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Skateboarding => Skate Questions => Topic started by: ondeezyst on December 26, 2020, 04:23:29 PM
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As the subject says I'm looking for the best bondo type material used to fix cracks fast, also what type of concrete should i use to get close to a skatepark finish? after you rub brick a spot what is the spray you use thats like a sealant? pics would be greatly appreciated
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Bondo-Home-Solutions-1-qt-All-Purpose-Putty-20052/202077805
Here’s the bondo we’ve used.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-2-oz-SteelStik-8267/300136541
JB Weld or Gorilla epoxy lasts longer than bondo but much more expensive. It really depends on what you are doing.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/stains-and-finishes/varnish/1615095
You have to brush this on but is way more durable, hard and fast. Spray lacquer gets grinded through almost immediately.
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I’ve used almost all clear coats out there and TBH it doesn’t really matter that much. Both spray and roll on work fine and each have pro’s/cons. Which ever you use just be sure to put several coats and allow appropriate dry time.
Below is a thread discussing different clear coats and methods for making things grind. Some good suggestions in there.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=114106.msg3444304#msg3444304
Idk what your budget is and this is a luxury, but if you can afford it a cordless angle grinder and a diamond grinding cup. BUT if you don’t already own cordless tools and batteries it gets expensive.
I got about 50-60 ft of a ledge near the house grinded smooth and clear coated in 1 hour & 15 mins. Which is a plus if the spot your fixing is in a high traffic/populated area.
You can forgo the angle grinder and just use a rub brick, just takes longer and is very tiring if you got a lot of ledge to smooth out, especially solo.
For cracks on the ground bondo works great and lasts a long time if done right. I’ve seen a lot of people use bondo to fill gaps and cracks in ledges but TBH if it’s going to get grinded heavily it won’t last long it’s not very hard. Steel stick is great for a spot that has a chunk missing or a small crack and holds up to grinding really well, but is expensive for large chunks/cracks.
Regarding bondo, it makes a huge fucking mess. Wear rubber gloves, old clothes and make sure you have something to mix it up in i buy disposable paint roller trays, something with a lip helps but you can use anything. Duct tape out where your bonding, get some painters sticks to scoop the shit out and mix with and some plastic putty knives to lay/spread it out how you need it.
Regarding concrete, it has nothing to do really with the type and everything to do with your technique. Just google how to get a smooth Finnish on concrete and study up. Your first time is not going to be as good as you want, but keep trying and practicing and you’ll improve. I’m still not as good as some buddies but I’ve gotten decent.
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There are so many opinions that it is hard to pin down the best. It also depends on what you are trying to build or repair
One thing that I'd like to say about bondo is that it is formulated to be protected by paint.
So if you want your repair or crack fill to last longer you have to sand prime sand topcoat
I have over 20 years experience of working with bondo.
If you are a true DIYer and you've been building spots and you have all the tools the next thing to get is this
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51c8hC7s26L._AC_SX425_.jpg)
Get the same brand as your cordless drill so the batteries are interchangeable
Also spend a couple of bucks more on your caulking gun
For DIY videos I have to say that I like what Zach Dowdy has been doing. He's not a builder so he doesn't have the tools or all of the knowledge but he has spots throughout San Diego that have lasted for years. In his videos he shows his mistakes so it's more relatable to non builders and it shows that anyone can build a sic spot even someone with no experience
The best way to build a spot is with experience and the best way to get experience is to build a spot
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MiwyEwqykg
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I’ve used almost all clear coats out there and TBH it doesn’t really matter that much. Both spray and roll on work fine and each have pro’s/cons. Which ever you use just be sure to put several coats and allow appropriate dry time.
Below is a thread discussing different clear coats and methods for making things grind. Some good suggestions in there.
https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=114106.msg3444304#msg3444304
Idk what your budget is and this is a luxury, but if you can afford it a cordless angle grinder and a diamond grinding cup. BUT if you don’t already own cordless tools and batteries it gets expensive.
I got about 50-60 ft of a ledge near the house grinded smooth and clear coated in 1 hour & 15 mins. Which is a plus if the spot your fixing is in a high traffic/populated area.
You can forgo the angle grinder and just use a rub brick, just takes longer and is very tiring if you got a lot of ledge to smooth out, especially solo.
For cracks on the ground bondo works great and lasts a long time if done right. I’ve seen a lot of people use bondo to fill gaps and cracks in ledges but TBH if it’s going to get grinded heavily it won’t last long it’s not very hard. Steel stick is great for a spot that has a chunk missing or a small crack and holds up to grinding really well, but is expensive for large chunks/cracks.
Regarding bondo, it makes a huge fucking mess. Wear rubber gloves, old clothes and make sure you have something to mix it up in i buy disposable paint roller trays, something with a lip helps but you can use anything. Duct tape out where your bonding, get some painters sticks to scoop the shit out and mix with and some plastic putty knives to lay/spread it out how you need it.
Regarding concrete, it has nothing to do really with the type and everything to do with your technique. Just google how to get a smooth Finnish on concrete and study up. Your first time is not going to be as good as you want, but keep trying and practicing and you’ll improve. I’m still not as good as some buddies but I’ve gotten decent.
This might be a dumb question, but what are steel sticks and can I get anything similar in Germany? I usually use concrete to fill cracks. Which is sometimes a bit of a struggle ^^ depends on the area.
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https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200836440_200836440?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Construction%20%3E%20Caulk%20%26%20Adhesives%20%2B%20Sealants&utm_campaign=JB%20Weld&utm_content=54350&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3Y-ABhCnARIsAKYDH7vjpxH5RezVisCo4q_bBUjNFapNaX3Oqj0vozlHkjxV9_J6jKq-ogMaAkJGEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Steel stick is a putty reinforced with steel. It’s a JB weld product idk if it’s sold in Germany. If not there’s probably something similar. It hardens very fast and for little chunks or cracks in ledges it’s great.
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This might be a dumb question, but what are steel sticks and can I get anything similar in Germany? I usually use concrete to fill cracks. Which is sometimes a bit of a struggle ^^ depends on the area.
(https://www.weicon.de/media/image/80/0f/a7/pg_10537057_200x200.jpg)
https://www.weicon.de/en/products/weicon-chemie/adhesives-and-sealants/2-component-adhesives-and-sealants/epoxy-resin-systems/repair-sticks/
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Aaah I understand. Thanks a lot pals. :)
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I tried Steel Sticks last night on a lcoal ledge. So impressed with the application, was really easy and the final result looks great. Will skate it tomorrow night.
Needed 2 tubes to get it done, and did it over 2 days. 25$ well spent (I hope it lasts!).
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Steel Stix didnt work out as well as I thought it would. Maybe I didnt mix it up enough, but it was kinda soft, so we ripped it out and used this stuff instead. Other had used it in the past and it works fine. Dries hard as a rock. Dries out white though.
Cheaper too, by 2-3$.
https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-fixit-stick-epoxy-putty-1829259701
Ill take a pic next time and repost.
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Steel Stix didnt work out as well as I thought it would. Maybe I didnt mix it up enough, but it was kinda soft, so we ripped it out and used this stuff instead. Other had used it in the past and it works fine. Dries hard as a rock. Dries out white though.
Cheaper too, by 2-3$.
https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-fixit-stick-epoxy-putty-1829259701
Ill take a pic next time and repost.
Weird that’s never been my experience with steel stick it always hardens up straight away. Whatever works either is better than bondo.
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odd indeed
was a 2 layer /coat approach, maybe that had something to do with it.
I must have done something incorrectly, seems to work for everyone else.
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Slight tangent.. but with a cheap hi-viz and a semi-plausible fake permit the world is your oyster my friend
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
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Heres an Irish link..
https://www.screwfix.ie/p/marshalltown-20-grit-rub-brick-152-x-76mm/600jf
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whats the best way to pop a couple parking blocks out of the way? should i try to crack them with a sledge and chop the anchors or do you think i could pry them up? they are spiked into asphalt so im leaning towards the sledge cause it seems like the prying is easier on the rebar ones.
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whats the best way to pop a couple parking blocks out of the way? should i try to crack them with a sledge and chop the anchors or do you think i could pry them up? they are spiked into asphalt so im leaning towards the sledge cause it seems like the prying is easier on the rebar ones.
When you say spiked in, is there like an anchor with a head holding it down into the ground? Or is it just rebar in the holes? If it’s just rebar you can just pull it up with a pry bar and move it. If it’s anchored in, I would try to pry it up like a 1/4” with a probar, put something to keep it in place, then use a sawzall to cut the anchors out. You could use a hack saw if you don’t have a sawzall it’ll just take longer.
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whats the best way to pop a couple parking blocks out of the way? should i try to crack them with a sledge and chop the anchors or do you think i could pry them up? they are spiked into asphalt so im leaning towards the sledge cause it seems like the prying is easier on the rebar ones.
When you say spiked in, is there like an anchor with a head holding it down into the ground? Or is it just rebar in the holes? If it’s just rebar you can just pull it up with a pry bar and move it. If it’s anchored in, I would try to pry it up like a 1/4” with a probar, put something to keep it in place, then use a sawzall to cut the anchors out. You could use a hack saw if you don’t have a sawzall it’ll just take longer.
thanks for the reply
not rebar, it has a head but i didnt want to call in an anchor cause its not threaded and doesnt seem like it has a sleeve but i could be using the wrong words. theyre pretty old so it seems like an old way of installing them but it's like this (https://ibb.co/gV6x7vp) through the top, into asphalt. unlike the one pictured these ones seem to be iron, like long ass railroad spikes, which is why i was leaning toward cracking the old concrete rather than cutting them. idk how deep they go so im thinking ill just go reef on them with a probar and see what happens as a first step.
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whats the best way to pop a couple parking blocks out of the way? should i try to crack them with a sledge and chop the anchors or do you think i could pry them up? they are spiked into asphalt so im leaning towards the sledge cause it seems like the prying is easier on the rebar ones.
When you say spiked in, is there like an anchor with a head holding it down into the ground? Or is it just rebar in the holes? If it’s just rebar you can just pull it up with a pry bar and move it. If it’s anchored in, I would try to pry it up like a 1/4” with a probar, put something to keep it in place, then use a sawzall to cut the anchors out. You could use a hack saw if you don’t have a sawzall it’ll just take longer.
not rebar, it has a head but i didnt want to call in an anchor cause its not threaded and doesnt seem like it has a sleeve but i could be using the wrong words. theyre pretty old so it seems like an old way of installing them but it's like this (https://ibb.co/gV6x7vp) through the top, into asphalt. unlike the one pictured these ones seem to be iron, like long ass railroad spikes, which is why i was leaning toward cracking the old concrete rather than cutting them. idk how deep they go so im thinking ill just go reef on them with a probar and see what happens as a first step.
You may just be able to pry them up, assuming they aren't threaded. Good luck, keep us posted.
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
I also haven't found a rub brick here in Germany. I just used a stone for that rubbing. Preferably a harder material as the curb/ledge you want to prepare.
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
I’m in the states so don’t know if they exist over your way, but a regular brick(you know red masonry brick) will work just fine. Wear a glove since they don’t come with a handle. After a few feet or rubbing your hands will thank you.
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If you were gonna get one skin get an angle grinder cause you can put a cup stone, cut off disc and a grinding wheel on it. I’m not trying to be an asshole but the rub brick is primitive as shit why bother
You have the ability to cut through metal with a cut off disc, you can deburr metal shite with the wheel and you can cupstone concrete properly in seconds
The Milwaukee ones are good for the coin and every man should own at least one angle grinder anyway
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Heres an Irish link..
https://www.screwfix.ie/p/marshalltown-20-grit-rub-brick-152-x-76mm/600jf
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
I also haven't found a rub brick here in Germany. I just used a stone for that rubbing. Preferably a harder material as the curb/ledge you want to prepare.
Thanks for the info all... I guess I'll go at the curb with a red brick and see what happens. At least I know I'm not totally crazy because I can find these things easily in the states but here in europe the only one I've found is the Carhartt WIP collaboration one and it's like some hype product fake supreme style.
If you were gonna get one skin get an angle grinder cause you can put a cup stone, cut off disc and a grinding wheel on it. I’m not trying to be an asshole but the rub brick is primitive as shit why bother
You have the ability to cut through metal with a cut off disc, you can deburr metal shite with the wheel and you can cupstone concrete properly in seconds
The Milwaukee ones are good for the coin and every man should own at least one angle grinder anyway
Sorry, but I can't go at the curb out in front of the local primary school with an angle grinder. The people at the school would not be happy, not to mention the dozens of nosey elderly people who live across the street.
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
maybe just look for something like "Kachelrutscher", "Kachelschleifer", "Abrichtstein", "Rutscherstein" at your local hardware store.
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
@fs1/2cab
check this link https://www.baywa-baustoffe.de/b2c/de/bauger%C3%A4te-und-werkzeuge/bauwerkzeuge-handwerkzeuge/reibebretter-egalisierungsbretter/marshalltown-betonschleifer---ziegelreibe/p-000000000001823576/
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
check this link https://www.baywa-baustoffe.de/b2c/de/bauger%C3%A4te-und-werkzeuge/bauwerkzeuge-handwerkzeuge/reibebretter-egalisierungsbretter/marshalltown-betonschleifer---ziegelreibe/p-000000000001823576/
Woah. Thanks so much Frank.
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
check this link https://www.baywa-baustoffe.de/b2c/de/bauger%C3%A4te-und-werkzeuge/bauwerkzeuge-handwerkzeuge/reibebretter-egalisierungsbretter/marshalltown-betonschleifer---ziegelreibe/p-000000000001823576/
Woah. Thanks so much Frank.
you're welcome!
this shop has lots of stuff like enamel clear coat, laquers, different types of bondo-like putties, basically everything but rubbricks, straight concrete and repair sticks. it's mainly a autorepair shop.
https://www.nonpaints.com/de/
if you want real jb weld in germany you can/have to order from amazon, but it doesn't seem more expensive than the same stuff from german or eu brands. uhu and pattex seem to have similar types of two component adhesives.
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
check this link https://www.baywa-baustoffe.de/b2c/de/bauger%C3%A4te-und-werkzeuge/bauwerkzeuge-handwerkzeuge/reibebretter-egalisierungsbretter/marshalltown-betonschleifer---ziegelreibe/p-000000000001823576/
Woah. Thanks so much Frank.
this shop has lots of stuff like enamel clear coat, laquers, different types of bondo-like putties, basically everything but rubbricks, straight concrete and repair sticks. it's mainly a autorepair shop.
https://www.nonpaints.com/de/
if you want real jb weld in germany you can/have to order from amazon, but it doesn't seem more expensive than the same stuff from german or eu brands. uhu and pattex seem to have similar types of two component adhesives.
You're da best mate.
As stupid as it may sound.. I had a lot of success with filling small gaps between curbs with cigarette butts, melted wax and clear spraypaint. ^^
Might have to fix my Ikea curbs with concrete in a few weeks.
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Any europals got a link (Leroy Merlin, etc) for a rub brick here? I’m fucking stumped and I’ve asked people at various hardware shops, both mom’n’pop and chain and also some big construction warehouse lot type places, and they all look at me like I’m an alien.
Do these things exist here? I’m probably asking in the wrong way or in the wrong places.
check this link https://www.baywa-baustoffe.de/b2c/de/bauger%C3%A4te-und-werkzeuge/bauwerkzeuge-handwerkzeuge/reibebretter-egalisierungsbretter/marshalltown-betonschleifer---ziegelreibe/p-000000000001823576/
Woah. Thanks so much Frank.
this shop has lots of stuff like enamel clear coat, laquers, different types of bondo-like putties, basically everything but rubbricks, straight concrete and repair sticks. it's mainly a autorepair shop.
https://www.nonpaints.com/de/
if you want real jb weld in germany you can/have to order from amazon, but it doesn't seem more expensive than the same stuff from german or eu brands. uhu and pattex seem to have similar types of two component adhesives.
You're da best mate.
As stupid as it may sound.. I had a lot of success with filling small gaps between curbs with cigarette butts, melted wax and clear spraypaint. ^^
Might have to fix my Ikea curbs with concrete in a few weeks.
that's actually genius
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What to use to fill a crack between blocks of curb...?
my front truck hit the crack perfectly last week which then led to my head hitting the ground shortly thereafter. I've been afraid to skate this curb ever since.
theres about a 1-1.5cm gap between the 2 blocks of curb and it's just a vast crevasse that spans the height of the curb. I think bondo won't work for this type of crack but I'd really rather avoid getting the concrete going just for this. Maybe fill with dirt then put bondo over it? Or will that be too weak?
(https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/kerbs/transition_01.jpg)
The gap looks like this but this is just an image I found on the internet. My curb is more square and is backed by pavers/sidewalk.
I've only ever filled ground cracks with bondo, nothing this deep.
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What to use to fill a crack between blocks of curb...?
my front truck hit the crack perfectly last week which then led to my head hitting the ground shortly thereafter. I've been afraid to skate this curb ever since.
theres about a 1-1.5cm gap between the 2 blocks of curb and it's just a vast crevasse that spans the height of the curb. I think bondo won't work for this type of crack but I'd really rather avoid getting the concrete going just for this. Maybe fill with dirt then put bondo over it? Or will that be too weak?
(https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/kerbs/transition_01.jpg)
The gap looks like this but this is just an image I found on the internet. My curb is more square and is backed by pavers/sidewalk.
I've only ever filled ground cracks with bondo, nothing this deep.
yeah, i would just fill it up maybe with wet sand mixed with some gravel so the bondo doesn't drip down. or maybe you could even use some cardboard to fill it. pretty much anything that lets you get a smooth finish with the bondo. and i would go hard on the bondo to make sure it's enough and then rub it down after it hardened to level everything again.
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What to use to fill a crack between blocks of curb...?
my front truck hit the crack perfectly last week which then led to my head hitting the ground shortly thereafter. I've been afraid to skate this curb ever since.
theres about a 1-1.5cm gap between the 2 blocks of curb and it's just a vast crevasse that spans the height of the curb. I think bondo won't work for this type of crack but I'd really rather avoid getting the concrete going just for this. Maybe fill with dirt then put bondo over it? Or will that be too weak?
(https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/kerbs/transition_01.jpg)
The gap looks like this but this is just an image I found on the internet. My curb is more square and is backed by pavers/sidewalk.
I've only ever filled ground cracks with bondo, nothing this deep.
Cool thanks!
Will grinding on bondo just make it break out super quick, or is bondo hard enough to take that type of abuse?
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What to use to fill a crack between blocks of curb...?
my front truck hit the crack perfectly last week which then led to my head hitting the ground shortly thereafter. I've been afraid to skate this curb ever since.
theres about a 1-1.5cm gap between the 2 blocks of curb and it's just a vast crevasse that spans the height of the curb. I think bondo won't work for this type of crack but I'd really rather avoid getting the concrete going just for this. Maybe fill with dirt then put bondo over it? Or will that be too weak?
(https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/kerbs/transition_01.jpg)
The gap looks like this but this is just an image I found on the internet. My curb is more square and is backed by pavers/sidewalk.
I've only ever filled ground cracks with bondo, nothing this deep.
Cool thanks!
Will grinding on bondo just make it break out super quick, or is bondo hard enough to take that type of abuse?
you can sand it down with griptape for sure, not sure about a rubbrick, i've never done that, but i guess if you let it harden out more than just half an hour that might work. a rubbrick might roughen up the bondos surface tho. i'd finish the bondo part with griptape or sanding paper for sure to give it a smooth finish. i mean you should have a scraper anyways to get it as level as possible, basically just make sure to use enough so you rather have some surplus bondo over the seam than too little, but we're talking about like not even a millimeter topping the surface maybe. so it shouldn't take long to sand down with some regular grip tape. but you'd probably be fine just putting bondo over it. that stuff hardens real quick, so it's not even likely it will just spill into the crack.
sry if my answer is a bit incoherent, i haven't slept well the last few days and i think i need a nap.
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What to use to fill a crack between blocks of curb...?
my front truck hit the crack perfectly last week which then led to my head hitting the ground shortly thereafter. I've been afraid to skate this curb ever since.
theres about a 1-1.5cm gap between the 2 blocks of curb and it's just a vast crevasse that spans the height of the curb. I think bondo won't work for this type of crack but I'd really rather avoid getting the concrete going just for this. Maybe fill with dirt then put bondo over it? Or will that be too weak?
(https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/kerbs/transition_01.jpg)
The gap looks like this but this is just an image I found on the internet. My curb is more square and is backed by pavers/sidewalk.
I've only ever filled ground cracks with bondo, nothing this deep.
Cool thanks!
Will grinding on bondo just make it break out super quick, or is bondo hard enough to take that type of abuse?
If you read back a bit in the thread there are some good suggestions for bondo alternatives. Steel stick is a good one if your in the US (maybe elsewhere?) and you wouldn’t really need to fill the whole crack in. There’s also a few similar products suggested from folks in Europe.
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What to use to fill a crack between blocks of curb...?
my front truck hit the crack perfectly last week which then led to my head hitting the ground shortly thereafter. I've been afraid to skate this curb ever since.
theres about a 1-1.5cm gap between the 2 blocks of curb and it's just a vast crevasse that spans the height of the curb. I think bondo won't work for this type of crack but I'd really rather avoid getting the concrete going just for this. Maybe fill with dirt then put bondo over it? Or will that be too weak?
(https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/kerbs/transition_01.jpg)
The gap looks like this but this is just an image I found on the internet. My curb is more square and is backed by pavers/sidewalk.
I've only ever filled ground cracks with bondo, nothing this deep.
Cool thanks!
Will grinding on bondo just make it break out super quick, or is bondo hard enough to take that type of abuse?
If you read back a bit in the thread there are some good suggestions for bondo alternatives. Steel stick is a good one if your in the US (maybe elsewhere?) and you wouldn’t really need to fill the whole crack in. There’s also a few similar products suggested from folks in Europe.
The cheapest method would probably be concrete and it will last a long time.
Bondo and Steel Stix I personally find a bit too expensive.
But that's onto you.
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What to use to fill a crack between blocks of curb...?
my front truck hit the crack perfectly last week which then led to my head hitting the ground shortly thereafter. I've been afraid to skate this curb ever since.
theres about a 1-1.5cm gap between the 2 blocks of curb and it's just a vast crevasse that spans the height of the curb. I think bondo won't work for this type of crack but I'd really rather avoid getting the concrete going just for this. Maybe fill with dirt then put bondo over it? Or will that be too weak?
(https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/kerbs/transition_01.jpg)
The gap looks like this but this is just an image I found on the internet. My curb is more square and is backed by pavers/sidewalk.
I've only ever filled ground cracks with bondo, nothing this deep.
Cool thanks!
Will grinding on bondo just make it break out super quick, or is bondo hard enough to take that type of abuse?
If you read back a bit in the thread there are some good suggestions for bondo alternatives. Steel stick is a good one if your in the US (maybe elsewhere?) and you wouldn’t really need to fill the whole crack in. There’s also a few similar products suggested from folks in Europe.
The cheapest method would probably be concrete and it will last a long time.
Bondo and Steel Stix I personally find a bit too expensive.
But that's onto you.
Thanks everyone for the tips.
If I lived close to the curb and could do it on the weekend I would... but it's my lunchbreak curb at work and I only have about an hour break which is a little tight timewise for a concrete patch job with clean up and trying to not get concrete all over myself. I suppose I could do it after work since it's staying light later now, but I'll save that as a last resort.
I will try the steel stick as a quick/easy fix, seems stronger and less messy than bondo, I watched a few youtube videos.
Bonus, the first search research was this store with a hilarious name:
(https://imgur.com/PgyOnpU.jpg)
(I'll probably just stop at Leroy Merlin to buy the stuff though.)
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europe is so cool, damn
antigrippanti
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Slight tangent.. but with a cheap hi-viz and a semi-plausible fake permit the world is your oyster my friend
True that. I work in the movie business and have gotten many filming permits. Real and fake. Most major cities have a film office. Contact them or go to their website to get a copy of a sample permit. Photoshop that shit and make it YOURS. If you get questioned at a spot have confidence, speak the language and show that filming permit you have! Most people see some "official document" and will walk away. At least enough for you to get a few more tries. Pro Tip: put your homies phone number on the "permit" so if the person/cop calls the number your homie can have your back and say its legit.
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^ Thanks for the info Mr. Evans
I've been sleeping on this thread for a while I need to come back more often. I tryed finding a rubbrick on the web in Europe for a day and I guess I was over it so bad that I never came back to say "try some 60 grit epoxy coated sand paper"
https://vimeo.com/38442249
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I broke my wrist at that first metal bank spot they skated. The metal is very slick and the run up sucks so bad.
Yeah that metal bank is treacherous and has taken many people out. The key to making it less slippery is to pour some pop on it. Sorry to hear about the injury.
i keep thinking about this post and i feel like it belongs here. im definitely going to try this on some shit