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Skateboarding => Skate Questions => Topic started by: rawbertson. on May 17, 2021, 04:27:48 PM
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I noticed that fresh painted curbs seem to grind naturally even if they are super crusty + esepcially with some wax. this seems liek an easy way to freshen up a shitty ledge spot etc. has anyone ever tried this and can they recommend a certain type of paint?
Thanks
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https://youtu.be/YptauiVhj2w
They use a clear, spray-on Rustoleum lacquer, I think if its painted, repaint that somebitch to a similar color, let dry, & spray lacquer.
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I think a lot of people have had good results with brushing stuff on......clear coat. Less of a heat target...
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I agree to everything posted so far. Sanding the ledge first is important. I have had the best results with clear lacquer (resin based).
This one works great (I'm German so you might have to find a equivalent)
https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Kunstharz-Klarlack-seidenmatt-750-ml/5244791/artikel.html
Resin based lacquer is more expensive than other lacquers and it needs a bit more time to dry fully.
You can use other lacquers as well. I recommend you look at the can to see if the lacquer can sustain scratches ("kratz und stoßfest"). Regular paint or water based lacquer doesn't relly work at all for ledges.
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I agree to everything posted so far. Sanding the ledge first is important. I have had the best results with clear lacquer (resin based).
This one works great (I'm German so you might have to find a equivalent)
https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Kunstharz-Klarlack-seidenmatt-750-ml/5244791/artikel.html
Resin based lacquer is more expensive than other lacquers and it needs a bit more time to dry fully.
You can use other lacquers as well. I recommend you look at the can to see if the lacquer can sustain scratches ("kratz und stoßfest"). Regular paint or water based lacquer doesn't relly work at all for ledges.
vielen dank,
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/watco-all-in-one-lacquer-colour-light-tint-base-947-ml/1001304764
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rust-oleum-specialty-lacquer-in-high-gloss-312-g/1000120299
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/watco-crystal-clear-lacquer-for-interior-wood-oil-based-in-gloss-3-78-l/1001153929
will any of these do?
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Expand Quote
I agree to everything posted so far. Sanding the ledge first is important. I have had the best results with clear lacquer (resin based).
This one works great (I'm German so you might have to find a equivalent)
https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Kunstharz-Klarlack-seidenmatt-750-ml/5244791/artikel.html
Resin based lacquer is more expensive than other lacquers and it needs a bit more time to dry fully.
You can use other lacquers as well. I recommend you look at the can to see if the lacquer can sustain scratches ("kratz und stoßfest"). Regular paint or water based lacquer doesn't relly work at all for ledges.
vielen dank,
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/watco-all-in-one-lacquer-colour-light-tint-base-947-ml/1001304764
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rust-oleum-specialty-lacquer-in-high-gloss-312-g/1000120299
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/watco-crystal-clear-lacquer-for-interior-wood-oil-based-in-gloss-3-78-l/1001153929
will any of these do?
I can't open the link. I have no idea why.
Just going from the names in the links: Other slappes have recommended rustolem. So that should work. I don't think oil based would work very well. You'll want a coat of solid hard lacquer. No idea about that watco stuff.
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As others have said, rub brick the ledge vigorously, sweep off as much concrete dust as you can (the dust fucks up how the clear coat cures), and spray this stuff on it [multiple passes is best]:
(https://target.scene7.com/is/image/Target/GUEST_6744163d-3c54-48d3-968c-f4d19a9cdd21?wid=488&hei=488&fmt=pjpeg)
Let it dry for at least 24 hours and you now have a buttery ledge!
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has anyone ever used an angle grinder to speed up the rub brick process?
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Probably not the best idea if you're trying to keep things on the DL, but if you're somehow able to hide what you're doing, I don't see how it could hurt.
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Watch that video of Rhino prepping the curb for Ace (Independent's YT channel).
He suggests brushing on a concrete sealer as aerosol cans put heat on you as it looks like spray paint and people automatically assume you're vandalizing.
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has anyone ever used an angle grinder to speed up the rub brick process?
Yes, if you have one it does the same thing, but 10x faster highly recommend. Buy one of these, I've had the same one going on 8 months and use it quite frequently. They are worth the investment over the composite ones, they wear out really quick.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-diamond-turbo-cup-wheel-for-angle-grinders-61419.html
Edit: As far as paint goes I have to agree that clear coat is the way to go. It grinds good and is less noticeable than paint. Just about any clear coat/laquer will do just put a few thick coats on. I also want to give the sealer a try, plan to buy some this week.
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Expand Quote
I agree to everything posted so far. Sanding the ledge first is important. I have had the best results with clear lacquer (resin based).
This one works great (I'm German so you might have to find a equivalent)
https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Kunstharz-Klarlack-seidenmatt-750-ml/5244791/artikel.html
Resin based lacquer is more expensive than other lacquers and it needs a bit more time to dry fully.
You can use other lacquers as well. I recommend you look at the can to see if the lacquer can sustain scratches ("kratz und stoßfest"). Regular paint or water based lacquer doesn't relly work at all for ledges.
vielen dank,
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/watco-all-in-one-lacquer-colour-light-tint-base-947-ml/1001304764
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rust-oleum-specialty-lacquer-in-high-gloss-312-g/1000120299
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/watco-crystal-clear-lacquer-for-interior-wood-oil-based-in-gloss-3-78-l/1001153929
will any of these do?
Yeah man, I had good results with the second one. If you try the first or third one let me know how it goes, as there is a spot I am reluctant to hit up with a spray can.
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https://youtu.be/YptauiVhj2w
They use a clear, spray-on Rustoleum lacquer, I think if its painted, repaint that somebitch to a similar color, let dry, & spray lacquer.
i followed this video as closely as i could. i went fucking hard in the rub brick yesterday. went back a 2nd time and there was a workman truck there. i was like "fuck! does he know? is he going to sandblast it or something?" its such an abandoned building ass spot. the ground isnt even that good but its hard to find something with good ground no one cares about.
went back this morning and coast was clear. went even harder on the rub brick and it felt like it was getting pretty damn smooth and white as fuck like few cm buildup of dust. swept swept swept. saw some OPP Cop Cruisers drive by but i ducked down! No one saw me! It was like back behind some buildings and its close to the highway. OK ledge is looking money. just laid down 1/2 a can of that spray on lacquer and dipped to work. Might let it cure 24 hrs just so its $$ and come back and wax it tomorrow AM
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nice. Post some footy! i love lacquered ledges.
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Rained last night :( the ledge was able to sit about ~12 hours before the rain came. i noticed all the water is beading off of it very nicely. it doesnt look like it will rain the rest of the day so might be able to get some wax on it before i go home. hopefully dont need to re apply the lacquer now
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I had a similar experience with a curb I prepped last year. One thick coat and I had to dip, rained about 12 hours later. It was fine. It still is! I skated it yesterday. I believe!
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Rained last night :( the ledge was able to sit about ~12 hours before the rain came. i noticed all the water is beading off of it very nicely. it doesnt look like it will rain the rest of the day so might be able to get some wax on it before i go home. hopefully dont need to re apply the lacquer now
@rawbertson. Keep us posted? If the lacquer didn't cure right, can you rub brick or angle grind it off & start anew? Or is it fucked?
Im going out to get a curb right tomorrow. Lemme ask y'all:
AFTER completely rub bricking/angle grinding but BEFORE lacquering, do you think its worth completely cleaning that dust up out of the area you're lacquering? Like sweep, water & towel clean? I know that takes more time for it dry...is that overkill? Its gonna be 80+ here tomorrow so the time is prime!
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Wow... All I have to say is just WOW
I cant believe i have been skating 20+ years and did not know about this
You can tell when you are putting the wax on after the spray lacquer, that its just going to fucking zoom
I think the rain actually helped clean it up tbh. but yeah 12 hrs sitting was fine then rain going on it before the wax went on. it all good. that lacuqer aint goin NOWERE dude. that shit is on there GOOD. i think you really only need like 30 min according to the video but 24 hrs is recommended.
To answer the questoin of the guy above ^ I swept like crazy made sure every leaf is gone etc. as much as i can given the time i had
i didnt get everything there was def still some dust left over but i basically went to the point where it was like ok im brooming brooming brooming but really not even making much progress
I sanded 1x, swept then came back a 2nd time and sanded 2 more times til i couldnt sand anymore just to give you an idea. this spot was fucking ROUGH too you can kinda see next to it its all rusted out and shit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkpRJCPqHzE
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you can see there is a much taller ledge in the background, that may be my next target...
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Well done dude! Looks great!
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I’ve become an advocate for brush-on lacquer. Draws way less attention and it’s easier to get an even coat. When I’ve sprayed lacquer on in the past it always ends up a bit uneven. Either way, a round of rub brick, two coats of lacquer, and a little bit of wax will make almost anything grind real nice.
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I’ve become an advocate for brush-on lacquer. Draws way less attention and it’s easier to get an even coat. When I’ve sprayed lacquer on in the past it always ends up a bit uneven. Either way, a round of rub brick, two coats of lacquer, and a little bit of wax will make almost anything grind real nice.
what brand/type are you using?
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For anyone interested just put this on a ledge and shit goes. Just one coat, looks weird when applying but dries clear.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sakrete-Cure-N-Seal-128-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Masonry-Sealer-for-Concrete/3506628
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For anyone interested just put this on a ledge and shit goes. Just one coat, looks weird when applying but dries clear.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sakrete-Cure-N-Seal-128-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Masonry-Sealer-for-Concrete/3506628
+1
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For anyone interested just put this on a ledge and shit goes. Just one coat, looks weird when applying but dries clear.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sakrete-Cure-N-Seal-128-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Masonry-Sealer-for-Concrete/3506628
hmm I cant seem to get that exact product in Canada;
https://www.lowes.ca/product/masonry-sealers/acrylic-cure-seal-128-fl-oz-acrylic-masonry-sealer-for-concrete-2639
is this basically the same thing? I see a bunch of options for concrete sealers
https://www.lowes.ca/search?query=masonry+sealers&filters=parent_category_codes_sm%3DA2533&sort=score%3Adesc&tab=products-tab
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Spot #2 :
https://www.instagram.com/p/CP-6MrJh9-6/?utm_medium=copy_link
shit is sliding like ice.
so 1 can of that spray lacquer lasted me those 2 ledges and they slide really well.
i have to say i am really happy with the result from spray lacquer and the fact i dont need paint brushes or anytihng is kinda convenient for me
i think i am like obsessed with this shit like this is all i think about now is how to build spots like what spot am i gonna do next... cause my skating has gone to shit but this is the best thing i can do to keep it going for the next guys!
Photo below was taken right after i did the spray (zero time curing). this ledge was absolute garbage before the rub brick. honeslty never thought it would have been skateable.
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I have been eyeing up a spot that is in a dilapidated/vacated shopping mall:
(https://i.ibb.co/JyVsbSk/20210608-143310-1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/m0XbpC0/20210611-114635-1.jpg)
I put hella work in removing branches, digging out the root-filled dirt to make it a double sider, and bondo'ing where I could. My biggest issue is I have to park & carry every tool/etc in and not look like a jackass. I plan to make the whole area a spot if I don't kicked out. My town has 0 curb spots, so now we have .5!
I totally get what you mean by getting a high off this. "I feel like a jewel thief, ya know" - BA. I bet that Sakrete stuff GOES and saves money on cans of spray lacquer when you do this at more than just a single spot.
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For filling cracks I used JB weld and its super easy....it's just putty you roll around in your hands (with gloves on) stick it in the crack, leave it....I just waxed over it and it held up.
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For filling cracks I used JB weld and its super easy....it's just putty you roll around in your hands (with gloves on) stick it in the crack, leave it....I just waxed over it and it held up.
Can you use regular JB weld? the gooey one that you mix with a stick?
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I'm not sure but probably...I just got the putty because it's super easy to apply. That said it doesn't necessarily go very far....6" of putty for about $10....
Super discreet though....
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Expand Quote
For anyone interested just put this on a ledge and shit goes. Just one coat, looks weird when applying but dries clear.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sakrete-Cure-N-Seal-128-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Masonry-Sealer-for-Concrete/3506628
hmm I cant seem to get that exact product in Canada;
https://www.lowes.ca/product/masonry-sealers/acrylic-cure-seal-128-fl-oz-acrylic-masonry-sealer-for-concrete-2639
is this basically the same thing? I see a bunch of options for concrete sealers
https://www.lowes.ca/search?query=masonry+sealers&filters=parent_category_codes_sm%3DA2533&sort=score%3Adesc&tab=products-tab
Yeah looks to be the same just quickcretes product vs sakrete should do the job the same. So far I like it better than spray, goes a lot further and I can apply it quicker with better control.
Spots are looking good man! I get a deep sense of satisfaction from making a new spot, especially one I’m stoked to skate. Love to see others out there doing the same. Here’s the ledges I did recently super fun grind like ice.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQFZ-PhBKGF/?utm_medium=copy_link
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For filling cracks I used JB weld and its super easy....it's just putty you roll around in your hands (with gloves on) stick it in the crack, leave it....I just waxed over it and it held up.
Can you use regular JB weld? the gooey one that you mix with a stick?
I’ve never used the OG JB weld for cracks but I think I remember seeing Zachd Dowdy use it in one of his vids. I recommend the JB weld steel stick Putty though, it’s the same price, goes further and is easier to apply.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/J-B-WELD-Steelstick-Gray-Steel-Epoxy-Construction-Adhesive-Actual-Net-Contents-2-Fl-Oz/3389024
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For filling cracks I used JB weld and its super easy....it's just putty you roll around in your hands (with gloves on) stick it in the crack, leave it....I just waxed over it and it held up.
shit is basically like metal on the spot , good idea
theres lot of other 2 part epoxies on the market that are cheaper, JB weld is kinda unique though in that it basically hardens up like a bolt basically lol i am sure 3m, Molycon or whoever makes a giant tub sized equivalent. theres definitely a market for this stuff lol
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I use the putty and yeah, it's not the best value to like do a whole section. I,used it to fill cracks on a ledge so there was no seem. This kid here though had used this gnarly two part expoxy to do a big section ie 8' and it pretty much made the most pitted sidewalk ledge into granite......the jb works well for me...guys that don't want to get too serious.....
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Red
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Expand Quote
For filling cracks I used JB weld and its super easy....it's just putty you roll around in your hands (with gloves on) stick it in the crack, leave it....I just waxed over it and it held up.
shit is basically like metal on the spot , good idea
theres lot of other 2 part epoxies on the market that are cheaper, JB weld is kinda unique though in that it basically hardens up like a bolt basically lol i am sure 3m, Molycon or whoever makes a giant tub sized equivalent. theres definitely a market for this stuff lol
JB Weld is best imo. Two part epoxy generally bonds stronger than putty, but the JB putty is good for nooks on a ledge/curb. JB may be a little pricier upfront but it’ll often last longest.
This dude ProjectFarm does really good, non-bias experiments/comparisons with products, here’s his putty video.
https://youtu.be/R3r0UZ7txzs (https://youtu.be/R3r0UZ7txzs)
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just did another one, grinds amazing!!
(https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/831212046469038122/888075035808530472/brickedledge.jpg?width=769&height=577)