". I did not touch the kingpin nut with a tool throughout the entire session. The weird thing is, I'm not even sure if my truck feels any tighter/looser on the 149 with the kingpin nut rotating by itself.
Is this somehow normal? Or did I just get really unlucky with two consecutive defective pairs?
Yeah i have this problem w one of my indy mid trucks. IT sucks so bad and random that a kingpin cant / wont stay on the set tightness. I remember trying inverted kingpins way back in grind kings and they sucked and to be honest these too. Inverted kingpin is a joke. Dont waste your money on this shit.
Thanks for the advice. I was going to get a pair out of curiosity but not this time. I will stay with my AF1s, they been working perfectly for me.
You have to try it out for yourself, illl never go back to regular kingpins. I laugh watching my friends try smith/feebles and scrape/ hang up on their kingpins.
I don’t understand why every truck company doesn’t utilize inverted kingpins. this isn’t some kind of gimmick like a bottle opener or axle rethreaders, it’s actually just a better design, plain and simple. Work smarter not harder, having to grind down your kingpin to break in trucks is ridiculous.
So many trucks these days have kingpins that will scape on the very first grind. It baffles me. Just get that kingpin out of the way!
I have hollow krux dlks in my Indy mids and I want to ride this setup for the rest of my life.
I went through 5 pairs of ace 44 classics before I got fed up with their excessively long kingpins (which always come loose btw).
The only minor downside is that I do have to retighten my back truck every few seshes. but this is not an issue, I keep an Allen key in my backpack, and just give it a quick turn before I start my sesh. It literally takes less than five seconds.
I’ll never go back to regular kingpins, anyone who isn’t on inverted kingpins is living in the past, making every grind and truck stall harder than it needs to be.
I will say the Indy dlk sucks though, and so does the new krux one. The hollow krux kingpin is bomb, I also want to try grindking and creepers tho.
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I’ve hung up on my AF1 king pins a few times last time I got to skate. I’m really debating on filing down the 1-2 threads sticking out.
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I’ve hung up on my AF1 king pins a few times last time I got to skate. I’m really debating on filing down the 1-2 threads sticking out.
Ace trucks have a great turn because they have taller bushings, and in order to use taller bushings, they need a longer kingpin.
Ace = best turn in the game at the sacrifice of worst kingpin clearance in the game.
I’ve dremmeled threads off of all my pairs of aces, and even a few of my friends too.
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I’ve hung up on my AF1 king pins a few times last time I got to skate. I’m really debating on filing down the 1-2 threads sticking out.
Ace trucks have a great turn because they have taller bushings, and in order to use taller bushings, they need a longer kingpin.
Ace = best turn in the game at the sacrifice of worst kingpin clearance in the game.
I’ve dremmeled threads off of all my pairs of aces, and even a few of my friends too.
I think you just talked me into it. Ha. I just need to make sure I don’t want to loosen them more than what they are now. Ha
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UV9JYgbkszeYCgpf-Z6sb2lghM9M3NNoebJyGRS4ZSGKjtLZSSDdLTWbo5zI8h9Mp-0Pxd2-CnObUv4ISW5rxASVSk4Z92anjsGVqFUeCJ14wf1iuUVnw4Su1VT15rqDcun1LGbMi2g=w2400)
Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
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So, should I get some mid Tiagos or some S11 Hollows?
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Just curious more than anything.
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
Yeah that is what I was thinking as I started typing...
Funny though cause it looks too small, but most likely is just right.
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Here's a shot with the Indy IKP and a top sleeved washer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kvcj7lxk7CEVAnnFWRUGeDnJXQEi5k5ZlHliL9vc5Fx0WhERMg-XUzaMurAtOyci0bhkjSgOzAKFCI7m8eyX0hnE4PDdlnlUiYeA6Xki7I6dR2l7ncb927890tXGyMYdC3OIggV8RZk=w2400)
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
Yeah that is what I was thinking as I started typing...
Funny though cause it looks too small, but most likely is just right.
It's that machined, flat, sleeved washer, from muir skate (longboards) and it fits perfectly.
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
Yeah that is what I was thinking as I started typing...
Funny though cause it looks too small, but most likely is just right.
It's that machined, flat, sleeved washer, from muir skate (longboards) and it fits perfectly.
That's the one!
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
Yeah that is what I was thinking as I started typing...
Funny though cause it looks too small, but most likely is just right.
It's that machined, flat, sleeved washer, from muir skate (longboards) and it fits perfectly.
That's the one!
It's that machined, flat, sleeved washer, from muir skate (longboards) and it fits perfectly.
Here's a shot of the stock Indy IKP with both bottom and top sleeved washers:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SyarZBqfCwe-zbHtawctwKOJkozlWr55Hld6fzTb-FheWsyRl_uBoNs5PSa6exDGY__UpJmivfL2bMQm_9z30Si4AS8AEvc-JVK65kEwkvIFEO45QKNUBVsIWYNi5WcrFbaFrIF8z6s=w2400)
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Here's a shot with the Indy IKP and a top sleeved washer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kvcj7lxk7CEVAnnFWRUGeDnJXQEi5k5ZlHliL9vc5Fx0WhERMg-XUzaMurAtOyci0bhkjSgOzAKFCI7m8eyX0hnE4PDdlnlUiYeA6Xki7I6dR2l7ncb927890tXGyMYdC3OIggV8RZk=w2400)
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
Yeah that is what I was thinking as I started typing...
Funny though cause it looks too small, but most likely is just right.
It's that machined, flat, sleeved washer, from muir skate (longboards) and it fits perfectly.
I think you told me this before, but which Muir washer fits snuggly under the Indy bushing that way?
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Here's a shot with the Indy IKP and a top sleeved washer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kvcj7lxk7CEVAnnFWRUGeDnJXQEi5k5ZlHliL9vc5Fx0WhERMg-XUzaMurAtOyci0bhkjSgOzAKFCI7m8eyX0hnE4PDdlnlUiYeA6Xki7I6dR2l7ncb927890tXGyMYdC3OIggV8RZk=w2400)
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
Yeah that is what I was thinking as I started typing...
Funny though cause it looks too small, but most likely is just right.
It's that machined, flat, sleeved washer, from muir skate (longboards) and it fits perfectly.
I think you told me this before, but which Muir washer fits snuggly under the Indy bushing that way?
Bottom
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/9681/array-machined-barrel-sleeved-washers
Top
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/54061/array-machined-cone-sleeved-washers
Set:
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/54091/array-machined-barrel-sleeved-washer-cone-sleeved-washer-combo-pack-four-pack
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So, should I get some mid Tiagos or some S11 Hollows?
What's more important to you? Height or weight?
Both? Get forged ti or hollow
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The clearance difference between the stock Indy IKP and the original Krux down low is crazy. I'd imagine the Kreper pin offers the same amount of clearance as the Krux?
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So, should I get some mid Tiagos or some S11 Hollows?
What's more important to you? Height or weight?
Both? Get forged ti or hollow
If I’m not mistaken the hollows are a little taller at 53.5mm, but will be lighter. I have a set of Venture OG Highs now that are the same height. I’m still adjusting (I’ve usually ridden 52 or lower) but I do dig not having wheel bite.
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The clearance difference between the stock Indy IKP and the original Krux down low is crazy. I'd imagine the Kreper pin offers the same amount of clearance as the Krux?
I’ve been skating some very well worn Ace trucks with the Krux kingpin, and the kingpin itself has barely a scratch on it. When these are too worn to skate, I imagine it will be easily removed and swapped on to the new trucks.
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The clearance difference between the stock Indy IKP and the original Krux down low is crazy. I'd imagine the Kreper pin offers the same amount of clearance as the Krux?
Yup. Indy fucked up with the mid/IKP implementation....next to no improvements in terms of grind clearance compared to stock regular kingpins so much so that they added material to the hanger to give it more clearance but also adding 10g in overall weight....
They should have ripped the kreper, GK, gullwing style...or shipped them with krux pins...has to be a cost to design issue.
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Maybe a dumb question, but is axle slip even a thing anymore?
I haven't seen any in a long time, even when people think they have it, when checking it was more commonly the bearing moving in the wheel.
Not to say that it is not happening, but I think the only issue I have seen is the breaking hanger pivot nub more than anything else in the last five or more years.
One of my stage 11 highs has some very bad axle slip going on. Tapping it with a hammer sorted it, though it's immediately started drifting away again.
They're very well used, so no hard feelings and I've ordered another pair.
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Here's a shot with the Indy IKP and a top sleeved washer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kvcj7lxk7CEVAnnFWRUGeDnJXQEi5k5ZlHliL9vc5Fx0WhERMg-XUzaMurAtOyci0bhkjSgOzAKFCI7m8eyX0hnE4PDdlnlUiYeA6Xki7I6dR2l7ncb927890tXGyMYdC3OIggV8RZk=w2400)
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
Yeah that is what I was thinking as I started typing...
Funny though cause it looks too small, but most likely is just right.
It's that machined, flat, sleeved washer, from muir skate (longboards) and it fits perfectly.
I think you told me this before, but which Muir washer fits snuggly under the Indy bushing that way?
Bottom
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/9681/array-machined-barrel-sleeved-washers
Top
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/54061/array-machined-cone-sleeved-washers
Set:
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/54091/array-machined-barrel-sleeved-washer-cone-sleeved-washer-combo-pack-four-pack
What’s the advantage of these washers vs stock?
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Krux pins net so much more clearance...(Regular hollow hangers+stock tops before I sand them down+IKP plates).
Is it just me or does the bottom bushing look too big for the bottom washer?
Or is it not the usual bottom washer and one of those super fancy ones with the core or something?
Here's a shot with the Indy IKP and a top sleeved washer:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kvcj7lxk7CEVAnnFWRUGeDnJXQEi5k5ZlHliL9vc5Fx0WhERMg-XUzaMurAtOyci0bhkjSgOzAKFCI7m8eyX0hnE4PDdlnlUiYeA6Xki7I6dR2l7ncb927890tXGyMYdC3OIggV8RZk=w2400)
Just curious more than anything.
I think that's one of those flat machined ones Xen has posted about before.
Yeah that is what I was thinking as I started typing...
Funny though cause it looks too small, but most likely is just right.
It's that machined, flat, sleeved washer, from muir skate (longboards) and it fits perfectly.
I think you told me this before, but which Muir washer fits snuggly under the Indy bushing that way?
Bottom
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/9681/array-machined-barrel-sleeved-washers
Top
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/54061/array-machined-cone-sleeved-washers
Set:
https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/54091/array-machined-barrel-sleeved-washer-cone-sleeved-washer-combo-pack-four-pack
What’s the advantage of these washers vs stock?
From the links provided above:
DESCRIPTION
The Array washers are some of the raddest innovations we've seen come from of the longboarding industry as of late. These 303 machined stainless steel washers that sit on the barrel bushings of your choice and stays right where it's meant to be while keeping the bushing engaged and running at it's full, responsive potential. "Normal" flat and cupped washers move back and forth against the kingpin when you're turning hard, pumping and putting force on the trucks. Over time this can cause problems (such as broken kingpins) if you're not careful. Array machined washer sit snug against the kingpin and ensures the truck moves as one system, not a bunch of pieces of metal and urethane moving against one another.
TL;DR
They act like Bones Bushings, also flat washers allow for more bushing deformity .
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These trucks are cool but they need some proper bushings for the 52mm height but stage 11esque geo, also I’m sure since Indy are made in China they made some deal with royal cause as the truck master I have a set of the royal with the inverted pin and they suspiciously look very very similar to the Indy ones
Almost exactly the same pins
And both have the same baseplate design with the nut locked in place
Idk guys
Truck gate all over again
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I know this has already been explored and maybe tested to death, but I had a play with some IKP baseplates, more just for show and tell, but this is what I did yesterday, when they got here.
https://www.ocdskateshop.com.au/products/independent-ikp-baseplate-set
Independent Inverted Kingpin Baseplate set, or IKP for short
OCD Skateshop had 20% off trucks and wheels including these new Indy baseplate sets, so I got some as people had been asking about them. I also got some new Indy trucks and after they arrived today, I did a little swap and measure of the normal standard 149 trucks with the inverted kingpin baseplates, as per pictures provided, along with my personal preference set aside for this experiment (as I prefer normal standard kingpin assemblies to IKP versions).
The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall. They sit a few mm below the standard kingpin at that height, but apart from that they are almost the same in terms of the baseplates, with maybe a slightly different angle of the kingpin to the normal ones, but it was minimal. The IKP has a special nut that sits inside the baseplate, so there is no way you will be taking these out to change them over, but you can always use any other brand kingpin to put into them.
The other interesting thing was to see how much clearance there was on the IKP set compared to standards, as per the last pic showing the angle of them when sitting on the hanger and resting on the kingpin, with the IKP version definitely having a lower profile.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQItVoZAUsb/
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https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/genuine-parts-inverted-kingpin-baseplate-set-independent?utm_campaign=Independent
Plates in stock at NHS
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
It won't, is made for rethreading axles which are not the same size as kingpins (right?)
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure a KINGPIN rethreader will work on kingpins.
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
My bad, I thought the ace tool only had an axle rethreaded.
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
Ace AF1 trucks come with the little red axle rethreader.
Ace aftermarket kit comes with the red (axle) and blue (kingpin) rethreaders on a carabiner, as well as the same two rethreaders built in to a standard shaped skate tool.
The thing is though, they might not be strong enough to do more than just rethread some slightly beat up thread ends, so an industrial strength rethreader die might be needed to do fresh threads / more on an inverted kingpin.
I think the best solution as others have done is get an inverted kingpin with longer thread if that doesn't go down far enough.
Might cost more, but at least it will cost less than blowing out a kingpin and a rethreader.
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
Ace AF1 trucks come with the little red axle rethreader.
Ace aftermarket kit comes with the red (axle) and blue (kingpin) rethreaders on a carabiner, as well as the same two rethreaders built in to a standard shaped skate tool.
The thing is though, they might not be strong enough to do more than just rethread some slightly beat up thread ends, so an industrial strength rethreader die might be needed to do fresh threads / more on an inverted kingpin.
I think the best solution as others have done is get an inverted kingpin with longer thread if that doesn't go down far enough.
Might cost more, but at least it will cost less than blowing out a kingpin and a rethreader.
I’m gonna get cheapy dies at harbor freight and see if that works. I don’t really want to trash my ace dies.
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
Or get low top bushings/shave down the tops.
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
Or get low top bushings/shave down the tops.
It is the opposite, as in same as I felt, so I need to get the kingpin down into the baseplate further than the stock Indy IKP will go, so cutting bushings down only loosen them up, not get the kingpin lower. If I used my lower bushings, the kingpin head would still sit up too high, only making the trucks even looser than needed.
Maybe you had said (or someone else) to use other brand IKP that have longer threads on them, which I have seen and would definitely work, maybe Krux down low or other brand.
The old generic / unknown brand inverted kingpin that I have floating around definitely gets things much lower into the baseplate without going too low, so about another 5 mm of thread on that kingpin would be perfect without it going too far in and digging into the wood of the deck.
Sorry not trying to be Mr know it all, just trying to explain.
:)
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The Kreper pins are threaded a lot further up if you don't mind the built in top washer.
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This is a Film kingpin, with twice as much thread
(https://offsetskatesupply.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Film-Inverted-Kingpin-Parts.jpg)
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A lower top busing will allow more thread into the plate, because it’s lower…yes, it will be looser.
Imagine not using a top bushing, you’d be able to screw it down all the way to the hanger and probably touch the deck with the pin. No, this is not ideal.
I’m riding krux pins in my Indy mid plates (and in tensor ATGs), krux pins, being ‘downlows’ are short pins….that’s why they are lows and have less threading.
I shaved down my stock Indy top bushings.
I can get more clearance with lower tops.
If I wanted more threads into the nut & tighter trucks I’d ride harder bushings and shave down the hardest top bushings I could find to compensate.
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Okay so I’m sure this has been asked already a few times sorry guys,
But ive ground down to axel on my mids hangar and I want to replace it with another Indy hangar. Will the throwing the hollow hangar on the mid base plate fuck up the geometry at all?
Or should I get another mid hangar? Which hangar should I get boys?
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Okay so I’m sure this has been asked already a few times sorry guys,
But ive ground down to axel on my mids hangar and I want to replace it with another Indy hangar. Will the throwing the hollow hangar on the mid base plate fuck up the geometry at all?
Or should I get another mid hangar? Which hangar should I get boys?
I haven't skated mids, but I have heard they turn the same as standards, and I have a lot of those, along with hollow forged, ti, etc.
They still work and turn the same way standard trucks do with standard hangers, the only difference being the height of the hanger, so you will be a few more mm off the ground.
If you have any old hangers, just put them on and feel them out to check first, otherwise you would need to buy more trucks anyway.
Funny that I used to have way too many hangers sitting around from all the broken Indy baseplates, but now it seems to be the other way round, since things changed from Stage 9 issues to solid baseplates on 10 or 11s. People go through hangers, often skating them til they break, then leaving spare baseplates.
Others have even asked if anywhere sells just hangers, but as yet, that would be a no. It would be rad if they did sell them on their own though.
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Okay so I’m sure this has been asked already a few times sorry guys,
But ive ground down to axel on my mids hangar and I want to replace it with another Indy hangar. Will the throwing the hollow hangar on the mid base plate fuck up the geometry at all?
Or should I get another mid hangar? Which hangar should I get boys?
I haven't skated mids, but I have heard they turn the same as standards, and I have a lot of those, along with hollow forged, ti, etc.
They still work and turn the same way standard trucks do with standard hangers, the only difference being the height of the hanger, so you will be a few more mm off the ground.
If you have any old hangers, just put them on and feel them out to check first, otherwise you would need to buy more trucks anyway.
Funny that I used to have way too many hangers sitting around from all the broken Indy baseplates, but now it seems to be the other way round, since things changed from Stage 9 issues to solid baseplates on 10 or 11s. People go through hangers, often skating them til they break, then leaving spare baseplates.
Others have even asked if anywhere sells just hangers, but as yet, that would be a no. It would be rad if they did sell them on their own though.
215s and Mids are not listed as Stage XI geo, but 'classic' Indy Geo, whatever that means...to me it means, the geo is different somehow but not enough to warrant a new stage.
The only thing different is the mid hanger (supposedly) which is why you can pick up the new plates and slap your old hollow/ti hangers on them.
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You convinced me @Xen
My login at Muirskate wasn't working and they were out of the combo packs so I went direct to Array's online store
https://array-products.com/
It's my father's day gift to myself.
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Okay so I’m sure this has been asked already a few times sorry guys,
But ive ground down to axel on my mids hangar and I want to replace it with another Indy hangar. Will the throwing the hollow hangar on the mid base plate fuck up the geometry at all?
Or should I get another mid hangar? Which hangar should I get boys?
I haven't skated mids, but I have heard they turn the same as standards, and I have a lot of those, along with hollow forged, ti, etc.
They still work and turn the same way standard trucks do with standard hangers, the only difference being the height of the hanger, so you will be a few more mm off the ground.
If you have any old hangers, just put them on and feel them out to check first, otherwise you would need to buy more trucks anyway.
Funny that I used to have way too many hangers sitting around from all the broken Indy baseplates, but now it seems to be the other way round, since things changed from Stage 9 issues to solid baseplates on 10 or 11s. People go through hangers, often skating them til they break, then leaving spare baseplates.
Others have even asked if anywhere sells just hangers, but as yet, that would be a no. It would be rad if they did sell them on their own though.
215s and Mids are not listed as Stage XI geo, but 'classic' Indy Geo, whatever that means...to me it means, the geo is different somehow but not enough to warrant a new stage.
The only thing different is the mid hanger (supposedly) which is why you can pick up the new plates and slap your old hollow/ti hangers on them.
It is a curious one - classic being the word.
Didn't they redo the previous two stages (9 and 10) now Stage 11 to be more like the old (classic??) turn now?
I know I get back on older Indy trucks and they definitely don't quite do what the Stage 11s do for how I am used to them, but they are not the old old versions, just the stage 5 and up, the one exception being the wider trucks which have a better turn than the more narrow trucks on boards I have - but I don't have any 215s to compare them to either.
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215s and 109s have Stage 3 or 4 geometry, I think I read somewhere. I have some Stage 11 109s and Stage 3 131s and the turn is comparable.
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If anyone is wanted just the Hex button style inverted kingpins, skate warehouse and several other retailers are now selling them solo. Just be aware that the thread on them is very shallow so they’re not for tight trucks or big boys.
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Krux_DLK_K5_Kingpin_Set/descpage-KXDLK5KP.html
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If anyone is wanted just the Hex button style inverted kingpins, skate warehouse and several other retailers are now selling them solo. Just be aware that the thread on them is very shallow so they’re not for tight trucks or big boys.
https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Krux_DLK_K5_Kingpin_Set/descpage-KXDLK5KP.html
Do they look the same as the Indy kingpins?
I have only seen pics and they really do look very similar, but thought someone had said they are shorter.
At least that is another cheap and easily accessible option if the Indy kingpin blows out or has issues.
(https://img.skatewarehouse.com/watermark/rs.php?path=KXDLK5KP-2.jpg)
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Based on pics alone they look the same to me.
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Based on pics alone they look the same to me.
That's what I was thinking, but I can never really tell with just pictures to go by.
:)
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Got kicked down a set of mid 159’s but they altered their baseplates to the 6 holes.
I like them so far and haven’t had any problems with them, when someone cannibalizes a set of trucks a set of Indy’s but different combinations does it really affect the turning radius?(https://i.ibb.co/TTRj0tG/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TTRj0tG)
L mid 159’s R standard stage 11’s 149’s
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So i finally got around to trying these out. I traded my backup pair of Ace 44 to a pal for a set of 144 mindys and I have to say that they exceeded my expectations but only because they were extremely low to begin with and only after I tweaked them a bit.
They're noisy as hell, even after lubricating the pivot cups, bushing seats, and washers. It silences them temporarily but the squeak comes back after a little.
They're heavy on the scale but I didn't really notice it when skating them. This may have been because I tried them out on a fairly steep deck (at least by my standards), the Scumco KT "dukes" 8.25. The fact its PS stix wood which has a very light and snappy pop feel probably helped nullify the weight as well. They really didn't feel significantly heavier than the trucks I previously had on the deck (Film 5.5 hollow) despite being like 50g heavier.
Turn was acceptable but not great. They don't turn as well as traditional kingpin indys and I did run into wheelbite issues with anything over 53mm. I ended up switching over to 94a aftermarket indy bushings which helped but didn't totally eliminate the problem. I don't have a ton of experience with inverted kingpins so I'm not sure if the worse turn is normal or not but I definitely noticed it with the mindys.
Grind felt a little weird too, a bit sticky. Adding a little bit of wax to the hanger helped but like the squeak issue its a temporary fix and I had to reapply it after a half dozen or so slappies.
Overall they're kind of a wet fart. I would say that unless you're some kind of smith/feeble specialist there's really no reason to get these over hollows. Forged plate indys are almost the same height but are lighter and turn better.
I ended up just swapping the baseplates with a set of 139 forged hollows and I like them much better that way. I wish they had just started making the lows again, maybe with a 144 option.
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Got kicked down a set of mid 159’s but they altered their baseplates to the 6 holes.
I like them so far and haven’t had any problems with them, when someone cannibalizes a set of trucks a set of Indy’s but different combinations does it really affect the turning radius?
L mid 159’s R standard stage 11’s 149’s
I have mixed and matched - swapped over hangers / baseplates to check and they all still work the same way, just a little different as I often go half by eye as to the threads showing on the kingpin, which you cannot do on inverted kingpins, but mid hangers will also work on standard baseplates.
That setup reminds me of older stage Indy trucks with zero kingpin clearance as it sits right on the hanger when new, so I am curious - how is the kingpin clearance on those?
A post here from another guy who put inverted baseplates on with normal hangers (so the opposite of what you have) if you are interested:
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=97297.msg3591144#msg3591144
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(https://i.imgur.com/NQGSokol.jpg)
i swapped the hangers/baseplates on a set of 144 mids and 144 forged hollows.
the mid hanger on the forged baseplate brought them down to 50-ish mm
kingpin clearance was horrible. swapped them back.
the 144 forged hollows are on my main setup. the 144 mids are on my symmetrical egg
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall.
Does anyone know What can I use to thread the kingpin a little further so I can actually tighten these things? i have that ace kingpin rethreader? Would that work?
Or get low top bushings/shave down the tops.
It is the opposite, as in same as I felt, so I need to get the kingpin down into the baseplate further than the stock Indy IKP will go, so cutting bushings down only loosen them up, not get the kingpin lower. If I used my lower bushings, the kingpin head would still sit up too high, only making the trucks even looser than needed.
Maybe you had said (or someone else) to use other brand IKP that have longer threads on them, which I have seen and would definitely work, maybe Krux down low or other brand.
The old generic / unknown brand inverted kingpin that I have floating around definitely gets things much lower into the baseplate without going too low, so about another 5 mm of thread on that kingpin would be perfect without it going too far in and digging into the wood of the deck.
Sorry not trying to be Mr know it all, just trying to explain.
:)
I would also recommend getting harder bushings. The black Indy aftermarket bushings would get them a little tighter than stock
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Hey!
I apologize if this has been asked before, Ive read the last 5 pages of the thread, but I get a little confused with all the different truck heights aspects, and mix and matching different parts – here goes.
I ride 144 hollows – regular height – no the mids. Ive been grinding down my baseplates from noseslides – and my hangers are still in fairly decent shape.
Will my truck geometry dramatically change if I swap out a grinded out baseplate from the 144 ‘regulars’ with a mid base pate?
The new truck would have a ‘mid’ baseplate (with the inverted kingpin) and a regular 144 hanger. Im I asking for trouble with this?
Swapping baseplates out is allott cheaper (and I dontfeel like Im wasting truck hangers). @Mbrmison88 had a similar question, but hes swapping out mid hangers for regular hangers…
Thanks for your comments.
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Hey!
I apologize if this has been asked before, Ive read the last 5 pages of the thread, but I get a little confused with all the different truck heights aspects, and mix and matching different parts – here goes.
I ride 144 hollows – regular height – not the mids. Ive been grinding down my baseplates from noseslides – and my hangers are still in fairly decent shape.
Will my truck geometry dramatically change if I swap out a grinded out baseplate from the 144 ‘regulars’ with the Inveted Kingpin Baseplate Set - Im under the ipression these baseplates are mid's?
The new truck would have a ‘mid’ baseplate (with the inverted kingpin - I think its a mid, not really sure) and a regular 144 hanger. Im I asking for trouble with this?
Swapping baseplates out is allott cheaper (and I dontfeel like Im wasting truck hangers). @Mbrmison88 had a similar question, but hes swapping out mid hangers for regular hangers…
Thanks for your comments.
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Hey!
I apologize if this has been asked before, Ive read the last 5 pages of the thread, but I get a little confused with all the different truck heights aspects, and mix and matching different parts – here goes.
I ride 144 hollows – regular height – no the mids. Ive been grinding down my baseplates from noseslides – and my hangers are still in fairly decent shape.
Will my truck geometry dramatically change if I swap out a grinded out baseplate from the 144 ‘regulars’ with a mid base pate?
The new truck would have a ‘mid’ baseplate (with the inverted kingpin) and a regular 144 hanger. Im I asking for trouble with this?
Swapping baseplates out is allott cheaper (and I dontfeel like Im wasting truck hangers). @Mbrmison88 had a similar question, but hes swapping out mid hangers for regular hangers…
Thanks for your comments.
If your current 144s are cast hollows, no it will not. The difference between the mids and standards is in the hangar and not the plates. But if your 144s have forged plates, they will be 1.5mm higher on the new plates.
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Thanks for the help FrozenIndustries!!
Ill buy a set this weekend. Ill set em up and compare em to the new 144 hollows I bought last week. Ill try to report back.
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Update!
Bought the lower kingpin Indy baseplates, set em up with my old 144 hollow hangers and they seem to be about 1 - 1.5 mm higher than my regular 144 hollows. Ill attribute that to the baseplate, as the hollows are Forged, and im assuming the baseplates I bought were cast. I used one of those measuring calipers - didnt take pics, sorry.
minimal difference. Im quite content! I bought a set so ill have 2 trucks that are a hair higher. Theyll match and thats all that matters.
Thanks for your help!
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Update!
Bought the lower kingpin Indy baseplates, set em up with my old 144 hollow hangers and they seem to be about 1 - 1.5 mm higher than my regular 144 hollows. Ill attribute that to the baseplate, as the hollows are Forged, and im assuming the baseplates I bought were cast. I used one of those measuring calipers - didnt take pics, sorry.
minimal difference. Im quite content! I bought a set so ill have 2 trucks that are a hair higher. Theyll match and thats all that matters.
Thanks for your help!
Yes, those plates are cast. The mid hangers were beefed up to provide more clearance using the IKP; using the IKP plates on normal hangers nets almost no improvement on grind clearance. Worst design ever for an IKP.
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I saw hollow mid on Reynolds’ IG but can’t find a record of them anywhere else does anyone know when they are dropping?
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I saw hollow mid on Reynolds’ IG but can’t find a record of them anywhere else does anyone know when they are dropping?
They were up but listed as "sold out" on the Canadian NHS site. If they drop anything like the IKP plates they'll be available in the next month or so.
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Wait until after the Labor Day sales, bet we seem start popping up.
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For those who partake, the Reynolds mid hollows are in at SoCal.
https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-144mm-Andrew-Reynolds-Hollow-Pro-Mid-Skateboard-Trucks-Silver.html (https://socalskateshop.com/Independent-144mm-Andrew-Reynolds-Hollow-Pro-Mid-Skateboard-Trucks-Silver.html)
I love how they look and am tempted to give them another shot. Last time I tried them I was in the throes of Ace mania, but as of late I have been switching it up between Aces and Indy standard.
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x-post from truck setups. Maybe not gospel but what I can gather from my snooping. I have a set coming Thursday and will hopefully get to run them on Friday.
For people asking about the Indy Reynolds mid hollows weight, from what I've seen they are:
129=368g
139=376g
144=386g
149=392g
159=395g
vs classics:
129=367g
139=376g
144=387g
149=394g
159=402g
So they do seem to put the mids back at classic weight or slightly under.
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x-post from truck setups. Maybe not gospel but what I can gather from my snooping. I have a set coming Thursday and will hopefully get to run them on Friday.
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For people asking about the Indy Reynolds mid hollows weight, from what I've seen they are:
129=368g
139=376g
144=386g
149=392g
159=395g
vs classics:
129=367g
139=376g
144=387g
149=394g
159=402g
So they do seem to put the mids back at classic weight or slightly under.
So you are saving around a couple grams (if that) total, why even bother at that point? If it's a lower truck you want, just get Forged Hollows or ti (or ACE or Thunder), forged are close enough @ 53.5mm and the weight savings is significantly better. Unless you totally hate forged plates for some reason (feel).
Having fuxed with the inverted pins across lots of trucks, it's not worth it (with the current designs).
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x-post from truck setups. Maybe not gospel but what I can gather from my snooping. I have a set coming Thursday and will hopefully get to run them on Friday.
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For people asking about the Indy Reynolds mid hollows weight, from what I've seen they are:
129=368g
139=376g
144=386g
149=392g
159=395g
vs classics:
129=367g
139=376g
144=387g
149=394g
159=402g
So they do seem to put the mids back at classic weight or slightly under.
So you are saving around a couple grams (if that) total, why even bother at that point? If it's a lower truck you want, just get Forged Hollows or ti (or ACE or Thunder), forged are close enough @ 53.5mm and the weight savings is significantly better. Unless you totally hate forged plates for some reason (feel).
Having fuxed with the inverted pins across lots of trucks, it's not worth it (with the current designs).
I want a lower Indy and forged plates are gross.
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x-post from truck setups. Maybe not gospel but what I can gather from my snooping. I have a set coming Thursday and will hopefully get to run them on Friday.
Expand Quote
For people asking about the Indy Reynolds mid hollows weight, from what I've seen they are:
129=368g
139=376g
144=386g
149=392g
159=395g
vs classics:
129=367g
139=376g
144=387g
149=394g
159=402g
So they do seem to put the mids back at classic weight or slightly under.
So you are saving around a couple grams (if that) total, why even bother at that point? If it's a lower truck you want, just get Forged Hollows or ti (or ACE or Thunder), forged are close enough @ 53.5mm and the weight savings is significantly better. Unless you totally hate forged plates for some reason (feel).
Having fuxed with the inverted pins across lots of trucks, it's not worth it (with the current designs).
I want a lower Indy and forged plates are gross.
What's gross about them? The tinny feel?
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Yeah, the feeling is weird and it is also super annoying that forged plates always push the WB out. I get that this is done to preserve the pop feel, but keeping the WB tight is more important to me than the weight savings. That being said, if they can save a few grams with a hollow axle, why not?
I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
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Yeah, the feeling is weird and it is also super annoying that forged plates always push the WB out. I get that this is done to preserve the pop feel, but keeping the WB tight is more important to me than the weight savings. That being said, if they can save a few grams with a hollow axle, why not?
I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
I'm all for a lower indy, that's why I ride forged, but not sure what the real gain is for the hollows, a couple of grams isn't making a bit of difference, especially since the mids are actually heavier than same size standards. Now when they do the Ti axle, I'll bite.
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I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
Mini Logo.
(ducks and runs....)
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I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
Mini Logo.
(ducks and runs....)
Hahaha, I would if I could deal with how they look. Call me shallow, but...
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I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
Mini Logo.
(ducks and runs....)
Theeve TiKing or TiaX (52mm)
*come at me bro*
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I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
Mini Logo.
(ducks and runs....)
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I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
Mini Logo.
(ducks and runs....)
Theeve TiKing or TiaX (52mm)
*come at me bro*
Both fit the bill TBH.
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I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
Mini Logo.
(ducks and runs....)
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I get where you're coming from for sure, but a lower cast truck that turns great out of the box (and isn't plagued by QC issues) definitely has a place in the market.
Mini Logo.
(ducks and runs....)
Theeve TiKing or TiaX (52mm)
*come at me bro*
Both fit the bill TBH.
...that you can actually walk into a skate shop and buy. I live in a major city and have never seen Theeves in the wild, let alone in a skate shop. Same with Mini Logo.
Full disclosure: I would try Theeve if shops had them and their website didn't make it look like they went out of business in 2003.
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Here is my early review after 5 sessions on the 144 Hollow Mids. I usually ride BBS 8.25 with a 14.25 WB, but I’ve ridden these on an 8.38 Killing Floor with a 14.38 and now have them on an 8.5 Anti Hero with 14.25. I generally don’t like super steep tails or really long kicks. I’m riding them with 52 Classics.
Good:
- Pinch is excellent. I’d rank it on par with Thunder and Venture
- Grind is solid. The extra material on the barrel makes sense given where you pinch.
- Turn is a nice surfy Indy turn but since they’re lower they feel more stable to me overall.
- I really like the quicker pop feel. I never liked standard Indy and always rode the Forged Hollows. These have a better pop for me as it’s faster but the extra weight seems to suck the board up more
- They feel more stable to me than Forged Hollows
- I don’t have any more wheelbite than normal. My trucks are usually medium loose
The bad:
- For me there isn’t really anything. The stock black bushings and kingpin were ugly so I swapped for aftermarket orange bushings and stripped the kingpin color but that’s nitpicking
- If you don’t like loose trucks they feel wayyyy looser stock. I ride stock tightness on normal trucks but I had to crank these 2 turns.
- The kingpin is fine for me, but if you need to replace something it’s not super easy to mark the kingpin position to put things back on
I could say if you need super light trucks that might be a negative but I just don’t really like when things are too light.
Overall I would try them if:
- You like the height of Thunders but not the baseplate slide issue and want something less twitchy.
- You like a quicker pop feel but don’t need to get it from lighter trucks or a short wheelbase.
- You want a bit better pinch from an Indy
I’m pretty happy with them.
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Do the Mids have different geometry than a standard Hollow 144? I don’t understand how there could be more pinch without the truck have a substantially different overall design.
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Do the Mids have different geometry than a standard Hollow 144? I don’t understand how there could be more pinch without the truck have a substantially different overall design.
Mids are 52mm high and hollows are 53.5mm - wheel closer to the deck = pinch
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Also Forged Hollow have a longer effective WB, so the arc is longer to get wheel to deck.
Love to be negative rep'd for sharing an opinion.
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Agree that the pinch on the mids is killer, and coupled with the meaty Indy hanger it makes an amazing slappy truck. I went and got 144s but should have gotten either 149s or 159s. Can't justify new trucks ATM but will likely get them again if they keep making them.
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Do the Mids have different geometry than a standard Hollow 144? I don’t understand how there could be more pinch without the truck have a substantially different overall design.
Ahh, gotcha. I didn’t realize that Indy made anything so low.
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Anyone who ditched the kingpin that comes with these and used one with longer threading, like a Kreper, etc. Did you have issues with the kingpin coming loose on its own and having to retighten every so often? Or does it stay secure?
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Anyone who ditched the kingpin that comes with these and used one with longer threading, like a Kreper, etc. Did you have issues with the kingpin coming loose on its own and having to retighten every so often? Or does it stay secure?
My kreper pins worked just as well as the stock ones, maybe a little more secure even, however both loosened up over time.
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Interesting, I wonder why this happens even with that shaft nut added for security?
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Interesting, I wonder why this happens even with that shaft nut added for security?
Don't get me wrong, they don't widen the hole or jiggle around, they just unscrew themselves and loosen up ever so slowly to where at the end of the session, my bolt has rotated about 1/4. I understand smiths/feebles turning the back one maybe, but this was the front truck.
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Interesting, maybe it's why inverted kingpins never took off. Although it's a minor inconvenience, that issue doesn't happen with a normal kingpin.
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Interesting, maybe it's why inverted kingpins never took off. Although it's a minor inconvenience, that issue doesn't happen with a normal kingpin.
Exactly what I was thinking, doesn't matter how much you vibrate a normal kingpin, the vibrations don't transfer all the way through the bushings and turn the nut. With IKP, the constant turning seems to be enough to do it, I only skate smooth ground and don't take impact, so there's really no excuse.
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Mine haven’t loosened but a friend’s did and Indy sent him new plates and a bunch of swag in like 2 days or something.
It’s not the fault of the kingpin, it’s likely just something weird with nylock in the nut.
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Forged hollow mids just dropped:
https://nhsfunfactory.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks
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Forged hollow mids just dropped:
https://nhsfunfactory.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks
Truck Height (Millimeters) 50.5 <--Yeah, boi.
Truck Weight (Grams) 376 (only 16g lighter than the reg mids so not saving much).
Still gonna hold out for the ti mids.
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Forged hollow mids just dropped:
https://nhsfunfactory.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks
So tempting
Man that’s crazy, thunder territory on an Indy
Must resist…!
Truck Height (Millimeters) 50.5 <--Yeah, boi.
Truck Weight (Grams) 376 (only 16g lighter than the reg mids so not saving much).
Still gonna hold out for the ti mids.
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Got the 149 Reynolds hollows after looking everywhere for them. Just gotta for the rain to stop now
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284507422557?hash=item423df6bf5d:g:f7gAAOSw6fJhe0ey
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Forged hollow mids just dropped:
https://nhsfunfactory.com/products/forged-hollow-mid-independent-skateboard-trucks
Truck Height (Millimeters) 50.5 <--Yeah, boi.
Truck Weight (Grams) 376 (only 16g lighter than the reg mids so not saving much).
Still gonna hold out for the ti mids.
If they made these in a 169 I think I’d cave and buy them. Gonna hold out for the AF1 hollow lows instead
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Anyone have the forged hollow mids and could give a review? Been having lots of truck madness lately and these caught my attention.
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My mids loosened on their own a lot, and I didn't love they way they turned. Went back to standard Indys and I'm very happy.
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My mids loosened on their own a lot, and I didn't love they way they turned. Went back to standard Indys and I'm very happy.
I am similarly very disappointed with the turn on my mids. They are the only trucks I have ever had wheelbite in my life, even when tightened to a medium tightness (I normally like my trucks loose) on ~52mm wheels (I normally like to ride wheels 56mm and up). I was going to go back to ace but it's good to hear 149 standards might still be worth it too.
Also, the pop is complete trash on the mids, at least for me
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Anyone have the forged hollow mids and could give a review? Been having lots of truck madness lately and these caught my attention.
Just ordered some of the Reynolds today. Interested in giving them a poke.
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Anyone who ditched the kingpin that comes with these and used one with longer threading, like a Kreper, etc. Did you have issues with the kingpin coming loose on its own and having to retighten every so often? Or does it stay secure?
I've been using those titanium kingpin bolts we have. The threads bottom out at a medium tightness, so I threw some Loctite in there, and they haven't loosened up in a couple of months. No complaints. :)
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Anyone have the forged hollow mids and could give a review? Been having lots of truck madness lately and these caught my attention.
I liked them quite a bit. I didn’t have any turning issues whatsoever but they did come much looser. Just tightened them during the first session. My pop was good with them, the pinch was akin to my Thunders and I didn’t mind the weight at all. Didn’t have my kingpin loosen but was fairly paranoid about it. I don’t do many Grinds that catch the kingpin so no comment there.
Right now I’m on Forged Hollows cuz they were on a complete that I resurrected and loved. Id skate Mids again but am happy with what I’m on.
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Anyone have the forged hollow mids and could give a review? Been having lots of truck madness lately and these caught my attention.
@hobochimp Due to the madness I picked up the 149 forged mids; stock bottoms, 96a indy aftermarket tops (the stock bottoms are 2mm shorter than the aftermarkets) and 50mm spits.
They wheelbit like crazy with stock tightness/bushings. A bit less now with the harder top and riding them tighter than I normally would (I usually swap to hard bushings in lows). They feel surprisingly light for 149s (coming of the 149 royals).
While not broken in yet, they squeaked like a motherfucker out of the gate, when I swapped bushings I threw in some wax in the pivot cups which fixed it for now; it was REALLY bad tho, worse than any set of new trucks so far/ever.
I doubt there is anything new material-wise here, but the grind felt really good, but different than my TI indys (could be hollow vs ti); after riding the royals for a good stretch, even new I prefer the grind feel of these indys...this could also be a combination of DSM wood/Forged plates/101a vs the Royals cast/BBS wood/99a they are setup on: One feels crisp the other a bit deadish; I've always prefered the crisp feel.
Riding them on a steep kicked 8.28" / 14.18 WB Santa Cruz, will try them out on a mellow kick board next. It's fun being so low to the ground again but still able to turn.
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Anyone who ditched the kingpin that comes with these and used one with longer threading, like a Kreper, etc. Did you have issues with the kingpin coming loose on its own and having to retighten every so often? Or does it stay secure?
I've been using those titanium kingpin bolts we have. The threads bottom out at a medium tightness, so I threw some Loctite in there, and they haven't loosened up in a couple of months. No complaints. :)
Blue Loctite on my DIY inverted kingpins turned out to be an absolute must. Huge difference, from needing adjustment a few times a session to whatever amount of adjustment I previously considered normal.
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Anyone who ditched the kingpin that comes with these and used one with longer threading, like a Kreper, etc. Did you have issues with the kingpin coming loose on its own and having to retighten every so often? Or does it stay secure?
I've been using those titanium kingpin bolts we have. The threads bottom out at a medium tightness, so I threw some Loctite in there, and they haven't loosened up in a couple of months. No complaints. :)
Blue Loctite on my DIY inverted kingpins turned out to be an absolute must. Huge difference, from needing adjustment a few times a session to whatever amount of adjustment I previously considered normal.
The TI car bolts, has anyone been grinding them yet? Curious as to how they run on metal/concrete seeing as those ti Theeve were always a struggle to get moving on some materials.
The lower clearance is great but seems like it would hinder if you are catching on it due to the material.
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Anyone who ditched the kingpin that comes with these and used one with longer threading, like a Kreper, etc. Did you have issues with the kingpin coming loose on its own and having to retighten every so often? Or does it stay secure?
I've been using those titanium kingpin bolts we have. The threads bottom out at a medium tightness, so I threw some Loctite in there, and they haven't loosened up in a couple of months. No complaints. :)
Blue Loctite on my DIY inverted kingpins turned out to be an absolute must. Huge difference, from needing adjustment a few times a session to whatever amount of adjustment I previously considered normal.
The TI car bolts, has anyone been grinding them yet? Curious as to how they run on metal/concrete seeing as those ti Theeve were always a struggle to get moving on some materials.
The lower clearance is great but seems like it would hinder if you are catching on it due to the material.
That's a good point, something I hadn't considered. My trucks are Krux and Kreeper, so I don't know, but it's possible that those panheads are so low that it's only a theoretical problem.
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Some Teflon tape on the threads also works. Picking up my warrant plates tomorrow and then prob selling my Mid Hollows not because they were bad, but standards are working better for me.
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I can’t recall the thread, but someone modded the krux top washer from the old downlos so it properly fit inside the top bushing so it sat flush on top of the bushing; I’m going to throw mine in these Indy’s if I can find that thread/method. If anyone could point me that way it would be appreciated.
These inverted pins are heavier than standard with all that extra meat on top and the added material in the plates.
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Anyone have the forged hollow mids and could give a review? Been having lots of truck madness lately and these caught my attention.
@hobochimp Due to the madness I picked up the 149 forged mids; stock bottoms, 96a indy aftermarket tops (the stock bottoms are 2mm shorter than the aftermarkets) and 50mm spits.
They wheelbit like crazy with stock tightness/bushings. A bit less now with the harder top and riding them tighter than I normally would (I usually swap to hard bushings in lows). They feel surprisingly light for 149s (coming of the 149 royals).
While not broken in yet, they squeaked like a motherfucker out of the gate, when I swapped bushings I threw in some wax in the pivot cups which fixed it for now; it was REALLY bad tho, worse than any set of new trucks so far/ever.
I doubt there is anything new material-wise here, but the grind felt really good, but different than my TI indys (could be hollow vs ti); after riding the royals for a good stretch, even new I prefer the grind feel of these indys...this could also be a combination of DSM wood/Forged plates/101a vs the Royals cast/BBS wood/99a they are setup on: One feels crisp the other a bit deadish; I've always prefered the crisp feel.
Riding them on a steep kicked 8.28" / 14.18 WB Santa Cruz, will try them out on a mellow kick board next. It's fun being so low to the ground again but still able to turn.
This does not help my madness haha. Got hit by the truck madness bad recently. Two sets of trucks deep in about a month. Already wanting others. Never ridden trucks that low before but I’m curious what it will do for me. Trying to finally nail some flat ground tricks after spending most of my time skating in only bowls and pools
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Picking up my warrant plates tomorrow and then prob selling my Mid Hollows not because they were bad, but standards are working better for me.
Did you have a warranty issue with the Indy mids?
What happened?
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Anyone have the forged hollow mids and could give a review? Been having lots of truck madness lately and these caught my attention.
@hobochimp Due to the madness I picked up the 149 forged mids; stock bottoms, 96a indy aftermarket tops (the stock bottoms are 2mm shorter than the aftermarkets) and 50mm spits.
They wheelbit like crazy with stock tightness/bushings. A bit less now with the harder top and riding them tighter than I normally would (I usually swap to hard bushings in lows). They feel surprisingly light for 149s (coming of the 149 royals).
While not broken in yet, they squeaked like a motherfucker out of the gate, when I swapped bushings I threw in some wax in the pivot cups which fixed it for now; it was REALLY bad tho, worse than any set of new trucks so far/ever.
I doubt there is anything new material-wise here, but the grind felt really good, but different than my TI indys (could be hollow vs ti); after riding the royals for a good stretch, even new I prefer the grind feel of these indys...this could also be a combination of DSM wood/Forged plates/101a vs the Royals cast/BBS wood/99a they are setup on: One feels crisp the other a bit deadish; I've always prefered the crisp feel.
Riding them on a steep kicked 8.28" / 14.18 WB Santa Cruz, will try them out on a mellow kick board next. It's fun being so low to the ground again but still able to turn.
This does not help my madness haha. Got hit by the truck madness bad recently. Two sets of trucks deep in about a month. Already wanting others. Never ridden trucks that low before but I’m curious what it will do for me. Trying to finally nail some flat ground tricks after spending most of my time skating in only bowls and pools
Truth be told, the Royals and these forged mindys feel so similar to me that I could go either way; Royals are bit swervier/faster whereas the indys are smoother and slower but the grind on indy is better (to me...I don't know what it is with these tho, they feel harder than my TI, like venture hard yet smoother). I've been a fan of low trucks since the 49mm Thunders were all they offered in 149s...it should also keep me from buying the ACE lows ;).
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Picking up my warrant plates tomorrow and then prob selling my Mid Hollows not because they were bad, but standards are working better for me.
Did you have a warranty issue with the Indy mids?
What happened?
Bad nylock on the shaft nut so the kingpin kept coming so loose. It's such a common issue now that it is in their warranty dropdown.
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Picking up my warrant plates tomorrow and then prob selling my Mid Hollows not because they were bad, but standards are working better for me.
Did you have a warranty issue with the Indy mids?
What happened?
Bad nylock on the shaft nut so the kingpin kept coming so loose. It's such a common issue now that it is in their warranty dropdown.
Thanks!
I had given up trying to get anything sorted with those ones for a friend, but I think he ended up giving them away anyway to someone who was just stoked to have trucks that weren't down to the axle, so it is not a worry really.
Interesting they actually have that listed too.
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So far it’s happened to every single person I know that used them long term. It takes a while, but seems to always happen. First it started very slowly but by the end I would do 6-7 tricks and it would loosen a half turn but only on one truck.
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Nylock is supposed to be a one-use application so that makes sense, the problem won't go away unless you use loctite.
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Nylock is supposed to be a one-use application so that makes sense, the problem won't go away unless you use loctite.
Which pretty much sucks in this application since the area to apply is nested inside the baseplate so you have too mount your trucks, get them feeling good, take off the trucks, apply loctite, re-mount them and never ever adjust your trucks again :\
Lurpiv's solution is looking more and more like the right one in this instance.
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Nylock is supposed to be a one-use application so that makes sense, the problem won't go away unless you use loctite.
Which pretty much sucks in this application since the area to apply is nested inside the baseplate so you have too mount your trucks, get them feeling good, take off the trucks, apply loctite, re-mount them and never ever adjust your trucks again :\
Lurpiv's solution is looking more and more like the right one in this instance.
You just need to use the correct flavor of Loctite. Red Loctite is for permanent applications, green is the void filler, but blue Loctite (usually 242, 248, or their generic equivalents) is intended for screws which see semi-frequent adjustment. It will eventually dry out and chip away, at which time you will need to clean the threads of your screw and reapply, but IMO it's still a far better solution than using a tiny grub screw to dig into your kingpin.
If you want to make it even easier, skip the liquid stuff and splurge on the blue Loctite "glue stick" (https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=asc_df_B0053ZNMDE/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312141533517&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=942191715006558612&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033307&hvtargid=pla-524286196681&ref=&adgrpid=61941536837&th=1).
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Nylock is supposed to be a one-use application so that makes sense, the problem won't go away unless you use loctite.
Which pretty much sucks in this application since the area to apply is nested inside the baseplate so you have too mount your trucks, get them feeling good, take off the trucks, apply loctite, re-mount them and never ever adjust your trucks again :\
Lurpiv's solution is looking more and more like the right one in this instance.
You just need to use the correct flavor of Loctite. Red Loctite is for permanent applications, green is the void filler, but blue Loctite (usually 242, 248, or their generic equivalents) is intended for screws which see semi-frequent adjustment. It will eventually dry out and chip away, at which time you will need to clean the threads of your screw and reapply, but IMO it's still a far better solution than using a tiny grub screw to dig into your kingpin.
If you want to make it even easier, skip the liquid stuff and splurge on the blue Loctite "glue stick" (https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=asc_df_B0053ZNMDE/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312141533517&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=942191715006558612&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033307&hvtargid=pla-524286196681&ref=&adgrpid=61941536837&th=1).
Haha, my grub screw needed loctite to stay anyway.
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Yeah, this all just boils down to the fact that this is probably the reason why inverted kingpins didn't get adapted as the industry standard. Just gotta live with grinding on that kingpin and power through it.
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Nylock is supposed to be a one-use application so that makes sense, the problem won't go away unless you use loctite.
Which pretty much sucks in this application since the area to apply is nested inside the baseplate so you have too mount your trucks, get them feeling good, take off the trucks, apply loctite, re-mount them and never ever adjust your trucks again :\
Lurpiv's solution is looking more and more like the right one in this instance.
You just need to use the correct flavor of Loctite. Red Loctite is for permanent applications, green is the void filler, but blue Loctite (usually 242, 248, or their generic equivalents) is intended for screws which see semi-frequent adjustment. It will eventually dry out and chip away, at which time you will need to clean the threads of your screw and reapply, but IMO it's still a far better solution than using a tiny grub screw to dig into your kingpin.
If you want to make it even easier, skip the liquid stuff and splurge on the blue Loctite "glue stick" (https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=asc_df_B0053ZNMDE/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312141533517&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=942191715006558612&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033307&hvtargid=pla-524286196681&ref=&adgrpid=61941536837&th=1).
Haha, my grub screw needed loctite to stay anyway.
Yeah, this all just boils down to the fact that this is probably the reason why inverted kingpins didn't get adapted as the industry standard. Just gotta live with grinding on that kingpin and power through it.
More than likely, which makes you wonder why it's so on trend right now...Film, Indy/Krux, Royals, thunders (exploratory stage).
I get that the Kingpin/Bushing scenario is peak and altering it in any other way doesn't seem to be viable for 'our' sort of skating. Kingpin length, washer/bushing circumference would probably mess with everything.
Tho I don't see why a lower profile cap-style topper with a threaded sleeve that goes into the top bushing (like a sleeved washer) couldn't work to lower the profile with a shorter KP at worst it would mean a slighting larger hole through the bushings...couple that with lower tops (presumably harder to compensate) could work, tho it would probably have less room for adjustments.
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I've been riding 149 hollow-forged mids (50.5mm) off and on (more on than off) for a while now, running ACE classic bottoms and classic low tops, stock cups and they're delicious.
Nothing, not ACE low (with hards) or the new royals feel as good as these do....and I've all but written off thunders (too much wheelbite even when compared to lower trucks).
After fucking around with ti hangers and finding out the hangers are not interchangeable with the mid forged plate (pin doesn't sit center with non mid hangers) I started comparing both the forged mindy and regular forged ti, and prefer the height and turn of the forged mindy over all the rest.
Now the Royals are a hot second place (ACE low third), and I've praised them before and never had an issue with the grind before...but now, after skating the forged mids, the indys just grind better; on the same curbs, the royals (broken in) are stickier than the indys....even the ACE F1 lows grind a bit better than the royals.
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I could see me trying this truck too…
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I could see me trying this truck too…
It's weird, I've got a BOX of trucks and loads of indys of all sizes, 159/149/144. hollow/ti, cast, IKP, forged, etc., but I never ride them anymore (mainly because I'm not skating bowls these days) and I'm a weight whore bitch.
But since I started back on these and with the ACE bushing combo (which I always ran in indy since I found out how good it works), I can't get off them, not that I mind, everything else feels 'off' in comparison.
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The progression from thunders, to ventures, to ace lo’s, I’m caring about the weight less….ventures not grinding well on raw angle iron bugs me a bit and the ace lo’s are just too weird, makes me think this truck might be worth trying…
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The progression from thunders, to ventures, to ace lo’s, I’m caring about the weight less….ventures not grinding well on raw angle iron bugs me a bit and the ace lo’s are just too weird, makes me think this truck might be worth trying…
While I know it's heavier than say...the royals or aces...it doesn't matter/I don't seem to care; it doesn't make the board heavy and it is hollow/forged afterall so there is weight reduction.
They're just fun to skate.
I should note that I've been riding them exclusively with 14.3x wheelbases.
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The progression from thunders, to ventures, to ace lo’s, I’m caring about the weight less….ventures not grinding well on raw angle iron bugs me a bit and the ace lo’s are just too weird, makes me think this truck might be worth trying…
While I know it's heavier than say...the royals or aces...it doesn't matter/I don't seem to care; it doesn't make the board heavy and it is hollow/forged afterall so there is weight reduction.
They're just fun to skate.
I should note that I've been riding them exclusively with 14.3x wheelbases.
Weight on trucks doesn’t bother me nearly as much as it does on the wheels.
A lower indy sounds dope. Glad these are working for you.
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The progression from thunders, to ventures, to ace lo’s, I’m caring about the weight less….ventures not grinding well on raw angle iron bugs me a bit and the ace lo’s are just too weird, makes me think this truck might be worth trying…
While I know it's heavier than say...the royals or aces...it doesn't matter/I don't seem to care; it doesn't make the board heavy and it is hollow/forged afterall so there is weight reduction.
They're just fun to skate.
I should note that I've been riding them exclusively with 14.3x wheelbases.
Weight on trucks doesn’t bother me nearly as much as it does on the wheels.
A lower indy sounds dope. Glad these are working for you.
Sometimes I feel weight matters, other times, not so much (right kicks/WB/Fingers of Flat/etc). But the bigger the board, + bigger the wheels then add in some 149s (hollow or not) and it starts to add up. I can't imagine skating an 8.5x32+, 149 indy standards and 54mm conical/radial fulls..."BRING HER ABOUT!!"
Indys are heavy, we all know that, especially toe to toe with Thunders. Hell, a standard 149 royal is a couple grams heavier than a 149 inty ti ffs....
Currently on a 'light' feeling 8.5 (with a 14.3wb) with these indys and some ricta naturals (the mid shape); the ricta are lighter in hand than the 'other two' wheel co.'s mm for mm. (52 conical - 52 v5 - 52 mid); they just feel less dense (but are holding up fine).
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I'm still thinking about getting the forged hollow mids, the height sounds great (50,5mm right?).
I am mainly on 52mm Spits.
But I don't want a inverted kingpin. Anyone might know how much of a pain it is too hammer the kingpin out of the mindy baseplate? Putting in a shorter regular kingpin then.
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I'm still thinking about getting the forged hollow mids, the height sounds great (50,5mm right?).
I am mainly on 52mm Spits.
But I don't want a inverted kingpin. Anyone might know how much of a pain it is too hammer the kingpin out of the mindy baseplate? Putting in a shorter regular kingpin then.
Not possible because of the shaft nut. Also stupid because you can just use a normal forged baseplate. The height reduction is all in the hanger.
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I'm still thinking about getting the forged hollow mids, the height sounds great (50,5mm right?).
I am mainly on 52mm Spits.
But I don't want a inverted kingpin. Anyone might know how much of a pain it is too hammer the kingpin out of the mindy baseplate? Putting in a shorter regular kingpin then.
Not possible because of the shaft nut. Also stupid because you can just use a normal forged baseplate. The height reduction is all in the hanger.
Aaah, I see. Thanks for the explanation.
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Nylock is supposed to be a one-use application so that makes sense, the problem won't go away unless you use loctite.
Which pretty much sucks in this application since the area to apply is nested inside the baseplate so you have too mount your trucks, get them feeling good, take off the trucks, apply loctite, re-mount them and never ever adjust your trucks again :\
Lurpiv's solution is looking more and more like the right one in this instance.
.....Nah
I think pressed KP nuts and nut holes in the baseplate, in combination with KPs and baseplate holes machined to tighter tolerances could solve this. Would be a bitch to get the nut out, but you might not ever have to. Maybe pressed KP nut holes and super tightly thread the whole portion of the kp that enters the baseplate.
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I'm still thinking about getting the forged hollow mids, the height sounds great (50,5mm right?).
I am mainly on 52mm Spits.
But I don't want a inverted kingpin. Anyone might know how much of a pain it is too hammer the kingpin out of the mindy baseplate? Putting in a shorter regular kingpin then.
Not possible because of the shaft nut. Also stupid because you can just use a normal forged baseplate. The height reduction is all in the hanger.
Aaah, I see. Thanks for the explanation.
Yes, they are 50.5mm.
The mindy hanger sits differently on a regular forged plate.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3820284;topicseen#msg3820284
Visibly different. It’s skatable, but doesn’t feel as good to me compared to the forged stock indy with the IKP setup.
Note: Indy mids are marketed as using Independent’s ‘legendary geometry’ not as Stage XI; very possible they’re not meant to be cross compatible.
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Is it safe to say these trucks don’t wheelbite as bad as a thunder? Similar contact point to an ace low?
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When I did this same test with mids and some titaniums i noticed that the mids looked slightly off center on any baseplates. I think with the mid baseplate and inverted kingpin it is just harder to see.
I have titanium hangers on forged mid baseplates right now and it works well.
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I'm still thinking about getting the forged hollow mids, the height sounds great (50,5mm right?).
I am mainly on 52mm Spits.
But I don't want a inverted kingpin. Anyone might know how much of a pain it is too hammer the kingpin out of the mindy baseplate? Putting in a shorter regular kingpin then.
Not possible because of the shaft nut. Also stupid because you can just use a normal forged baseplate. The height reduction is all in the hanger.
Aaah, I see. Thanks for the explanation.
The mindy hanger sits differently on a regular forged plate.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3820284;topicseen#msg3820284
It’s skatable, but doesn’t feel as good to me compared to the forged stock indy with the IKP setup.
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Is it safe to say these trucks don’t wheelbite as bad as a thunder? Similar contact point to an ace low?
I'll preface this with "I get wheelbite on everything". Skating 52mm (rounded/conical edge) wheels across ACE44 lo and these forged mindys and it hasn't been an issue that would put me off.
Conversely, yes, the Thunder (forged) wheelbite is significantly more frequent/worse than the Forged Mindy (and Ace lo) at my desired looseness, with the same wheels, due to the insta-pinch. I just can't get myself to ride tighter trucks.
On sloppy landings I roll away much, much more on the ACE lo/Mindys than I do on thunders.
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When I did this same test with mids and some titaniums i noticed that the mids looked slightly off center on any baseplates. I think with the mid baseplate and inverted kingpin it is just harder to see.
I have titanium hangers on forged mid baseplates right now and it works well.
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I'm still thinking about getting the forged hollow mids, the height sounds great (50,5mm right?).
I am mainly on 52mm Spits.
But I don't want a inverted kingpin. Anyone might know how much of a pain it is too hammer the kingpin out of the mindy baseplate? Putting in a shorter regular kingpin then.
Not possible because of the shaft nut. Also stupid because you can just use a normal forged baseplate. The height reduction is all in the hanger.
Aaah, I see. Thanks for the explanation.
The mindy hanger sits differently on a regular forged plate.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3820284;topicseen#msg3820284
It’s skatable, but doesn’t feel as good to me compared to the forged stock indy with the IKP setup.
When I did it, without the IKP in place the mid hangar sat center on the mid plate) like the ti does in my pic above.
Now regardless of plate that all changes when you put the top bushing on which would force it center I’m guessing.
FWIW on my cast IKP plates (that you can buy standalone) all my stage XI ti or hollow hangers sit dead center; I’ll have to try the mid hanger on them.
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Is it safe to say these trucks don’t wheelbite as bad as a thunder? Similar contact point to an ace low?
I'll preface this with "I get wheelbite on everything". Skating 52mm (rounded/conical edge) wheels across ACE44 lo and these forged mindys and it hasn't been an issue that would put me off.
Conversely, yes, the Thunder (forged) wheelbite is significantly more frequent/worse than the Forged Mindy (and Ace lo) at my desired looseness, with the same wheels, due to the insta-pinch. I just can't get myself to ride tighter trucks.
On sloppy landings I roll away much, much more on the ACE lo/Mindys than I do on thunders.
Thanks….with the ace Lo, you swerve before you bite so it saves you…..venture hi’s are so shallow, it’s just rubs… it’s the angle of the thunder where you just get pitched…..
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Is it safe to say these trucks don’t wheelbite as bad as a thunder? Similar contact point to an ace low?
I'll preface this with "I get wheelbite on everything". Skating 52mm (rounded/conical edge) wheels across ACE44 lo and these forged mindys and it hasn't been an issue that would put me off.
Conversely, yes, the Thunder (forged) wheelbite is significantly more frequent/worse than the Forged Mindy (and Ace lo) at my desired looseness, with the same wheels, due to the insta-pinch. I just can't get myself to ride tighter trucks.
On sloppy landings I roll away much, much more on the ACE lo/Mindys than I do on thunders.
Thanks….with the ace Lo, you swerve before you bite so it saves you…..venture hi’s are so shallow, it’s just rubs… it’s the angle of the thunder where you just get pitched…..
On thunders it's almost instantaneous for me (loose trucks, sloppy style, and 185lbs)....it's very jarring.
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Landmine landings…..
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Landmine landings…..
Yes!
"...oh shit I'm gonna roll awaaaaa....wait wuhhh BOOOOOOOM!"
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Now I have to try a set of the forged mindys
I was grooving with the standard mindys on my krooked 8.38
But a lighter indy mid and xen approved against the top even ace?!
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If you’re grooving on the mindys and want a lower truck can’t go wrong with the forged mids.
FWIW, I tend to avoid skating Indy…heavy, slow…but I can’t deny these things are the goods for me and since they grind better than the royals…welll…
The Ace classic bottom and low classic top make these tho (just like they elevate venture).
I just set up my 8.38 manderson with them ;) been skating them on longer WB, hopefully I can adjust.
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I’m swearing off royals for good or for bad….I don’t need to get any nuttier….the fact Indy is at least trying to lighten them up is getting my wheels turning. The kingpin design could be better but I don’t think it’s that bad.
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When I did this same test with mids and some titaniums i noticed that the mids looked slightly off center on any baseplates. I think with the mid baseplate and inverted kingpin it is just harder to see.
I have titanium hangers on forged mid baseplates right now and it works well.
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I'm still thinking about getting the forged hollow mids, the height sounds great (50,5mm right?).
I am mainly on 52mm Spits.
But I don't want a inverted kingpin. Anyone might know how much of a pain it is too hammer the kingpin out of the mindy baseplate? Putting in a shorter regular kingpin then.
Not possible because of the shaft nut. Also stupid because you can just use a normal forged baseplate. The height reduction is all in the hanger.
Aaah, I see. Thanks for the explanation.
The mindy hanger sits differently on a regular forged plate.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3820284;topicseen#msg3820284
It’s skatable, but doesn’t feel as good to me compared to the forged stock indy with the IKP setup.
When I did it, without the IKP in place the mid hangar sat center on the mid plate) like the ti does in my pic above.
Now regardless of plate that all changes when you put the top bushing on which would force it center I’m guessing.
FWIW on my cast IKP plates (that you can buy standalone) all my stage XI ti or hollow hangers sit dead center; I’ll have to try the mid hanger on them.
Finally got around to trying out the cast IKP plates with the mid and ti hangers...same result.
The normal indy hanger yoke (hollow and ti) will sit dead center around a regular forged plate.
On both the IKP forged and cast plates non-mid hangers are clearly off center, with the kingpin almost touching the back of the yoke hole hanger side; likewise the mid hanger sits more forward on the regular plates and the kinping almost touched the front portion of the yoke hole. Perhaps it's just kinping angle.
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Truck nerds, I need help.
I skate stage IX 149's at the moment, but I noticed that the Tom Knox trucks are on sale and I'm curious to try a lighter truck, but I noticed that it's a mid profile truck. Now I'm 6'2" tall, is this going to be a pain in the arse to skate? Am I better off with the regular, taller trucks? What do I need to consider? (I've only got experience with standard Indy's)
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The hollow forged [knox] indys are 53.5mm tall, if you are indeed riding Stage IX (9) as you wrote in your post, you would notice no height difference as Stage IX (9) were 53.5mm tall. If you are riding Stage XI standards (cast plates) they are 55mm tall.
Dropping from 55mm to 53.5 mm The only real issues you could come across are your preferred wheel height messing things up and/or possibly not liking the feel of forged plates over cast.
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Are you wishing your current set up felt different? If not I implore you to not go down this path. Turn back before its too late.
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Are you wishing your current set up felt different? If not I implore you to not go down this path. Turn back before its too late.
+100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
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Yeah I'm just gonna stick with what I know, I'm happy with the truck's I've got I'm just having a bit of Gear Madness™!
Thanks for the advice!
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I have a set of indy forged hollow 149 and reynolds hollow mids 149. Should I be worried about damage while riding the mid hanger on the forged base plate? I tried it briefly and, as others mentioned, noted the king pin was not that well centered. Not totally sure what the ramifications are of that... maybe extra wear on pivot cups or king pin?
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I never got around to riding the aftermarket inverted baseplates but since Ace's kingpin clearance sucks and my hangers are nearing axle, I put my AF1 44 hangers on them and the geo works out. I was doing this on Stage 7+8 baseplates but they started to have kingpin play so I needed that shaft nut design to hold everything together without sacrificing turn.
I never had an issue with the kingpins loosening, but with these stage 11 inverted baseplates, they just kept loosening more and more my session last night. Anyone have any idea why this happens? Is the nylock they use in these baseplates inferior or something? I'm aware loctite could help but I've never messed with the stuff.
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I never got around to riding the aftermarket inverted baseplates but since Ace's kingpin clearance sucks and my hangers are nearing axle, I put my AF1 44 hangers on them and the geo works out. I was doing this on Stage 7+8 baseplates but they started to have kingpin play so I needed that shaft nut design to hold everything together without sacrificing turn.
I never had an issue with the kingpins loosening, but with these stage 11 inverted baseplates, they just kept loosening more and more my session last night. Anyone have any idea why this happens? Is the nylock they use in these baseplates inferior or something? I'm aware loctite could help but I've never messed with the stuff.
Do you have the kingpins tightened right down or left somewhere in the middle?
Others who didn't have them right down had a lot of issues, but those who had them right down didn't have any problems to my knowledge.
NHS did actually have a warranty thing going on for the mid baseplate issue, so you might be able to put in a warranty thing for them.
Compared to normal trucks where you can just put on a new nut, these ones are fixed so you either have to use lock tite or something like that once you get them where you want them.
I had all but left the inverted baseplate set on an old board, but I set them up again the other day just to see and although they worked fine and gave the most clearance, I still prefer a normal kingpin that I can more easily fix if needed.
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Well, I tried to use the OG Krux downlow kingpin and it doesn't have enough threads to tighten it all the way down, using the low Ace top + bottom bushings, since you at least need a low bottom for the geometry to work with an AF1 hanger on these inverted Indy baseplates. I have sets of Kreper kingpins which have tons of threading compared to the Krux, but I don't like how they make contact with the hanger when you turn all the way. So my only option for my nitpickyness was to use the ones that come with the baseplates, and it has enough threads to engage the nylock. I wish there was a truck as turny as Ace that has a normal kingpin that's super low, as I grind a lot and need something that will not hang up all the way to hitting axle:-\
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Was that on the cast or forged plates? and you are using AF1 hangers of I read that post right?
149 forged mids/K DLK/standard bottom washer
ACE regular (classic bottom) Low (classic) top.
Plenty of thread and still very loose.
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Hey guys, I've read through like 13 pages of this thread and see a lot of talk about kingpin clearance and truck height but not a ton about wheel base. What do these trucks do to the wheel base of the deck? I just got a pair and set my board up but it's raining. It feels like the wheel base is a little tighter. I was riding thunder hollows before this. Lately I'm obsessed with wb, currently riding a board that has a wb of 13.88
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Hey guys, I've read through like 13 pages of this thread and see a lot of talk about kingpin clearance and truck height but not a ton about wheel base. What do these trucks do to the wheel base of the deck? I just got a pair and set my board up but it's raining. It feels like the wheel base is a little tighter. I was riding thunder hollows before this. Lately I'm obsessed with wb, currently riding a board that has a wb of 13.88
If you have the trucks set up on your deck you could measure the distance center axel to axel, subtract the wheelbase from that number and then you get how much the trucks add to the wheelbase.
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Hey guys, I've read through like 13 pages of this thread and see a lot of talk about kingpin clearance and truck height but not a ton about wheel base. What do these trucks do to the wheel base of the deck? I just got a pair and set my board up but it's raining. It feels like the wheel base is a little tighter. I was riding thunder hollows before this. Lately I'm obsessed with wb, currently riding a board that has a wb of 13.88
If you have the trucks set up on your deck you could measure the distance center axel to axel, subtract the wheelbase from that number and then you get how much the trucks add to the wheelbase.
Thanks!
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Hey guys, I've read through like 13 pages of this thread and see a lot of talk about kingpin clearance and truck height but not a ton about wheel base. What do these trucks do to the wheel base of the deck? I just got a pair and set my board up but it's raining. It feels like the wheel base is a little tighter. I was riding thunder hollows before this. Lately I'm obsessed with wb, currently riding a board that has a wb of 13.88
If you have the trucks set up on your deck you could measure the distance center axel to axel, subtract the wheelbase from that number and then you get how much the trucks add to the wheelbase.
Thanks!
No problem, I almost pulled the trigger on some mids too. wonder what it does to the effective wheelbase compared to my forged hollows which I measured as adding an even 3”
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You need to measure both sides several times and average. Forged Hollows at +3.125 and Mids/Standards are +3"
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My forged hollows and ti are also 3” flat due to tightening and compression.
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Super subjective, but I thought vs. a thunder or Venture, the wheelbase was perfect……To me Indy does that the best, shit makes sense. It’s like BBS boards were drilled for Indy’s….
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Super subjective, but I thought vs. a thunder or Venture, the wheelbase was perfect……To me Indy does that the best, shit makes sense. It’s like BBS boards were drilled for Indy’s….
I got them because someone (friend who owns a shop) told me that Indy mids were the closest to the wheel base of the actual deck compared to all other trucks. I can say it seems like it even from just standing on the board and rolling. It also seems more responsive for tre flips, take less oomph to get them around.
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My forged hollows and ti are also 3” flat due to tightening and compression.
This demonstrates how silly it is that we often worry about 1/16" per side when that can vary by our truck tightness and shit.
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Been thinking about mindys. Right now I have an 8.38 manderson shape with standard 149s and 54mm F4s. I love everything about it but the ghost pop is real sometimes. I was thinking about getting forged hollows and just taking the baseplate and matching it with my standard hanger to make my trucks a little lower. Has anyone done this?
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i’ve wanted these from the jump
bummed i never got the indy lows, as they seemed very much like orions, aka the truck used in the second best fakie flip of all time. and the truck that many of the 90s dudes that i looked up to were shilling.
when the initial reviews weren’t stellar, i just stuck to the pile of trucks i’d already accumulated
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Truck nerds, I need help.
I skate stage IX 149's at the moment, but I noticed that the Tom Knox trucks are on sale and I'm curious to try a lighter truck, but I noticed that it's a mid profile truck. Now I'm 6'2" tall, is this going to be a pain in the arse to skate? Am I better off with the regular, taller trucks? What do I need to consider? (I've only got experience with standard Indy's)
If you're going by the description "a lightweight, mid profile truck" I don't think you have anything to worry about.
The tom knox trucks aren't actually Indy mids, It's just marketing lingo. What you need to be worried about is the actual height of the truck.
Stage 11 forged trucks are 53.5mm tall, and cast plates are 55mm tall.
iirc stage 9s are actually 53.5 mm tall, so if you're getting the tom knox forged hollows, they will actually be the same height. With all the other benefits of stage 11 vs stage 9.
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Reporting back on the Indy mids... I really like these trucks, first and foremost because they don't let you cheat. You have to be a lot more balanced from jump or the wheel bite is real. They're def going to force me to clean up my form a little. Landing stuff is a lot more satisfying because of it.
Grinds are just really nice and feel sort of softer? The turning radius is amazing compared to thunder. Way more maneuverable without having to have your trucks wildly loose. Thunder bushings are a lot harder but this is some sort of happy medium as far as the Indy stock bushings go.
I also like the weight of the truck, it actually seems to help with some tricks. My thunders always felt kind of light, but these feel just about right and seem to help the board rotate more balanced.
Things I didn't love but will get over: due to the wheel base thing, I had to figure almost all my flip tricks back out. Not the end of the world tho, I walked away feeling good I was capable of figuring it out. Wheel bite sucks but guess I should just get gud.
Ollie's feel more consistent and the weight of the truck seems to help a lot. I also like that they're lower, the tail hits faster and is more predictable when done well. The predictability is kind of nice, it let me focus on other aspects of technique. I haven't ridden trucks that felt so consistent in how they factor in when doing flip tricks.
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Reporting back on the Indy mids... I really like these trucks, first and foremost because they don't let you cheat. You have to be a lot more balanced from jump or the wheel bite is real. They're def going to force me to clean up my form a little. Landing stuff is a lot more satisfying because of it.
Grinds are just really nice and feel sort of softer? The turning radius is amazing compared to thunder. Way more maneuverable without having to have your trucks wildly loose. Thunder bushings are a lot harder but this is some sort of happy medium as far as the Indy stock bushings go.
I also like the weight of the truck, it actually seems to help with some tricks. My thunders always felt kind of light, but these feel just about right and seem to help the board rotate more balanced.
Things I didn't love but will get over: due to the wheel base thing, I had to figure almost all my flip tricks back out. Not the end of the world tho, I walked away feeling good I was capable of figuring it out. Wheel bite sucks but guess I should just get gud.
Ollie's feel more consistent and the weight of the truck seems to help a lot. I also like that they're lower, the tail hits faster and is more predictable when done well. The predictability is kind of nice, it let me focus on other aspects of technique. I haven't ridden trucks that felt so consistent in how they factor in when doing flip tricks.
They're 50.5mm tall [forged] , what size wheel are you rocking? I had to drop to thin 51/50mm and harder duro bushings (92+)
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Reporting back on the Indy mids... I really like these trucks, first and foremost because they don't let you cheat. You have to be a lot more balanced from jump or the wheel bite is real. They're def going to force me to clean up my form a little. Landing stuff is a lot more satisfying because of it.
Grinds are just really nice and feel sort of softer? The turning radius is amazing compared to thunder. Way more maneuverable without having to have your trucks wildly loose. Thunder bushings are a lot harder but this is some sort of happy medium as far as the Indy stock bushings go.
I also like the weight of the truck, it actually seems to help with some tricks. My thunders always felt kind of light, but these feel just about right and seem to help the board rotate more balanced.
Things I didn't love but will get over: due to the wheel base thing, I had to figure almost all my flip tricks back out. Not the end of the world tho, I walked away feeling good I was capable of figuring it out. Wheel bite sucks but guess I should just get gud.
Ollie's feel more consistent and the weight of the truck seems to help a lot. I also like that they're lower, the tail hits faster and is more predictable when done well. The predictability is kind of nice, it let me focus on other aspects of technique. I haven't ridden trucks that felt so consistent in how they factor in when doing flip tricks.
They're 50.5mm tall, what size wheel are you rocking? I had to drop to 51/50mm and harder duro bushings (92+)
I'm riding 52 mm formula 4s but I've had them for a few months so my guess is they're prob more like 51 or a tiny bit less (I skate a lot of street in Detroit so wheels take a beating). They're naturally looser than thunders, so I ended up tightening the kingpin with prob a 3/4 turn of the bolt.
They are still looser but after a single session it's like I've been skating them forever. Turning on them feels so intuitive and natural that I actually had to back off a little bit because my turns into things were a touch sharper than on thunders, which you have to put some oomph into.
They also made me balance way more. I'm seeing more consistency with flip tricks literally over the course of like a week. Probs never gonna skate anything else. I actually really like the stock bushings. They seem slightly softer than thunders. Landing tricks feels more chill on them.
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Are yours forged or normal plates?
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Are yours forged or normal plates?
Forged
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Reporting back on the Indy mids... I really like these trucks, first and foremost because they don't let you cheat. You have to be a lot more balanced from jump or the wheel bite is real. They're def going to force me to clean up my form a little. Landing stuff is a lot more satisfying because of it.
Grinds are just really nice and feel sort of softer? The turning radius is amazing compared to thunder. Way more maneuverable without having to have your trucks wildly loose. Thunder bushings are a lot harder but this is some sort of happy medium as far as the Indy stock bushings go.
I also like the weight of the truck, it actually seems to help with some tricks. My thunders always felt kind of light, but these feel just about right and seem to help the board rotate more balanced.
Things I didn't love but will get over: due to the wheel base thing, I had to figure almost all my flip tricks back out. Not the end of the world tho, I walked away feeling good I was capable of figuring it out. Wheel bite sucks but guess I should just get gud.
Ollie's feel more consistent and the weight of the truck seems to help a lot. I also like that they're lower, the tail hits faster and is more predictable when done well. The predictability is kind of nice, it let me focus on other aspects of technique. I haven't ridden trucks that felt so consistent in how they factor in when doing flip tricks.
They're 50.5mm tall, what size wheel are you rocking? I had to drop to 51/50mm and harder duro bushings (92+)
I'm riding 52 mm formula 4s but I've had them for a few months so my guess is they're prob more like 51 or a tiny bit less (I skate a lot of street in Detroit so wheels take a beating). They're naturally looser than thunders, so I ended up tightening the kingpin with prob a 3/4 turn of the bolt.
They are still looser but after a single session it's like I've been skating them forever. Turning on them feels so intuitive and natural that I actually had to back off a little bit because my turns into things were a touch sharper than on thunders, which you have to put some oomph into.
They also made me balance way more. I'm seeing more consistency with flip tricks literally over the course of like a week. Probs never gonna skate anything else. I actually really like the stock bushings. They seem slightly softer than thunders. Landing tricks feels more chill on them.
They're my favorite indys (the forged); you should be fine at 52/51 in cast or forged (depending on how loose you ride); sure they'll wheelbite but nowhere near as bad (stock) as thunders for me).
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Curious to see if Indy finally solved the IKP issue
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Curious to see if Indy finally solved the IKP issue
I haven't had any issues yet. The clearance is nice, no break in period.
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The issues were with it eventually loosening on its own. You can solve this with a dab of blue loctite if it happens to ya. I haven't seen this with Slappys so far.
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The issues were with it eventually loosening on its own. You can solve this with a dab of blue loctite if it happens to ya. I haven't seen this with Slappys so far.
Damn I love where they're at rn. Might just super glue the thing in.
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re: wheelbite....where they bite you don't get the same contact point and ejection seat as you do with thunders. With Ventures its the other extreme where I land standing on my wheel and I'm riding away at 45 degrees laughing.
I put in Krux because I think somehow I think it looks better....
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re: wheelbite....where they bite you don't get the same contact point and ejection seat as you do with thunders. With Ventures its the other extreme where I land standing on my wheel and I'm riding away at 45 degrees laughing.
I put in Krux because I think somehow I think it looks better....
First few days I was getting TOSSED. Particularly bad on a fakie heel flip. One of those flatground eat shit moments where you lay there for two minutes. After I adjusted I haven't had any issues. I think my balance skill went up a few notches overnight. Those stop rock level falls on tricks you have locked in wake you right the fuck up.
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The issues were with it eventually loosening on its own. You can solve this with a dab of blue loctite if it happens to ya. I haven't seen this with Slappys so far.
Chalking it up to them just using a plain old nut jamed in there and not a the shaft nut setup that Krux/Indy/Royal use...
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The issues were with it eventually loosening on its own. You can solve this with a dab of blue loctite if it happens to ya. I haven't seen this with Slappys so far.
Chalking it up to them just using a plain old nut jamed in there and not a the shaft nut setup that Krux/Indy/Royal use...
My DIY jammed (epoxied) nut Indys come loose all the time. I am really curious why some of these IKP trucks always seem to rattle loose and some hold up just fine.
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I had one session on my brand new forged 144 Mids a few weeks ago and the kingpin was loosening gradually over time. It wasn't anything dramatic but it was noticeable enough that it would have definitely become a problem for me.
I recently put some blue Loctite 242 on them because aside from the kingpin thing, I actually really liked them. No movement at all during session number two. I undershot the tightness though and they're a little loose for my liking. I'm pretty sure I got the tamest Loctite available so adjusting won't be a problem. I just hope the Loctite maintains some integrity after adjusting.
One thing I did notice during my second session was the bottom bushings were rotating a bit. The front one only about 30 degrees and the back one did almost 180. By the end of the session they seemed to have settled into position. I mark my bushings with a little black dot when I first get trucks in case I need to take my trucks apart, I know what orientation they were in when I took them apart. I've done that as long as I can remember and I don't recall that happening before.
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I run Ace classic hangers on stage 11 IKP baseplates. I have the 6 hole IKP plates cause I took them off some shitty 159 Reynolds mids that I got for super cheap. I actually like 6 hole plates better aesthetically, I know it's dumb haha. Anyways, yeah I even recently had my shit come loose even while using loctite which hasn't happened before so that had my madness going crazy like wtf? Took them apart and cleaned everything and let the new loctite cure for a full 24hrs and that did the trick. I think if it's kinda dirty in there and you don't let it cure for a good while, it might still bust loose. Either way, even the shaft nut design still doesn't prevent loosening it's just gonna happen if you don't gooch that kingpin full of blue Smurf sauce.
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I run Ace classic hangers on stage 11 IKP baseplates. I have the 6 hole IKP plates cause I took them off some shitty 159 Reynolds mids that I got for super cheap. I actually like 6 hole plates better aesthetically, I know it's dumb haha. Anyways, yeah I even recently had my shit come loose even while using loctite which hasn't happened before so that had my madness going crazy like wtf? Took them apart and cleaned everything and let the new loctite cure for a full 24hrs and that did the trick. I think if it's kinda dirty in there and you don't let it cure for a good while, it might still bust loose. Either way, even the shaft nut design still doesn't prevent loosening it's just gonna happen if you don't gooch that kingpin full of blue Smurf sauce.
I'm kinda starting to wonder if everyone here outweighs me by a lot, or if I just got a good set.
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re: wheelbite....where they bite you don't get the same contact point and ejection seat as you do with thunders. With Ventures its the other extreme where I land standing on my wheel and I'm riding away at 45 degrees laughing.
I put in Krux because I think somehow I think it looks better....
First few days I was getting TOSSED. Particularly bad on a fakie heel flip. One of those flatground eat shit moments where you lay there for two minutes. After I adjusted I haven't had any issues. I think my balance skill went up a few notches overnight. Those stop rock level falls on tricks you have locked in wake you right the fuck up.
on topic, i want to try indy mids.
to your post….i’ve never had heelflips, much less fakie heels, on lock. i can do heelflips, but they feel, and have to look, highly unnatural. like i figured out where to put my feet and then press the buttons in the right order. or some shit. maybe i am a heelflipper, because i’ve tried SO MANY kickflips in my life, and i go months without thinking about a heelflip, and then occasionally i’ll land a shit one.
anyfuckingways, i’ve definitely taken some slams on fakie heels (always in games of skate), that were not like a regular flatground slam. full on dead guy off of the top rope.
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Jabari Pendleton? That’s the only person who I can think of that’s a fakie heel guy…..
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I run Ace classic hangers on stage 11 IKP baseplates. I have the 6 hole IKP plates cause I took them off some shitty 159 Reynolds mids that I got for super cheap. I actually like 6 hole plates better aesthetically, I know it's dumb haha. Anyways, yeah I even recently had my shit come loose even while using loctite which hasn't happened before so that had my madness going crazy like wtf? Took them apart and cleaned everything and let the new loctite cure for a full 24hrs and that did the trick. I think if it's kinda dirty in there and you don't let it cure for a good while, it might still bust loose. Either way, even the shaft nut design still doesn't prevent loosening it's just gonna happen if you don't gooch that kingpin full of blue Smurf sauce.
6-hole plate’s definitely look better, more butch.
i cannot help be come off as judgmental here: why the ace hanger, with the indy plate? isn’t that opposite of what would be good?
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Jabari Pendleton? That’s the only person who I can think of that’s a fakie heel guy…..
fucking excellent call out there. i really enjoy his footage.
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re: wheelbite....where they bite you don't get the same contact point and ejection seat as you do with thunders. With Ventures its the other extreme where I land standing on my wheel and I'm riding away at 45 degrees laughing.
I put in Krux because I think somehow I think it looks better....
First few days I was getting TOSSED. Particularly bad on a fakie heel flip. One of those flatground eat shit moments where you lay there for two minutes. After I adjusted I haven't had any issues. I think my balance skill went up a few notches overnight. Those stop rock level falls on tricks you have locked in wake you right the fuck up.
on topic, i want to try indy mids.
to your post….i’ve never had heelflips, much less fakie heels, on lock. i can do heelflips, but they feel, and have to look, highly unnatural. like i figured out where to put my feet and then press the buttons in the right order. or some shit. maybe i am a heelflipper, because i’ve tried SO MANY kickflips in my life, and i go months without thinking about a heelflip, and then occasionally i’ll land a shit one.
anyfuckingways, i’ve definitely taken some slams on fakie heels (always in games of skate), that were not like a regular flatground slam. full on dead guy off of the top rope.
Definitely some sniper level type shit. I think it's because you really have to sit in a fakie heel to land it and fully commit. Do that going backwards, with wheel bite, on like two pushes, and you're fucked. To your post, I'm def a heel flip girl, they just have always worked and proper. Took me like three years of religiously working on kickflips to get to the same point with them.
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I disagree, if you have any power or hops fakie heels are super easy. It's a trick where just kicking super hard after a strong pop does the rest for you.
I low key hate them because that's one of the tricks that breaks my tails.
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I disagree, if you have any power or hops fakie heels are super easy. It's a trick where just kicking super hard after a strong pop does the rest for you.
I low key hate them because that's one of the tricks that breaks my tails.
Reads like a 30 second pro trick tip.
"Set up for a heel going a good speed, pop really high, and just flick really hard, land bolts and roll away"
Ok.
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Maybe it's me and the people I skated with growing up, but it was considered one of the easiest things once you learned em and for a while we gave each other shit for doing 'fake nollie heels'. So its possible I've just done a lot of them cuz by "give each other shit" I mean "everyone gave me shit". Also got some shit for sw shuvs
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I run Ace classic hangers on stage 11 IKP baseplates. I have the 6 hole IKP plates cause I took them off some shitty 159 Reynolds mids that I got for super cheap. I actually like 6 hole plates better aesthetically, I know it's dumb haha. Anyways, yeah I even recently had my shit come loose even while using loctite which hasn't happened before so that had my madness going crazy like wtf? Took them apart and cleaned everything and let the new loctite cure for a full 24hrs and that did the trick. I think if it's kinda dirty in there and you don't let it cure for a good while, it might still bust loose. Either way, even the shaft nut design still doesn't prevent loosening it's just gonna happen if you don't gooch that kingpin full of blue Smurf sauce.
6-hole plate’s definitely look better, more butch.
i cannot help be come off as judgmental here: why the ace hanger, with the indy plate? isn’t that opposite of what would be good?
I was on stage 7 baseplates with AF1 hangers but the one plate doesn't hold the nut anymore and I was too lazy to JB weld it, so I pulled out some classic hangers and tried it with the stage 11 plates and it works. The turn still stays Ace, and I'll take an Ace hanger any day over an Indy for aesthetics. But obviously, the main reason is because I need inverted kingpins and Ace doesn't offer that option yet. I've seen that joey pulsifer dude testing some prototypes, though.
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I disagree, if you have any power or hops fakie heels are super easy. It's a trick where just kicking super hard after a strong pop does the rest for you.
I low key hate them because that's one of the tricks that breaks my tails.
Reads like a 30 second pro trick tip.
"Set up for a heel going a good speed, pop really high, and just flick really hard, land bolts and roll away"
Ok.
in the olden days, like single digit 411 vm days, billy pepper had a switch varial heel trick tip that was as you say, just flexing.
i’m not tall, and that trick wanted to possibly credit card me.
i’m stoked @LebowskisRug and them were running the fakie heel. i thought they were underrated, and not nearly as easy as nollie/switch heels.
@logjammin the ace hanger does look very nice, i’ve always favored the look. my jerkwad comment was based off of the turning of ace, their superior characteristic, coming from the kingpin/baseplate, and indy’s having the better durability/better grind, in the hanger.
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I disagree, if you have any power or hops fakie heels are super easy. It's a trick where just kicking super hard after a strong pop does the rest for you.
I low key hate them because that's one of the tricks that breaks my tails.
Reads like a 30 second pro trick tip.
"Set up for a heel going a good speed, pop really high, and just flick really hard, land bolts and roll away"
Ok.
in the olden days, like single digit 411 vm days, billy pepper had a switch varial heel trick tip that was as you say, just flexing.
I'll never forget Tim Brauch explaining how to do a blunt to tre flip.
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I disagree, if you have any power or hops fakie heels are super easy. It's a trick where just kicking super hard after a strong pop does the rest for you.
I low key hate them because that's one of the tricks that breaks my tails.
Reads like a 30 second pro trick tip.
"Set up for a heel going a good speed, pop really high, and just flick really hard, land bolts and roll away"
Ok.
in the olden days, like single digit 411 vm days, billy pepper had a switch varial heel trick tip that was as you say, just flexing.
I'll never forget Tim Brauch explaining how to do a blunt to tre flip.
i’ll need to find that one.
hopefully he said ‘ride away clean’.
as awkward as some of the old thrasher writing could be, it ran laps around the transworld stuff. those dudes sucked so bad and would just say the same things over and over, ‘style for miles’, that kind of thing. it was always so grating.
now i’m just ranting
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I disagree, if you have any power or hops fakie heels are super easy. It's a trick where just kicking super hard after a strong pop does the rest for you.
I low key hate them because that's one of the tricks that breaks my tails.
Reads like a 30 second pro trick tip.
"Set up for a heel going a good speed, pop really high, and just flick really hard, land bolts and roll away"
Ok.
in the olden days, like single digit 411 vm days, billy pepper had a switch varial heel trick tip that was as you say, just flexing.
I'll never forget Tim Brauch explaining how to do a blunt to tre flip.
i’ll need to find that one.
Please do. I haven't seen it since my mom helped my dub a copy of that 411 tape in ~1993.
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Lol’d seeing Koston just getting pitched on the fakie heel…..
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Anybody else here tried teflon tape?
I used tellow teflon tape or Gas rated teflon tape and my kingpin has not come loose on my mid standard 144s. These are the first ones that came out as well if that makes a difference.
They skate great but wheelbite more thatn my 151 thunder hollow team trucks.
I like magic carpet riding over monster trucking, so i switched to the 144s
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Anybody else here tried teflon tape?
I used tellow teflon tape or Gas rated teflon tape and my kingpin has not come loose on my mid standard 144s. These are the first ones that came out as well if that makes a difference.
They skate great but wheelbite more thatn my 151 thunder hollow team trucks.
I like magic carpet riding over monster trucking, so i switched to the 144s
Damn, this is a really good idea. I've got some DIY IKP 144s which always come loose despite ample blue Loctite, and I've got rolls and rolls of Teflon tape, so I'm going to try this next.
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Anybody else here tried teflon tape?
I used tellow teflon tape or Gas rated teflon tape and my kingpin has not come loose on my mid standard 144s. These are the first ones that came out as well if that makes a difference.
They skate great but wheelbite more thatn my 151 thunder hollow team trucks.
I like magic carpet riding over monster trucking, so i switched to the 144s
Damn, this is a really good idea. I've got some DIY IKP 144s which always come loose despite ample blue Loctite, and I've got rolls and rolls of Teflon tape, so I'm going to try this next.
Use the yellow one though. Shits a little thicker.
I like my teflon like i like my hinas. Thick as fuck.
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Took apart my front truck today to find the shaft nut totally loose inside the baseplate. Done with ever using these Indy IKP plates now. Unless anyone can attest to it not happening with the forged ones?
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Took apart my front truck today to find the shaft nut totally loose inside the baseplate. Done with ever using these Indy IKP plates now. Unless anyone can attest to it not happening with the forged ones?
Do NHS still warranty that, like they used to, or have they had enough and don't want to deal with the Mid kingpin issue any more?
Guessing it might be out of acceptable warranty period too, but it never hurts to check.
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I used some old converted ace classic plates with the jb weld for the hold as an emergency and they actually worked perfect today. They used to feel like something was off with the turn for some reason, and have a little kingpin play in the baseplates, so I just threw them in the junk box. Today I equipped them with Kreper pins and I think the thicker and sturdier steel alleviated the issue of play. Nice to no longer be on frankentrucks. I'd keep some forged inverted Indy plates as a backup option if they're worth it, I wish they just sold the baseplates though.
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By using an off brand kingpin you're still on Frankentrucks
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Anyone here have experience with standard Thunder teams and cast Indy mids? Asking because those seem to be the closest in height. Looking for comparisons on how they turn, grind, pinch, stability, etc. Most of my experience is with standard cast Indys and Venture highs.
Thanks!
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Anyone here have experience with standard Thunder teams and cast Indy mids? Asking because those seem to be the closest in height. Looking for comparisons on how they turn, grind, pinch, stability, etc. Most of my experience is with standard cast Indys and Venture highs.
Thanks!
Seriously?
Mindys skate like indys
Thunders Teams skate like thunders
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I wish they just sold the baseplates though.
They do. https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/genuine-parts-inverted-kingpin-baseplate-set-independent (https://nhsskatedirect.com/products/genuine-parts-inverted-kingpin-baseplate-set-independent)
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Had a lot of track madness lately since I've sized down and want a lower truck. I tried the Reynolds mids and really loved the geometry, but man the heaviness got to me on flip tricks. I'm wondering if forged plates would actually help for flip tricks since it seems most of the weight is in the hanger?
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Seriously?
Mindys skate like indys
Thunders Teams skate like thunders
Fair enough. I guess I'm wondering if Indy mids make them turn/behave a little more like a Thunder due to the decreased height. Assuming that since they're lower, they won't turn quite as deep as a standard.
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Seriously?
Mindys skate like indys
Thunders Teams skate like thunders
Fair enough. I guess I'm wondering if Indy mids make them turn/behave a little more like a Thunder due to the decreased height. Assuming that since they're lower, they won't turn quite as deep as a standard.
They turn like a shitty Indy and they squeak no matter what you do. The height doesn't affect turn as much as you might assume, there's 49mm trucks that will turn on a dime or surf...its mostly in the geo/bushing setup.
If you want a mid height truck with a deep turn ace classics are where I'd start.
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Fucking hated the set of mids I had. Felt wildly different than normal Indy’s to me.
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Had a lot of track madness lately since I've sized down and want a lower truck. I tried the Reynolds mids and really loved the geometry, but man the heaviness got to me on flip tricks. I'm wondering if forged plates would actually help for flip tricks since it seems most of the weight is in the hanger?
The forged mids are still my favorite Indy if you are hunting for a low [indy] truck that has that style of geo; Ace low comes damn close but only with hard bushings.
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Wonder if they'll discontinue them? I don't see many sponsored riders on them anymore and my locals don't carry them which says a lot since Rhino is also local.
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Wonder if they'll discontinue them? I don't see many sponsored riders on them anymore and my locals don't carry them which says a lot since Rhino is also local.
Most of the shops that I have seen have overstock of the mids and have been trying to clear them out, some for pretty much wholesale prices just to get rid of them.
Maybe the forged or hollow versions have a little more interest, or everyone just over ordered everything when they first came out and people went back to whatever other options they were on before.
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it seemed for a hot minute truck companies were stepping over each other during and post COVID. I wouldn't be surprised, but honestly I think they were fine, not a bad truck. i actually think they are a good thunder alternative, the turn better, shorter wheelbase, still pretty heavy though and there's a point where the best move is to pick one of the three traditional trucks ie. thunder/venture hi/regular indy.
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Wonder if they'll discontinue them? I don't see many sponsored riders on them anymore and my locals don't carry them which says a lot since Rhino is also local.
Even Tiago might have ditched them. Looks like his trucks have a normal kingpin in all of his more recent IG stuff.
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I think I may be in the minority here, but I have had 2 pairs of Mindys. 1 set of the forged hollows and 1 set of regulars. I like the pop feel of the standards and the weight to them. The Forged hollows were low and dope as well. I hope they figured out the IKP issues because it’s a great truck. For those asking about the comparison to thunders, the height is the only thing that is similar.
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Carlos Ribeiro just recently released his colorway on the mids. He seems to love them
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For the record, I actually really liked my set of forged hollow mids but I unfortunately had the loosening kingpin issue. Loctite did the job of keeping it in place, but I adjust the tightness of my trucks throughout their life and I didn't want to be dealing with that over and over
I think I'd be perfectly happy with an Indy mid with a regular kingpin, even at the cost of some clearance.
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Wonder if they'll discontinue them? I don't see many sponsored riders on them anymore and my locals don't carry them which says a lot since Rhino is also local.
Even Tiago might have ditched them. Looks like his trucks have a normal kingpin in all of his more recent IG stuff.
Gnar'd for being a fellow IG sleuth
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I think I may be in the minority here, but I have had 2 pairs of Mindys. 1 set of the forged hollows and 1 set of regulars. I like the pop feel of the standards and the weight to them. The Forged hollows were low and dope as well. I hope they figured out the IKP issues because it’s a great truck. For those asking about the comparison to thunders, the height is the only thing that is similar.
What trucks would you think they are close to (other than Indys)?
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When I came off Mindys due to shaft nut issues I thought they'd be closest to a Thunder due to the height, but I found Forged Hollow Indys to be the best transition. Probably because at the end of the day lots of tricks depend on scooping the board, which the turn-in does contribute to and that was closest.
It was pretty night and day. I went from Mindys on the AH Eagle shape, then FH and my pop was much nicer. Tried both on an 8.38/14.38 and was like "why did I waste my time on these"
More recently I was chatting with an Indy sponsored rider at my local skatepark. Total ATV/bowl crusher. He had the IKP plates with standard hangers and had tried to loctite the shaft nuts in place, but he got hung up on something and it yanked the nut out of place and the assembly was wobbling. Dude rides fairly tight trucks and hated the Mid hangers. Next time I saw him he was on Thunder 151s with Indy bushings so.... I guess he is "fucking with the rest"
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I think I may be in the minority here, but I have had 2 pairs of Mindys. 1 set of the forged hollows and 1 set of regulars. I like the pop feel of the standards and the weight to them. The Forged hollows were low and dope as well. I hope they figured out the IKP issues because it’s a great truck. For those asking about the comparison to thunders, the height is the only thing that is similar.
What trucks would you think they are close to (other than Indys)?
Forged Hollow Mindy (50.5mm)
Mini logo (47.5mm) <- lighter than either and no IKP
Ace Low (49mm)
ML are terribly underrated trucks. If you want a low indy that doesn't way like an ACE, this is what you want. KP clearance could be better tho.
But if you really want a truck like a Thunder or Venture but has a smoother indy-ish turn = Royal.
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When I came off Mindys due to shaft nut issues I thought they'd be closest to a Thunder due to the height, but I found Forged Hollow Indys to be the best transition. Probably because at the end of the day lots of tricks depend on scooping the board, which the turn-in does contribute to and that was closest.
It was pretty night and day. I went from Mindys on the AH Eagle shape, then FH and my pop was much nicer. Tried both on an 8.38/14.38 and was like "why did I waste my time on these"
More recently I was chatting with an Indy sponsored rider at my local skatepark. Total ATV/bowl crusher. He had the IKP plates with standard hangers and had tried to loctite the shaft nuts in place, but he got hung up on something and it yanked the nut out of place and the assembly was wobbling. Dude rides fairly tight trucks and hated the Mid hangers. Next time I saw him he was on Thunder 151s with Indy bushings so.... I guess he is "fucking with the rest"
I agree with you in saying Forged Hollow Indy’s are closest to thunder. I’m curious if Indy had made an effort to actually try and resolve the IKP issue or if they are just letting it slide (pun intended)
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I'm not sure it can be resolved really. Maybe the Slappy design is better/different? Frankly, the trucks were sort of a miss and the team riders seem to have all moved on. They're not bad, but just don't really solve a problem. I think people wanted a lower truck, but not necessarily at the expense of a much heavier hanger and KP. The KP and shaft nut assembly is heavier than a normal kingpin/nut. What they should have done instead was modify the plates so the hanger is the same as Ace has done. That way you maintain some clearance without adding weight.
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Agreed. People buy the after market IKP kit from Indy and think that they are getting a mid. Really it’s just the 55mm height of the standard and it’s heavier. This begs the question…what tricks are you running??
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Is / was the boss on these at any point, or was he always on standard 139s? I only ask because he had that signature model.
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Agreed. People buy the after market IKP kit from Indy and think that they are getting a mid. Really it’s just the 55mm height of the standard and it’s heavier. This begs the question…what tricks are you running??
Not sure if you were asking me but right now I have Venture 5.6 cast with the hollow KP and axle. I also have Thunder Standards that I really like.
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Agreed. People buy the after market IKP kit from Indy and think that they are getting a mid. Really it’s just the 55mm height of the standard and it’s heavier. This begs the question…what tricks are you running??
Not sure if you were asking me but right now I have Venture 5.6 cast with the hollow KP and axle. I also have Thunder Standards that I really like.
Tight!! I have heard good things about those ventures.
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Is / was the boss on these at any point, or was he always on standard 139s? I only ask because he had that signature model.
That’s called marketing.
Sure he rode em got some photo incentives, proceeds from the first hollow Mindy…he’s moved on to stage IV and whatever his maddess requires and what’s free in his monthly box? He was recently battling 8.3 vs 8.06 in hopes it would flip better.
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Oh he's been off Stage IV for a while haha. He's amusing to follow cuz he's very gear obsessed and constantly optimizing, but he's also Andrew fuckin' Reynolds. I can never tell a difference in what he skates and recently he posted he's on an 8" with 139s again but was recently on 8.38 with 139. I've seen him say that he goes into the warehouse and hand selects decks with exactly the concave and kicks he wants so he probably got the Mid signature truck offer and went and did his madness in the warehouse to find what to pair with it then moved on once he likely had the same problems everyone else did.
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Oh he's been off Stage IV for a while haha. He's amusing to follow cuz he's very gear obsessed and constantly optimizing, but he's also Andrew fuckin' Reynolds. I can never tell a difference in what he skates and recently he posted he's on an 8" with 139s again but was recently on 8.38 with 139. I've seen him say that he goes into the warehouse and hand selects decks with exactly the concave and kicks he wants so he probably got the Mid signature truck offer and went and did his madness in the warehouse to find what to pair with it then moved on once he likely had the same problems everyone else did.
saw that too, the madness has him! He didn't post the result of the 8 vs 8.3
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Thanks. I'm no on insta but am always curious about what the boss is skating.
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Thanks. I'm no on insta but am always curious about what the boss is skating.
i very much enjoy finding out what the pros use
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I setup a pair of 139 mids reynolds with the hollow axle. They were on a chocolate board with a 14" WB. Board just felt heavy. Even the pop. I had about three sessions and I slapped my thunders back on. Couldn't do it.
Probably 10 years ago. I was riding 129 indy lows on a 7.6" board. That was my jam. I think I tried venture, krux, and tensor. They all turned like shit. But the indy low turned like a thunder. I watched the video nhs put out about phasing out the low and replacing it with the mid. Saying they weren't happy with the geometry of the truck. Stumbled upon thunders and spec wise. Very similar. Been on thunders for a couple years now.
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Reynolds skates 139 std highs, with a kingpin thats been cut down for more clearence. He had pic of it on IG.
And he said on the Nineclub that he was skating 8.25, but ye. He was skating 8,5 board with 139!
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You sure that wasn’t the stage IV pin he cut down on insta?
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^
Yes sry, thats correct. He does not skate mids, but std highs with kingpin cut.
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It was pretty cool to see him angle grinding his own Stage 4 reissue kingpins down, but those things were long.
Prior to that he had posted a set of Stage 11 standard baseplates that someone else had machined down the kingpins on to look very professional.
Someone took a screen shot of it and posted it here, but I can't find it right this minute.
Gotta say though that I enjoy most kingpins a little bit shorter too, especially the back one, but taking one or two threads down is pretty common and works a charm for me, as well as some others I know.
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.
It was pretty cool to see him angle grinding his own Stage 4 reissue kingpins down, but those things were long.
Prior to that he had posted a set of Stage 11 standard baseplates that someone else had machined down the kingpins on to look very professional.
Someone took a screen shot of it and posted it here, but I can't find it right this minute.
Gotta say though that I enjoy most kingpins a little bit shorter too, especially the back one, but taking one or two threads down is pretty common and works a charm for me, as well as some others I know.
does this end up shortening the height of the hanger, and brining the effective wb in?
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.
It was pretty cool to see him angle grinding his own Stage 4 reissue kingpins down, but those things were long.
Prior to that he had posted a set of Stage 11 standard baseplates that someone else had machined down the kingpins on to look very professional.
Someone took a screen shot of it and posted it here, but I can't find it right this minute.
Gotta say though that I enjoy most kingpins a little bit shorter too, especially the back one, but taking one or two threads down is pretty common and works a charm for me, as well as some others I know.
does this end up shortening the height of the hanger, and brining the effective wb in?
Only if the bottom bushing sits lower (machined the surface where bottom bushing touches baseplate). If you mean that only the kingpin was machined shorter, the geometry shouldn’t change, only increased kingpin clearance (and probably tighter trucks). I haven’t seen that picture myself, if someone has it, please post it as i’m pretty interested :)
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.
It was pretty cool to see him angle grinding his own Stage 4 reissue kingpins down, but those things were long.
Prior to that he had posted a set of Stage 11 standard baseplates that someone else had machined down the kingpins on to look very professional.
Someone took a screen shot of it and posted it here, but I can't find it right this minute.
Gotta say though that I enjoy most kingpins a little bit shorter too, especially the back one, but taking one or two threads down is pretty common and works a charm for me, as well as some others I know.
does this end up shortening the height of the hanger, and brining the effective wb in?
Only if the bottom bushing sits lower (machined the surface where bottom bushing touches baseplate). If you mean that only the kingpin was machined shorter, the geometry shouldn’t change, only increased kingpin clearance (and probably tighter trucks). I haven’t seen that picture myself, if someone has it, please post it as i’m pretty interested :)
I do the same to my kingpins a lot, so no changes to the geometry of the truck as the stock bushings (or my aftermarket low head bushings) still sit at the normal height, then the tops are as usual with the nut just sitting down lower and not having any threads showing.
On stock / untouched trucks, I would often have one thread or so showing on the back truck with normal bushings, or about three threads showing with the low head bushings, same as the Venture loose kit - just the same bottom bushings, lower head top bushing.
When I see some people with more than half a thread showing on the kingpin, I instantly want to reach for the grinder, but thankfully I am not that crazy about it.
Quite often I have shown people what I do to mine and some then do it themselves, with others asking if I can take the top of their kingpin off, which I can do easily enough.
Definitely not mandatory, but it does help with clearance when a little more is needed, especially on the back truck for me.
* I have even done it with regular baseplates when trying the Indy mid hangers, which work a treat too - no more inverted kingpin issues and still giving enough clearance for the trucks to function as they should, for the people who wanted that as an option.
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Guess they're still pushing them / maybe he really likes them?
(https://blacklistboardshop.com/cdn/shop/files/CRINDYMIDGOLD.jpg?v=1691611219&width=713)
https://nhsskatedirect.com/blogs/nhs-skate-direct/carlos-ribeiros-new-pro-trucks-switch-crooks-on-a-double-kinked-rail
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Guess they're still pushing them / maybe he really likes them?
(https://blacklistboardshop.com/cdn/shop/files/CRINDYMIDGOLD.jpg?v=1691611219&width=713)
https://nhsskatedirect.com/blogs/nhs-skate-direct/carlos-ribeiros-new-pro-trucks-switch-crooks-on-a-double-kinked-rail
some of the best pop of my wack little skate life had been on indy’s, but i always look for a reason to skate something different. and when you all had a bad time with the mids i skipped.
carlos is amazing tho
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Guess they're still pushing them / maybe he really likes them?
(https://blacklistboardshop.com/cdn/shop/files/CRINDYMIDGOLD.jpg?v=1691611219&width=713)
https://nhsskatedirect.com/blogs/nhs-skate-direct/carlos-ribeiros-new-pro-trucks-switch-crooks-on-a-double-kinked-rail
some of the best pop of my wack little skate life had been on indy’s, but i always look for a reason to skate something different. and when you all had a bad time with the mids i skipped.
carlos is amazing tho
I had a great time on the Forged-Mids, just stopped riding heavy ass indys (and 149s) =D
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Guess they're still pushing them / maybe he really likes them?
(https://blacklistboardshop.com/cdn/shop/files/CRINDYMIDGOLD.jpg?v=1691611219&width=713)
https://nhsskatedirect.com/blogs/nhs-skate-direct/carlos-ribeiros-new-pro-trucks-switch-crooks-on-a-double-kinked-rail
some of the best pop of my wack little skate life had been on indy’s, but i always look for a reason to skate something different. and when you all had a bad time with the mids i skipped.
carlos is amazing tho
I had a great time on the Forged-Mids, just stopped riding heavy ass indys (and 149s) =D
indy 149s are how i came to slap. ‘everyone’ was switching to them. kickflips were ok, nollie flips and treflips were fucked.
indy 149s hurt me
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Guess they're still pushing them / maybe he really likes them?
(https://blacklistboardshop.com/cdn/shop/files/CRINDYMIDGOLD.jpg?v=1691611219&width=713)
https://nhsskatedirect.com/blogs/nhs-skate-direct/carlos-ribeiros-new-pro-trucks-switch-crooks-on-a-double-kinked-rail
some of the best pop of my wack little skate life had been on indy’s, but i always look for a reason to skate something different. and when you all had a bad time with the mids i skipped.
carlos is amazing tho
I had a great time on the Forged-Mids, just stopped riding heavy ass indys (and 149s) =D
indy 149s are how i came to slap. ‘everyone’ was switching to them. kickflips were ok, nollie flips and treflips were fucked.
indy 149s hurt me
144/148s are where it's at for me; safely ride them on 8.125-8.3 with no OCD.
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Guess they're still pushing them / maybe he really likes them?
(https://blacklistboardshop.com/cdn/shop/files/CRINDYMIDGOLD.jpg?v=1691611219&width=713)
https://nhsskatedirect.com/blogs/nhs-skate-direct/carlos-ribeiros-new-pro-trucks-switch-crooks-on-a-double-kinked-rail
some of the best pop of my wack little skate life had been on indy’s, but i always look for a reason to skate something different. and when you all had a bad time with the mids i skipped.
carlos is amazing tho
I had a great time on the Forged-Mids, just stopped riding heavy ass indys (and 149s) =D
indy 149s are how i came to slap. ‘everyone’ was switching to them. kickflips were ok, nollie flips and treflips were fucked.
indy 149s hurt me
144/148s are where it's at for me; safely ride them on 8.125-8.3 with no OCD.
yes.
i’m going to skate my 148s today, just to be anti-madness.
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Guess they're still pushing them / maybe he really likes them?
(https://blacklistboardshop.com/cdn/shop/files/CRINDYMIDGOLD.jpg?v=1691611219&width=713)
https://nhsskatedirect.com/blogs/nhs-skate-direct/carlos-ribeiros-new-pro-trucks-switch-crooks-on-a-double-kinked-rail
some of the best pop of my wack little skate life had been on indy’s, but i always look for a reason to skate something different. and when you all had a bad time with the mids i skipped.
carlos is amazing tho
I had a great time on the Forged-Mids, just stopped riding heavy ass indys (and 149s) =D
indy 149s are how i came to slap. ‘everyone’ was switching to them. kickflips were ok, nollie flips and treflips were fucked.
indy 149s hurt me
144/148s are where it's at for me; safely ride them on 8.125-8.3 with no OCD.
yes.
i’m going to skate my 148s today, just to be anti-madness.
Put on some slim wheels ;)
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I've tried 8.5 trucks and really didn't find anything better on them and seemed to get more wheelbite/scoop ghost pop so I went back to 8.25 trucks and have been fine on them even up to 8.5. After all- Bobby and Ishod both rock 8" trucks on the 8.38 twin tail and not thaaat many pros are hot rodding significantly these days.
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I've tried 8.5 trucks and really didn't find anything better on them and seemed to get more wheelbite/scoop ghost pop so I went back to 8.25 trucks and have been fine on them even up to 8.5. After all- Bobby and Ishod both rock 8" trucks on the 8.38 twin tail and not thaaat many pros are hot rodding significantly these days.
there was a significant diminished return, for me, on flatground, which gets almost all of my attention, with 149s/5.8s etc.
the pull is the ‘feel’ sometimes the bigger setups feel great.
some of the most consistent pro’s skate the 8” trucks: ishod, yuto, nyjah. didn’t realize the bob was on 5.2s! i need to get my life together.
@Xen DAMMIT! i already setup these 52 lock-ins and they look so stupid. and i know i hate the scoop on them. whatever. classics only, going forward, until i get something more slimming
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I've tried 8.5 trucks and really didn't find anything better on them and seemed to get more wheelbite/scoop ghost pop so I went back to 8.25 trucks and have been fine on them even up to 8.5. After all- Bobby and Ishod both rock 8" trucks on the 8.38 twin tail and not thaaat many pros are hot rodding significantly these days.
there was a significant diminished return, for me, on flatground, which gets almost all of my attention, with 149s/5.8s etc.
the pull is the ‘feel’ sometimes the bigger setups feel great.
some of the most consistent pro’s skate the 8” trucks: ishod, yuto, nyjah. didn’t realize the bob was on 5.2s! i need to get my life together.
@Xen DAMMIT! i already setup these 52 lock-ins and they look so stupid. and i know i hate the scoop on them. whatever. classics only, going forward, until i get something more slimming
oof - I imagine they're not pleasing to the eye. I'm still on V1 bones (x99) or V3 stfs...really wish they'd made a V2/v3 in x99 - I like me some slim (light) wheels.
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I haven't been the biggest fan of the X urethane but with that said I haven't removed my X99 V5 yet. That shape is really rad.
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
Put a mark on your kingpin bolt with a Sharpie and make sure they’re not self-loosening first. This is a known issue and might be why they feel like they’re not firming up/breaking in properly. I ended up using a regular baseplate/kingpin with my mids because the IKPs tend to loosen themselves.
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
Atleast for me, after one session they stiffen up and then i wish they would be looser again
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
Put a mark on your kingpin bolt with a Sharpie and make sure they’re not self-loosening first. This is a known issue and might be why they feel like they’re not firming up/breaking in properly. I ended up using a regular baseplate/kingpin with my mids because the IKPs tend to loosen themselves.
I would keep tighten them and they would get a little tighter but still too surfy, I ended up taking the bushings off my old Indy’s and now we’re cooking thanks tho
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
Blue 92s, my dude. Blue 92s.
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
Put a mark on your kingpin bolt with a Sharpie and make sure they’re not self-loosening first. This is a known issue and might be why they feel like they’re not firming up/breaking in properly. I ended up using a regular baseplate/kingpin with my mids because the IKPs tend to loosen themselves.
I would keep tighten them and they would get a little tighter but still too surfy, I ended up taking the bushings off my old Indy’s and now we’re cooking thanks tho
In messing around with a lot of mids, if you can end up wtih the kingpin down at full lock in the baseplate, there is way less chance of it loosening off, as well as having the kingpin at the lowest point / giving more clearance.
Just getting whatever bushings right to fit that combination can sometimes be the hardest part, but for those trucks at full lock into the baseplate, there were fewer issues than others who definitely had some kingpin movement.
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
That’s kind of what I’m scared with the 94a (aside from being scared of liking tighter trucks) that they’ll stiffen up even more
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
Put a mark on your kingpin bolt with a Sharpie and make sure they’re not self-loosening first. This is a known issue and might be why they feel like they’re not firming up/breaking in properly. I ended up using a regular baseplate/kingpin with my mids because the IKPs tend to loosen themselves.
I would keep tighten them and they would get a little tighter but still too surfy, I ended up taking the bushings off my old Indy’s and now we’re cooking thanks tho
In messing around with a lot of mids, if you can end up wtih the kingpin down at full lock in the baseplate, there is way less chance of it loosening off, as well as having the kingpin at the lowest point / giving more clearance.
Just getting whatever bushings right to fit that combination can sometimes be the hardest part, but for those trucks at full lock into the baseplate, there were fewer issues than others who definitely had some kingpin movement.
What do you mean by full lock? I usually try to get them tightened to where the bolts flush then I but the trucks back on the board and adjust as needed, haven’t had any issues yet and like I said am trying to avoid cranking them down.
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
Blue 92s, my dude. Blue 92s.
Been thinking about those too, I’ve seen some people say that they’re pretty much the same as the standard stock bushing tho?
Seems like bushings are more of a big deal on the mids for some reason cuz I have no problem with stocks on standards
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
That’s kind of what I’m scared with the 94a (aside from being scared of liking tighter trucks) that they’ll stiffen up even more
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So like back on Indy mids, anyone know how long it takes for them to break in? Or are they forever going to stay super loose? Bought some Indy 94a bushings but they’re too tight and the regular mids stay too surfy. I hate having to crank down the king pin pet peeve. I usually rock standards with the nut flush.
Put a mark on your kingpin bolt with a Sharpie and make sure they’re not self-loosening first. This is a known issue and might be why they feel like they’re not firming up/breaking in properly. I ended up using a regular baseplate/kingpin with my mids because the IKPs tend to loosen themselves.
I would keep tighten them and they would get a little tighter but still too surfy, I ended up taking the bushings off my old Indy’s and now we’re cooking thanks tho
In messing around with a lot of mids, if you can end up wtih the kingpin down at full lock in the baseplate, there is way less chance of it loosening off, as well as having the kingpin at the lowest point / giving more clearance.
Just getting whatever bushings right to fit that combination can sometimes be the hardest part, but for those trucks at full lock into the baseplate, there were fewer issues than others who definitely had some kingpin movement.
What do you mean by full lock? I usually try to get them tightened to where the bolts flush then I but the trucks back on the board and adjust as needed, haven’t had any issues yet and like I said am trying to avoid cranking them down.
Sorry, sometimes I don't explain things as well as I should.
Full lock on the inverted kingpins means the kingpins can only go in so far until they hit the end of the threaded part, which isn't that long really.
If you have some mids, you will notice it when you have them done up as tight as the kingpin will go, compared to having it a few threads out and the inverted kingpin itself sitting up some.
This post below from June 2021 has all the info, but even just looking at the second last pic, shows how much (or little) thread there is on the Indy kingpins, hence the full lock, fully locked into the baseplate, which also minimises movement of the kingpin itself.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQItVoZAUsb/?img_index=6
Text from that post:
Independent Inverted Kingpin Baseplate set, or IKP for short
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OCD Skateshop had 20% off trucks and wheels including these new Indy baseplate sets, so I got some as people had been asking about them. I also got some new Indy trucks and after they arrived today, I did a little swap and measure of the normal standard 149 trucks with the inverted kingpin baseplates, as per pictures provided, along with my personal preference set aside for this experiment (as I prefer normal standard kingpin assemblies to IKP versions).
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The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall. They sit a few mm below the standard kingpin at that height, but apart from that they are almost the same in terms of the baseplates, with maybe a slightly different angle of the kingpin to the normal ones, but it was minimal. The IKP has a special nut that sits inside the baseplate, so there is no way you will be taking these out to change them over, but you can always use any other brand kingpin to put into them.
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The other interesting thing was to see how much clearance there was on the IKP set compared to standards, as per the last pic showing the angle of them when sitting on the hanger and resting on the kingpin, with the IKP version definitely having a lower profile.
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Got blue 92s and now my mindys feel great. Started noticing that they were loosening on their own. Idk if any ones posted this already but has anyone tried the dooks shock pads? Wondering if that would help absorb all the rattling that’s making them loosen up.
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Got blue 92s and now my mindys feel great. Started noticing that they were loosening on their own. Idk if any ones posted this already but has anyone tried the dooks shock pads? Wondering if that would help absorb all the rattling that’s making them loosen up.
The loosening on their own is more due to the kingpin shaft moving every time you lean left or right, eg crooks, slappy or other hard movement tricks tend to make the kingpin move more than other more gentle skating.
What I have recommended is tighten the inverted kingpin right down until it cannot go in any more. It is not that far as the threads on the Indy kingpins are not very long anyway, but when it is right in at what I have called "full lock" then the kingpin doesn't move half as much as when it is anywhere else.
The more you loosen the trucks off from the full lock position, the more likely the kignpin will continue to move, which has then been discussed and even quite a few people putting in complaints or claims to NHS who distribute Indy who often don't reply with anything useful, or have said "Just use locktite" or something, as people on here have said in the past.
Using shock pads or similar things will lessen the vibrations through the deck but I don't think they will help much at all with the known issue of the kiingpin loosening off by itself.
It is a frustrating issue though, so trying anything and everything, as per the last 25 pages, you could see if any trial and error methods do work, which would always be welcomed here too.
Given some bushings will work better than others, in any normal kingpin trucks, you can adust the nut minimally here or there to get things just right, but with the inverted kingpin, it is harder to figure that out, often to the detriment of the kingpin loosening on its own or when you don't have it down as far, then you have less clearance as well.
See how much off full lock you have it and as the bushings wear in, you might find that they work well in full lock, so you might not have half as many issues with the kingpin moving.
Those blue bushings are good ones too - had the 92 duro bushings in my trucks for a long time.
* Replied before seeing we had talked about this before, but I am curious to hear how many turns out you are anyway.
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Got blue 92s and now my mindys feel great. Started noticing that they were loosening on their own. Idk if any ones posted this already but has anyone tried the dooks shock pads? Wondering if that would help absorb all the rattling that’s making them loosen up.
The loosening on their own is more due to the kingpin shaft moving every time you lean left or right, eg crooks, slappy or other hard movement tricks tend to make the kingpin move more than other more gentle skating.
What I have recommended is tighten the inverted kingpin right down until it cannot go in any more. It is not that far as the threads on the Indy kingpins are not very long anyway, but when it is right in at what I have called "full lock" then the kingpin doesn't move half as much as when it is anywhere else.
The more you loosen the trucks off from the full lock position, the more likely the kignpin will continue to move, which has then been discussed and even quite a few people putting in complaints or claims to NHS who distribute Indy who often don't reply with anything useful, or have said "Just use locktite" or something, as people on here have said in the past.
Using shock pads or similar things will lessen the vibrations through the deck but I don't think they will help much at all with the known issue of the kiingpin loosening off by itself.
It is a frustrating issue though, so trying anything and everything, as per the last 25 pages, you could see if any trial and error methods do work, which would always be welcomed here too.
Given some bushings will work better than others, in any normal kingpin trucks, you can adust the nut minimally here or there to get things just right, but with the inverted kingpin, it is harder to figure that out, often to the detriment of the kingpin loosening on its own or when you don't have it down as far, then you have less clearance as well.
See how much off full lock you have it and as the bushings wear in, you might find that they work well in full lock, so you might not have half as many issues with the kingpin moving.
Those blue bushings are good ones too - had the 92 duro bushings in my trucks for a long time.
* Replied before seeing we had talked about this before, but I am curious to hear how many turns out you are anyway.
Damn that’s annoying tho I was trying to avoid cranking them all the way down but guess ima have to do that, I finally understand thanks for that. The blue indy bushings do feel great but now I’m wondering if they’ll feel too tight when cranked all the way down. Thanks again
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Damn that’s annoying tho I was trying to avoid cranking them all the way down but guess ima have to do that, I finally understand thanks for that. The blue indy bushings do feel great but now I’m wondering if they’ll feel too tight when cranked all the way down. Thanks again
I was surprised (as were some others) when they realised that they were almost "fully cranked down" anyway, compared to where they usually had the kingpin.
Being inverted and unable to see where it sits or how far out it sits, count how many turns down you do it to be fully in, so at least you can easily wind it back out some anyway to where you do have it right now.
With the stock orange bushings, a few people I know who had the mids wanted the trucks tighter than what those bushings would allow, but when they tried harder bushings, at first they had to leave the kingpin out some, then as the bushings softened up and compressed they ended up pretty much at full lock anyway.
It is not an exact science, but more so just trying to get things to where they will work the best, so even with different seasons, warmer weather can have the 92 duro bushings, or colder weather can have the stock 90 duro bushings, with both still working well.
Of course this can be a pain in the ass with needing to check or change out bushings depending on the day, but at least it is an option, or more so finding some middle ground, such as it might be, but for me, using different bushings combinations is not an option - I can never run an orange top on a blue bottom, but what I have often done, as others have done here too is cut down the top bushing, or just sand it on griptape or similar if you only need a slight improvement in the tightness.
A few thoughts anyway.
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Damn that’s annoying tho I was trying to avoid cranking them all the way down but guess ima have to do that, I finally understand thanks for that. The blue indy bushings do feel great but now I’m wondering if they’ll feel too tight when cranked all the way down. Thanks again
I was surprised (as were some others) when they realised that they were almost "fully cranked down" anyway, compared to where they usually had the kingpin.
Being inverted and unable to see where it sits or how far out it sits, count how many turns down you do it to be fully in, so at least you can easily wind it back out some anyway to where you do have it right now.
With the stock orange bushings, a few people I know who had the mids wanted the trucks tighter than what those bushings would allow, but when they tried harder bushings, at first they had to leave the kingpin out some, then as the bushings softened up and compressed they ended up pretty much at full lock anyway.
It is not an exact science, but more so just trying to get things to where they will work the best, so even with different seasons, warmer weather can have the 92 duro bushings, or colder weather can have the stock 90 duro bushings, with both still working well.
Of course this can be a pain in the ass with needing to check or change out bushings depending on the day, but at least it is an option, or more so finding some middle ground, such as it might be, but for me, using different bushings combinations is not an option - I can never run an orange top on a blue bottom, but what I have often done, as others have done here too is cut down the top bushing, or just sand it on griptape or similar if you only need a slight improvement in the tightness.
A few thoughts anyway.
I usually make sure they’re flush when I set em up and work from there and with the blues they’re still flush might have to change back to the stocks. Just wanted to skate some mid trucks that turn but hate the inverted king pin for that. If I can find some royals 139 I might just jump ship.
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I usually make sure they’re flush when I set em up and work from there and with the blues they’re still flush might have to change back to the stocks. Just wanted to skate some mid trucks that turn but hate the inverted king pin for that. If I can find some royals 139 I might just jump ship.
Might be a bit hard to see from the second pic in the Instagram post I did (back up this same page) but the overall height of bushing and yoke to the bottom of the standard kingpin and inverted kingpin are much the same, with the inverted kingpin sitting lower into the truck baseplate.
Did you check to see how many turns you currently are away from having it all the way down?
This was an interesting thing on other setups that people were skating, most being almost at if not completely at full lock in with the inverted kingpin without them even realising it.
Just curious anyway.
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I usually make sure they’re flush when I set em up and work from there and with the blues they’re still flush might have to change back to the stocks. Just wanted to skate some mid trucks that turn but hate the inverted king pin for that. If I can find some royals 139 I might just jump ship.
Might be a bit hard to see from the second pic in the Instagram post I did (back up this same page) but the overall height of bushing and yoke to the bottom of the standard kingpin and inverted kingpin are much the same, with the inverted kingpin sitting lower into the truck baseplate.
Did you check to see how many turns you currently are away from having it all the way down?
This was an interesting thing on other setups that people were skating, most being almost at if not completely at full lock in with the inverted kingpin without them even realising it.
Just curious anyway.
With the regular stock bushings I wasn’t too deep but they weren’t comfortable yet. With the blues they’re like perfectly flush pretty much. The back truck is the only one that loosens up not the front tho. The thought of cranking them down makes me feel like it’ll fuck up the bushing faster but since the inverted king pin is weird I guess it’s fine. I OCD and check em once they start feeling good to see where I’m at lol. When I had the 94 hard my back truck was way looser than the front when I checked in the end but I’m now realizing it probably just loosened up
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I have a theory a harder bushing/tighter truck will loosen up faster with the IKP. Mostly because when compressed the force differential between non compressed and compressed will be highest, thus providing more oscillation in force on the nylock. When I first started with Mids I was riding my trucks considerably looser than when I finished.
When Indy sent me warranty plates I put the same bushings in to the same KP depth when viewed from the bottom of the plate and it took only 2 days until it started loosening. I then switched to blue bushings and out Loctite blue on, which worked for a bit, then the rear got so bad it would loosen about a half turn in 5min
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I have a theory a harder bushing/tighter truck will loosen up faster with the IKP. Mostly because when compressed the force differential between non compressed and compressed will be highest, thus providing more oscillation in force on the nylock. When I first started with Mids I was riding my trucks considerably looser than when I finished .
When Indy sent me warranty plates I put the same bushings in to the same KP depth when viewed from the bottom of the plate and it took only 2 days until it started loosening. I then switched to blue bushings and out Loctite blue on, which worked for a bit, then the rear got so bad it would loosen about a half turn in 5min
This makes me feel like their is no hope for Indy mids :/
Your theory would make sense tho. I had tried the Teflon tape but that shit disappeared and disintegrated cuz I haven’t seen where the residue landed lol
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I never had any issue with my forged mindys/royals or slappys loosening *that I could tell* - I also fux with my trucks depending on where I skate/what I am skating...I'll tighten for manuals, loosen for slappies/bowls.
With Slappys (which DOESN'T use the special nut combo) I didn’t locktite them until the second time I took them apart (to add a flat top washer) and never fucked with them (even marked the pin) and they never loosened. Pretty sure since they use a standard nut they wouldn't need the loctite.
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I really wish they would’ve nailed it with the Indy mid. These would be my truck of choice if it weren’t for the issues I’ve read about on here. I miss Indy’s, they’re just too tall for me. Even the forged ones.
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I really wish they would’ve nailed it with the Indy mid. These would be my truck of choice if it weren’t for the issues I’ve read about on here. I miss Indy’s, they’re just too tall for me. Even the forged ones.
They’re starting to become such a hassle to make em just work it’s starting to feel not worth it
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I usually make sure they’re flush when I set em up and work from there and with the blues they’re still flush might have to change back to the stocks. Just wanted to skate some mid trucks that turn but hate the inverted king pin for that. If I can find some royals 139 I might just jump ship.
Might be a bit hard to see from the second pic in the Instagram post I did (back up this same page) but the overall height of bushing and yoke to the bottom of the standard kingpin and inverted kingpin are much the same, with the inverted kingpin sitting lower into the truck baseplate.
Did you check to see how many turns you currently are away from having it all the way down?
This was an interesting thing on other setups that people were skating, most being almost at if not completely at full lock in with the inverted kingpin without them even realising it.
Just curious anyway.
Nah I didn’t but I threw the stick ones back in and spun em till it didn’t wanna turn no more and it was about 9 turns from start
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Ok slap I need some assistance. I like Indy trucks..however standards are too high. I got the mid forged 149 so the height is 50.5 mm. I also have a pair of 149 FH that I feel are too high. Can I take the hangar from the FH and put it on the mindy FH baseplate? That way I can be a little higher? But not quite the height of a standard FH.
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You’re doing to much.
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Ok slap I need some assistance. I like Indy trucks..however standards are too high. I got the mid forged 149 so the height is 50.5 mm. I also have a pair of 149 FH that I feel are too high. Can I take the hangar from the FH and put it on the mindy FH baseplate? That way I can be a little higher? But not quite the height of a standard FH.
Buy regular 52mm indy mids...or Royals for a 52mm...or Cast Thunders....or Forged Ventures
Forged hollow indy are 53.5mm that's too high? It's the perfect height 'regular' indy imo
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Have you tried smaller wheels?
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With which trucks?
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Ok slap I need some assistance. I like Indy trucks..however standards are too high. I got the mid forged 149 so the height is 50.5 mm. I also have a pair of 149 FH that I feel are too high. Can I take the hangar from the FH and put it on the mindy FH baseplate? That way I can be a little higher? But not quite the height of a standard FH.
The height difference between mid and any of the regular trucks is in the hanger, so the forged baseplates should be the same height on any truck. Then the mid hangers will all be one height, which equates to 52mm on cast baseplates or lower at 50.5mm on forged. The regular hangers, be it standard, hollow or ti axle are all the same height, which equates to 55mm on cast plates and 53.5mm on forged baseplates.
If anything you might want to put the hollow mid hangers on a cast baseplate, which you might not have, to make them 52mm in height, otherwise with what you have, they are going to be 50.5 on the mid hangers or 53.5 on the 149s forged hollows, regardless of which baseplate.
At least that is how I read it.
Did you have any other normal / standard / cast baseplates to put the mid hangers on?
That would give you the 52mm height you might be wanting, if the 53.5 trucks felt too tall.
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^^you are picking up what I am putting down and I appreciate the thought you put into your posts. I do not have a standard/cast baseplate. I think at this point I really need to just try and make the 50.5mm height work. I have had a bout of truck madness and it seems like the more I switch something the less progress I make in terms of both skating and getting the feel that I want.
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Anyone by chance skate both Indy forged hollow mids and Ace AF1 lows? I’m skating the AF1 lows now and really enjoying them. Of course gear madness takes over and I’m thinking the forged hollow mids might be the most comparable truck. Just curious how they compare from anyones experience…
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I’ve skated them both…..very different….mindys are way less wiggly and will prolly feel heftier…..more stable. Have you thought about a plain ole thunder too? Why do you want to change…..
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I’ve skated them both…..very different….mindys are way less wiggly and will prolly feel heftier…..more stable. Have you thought about a plain ole thunder too? Why do you want to change…..
I’m not a fan of Thunders. I really like low trucks and I really like trucks that don’t push out the wheelbase a lot. The Ace lows have been great, just exploring other options that fit those two criteria…
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yes, I guess if you care about the wheelbase, I'd say Mindy and regular Aces are the next best thing. The Indy will feel a lot more stable...I don't think they'll feel as low. The wheelbase will probably feel longer for sure vs. the Aces, but IMO Indy's feel really proportionally correct. The Ace lows, felt like the nose was too long to me.
That said....take this with a grain of salt...I skate ventures....
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I’ve skated them both…..very different….mindys are way less wiggly and will prolly feel heftier…..more stable. Have you thought about a plain ole thunder too? Why do you want to change…..
I’m not a fan of Thunders. I really like low trucks and I really like trucks that don’t push out the wheelbase a lot. The Ace lows have been great, just exploring other options that fit those two criteria…
Have or would you consider trying Mini-logo trucks? I've swapped out the pivot cups and bushings for indy hards 94a and found them to be pretty decent trucks that are both low and don't seem to push the wheelbase out loads. I don't really do lots of grinds though so can't vouch for them in that regard.
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Here's a question that I've been wondering for you indy guys, (sorry if I sound really stupid asking this) would I be right in thinking you could use independent mid hangers with a standard non-ikp baseplate? Would the only issue be reduced kingpin clearance? Has anyone tried it?
I was looking at some old stage 8 indys and the kingpin clearance doesn't look amazing, I started thinking that you could potentially just use a standard baseplate with a mids hanger (perhaps for those that don't do tons of grinds?).
I'm sure its something that has been answered in previous posts but honestly I haven't read through all pages of this thread.
PS I'm a Venture guy but do like the way indy mids look, especially in the smaller sizes.
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Here's a question that I've been wondering for you indy guys, (sorry if I sound really stupid asking this) would I be right in thinking you could use independent mid hangers with a standard non-ikp baseplate? Would the only issue be reduced kingpin clearance? Has anyone tried it?
I was looking at some old stage 8 indys and the kingpin clearance doesn't look amazing, I started thinking that you could potentially just use a standard baseplate with a mids hanger (perhaps for those that don't do tons of grinds?).
I'm sure its something that has been answered in previous posts but honestly I haven't read through all pages of this thread.
PS I'm a Venture guy but do like the way indy mids look, especially in the smaller sizes.
You can, but the hanger yoke hole doesn't line up 1:1 (mine didn't anyway; same for putting the regs hanger on a the mid cast plate (not the stand alone IKP plate)...no idea if this is still the case.
Pretty sure I've got a post in this thread about it.
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I’ve skated them both…..very different….mindys are way less wiggly and will prolly feel heftier…..more stable. Have you thought about a plain ole thunder too? Why do you want to change…..
I’m not a fan of Thunders. I really like low trucks and I really like trucks that don’t push out the wheelbase a lot. The Ace lows have been great, just exploring other options that fit those two criteria…
Have or would you consider trying Mini-logo trucks? I've swapped out the pivot cups and bushings for indy hards 94a and found them to be pretty decent trucks that are both low and don't seem to push the wheelbase out loads. I don't really do lots of grinds though so can't vouch for them in that regard.
I have...I'm a pretty strong supporter of them...I just don't skate them....fair ball though, they should be in the same conversation of low truck options....
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I’ve skated them both…..very different….mindys are way less wiggly and will prolly feel heftier…..more stable. Have you thought about a plain ole thunder too? Why do you want to change…..
I’m not a fan of Thunders. I really like low trucks and I really like trucks that don’t push out the wheelbase a lot. The Ace lows have been great, just exploring other options that fit those two criteria…
Have or would you consider trying Mini-logo trucks? I've swapped out the pivot cups and bushings for indy hards 94a and found them to be pretty decent trucks that are both low and don't seem to push the wheelbase out loads. I don't really do lots of grinds though so can't vouch for them in that regard.
I have...I'm a pretty strong supporter of them...I just don't skate them....fair ball though, they should be in the same conversation of low truck options....
Occasionally I'll throw on some 8.38 ML; they're some of the lowest of the low trucks, so be warned (but still turn great).
They're light, turn and grind just as well as anything out there... Scrubs will hate on them because they're ML and they haven't even ridden them. KP clearance could be better.
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Here's a question that I've been wondering for you indy guys, (sorry if I sound really stupid asking this) would I be right in thinking you could use independent mid hangers with a standard non-ikp baseplate? Would the only issue be reduced kingpin clearance? Has anyone tried it?
I was looking at some old stage 8 indys and the kingpin clearance doesn't look amazing, I started thinking that you could potentially just use a standard baseplate with a mids hanger (perhaps for those that don't do tons of grinds?).
I'm sure its something that has been answered in previous posts but honestly I haven't read through all pages of this thread.
PS I'm a Venture guy but do like the way indy mids look, especially in the smaller sizes.
You can, but the hanger yoke hole doesn't line up 1:1 (mine didn't anyway; same for putting the regs hanger on a the mid cast plate (not the stand alone IKP plate)...no idea if this is still the case.
Pretty sure I've got a post in this thread about it.
Thats really interesting, cheers for the insight. It's a shame they don't quite line up/are fully compatible as it might of been a quick fix for those with the wobbly ikp issue.
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I’ve skated them both…..very different….mindys are way less wiggly and will prolly feel heftier…..more stable. Have you thought about a plain ole thunder too? Why do you want to change…..
I’m not a fan of Thunders. I really like low trucks and I really like trucks that don’t push out the wheelbase a lot. The Ace lows have been great, just exploring other options that fit those two criteria…
Have or would you consider trying Mini-logo trucks? I've swapped out the pivot cups and bushings for indy hards 94a and found them to be pretty decent trucks that are both low and don't seem to push the wheelbase out loads. I don't really do lots of grinds though so can't vouch for them in that regard.
I have...I'm a pretty strong supporter of them...I just don't skate them....fair ball though, they should be in the same conversation of low truck options....
Occasionally I'll throw on some 8.38 ML; they're some of the lowest of the low trucks, so be warned (but still turn great).
They're light, turn and grind just as well as anything out there... Scrubs will hate on them because they're ML and they haven't even ridden them. KP clearance could be better.
Nice one for the replies, its amazing what effect branding can have our buying decisions. I agree the mini-logos are decent, I tried mine with risers and larger (56mm-59mm) wheels and thought the turning was good, with the pivot cups and bushings changed I found them quite controllable with a good return to centre if that make sense.
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Here's a question that I've been wondering for you indy guys, (sorry if I sound really stupid asking this) would I be right in thinking you could use independent mid hangers with a standard non-ikp baseplate? Would the only issue be reduced kingpin clearance? Has anyone tried it?
I was looking at some old stage 8 indys and the kingpin clearance doesn't look amazing, I started thinking that you could potentially just use a standard baseplate with a mids hanger (perhaps for those that don't do tons of grinds?).
I'm sure its something that has been answered in previous posts but honestly I haven't read through all pages of this thread.
PS I'm a Venture guy but do like the way indy mids look, especially in the smaller sizes.
You can, but the hanger yoke hole doesn't line up 1:1 (mine didn't anyway; same for putting the regs hanger on a the mid cast plate (not the stand alone IKP plate)...no idea if this is still the case.
Pretty sure I've got a post in this thread about it.
Thats really interesting, cheers for the insight. It's a shame they don't quite line up/are fully compatible as it might of been a quick fix for those with the wobbly ikp issue.
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I’ve skated them both…..very different….mindys are way less wiggly and will prolly feel heftier…..more stable. Have you thought about a plain ole thunder too? Why do you want to change…..
I’m not a fan of Thunders. I really like low trucks and I really like trucks that don’t push out the wheelbase a lot. The Ace lows have been great, just exploring other options that fit those two criteria…
Have or would you consider trying Mini-logo trucks? I've swapped out the pivot cups and bushings for indy hards 94a and found them to be pretty decent trucks that are both low and don't seem to push the wheelbase out loads. I don't really do lots of grinds though so can't vouch for them in that regard.
I have...I'm a pretty strong supporter of them...I just don't skate them....fair ball though, they should be in the same conversation of low truck options....
Occasionally I'll throw on some 8.38 ML; they're some of the lowest of the low trucks, so be warned (but still turn great).
They're light, turn and grind just as well as anything out there... Scrubs will hate on them because they're ML and they haven't even ridden them. KP clearance could be better.
Nice one for the replies, its amazing what effect branding can have our buying decisions. I agree the mini-logos are decent, I tried mine with risers and larger (56mm-59mm) wheels and thought the turning was good, with the pivot cups and bushings changed I found them quite controllable with a good return to centre if that make sense.
I like their bushings (the top is ever so slightly lower profile) but their pivot cups are hard as hell. Truck looks way better now that they removed the ML on the hanger, not gonna lie.
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I’ve been running 8.38 ML hangers on Indy mids the past month with a bones bottom and ML top bushing combo. It allows for the kingpin nut to be tightened down completely and desired stability/looseness. It’s a back up setup that I’m preferring to ride at the moment.
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Here's a question that I've been wondering for you indy guys, (sorry if I sound really stupid asking this) would I be right in thinking you could use independent mid hangers with a standard non-ikp baseplate? Would the only issue be reduced kingpin clearance? Has anyone tried it?
I was looking at some old stage 8 indys and the kingpin clearance doesn't look amazing, I started thinking that you could potentially just use a standard baseplate with a mids hanger (perhaps for those that don't do tons of grinds?).
I'm sure its something that has been answered in previous posts but honestly I haven't read through all pages of this thread.
PS I'm a Venture guy but do like the way indy mids look, especially in the smaller sizes.
You can, but the hanger yoke hole doesn't line up 1:1 (mine didn't anyway; same for putting the regs hanger on a the mid cast plate (not the stand alone IKP plate)...no idea if this is still the case.
Pretty sure I've got a post in this thread about it.
Thats really interesting, cheers for the insight. It's a shame they don't quite line up/are fully compatible as it might of been a quick fix for those with the wobbly ikp issue.
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I’ve skated them both…..very different….mindys are way less wiggly and will prolly feel heftier…..more stable. Have you thought about a plain ole thunder too? Why do you want to change…..
I’m not a fan of Thunders. I really like low trucks and I really like trucks that don’t push out the wheelbase a lot. The Ace lows have been great, just exploring other options that fit those two criteria…
Have or would you consider trying Mini-logo trucks? I've swapped out the pivot cups and bushings for indy hards 94a and found them to be pretty decent trucks that are both low and don't seem to push the wheelbase out loads. I don't really do lots of grinds though so can't vouch for them in that regard.
I have...I'm a pretty strong supporter of them...I just don't skate them....fair ball though, they should be in the same conversation of low truck options....
Occasionally I'll throw on some 8.38 ML; they're some of the lowest of the low trucks, so be warned (but still turn great).
They're light, turn and grind just as well as anything out there... Scrubs will hate on them because they're ML and they haven't even ridden them. KP clearance could be better.
Nice one for the replies, its amazing what effect branding can have our buying decisions. I agree the mini-logos are decent, I tried mine with risers and larger (56mm-59mm) wheels and thought the turning was good, with the pivot cups and bushings changed I found them quite controllable with a good return to centre if that make sense.
I like their bushings (the top is ever so slightly lower profile) but their pivot cups are hard as hell. Truck looks way better now that they removed the ML on the hanger, not gonna lie.
Yes I remember removing those ML pivot cups (I think they were like a white hard plastic), the stock bushings seemed too soft for me but good quality none the less.
I’ve been running 8.38 ML hangers on Indy mids the past month with a bones bottom and ML top bushing combo. It allows for the kingpin nut to be tightened down completely and desired stability/looseness. It’s a back up setup that I’m preferring to ride at the moment.
Interesting combination, its good to try mixing things up to find what works for you.
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Skate warehouse gots royals for 30$ out the door for anyone that wants that mid but tired of dealing with Indy’s shitty kingpin.
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Hello, I'm trying to make decision for my little skater. Would Mid Forged Hollow or Forged Titanium be better choice in 139 size?
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Mid forged are 50.5mm tall
Ti are forged plates but sit at 53.5mm tall
What size wheels are you planning on using?
Do you have to have Indy?
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Mid forged are 50.5mm tall
Ti are forged plates but sit at 53.5mm tall
What size wheels are you planning on using?
Do you have to have Indy?
No I don't Indy was recommendent along with thunders by her instructor and since I dont have prior experience skating I'm making gear decisions based on forums opinions. To get full story My four year old (tall and posture of 7-8 year old kids) started skating around 5 months ago I got her ripndip 8 inch board (she loves cats) independent forged hollow trucks and bones formula x 53 mm wheels. Since soon after starting she wanted take lessons 2 times a week and is making great progress so I decided to try skateboarding too and while buying gear i can up little one specs a little. Already went with SC VX Everslick 8 inch board (asta pantera this time :)) tought about changing trucks to titanium (as direct upgrade) or forged hollow Mids with 52mm wheels (it's hard decision for me with that that's why i made account here - instructor said it's no difference between low and high trucks) or ?
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Mid forged are 50.5mm tall
Ti are forged plates but sit at 53.5mm tall
What size wheels are you planning on using?
Do you have to have Indy?
No I don't Indy was recommendent along with thunders by her instructor and since I dont have prior experience skating I'm making gear decisions based on forums opinions. To get full story My four year old (tall and posture of 7-8 year old kids) started skating around 5 months ago I got her ripndip 8 inch board (she loves cats) independent forged hollow trucks and bones formula x 53 mm wheels. Since soon after starting she wanted take lessons 2 times a week and is making great progress so I decided to try skateboarding too and while buying gear i can up little one specs a little. Already went with SC VX Everslick 8 inch board (asta pantera this time :)) tought about changing trucks to titanium (as direct upgrade) or forged hollow Mids with 52mm wheels (it's hard decision for me with that that's why i made account here - instructor said it's no difference between low and high trucks) or ?
One of the most interesting things I have seen with people in that kind of role is how they will often recommend the biest / highest price / premium products for kids who are often nowhere near the ability level to really appreciate or fully use the product to the potential that a pro skateboarder or even seasoned individual would, no matter what age.
If you have the funds, sure go for whatever works - my choice would be regular / hollow / ti axle normal height trucks over any version of mids any day - but overall board size, width, dimensions can also be a very important thing.
Some juniors will excel with a slightly bigger board, some not do so well, but a lighter board will often be key in being able to do some things more easily. Most learners will do just fine on any board, from a decent budget complete, right up to a top of the line, highest price pro setup, so quite often, getting the most fancy and expensive gear out there is not necessary.
Are they skating at a local park, or in a Woodward style training facility and what sort of things are they doing - more just rolling up and down stuff, or actually doing tricks and learning more technical things, lip tricks, airs, or whatever like that?
Does the person recommending the products also work in a shop / get any kickbacks from selling or recommending products?
Is your four year old learning and progressing past what their current setup does for them, really?
* It is a big difference between heights of trucks, to someone who knows how to use them, so that comment alone about "no difference" gives me a big red flag right there.
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One of the most interesting things I have seen with people in that kind of role is how they will often recommend the biest / highest price / premium products for kids who are often nowhere near the ability level to really appreciate or fully use the product to the potential that a pro skateboarder or even seasoned individual would, no matter what age.
If you have the funds, sure go for whatever works - my choice would be regular / hollow / ti axle normal height trucks over any version of mids any day - but overall board size, width, dimensions can also be a very important thing.
Recommended was good quality complete. I went with custom skateboard on my own accord - ability to get preffered skateboard / grip tape graphic was most important factor in this decision. I'm well aware kid won't appreciate or fully use the product. And since I already went with custom skateboard this opened trucks question - lighter indy? mids? even lighter thunders? Trucks are still kind of black box for me. Since right now i'm already buying skateboard for myself I started wordering if lower trucks or lighter would be more comfortable for kid.
Are they skating at a local park, or in a Woodward style training facility and what sort of things are they doing - more just rolling up and down stuff, or actually doing tricks and learning more technical things, lip tricks, airs, or whatever like that?
If weather allows it then they are skating at local park. They are progressing towards doing tricks. Right now she is confident with simpler stuff riding, turning, tic-tacs and drop-ins.
Does the person recommending the products also work in a shop / get any kickbacks from selling or recommending products?
No I'm ordering everything from internet.
Is your four year old learning and progressing past what their current setup does for them, really?
No way :).
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Is your four year old learning and progressing past what their current setup does for them, really?
Thanks for the replies - it really does help.
Might have come across a bit strong and didn't mean to but at least just the whole thing of getting out and rolling around and learning - putting in the time and effort, in as safe and easy environment as possible - is the main thing.
I had dealt with various types of running lessons for well over twenty something years, skate workshops for local groups during school holidays, on my own or in groups with other instructors, doing organised lessons, even working in specific environments with "wonder kids" and others who literally learned anything and everything I could teach them and far surpassed my own skill level, but the one and most important thing to me is that whoever wants to learn can do so and enjoy it, no matter their age, ability or anything else and I prefer to do that on my own terms, no timeframes, no organised lessons, no classes, etc.
It is so good just to get out and see people learning and progressing though, so that is what keeps me happy in times when I might be a bit lacking in anything that I can really do, or compared to what I used to be able to do.
Now with regard to product, the differences in even a single mm or two can be huge in skateboarding, so with heights of trucks, that really comes into play a lot, which is why if you have Indy forged hollow trucks in the right width, I would stick with those. Wheel size is second to that, so anything from 52 - 54 mm is common, a little bigger for more skatepark / bowl / transition skating, but I think you should be ok with the Bones 53 mm wheels. Bones wheels variants or Spitfire Formula Four wheels are the two main wheel brands, with everything else below that. Softer wheels will usually allow for less slip and a bit more grip on any surface, but most are around 99 to 101 duro and are normal, 97 a little softer, anything less is considered maybe too soft for regular skating, although the Bones / Powell formulas like Dragons are said to be really good in 93 duro too.
Boards, bearings, bolts, grip or anything else are down to personal opinion, sure some might be better than others, but for the most part, the different concaves on various board brands will provide a better experience, or a not so good one, if they are too steep, too flat, etc.
You will probably get a lot of different opinions on different brands, but for the most part the more well known tried and tested brands are going to work, more so than just the local guy starting his own company and trying to sell product at the skatepark, but again, that is up to the individual whatever they choose to buy and ride.
Sorry that probably is a bit too much, but I do tend to go a bit too far with regard to skateboard product.
Always happy to help anyway.
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Is your four year old learning and progressing past what their current setup does for them, really?
Thanks for the replies - it really does help.
Might have come across a bit strong and didn't mean to but at least just the whole thing of getting out and rolling around and learning - putting in the time and effort, in as safe and easy environment as possible - is the main thing.
I had dealt with various types of running lessons for well over twenty something years, skate workshops for local groups during school holidays, on my own or in groups with other instructors, doing organised lessons, even working in specific environments with "wonder kids" and others who literally learned anything and everything I could teach them and far surpassed my own skill level, but the one and most important thing to me is that whoever wants to learn can do so and enjoy it, no matter their age, ability or anything else and I prefer to do that on my own terms, no timeframes, no organised lessons, no classes, etc.
It is so good just to get out and see people learning and progressing though, so that is what keeps me happy in times when I might be a bit lacking in anything that I can really do, or compared to what I used to be able to do.
Now with regard to product, the differences in even a single mm or two can be huge in skateboarding, so with heights of trucks, that really comes into play a lot, which is why if you have Indy forged hollow trucks in the right width, I would stick with those. Wheel size is second to that, so anything from 52 - 54 mm is common, a little bigger for more skatepark / bowl / transition skating, but I think you should be ok with the Bones 53 mm wheels. Bones wheels variants or Spitfire Formula Four wheels are the two main wheel brands, with everything else below that. Softer wheels will usually allow for less slip and a bit more grip on any surface, but most are around 99 to 101 duro and are normal, 97 a little softer, anything less is considered maybe too soft for regular skating, although the Bones / Powell formulas like Dragons are said to be really good in 93 duro too.
Boards, bearings, bolts, grip or anything else are down to personal opinion, sure some might be better than others, but for the most part, the different concaves on various board brands will provide a better experience, or a not so good one, if they are too steep, too flat, etc.
You will probably get a lot of different opinions on different brands, but for the most part the more well known tried and tested brands are going to work, more so than just the local guy starting his own company and trying to sell product at the skatepark, but again, that is up to the individual whatever they choose to buy and ride.
Sorry that probably is a bit too much, but I do tend to go a bit too far with regard to skateboard product.
Always happy to help anyway.
Thanks for all advice. This really opened my eyes. forged hollow trucks in the right width, I would stick with those
- since I need another pair of trucks anyway I went ahead and ordered 147 forged thunders 49mm height - just to try something different and see which one will be more comfortable. Will 52mm wheels be alright with these or i need to get smaller?
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Always happy to help anyway.
Thanks for all advice. This really opened my eyes. Expand Quote
forged hollow trucks in the right width, I would stick with those
Try them as is first with whatever wheels you have there, but you can always put a riser under them to bring them up a bit more, rather than getting smaller wheels, which will not roll as fast and get stuck on anything way more easily.
Most Thunder trucks I find are more comfortable for me with a piece of rubber I cut out, a bike tube is thinner and works too, but I have some offcuts that are about about 2 mm in height I use for cast plates or even a pre made 1/8" riser for lower trucks otherwise I tend to wheelbite a whole lot more. Lighter bodies would find it easier - seen a set of 145s with 56 mm wheels and zero wheelbite on a kids board the other day.
Just down to how much they turn or lean, so for a small or lightweight body, that is almost none.
If turning becomes an issue too, eg they can't turn enough, take off the bottom washer and try that, before buying softer or other bushings. Free and easy to put the washer back on if they are too loose, but I have done that a lot for kids over the years too.