Slap MessageBoards

General Discussion => WHATEVER => Topic started by: Yushin Okami on July 16, 2014, 10:15:06 AM

Title: Surfing
Post by: Yushin Okami on July 16, 2014, 10:15:06 AM
I realize this is pretty specific to pals who live near a coast but any surfers in here? I only first tried it a couple of years ago but loved it immediately. If I have a bad day skating I'm usually pretty bummed but a bad day surfing just means I spent the day at the beach.

Plus, the photography is rad 

(http://vito.es/blog/wp-content/uploads/2006/11/Newport%20Beach%20Surf%20at%20Sunset.jpg)

(http://stwww.surfingmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/MorganMaassen_loaded06.jpg)

(http://cdn.business.transworld.net/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/2014/01/SRF0213P_JON_033.jpg)

*This thread is for locals only
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SHAWN COMBOVER on July 16, 2014, 10:24:50 AM
SLAP SURF MAG BRUH. I GET WET CONSTANTLY. ::) ::) ::)






















 :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: IanBZHD on July 16, 2014, 11:42:25 AM
I feel like there is a stigma attached to relating skateboarding to surfing, Unless your from the West Coast it seems like people don't respect surfing. Fortunately, being from Chicago, I've surfed a few times in California and I loved it. I can't really do it, and struggle to stand up on a wave, but it was amazing how much strength and balance it takes.

I frequently watch surfing videos and love the photography and videography attached to it as you said, its a great way to cool off and relax after a hard day.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SHAWN COMBOVER on July 16, 2014, 11:43:55 AM
or go skate and then take a shower.
just saying man.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: IanBZHD on July 16, 2014, 11:50:12 AM
Sometimes I like to do several activities per day before I sit on the couch and smoke weed all night. Weird.

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SHAWN COMBOVER on July 16, 2014, 11:55:39 AM
 i know right? at least you are staying active. respect.
even if you're on a surfbort.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: dillanharp on July 16, 2014, 03:05:33 PM
I've lived on the West Coast my entire life, and the answer is no, not ever.
Because
(http://www.whalewatchsa.com/wp-content/gallery/species-great-white-shark/gansbaai-great-white-sharks-4.jpg)
I don't care what the odds are, the odds are 0 if I take myself out of the equation.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bea! on July 16, 2014, 03:30:18 PM
I've lived on the West Coast my entire life, and the answer is no, not ever.
Because
(http://www.whalewatchsa.com/wp-content/gallery/species-great-white-shark/gansbaai-great-white-sharks-4.jpg)
I don't care what the odds are, the odds are 0 if I take myself out of the equation.

this 1000% and i use that exact same "odds" sentence every time.

surfing is rad, but i saw Jaws at too young of an age to get past it.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Tracer on July 16, 2014, 03:40:20 PM
Can't be serious afraid to go in the ocean? Better take Zumba classes you morons.

I've had to kick away eels and barracudas going for me on diving missions, even saw a hammerhead in the distance. They dont want to eat you there's plenty of fish in the sea that don't contain GMO and preservatives. Your biggest worry out there should be coral reefs/ rocks.

Surfing is insanely fun and good for you. I learned in Hawaii with the most perfect waves and warm water, still took me a few days to hit real breaks with some swag. Getting up is easy but that's not surfing. There's something great about riding something completely natural

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Wizard Fight on July 16, 2014, 04:09:55 PM

I've had to kick away eels and barracudas going for me on diving missions, even saw a hammerhead in the distance.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: landCow on July 16, 2014, 06:06:59 PM
Expand Quote
I've lived on the West Coast my entire life, and the answer is no, not ever.
Because
(http://www.whalewatchsa.com/wp-content/gallery/species-great-white-shark/gansbaai-great-white-sharks-4.jpg)
I don't care what the odds are, the odds are 0 if I take myself out of the equation.
[close]

this 1000% and i use that exact same "odds" sentence every time.

surfing is rad, but i saw Jaws at too young of an age to get past it.

Ha this is pretty much where i'm at too. All the statistics about the likelihood of a shark attack don't mean a thing because sharks are probably the closest thing I have to a phobia. It's irrational, but I don't give a fuck.

I will still go in the ocean but I am paranoid as hell out there. I usually just avoid it.

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: tom on July 21, 2014, 12:42:08 AM
so i'm glad i used the search button instead of making a second thread. i went surfing once before back home. i always thought it was super lame and not that hard, and then i got to the beach. the crashing waves are so loud i couldn't even hear my buddy talking. now that i live in southern california i've seriously been thinking about starting, but i haven't had the free time to do it yet. with my broken ankle i'll be able to skate again just as winter creeps around, which coincidentally is the perfect season for surfing in southern california apparently. i'm strongly considering taking lessons because i don't want to go out and get frustrated after buying all the gear; board and wetsuit.

all things considered i'm realistically looking at going 2-4 days a week when i can. you can say what you want, but none of my friends will be going skating at 7 or 8 am anyways, so there's plenty of time in the day to go surfing and then be skating by noon. one of my best friends explained why he thought it was crazy and i couldn't stop laughing "imagine a bunch of skaters in a parking lot waiting around for a moving box or quarterpipe to pop out of the ground that you had to chase". but that seems like that's it in a nutshell: a big moving quarterpipe that you have to chase and roll into at the right moment

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOjZGX84iaE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOjZGX84iaE#)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: McDuff on July 21, 2014, 04:22:11 AM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
I've lived on the West Coast my entire life, and the answer is no, not ever.
Because
(http://www.whalewatchsa.com/wp-content/gallery/species-great-white-shark/gansbaai-great-white-sharks-4.jpg)
I don't care what the odds are, the odds are 0 if I take myself out of the equation.
[close]

this 1000% and i use that exact same "odds" sentence every time.

surfing is rad, but i saw Jaws at too young of an age to get past it.
[close]

Ha this is pretty much where i'm at too. All the statistics about the likelihood of a shark attack don't mean a thing because sharks are probably the closest thing I have to a phobia. It's irrational, but I don't give a fuck.

I will still go in the ocean but I am paranoid as hell out there. I usually just avoid it.



i agree with this. i live about 2 miles from the beach and the water scares me. ill go in up to my waist and thats about it. ive tried surfing a few times and its def fun, but animal planet has ruined me. these fuckers.

(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e367/anticherries/this%20girl%20digs%20horror/AnglerFish-1.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: JB on July 21, 2014, 06:13:38 AM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
I've lived on the West Coast my entire life, and the answer is no, not ever.
Because
(http://www.whalewatchsa.com/wp-content/gallery/species-great-white-shark/gansbaai-great-white-sharks-4.jpg)
I don't care what the odds are, the odds are 0 if I take myself out of the equation.
[close]

this 1000% and i use that exact same "odds" sentence every time.

surfing is rad, but i saw Jaws at too young of an age to get past it.
[close]

Ha this is pretty much where i'm at too. All the statistics about the likelihood of a shark attack don't mean a thing because sharks are probably the closest thing I have to a phobia. It's irrational, but I don't give a fuck.

I will still go in the ocean but I am paranoid as hell out there. I usually just avoid it.


[close]

i agree with this. i live about 2 miles from the beach and the water scares me. ill go in up to my waist and thats about it. ive tried surfing a few times and its def fun, but animal planet has ruined me. these fuckers.

(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e367/anticherries/this%20girl%20digs%20horror/AnglerFish-1.jpg)


you wussbois need to trade homes with me. ive always wanted to surf and sharks dont scare me. plus getting eaten by a shark is probably one of the most badass ways to die, so i wouldnt even be that bummed about it.


the only surfing ive ever done is on one of those wave machines they have at waterparks. that thing kicked my ass.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Yushin Okami on July 21, 2014, 06:56:47 AM
so i'm glad i used the search button instead of making a second thread. i went surfing once before back home. i always thought it was super lame and not that hard, and then i got to the beach. the crashing waves are so loud i couldn't even hear my buddy talking. now that i live in southern california i've seriously been thinking about starting, but i haven't had the free time to do it yet. with my broken ankle i'll be able to skate again just as winter creeps around, which coincidentally is the perfect season for surfing in southern california apparently. i'm strongly considering taking lessons because i don't want to go out and get frustrated after buying all the gear; board and wetsuit.

all things considered i'm realistically looking at going 2-4 days a week when i can. you can say what you want, but none of my friends will be going skating at 7 or 8 am anyways, so there's plenty of time in the day to go surfing and then be skating by noon. one of my best friends explained why he thought it was crazy and i couldn't stop laughing "imagine a bunch of skaters in a parking lot waiting around for a moving box or quarterpipe to pop out of the ground that you had to chase". but that seems like that's it in a nutshell: a big moving quarterpipe that you have to chase and roll into at the right moment

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOjZGX84iaE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOjZGX84iaE#)

What part of SoCal are you in cause I'd always be down to go out. I've never taken a lesson and have just been teaching myself so I'm very much a beginner. I do have a old wetsuit and board you could use if needed (it's a shortboard though...)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Kanye Omari West on July 21, 2014, 07:56:52 AM
Never surfed before but as I hit my late teens it looked really, really interesting and I was down for it. I didn't have a board/gear myself or friends that would go until a co worker a couple years ago. I told him I always wanted to but he didn't really throw an invite on a session until I tore my ACL and that was a little over a year ago. I live in west FL so the waves are kinda dirt in comparison to Cali and whatnot (I assume). I think my knee is good enough to give it a shot though. Looks super fucking fun.

I went skimboarding with some homeys once and picked it up super, super quick. Definitely not saying surfing is anything like skimming but hell, surfing is an activity where you're riding a board, requires balance and other shit that coincides with skating. Don't see why I couldn't pick it up in time as well.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: tom on July 21, 2014, 02:09:41 PM
Expand Quote
so i'm glad i used the search button instead of making a second thread. i went surfing once before back home. i always thought it was super lame and not that hard, and then i got to the beach. the crashing waves are so loud i couldn't even hear my buddy talking. now that i live in southern california i've seriously been thinking about starting, but i haven't had the free time to do it yet. with my broken ankle i'll be able to skate again just as winter creeps around, which coincidentally is the perfect season for surfing in southern california apparently. i'm strongly considering taking lessons because i don't want to go out and get frustrated after buying all the gear; board and wetsuit.

all things considered i'm realistically looking at going 2-4 days a week when i can. you can say what you want, but none of my friends will be going skating at 7 or 8 am anyways, so there's plenty of time in the day to go surfing and then be skating by noon. one of my best friends explained why he thought it was crazy and i couldn't stop laughing "imagine a bunch of skaters in a parking lot waiting around for a moving box or quarterpipe to pop out of the ground that you had to chase". but that seems like that's it in a nutshell: a big moving quarterpipe that you have to chase and roll into at the right moment

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOjZGX84iaE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOjZGX84iaE#)
[close]

What part of SoCal are you in cause I'd always be down to go out. I've never taken a lesson and have just been teaching myself so I'm very much a beginner. I do have a old wetsuit and board you could use if needed (it's a shortboard though...)
i live 20 minutes away from ventura, but i'm moving down to la/hollywood by october. i may take you up on the offer, but most likely i'm gonna buy the board used and get a decent wetsuit. i'm getting a shorter board, too. allegedly manhattan beach is a good place to learn/it's where i might take a couple lessons before going off and figuring out how to ride. i have dreams of one day being able to ride something like the waves at huntington beach, but that could be a bit of a pipe dream. or not. i just gotta keep going as much as possible. where in southern california are you?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Yushin Okami on July 21, 2014, 02:35:17 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
so i'm glad i used the search button instead of making a second thread. i went surfing once before back home. i always thought it was super lame and not that hard, and then i got to the beach. the crashing waves are so loud i couldn't even hear my buddy talking. now that i live in southern california i've seriously been thinking about starting, but i haven't had the free time to do it yet. with my broken ankle i'll be able to skate again just as winter creeps around, which coincidentally is the perfect season for surfing in southern california apparently. i'm strongly considering taking lessons because i don't want to go out and get frustrated after buying all the gear; board and wetsuit.

all things considered i'm realistically looking at going 2-4 days a week when i can. you can say what you want, but none of my friends will be going skating at 7 or 8 am anyways, so there's plenty of time in the day to go surfing and then be skating by noon. one of my best friends explained why he thought it was crazy and i couldn't stop laughing "imagine a bunch of skaters in a parking lot waiting around for a moving box or quarterpipe to pop out of the ground that you had to chase". but that seems like that's it in a nutshell: a big moving quarterpipe that you have to chase and roll into at the right moment

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOjZGX84iaE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOjZGX84iaE#)
[close]

What part of SoCal are you in cause I'd always be down to go out. I've never taken a lesson and have just been teaching myself so I'm very much a beginner. I do have a old wetsuit and board you could use if needed (it's a shortboard though...)
[close]
i live 20 minutes away from ventura, but i'm moving down to la/hollywood by october. i may take you up on the offer, but most likely i'm gonna buy the board used and get a decent wetsuit. i'm getting a shorter board, too. allegedly manhattan beach is a good place to learn/it's where i might take a couple lessons before going off and figuring out how to ride. i have dreams of one day being able to ride something like the waves at huntington beach, but that could be a bit of a pipe dream. or not. i just gotta keep going as much as possible. where in southern california are you?

Newport Beach. The waves here can be pretty gnarly so I only go out on mellow days or head up to Manhattan Beach/Venice. Shoot me a PM when you're in the area
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: tom on July 21, 2014, 03:00:08 PM
(http://www.trbimg.com/img-5263ff49/turbine/la-me-ln-surfers-bodysurfers-tussle-for-contro-001/580/580x352)
newport looks gnarly as fuck. i'll hit you up when i'm down there though. i wont be surfing or skating until maybe november, but most likely december
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on July 31, 2014, 09:00:01 AM
So much fun. I'm not very good and just longboard at this point pretty much. Bring in the ocean is nice.  I just got this

(http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn255/keifer_s/Thelegend.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: j....soy..... on July 31, 2014, 10:13:40 AM
Surfing is the most fun I've ever had in comparison to how badly I failed at it.....

I think I've successfully stood up and rode out like once each time I went....

It's not easily accessible for me so I never do it....you can't beat skating that way....culturally I think it's pretty different too.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: IanBZHD on July 31, 2014, 10:51:01 AM
So much fun. I'm not very good and just longboard at this point pretty much. Bring in the ocean is nice.  I just got this

(http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn255/keifer_s/Thelegend.jpg)

Sick board! Unfortunately, surfboards cost a little bit more then a skateboard...

Anyway, this is one of my favorite dudes. He surfs Newport a lot I'm pretty sure. Not to mention he's in a couple good bands if you like that kind of music. Japanese Motors and Tomorrows Tulips.

Alex Knost- Single Fins (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_0RuY9t8oI#)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Yushin Okami on July 31, 2014, 12:16:05 PM
Yeah... it sucks how much they cost. I was using a used board for a couple of years and just bought my first new board a couple of weeks ago.

Glad this thread got a bit of boost... I'm gonna go out right now.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: IanBZHD on July 31, 2014, 12:19:55 PM
Yeah... it sucks how much they cost. I was using a used board for a couple of years and just bought my first new board a couple of weeks ago.

Glad this thread got a bit of boost... I'm gonna go out right now.

Hell yeah, catch something dude!

I'll be in the Orange County/South LA region from Chicago during the October 25th weekend if anybody on here wants to surf. I could use some pointers!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Yushin Okami on August 29, 2014, 08:05:17 AM
Bumping this because of hurricane Marie... it's been absolutely nuts in my neighborhood this week
(http://scontent-a-dfw.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/10597356_709253855796717_508538793_n.jpg)
(http://scontent-a.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/10597336_762617677136775_419055049_n.jpg)
(http://scontent-b.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xfa1/t51.2885-15/10654958_416548201816335_840534024_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Ronald Wilson Reagan on August 29, 2014, 06:28:16 PM
I've surfed my fair share of times. I went to college in Santa Cruz, and my freshman year I had a friend who was down to take me out surfing all the time. He failed out after that year because he was too down to surf, and moved home. I haven't gone out that much after that. The thing I remember most quickly when I go back out from time to time, is how exhausting it is getting the shit kicked out of you by cold ass waves (the pacific in nor cal gets really fucking cold, for those who don't know) over and over, until by the time you get out to where you need to be, you just want to fucking sit there for a while before riding a wave again (especially as a beginner who catches like 1 out of 50 waves and just eats shit the rest of the time)

I respect surfing, but surfer culture sure has a lot of lame aspects. Sea jocks...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: givecigstosurfgroms on August 29, 2014, 09:11:49 PM
surfing is a constrictive element on you're life where as skateboarding just goes with life.  Surfing is addictive and waves are the only good thing about it  surfers are are easily the SHITTIEST part of surfing .   imagine if you took skateboarding and completely ruined all social aspects of it you would end up with a typical surf line up   I love surfing but am a little jaded rite now, an mega swell was projected the last 3 days but wasnt as much as predicted so it was uber crowded, big waits between sets and everyone was being an asshole lots of snaking, paddleing arounding, collisions and fights
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: malibu hamish on August 29, 2014, 10:40:12 PM
surfing is a constrictive element on you're life where as skateboarding just goes with life.  Surfing is addictive and waves are the only good thing about it  surfers are are easily the SHITTIEST part of surfing .   imagine if you took skateboarding and completely ruined all social aspects of it you would end up with a typical surf line up   I love surfing but am a little jaded rite now, an mega swell was projected the last 3 days but wasnt as much as predicted so it was uber crowded, big waits between sets and everyone was being an asshole lots of snaking, paddleing arounding, collisions and fights
and going to the skatepark is any different? oh wait skating is only in the streets i forgot.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: givecigstosurfgroms on August 30, 2014, 05:54:06 AM
i go to parks too but if need be i'll skate a tiny feature no one else is riding (and be happy) and i rarely skate the bowl section.  Also malibu hamish quit surfing (for a small time i believe) for the same reasons that I am kinda bummed on it rite now.  Alot of surfers don't have anything else and i if i had to pick one of the 2, it wouldnt be surfing (as crazy as that sounds).
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: IanBZHD on August 30, 2014, 11:59:56 AM
surfing is a constrictive element on you're life where as skateboarding just goes with life.  Surfing is addictive and waves are the only good thing about it  surfers are are easily the SHITTIEST part of surfing .   imagine if you took skateboarding and completely ruined all social aspects of it you would end up with a typical surf line up   I love surfing but am a little jaded rite now, an mega swell was projected the last 3 days but wasnt as much as predicted so it was uber crowded, big waits between sets and everyone was being an asshole lots of snaking, paddleing arounding, collisions and fights
Thats crazy to hear seeing as surfing has a pretty "Duuuude whats goin on" stereotype to it. I guess since im not from a coast im not around the general surfing type a lot. I'll be sure to watch my back when im out there in october.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Baron Samedi on August 30, 2014, 12:23:43 PM
I grew up and still live in a surf mecca but never got into surfing because growing up surfers were the dumbest, smuggest, shittiest people I've ever met. Nowadays I have plenty of good friends who surf, but the fact remains there are grown-ass men who stay around here and retain the same exact mentality as those shitty surfer kids I ran across growing up. If you're not from here and you want to come surf anywhere besides the beginner spots, get ready for some dude speaking some kind of fucked up pigeon creole dialect to talk shit, fuck with your car, and try to fight you.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: givecigstosurfgroms on August 30, 2014, 03:29:51 PM
    gnarly crowds ...You're out floating in water, feet not touching the ground and you're not near land, so you're just a floating ego out there.   If there's negativity you can turn it around (by out thinking people,figuring out the current and being at least somewhat aggresive) or you can also get really affected in a bad way and get bummed and just think "fuck i should have just went skating today this sucks shit!" 
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Dad you're embarrassing me on April 08, 2018, 05:14:56 PM
Bumping this rather than start a new one. I have surfed my whole life, but I stopped surfing regularly about 3 years ago coz I was bummed on the crowds and have too much other shit going on to give the waves the priority. Recently Iíve been getting back on the board, and as Iíve noticed there is a lot of other Aussies on here these days I figured thereíd be some other surfers on here (surfing being our national past time and all). Where ya at?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Francis Xavier on April 08, 2018, 10:59:59 PM
Last time I surfed the Northside of the HB pier I saw Ed lurking about shooting photos haha. I don't get to paddle out as much as I want to,but I'm working on it. It's fun,but yeah I used to really not like surfers,especially in high school with only the privileged kids surfing a lot.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on April 09, 2018, 07:04:59 AM
I have only been surfing for a few years.  looking forward to getting out of the wetsuit for summer water temps.  Waves here in the southeast are inconsistent but can be fun.  a lot of longboarding for me
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Dad you're embarrassing me on April 09, 2018, 07:50:07 PM
Last time I surfed the Northside of the HB pier I saw Ed lurking about shooting photos haha. I don't get to paddle out as much as I want to,but I'm working on it. It's fun,but yeah I used to really not like surfers,especially in high school with only the privileged kids surfing a lot.

I still donít like surfers, they are the worst! The problem where I live is that surfers are also usually also skaters, and they bring their aggro jock locals only vibe to the skatepark.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Francis Xavier on April 09, 2018, 09:57:15 PM
Expand Quote
Last time I surfed the Northside of the HB pier I saw Ed lurking about shooting photos haha. I don't get to paddle out as much as I want to,but I'm working on it. It's fun,but yeah I used to really not like surfers,especially in high school with only the privileged kids surfing a lot.
[close]

I still donít like surfers, they are the worst! The problem where I live is that surfers are also usually also skaters, and they bring their aggro jock locals only vibe to the skatepark.
I can understand localism at a surf spot,it's the same at a skate spot. At a skatepark it is the worst though and really dumb.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Dad you're embarrassing me on April 10, 2018, 12:19:28 AM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Last time I surfed the Northside of the HB pier I saw Ed lurking about shooting photos haha. I don't get to paddle out as much as I want to,but I'm working on it. It's fun,but yeah I used to really not like surfers,especially in high school with only the privileged kids surfing a lot.
[close]

I still donít like surfers, they are the worst! The problem where I live is that surfers are also usually also skaters, and they bring their aggro jock locals only vibe to the skatepark.
[close]
I can understand localism at a surf spot,it's the same at a skate spot. At a skatepark it is the worst though and really dumb.

I live in Sydney, so I see localism as a bit of a moot point when 5 million people live within driving distance to your beach! Even in rural areas I see localism as being self defeating, as tourism is often the backbone for the local economy: People coming to surf your break are essentially putting food on your table. And yeah, localism at the skatepark is ridiculous, I think these guys just canít turn it off!

 I got some good waves to myself in the national park today. I still love surfing haha
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: somethingmustbreaknow on April 10, 2018, 02:05:13 AM
drop in, smack the lip - HUABAAAH!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on March 12, 2021, 04:42:49 PM
Alright, so I know this board is the surfing equivalent of a beginner complete from Zumiez.. but Iím still a kook and itís a huge upgrade from the 7í10 Bic tank I just sold.  Torq Mod Fun V+, 7í4 x 22 x 3 - 56L. 

(http://imgshare.io/images/2021/03/12/F1DC3B58-6B3D-4D4A-A476-6B08277C7F64.jpg)

Only took it out once so far, and losing that length/width is going to take some adjusting to.  Itís got a thruster fin setup and V-shaped concave under the tail section, which is def less stable than the flat bottom single fin I just came from.  Hoping I can get comfortable on it quick enough and start sticking some drops and sharpening my turns.

Post a stick.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on March 13, 2021, 05:32:09 PM
Brisbane, man I am still a couple months off getting my licence back, got in the car a couple times with mates and got a lift but itís been a while honestly. Usually would go to sunrise, sunshine or tea trees, occasionally north shore and up rainbow ways

And for south I like it past tweed, Yamba, cabbas sort of way is nice but I would usually go north over south

All my shits been in storage since I lost licence and moved so no pics unfortunately
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: L33Tg33k on March 13, 2021, 08:02:48 PM
All of my friends have gotten into surfing in the last year or two. It sucks because I can't swim and I feel myself being left behind. I can't relate to them on a new big segment of their lives. The most I can do is listen and learn about it, but I'll never be a part of it. :'(
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on March 13, 2021, 09:04:05 PM
For what itís worth, I started 2 years ago at 32 and didnít go past chest deep for my first summer.  Basically just rode broken waves in on my stomach, then knees, then eventually got to my feet.  I canít imagine what learning to swim as an adult would be like, but if you can put embarrassment aside, I fully believe you have the physical and mental ability to pick up swimming/surfing if you wanted to.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on March 14, 2021, 12:40:51 AM
Why donít you just get swimming lessons at a pool man? I bet itís not even expensive, Iím not having a go at you but I reckon itís real important to at least be able to tread water. Or just YouTube it and go to the shallow end of a pool and have a go at it

Could come in real fucken handy one day, you just never know bro

People will naturally float, so from what I understand people must just panic and thrash around and shit and drown that way. I reckon if you went to a shallow pool and just tried to work it out youíd be ok
Literally all you have to do is pretend to ride a bicycle with your legs and you just stabilise yourself with your arms even the most unfit person can do that for a long ass time

I have no idea if you are on the heavier side or not but fat is less dense than water same deal how cooking fat sits above water so a sufficiently large person should be able to lie on their back and ride high, if you will
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on March 20, 2021, 06:07:48 PM
I taught swimming lessons for almost a decade when I was younger and I definitely taught a decent amount of adult non-swimmers. It was weird being a 16 year old stoner and teaching middle aged people with lifelong fear of the water... but we got most of them swimming at least 25 yards (one competition sized pool length) by the end of their first ten week session. Now I realize thatís a far cry from surfing waves but itís definitely a great life skill and helps open up a lot of fun activities from water parks to boogie boarding and kayaking etc.

On the subject of lessons, Iím 33, and Iíve been surfing casually since I was a teenager. Surfed more regularly for about 8 years now. Iím still pretty darn bad and Iím starting to think itís time I shell out for a few surfing lessons.

I can ride tons of whitewater, usually pop up on at least a few unbroken waves each session, but only very occasionally manage to ride down the line. I feel like I should be able to trim or bottom turn to head down the line more regularly by now? If I had more friends that surfed maybe I would pick up tips from them.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on March 20, 2021, 06:42:48 PM
may have mentioned imn aa river surfing, lots of ice coming down all winter but especially now Had 3 fins knocked of so far this winter, had to epoxy the box back in once, feels kind of fun although annoying, like breaking your board sometimes.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rawr1922 on March 20, 2021, 08:45:15 PM
My $0.02, surfing all about skating on water. All about style like our other craft. Less is more. Always about style
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on March 24, 2021, 08:37:12 AM
Does anyone know of a surfing forum that has a similar vibe to slap? Iíve poked around a little and a lot of them seem super lame, plus the surfer.com forum has gigantic ads that make mobile usage basically impossible.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on March 24, 2021, 01:49:00 PM
All of my friends have gotten into surfing in the last year or two. It sucks because I can't swim and I feel myself being left behind. I can't relate to them on a new big segment of their lives. The most I can do is listen and learn about it, but I'll never be a part of it. :'(

What gives? How come you can't learn to swim? My apologies if you have some sort of debilitating condition (although flipper arms in this context might actually help? bad joke). Seriously, most people are not strong swimmer's, but it isn't that hard to learn if you can overcome the mental hurdle. If you go to the local pool a couple times a week, take some lessons, it'll change your life. You can do it!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on March 24, 2021, 05:48:15 PM
Does anyone know of a surfing forum that has a similar vibe to slap? Iíve poked around a little and a lot of them seem super lame, plus the surfer.com forum has gigantic ads that make mobile usage basically impossible.
r/surfing has similar levels of shit talk and gear discussion, but I understand if itís not your vibe.  Havenít looked at any others but thatís mostly because Iím not overly interested in surf pros or videos.

After a handful of shitty sessions and wondering if I made a big mistake sizing down, the conditions were finally on point today and I caught the best rides of my life so far.  Can finally pull hard turns up and down the face as opposed to my previous drawn out carves.  Feels amazing, like learning a new skate trick, which I havenít done in a very long time.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on March 25, 2021, 03:24:22 AM
Surfing is so much fun.  i got a 11' glider and it makes the small days here on the east coast so much better.  the speed it gathers and the ease of paddling are great.  I think I can pretty much reduce down to it and a 7' egg. 
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: trash on March 25, 2021, 09:43:22 AM
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on March 25, 2021, 07:19:27 PM
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
if you're a strong swimmer and an experienced skater you can probably figure out the basics in a week, especially if you watch some youtube videos beforehand. just don't underestimate the upper body strength required. i have seen more than one skate friend get super discouraged because they werent physically prepared for how much energy theyd need to put in paddling. one of them also got motion sickness from the water after 30min or so, which was kinda funny to me but i guess makes sense if you don't spend a ton of time in the water. i'm still not very good but i'm totally self taught so it's definitely possible. if you aren't already a big upper body strength person, you could start training by swimming laps or hitting some extra shoulder workouts.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on March 26, 2021, 02:12:16 AM
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.

the water should be high 60s by then.  probably won't need a wetsuit.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: pugmaster on March 26, 2021, 07:51:11 PM
Expand Quote
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
[close]

the water should be high 60s by then.  probably won't need a wetsuit.

My favorite part of surfing is that early morning, barely making it from the car to the water peeing in the wetsuit vibe
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: cucktard on March 27, 2021, 03:08:35 AM
Expand Quote
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
[close]
if you're a strong swimmer and an experienced skater you can probably figure out the basics in a week, especially if you watch some youtube videos beforehand. just don't underestimate the upper body strength required. i have seen more than one skate friend get super discouraged because they werent physically prepared for how much energy theyd need to put in paddling. one of them also got motion sickness from the water after 30min or so, which was kinda funny to me but i guess makes sense if you don't spend a ton of time in the water. i'm still not very good but i'm totally self taught so it's definitely possible. if you aren't already a big upper body strength person, you could start training by swimming laps or hitting some extra shoulder workouts.

My first time surfing was 16 years old, having a surf instructor push me onto a wave on a huge longboard as it went past. Not much problem standing up, but couldn’t catch a wave on my own after that. 

Had a couple more tries at it as an adult in marginal conditions, thinking it would be a breeze from all my skating and snowboarding. Fact is, unlike snowboarding and skating where you are almost always on the board, actual board riding is 5% of the surfing experience. Couldn’t get it and spent most of my time wearing my arms out and getting a bad sunburn.

Finally, went to my sister’s wedding in Hawaii about 8 years ago for 1 week, and my brother and I agreed to rent boards and go every day. So I was a lot less cocky this time and little buy little I learned the basics.

1- sit on the beach and see where the breaks are, and where to go to line up for them.

2- learning to get out past the breaks. I couldn’t duck dive with the 7-footer I had, but could turtle.

3- lining up and watching for your turn, learning the etiquette.

4- watching how to catch the wave. I would paddle like made for a wave and still somehow missed them. Finally by the end of the trip I was watching the other guys catch a wave in 4 smooth strokes, and I learned to do it in 6.

5- once caught and up, learning speed. A kind local in the line-up gave me the crucial info that forward on the board is go, in the rear is slow down.

After putting that all together on my last wave of the trip I caught a nice 20-second wave into shore

It’s been a while, and since I live in the mountains, I try to get out powder surfing on bindingless snowboards as much as I can.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on March 27, 2021, 12:40:20 PM
busted my hand/wrist and the levels are peaking right now, so I'm going go to tomorrow and stand on the shore drinking coffee talking shit to anyone who gets too close. I'll be  the live version of Slap over there.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Wheelbyte on March 29, 2021, 06:41:57 AM
Billy Kempers rapid fire all time year which finished with the session of a lifetime and then extreme pain

 https://youtu.be/gGGMvPtjtZo
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on March 29, 2021, 08:45:20 AM
missed good surf this weekend to go to a friend's wedding.
Checking Instagram was a mistake
Any Texas surfers on here?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on March 29, 2021, 09:24:39 AM
missed good surf this weekend to go to a friend's wedding.
Checking Instagram was a mistake
Any Texas surfers on here?
Iím in LA right now but I work remotely for a job in Austin. So I might be a TX surfer in a few months if I keep working for them IRL.

Whatís the TX/Austin surfing experience like? Seems like I could drive 3 hours to a few decent spots on the gulf. The ďsurf ranchĒ wave pool place closer to Austin grosses me out since they had some sort of brain eating amoeba kill a guy just a few years back. Idk, is it worth it or should I just save surfing for my trips back to visit family on the coasts?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on March 29, 2021, 03:07:05 PM
Billy Kempers rapid fire all time year which finished with the session of a lifetime and then extreme pain

 https://youtu.be/gGGMvPtjtZo

have to admit, him standing on the rockstar seadoo beating his chest and talking about how he just wants to win, I was kind of ready to see what kind of shit he was gonna eat.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on March 29, 2021, 04:49:56 PM
Oh he eats shit alright haha
Absolutely gruesome

Yeah youíd get a couple lessons for sure just cause you might do weird shit without knowing, easier to have it all explained properly sort of thing
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: shucknjive on March 29, 2021, 05:11:28 PM
i luv u

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEG2VTHS9yg
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on March 29, 2021, 06:42:08 PM
These are some good ones, anyone else got like favourite videos of outrageous shit

https://youtu.be/Fr5LSFUqR_U

https://youtu.be/OZreIggVUmE

https://youtu.be/0I0omT_d6xk

These two are classic, Botefdunn

https://youtu.be/WJuE8nQtv1w

https://youtu.be/qR71I1TfqWM

This one is very funny you could just skip to 3.30

https://youtu.be/Ort_gb0yyFk

Sorry I keep posting haha we are on lockdown and I am drinking and watching clips I like

https://youtu.be/x7q-84gdMso

https://youtu.be/emV8kyMTf9s


Post rad shit from your side of the world guys
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rocklobster on March 29, 2021, 08:10:02 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
[close]
if you're a strong swimmer and an experienced skater you can probably figure out the basics in a week, especially if you watch some youtube videos beforehand. just don't underestimate the upper body strength required. i have seen more than one skate friend get super discouraged because they werent physically prepared for how much energy theyd need to put in paddling. one of them also got motion sickness from the water after 30min or so, which was kinda funny to me but i guess makes sense if you don't spend a ton of time in the water. i'm still not very good but i'm totally self taught so it's definitely possible. if you aren't already a big upper body strength person, you could start training by swimming laps or hitting some extra shoulder workouts.
[close]
Had a couple more tries at it as an adult in marginal conditions, thinking it would be a breeze from all my skating and snowboarding. Fact is, unlike snowboarding and skating where you are almost always on the board, actual board riding is 5% 1% of the surfing experience. Couldnít get it and spent most of my time wearing my arms out and getting a bad sunburn.

Surfing is way more unforgiving than skateboarding. Mess up a trick and you can pick up your board and try again. Mess up a wave and you have to battle the waves to get back out to the line up, wait your turn, wait for the next set; all while hoping you didn't get injured or nearly drowning.

It's definitely more mentally and physically draining than skateboarding; the option of taking a break after trying a trick isn't really there since you have to be constantly watching the waves and paddling out to avoid incoming waves.

That said, I love it. Wish I picked it up earlier or lived nearer to the waves.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Wheelbyte on March 30, 2021, 12:03:13 AM
Expand Quote
Billy Kempers rapid fire all time year which finished with the session of a lifetime and then extreme pain

 https://youtu.be/gGGMvPtjtZo
[close]

have to admit, him standing on the rockstar seadoo beating his chest and talking about how he just wants to win, I was kind of ready to see what kind of shit he was gonna eat.

it was like something had to give eh?
that Hawaiian machismo has unraveled all the top pros from there....
been following Billy Kemper for nearly 10 years since I saw him surf in the Da Hui shootouts
he was just a kid but had the hunger and talent to go all the way
now his heavy build and power surfing remind me of Sunny Garcia
hopefully he endures for his family
and doesn't crash and burn like most top tier Hawaiians
its like you have the whole islands hopes and dreams on your shoulders
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Wheelbyte on March 30, 2021, 12:25:44 AM
These are some good ones, anyone else got like favourite videos of outrageous shit

Post rad shit from your side of the world guys

goes into his folder to pick a couple of favourites....

https://youtu.be/18BL7MKjtZM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHm3VjigNEE
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on March 30, 2021, 08:22:11 AM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
[close]
if you're a strong swimmer and an experienced skater you can probably figure out the basics in a week, especially if you watch some youtube videos beforehand. just don't underestimate the upper body strength required. i have seen more than one skate friend get super discouraged because they werent physically prepared for how much energy theyd need to put in paddling. one of them also got motion sickness from the water after 30min or so, which was kinda funny to me but i guess makes sense if you don't spend a ton of time in the water. i'm still not very good but i'm totally self taught so it's definitely possible. if you aren't already a big upper body strength person, you could start training by swimming laps or hitting some extra shoulder workouts.
[close]
Had a couple more tries at it as an adult in marginal conditions, thinking it would be a breeze from all my skating and snowboarding. Fact is, unlike snowboarding and skating where you are almost always on the board, actual board riding is 5% 1% of the surfing experience. Couldnít get it and spent most of my time wearing my arms out and getting a bad sunburn.
[close]

Surfing is way more unforgiving than skateboarding. Mess up a trick and you can pick up your board and try again. Mess up a wave and you have to battle the waves to get back out to the line up, wait your turn, wait for the next set; all while hoping you didn't get injured or nearly drowning.

It's definitely more mentally and physically draining than skateboarding; the option of taking a break after trying a trick isn't really there since you have to be constantly watching the waves and paddling out to avoid incoming waves.

That said, I love it. Wish I picked it up earlier or lived nearer to the waves.

What I always say:
Skateboarding is painful.
Snowboarding is expensive.
Surfing is hard.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on March 30, 2021, 08:39:01 AM
I surfed a ton when I was young. I quit though before I quit snowboarding and skating, but I came back to all three in the last two years. Snowboarding was first, then surfing.

Surfing, because of the time commitment and it being fundamentally harder than the other two has been the slowest to come back. One-way to my regular spot is 17 miles and I work full-time and have kids etc, so when I am on, it means I am surfing twice a week for about four hours total which really isnt enough, but I still love it.

Got out this morning. 1' slop, but I hadnt surfed yet in 2021. I am clearly not "on it" yet, but I am hoping this kicks off 2x per week going forward. Felt pretty good, the waves were shit. Only caught a couple. Mostly happy with my comfort in the water and my paddling etc. All felt good. Looking forward to getting back on it Friday.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on March 31, 2021, 03:53:43 AM
Fuck yeah, Wheelbyte, that Waimea river oneís sick

I went to Hawaii on holiday just as a little kid and we drove to north shore a few times and just watched, absolutely incredible, just watching was such a rush, I could never. Those waves are something else

I remember this shit so well cause I love food we had like the best surf and turf ever at this joint on the beach I think it was Waikiki

But yeah you live in a lovely part of the world bro, we went to some of the Jurassic park places probably sounds real dorky but I loved it

How goods this one I dunno how to relate it to skateboarding I guess the concept is a ba style of willpower but not even close really
Now, this is barging something
https://youtu.be/x_Jd2BezU2I
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Wheelbyte on March 31, 2021, 01:55:11 PM
Fuck yeah, Wheelbyte, that Waimea river oneís sick

I went to Hawaii on holiday just as a little kid and we drove to north shore a few times and just watched, absolutely incredible, just watching was such a rush, I could never. Those waves are something else

But yeah you live in a lovely part of the world bro

Not wrong mate that shits insane but my part of the world is actually that shit hole across the ditch from you in Dorkland NZ. I knew I should have said something so sorry for putting you wrong cobber. There aint much good surfing footage from NZ cause the waves are not as good as in OZ or elsewhere.

A whole bunch of us Kiwis lived on the beachfront at Maroubra in the 80s/90s my mate had a lease on 5 beds 4 baths 3 decks for 7 years this was before all the riots and bra boys infamy, we used to buy hash browns from a 12 yr old on a skateboard his sister was dating a Lebo guy, I also live in a old milking shed in Gracetown near Margaret River and Esperence too as my girl was from there [before all the shark fatalities] and spent a year or so in Yamba. Came real close to staying on in Northern Rivers, did a few trips to Nimbin and just a month ago was checking real estate, can still buy homes for 3-400k next to all the ferals. I just want to drop out now and be away from all the crazyness,, so I reckon Nimbin could be the go lol.

You on the Goldy?

https://youtu.be/A7r5rmGuTpI

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rocklobster on March 31, 2021, 08:01:57 PM
Bali is my closest surf spot, haven't been back in a while. But these guys post out daily videos at local spots:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y01lTuLpR-E
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on March 31, 2021, 08:38:47 PM
Nah I have always lived in brisbane, so I would go to Kirra with family all the time through the 90s, my dads mate had something to do with one of the surf clubs down there but yeah superbank was unreal back in the day Iím not even that good, deadset and I feel like a bit silly saying this but man it was such a nice wave back then

As a kid we actually lived closer to bribie and they made me do nippers there so weíd usually just go a bit further north on those days and towards late 90s and on we started staying up sunny coast and thatís all I really done since, yamba and surrounds are dope though I go down there sometimes

Ahh look I reckon thereís still places I have even been looking for myself old man grew up around Murwillumbah and most of northern nsw is gods country straight up

But yeah the dream of some proper acreage on a good quality piece of land by a river, yeah I just play lotto bro

What happened to nimbin?
These people happened man
Just wizard type cunts, theyíre gross deadset weíd drive down there for Mardi grass still in highschool and even then they were all kinda cooked and merely a novelty
https://youtu.be/tMzF8VDuWwo

You can search off maps, right, have a suss round the Channon, numinbah, places like that
Even mullum bro and inland from there, thereís places. Rathdowneys sick thereís heaps of places

Sounds like a good time for you in Sydney that would have been sick bro Iíd have to be ten years younger than you easy. Iím a bit suss on most of wa but I would fish 100%
I bet you had a sick time mate
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on March 31, 2021, 08:47:23 PM
Just got a new 6'2" Winged tail twin fin from my friend who shapes some pretty killer boards. I've always had mixed results with twinnies but excited to have one in the quiver again to liven up summer surf.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Wheelbyte on April 01, 2021, 12:31:35 AM
Nah I have always lived in brisbane, so I would go to Kirra with family all the time through the 90s, my dads mate had something to do with one of the surf clubs down there but yeah superbank was unreal back in the day Iím not even that good, deadset and I feel like a bit silly saying this but man it was such a nice wave back then

As a kid we actually lived closer to bribie and they made me do nippers there so weíd usually just go a bit further north on those days and towards late 90s and on we started staying up sunny coast and thatís all I really done since, yamba and surrounds are dope though I go down there sometimes

Ahh look I reckon thereís still places I have even been looking for myself old man grew up around Murwillumbah and most of northern nsw is gods country straight up

But yeah the dream of some proper acreage on a good quality piece of land by a river, yeah I just play lotto bro

What happened to nimbin?
These people happened man
Just wizard type cunts, theyíre gross deadset weíd drive down there for Mardi grass still in highschool and even then they were all kinda cooked and merely a novelty

You can search off maps, right, have a suss round the Channon, numinbah, places like that
Even mullum bro and inland from there, thereís places. Rathdowneys sick thereís heaps of places

Sounds like a good time for you in Sydney that would have been sick bro Iíd have to be ten years younger than you easy. Iím a bit suss on most of wa but I would fish 100%
I bet you had a sick time mate

Yea I have only smoked weed once or twice this year so being around drug fucked idiots like him aint my thing. Thanks for the input on names I reckon geographical isolation is what I'm really after, and a few alternative types but not the whole fucking town. Nimbin is full of swingers and Aucklands west coast surf beaches has lots of the same types who just what to stick their dicks into anyone new. I'm fairly conservative in most things and prefer a farming or fishing community as a base, with just a few arty city transplants. Meth has fucked up a lot of rural towns in NZ too, but all the junkies here are usually in the cities. Yamba was kinda perfect actually, being well off the main highway.

BTW that Currumbin Alley footage is one of my favourites I often watch, great soundtrack too.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on April 01, 2021, 01:34:48 AM
Haha yeah how good is it, I love that clip too
Yeah I wasnít having a dig at you heaps of people smoke and drink and stuff but I reckon that whole crew and type brings all this negative attention
Canít stand that drug, ice, hey
What I meant was by you can search off maps is like go to realestate or domain and set like a max price and search off the map there, youíd be surprised
But yeah all well inland nothing on the coast left really

Saw something a few months ago near the coast but had some shit over the land so unable to use as a permanent residence. Still, you could sort of think outside the box and come up with a mad little shack

How goods that Marty t on YouTube Iím not sure exactly where he is in New Zealand and I donít know if he surfs but he could probably do anything haha
But yeah itíd be great just to have a mad bit of land and fiddle with shit like how he does

Edit for clarity
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on April 09, 2021, 02:34:40 PM
just a few weeks ago i was saying that i had trouble making a bottom turn and going down the line; now i'm happy to say i have gotten over that hump. sessions lately have dependably involved at least a few waves where i get those turns in, really surprised myself when i finally started getting top turns in and could successfully pump into more than one section of the wave. i'm learning a lot faster since moving to LA where i can comfortably surf decent waves all winter instead of getting rusty for 6 months of the year and then riding summertime east coast much when it finally warms up. go figure  ::)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on April 09, 2021, 11:47:19 PM
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on April 10, 2021, 12:12:12 AM
One of them was always going to win, honestly Iím psyched on italo the most so itís chill

Sick to see some locals come up early though, that was great

Say what you want about the wsl but that ziff cunt just burns coin for his ego and our enjoyment he been doing it for years
Iím stoked to see it back
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Sila on April 10, 2021, 12:54:30 AM
All of my friends have gotten into surfing in the last year or two. It sucks because I can't swim and I feel myself being left behind. I can't relate to them on a new big segment of their lives. The most I can do is listen and learn about it, but I'll never be a part of it. :'(

Find your nearest community pool and get on to some adult swimming lessons. No need to feel embarrassed. We all learn different life skills at different stages. I still don't drive in my 30's as i've always lived in cities and lived with minimal belongings. I just never wanted the responsibility of owning a vehicle I can't sustain considering my financial struggles. I should have at least learnt sooner, but I also couldn't afford damages/repairs to someone else's vehicle if something happened to go wrong. But i'm getting on that in the next couple of weeks. For what it's worth I mainly want to learn so I can take up surfing. Let the excitement of a cool new hobby be your guide.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on April 10, 2021, 01:42:14 AM
Thatís a real good example I donít wanna lie about it I didnít get a licence till I was 25 or some shit

Worrying about all that stuff is bullshit everyone running their own race here but also swimming could save your life thereís hella drowning videos on liveleak some of them like selfie type ones pretty grim and hella preventable get into swimming mate
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on April 10, 2021, 07:57:04 AM
Went to a different break yesterday for the first time since I started surfing.  Was pretty nervous tbh because I always figured it was only for ďgoodĒ surfers.  Then I paddled out and saw some familiar faces, some of which are def no better than I am.  The only ones really ripping were a girl on a longboard and a 50 year old man on a short fish.  Really hyped to have a new spot thatís even closer than my usual one.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 10, 2021, 08:41:13 AM
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on April 10, 2021, 09:06:18 AM
Expand Quote
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on April 10, 2021, 10:10:52 AM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
[close]

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...
Seriously. Now that Iím getting a bit better I want to grab a board thatís easier to duck dive than my current 6í6Ē/~40L egg and 7í6Ē/~50L fun shape. I think I might be ready for like a 30-35L fish or some other kind of short-but-floaty thing. My gf thinks Iím insane  ;D :-X
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 10, 2021, 10:29:17 AM
Some surfers/ shapers say 'Foam is your friend' for a good reason. Its always tempting to shave off volume but unless you are ripping and surfing high quality waves on a regular basis volume doesn't often hurt. A good shaper can 'hide' volume so that boards still perform really well.

I have  a 5'8" Stretch that is about 38L in volume and its like an aquatic skateboard.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 10, 2021, 10:39:36 AM
Here's my newest board.

(https://i.imgur.com/0mXtJgZ.jpg)

It's a 6'2" shaped by my friend Dan Murdey. If you live in the PNW check his boards out. He's got a deep skateboarding background and has shaped for decades. Highly recommend chatting to him about custom boards.

Haven't surfed it yet. Next week!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on April 10, 2021, 09:01:36 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
[close]

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...
[close]
Seriously. Now that Iím getting a bit better I want to grab a board thatís easier to duck dive than my current 6í6Ē/~40L egg and 7í6Ē/~50L fun shape. I think I might be ready for like a 30-35L fish or some other kind of short-but-floaty thing. My gf thinks Iím insane  ;D :-X
Note to self: don't get better...

This was the hybrid I just picked up:
https://jamboards.com/threads/sold-7%E2%80%994-fowler-stoker-v-machine.10170/

Went out today and it was 0-1 ft so it was the worst day to test it out, but surprisingly easy to paddle and pop up on. 

Also, Frank (or?) Fred, good looking board.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on April 12, 2021, 10:08:59 AM
^ that board looks like a ton of fun

I was out in some 1-2 foot weakling waves yesterday as well, managed to ride my last wave all the way into shore and got a compliment from some dad who was just chilling on the beach with his kids, I was hyped. Then I noticed I had dinged my board up at some point during the sesh and I was not hyped. Was planning to go to San Onofre for the coming weekend and now not sure what to do. My other board is already in the shop. I need to stop surfing recklessly when I know Iím over rocks... but Iím just too psyched on charging these points after years of battling crummy beach break waves  :'(
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 12, 2021, 12:44:27 PM
^ that board looks like a ton of fun

I was out in some 1-2 foot weakling waves yesterday as well, managed to ride my last wave all the way into shore and got a compliment from some dad who was just chilling on the beach with his kids, I was hyped. Then I noticed I had dinged my board up at some point during the sesh and I was not hyped. Was planning to go to San Onofre for the coming weekend and now not sure what to do. My other board is already in the shop. I need to stop surfing recklessly when I know Iím over rocks... but Iím just too psyched on charging these points after years of battling crummy beach break waves  :'(

How bad is the ding?

Fixing boards can feel scary the first few times but its not that hard, especially if you do it in 60F+ temperature and take your time.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on April 12, 2021, 12:49:49 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
[close]

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...

join us on surfer mag forums we are in too deep send help
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on April 12, 2021, 12:52:04 PM
Expand Quote
Does anyone know of a surfing forum that has a similar vibe to slap? Iíve poked around a little and a lot of them seem super lame, plus the surfer.com forum has gigantic ads that make mobile usage basically impossible.
[close]
r/surfing has similar levels of shit talk and gear discussion, but I understand if itís not your vibe.  Havenít looked at any others but thatís mostly because Iím not overly interested in surf pros or videos.

After a handful of shitty sessions and wondering if I made a big mistake sizing down, the conditions were finally on point today and I caught the best rides of my life so far.  Can finally pull hard turns up and down the face as opposed to my previous drawn out carves.  Feels amazing, like learning a new skate trick, which I havenít done in a very long time.

on the surfer mag forum, click view desktop site
it will load up like normal w no ads

The waco pool has a new filtration system on it, I haven't been but all my friends have its sick.
Austin is going to be a haul for waves. Corpus is like 3 hours away so its not bad, I often cruise down to corpus from houston for the weekend. 3.5 hours ish 4 w pee and food stops

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on April 12, 2021, 02:42:15 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
[close]

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...
[close]

join us on surfer mag forums we are in too deep send help
Gonna save some money and say no...for now...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 12, 2021, 06:15:35 PM
The Surfer Mag Design forum has a wealth of knowledge on board design but some of those bros have quivers that are dozens and even hundreds of boards deep.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: jgonzalez on April 12, 2021, 09:39:09 PM
Never surfed but lived on/near the coast in nor cal my whole life. I donít have a car or any gear but I wanna learn. Would a good step 1 be to just get lessons
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on April 13, 2021, 11:01:03 AM
Honestly yes.
I see so many people waste a ton of time struggling because they don't wanna ask for help.
DO IT
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on April 19, 2021, 06:06:20 AM
Just put a deposit down on one of these. 5-6 month wait right now.
https://www.elmore.shop/models/easypin


Troy shapes at a shop I pass every time I surf. Just a few minutes from my house.
He's a ripping skater too. Gets (or got?) boards from Transportation Unit per this slightly older video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB5sBMDDErY

Before that got second at the Red Curb Invitational SoCal did
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zX7ZIQS83X8

Here's more on him shaping:
https://vimeo.com/207170507

Was exchanging a few emails with him and he hasnt skated in awhile but his bowl style is pretty sick.

Anyway, stoked to buy a board from a really good shaper who also skates, and gets skateboards from my favorite skateboard company!

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 19, 2021, 12:13:43 PM
Nice looking sticks there @bigdave . There's an appeal to single fins for sure but I find they need some nice predictable lined up waves... we don't get much of that up here in Oregon (with a few exceptions).

I also need to get a longboard one day. What size are you getting?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on April 19, 2021, 01:08:56 PM
Nice looking sticks there @bigdave . There's an appeal to single fins for sure but I find they need some nice predictable lined up waves... we don't get much of that up here in Oregon (with a few exceptions).

I also need to get a longboard one day. What size are you getting?

Well the initial convo was a 9'8" but, have a long, long time to think about it.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 22, 2021, 02:48:07 PM
been getting out a once/twice a week which is awesome. Feels good just to paddle out even if the waves suck

random thought but when skating transition I have always felt less comfortable doing anything frontside but, with surfing I feel way more comfortable going frontside and almost hate to go backside(unless I am on a longboard)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on April 22, 2021, 02:56:21 PM
been getting out a once/twice a week which is awesome. Feels good just to paddle out even if the waves suck

random thought but when skating transition I have always felt less comfortable doing anything frontside but, with surfing I feel way more comfortable going frontside and almost hate to go backside(unless I am on a longboard)

i feel the same way and i think its pretty common. part of is that when skating ramps backside you can pretty much eyeball the obstacle and be confident that you know how its gonna work on the approach, but surfing backside you have to stay aware of a wave thats behind your shoulder while it constantly changes shape, size, texture, etc

on a similar sort of skate/surf crossover note, i'm finding that my stubby 6'6" thruster egg is way more like a skateboard than my 7'6" 2+1. The bigger board is super easier to catch waves but once i go to turn it becomes pretty weird feeling. some people have said quads can feel "skatey," so i got a quad set for the egg to see what happens. hoping that the "faster" quad setup will compensate for lower volume on small days.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on April 22, 2021, 05:56:12 PM
just came out of the water, sunset surf with epic levels. The main is pumping, get some!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 23, 2021, 09:06:14 PM
Pulled up at the spot today and it looked garbage. Small, no shape, sectioning dribble. There is a nearby skatepark and so I nearly pulled the plug on surfing but decided I may as well go for a paddle to keep the paddle muscles up. I took out my 7'2" midlength and set it up as a single fin. Tide started dropping and some really fun peaks started popping up, then walling up into some long cruisey rides. Single fin is something I rarely do but it forces you to slow down and really read the wave. This spot is usually super crowded but there was about 6 of us out all morning. Stoked.

Then I went for a post-surf skate at this super peculiar park. Crazy tight transitions, kins and pool coping that no one sauces and is super rugged due to the Oregon coast air. Anyway, I really think the surf sesh got me in the right mind set for some frontside slashes and carve grinds in some tough to got to sections of this park. Had the damn place to myself. Perfect Spring day.

As for a more skate sensation, I like sub 6' short wide tailed quads. A twin keel fish in the right waves can feel like pumping a bowl also.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: pugmaster on April 24, 2021, 09:05:22 PM
What are some good beaches/spots near Orange County where parking is free/not a hassle?

Thanks!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Jagr on April 25, 2021, 08:46:57 AM
Pulled up at the spot today and it looked garbage. Small, no shape, sectioning dribble. There is a nearby skatepark and so I nearly pulled the plug on surfing but decided I may as well go for a paddle to keep the paddle muscles up. I took out my 7'2" midlength and set it up as a single fin. Tide started dropping and some really fun peaks started popping up, then walling up into some long cruisey rides. Single fin is something I rarely do but it forces you to slow down and really read the wave. This spot is usually super crowded but there was about 6 of us out all morning. Stoked.

Then I went for a post-surf skate at this super peculiar park. Crazy tight transitions, kins and pool coping that no one sauces and is super rugged due to the Oregon coast air. Anyway, I really think the surf sesh got me in the right mind set for some frontside slashes and carve grinds in some tough to got to sections of this park. Had the damn place to myself. Perfect Spring day.

As for a more skate sensation, I like sub 6' short wide tailed quads. A twin keel fish in the right waves can feel like pumping a bowl also.

Which park?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 25, 2021, 08:49:37 AM
Seaside oregon
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 26, 2021, 01:40:10 PM
What are some good beaches/spots near Orange County where parking is free/not a hassle?

Thanks!

for free parking/decent waves I'd recommend the numbered streets in downtown Huntington Beach, especially on week days.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on April 26, 2021, 03:14:42 PM
Expand Quote
What are some good beaches/spots near Orange County where parking is free/not a hassle?

Thanks!
[close]

for free parking/decent waves I'd recommend the numbered streets in downtown Huntington Beach, especially on week days.

So what you're trying to say is...

Sorry, huge Huell fan here.

Yeah, I agree with this recommendation, but I also would suggest scraping the pennies for a State Park pass. You can park anywhere I think south of the pier + Bolsa Chica w/ the state park pass. I surf Magnolia street area at 7am a lot (mostly just to be crowds and stay out of other people's way) and I get my value out of the pass really fast. Also, how the fuck is this swell holy shit. Too rich for my blood right now.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on April 26, 2021, 03:24:27 PM
Has anyone used a Green Fuz bag yet? I really want to buy one of these for my incoming Elmore and make it my daily bag to protect my board as much as possible.
https://green-fuz.com/products/transmission-longboard-day-bag?variant=39309482721385

Little pricey but everyone, including CJ Nelson, swears by the quality.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 26, 2021, 05:10:18 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
What are some good beaches/spots near Orange County where parking is free/not a hassle?

Thanks!
[close]

for free parking/decent waves I'd recommend the numbered streets in downtown Huntington Beach, especially on week days.
[close]

So what you're trying to say is...

Sorry, huge Huell fan here.

Yeah, I agree with this recommendation, but I also would suggest scraping the pennies for a State Park pass. You can park anywhere I think south of the pier + Bolsa Chica w/ the state park pass. I surf Magnolia street area at 7am a lot (mostly just to be crowds and stay out of other people's way) and I get my value out of the pass really fast. Also, how the fuck is this swell holy shit. Too rich for my blood right now.


haha glad to hear it!

Yeah, seconded about the state pass being worth it. I have been borrowing friends more recently and now I am on board. It was definitely bigger last weekend
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 27, 2021, 07:55:26 AM
You CA bros must be scoring some pretty decent south swell the last few days?

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on April 27, 2021, 07:57:20 AM
You CA bros must be scoring some pretty decent south swell the last few days?

Its pretty damn good. Sadly I havent been out at all. Two days were actually a little too big for me. I wont get out again until Friday. 
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on April 27, 2021, 10:22:54 AM
You CA bros must be scoring some pretty decent south swell the last few days?

Santa Cruz has been real nice.  I don't go to the big surf spots, but 1-2 foot waves have been real fun.  Also for some reason nobody has been going out when I do so it's like unlimited waves. 
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on April 27, 2021, 12:11:23 PM
Kinda bummed I leave CA for a few weeks right when this swell hits

>.<

Now Iím in NJ and remembering why I surfed so much less here. Always planning around way more fickle swell, wind, and temperature conditions. And waves often pick up after a storm so I have to decide if I really want to swim thru all the runoff. Iíve definitely gotten sick from it before...

But at least we arenít landlocked!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 28, 2021, 10:27:31 AM
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on April 28, 2021, 06:15:29 PM
Iím seriously impressed by anyone who can ride a shortboard.  I canít imagine surfing a board with 20L less than mine.  Did you step down progressively or just go for it one day and power through the learning curve?

Conditions have been pretty ass around here, but got out today and made some improvement on angling my takeoffs so I can trim down the line on small shitty waves, rather than try to bottom turn and bog out almost immediately.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on April 28, 2021, 07:53:18 PM
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness

Bought a 5'8 Lost Rocket redux recently to replace my 5'7 Rocket. Defs easier to hold speed out of turns, but from 27 to 29 litres makes it feel a bit boaty. At least it paddles well.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 28, 2021, 08:06:49 PM
Iím seriously impressed by anyone who can ride a shortboard.  I canít imagine surfing a board with 20L less than mine.  Did you step down progressively or just go for it one day and power through the learning curve?

Conditions have been pretty ass around here, but got out today and made some improvement on angling my takeoffs so I can trim down the line on small shitty waves, rather than try to bottom turn and bog out almost immediately.

You'd be surprised at how much volume you can cram into a 'short' board. This is an amazing time for surfboard design. The early 90s, when I learned was terrible. Super thin, highly rockered 6'0 to 6'6"s... aka Slater's Glass Slippers. more volume just meant going longer. Those boards were dog shit in anything but perfect shoulder high and above waves.

I have a 5'8" right now that has more volume than my 6'2". The hardest part of surfing shorter boards is just the timing on take off. But with some skateboard ability and if you're reasonably fit, once you dial in wave-catching, take offs and pop ups on a shortboard, its not really harder than surfing a mid length or longboard... just a different approach.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on April 28, 2021, 08:13:21 PM

You'd be surprised at how much volume you can cram into a 'short' board. This is an amazing time for surfboard design. The early 90s, when I learned was terrible. Super thin, highly rockered 6'0 to 6'6"s... aka Slater's Glass Slippers. more volume just meant going longer. Those boards were dog shit in anything but perfect shoulder high and above waves.


It really is an amazing time for board design. I started in '91 so I remember well those stupidly thin, stupidly rockered boards. Real bad when your young, broke, and have a one board quiver that was. Having said that, the proliferation of mid-length boards has been a blight on our oceans.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 28, 2021, 08:23:19 PM
Haha, agree on the mid lengths.... Full disclaimer... I have to admit I did surrender and I have 7'2" kind of similar to the Channel Islands mid length. In winter in Northern Oregon there is really only one consistent spot. It has a heavily localized point break populated by short boarders and really fun big fat peak on the inside that is populated by experienced long boarders. Lots of water, lots of paddling in thick wetsuits. I decided to split the difference to enjoy this spot and the mid length has been a savior for my winter wave count. It kind of functions as a semigun for me also.  but generally speaking, anywhere else I like high volume short boards in the 5'8" to 6'5" range. 

I learned on a 6'10" "short' board but soon stepped down to 6'4"s. But again way too long, narrow and thin for the waves I learned in (UK).... Would love to send some boards back in a time machine to my teenage self.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on April 28, 2021, 09:37:09 PM
Careful now. Before you know it you could be riding a mal and snaking all and sundry.  ;D
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on April 28, 2021, 10:35:23 PM
Cmon man my shoulders are fucked
I get sore sometimes, depends on the spot but I couldnít give a fuck if some old cunts got a single fin
Itís fucking Noosa man

Some of those glass jobs back in the day were hectic
Ultor stitch up
Your feet would just go through the fucking things

I was thinking about grabbing an alaia off Tom, just be good to have sort of thing
Anyone had a go on one?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on April 29, 2021, 07:17:02 AM
Expand Quote
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness
[close]

Bought a 5'8 Lost Rocket redux recently to replace my 5'7 Rocket. Defs easier to hold speed out of turns, but from 27 to 29 litres makes it feel a bit boaty. At least it paddles well.

Grabbed a 5'4"  Round Nose Fish Redux recently at 27 liters compared to my average 24
Lot's of fun
running it with the Twin plus Trailer MR set and it feels really fast but I haven't been able to totally adjust my timing and foot placement after growing up on thrusters my whole life

How are you liking the Rocket? I always wanted one and I like the pointier nose outline compared to RNF
I was thinking thr 5'5" im like 135 pounds
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on April 29, 2021, 03:57:20 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness
[close]

Bought a 5'8 Lost Rocket redux recently to replace my 5'7 Rocket. Defs easier to hold speed out of turns, but from 27 to 29 litres makes it feel a bit boaty. At least it paddles well.
[close]

Grabbed a 5'4"  Round Nose Fish Redux recently at 27 liters compared to my average 24
Lot's of fun
running it with the Twin plus Trailer MR set and it feels really fast but I haven't been able to totally adjust my timing and foot placement after growing up on thrusters my whole life

How are you liking the Rocket? I always wanted one and I like the pointier nose outline compared to RNF
I was thinking thr 5'5" im like 135 pounds

I love it. I think I prefer the original Rocket to the redux though. Bit less boxy. 5'5 at your weight would work well in smaller stuff. I like to ride mine when it's a bit bigger also, hence the 5'8. They paddle great. Plenty of foam under the chest.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on April 29, 2021, 03:59:06 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness
[close]

Bought a 5'8 Lost Rocket redux recently to replace my 5'7 Rocket. Defs easier to hold speed out of turns, but from 27 to 29 litres makes it feel a bit boaty. At least it paddles well.
[close]

Grabbed a 5'4"  Round Nose Fish Redux recently at 27 liters compared to my average 24
Lot's of fun
running it with the Twin plus Trailer MR set and it feels really fast but I haven't been able to totally adjust my timing and foot placement after growing up on thrusters my whole life

How are you liking the Rocket? I always wanted one and I like the pointier nose outline compared to RNF
I was thinking thr 5'5" im like 135 pounds
[close]

I love it. I think I prefer the original Rocket to the redux though. Bit less boxy. 5'5 at your weight would work well in smaller stuff. I'm only slightly heavier, but I'm 5'11 and I like to ride mine when it's a bit bigger also, hence the 5'8. They paddle great. Plenty of foam under the chest.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 30, 2021, 09:29:47 PM
I apologize but it was another midlength single fin session today. The winter spot was pretty quiet because people seem to have moved on to the spring and summer spots. Lots of paddling but some overhead mush bombs provided enough room to cruise around on. some cheater fives possible while milking the inside section. Water is finally approaching mid-50s F also... Hoping to get the shortboard or twin fin out later in the weekend.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on May 01, 2021, 12:04:55 PM
Tried to surf some 6 footers today..

(http://64.media.tumblr.com/892b2516a9756e39b6c098f2be0922e9/tumblr_n1a72bzM3F1qaldqoo2_250.gif)

Every time I was either having to drop in vertically, or too deep to catch it despite paddling my ass off.  Stood up on a few just couldnít get the right position or turn quick enough to stay on the face.  I like to think even ďunsuccessfulĒ sessions will make me better in the long run, but it might be time to watch a few more YouTube tutorials.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on May 01, 2021, 05:42:05 PM
It seems like people go down bigger waves vertically quite often, but are able to bottom turn super quickly into the line. 
I longboard small waves so I can't relate lmao

I do have trouble cutting back on big boards though, anyone have tips?  I'm likely just not leaning into it with my hips enough but I'll take any suggestions.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 01, 2021, 07:31:12 PM
Tried to surf some 6 footers today..

(http://64.media.tumblr.com/892b2516a9756e39b6c098f2be0922e9/tumblr_n1a72bzM3F1qaldqoo2_250.gif)

Every time I was either having to drop in vertically, or too deep to catch it despite paddling my ass off.  Stood up on a few just couldnít get the right position or turn quick enough to stay on the face.  I like to think even ďunsuccessfulĒ sessions will make me better in the long run, but it might be time to watch a few more YouTube tutorials.

You want to drop in straight on bigger waves. Angled take offs can help you position well to stay on the shoulder but on a steeper bigger wave you can get pitched easier that way. hard to say what you were doing wrong without knowing how steep and fast the waves were. but you are right to paddle hard and fast, get in as early as you can, drop in straight and then really crank that bottom turn... might just have been poor closing out conditions that threw you off.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on May 02, 2021, 04:22:32 PM


I do have trouble cutting back on big boards though, anyone have tips?  I'm likely just not leaning into it with my hips enough but I'll take any suggestions.

How big is the board? Longboard, drop that back knee. Mid length, get yr foot right back and stomp on it as you carve. Throw your shoulders into it. Best advice though, get a shorter board.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on May 02, 2021, 08:17:31 PM
Expand Quote


I do have trouble cutting back on big boards though, anyone have tips?  I'm likely just not leaning into it with my hips enough but I'll take any suggestions.
[close]

How big is the board? Longboard, drop that back knee. Mid length, get yr foot right back and stomp on it as you carve. Throw your shoulders into it. Best advice though, get a shorter board.

9'6"...I will try the drop knee but it looks hard.

I do have a mid length but haven't gotten a chance to get it out in the water except on 1-2 ft days.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 03, 2021, 10:19:20 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/34MjCfD.jpg)

Yesterday afternoon. Got bigger and glassier after I paddled out. I mostly paddled around for hours but found a few and dodged a few tubes because I was sucking...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on May 03, 2021, 12:35:46 PM
woah

it got really fun here last thursday but I was stuck at work. Friday it was blown out pretty quick. Sat inside all weekend
madness
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 03, 2021, 01:40:58 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/34MjCfD.jpg)

Yesterday afternoon. Got bigger and glassier after I paddled out. I mostly paddled around for hours but found a few and dodged a few tubes because I was sucking...

Damn this looks beautiful. This is off the coast of Oregon?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 03, 2021, 03:51:46 PM
Yep. Oregon's Malibu.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on May 03, 2021, 05:23:11 PM
How are the crowds surfing around that way?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 03, 2021, 05:41:39 PM
Super busy at the handful of reliable spots these days but you can still surf alone if you know where and when to look. Early mornings and late evenings are still pretty chill. The problem is, even though we have a huge and accessible coastline there are very few reliable/ consistent spots. We get a lot of wind and storm swell, where you need headlands, jetties and coves to make sense of the surf. When the storm swell drops and cleans up and the wind goes offshore there are a lot of options but this doesn't happen often enough.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on May 03, 2021, 07:22:42 PM
Coasts like that are so frustrating.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Jagr on May 03, 2021, 10:50:21 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/34MjCfD.jpg)

Yesterday afternoon. Got bigger and glassier after I paddled out. I mostly paddled around for hours but found a few and dodged a few tubes because I was sucking...

Don't surf much, but love reading your posts in this thread. Maybe we'll have to skate one of the parks up here together soon. I like that Nehalem ramp best in the area. Isn't Pacific City getting a new Dreamland park soon?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 04, 2021, 05:48:26 AM
PC skatepark opens Memorial weekend. I'll probably avoid opening weekend but down to meet up out there after that some time.

You Portland based @jake18  ?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: sketchyrider on May 04, 2021, 05:58:26 AM
Coasts like that are so frustrating.

anything beats the east coast. we've had seasons where the gulf coast got more action.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Jagr on May 04, 2021, 09:31:55 AM
PC skatepark opens Memorial weekend. I'll probably avoid opening weekend but down to meet up out there after that some time.

You Portland based @jake18  ?

Up near South Bend / Raymond. But I come down your way quite a lot. I'll hit you up sometime in June!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 04, 2021, 05:54:51 PM
Squeezed in a dawn patrol this morning as I am on oncall lockdown this weekend. Got to dial in my new twin fin in some great shape waist to shoulder high glassy lefts (backside for me). Super fun, only a handful of people out and I mostly had a good peak to myself. Water is warming up a bit, a grey whale was playing around offshore and I got to tap into the speed and liveliness of a twinny. One of those sessions where everything comes together. Nothing epic but a great morning in the Pacific. Rinsed the piss out of my wetsuit in the river, tuna sandwich on the bluff and beat traffic back to to Val. Skateboard stayed in the trunk for once...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 07, 2021, 09:36:10 AM
Nice @Frank and Fred. sounds like an epic day!

I got out 3 times this week so far. The water in SoCal is so warm right now its amazing. Today was low wind and glassy, started to pick up size wise right as I needed to head out unfortunately. Caught some nice rights and feeling more comfortable carving up and down the line. Even got a big frontside turn that sprayed a bit. felt so damn good haha

I just pretend I am skating transition out there
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Some dude on May 07, 2021, 01:19:19 PM
Surfed when I was younger (uncles were big surfers and thought it was fun to throw kid me into the waves)Ölooking to start again..itís been years. Iím 5í11Ē..Iím sure  it possibly matters..but whatís the go to style/size board for re-beginner kooks my size?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 07, 2021, 02:23:57 PM
Honestly if I were 're-beginning' at this point I would say to grab a foam board around 8'0. They are made so much nicer nowadays than they used to be. seem pretty affordable brand new too

(https://www.secretspot.co.uk/images/24899-1.jpg)

or just grab anything around 7'6-8. Big enough to be stable/catch waves easily and not as hard to move around as a longboard
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 07, 2021, 02:33:53 PM
Agreed. There are some good quality and fun foamies these days. Get one over 7' and catch as many waves as you can. Then see what style of surfing you really want to pursue.

I always assumed skateboarders would mostly want to shortboard but Chico and Max Schaff are all about the single fin eggs and hulls. Pretty cool.

Bottom line: Foam is your friend... better to have a board that has too much float than too little.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Some dude on May 07, 2021, 02:40:25 PM
Honestly if I were 're-beginning' at this point I would say to grab a foam board around 8'0. They are made so much nicer nowadays than they used to be. seem pretty affordable brand new too

https://www.secretspot.co.uk/images/24899-1.jpg (https://www.secretspot.co.uk/images/24899-1.jpg)

or just grab anything around 7'6-8. Big enough to be stable/catch waves easily and not as hard to move around as a longboard

cool. Thanks for the info.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Some dude on May 07, 2021, 02:58:25 PM
Agreed. There are some good quality and fun foamies these days. Get one over 7' and catch as many waves as you can. Then see what style of surfing you really want to pursue.

I always assumed skateboarders would mostly want to shortboard but Chico and Max Schaff are all about the single fin eggs and hulls. Pretty cool.

Bottom line: Foam is your friend... better to have a board that has too much float than too little.

this is exactly why I ask. Iíve heard thatís what skateboarders naturally assume, but as far as surfing goes..short boards are actually a little more difficult to learn on. I feel like Iíve heard that before. You work on learning how to ride before getting into short boards..??
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 07, 2021, 03:16:50 PM
Exactly. Spend some time just catching waves, as many as you can. Get those paddle muscles and pop reflexes feeling good. Then learn to ride the open face and trim down the line. Once you are starting to think about getting some solid turns in, then you can decide longboard or shortboard.

I would avoid low-volume high performance shortboards unless you plan on ripping Indonesia or the North shore... Eggs, fishes, full volume stubbies... will all turn as hard as you can. There are so many ways to make shortboards fun with higher volume these days. Check out some of the shapes Danny Dicola makes for inspiration.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SatanicPanic on May 07, 2021, 03:20:24 PM
Expand Quote
Agreed. There are some good quality and fun foamies these days. Get one over 7' and catch as many waves as you can. Then see what style of surfing you really want to pursue.

I always assumed skateboarders would mostly want to shortboard but Chico and Max Schaff are all about the single fin eggs and hulls. Pretty cool.

Bottom line: Foam is your friend... better to have a board that has too much float than too little.
[close]

this is exactly why I ask. Iíve heard thatís what skateboarders naturally assume, but as far as surfing goes..short boards are actually a little more difficult to learn on. I feel like Iíve heard that before. You work on learning how to ride before getting into short boards..??
Iíve never really got the hang of a real short board but it only took a few years to ride a fish or a mini simmons. I know I am probably a kook but mini simmons feels like a skateboard
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: pugmaster on May 07, 2021, 03:51:52 PM
What do people do with their car keys when they go surfing alone?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Some dude on May 07, 2021, 03:58:53 PM
What do people do with their car keys when they go surfing alone?

Put them in your shoes with your wallet. No one ever knows they are in there
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 07, 2021, 04:02:58 PM
What do people do with their car keys when they go surfing alone?

Was much better without electronic keys. used to just hang it around my neck. now, I just stash it in a wheel well or in a roof rack pad. just pay attention to who's watching... you can also get  little key boxes with passcodes to attach under your car.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SatanicPanic on May 07, 2021, 04:14:02 PM
What do people do with their car keys when they go surfing alone?
Put the valet key in my wetsuit
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Wheelbyte on May 07, 2021, 04:36:28 PM
once everything is locked up
and then you sit on the sand and stretch
you can bury them
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: pugmaster on May 07, 2021, 04:47:17 PM
Thank you for the various ideas.  I'm kind of surprised that wet suits don't have stash pockets for keys.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SatanicPanic on May 07, 2021, 04:50:21 PM
Thank you for the various ideas.  I'm kind of surprised that wet suits don't have stash pockets for keys.
All of mine have. You just canít put the fob in there for obvious reasons but mine has a detachable dumb key, I lock the fob in the car.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 08, 2021, 11:08:52 AM
Expand Quote
Thank you for the various ideas.  I'm kind of surprised that wet suits don't have stash pockets for keys.
[close]
All of mine have. You just canít put the fob in there for obvious reasons but mine has a detachable dumb key, I lock the fob in the car.

yeah I would say every wetsuit that has been released over the last 15 years has a stash pocket for your key with a stretch tag to secure it.

My only car key is electric. Usually end up stashing deep in the wheel well. I need to get one of those hide-a-keys with the combo lock

this guy's style is unreal. highly recommended watching
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2JUb6dV8w4&list=FLhTgb4k6ycKhlIisdPFINpg&index=8&t=240s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2JUb6dV8w4&list=FLhTgb4k6ycKhlIisdPFINpg&index=8&t=240s)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on May 09, 2021, 09:28:00 AM
My electronic car fob is auto unlock and it's a feature you can't turn off (stupid), but it does have the physical key which I take with me into the water.  I take out the battery of the key fob every time and leave that in the car.  And yes, pretty much all wetsuits nowadays has a pocket for your keys.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on May 09, 2021, 09:42:57 AM
Bought a new Quiksilver Syncro 4:3 and if thereís a key pocket I havenít found it, guess thatís what you get when you cheap out.  I hide my main key in the wheel well and the spare stays in my leash pocket, should probably check to see how rusted/bent it is...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: nevrwasben on May 09, 2021, 11:32:20 AM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Thank you for the various ideas.  I'm kind of surprised that wet suits don't have stash pockets for keys.
[close]
All of mine have. You just canít put the fob in there for obvious reasons but mine has a detachable dumb key, I lock the fob in the car.
[close]

yeah I would say every wetsuit that has been released over the last 15 years has a stash pocket for your key with a stretch tag to secure it.

My only car key is electric. Usually end up stashing deep in the wheel well. I need to get one of those hide-a-keys with the combo lock

this guy's style is unreal. highly recommended watching
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2JUb6dV8w4&list=FLhTgb4k6ycKhlIisdPFINpg&index=8&t=240s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2JUb6dV8w4&list=FLhTgb4k6ycKhlIisdPFINpg&index=8&t=240s)
Yeah, heís sick.
I dig the wetsuit company he rides for too (need essentials), very minimalist aesthetic and super dope videos/team.
Everybody has super good style.
Theyíll probably be my 1st suit when I finally pull the trigger; hopefully soon.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on May 09, 2021, 12:37:41 PM
When I drive my own car (which is older) I put the valet key in a zip lock bag and stuff it in my wetsuit somewhere. I like against the small of my back, but an arm or a leg works fine too.

When I have a newer rental or I borrow my moms car (which has an electronic proximity key), I use one of those lock boxes on the trailer hitch. It came with an RF blocking metal-lined zip-lock that cancels out the proximity function. Hereís a link: https://www.surffcs.com/products/fcs-keylock

I would never do the wheel well, burying in sand, or any of that stuff. Maybe itís just paranoia from growing up near a fairly scummy NJ beach (seaside heights), or from surfing in LA where tons of homeless people and tweakers camp out on or near the beaches.

And on the topic of learning: I started on a 7í6Ē foamie and kinda hated how soggy and heavy it was. Progressed down to a 6í6Ē 2+1 egg almost immediately. Maybe it slowed me down, idk. Now Iíve got another egg as well, but it has 5 fin boxes and I definitely find the thruster setup to be more skate-like. Would a quad be even more so?

And finally.. whatís up with the mini Simmons?? They look like they could be fun in shitty waves. Iím in the market for a groveler or something thatíll be really buoyant and fun in crap surf
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SatanicPanic on May 09, 2021, 06:01:51 PM
My Prius has Auto Unlock but what you do is turn it on, roll down the window, get out of the car, reach in from the window, lock it, turn it off, then hit the button to roll up the window. Thereís like a few second lag where you can roll them up after the car turns off. Dunno if other cars do that.

Related- one time my friend was making fun of one of those metal detector dudes, like ďwhat a stupid hobby.Ē I was like, yeah it is weird. Anyway an hour later Iím like, fuck my key fell out of my bag. I see that dude off the distance, I run over and ask he for help, he totally found my key. Lesson learned, those dudes are rad.

Also Torren Martyn is so good
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SK8houses on May 09, 2021, 11:15:50 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Thank you for the various ideas.  I'm kind of surprised that wet suits don't have stash pockets for keys.
[close]
All of mine have. You just canít put the fob in there for obvious reasons but mine has a detachable dumb key, I lock the fob in the car.
[close]

yeah I would say every wetsuit that has been released over the last 15 years has a stash pocket for your key with a stretch tag to secure it.

My only car key is electric. Usually end up stashing deep in the wheel well. I need to get one of those hide-a-keys with the combo lock

this guy's style is unreal. highly recommended watching
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2JUb6dV8w4&list=FLhTgb4k6ycKhlIisdPFINpg&index=8&t=240s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2JUb6dV8w4&list=FLhTgb4k6ycKhlIisdPFINpg&index=8&t=240s)
[close]
Yeah, heís sick.
I dig the wetsuit company he rides for too (need essentials), very minimalist aesthetic and super dope videos/team.
Everybody has super good style.
Theyíll probably be my 1st suit when I finally pull the trigger; hopefully soon.
I can say their suits are really good and a good price too. They donít have as much stretch as rip curl or OíNeil but NEED suits are very durable and warm. The liquid seam 4/3 is super warm. Being a skater I hate the surf branding logos so no logos on the suit are cool too.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on May 09, 2021, 11:42:43 PM
Torren is sick and so are twinnies

@mj23 I feel you, they have their uses but yeah canít beat fibreglass
If by skate like you mean loose trucks ish feeling and lots of turns top to bottom go the thruster all day

Iím aware the quad is more efficient I guess I havenít really used one enough?

Edit

I am probably gonna cop shit for this cause theyíre played out but have a look at hypto krypto by hayden shapes
Big fat thing but if you only had one board you could do a lot worse
You can get em in a 5 fin setup so you can have a fiddle between quad and thruster
I reckon youíd go the futures fin boxes
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on May 10, 2021, 10:37:14 AM
What do people do with their car keys when they go surfing alone?

clip the caribeaner to my frame in my wheel well.
Not the safest option but t's all I got so far. Helps that I drive a clapped out truck 
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on May 10, 2021, 10:43:47 AM
Torren is sick and so are twinnies

@mj23 I feel you, they have their uses but yeah canít beat fibreglass
If by skate like you mean loose trucks ish feeling and lots of turns top to bottom go the thruster all day

Iím aware the quad is more efficient I guess I havenít really used one enough?

Edit

I am probably gonna cop shit for this cause theyíre played out but have a look at hypto krypto by hayden shapes
Big fat thing but if you only had one board you could do a lot worse
You can get em in a 5 fin setup so you can have a fiddle between quad and thruster
I reckon youíd go the futures fin boxes

quads are weird. They are super fast in a straight line and really good for setting lines and covering ground. Also they feel great during a turn. They have some drawbacks though.

When you do a bottom turn, you will miss the third fin acting as a distinct pivot point. So if you are doing very top to bottom surfing it will feel weird or inconsistent. if you grew up or have a good amount of time on twins this will not bother you as much.

the other drawback is it is a lot harder to dial in a set of fronts and rears to fit you perfectly, where w a thruster there's a lot less thinking. Smaller back fin = looser.
W quads the have 50/50 foil rears, 80/20 foil rears, flat foil rears etc.

I like quads but I "messed up" my surfing for a year on them but I was also trying to surf in contests so I was very much going for the competitive standard at the time. I just was having inconsistency on my bottom turns which messed w my timing. This was on a standard shortboard

butttt if you are on either a super wide tailed groveler, or a long ass gun, quads will work best for you. I prefer a thruster in between.
sorry for the wall of text
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on May 10, 2021, 10:45:01 AM
A quad set can be just as good , see nathan fletcher.

I usually only ride them in small waves on wide flat boars

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 11, 2021, 11:40:56 AM
Agreed on quads. I like them on wide tailed grovelers and in reeling walled up conditions on a step up but they can be problematic in day to day stuff. The back fin placement is pretty crucial. You can make a quad feel more thruster like if the back fin boxes are closer to the stringer and more parallel or more fish/ twin like if they are closer to the rail with more toe (angled).

Super stoked on my twin right now. Its a little sketchy until you've made a bottom turn and set your line but after that its like letting your mind tell your board where to go with some unreal speed to beat sections and it lets you climb up on the white water sections real nice... Pretty loose truck feeling.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 11, 2021, 11:47:29 AM
Curren is still my favorite (I really on watch him, Dane and Mason). Well into his 50s now but if you want a clinic on how to link turns... this is it... Mostly on twins I believe... While its rad to seem him get barreled out of his mind, I really like watching how he flows it all together in the smaller mellower sessions... Check 6m 53s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EguHmYWXpZ4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EguHmYWXpZ4)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on May 11, 2021, 02:51:03 PM
What do people do with their car keys when they go surfing alone?

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71J3n5HFhRL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-5400D-Combination-Portable/dp/B0002YP1VC/ref=asc_df_B0002YP1VC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167141158985&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=420070254190980967&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031598&hvtargid=pla-136275446692&psc=1


I have a hitch that it attaches to. I use it for surfing, snowboarding, mountain biking. Absolutely awesome.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on May 12, 2021, 02:17:12 AM
Curren is still my favorite (I really on watch him, Dane and Mason). Well into his 50s now but if you want a clinic on how to link turns... this is it... Mostly on twins I believe... While its rad to seem him get barreled out of his mind, I really like watching how he flows it all together in the smaller mellower sessions... Check 6m 53s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EguHmYWXpZ4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EguHmYWXpZ4)

Instant classic when this came out. Fucking amazing.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on May 15, 2021, 01:20:06 PM
Obigatory post
https://ibb.co/ygkFxd6
Got a few this morning, itís fucken baltic
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 16, 2021, 09:10:22 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUJob-Nw1ak (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUJob-Nw1ak)

Mason at the same spot as Curren. Got me motivated to chase a few later at high tide...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Skibb on May 17, 2021, 02:24:59 PM
Fun reading through this thread, getting some comparative context of surfing compared to skating. Just started last year after having thought about it for so fucking long. Used to swim competitively, so I thought it'd fit me like a glove... Well, fuck me, is it hard to make that board do what you wanna.
There's so much technique involved with a thousand things before stepping on the board even becomes relevant. you all know this, I'm just venting. That shit is tricky. And the ocean is a scary place, haha. Being in Sweden, we aren't spoiled with great spots either, so the sessions are few and far between. And nippy, even with a 5/4. Learning is tough compared to skating, not being able to just repeatedly try the exact same thing a thousand times until you get it.

What would be the best approach for a kook like me, with basically only shitty spots nearby? Can anybody relate?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 17, 2021, 04:01:24 PM
I can totally relate @Skibb

Oregon isn't Sweden and we have some good spots but its mostly cold, fickle and really tough to surf. I surfed last night and the water must have been about 46-48 F... Serious cold water upwelling going on.  The city was 81 F air temp for comparison.

Board choice is key. You need some volume for paddling that thick wetsuit in energy-draining cold water. And some boards that handle unpredictable and less than perfect conditions. What board are you on right now?

Your swimming background will really help. My main surf bud swam through school and university and he out-paddles everyone.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Skibb on May 20, 2021, 11:13:52 PM
I can totally relate @Skibb

Oregon isn't Sweden and we have some good spots but its mostly cold, fickle and really tough to surf. I surfed last night and the water must have been about 46-48 F... Serious cold water upwelling going on.  The city was 81 F air temp for comparison.

Board choice is key. You need some volume for paddling that thick wetsuit in energy-draining cold water. And some boards that handle unpredictable and less than perfect conditions. What board are you on right now?

Your swimming background will really help. My main surf bud swam through school and university and he out-paddles everyone.
Oh, sounds like we're in quite similar climates then.

I don't even have my own board yet, but I got to borrow a Modern 7'6" with like 70-80L volume and that worked damn well for a rookie like me. Boards are so crazy expensive though, Probably what's kept me from pulling the trigger until now.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on May 21, 2021, 07:08:36 AM
Fun reading through this thread, getting some comparative context of surfing compared to skating. Just started last year after having thought about it for so fucking long. Used to swim competitively, so I thought it'd fit me like a glove... Well, fuck me, is it hard to make that board do what you wanna.
There's so much technique involved with a thousand things before stepping on the board even becomes relevant. you all know this, I'm just venting. That shit is tricky. And the ocean is a scary place, haha. Being in Sweden, we aren't spoiled with great spots either, so the sessions are few and far between. And nippy, even with a 5/4. Learning is tough compared to skating, not being able to just repeatedly try the exact same thing a thousand times until you get it.

What would be the best approach for a kook like me, with basically only shitty spots nearby? Can anybody relate?

Major respect for learning in less-than-ideal conditions. I think super high volume and a good attitude are probably pretty key. Important to enjoy just being out on the water even if everything else kinda sucks. When I was first learning that was my vibe. Now that my expectations have risen in terms of my own performance, thatís changed a little, lol

As others have said ďfoam is your friend.Ē I recently visited family in NJ and picked up one of my older boards, which has a similar outline to the Lost Lazy Boy I enjoy as a daily driver out west, but the rails are super thin and the bottom contour is much more wobbly. Itís a lot harder to surf! I didnít realize at the time, I just bought it back in like 2013 based on being able to fit in my car, being cheap, and still being relatively floaty.

So I guess the takeaway from that anecdote is: take your time buying a board, try a few out, and save your cash until you get something that will really let you progress. I didnít know any better at the time, and while I had plenty of fun I over the last 8 years or so, I progressed a lot more once I made a little more money and got boards more suited to my ability.

On a somewhat similar note regarding learning in tough locations, Iím about to move to Texas where gulf conditions seem to be very fickle... but least it stays pretty warm. I think the move will be to watch wind direction really closely and just try to get out whenever itís offshore. But if anyone else knows better, please share!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on May 21, 2021, 04:07:33 PM
Expand Quote
I can totally relate @Skibb

Oregon isn't Sweden and we have some good spots but its mostly cold, fickle and really tough to surf. I surfed last night and the water must have been about 46-48 F... Serious cold water upwelling going on.  The city was 81 F air temp for comparison.

Board choice is key. You need some volume for paddling that thick wetsuit in energy-draining cold water. And some boards that handle unpredictable and less than perfect conditions. What board are you on right now?

Your swimming background will really help. My main surf bud swam through school and university and he out-paddles everyone.
[close]
Oh, sounds like we're in quite similar climates then.

I don't even have my own board yet, but I got to borrow a Modern 7'6" with like 70-80L volume and that worked damn well for a rookie like me. Boards are so crazy expensive though, Probably what's kept me from pulling the trigger until now.

Buy secondhand boards of the internet. You are a learner. Ya don't need anything flash.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on May 21, 2021, 08:33:31 PM
Depends on the region for sure but you can defz come up in the towns where thereís lots of surfers and or tourists, I am halfway talking out my arse here cause I donít know about other countries but thereís a couple people that have businesses where they drive boards up and down the coast here what I mean is if you havenít got much of a second hand market in your immediate area it might be a good idea to suss out second hand boards in areas you can drive to or close enough to something couriered to you

Covid probably fucked everything everywhere but used to be able to come up good on tourists leaving and trying to get rid of equipment
But youíd want to google things to look for, red flags sort of stuff cause easy to get burned on repairs with stuff
But yeah think outside the box and yeah, what Burt Ward said, itís not really like skating in the sense that a cheap setup or whatever is a no go

Itís real easy to do dumb shit with a surfboard without knowing, deadset best to just go through a bunch of second hand ones first
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on May 22, 2021, 09:22:08 PM
started to figure out how to release my fins tonight, feels just like a bs powerslide!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on May 24, 2021, 08:07:29 AM
started to figure out how to release my fins tonight, feels just like a bs powerslide!

duu it feels good dont it!

If you are having trouble getting them free, shift your weight to your front foot more to let the fins get a bit more free.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Andmoreagain on May 25, 2021, 08:17:40 AM
Man surfing seems so sick. Wish it wasn't such a big production to get into it here in the Northeast. My gf is getting really serious about moving to san diego for some reason. If we do it I'm totally gonna get one of those spong tops and kook it up.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: givecigstosurfgroms on May 30, 2021, 11:03:32 AM
Anybody into stand up paddling or foiling or anything? I guess shiddy unbroken waves (crowdless) are endless fun on a foil.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on May 30, 2021, 05:54:47 PM
STAND UP PADDLING? Get the fuck outta here. I'd rather ride a goatboat.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 31, 2021, 10:35:40 AM
Anybody into stand up paddling or foiling or anything? I guess shiddy unbroken waves (crowdless) are endless fun on a foil.

Keep the foils well away from other life forms and you're all good.

Just got back from a week on the road. Surfed a 9'4" single log, 6'2" twin and one session on my 6'5" shortboard. Nothing epic but got some fun waves at one of my favorite low key spots north of California. I'm not a long boarder but did have one pretty magical session where it started to click. Just my friend and I sharing long rights. Whales feeding on the outside and a couple of beaver waddling along on the beach. Recon'd a bunch of other spots for future missions.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: givecigstosurfgroms on May 31, 2021, 02:46:04 PM
  I do alot of flat water stand up paddling and its so nice doing it close along the shore.  Down winders are super fun.   Havent done it surfing yet tho.  I imagine you could grab all the  wide sets and never even sit out back where everybody would be hating on you.  I can't surf for hours anymore so suping would round it out.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on May 31, 2021, 04:38:51 PM
Iím planning to try SUPing in some rivers and lakes when I move to Austin in the fall but I donít think I could ever respect myself if I was paddling a SUP into waves at an actual surf spot. Iím also curious about other landlocked water board sports, like skimming or even wakesurfing... idk, I love swimming and Iím down to try some kooky honky shit if I need to. Even though it seems super lame and rednecky. Maybe thatís just my coastal elite bias crewing in, whatever
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rawr1922 on May 31, 2021, 06:13:34 PM
Dear MJ,
 
Don't underestimate the power of rivers. Be careful. Learned the hard way messing around in the Colorado River. Those currents no joke. Have fun & be safe
 
Also SUP is cool outside of California. Just so frowned upon there.. In Hawaii so fun & other states   
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: givecigstosurfgroms on May 31, 2021, 06:27:19 PM
Iím planning to try SUPing in some rivers and lakes when I move to Austin in the fall but I donít think I could ever respect myself if I was paddling a SUP into waves at an actual surf spot. Iím also curious about other landlocked water board sports, like skimming or even wakesurfing... idk, I love swimming and Iím down to try some kooky honky shit if I need to. Even though it seems super lame and rednecky. Maybe thatís just my coastal elite bias crewing in, whatever
 
 Maybe strange for me to defend suping on skating site since I don't even sup surf but in Hawaii so many respected surfers, pro surfers and whatnot have been heavy into sup surfing as well for some years now.  I think it's about seeing a little farther into the water kind of thing and understanding that it's a bigger playground if you've got an open mind.  My thing is that longboarders aren't much better then sup ers and I've been getting shitted on by them forever so fuck everybody if those dudes get tolerated.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SatanicPanic on May 31, 2021, 08:13:20 PM
Man surfing seems so sick. Wish it wasn't such a big production to get into it here in the Northeast. My gf is getting really serious about moving to san diego for some reason. If we do it I'm totally gonna get one of those spong tops and kook it up.
San Diego is fun man. I donít think Iíll ever leave.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on June 01, 2021, 06:06:04 AM
Dear MJ,
 
Don't underestimate the power of rivers. Be careful. Learned the hard way messing around in the Colorado River. Those currents no joke. Have fun & be safe
 
Also SUP is cool outside of California. Just so frowned upon there.. In Hawaii so fun & other states
Iíve watched SUP guys straight run over kids at surf spots in NY and NJ, just fully barging over some poor little gromsí heads and not even looking back, the kook factor is extremely high and I feel like it doesnít matter where you are, it shines thru. Nobody likes sharing a break with those guys. Probably because a lot of them never learned surf etiquette before they started SUPing their way into waves. A lot of them just flagrantly drop in on everyone around them as well. So despite the fact that I am looking forward to some inland SUPing I feel like the sport is kinda rightly frowned upon anywhere there is even a slight whiff of surf culture or lineup manners.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Doodily on June 01, 2021, 06:59:41 AM
Expand Quote
Dear MJ,
 
Don't underestimate the power of rivers. Be careful. Learned the hard way messing around in the Colorado River. Those currents no joke. Have fun & be safe
 
Also SUP is cool outside of California. Just so frowned upon there.. In Hawaii so fun & other states
[close]
Iíve watched SUP guys straight run over kids at surf spots in NY and NJ, just fully barging over some poor little gromsí heads and not even looking back, the kook factor is extremely high and I feel like it doesnít matter where you are, it shines thru. Nobody likes sharing a break with those guys. Probably because a lot of them never learned surf etiquette before they started SUPing their way into waves. A lot of them just flagrantly drop in on everyone around them as well. So despite the fact that I am looking forward to some inland SUPing I feel like the sport is kinda rightly frowned upon anywhere there is even a slight whiff of surf culture or lineup manners.

It's the same here in NC. Nobody likes surfing with SUPs because they catch the wave far out before it forms and then run over anyone actually sitting the in the lineup. The entry level into surfing is a lot higher than SUP. Therefore, as a surfer, you spend a lot of time watching and learning how the lineup etiquette works.

Also, SUPing is dangerous to surfers. With a surfboard (longboard or shortboard), I can either maneuver around someone or duck-dive my shortboard (roll my longboard) to get out of the way if I'm paddling out and someone is dropping in. If I'm dropping in, I can quickly carve around someone paddling out. SUPs are so big and bulky, SUPers mostly just go straight and either bail from their board which crashes into someone or just run over someone.

I enjoy SUP in the Gulf and when the surf is flat. But please, don't join a lineup with a SUP.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rawbertson. on June 01, 2021, 10:27:47 AM
I have never seen surfing IRL in Ontario Canada
I really want to try it
i googled and apparently kincardine, ON is the "surf capital" of my province. i have been there, some small waves, apparently oyu can do surf lessons. i am gonna try it this summer , hope i can stand up lol
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on June 01, 2021, 09:31:18 PM
@rawbertson great lakes have some really nice waves when the wind blows right. Ottawa river has a wave if you're near there.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on June 02, 2021, 06:42:18 AM
Looking at the MSW forecast for the next week, no swell periods longer than 7s, small wave heights, mostly cross/onshore moderate winds... Iím beginning to think the North Atlantic is a pretty shitty spot condition-wise.  And when it is good thereís 98% chance Iím working.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Skibb on June 02, 2021, 12:34:22 PM
Expand Quote
Dear MJ,
 
Don't underestimate the power of rivers. Be careful. Learned the hard way messing around in the Colorado River. Those currents no joke. Have fun & be safe
 
Also SUP is cool outside of California. Just so frowned upon there.. In Hawaii so fun & other states
[close]
Iíve watched SUP guys straight run over kids at surf spots in NY and NJ, just fully barging over some poor little gromsí heads and not even looking back, the kook factor is extremely high and I feel like it doesnít matter where you are, it shines thru. Nobody likes sharing a break with those guys. Probably because a lot of them never learned surf etiquette before they started SUPing their way into waves. A lot of them just flagrantly drop in on everyone around them as well. So despite the fact that I am looking forward to some inland SUPing I feel like the sport is kinda rightly frowned upon anywhere there is even a slight whiff of surf culture or lineup manners.

Hey, speaking as a total noob here again: what are good lineup manners and etiquette? Any rules of thumb to stick to?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 02, 2021, 12:41:35 PM
Glad you asked...

(https://www.surfertoday.com/images/stories/surfingetiquette.jpg)

-if someone is standing up and riding before you, it is their wave. The person closest to the most critical section 'the peak' has priority over the person on 'the shoulder.'

-if you get a good one, chill out and let someone else take priority position before you start jostling for priority again. if you blow your wave, tough luck, you start at the back of the rotation again... if there is a rotation... don't be greedy.

-if you stumble on a remote low key spot and there are already people on it. let them have it or wait until they leave.

-never bail your board. there are very few times you need to let that thing go. imagine you don't have a leash and act that way.

-don't put yourself into a situation you cannot swim out of. leashes and boards break. you can only rely on yourself.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on June 02, 2021, 03:54:06 PM
Glad you asked...

(https://www.surfertoday.com/images/stories/surfingetiquette.jpg)

-if someone is standing up and riding before you, it is their wave. There person closest to the most critical section 'the peak' as priority over the person on 'the shoulder.'

-if you get a good one, chill out and let someone else take priority position before you start jostling for priority again. if you blow your wave, tough luck, you start at the back of a rotation again... if there is a rotation... don't be greedy.

-if you stumble on a remote low key spot and there are already people on it. let them have it or wait until they leave.

-never bail your board. there are very few times you need to let that thing go. imagine you don't have a leash and act that way.

-don't put yourself into a situation you cannot swim out of. leashes and boards break. you can only rely on yourself.

If you think for one second that you are gonna get in someone's way as you are paddling out, don't scratch for the shoulder, paddle into the whitewater and get the fuck out of the way. I can't stress this enough.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on June 02, 2021, 04:40:44 PM
Also you know how youíre skating a small park, having a good time when suddenly a couple cars rock up disgorging a whole crew and you think fuck here we go, it was so peaceful before

Same diff surfing itís pretty shitty to arrive and paddle out as one, looks like youíre there to try dominate the place

Donít surf in packs, paddle out by yourself or with one other mate, there are probably different takes on this around the world but threeís pushing it I reckon

Heaps of people that surf are fairly friendly a fair bit of the aggro you hear about would be same type of shit all of us would have told someone off at a skatepark for

Depends on the area for sure but if the waves are good and you donít know anyone and you blow your first takeoff people are 100% gonna snake you on the next good wave and thatís fair as

Honestly anyone wants to have a go and knows nothing about it and no mates that surf just get a couple lessons they should explain most of this and youíd get like instant feedback on what youíre doing right and wrong

Honestly if you get a board and for first time try go where others are surfing you probably wonít have a good time and youíll feel a bit silly

It will 100% make you think of all the times you vibed someone at a skate park haha

If you go on kookslams or similar youíll see heaps of people having a go and getting absolutely pumped
Doesnít need to be like that

Also yeah itís a real bad idea to paddle through the waves people are surfing
At some point even the most tolerant person will just think nah fuck it thatís the fifth time thatís happened this morning, Iím not hopping off
Then they run you over
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on June 02, 2021, 08:46:34 PM
If you are learning, and this should be obvious, don't go out in a crowd. You don't need good waves. Surf somewhere quiet. It's better for everyone.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on June 02, 2021, 11:35:57 PM
I don't know what the etiquette is on this, but I just got back from a night surf, been going a lot lately after dark, and there were two dudes out there with headlamps, like high beams 400 lumens or something. Bugged the heck out of me.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on June 03, 2021, 08:38:48 AM
Regarding etiquette I think skaters with a bit of experience sharing parks or ramps will probably be able to intuitively figure out some of the basics, like for gods sake donít just circle endlessly and prevent other people from using the spot (this is probably the biggest issue for people with SUPs).

If you arenít a local, stop and observe for a while before you barge straight into the center of the action. Spend some time on the shoulder picking off lesser waves while you warm up so that you donít piss everyone off by blowing a good set wave as soon as you show up.

Paddle for the whitewater instead of the shoulder when youíre caught inside and someone is already ridingó really important and something I didnít learn as soon as I should have, definitely had to live with some kook shame after getting the stink eye for this one when I was starting out.

And of course donít drop in on someone elseís wave when theyíre already going. Probably really obvious to most skaters because you already know not to just drop into a bowl while someone else is skating. I think there are *some* grey areas, like a chaotic skate jam or an insanely crowded kooky party wave destination like Malibu first point... but best to err on the side of caution, lest you get a fin to the face (probably by accident, but also maybe on purpose).
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: SatanicPanic on June 03, 2021, 09:32:07 AM
Depends on the area for sure but if the waves are good and you donít know anyone and you blow your first takeoff people are 100% gonna snake you on the next good wave and thatís fair as
Thatís kinda bullshit though and the difference between skaters and surfers. Surfers think they own things cause they happen to be there often. I wouldnít be like ďsorry dude you donít get any more turns on this ramp cause you blew your first 50-50Ē.

I dunno I love surfing but I try to avoid other surfers both on the beach and in life because I know Iím not very good and unlike skaters theyíre dicks about it.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 03, 2021, 09:36:41 AM
I love surfing but I try to avoid other surfers both on the beach and in life

That right there is the best advice. Surf culture has as an amazing history with interesting characters. And no doubt there are still cool people involved but the culture as a whole is worth avoiding especially compared to skateboarding.

Its a shame surfing's popularity never took a dip like skateboarding... its just gets more and more popular with all manner of kooks.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on June 03, 2021, 01:52:00 PM
Expand Quote
Depends on the area for sure but if the waves are good and you donít know anyone and you blow your first takeoff people are 100% gonna snake you on the next good wave and thatís fair as
[close]
Thatís kinda bullshit though and the difference between skaters and surfers. Surfers think they own things cause they happen to be there often. I wouldnít be like ďsorry dude you donít get any more turns on this ramp cause you blew your first 50-50Ē.

I dunno I love surfing but I try to avoid other surfers both on the beach and in life because I know Iím not very good and unlike skaters theyíre dicks about it.

Iím not very good either letís get that out of the way
But what I meant was waves are finite resource, ramps at a skatepark are always there and always the same ramp every time you skate it
Massive difference
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on June 03, 2021, 08:12:23 PM
I don't know what the etiquette is on this, but I just got back from a night surf, been going a lot lately after dark, and there were two dudes out there with headlamps, like high beams 400 lumens or something. Bugged the heck out of me.

Thatís crazy I have heard of people doing that on mushrooms in Bali like when itís a full moon so itís bright
I would be pretty worried about sharks at night around here, you see any sharks or are there none of the types that go people where you surf
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on June 03, 2021, 09:35:09 PM
Expand Quote
I don't know what the etiquette is on this, but I just got back from a night surf, been going a lot lately after dark, and there were two dudes out there with headlamps, like high beams 400 lumens or something. Bugged the heck out of me.
[close]

Thatís crazy I have heard of people doing that on mushrooms in Bali like when itís a full moon so itís bright
I would be pretty worried about sharks at night around here, you see any sharks or are there none of the types that go people where you surf

I'm out on a river, the St. Lawrence. A whale came up here last year but no sharks so mercifully don't have that fear. There are big fish jumping right now as they migrate, no lie one jumped over/onto the nose of my board under the full moon last week. It shocked me, a bit scary then amazing, and it definitely occeurred to me that I was glad that there was nothing bigger. I never think about what's beneath the surface, except when it's me.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on June 03, 2021, 10:36:52 PM
Thatís loose but yeah sick
Iím pretty scared of bull sharks and being in the water around packs of fish
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on June 04, 2021, 09:14:08 AM
The light would probably attract fish too, nonono lol

I've tried night surfing and it is hard to see the waves coming in, you just get lifted up randomly
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 06, 2021, 06:00:08 PM
Surfed after sunset many times but never intentionally had a night session. Had a sundowner on Friday. Pretty lackluster waves when we pulled up but it glassed off so nice while we were watching and waiting. A rarity in Oregon to see milk glass conditions. Was probably waist to shoulder high and not very powerful but my new twinnie was just the ticket. Got some really satisfying turns. Lots of people out but so many waves so the crowd wasn't an issue. Surfed for about three hours. Water is warning up a tad also. Beer on the beach and then back over the coastal mountains to the Val in the dark.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Freelancevagrant on June 07, 2021, 05:07:05 PM
***unrelated sentimental post***

Got to go body surfing this weekend and it was fucking great to be back in the water.

I had to pick up a new set of fins, hydro ogís. Iím not crazy about them, but they worked well and Iíll keep em as a back up. I left my Churchill pros back in Austin and I wasnít going to drive 4 hours back to get them.

It was like waist high and mushy, about as good as it gets for summer time in Texas. I was with my best friend from the marine corps. Bodysurfing/regular surfing is sort of how we stayed (relatively) sane throughout our contract. He introduced me to bodysurfing with trays, which is still one of my favorite ways to fuck around in the water. This was the first time we paddled out together in 9 years, but he just moved to austin so there will be plenty more. Heís from Oahu and his dad is bit of a local celebrity because he hosts a cable access show called boating basics. About ten years ago his dad made us some hand planes, which I still use. Attached is a picture of the hand plane he made.

Tl/dr: I went bodysurfing with a friend

(https://i.loli.net/2021/06/08/8prmAFwJLKEboBs.jpg)
(https://i.loli.net/2021/06/08/X3gtOonFlQKPxeR.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on June 07, 2021, 07:12:15 PM
Bodysurfing is legit as, the plane looks dece too
Itís sick to run gear that you canít just go buy at the shop
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 07, 2021, 07:17:23 PM
Body surfing is Ace. Such a great way to enjoy surfing without all the bullshit. Just pure unadulterated fun. I have a pair of fins I use whenever I come across a thumpy shore break. Unfortunately, I am usually in cold water and its not always so enjoyable getting thrashed in 5mm wettie. I think if I lived in warmer climes I'd be body surfing almost as much as I board surf. Rad looking hand plane @Freelancevagrant I've yet to try one.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Freelancevagrant on June 07, 2021, 07:34:02 PM
Body surfing is Ace. Such a great way to enjoy surfing without all the bullshit. Just pure unadulterated fun. I have a pair of fins I use whenever I come across a thumpy shore break. Unfortunately, I am usually in cold water and its not always so enjoyable getting thrashed in 5mm wettie. I think if I lived in warmer climes I'd be body surfing almost as much as I board surf. Rad looking hand plane @Freelancevagrant I've yet to try one.

Trust me, I completely understand my dude. Iíve gone bodysurfing when it was snowing and only had a 3/2 and some fin socks (lasted about 30 min). That shit was absolutely brutal. But, it was too good to pass up. I still joke about how fucking cold it was with the same buddy I went with last weekend.

When I was younger, I would paddle out in every condition if it was pumping. Shit, back when me and Jake (my aforementioned best bud) were stationed on the east coast, we paddled out as both hurricanes sandy and Irene approached. In retrospect it was incredibly dumb, but if we were in the shape we used to be, we would do it again. That shit was unreal.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on June 13, 2021, 10:23:12 PM
I don't think my contacts would like body surfing lol

I came up on Offerup this week.  Some guy was selling a brand new Egg for 700 that he didn't even put a single speck of wax on.  Apparently he just started surfing and the longest thing they had in stock was 8'4".  Instead of just trying it out, he just decided to sell it.  Wild

https://mollusksurfshop.com/products/84-wegener-wegg-2-1

Came with the Greenough fin that he bought too.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Freelancevagrant on June 14, 2021, 03:30:19 AM
I don't think my contacts would like body surfing lol

I came up on Offerup this week.  Some guy was selling a brand new Egg for 700 that he didn't even put a single speck of wax on.  Apparently he just started surfing and the longest thing they had in stock was 8'4".  Instead of just trying it out, he just decided to sell it.  Wild

https://mollusksurfshop.com/products/84-wegener-wegg-2-1

Came with the Greenough fin that he bought too.

Yeah dude, contacts and bodysurfing donít match up. I rotate between contacts and regular spectacles but when I know Iím going to be a torpedo person for the weekend I go no contacts (or glasses obvi) despite my atrocious vision.

Also mollusk is my favorite surf shop on earth.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on June 14, 2021, 05:49:17 PM
I haven't bodysurfed anything over 1 ft since I started wearing contacts in the water. Better be wary when I do. Do you guys lose many when yr surfing? Hardly ever happens to me, but I'll usually tuck a couple into my wetsuit sleeve just in case. I did lose 2 at once hitting cross chop when paddling one time. That sucked.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on June 14, 2021, 07:33:39 PM
I haven't bodysurfed anything over 1 ft since I started wearing contacts in the water. Better be wary when I do. Do you guys lose many when yr surfing? Hardly ever happens to me, but I'll usually tuck a couple into my wetsuit sleeve just in case. I did lose 2 at once hitting cross chop when paddling one time. That sucked.

Funny timing, my friend I surf with was just telling me one fell out when he paddled in a couple days ago. he looked down and saw it on the sleeve of his wetsuit and managed to pop it back in on the wave!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on June 16, 2021, 09:03:39 AM
storm swell for texas this weekend, trying to decide if I should drive down to Corpus or stay up in galveston/surfside
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Freelancevagrant on June 16, 2021, 09:35:38 AM
storm swell for texas this weekend, trying to decide if I should drive down to Corpus or stay up in galveston/surfside

Surf side for sure
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on June 16, 2021, 11:49:59 AM
looking bigger in surf side, although I enjoy how clean corpus gets, bob hall or packery

Crowds are worse down there though
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on June 17, 2021, 07:59:53 AM
Are there any good surf cams for breaks in Texas? Iím about to move to Austin and it seems like you need to become amateur meteorologist if you want to score gulf waves, plus the 4+ hour drive... so anything would help, and the Surfline app only has a cam for Matagorda
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on June 18, 2021, 09:02:37 AM
https://www.galveston.com/webcams/seawallvideocam/

there are several on here for Galveston

looks like fun this weekend although not as big as I was planning for tomorrow or Sunday
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on June 20, 2021, 05:14:35 AM
https://youtu.be/KV5I99jEKUs

This is pretty funny
If you smoke weed some some weed then watch, just with the music itís pretty hypnotic
Those Hawaiians are on to some shit
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: givecigstosurfgroms on June 22, 2021, 11:35:51 AM
The hand planes look cool and shit but maybe just go ahead with a boogie board at that point.   Any shortboarders out there try boogie boarding?  I'd love to try that too I bet it would be crazy fun.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on June 22, 2021, 03:43:17 PM
@matty_c  that vid gives me the creeps, it's facinating but I can't even imagine being in that heavy a stew.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on June 22, 2021, 07:18:18 PM
Haha yeah itís suss as, but fascinating is a good way to describe it...Not my cup of tea either
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Freelancevagrant on June 22, 2021, 08:23:06 PM
That shit looks hella hectic but so fun
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 23, 2021, 07:54:06 AM
Just got off a week on-call that ended with a last minute graveyard shift and 24 hours no sleep. Anyway, woke up wide awake at 5am yesterday and decided to jump in the North Pacific for a cleanse despite a lackluster forecast. A crossed-up combo swell was running. Short period NW with some sporadic long distance SW swell. hit Oregon's Malibu and it was relatively quiet. People must be returning to work. Paddled out away from the pack to hit this little right-hand wedge by myself only to hear, "Sorry to paddle up on you. I just moved here from California." Dude was nice but he followed me around peak to peak, chatty Larry. Anyway, eventually found a really nice A-frame and ran into a friend I have not seen in two years. We basically had the peak to ourselves for just shy of three hours. It was overhead on the peak, then opening up to Long shoulder high walls (lefts were better, backhand for me forehand for her) Still on my twin fin. God I love that board. Its like an enhanced connection between my mind and my feet. Lots of waves. Back in the City by 1ish. Went to work, a little sunburnt, crispy and smelling slightly of piss. Slept like a log last night but now have  a stiff back....
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on June 23, 2021, 08:37:47 AM
Sounds like a solid session!  I deleted my kook post asking about yesterdayís forecast.. but I went out and it was sick.  2ft @ 16s and 3ft @ 7s made for conditions unlike anything Iíve seen yet.  Instead of the usual few breaking spots, it looked like one massive C-shaped swell coming in.  The short swell ruined a lot of waves, but when they lined up it was head high and had serious power behind them.  Love when I can pull a late take off and free fall for a second before hitting the water.  I donít rip hard enough to do very sharp turns on my 7í4, but getting better at stalling near the top of the face and dropping back down.

Side note... anyone else get soreness in the centre of their chest?  Canít tell if itís from how I pop up, paddle, back arch, work related, or all of the above.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Freelancevagrant on June 23, 2021, 08:58:42 AM
Sounds like a solid session!  I deleted my kook post asking about yesterdayís forecast.. but I went out and it was sick.  2ft @ 16s and 3ft @ 7s made for conditions unlike anything Iíve seen yet.  Instead of the usual few breaking spots, it looked like one massive C-shaped swell coming in.  The short swell ruined a lot of waves, but when they lined up it was head high and had serious power behind them.  Love when I can pull a late take off and free fall for a second before hitting the water.  I donít rip hard enough to do very sharp turns on my 7í4, but getting better at stalling near the top of the face and dropping back down.

Side note... anyone else get soreness in the centre of their chest?  Canít tell if itís from how I pop up, paddle, back arch, work related, or all of the above.

There is damn near no better feeling than pulling off an nasty elevator drop.

To answer your question, I started getting what felt like a sore solar plexus after I broke a couple ribs. I asked a buddy of mine who fucking charges but had 0 medical expertise what is causing it or if theyíre related. From what he told me he had no clue if the two were related because heís not a fucking doctor. But he said he thinks it was related to how I pop up and how I duck dive. His advise was to not round my back when I take off and use a little bit more chest when I duck dive.

I doubt this helps but, itís all I got.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 23, 2021, 09:07:45 AM
I've had some pectoral pain from paddling for hours on end that feels like sore chest.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Francis Xavier on June 23, 2021, 11:07:56 AM
The chest pain is definitely a combo of duck diving "wrong" and paddling a shitload...at least for me. Every now and then I get it.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on June 23, 2021, 11:56:16 AM
saturday drove down to corpus, waves were fun, chest high with 50 of my best friends out at 8 am lmao

The crowd was pretty tame though and caught some fun ones

RNF w Twin trailer setup is okay, fast but not as spontaneous as thruster.

Did a whole bunch of long floaters, felt like mason ho lol
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on June 25, 2021, 11:15:58 AM
If you were wondering what the best surfing clip you could watch today is.. I give you Jonah Hill dropping in on a dude and riding away like geriatric zombie.

http://www.instagram.com/p/CQhUmwAFKa4 (http://www.instagram.com/p/CQhUmwAFKa4)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: sketchyrider on June 25, 2021, 11:48:40 AM
If you were wondering what the best surfing clip you could watch today is.. I give you Jonah Hill dropping in on a dude and riding away like geriatric zombie.

http://www.instagram.com/p/CQhUmwAFKa4 (http://www.instagram.com/p/CQhUmwAFKa4)

why would you post yourself burning some guy lol
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 29, 2021, 08:23:17 AM
Over-amped an air the other evening (no I can't really do them) and landed on my fin on my 5'8" Stretch Superbuzz. That board always makes me try...

Anyway, I usually do my own ding repairs but I'm not fucking with blown out fin boxes.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on June 29, 2021, 08:26:16 AM
Yea take the fin box to a professional. Im pretty handy and wont touch them lol

Nice, pics of that beast? Stretch makes a mean board.
Looking at a new board for my bday

thinking Stamps, or a Chemistry, or a Kechkle
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 29, 2021, 08:51:05 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/DXKQ7E6.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/yxrBl7M.jpg)

I've had this for a good few years and will likely ride it into the ground. A bit more yellow with a couple of repairs on it since this photo. Not sure I could justify the price of a Stretch these days. Amazing boards though.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on June 29, 2021, 09:59:48 AM
that looks so fun, whats the low end on that bad boy?

also is that a glosh polish!? drool
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 30, 2021, 09:20:22 AM
No polish. Its more on the grovelly end. I think its actually pretty close to the Grovel Buzz. So as long as there is a little shape and push it goes. In saying that it handles some juice also. Highly recommend everyone get at least one Stretch in their surfing life.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on July 05, 2021, 01:36:32 PM
Just paid $100 for this handshaped epoxy egg, which in Canada where similar boards are $600+ new, seems way too good to be true.  Itís 7 x 22 x 3, and pretty thick all throughout so itís definitely a bit of a boat, which for my weight/level isnít a bad thing.  Glassed on wood fins make me a little nervous but Iíll try to be careful.  Gonna take off the weird grip pads and wax it.  Almost as excited to take it out as I am scared to tell my partner I bought a second board.

(http://i.ibb.co/BrFKPJV/14-EC5-E39-4836-49-F2-9368-1918-DA155307.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on July 05, 2021, 06:05:25 PM
Damn a hundred bucks, that's amazing.
Anybody have advice/technique for back 3s? just started learning them, I get a little past midnight but then sink. I heard you need to shift your weight forward of something? I'm on a pretty small wave, lots of foam, great for messing around.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on July 06, 2021, 01:29:18 PM
Damn a hundred bucks, that's amazing.
Anybody have advice/technique for back 3s? just started learning them, I get a little past midnight but then sink. I heard you need to shift your weight forward of something? I'm on a pretty small wave, lots of foam, great for messing around.

more weight on front foot as soon as you get past midnight

im not expert only done a few. Backside and into the lip like a fronside in skating right?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on July 06, 2021, 02:02:39 PM
Itís easier going slower, do it in the steepest section of the wave and try get your nose on top of the lip and put more weight on your front foot
The idea is to get the fins out a bit

I donít mean like you need a hectic wave at all the one you described sounds great but yeah maybe try visualise one of those see saws at a playground and like see saw your nose up onto the lip then back on to tail as you come past 180


If you focus on doing 180s, or actually just a little bit past 180 and youíre not going too fast, as you get weight back on back foot the fins sort of catch and the wave just brings the board back around anyway

That board is sick for 100 mate good come up
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on July 06, 2021, 10:09:25 PM
I appreciate the advices, yeah lemonchicken bs turn then frontside into the lip like you said.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on July 07, 2021, 06:56:52 PM
Update on the hundred dollar board... itís trash.  Took it out in some decent 3-5ft waves, and couldnít understand why the waves kept rolling over the tail no matter how far up I moved when paddling.  Finally was able to pop up on a couple and would just bog out.  It felt like surfing a Kleenex box.  Had no play and didnít ďfit in the waveĒ.

Went to the nearby surf shop, bought some wax, and asked buddy working if heíd be willing to give me his opinion on it.  He took out a 2í level and pointed out how the bottom was completely flat, also, how the rails were basically square except for the slight bevel on top and bottom.  He said the shaper did next to nothing but shape the nose and tail.  I felt like a dummy.  Thought I understood board physics a little better than that.  Hoping I can sell it for what I paid to a lightweight beginner who just wants to go straight in shorebreak.

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on July 08, 2021, 07:31:55 AM
Finally tried a quad fin setup on my lost lazyboy. Harder to pivot turns than thruster but the extra speed is enough that I could get in and out of a surprising amount of waves and sections that would have given me a hard time in the past. I think I can see why someone earlier was saying too much quad time was detrimental to their surfingó it definitely worked like a crutch for some of my poor positioning/bad form/inexperience. I see how a center fin creates drag now and Iím more interested than ever in trying new configurations, shapes, etc.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: foureyedjim on July 08, 2021, 08:28:34 AM
Update on the hundred dollar board... itís trash.  Took it out in some decent 3-5ft waves, and couldnít understand why the waves kept rolling over the tail no matter how far up I moved when paddling.  Finally was able to pop up on a couple and would just bog out.  It felt like surfing a Kleenex box.  Had no play and didnít ďfit in the waveĒ.

Went to the nearby surf shop, bought some wax, and asked buddy working if heíd be willing to give me his opinion on it.  He took out a 2í level and pointed out how the bottom was completely flat, also, how the rails were basically square except for the slight bevel on top and bottom.  He said the shaper did next to nothing but shape the nose and tail.  I felt like a dummy.  Thought I understood board physics a little better than that.  Hoping I can sell it for what I paid to a lightweight beginner who just wants to go straight in shorebreak.

This is exactly why I never pay any mind to the ďlocal shapersĒ selling their entire stock on Craigslist.  The quality really varies and Iím not going to drop money on an experiment. 
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on July 10, 2021, 05:54:15 PM
Ahh spewing haha, now that you mention it yeah it looks mad square...just sell it to someone bro, put it up online for 350
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on July 10, 2021, 08:10:48 PM
Oh I couldíve made a huge profit easy.  Was even offered an 8í Southpoint worth like 500 for it.  Wish I was ruthless like that, but just couldnít bring myself to rip anyone off worse than I was.  Put it back up for 100, and sold it to some girl and a carload of her friends, who reassured her it was a ďgreat boardĒ.  I predict itíll be back up for sale soon, or stored in a closet for years to come.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on July 20, 2021, 02:30:21 AM
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRQmeZeH5Q5/?utm_medium=copy_link

This is pretty rad, itís a new twin fin by dhd
Mick fanning is very good on it
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on August 07, 2021, 08:58:58 PM
watched videos a bunch of you posted (psychic migrations etc.), felt inspired, and landed my first 360 tonight (just on the  lip of a small foamy wave, not airborne). felt great. is there a name for that trick?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on August 13, 2021, 08:32:34 PM
nice dude! its a 360 or rotation, I can never spin all the way around I go backwards then revert back

unless you mean the ones where you turn inward like a backside revert those are a bit easier
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on September 24, 2021, 07:25:13 AM
flat spell. I feel like I get more and more manic until I can surf again.

Skating helps some
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Landmine on September 24, 2021, 11:19:05 AM
I'd love to learn how to surf.  I spent a few days on the Oregon coast and chilled with some dudes from a surf shop up there, that got me a bit interested in trying it out.  But a) I live in Austin so it's not really convenient and b) I can't fucking swim lol.

Maybe one day if I find myself on the coast again I'll rent some gear and grab floaties.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on September 24, 2021, 11:29:23 AM
I'd love to learn how to surf.  I spent a few days on the Oregon coast and chilled with some dudes from a surf shop up there, that got me a bit interested in trying it out.  But a) I live in Austin so it's not really convenient and b) I can't fucking swim lol.

Maybe one day if I find myself on the coast again I'll rent some gear and grab floaties.
funny enough i just moved to austin a month ago. it's not easy to surf when you live here but its still totally possible. i already drove down to the gulf to surf once. it was terrible but still fun, and i'll probably do it again pretty soon. where there's a will, there's a way.

but you definitely gotta learn to swim first
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Landmine on September 24, 2021, 11:40:19 AM
Expand Quote
I'd love to learn how to surf.  I spent a few days on the Oregon coast and chilled with some dudes from a surf shop up there, that got me a bit interested in trying it out.  But a) I live in Austin so it's not really convenient and b) I can't fucking swim lol.

Maybe one day if I find myself on the coast again I'll rent some gear and grab floaties.
[close]
funny enough i just moved to austin a month ago. it's not easy to surf when you live here but its still totally possible. i already drove down to the gulf to surf once. it was terrible but still fun, and i'll probably do it again pretty soon. where there's a will, there's a way.

but you definitely gotta learn to swim first

Where did you go?

My wife and her friends want to take a trip to Galveston in a few weeks at some point, I know there's "waves" there.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on September 24, 2021, 12:21:43 PM
i went and scoped a few spots around corpus christi/port aransas. you might know more than me if you're an actual texan but i believe christi is both an easier drive (assuming you're coming from austin), and a cleaner beach than the galveston area.

this 2015 article about the scene at bob hall pier is a decent place to start. i had better luck and saw a lot more surfing at some other nearby spots, but i can't pretend to really know the scene:
https://www.surfer.com/features/around-the-bend/
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on September 24, 2021, 12:23:22 PM
theres that wavepool in Waco, BSR Ranch. That place looks really fun
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Landmine on September 24, 2021, 12:41:13 PM
theres that wavepool in Waco, BSR Ranch. That place looks really fun

The whole brain-eating-amoeba thing is kind of a turn off though
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on September 24, 2021, 12:52:30 PM
yeah that does seem like a turnoff. I didn't know about it. Other than that it does look fun.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on September 24, 2021, 01:02:50 PM
(https://i.ibb.co/syz749Q/751-CEA69-7-AEA-45-A2-BB54-F5467390-F31-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SRGSgw0)

Speaking of the gulf, I just got this Vernor Mini Simmons to make crappy little waves a bit more fun. People seem to hold them in pretty high regard. Havenít tried it out yet, hopefully soon
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on September 24, 2021, 02:56:09 PM
Nice board!  Gonna throw the Polar sticker on there?  Saw a local dude take a Krooked sticker and arrange it to say ďKOOKĒ on his board, thought that was pretty sick.

Flat spell here too, but might be able to catch some 2-3 footers tmrw.  Calling for 8ft @ 7s Sunday, 100% chance of rain and 24mph onshore winds.. not sure if thatís doable but might check it out.

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on September 24, 2021, 03:21:29 PM
Nah no sticker on the board atm, that sticker just chills in my surf kit in case I need to cover a little ding real quick
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on September 24, 2021, 06:32:43 PM
theres that wavepool in Waco, BSR Ranch. That place looks really fun
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on September 27, 2021, 05:39:41 AM
Surfed Ft. Pierce yesterday in Florida and there was a whole lot of sharks in the water. Bait fish everywhere too. Waves were choppy but I was able to surf my new board so it was good. Just too many sharks though, which made it a little frustrating. Last time I surfed north of my home (about a month ago), I went to walton rocks and a guy near got his foot bit off by a shark. It seems like theres more than ever recently.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on September 27, 2021, 06:10:00 AM
i went and scoped a few spots around corpus christi/port aransas. you might know more than me if you're an actual texan but i believe christi is both an easier drive (assuming you're coming from austin), and a cleaner beach than the galveston area.

this 2015 article about the scene at bob hall pier is a decent place to start. i had better luck and saw a lot more surfing at some other nearby spots, but i can't pretend to really know the scene:
https://www.surfer.com/features/around-the-bend/

ayo my hometown is corpus, Bob Hall pier gets reallys good, although it hasn't been as good and has been more fickle last few years. Packery Channel is more consistent and a slower wave. Usually a larger outside that has more longboards and then a dumpier inside that is fun. The crowds are usually bad here. A spot a lot of people sleep on is the seawall, the southside of packery channel over in front of the hotels gets fun. Port Aransas is fun although usually too slow to shortboard properly for me

Almost always better there than galveston. surfside and matagorda get pretty good too but i'd usually rather go to corpus.
living in houston now and the commute to galveston is a nightmare on the highway
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on September 27, 2021, 07:15:17 AM
Expand Quote
i went and scoped a few spots around corpus christi/port aransas. you might know more than me if you're an actual texan but i believe christi is both an easier drive (assuming you're coming from austin), and a cleaner beach than the galveston area.

this 2015 article about the scene at bob hall pier is a decent place to start. i had better luck and saw a lot more surfing at some other nearby spots, but i can't pretend to really know the scene:
https://www.surfer.com/features/around-the-bend/
[close]

ayo my hometown is corpus, Bob Hall pier gets reallys good, although it hasn't been as good and has been more fickle last few years. Packery Channel is more consistent and a slower wave. Usually a larger outside that has more longboards and then a dumpier inside that is fun. The crowds are usually bad here. A spot a lot of people sleep on is the seawall, the southside of packery channel over in front of the hotels gets fun. Port Aransas is fun although usually too slow to shortboard properly for me

Almost always better there than galveston. surfside and matagorda get pretty good too but i'd usually rather go to corpus.
living in houston now and the commute to galveston is a nightmare on the highway

Thanks for the tips! I found the currents to be brutal. Iíve never had to paddle so hard to surf 3 foot waves in my life. The only upside is that Iíve also never found duck diving so easy. Most of those waves donít have too much power and arenít too thick, at least compared to a comparable sized wave in the Atlantic or pacific. This is helpful because they come at you *constantly*.

I wasnít gonna name spots since I know some people donít like that... but since you already mentioned a few: I went to bob hall first, and it seemed like the north side of the pier was working better, but the current was so strong eventually I just decided to drift south for a while and catch some lesser waves without as much of a fight. Iím sure that itís all variable according to the insane winds yíall get down there, and changing all the time. North side packery channel was a little better and where I probably had the best luck. Also checked out Horace Caldwell but it didnít really look worth paddling out. Iíll scope out the seawall next time.

Iíve been swimming laps in a gym pool up here in Austin to try and get my shoulders ready for my next trip down there. When you Texas folks show up at other breaks you must be amazed at how much easier it is to stay in position, like taking off the ankle weights or something.

But in more immediate news, Iím going back to NY/NJ to visit family next week and hoping to score some proper tropical system swells. My old home breaks in NJ looked insanely fun on the cams over the weekend and I canít wait to get back out there.

So Iím gonna have to bring boards on an airplane, which Iíve never done before. Anyone have tips?

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on September 27, 2021, 09:35:57 AM
I wasn't going to name the spots...but they are super well known and the crowds here aren't like california.

Plus the terrible reliability of surf here keeps people away.

The short period swells are annoying, less power but constant duck diving etc. First time I went to San Clemente I couldn't believe it. Actual sets coming in, and long lulls.

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on September 28, 2021, 06:11:59 AM
This is North Packery in early June
Going for a front side floater here, this board is a little over volumed but it makes the floaters so fun. In typical fashion I had a killer one right before this and he didn't get a pic and i barely made this weird late one
(https://i.imgur.com/GO72rUS.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on October 02, 2021, 09:15:29 PM
Love a floater @lemonchicken91 . Seem to be way easier on twin fins for me for some reason.

Just got back from a five day run, camping and surfing mostly solo in a remote part of the PNW. Scored one of my favorite spots three days in a row. It wasn't epic but had some good moments. Got shit smacked out of me going for a decent shore breaky tube. Nice to do nothing but surf and sleep outside for a few days...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on October 03, 2021, 07:46:11 AM
Sorry to share my kook tales when most of you actually shred, but after 3 years of surfing I finally got my leash ripped off me and it def sucked.  Got held down twice in row, for probably only 5-10 seconds each time but it felt longer, just made sure to keep cool and not panic.  Iím an okay swimmer, but damn itís not easy trying to get to your board in a 4/3 and boots after getting worked.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on October 03, 2021, 06:25:20 PM
Youíll be right mate
A couple years ago we drove up to nationals and the bro wanted to surf the bar, pumping and messy, so we drove around re parked
I had been up all night on the rack and was legit having a snooze between sets and at some point I went for one and bitched it and full went over the falls it was heinous

Lost the board off that and this old cunt on a longboard said you want to paddle in with me and I said nah all g just swam it but I tell you it was close like I didnít realise at the time but when I stood up on the sand I was fucked and cunts were looking at me all smh

It didnít feel like it but I was easy ten mins off drowning it wears you out bro and you donít even realise

No ego but if I was a tourist I would have drowned offshore that day, 100%

TLDR, donít fucken paddle out on a big day when you been up all night on the bag
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on October 03, 2021, 08:16:57 PM
Leashes are great but:

-they sometimes break
-they aren't an excuse to ditch your board
-they aren't an excuse to put put yourself into a situation you can't swim out of.

This is more to remind myself than criticize anyone else...

it's sometimes fun to surf without a leash to see how you handle things. Not recommended around other people but give it a go on a mellow day first. Feel the zen.

I don't longboard often but when I do I can never bring myself to put a leash on a log.

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on October 03, 2021, 10:15:51 PM
I rate surfing without a leash I mean I got em but yeah 100 on what you said mate

You way get better without a leash, just it pisses cunts off
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on October 04, 2021, 05:45:52 AM
had to surf south beach without a leash yesterday because the surf was so full of sargasso. Wearing a leash with that means paddling with an extra 20 pounds strung to your leash. I hate the stuff. No board ditching or loss though, it was small and easily manageable.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on October 04, 2021, 06:17:24 AM
I was running a Twin/Trailer MR set on that lost RNF Redux. So fun to floater on, I don't love twins though, the speed is there but you have to adjust your timing and I don't enjoy that when I get on those dumpier inside sections.

Actually have a sketch story month or so ago.
Storm swell was filling in in Galveston and it was crazy current. Waves messy and chaotic still not huge.
I paddle out next to pier and get pulled under pier.

whatever no biggie. I duck dive a wave as I'm getting to the outside area and come up and cant move...
My leash is wrapped around a football sized chunk of barnacles.

Shit.. Okay Ill pull it off. No Dice.

I'm on the other side of the pier now leash stuck so I rip it off my ankle no big deal.
Then I realize my board will NOT come off the pier. I'm not leaving my board on the pier and I'd rather drown than get rescued.

 So I'm holding my board getting smashed by waves into the pylon somehow avoiding barnacles by putting my arm stiff arm as high as I can reach on the pylon (my fins and board ate most of the damage)
Trying to undo that Velcro part where my leash is on my board felt like an eternity, every time I almost had it I had to secure myself for another wave. Got it and paddled in didn't even catch a wave. My board was all scraped up but I somehow avoided any major barnacle gashes. Shook me for a few weeks.

no matter how experienced you are the ocean will whoop that azz for free. Much shame.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on October 04, 2021, 09:37:06 PM
damn lemon, bad luck/ good instincts
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on October 05, 2021, 06:34:05 AM
Leashes are great but:

-they sometimes break
-they aren't an excuse to ditch your board
-they aren't an excuse to put put yourself into a situation you can't swim out of.

This is more to remind myself than criticize anyone else...

it's sometimes fun to surf without a leash to see how you handle things. Not recommended around other people but give it a go on a mellow day first. Feel the zen.

I don't longboard often but when I do I can never bring myself to put a leash on a log.

I have an 11' glider and have been pretty thankful for the leash at some points. I thought it was going to really hurt someone once when i fell and it rocketed straight towards a girls face.  leash stopped it in time though.  my wife has been surfing a lot longer than me though and really only accepts a leash if she is on her shortboard

the surf here in the southeast has been really fun.  been getting out on my 7' single fin egg.  so much fun after a summer of gliding.  I would like to get something the next step down towards shortboard. smaller bonzer or something
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on October 05, 2021, 07:13:04 PM
Just an opinion but I did't like the Bonzers I tried as grovellers. They do better with some power. I like wide tailed quads for 'step-downs.'

I'm sure The Campbell Bros can make boards for small waves but something about a big center fin feels like an anchor in weak surf. Quads, Twins free things up a bit and keep your turns spicy.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on October 13, 2021, 03:15:40 PM
just wanted to post up in here and say that I despise rich assholes with hydrofoils and most SUP peeps(stand up paddle boarders)

Some SUP people are older and this is their way of staying active and I can respect that as long as they're respectful and not trying to snake every wave

Also I ordered a midlength 7'1 single fin egg. It should be finished in about two months, can't wait for it
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on October 13, 2021, 03:22:35 PM
You are correct on all fronts. Single fins can be tough to master properly but on the right wave that allows you to plan out some turns they feel great. Getting a nice Greenough 4A flex fin for your board?

I've been stuck on my 7'6" Twin fin... its just cheating at this point. Hoping to skip work next week for a shortboard mission...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on October 13, 2021, 03:37:41 PM
^this is what I have been told by friends. I am going to have to be patient with this board and take the time to really understand it

I haven't decided on a fin - is the Greenough something that you'd recommend? TBH my knowledge on fins isn't that great. I need to do more research. I was lowkey banking on whatever the shaper recommended haha

7'6 twin fin sounds so fun. My buddy has a twin fin in a similar size and I have had a blast anytime I have caught a wave on it.

We had an oil spill out here in Southern California so I haven't been out in almost two weeks. I think imma go out this weekend though
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on October 14, 2021, 07:12:09 AM
^this is what I have been told by friends. I am going to have to be patient with this board and take the time to really understand it

I haven't decided on a fin - is the Greenough something that you'd recommend? TBH my knowledge on fins isn't that great. I need to do more research. I was lowkey banking on whatever the shaper recommended haha

7'6 twin fin sounds so fun. My buddy has a twin fin in a similar size and I have had a blast anytime I have caught a wave on it.

We had an oil spill out here in Southern California so I haven't been out in almost two weeks. I think imma go out this weekend though

I really like the Greenough fins.  I have a 8" Greenough on my 7' egg and it is really fun, I was a little unsure of the size at first but it is what the shaper ordered for it so i thought I would see.  holds the board solidly.  I tried a smaller Greenough in it but the board felt too loose and it  seemed harder to generate power
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on October 14, 2021, 07:14:38 AM
Just an opinion but I did't like the Bonzers I tried as grovellers. They do better with some power. I like wide tailed quads for 'step-downs.'

I'm sure The Campbell Bros can make boards for small waves but something about a big center fin feels like an anchor in weak surf. Quads, Twins free things up a bit and keep your turns spicy.

Ok, I will keep that in mind.  my friend has a Campbell brothers I will ask him about.  I thought about going mini simmons as an alternative.  planing hull seems fun.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on October 14, 2021, 10:07:00 AM
Expand Quote
^this is what I have been told by friends. I am going to have to be patient with this board and take the time to really understand it

I haven't decided on a fin - is the Greenough something that you'd recommend? TBH my knowledge on fins isn't that great. I need to do more research. I was lowkey banking on whatever the shaper recommended haha

7'6 twin fin sounds so fun. My buddy has a twin fin in a similar size and I have had a blast anytime I have caught a wave on it.

We had an oil spill out here in Southern California so I haven't been out in almost two weeks. I think imma go out this weekend though
[close]

I really like the Greenough fins.  I have a 8" Greenough on my 7' egg and it is really fun, I was a little unsure of the size at first but it is what the shaper ordered for it so i thought I would see.  holds the board solidly.  I tried a smaller Greenough in it but the board felt too loose and it  seemed harder to generate power

Nice, sounds like mine is going to be a super similar setup!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on October 14, 2021, 10:18:41 AM
I also use an 8" Greenough Flex 4A in my 7'2" egg (kind of  like the Devon Howard model) and it seems like the right amount of fin for that length but really I prefer it as a 2+1. Way easier to surf.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on October 14, 2021, 12:59:00 PM
Just got back from 2 weeks in NY and NJ.

Caught hurricane Sam in Rockaway which was pretty darn bad. There was so much hype for such a choppy mess, plus it happened over a weekend so the crowds were horrific. I saw someone lay hands on a SUPer who was being a danger to himself and others.

Managed to catch some pretty good sessions once I left NYC and got to Jersey. There were times when I had a peak to myself on clean little 3ft days, perfect for just cruising down the line on my new mini Simmons, going over the shoulder, paddling back out, and instantly getting another. Conditions that would have been a crowd nightmare under other circumstances, but not down the shore once tourists have left.

Now back to watching the Gulf of Mexico forecasts to see if I can manage to score down there sometime.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on October 14, 2021, 02:00:09 PM
Can't ask for more than some solo clean shoulder high peelers. Sounds fun. @mj23

Its officially La Nina which typically means pretty crappy surf for Northern Oregon with only a limited spot or two offering any consistency.

Hopefully I can get some missions North and South, on the go but that's hard in shitty weather.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on October 23, 2021, 03:12:30 PM
I was running a Twin/Trailer MR set on that lost RNF Redux. So fun to floater on, I don't love twins though, the speed is there but you have to adjust your timing and I don't enjoy that when I get on those dumpier inside sections.

Actually have a sketch story month or so ago.
Storm swell was filling in in Galveston and it was crazy current. Waves messy and chaotic still not huge.
I paddle out next to pier and get pulled under pier.

whatever no biggie. I duck dive a wave as I'm getting to the outside area and come up and cant move...
My leash is wrapped around a football sized chunk of barnacles.

Shit.. Okay Ill pull it off. No Dice.

I'm on the other side of the pier now leash stuck so I rip it off my ankle no big deal.
Then I realize my board will NOT come off the pier. I'm not leaving my board on the pier and I'd rather drown than get rescued.

 So I'm holding my board getting smashed by waves into the pylon somehow avoiding barnacles by putting my arm stiff arm as high as I can reach on the pylon (my fins and board ate most of the damage)
Trying to undo that Velcro part where my leash is on my board felt like an eternity, every time I almost had it I had to secure myself for another wave. Got it and paddled in didn't even catch a wave. My board was all scraped up but I somehow avoided any major barnacle gashes. Shook me for a few weeks.

no matter how experienced you are the ocean will whoop that azz for free. Much shame.

Thatís wild bro
I guess we all in diff areas so diff spots for all of us - no bullshit Iíve never been anywhere near a pier, fully just do point breaks and beach breaks, no reefs no nothing and itís always nice warm water
Full country club type shit now I think about it

When I was a kid we were leaving the beach just at pumicestone passage, itís just a swimming spot
Anyway it was like last jumps into the water weíre going home and I fully scraped my knee on a barnacle or oyster or whatever, like it was fine but defz cut me open

Anyway, yeah so Iím scared of sharp pointy things no lie

I have seen videos of people shooting a pier I think they call it
Thatís some fucking old school shit hey, I donít think Iíd be comfortable trying that hey bro
Respect

This came up on insta the other day

Mad little barrel ay!

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CVTax0HhdX7/?utm_medium=copy_link
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on October 28, 2021, 05:37:11 AM
Has anybody tried an Isuru wetsuit?  I just got a 2mil no zip from them that is supposed to be the same warmth as a 3/2.  It looks really nice and the reviews are really good.  Just have to wait for waves to try it.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on October 28, 2021, 09:32:47 AM
^I haven't but looking at them now. They look super nice. That is wild they are saying their 2mm is as warm as their 3/2! Never heard of that. Where are you located? water temp is dropping down here

I have been looking at getting a new suit recently too. I have had my rip curl 3/2 e bomb for a little over 2 years and it finally has a few holes in it. I have been trying to decide between getting another rip curl or trying out another brand. I have been super happy with my rip curl overall
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on October 30, 2021, 06:46:31 PM
Great session today. Left town in the dark and paddled out just after dawn. Classic October Oregon Dawn Patrol. Offshore winds grooming a nice 4' to 5' swell wrapping into a little cove. Long workable lefts for days. First shortboard session in months. Took out my 6'2" twin fin and did more turns than I have in a long time. Stoked. Might try again tomorrow before La Nina shuts us down again.

You CA guys must be scoring out of your minds....
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on November 01, 2021, 05:23:54 PM
I've been consistently hurting myself in the water recently, and continuing on surfing through the pain. Ah, the ravages of age.

Anyway, did a run to urbnsurf in Melbourne recently.

(https://i.imgur.com/EDk4HPb.jpg)

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on November 01, 2021, 05:29:18 PM
What camera is that bro
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on November 01, 2021, 06:19:34 PM
What camera is that bro

Dunno. It's the in-house photog at the pool
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on November 01, 2021, 06:28:06 PM
Expand Quote
What camera is that bro
[close]

Dunno. It's the in-house photog at the pool

Ohh yep makes sense, dece photo mate like itís focused sick

How do those wave pools go? They are doing one up this way but itís not open yet

I heard you get heaps of waves for the time youíre in there for
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on November 01, 2021, 07:20:21 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
What camera is that bro
[close]

Dunno. It's the in-house photog at the pool
[close]

Ohh yep makes sense, dece photo mate like itís focused sick

How do those wave pools go? They are doing one up this way but itís not open yet

I heard you get heaps of waves for the time youíre in there for

It's pretty sick. Pretty weird wave. No real power up top, so off the lips etc have to be nursed a little. It'll expose any weaknesses in your surfing no doubt. I think 18 sets come through an hour, and if it's not a full sesh, you'll get a wave every set. Even if it is, you'll only miss 3 or 4 waves.  Heaps of Barneys out there over-estimating their skill level getting in the way though. Fucking annoying. Barrel setting is pretty sweet I must say.

(https://i.imgur.com/Q8P0DNF.jpg)

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on November 01, 2021, 07:36:03 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
What camera is that bro
[close]

Dunno. It's the in-house photog at the pool
[close]

Ohh yep makes sense, dece photo mate like itís focused sick

How do those wave pools go? They are doing one up this way but itís not open yet

I heard you get heaps of waves for the time youíre in there for
[close]

It's pretty sick. Pretty weird wave. No real power up top, so off the lips etc have to be nursed a little. It'll expose any weaknesses in your surfing no doubt. I think 18 sets come through an hour, and if it's not a full sesh, you'll get a wave every set. Even if it is, you'll only miss 3 or 4 waves.  Heaps of Barneys out there over-estimating their skill level getting in the way though. Fucking annoying. Barrel setting is pretty sweet I must say.

(https://i.imgur.com/Q8P0DNF.jpg)

Yeah bro, that looks alright for a man made tube hey!

I wanna try it out one day, thereís just nothing like that near me

Tried at that Darwin one but itís like a kids wave pool you get told off for standing up haha, itís not like a proper surfing one
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on November 02, 2021, 07:46:41 AM
What's Greta"s take on wave pools?

Not sure I could ever bring myself to try one.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on November 02, 2021, 08:53:00 AM
This weekís time change means itíll be dark when I get off work, which means Iíll be restricted to the odd weekend session until it changes back next spring.  Sucks but at least I got a few decent waves in yesterday.  My closest spot has LH point break and an A-frame, thought I was being smart by ditching the left for the A when it started getting crowded, but eventually did the paddle of shame back over once I realized it wasnít working. 

Another weird thing happened, some random out of towner guy with an Australian accent (def not matty), paddled out and immediately asked me where this other local break was.  I knew vaguely where it was, but told him I was just a beginner and had no idea, which was half true.  Iíve been at it for 3 years and never outright asked another local where a spot was.. am I a dick for not telling him, or was he being a little too forward with his request?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on November 02, 2021, 01:00:27 PM
  Another weird thing happened, some random out of towner guy with an Australian accent (def not matty), paddled out and immediately asked me where this other local break was.  I knew vaguely where it was, but told him I was just a beginner and had no idea, which was half true.  Iíve been at it for 3 years and never outright asked another local where a spot was.. am I a dick for not telling him, or was he being a little too forward with his request?
 

Absolutely NOT a dick. When somebody asks me shit like this, I will politely explain that i can't tell them that, or I'll get killed.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on November 02, 2021, 02:27:21 PM
I wouldn't give that info out either. My friend who lives and surfs on a remote stretch of the Oregon coast will only take me to his spots he won't give me names or directions. "I can't tell you but I'll show you." No way a stranger is getting any intel. The internet makes that shit all too easy anyway.

One of my regular spots is a 15 minute hike in and I love when people ask me how it was back in the car park. I try to be nice but my usual response is "You're about to find out" or "I had to walk down and check and so should you." Or "Got a longboard?" and walk away...

Surfers suck. I don't want to make their lives any easier.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: matty_c on November 02, 2021, 06:11:15 PM
Yeah honestly cunts are on to it like anyone can google anything I probably would just say ĎI donít know broí
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on November 02, 2021, 06:38:43 PM
Probably a noob question, I am after all a noob. Drove out to Lake Ontario with some friends because there were high winds these past couple days. It was fun but I after a couple hours I started to feel nauseous. Earlier this summer I surfed another wind swell spot and the same thing happened, I got seasick. Anybody know if this is common, or have any tricks to deal with it?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on November 03, 2021, 06:53:15 AM
Finally got some waves over 1' on halloween, and didn't see a single shark this time around, and was able to surf a board I recently finished making. I think I maybe would move the center fin back about 1/2" whenever I repeat this board build. It's pretty loose as is so I wound up going with a large fin set when I normally surf mediums in most conditions. Other than that it seems really fun with a mellow single concave all the way through and a flat deck.


(https://i.ibb.co/ZJt065R/watermellon-web.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZJt065R)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on November 03, 2021, 07:13:00 AM
Probably a noob question, I am after all a noob. Drove out to Lake Ontario with some friends because there were high winds these past couple days. It was fun but I after a couple hours I started to feel nauseous. Earlier this summer I surfed another wind swell spot and the same thing happened, I got seasick. Anybody know if this is common, or have any tricks to deal with it?
Do you also get seasick when surfing other spots/conditions? Are you thinking it has something to do with the combo of windswell and freshwater? Does it happen in the ocean as well?

I brought a skate friend surfing once, and he got seasick after 30 min or so, just from floating around in the Atlantic

I sometimes get seasick on like fishing boats and such, but thankfully Iíve never had a problem when surfing
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on November 03, 2021, 08:31:04 AM
Probably a noob question, I am after all a noob. Drove out to Lake Ontario with some friends because there were high winds these past couple days. It was fun but I after a couple hours I started to feel nauseous. Earlier this summer I surfed another wind swell spot and the same thing happened, I got seasick. Anybody know if this is common, or have any tricks to deal with it?

I used to get that! I actually put it down to what I eat for breakfast before surfing. I used to eat a lot of bread. Now I don't. I also make sure to be pretty well hydrated and neck down a coconut water before paddling out (stops the cold water cramping).

Got a little nauseous the other day but I had had a shitty breakfast, paddled out at dawn, forgot my coconut water and surfed over three hours, non-stop paddling and surfing at a spot that is notorious for floating bird shit.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on November 03, 2021, 04:01:26 PM
Finally got some waves over 1' on halloween, and didn't see a single shark this time around, and was able to surf a board I recently finished making. I think I maybe would move the center fin back about 1/2" whenever I repeat this board build. It's pretty loose as is so I wound up going with a large fin set when I normally surf mediums in most conditions. Other than that it seems really fun with a mellow single concave all the way through and a flat deck.


(https://i.ibb.co/ZJt065R/watermellon-web.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZJt065R)


are you in aus? jesus christ if 'seeing a shark' was a regular thing for me I would most likely never surf haha. Of course I am aware of their existence and understand I am in their habitat but ignorance is bliss

This weekís time change means itíll be dark when I get off work, which means Iíll be restricted to the odd weekend session until it changes back next spring.  Sucks but at least I got a few decent waves in yesterday.  My closest spot has LH point break and an A-frame, thought I was being smart by ditching the left for the A when it started getting crowded, but eventually did the paddle of shame back over once I realized it wasnít working. 

I'm with ya. getting darker earlier sucks. The sunrise also being later makes it harder for me to get out before work now. On that note I did get off work earlier yesterday and had a great afternoon session and got out of the water when it was practically dark out. kinda glassed off around that time and made for such a fun session
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on November 04, 2021, 07:55:14 AM
Im in Florida.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: sketchyrider on November 04, 2021, 09:11:03 AM
Im in Florida.

Florida is cursed, the most consistent spot there is literally the shark bite capital of the entire world. its also gotten more and more crowded, for some pretty meh waves
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on November 04, 2021, 10:06:39 AM
Expand Quote
Im in Florida.
[close]

Florida is cursed, the most consistent spot there is literally the shark bite capital of the entire world. its also gotten more and more crowded, for some pretty meh waves

Yeah NSB looks fun a lot but way too many sharks.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Fongstarr. on November 04, 2021, 10:20:39 AM
So I stumbled upon the Surfline IG and noticed Mavericks was going off when we had our storm here in the Bay Area. Dumb question but are waves normally higher and better after a rain storm? We have another storm next week and I sort of want to take some surf photos if the waves get high again.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on November 04, 2021, 12:54:53 PM
Not neccsarily. In fact storms can really mess the surf up. Mavericks seems to like big NW swells. So if Alaska and the PNW are getting hammered by giant winter swells, Mavs could be on. If the storm is too close it can mess the surf up. Generally speaking you want the source of the storm to be hundreds of miles away (this is called fetch). This is why the PNW suffers with a lot of crummy winter storm surf. We are too close to the source. In CA you are often blessed with a longer fetch.

Rain can impact rivermouth sandbars. There are a few classic rivermouth surf breaks that get good after heavy rain but in CA they are notorious for pollution.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on November 04, 2021, 12:57:24 PM
i bought a 6'-4" mini simmons with glassed in fins today.  Made by a local shaper and I have 2 of his boards, an egg and a glider, that I really like so I am looking forward to trying it.  Also bought a Isurus 2.2 mil wetsuit that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3/2 so if we ever get good waves it should be fun.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on November 04, 2021, 01:02:10 PM
i bought a 6'-4" mini simmons with glassed in fins today.  Made by a local shaper and I have 2 of his boards, an egg and a glider, that I really like so I am looking forward to trying it.  Also bought a Isurus 2.2 mil wetsuit that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3/2 so if we ever get good waves it should be fun.

sounds sick! got any pics? also what size is your egg and how do you like that?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Fongstarr. on November 04, 2021, 01:20:13 PM
Not neccsarily. In fact storms can really mess the surf up. Mavericks seems to like big NW swells. So if Alaska and the PNW are getting hammered by giant winter swells, Mavs could be on. If the storm is too close it can mess the surf up. Generally speaking you want the source of the storm to be hundreds of miles away (this is called fetch). This is why the PNW suffers with a lot of crummy winter storm surf. We are too close to the source. In CA you are often blessed with a longer fetch.

Rain can impact rivermouth sandbars. There are a few classic rivermouth surf breaks that get good after heavy rain but in CA they are notorious for pollution.

Thanks for the input. I guess I'll just check on websites the day before to see if it is worth going out.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on November 04, 2021, 02:01:18 PM
Expand Quote
i bought a 6'-4" mini simmons with glassed in fins today.  Made by a local shaper and I have 2 of his boards, an egg and a glider, that I really like so I am looking forward to trying it.  Also bought a Isurus 2.2 mil wetsuit that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3/2 so if we ever get good waves it should be fun.
[close]

sounds sick! got any pics? also what size is your egg and how do you like that?
Yeah man post pics if you can, I'd love to have a look. I got a 6'2" x 22.6" x 2.9" x 46L vernor mini sim a few months ago and it's pretty fun, although i know a lot of people believe mini simmons boards should be a good bit smaller in order to get the proper experience. do you generally ride high volume boards? i do, because i'm not all that skillful and only medium fit, hence the boatlike dimensions of my simmons

i've noticed that when i get a proper bottom turn in it will just take off and skate across the water like crazy, but if i don't pick the speed up properly right away it's easy to bog down the extremely fat nose. would love to try a smaller one, i could imagine the pumping might be paradoxically easier in some ways because you can just kind of manhandle the thing, but idk. either way a cool and wacky board, great for small waves and way easier to toss in my car than a longboard

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on November 05, 2021, 10:17:44 AM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
i bought a 6'-4" mini simmons with glassed in fins today.  Made by a local shaper and I have 2 of his boards, an egg and a glider, that I really like so I am looking forward to trying it.  Also bought a Isurus 2.2 mil wetsuit that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3/2 so if we ever get good waves it should be fun.
[close]

sounds sick! got any pics? also what size is your egg and how do you like that?
[close]
Yeah man post pics if you can, I'd love to have a look. I got a 6'2" x 22.6" x 2.9" x 46L vernor mini sim a few months ago and it's pretty fun, although i know a lot of people believe mini simmons boards should be a good bit smaller in order to get the proper experience. do you generally ride high volume boards? i do, because i'm not all that skillful and only medium fit, hence the boatlike dimensions of my simmons

i've noticed that when i get a proper bottom turn in it will just take off and skate across the water like crazy, but if i don't pick the speed up properly right away it's easy to bog down the extremely fat nose. would love to try a smaller one, i could imagine the pumping might be paradoxically easier in some ways because you can just kind of manhandle the thing, but idk. either way a cool and wacky board, great for small waves and way easier to toss in my car than a longboard

Yeah I ride high volume boards.  I am 6'-4 200lbs and moderately skilled. 

The minisimmons is definitely going to be a weird board but I am looking forward to it.  I like the whole idea of planeing hulls At 6-4 this seems like it is outside of the normal realm of minisimmons and when I had talked to the shaper about a bigger simmons a few years ago he though they got sketchy over 6' but I guess he changed his mind.   The resin is supposed to look distressed
This is mine:
(https://i.imgur.com/zAKqgdi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WCb88Hi.jpg)

His more normal minisimmons:
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-krvCTirek4Y/TnvkQ0N5OrI/AAAAAAAAADw/cvVasVI-zdg/s1600/sept.2011+003.JPG)


My egg is 7' and really fun. single fin very thick.  similar to this one but one color.

(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3JSIdBULc0s/TxeSokyzrmI/AAAAAAAAAHM/3oo6LBKccYU/s1600/mid+jan+2012+010_crop.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on November 09, 2021, 04:47:58 PM
Latest pickups;

(http://www.wetsuitwearhouse.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/5mm-quiksilver-highline-neogoo-wetusit-gloves-black.jpg)

(http://internetfusion.imgix.net/1025917.jpg)

Couldnít financially justify balling out on OíNeil, Xcel, or Solite gear.. hoping these will do the trick for a few good winter sessions.  Water gets as low as 2c up here but I managed last winter with cheap ass 5mm Decathlon gloves/boots, these should be a step up and I can always add layers under if need be.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on November 12, 2021, 05:54:24 AM
i feel for you cold water surfers...waves often look real nice but it would take a massive mental effort just to paddle out
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on December 10, 2021, 09:41:40 AM
i feel for you cold water surfers...waves often look real nice but it would take a massive mental effort just to paddle out
'
I paddled out early this morning and it was super cold out down here for socal. my feet hurt just walking on the pavement back to my car. much respect for you cold water peeps. that's some real dedication that my fragile ass can't handle

also having a growing hole in my wetsuit isn't helping anything
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on December 10, 2021, 11:14:20 AM
I don't mind the cold I just wish there were waves.  Seems like it has been flat forever.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on December 10, 2021, 12:40:35 PM
Winter surfing in NJ can be pretty epic, really thins the crowd out. Even mediocre conditions are a joy when you have em nearly to yourself. Paddling out doesnít bother me, as I generally get changed in the car. Getting changed afterwards, on the other hand, is miserable.

Gonna be heading out that way for Xmas soon, looks like there will be some swell to catch, Iím hyped. Then off to Hawaii in January, first time.

Will it be extremely sick? Will I slice my foot open on some coral? Only time can tell. Having grown up on beach breaks even the rocky points in CA have definitely been the cause of some dinged boards and stubbed toes. Thinking I might buy some reef shoes and just accept that I look kooky as shit.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on December 10, 2021, 01:22:15 PM
My parents live in Ocean City, NJ...and watching when it's firing in the winter makes it look worthwhile. Still though, cold water is tough to deal with. Maybe my blood got thin from having been in FL for near 20 years.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: homicidalpsychojunglecat on December 11, 2021, 05:27:41 PM
Having a pretty epic run of waves here in NZ. I live in the north of the country and our west coast has been solid for weeks and have had a week long run at least on our east cast (way more fickle) and more to come.

Thanks to La Nina I guess. This time last year was trash in comparison.

Just got myself a Christenson fish in 5'8", could probably have gone to 5'6" if I wanted it for bigger days. At any rate, it's an incredible board. Has replaced my groveller and can surf it in bigger stuff as well - although struggles on steeper takeoffs.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on December 13, 2021, 05:57:32 AM
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.

(https://i.ibb.co/dM8tP5C/albumtemp-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dM8tP5C)


single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on December 13, 2021, 06:27:06 AM
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.

(https://i.ibb.co/dM8tP5C/albumtemp-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dM8tP5C)


single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".

Thatís one of the sickest looking boards Iíve seen, the skate deck design is actually genius.

Havenít been out in 2 weeks, really hoping to this upcoming weekend.  Forecast yesterday was like 10ft @ 12s with crazy cross-off winds, which I wasnít going near after the previous nightís family dinner where I drank 12 beers.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on December 13, 2021, 06:42:38 AM
That board looks amazing!

To go with the skate theme you could even do a concave deck on the next one!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on December 13, 2021, 06:53:52 AM
That board looks amazing!

To go with the skate theme you could even do a concave deck on the next one!
thanks! I've done concave decks on a few boards and I really like them.


Expand Quote
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.

(https://i.ibb.co/dM8tP5C/albumtemp-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dM8tP5C)


single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".
[close]

Thatís one of the sickest looking boards Iíve seen, the skate deck design is actually genius.

Havenít been out in 2 weeks, really hoping to this upcoming weekend.  Forecast yesterday was like 10ft @ 12s with crazy cross-off winds, which I wasnít going near after the previous nightís family dinner where I drank 12 beers.
thank you! 10ft at 12sec seems pretty wild.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on December 13, 2021, 08:30:53 AM
@finecojeffe that thing looks so sick! I love the skate influenced color.

I ride a 5'10 mayhem retro quad a lot that looks very similar. love it so much
(https://lostsurfboards.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/RNF.png)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on December 13, 2021, 08:41:59 AM
@finecojeffe that thing looks so sick! I love the skate influenced color.

I ride a 5'10 mayhem retro quad a lot that looks very similar. love it so much

I absolutely got some inspiration from the RNF though more than the retro, but wanted to go with the quad setup instead of the 2+1 the rnf has. I placed the boxes a little further apart than the retro has because I planned to use the fcs performer quad set and not a split keel. Also I kept the swallow a little shallower than the retro but deeper than the rnf. The tail width is definitely narrower than the retro too. I guess it's kind of hybrid of the two.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on December 13, 2021, 10:07:16 AM
Expand Quote
That board looks amazing!

To go with the skate theme you could even do a concave deck on the next one!
[close]
thanks! I've done concave decks on a few boards and I really like them.


Expand Quote
Expand Quote
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.

(https://i.ibb.co/dM8tP5C/albumtemp-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dM8tP5C)


single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".
[close]

Thatís one of the sickest looking boards Iíve seen, the skate deck design is actually genius.

Havenít been out in 2 weeks, really hoping to this upcoming weekend.  Forecast yesterday was like 10ft @ 12s with crazy cross-off winds, which I wasnít going near after the previous nightís family dinner where I drank 12 beers.
[close]
thank you! 10ft at 12sec seems pretty wild.

nice work @finecojeffe ! Love to try and shape a board one day but I know I lack the patience. You glass it yourself also?

La Nina is killing us in Oregon. A few windows here and there but a lot of storm surf... Looks to be settling down later this week.

Got a work bonus and placed an order for Channel Islands Rocket Wide Squash... Probably won't get it until later in Spring...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on December 13, 2021, 11:57:14 AM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
That board looks amazing!

To go with the skate theme you could even do a concave deck on the next one!
[close]
thanks! I've done concave decks on a few boards and I really like them.


Expand Quote
Expand Quote
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.

(https://i.ibb.co/dM8tP5C/albumtemp-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dM8tP5C)


single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".
[close]

Thatís one of the sickest looking boards Iíve seen, the skate deck design is actually genius.

Havenít been out in 2 weeks, really hoping to this upcoming weekend.  Forecast yesterday was like 10ft @ 12s with crazy cross-off winds, which I wasnít going near after the previous nightís family dinner where I drank 12 beers.
[close]
thank you! 10ft at 12sec seems pretty wild.
[close]

nice work @finecojeffe ! Love to try and shape a board one day but I know I lack the patience. You glass it yourself also?

La Nina is killing us in Oregon. A few windows here and there but a lot of storm surf... Looks to be settling down later this week.

Got a work bonus and placed an order for Channel Islands Rocket Wide Squash... Probably won't get it until later in Spring...

yes, I did all of the steps on this...shaped it, painted it, made my own laminates, and glassed it. Rocket wide squash looks too fun. I've only had one CI board in the past (the Mini) and I put pressure dents in it all over it would up looking like a golf ball. It was a fun shape though.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on December 13, 2021, 12:28:57 PM
Yeah, I am aware of CI's glass jobs.  I upgraded to the Standard glassing 6/4/4 and S Cloth. This one is also Epoxy over EPS. I'd never order an Ultralight or Team light. I like heavier boards typically but the heavier glass job will be offset by the construction on this one, I think. Spinetek, no stinger, carbon strips... we'll see. Like I said, I got a work bonus so decided to roll the dice on a fancy alternative tech...

Most my boards are from a local shaper friend and he always does 6/4/6 S Cloth for me.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on December 15, 2021, 11:23:13 PM
Picked up a used catch surf softtop for pretty cheap, in great shape. It's a 5'6, quad and performs surprisingly well. There'll be ice coming down any day now (im in the st lawrence river) and it just destroys fiberglass. I'm looking forward to not having to clean epoxy drips this year..
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on December 16, 2021, 09:23:28 AM
just had my first sesh in the waco pool this week, truly weird vibe. not about to replace ocean surfing for me because the experience of chilling in some open water or at the beach is just missing. some people were clearly frothing on the addictive qualities of the wave but the organization of it all, being in a circuit and waiting your turn, etc, just feels like swim practice or something to me. The wave is pretty fast and hollow, which is cool for working on maneuvers. but it's short, and it's shaped like a horseshoe (bending away from you as you go down the line), so it loses power rather quickly. missed the first few waves entirely because you can't see em coming like you would in an ocean. you just listen for the machine to start up, spot a little ripple behind you, and start paddling while it jacks up over the course of just a few meters.

...but i'll definitely be back, lol
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on December 16, 2021, 10:01:13 AM
interesting to read 1st person review of the place. I've been wanting to try that wavepool for a while.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on December 16, 2021, 07:04:11 PM
Friend of mine who is a good surfer, can read waves really well and has a good efficient take off said he could not dial in Waco... Nice to see him humbled...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on December 17, 2021, 10:04:18 AM
@Frank and Fred @mj23
damn, cool to hear about that waco pool. interesting that it is hard to read the set coming through, makes sense though. I just looked at the pricing - it is expensive but not as bad as i thought it'd be. i'd love to try it out

i am headed down to rosarito to surf for the weekend, super stoked. just got a new 4/3mm ripcurl omega for cheap(my 3/2 that i have had for almost 3 years finally has a hole in it) and picking up booties to deal with the rocks down there as well
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on December 17, 2021, 10:15:41 AM
@Huell Howser

Sick. I will be there in February. My same friend has a surf shack at K38. Jammed full of all manner of boards. We will hole up there for a week and hopefully score some right handers...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on December 17, 2021, 10:31:25 AM
@Frank and Fred hell yea! I have the same situation(buddy with a trailer at k38) haha. Wonder if we are staying at the same spot

I'll report back but I'm sure you'll get some good waves. Last time I was out there in August a good swell came through, had a great time
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on December 17, 2021, 10:45:46 AM
@Huell Howser Oh shit that is funny. Yeah summer south swells are best but its a nice winter respite from Oregon... Here are some photos I took on past visits to get you amped...

(https://i.imgur.com/CsEo9yV.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/OW1u64Z)
(https://i.imgur.com/GB26Sea.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on December 17, 2021, 11:40:38 AM
wow, those shots got me so hyped @Frank and Fred . hot damn, that had to be an awesome sesh

it does look like we might be staying at the same spot. Hard for me to remember if that cross in the first photo is within the same trailer park or not
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on December 17, 2021, 12:57:02 PM
First time out in 3 weeks today, 10C air/7C water, finally started to get comfortable after about 45mins.. then board to face.  Didnít need stitches but split the inside of my lip bad enough to call it a day.  Meanwhile, my old coworker is posting footy of herself on the dreamiest lefts at Chicama right now.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on December 19, 2021, 01:44:29 PM
Those pics are dreamy, thanks frank and fred
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: RENTSTRIKE on December 20, 2021, 02:03:35 PM
How do those of you that surf on the PNW like it? I've spent my whole life surfing in NJ and have been thinking about a move to the portland or area (or preferably somewhere a little west of there). water seems chilly, but the coastline must offer something for every combo of wind/swell direction.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on December 20, 2021, 02:26:38 PM
The PNW can be a dreamy place to surf. It can also be hell. There is no shortage of swell. You can count on your hand the number times a year it gets completely flat. The water temp stays pretty cold all year. But you can also experience 45F water in June and 60F water in Feb. You have to pay attention to the currents and wind patterns to predict water temp. Then you have lots of winds. So you need headlands, jetties, coves etc to hide from giant storm swells and winds, and frankly there are not enough of these. Typically it is North wind Spring through Fall. Then a few months of offshore East winds and South all winter with a few offshore days.

We have some world class surf spots, but lots and lots of open featureless beach break. There is a lot to explore and still some pretty low key spots but the general rule of thumb is 'don't leave waves to look for waves.' You will mostly have to surf the same dozen or so spots everyone else surfs. Some are very welcoming, others are insanely crowded and others you are going to get into some level of altercation just by paddling out. You will often see perfect big empty surf and wonder why no one is on it and then find out the hard way, why. Lots of water, short period swell, harsh rips and small windows of good surf.

However, when the swell is small enough and the winds ease up you have hundreds of potential peaks up and down the coast. Some of my most memorable sessions have been finding perfect little sandbars with just a couple of friends. Its worth poking around. Sometimes, you score insane waves by accident. You find the right jetty on the right day with no one around but the seals (and whatever is chasing them).

Portland is not the best place to be a surfer but you can get to most of the best PNW spots for weekend strikes no problem. Seaside is about 1hr 45 mins away, Lincoln City a little more. There are more remote spots to scope around Coos Bay and the south coast. Finally, you can go up to WA and Van Isle where the giant winter swells wrap in to become perfect little boulder point breaks.... but good luck on timing those properly...

If you come here. A good hooded 4/3mm is mostly OK. Bring boards with more volume than you might think you need. You will paddle. A lot. A quiver is necessary. You'll need a high volume groveler or longboard for summer days, a beefy semigun for winter chaos and hopefully, a performance board for the days you really score. A lot of our waves are big and mushy so don't expect legit barrels except for a few notable spots where you will not be welcomed. Localism is real here. Some of these dudes live in the 1980s and will harass the shit out of you. Cars have been vandalized. Violence does occur. Learn ahead of time what you could be dealing with and time your paddle out accordingly. Generally speaking unless you are at a well established spot with a crowd don't paddle out on a group of three grumpy dudes who had it to themselves before you showed. Go to the next peak down...

I've surfed here 20 years and this coast still surprises the shit out of me. I live for the days where the bros and I stumble on our own remote peak and surf our brains out for hours. Still happens. If all else fails bring your skateboard, hiking boots or fishing rod. The PNW coast is a mind-melter on all fronts.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on December 22, 2021, 08:04:30 AM
anyone surf in a zip front wetsuit jacket? Through no fault of my own my size medium wetsuit top has shrunk (I've gained weight) and it rides up always like a crop top shirt. I need a new top. South FL winters often mean a wetsuit top but no need for a full suit. I was looking at the xcel sharkskin 2mm zip front top, but not sure if I want to pull the trigger on a jacket with a zipper in front for the reasons of it not being actually comfortable.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on December 23, 2021, 10:10:00 AM
The PNW can be a dreamy place to surf. It can also be hell. There is no shortage of swell. You can count on your hand the number times a year it gets completely flat. The water temp stays pretty cold all year. But you can also experience 45F water in June and 60F water in Feb. You have to pay attention to the currents and wind patterns to predict water temp. Then you have lots of winds. So you need headlands, jetties, coves etc to hide from giant storm swells and winds, and frankly there are not enough of these. Typically it is North wind Spring through Fall. Then a few months of offshore East winds and South all winter with a few offshore days.

We have some world class surf spots, but lots and lots of open featureless beach break. There is a lot to explore and still some pretty low key spots but the general rule of thumb is 'don't leave waves to look for waves.' You will mostly have to surf the same dozen or so spots everyone else surfs. Some are very welcoming, others are insanely crowded and others you are going to get into some level of altercation just by paddling out. You will often see perfect big empty surf and wonder why no one is on it and then find out the hard way, why. Lots of water, short period swell, harsh rips and small windows of good surf.

However, when the swell is small enough and the winds ease up you have hundreds of potential peaks up and down the coast. Some of my most memorable sessions have been finding perfect little sandbars with just a couple of friends. Its worth poking around. Sometimes, you score insane waves by accident. You find the right jetty on the right day with no one around but the seals (and whatever is chasing them).

Portland is not the best place to be a surfer but you can get to most of the best PNW spots for weekend strikes no problem. Seaside is about 1hr 45 mins away, Lincoln City a little more. There are more remote spots to scope around Coos Bay and the south coast. Finally, you can go up to WA and Van Isle where the giant winter swells wrap in to become perfect little boulder point breaks.... but good luck on timing those properly...

If you come here. A good hooded 4/3mm is mostly OK. Bring boards with more volume than you might think you need. You will paddle. A lot. A quiver is necessary. You'll need a high volume groveler or longboard for summer days, a beefy semigun for winter chaos and hopefully, a performance board for the days you really score. A lot of our waves are big and mushy so don't expect legit barrels except for a few notable spots where you will not be welcomed. Localism is real here. Some of these dudes live in the 1980s and will harass the shit out of you. Cars have been vandalized. Violence does occur. Learn ahead of time what you could be dealing with and time your paddle out accordingly. Generally speaking unless you are at a well established spot with a crowd don't paddle out on a group of three grumpy dudes who had it to themselves before you showed. Go to the next peak down...

I've surfed here 20 years and this coast still surprises the shit out of me. I live for the days where the bros and I stumble on our own remote peak and surf our brains out for hours. Still happens. If all else fails bring your skateboard, hiking boots or fishing rod. The PNW coast is a mind-melter on all fronts.

really enjoyed readin this PNW overview, thanks for that! I definitely gotta get up there at some point to surf

anyone surf in a zip front wetsuit jacket? Through no fault of my own my size medium wetsuit top has shrunk (I've gained weight) and it rides up always like a crop top shirt. I need a new top. South FL winters often mean a wetsuit top but no need for a full suit. I was looking at the xcel sharkskin 2mm zip front top, but not sure if I want to pull the trigger on a jacket with a zipper in front for the reasons of it not being actually comfortable.

never tried a wetsuit jacket just the pull over short sleeve wetsuit top

@Frank and Fred update on K38 - right as we were about to leave my buddy realized his passport had expired which was a huge bummer lmao. split decision we ended up still going down south and stayed/surfed in Cardiff which ended up being super sick. checking the cams it looked like the swell didn't look too great in rosarito so may have been a blessing in disguise(although was lookin forward to chillin in mexico). I gotta get back down to cardiff to surf, low wind all day and plenty of open beaches to choose from. met up with a buddy that surfs a lot down there and he was saying that the whole SD area has a bad summer season and really picks up in fall/winter
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on December 23, 2021, 11:17:45 AM
@Huell Howser LMK when you come up. I can share a little more info that will help you find some waves. Typically late summer through December is the magic season... except during La Nina... But you can score any time of year if you know when and where to look.

Bummer about k38. Not so long ago your buddy probably could have rolled the dice without a passport but not a good idea these days.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on December 29, 2021, 10:54:46 AM
@Frank and Fred sounds good, appreciate it man! and yeah, we decided it wasn't worth him getting pulled into secondary for hours just for a quick trip. hoping to get down there soon again

the shaper I ordered my egg from said it just got back from getting glassed so I am picking it up today. so stoked. will post some pics of it later! been raining here almost every day for the last week so I won't be able to take it out for a few more days.

ordered this Skip Frye 8.5 for the egg. anyone tried one?
(https://cdn.blinksurf.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/skip-Frye-colors.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on January 03, 2022, 06:34:39 PM
sorry for double post but here is my egg:

(https://i.ibb.co/1fT1cz3/IMG-4245.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/31hCNSp/IMG-4248.jpg)

so stoked on how it came out. Haven't got a chance to take it out(been sick) and I am waiting on my fin to get here. hoping to paddle out sometime this week or upcoming weekend
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on January 03, 2022, 08:35:48 PM
Nice. That should be a really fun versatile wave catcher.

Surfed New Years Day on my 7'6" Twin Fin. Lots of fun. Super cold.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on January 04, 2022, 05:09:54 AM
the egg looks great, love the color
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on January 04, 2022, 08:45:29 AM
Thing looks super fun! Whatís the underside like? I have a fineline MP with a similar outline And a displacement hull... it was my first board and a terrible thing to learn on (especially in east coast beach breaks) but I donít want to get rid of it until I try it out in some proper point break waves

I just got back from visiting family in NJ and LA for Xmas. Caught a nice shoulder high surprise swell Christmas Day in NJ, got totally skunked in LA by all the rain. Couldnít pay me to get in with all that disgusting runoff, plus the sewage spill... yuck.

When I was in NJ I also got a nice deal on a 5í10Ē x 22Ē x 3Ē mini Simmons with glassed on twins. First time riding something so short, and first time on a twin. Paddling is a lot of work, but I figure itís a nice board to leave at my moms house and pull out when waves are small.

But yo... riding a twin is hard. Shit slips and slides all around. I thought it would be at least as grippy as my retro single fin egg/hull... but it ainít! Tips?

Also... has anyone ever rented boards in Hawaii? My gfís parents are taking us there soon and I donít want to piss them off by checking boards (theyíre paying, and I want to be as low-impact as possible so they donít regret it, lol). I just hope I donít get stuck riding a pop out NSP or something.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on January 04, 2022, 10:32:22 AM
@mj23 Twins rule but can be bit tricky to dial in. Min Simmons aint called 'bars of soap' for nothing. I've never surfed one but I have surfed a few twin keel fish, performance shortboard twins and mid length twins. And the key is a good take off. Get in early and be solid on your bottom turn. Surf them off the tail, at least until you set your line. Do not try to crank them like a shortboard thruster. nurse the turns a bit until you can figure out what you can get away with. Stay low. Bend at the knees not at the waist. If you look at footage of people ripping a mini sims or twin keel fish its all about extension and compression of the knees. You are going to get some insane projection out of that thing when you dial it in.Personally, I think you'll want to find a nice forehand point break or at least some waves you can surf front side with a lot of open face and wall to them, not sectiony beach break closeouts. Anyway, you'll know what I'm talking about when you feel that spurt of speed after you come off the bottom.

How heavy are you? 5'10 x 22" x 3" is a lot of foam in that shape. You'll need some weight and leg strength to really lay a rail down. I have a similar dim board but at 200lbs I can wrestle it into submission.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on January 04, 2022, 11:00:03 AM
Thanks for the detailed response, that all makes a lot of sense. Unfortunately my home break in NJ is a fast and hollow beach break, one of the more consistent and punchy waves in the region but not ideal for a big open face. Thereís one decent point an hour or so away, but it needs a bigger swell to work. And in my current location (Texas), forget about it. Currently trying to decide which day of 3 foot wind swell is worth driving out for  :'(

Itíll be a while before I get a chance to really dive into the twin zone I guess. Hopefully this summer Iíll be back on a proper coast.

And regarding the dimsó Iím 155lb, so itíll probably be tough to set a rail in properly. But Iím so infatuated with the speed I get when it actually works. So weird, a bad takeoff and bottom turn is bog city, but on the rare occasion when I get it right the thing absolutely zooms
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rawr1922 on January 27, 2022, 12:15:53 PM
Haven't surfed in a couple months. Been waiting for a mellow day to get back in the water however nonstop 4'-6'.  Going out today, can't wait to get wrecked.  Always takes me a little time to get my groove back. Just takes one wave for everything to click again   
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on January 27, 2022, 02:37:42 PM
4í-6í is dream conditions when Iím on a good run, but a little large when out of practice for sure.  Hope you scored some good ones and didnít get rocked too hard!  I havenít been out in a month for a myriad of different reasons, hoping for a mellow return soon as well.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: homicidalpsychojunglecat on January 29, 2022, 04:01:54 PM
Dream run in New Zealand continues. I've been surfing probably four days a week for the past three months. Could be surfing more but work and needing a rest every now and then - plus some skate time - have to be considered too!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on January 31, 2022, 08:06:19 AM
I'm jealous. Any time theres waves I'm working, or have other obligations. I've had 3 sessions in all of January, each was barely rideable on a bigger board too. There was a good swell on Saturday that I had to miss too.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on January 31, 2022, 08:16:06 AM
This La Nina hasn't been as bad as I feared. I managed five sessions in January... not bad for a Val kook. Even scored a classic Oregon spot weekend before last with just four of us out. I was not on my game and was shortboarding for the first time in a long time but managed to snag a few gems. The mid-lengths have really been a savior for head to toe neoprene and heavy water, strong current days while I am not in optimum paddle-shape.

I'm off to Baja in a week. Early forecast doesn't look epic but at a minimum it will be a week of longboarding and fish cruising on a right hand point in warm (for me) water.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on January 31, 2022, 08:45:39 AM
Anybody have any advice for la saladita?  there hasn't really been any waves here in awhile and am not looking forward to the paddle.  Trying to decide whether to take boards or rent them.  I have been told there are nice rentals there and I really don't want to haul longboards so am leaning that way.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on January 31, 2022, 09:18:48 AM
Last time I was at La Saladita was before there was anything there beyond a local village. Very fun wave. The paddle is long but pretty easy. Longboard', mid length or some kind of fish will do you right.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on January 31, 2022, 09:27:50 AM
This La Nina hasn't been as bad as I feared. I managed five sessions in January... not bad for a Val kook. Even scored a classic Oregon spot weekend before last with just four of us out. I was not on my game and was shortboarding for the first time in a long time but managed to snag a few gems. The mid-lengths have really been a savior for head to toe neoprene and heavy water, strong current days while I am not in optimum paddle-shape.

I'm off to Baja in a week. Early forecast doesn't look epic but at a minimum it will be a week of longboarding and fish cruising on a right hand point in warm (for me) water.

So jealous, hope a swell comes through for ya. Sounds like you'll have an excellent time regardless

I got two sessions in last week. Wish I had time to get more early morning weekday sessions in but work has been starting earlier lately

also just thought of this. I used to live in Japan and there was one mexican spot that had amazing fish tacos I used to go often in the small city I lived in at the time. The owner was a japanese dude who lived in mexico for a few years studying cooking. A few years back he opened up a ramen shop in Ensenada haha. I haven't been yet but it looks amazing, might be worth checking out if you have the time
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mexipon+Ramen+%26+Curry+Bar/@31.860351,-116.6451384,12.92z/data=!4m12!1m6!3m5!1s0x80d89266fb2ffff9:0xa434f1a6eaa2189!2sMexipon+Ramen+%26+Curry+Bar!8m2!3d31.862788!4d-116.6283199!3m4!1s0x80d89266fb2ffff9:0xa434f1a6eaa2189!8m2!3d31.862788!4d-116.6283199

mexican spot in japan and ramen spot in mexico. sounds ass backwards but its awesome
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on February 01, 2022, 06:48:54 PM
Just got back from 9 days in Hawaii. Rented a medium-crappy epoxy midlength for my week on the big island and some absolute dogshit 11ft nsp longboard for 2 days at Waikiki.

Much easier to get a wave at Canoes Waikiki than I expected. Crowded as fuck but 90% or more of them are basically stationary, and theyíre so impressed when you whiz by them. Did a little cross stepping (first time, never really longboarded before) and got hoots from the kooks, made me feel pretty cool even though I actually kinda suck.

Big Island was a different beast. Spent a lot of time spot hunting. Managed to score one sesh with only 3 other guys at a secluded lava reef with a sharp shallow lava bottom and fast chest high rights. I was scared of pissing off the locals just by paddling out, but they ended up being real chill and calling me into some waves. Didnít stick around long because it was a bit above my pay grade, but I managed to catch a few and make it out in one piece, so I was psyched.

Now that Iíve had a taste of surf travel with uncrowded waves Iím absolutely friending for another fix. Starting to think about a trip to Baja Sur. Seems like the quickest, cheapest direct flight option from TX.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rawr1922 on February 02, 2022, 12:03:38 PM
Just got back from 9 days in Hawaii. Rented a medium-crappy epoxy midlength for my week on the big island and some absolute dogshit 11ft nsp longboard for 2 days at Waikiki.

Much easier to get a wave at Canoes Waikiki than I expected. Crowded as fuck but 90% or more of them are basically stationary, and theyíre so impressed when you whiz by them
Classic Hawaii experience lol. Big boards are so fun in town
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Krishna3k on February 04, 2022, 05:27:54 AM
one word SHARKS fuck the water lol staying away from that shit had a homie that got attacked once
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on February 10, 2022, 09:41:32 AM
@mj23 sounds like a great time. I gotta get out to hawaii, still never been. even if it is just to mess around on a shitty foamer trying to dodge human speed bumps I bet i'd have a great time just taking it all in haha

a nice swell came through socal. had a great session this morning before work at the crack of dawn. powerful offshore wind helping waves peel and causing crazy backspray. took out my fish instead of the newer egg which luckily, was the better choice. during one wave I caught I could barely tell what was going on as I was riding down the line because I was getting smacked in the face by excess water haha

anyone else been getting out lately?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on February 10, 2022, 10:32:10 AM
Surfing before work sounds awesome, but also feel like Iíd struggle to stay awake afterwards haha.

Sunís setting around 5:30pm now in the NE so been able to go out after work again.  Yesterday started off a little dicey with the waves and crowd both a little out of my comfort zone, but as it got darker things mellowed out just enough and I caught a great one (for me) in, decent speed and a couple solid bottom/top turns.  Made freezing my ass off for 2hrs worth it.

I love to research and daydream about buying a new board, but given my level I think Iím best off sticking with the Torq 7í4 for awhile.  It really does strike a good balance of float/maneuverability/durability, and I still stand to learn a lot on it.  Maybe Iíll try renting a fish this summer.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: dudeonthecouch on February 10, 2022, 01:00:19 PM
I moved to NYC a couple months ago and recently got bit by the surfing bug. does anyone have any reccomendations for a good shop to buy a board and gear? also any good spots to surf besides the generic "the rockaways" or "long island" answer?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on February 10, 2022, 01:28:03 PM
Surfing before work sounds awesome, but also feel like Iíd struggle to stay awake afterwards haha.

Sunís setting around 5:30pm now in the NE so been able to go out after work again.  Yesterday started off a little dicey with the waves and crowd both a little out of my comfort zone, but as it got darker things mellowed out just enough and I caught a great one (for me) in, decent speed and a couple solid bottom/top turns.  Made freezing my ass off for 2hrs worth it.

I love to research and daydream about buying a new board, but given my level I think Iím best off sticking with the Torq 7í4 for awhile.  It really does strike a good balance of float/maneuverability/durability, and I still stand to learn a lot on it.  Maybe Iíll try renting a fish this summer.

its a great way to start the day for sure. and yep most def get a little tired. I usually catch a big nap(30-40 min) during lunch time and then have a cup of coffee after lunch and I am good to go

and i'd say that's cool you recognize you still got some stuff to learn on that 7'4 before buying your next board. I think that's a good call to try a few different boards if you can, that way you can get a better idea of what you'd like to buy when the time comes. i love my fish, it has a good amount of foam under my chest so its an easy paddle(for a shorter board) to get into waves. I can definitely see how much more responsive my fish now vs my single fin egg. love both but two different kinds of surfing for sure

@dudeonthecouch i think @mj23 was an east coaster so he might be able to provide ya with some info
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: dudeonthecouch on February 10, 2022, 02:07:22 PM
Expand Quote
Surfing before work sounds awesome, but also feel like Iíd struggle to stay awake afterwards haha.

Sunís setting around 5:30pm now in the NE so been able to go out after work again.  Yesterday started off a little dicey with the waves and crowd both a little out of my comfort zone, but as it got darker things mellowed out just enough and I caught a great one (for me) in, decent speed and a couple solid bottom/top turns.  Made freezing my ass off for 2hrs worth it.

I love to research and daydream about buying a new board, but given my level I think Iím best off sticking with the Torq 7í4 for awhile.  It really does strike a good balance of float/maneuverability/durability, and I still stand to learn a lot on it.  Maybe Iíll try renting a fish this summer.
[close]

its a great way to start the day for sure. and yep most def get a little tired. I usually catch a big nap(30-40 min) during lunch time and then have a cup of coffee after lunch and I am good to go

and i'd say that's cool you recognize you still got some stuff to learn on that 7'4 before buying your next board. I think that's a good call to try a few different boards if you can, that way you can get a better idea of what you'd like to buy when the time comes. i love my fish, it has a good amount of foam under my chest so its an easy paddle(for a shorter board) to get into waves. I can definitely see how much more responsive my fish now vs my single fin egg. love both but two different kinds of surfing for sure

@dudeonthecouch i think @mj23 was an east coaster so he might be able to provide ya with some info
@mj23 could ya help pointing me in the right direction?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: One-last-question on February 10, 2022, 02:46:21 PM
Does anyone know of a surfing forum that has a similar vibe to slap? Iíve poked around a little and a lot of them seem super lame, plus the surfer.com forum has gigantic ads that make mobile usage basically impossible.
forum.realsurf.com but I dont think they use it as much as you guys use slap.. also I'm new here I don't know how to post links
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on February 10, 2022, 06:15:11 PM
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Surfing before work sounds awesome, but also feel like Iíd struggle to stay awake afterwards haha.

Sunís setting around 5:30pm now in the NE so been able to go out after work again.  Yesterday started off a little dicey with the waves and crowd both a little out of my comfort zone, but as it got darker things mellowed out just enough and I caught a great one (for me) in, decent speed and a couple solid bottom/top turns.  Made freezing my ass off for 2hrs worth it.

I love to research and daydream about buying a new board, but given my level I think Iím best off sticking with the Torq 7í4 for awhile.  It really does strike a good balance of float/maneuverability/durability, and I still stand to learn a lot on it.  Maybe Iíll try renting a fish this summer.
[close]

its a great way to start the day for sure. and yep most def get a little tired. I usually catch a big nap(30-40 min) during lunch time and then have a cup of coffee after lunch and I am good to go

and i'd say that's cool you recognize you still got some stuff to learn on that 7'4 before buying your next board. I think that's a good call to try a few different boards if you can, that way you can get a better idea of what you'd like to buy when the time comes. i love my fish, it has a good amount of foam under my chest so its an easy paddle(for a shorter board) to get into waves. I can definitely see how much more responsive my fish now vs my single fin egg. love both but two different kinds of surfing for sure

@dudeonthecouch i think @mj23 was an east coaster so he might be able to provide ya with some info
[close]
@mj23 could ya help pointing me in the right direction?
Sureó for NYC I would say just get out there as much as you now before the summer crowds show up. It gets fucking harsh.

For LI I honestly donít know, never went

For NJ I grew up very close to one of the two most well known spots, both which are easy to scope on Surfline. Jersey summers are tough as well, with paid beach badges and crowds and rules against surfing from 9 to 5. So you gotta plan around that. And the shore cops are real dicks if you have NY plates because they need to suck up a whole years worth of income during a 3 month tourist season. The consistent spots are crowded and the uncrowded spots are fickle. But itís absolutely wonderful in the fall.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on February 15, 2022, 10:25:50 AM
Just got back from a solid trip, south of the boarder. Lucked into a legit out-of-season south swell. Surfed a 7'10" fun gun on the big days and a fishy 6'2" on the smaller days. Two sessions a day in warm (for me) water, balmy air temps and glassy green conditions unloading on Baja Norte reefs. Pretty stoked.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on February 15, 2022, 11:05:51 AM
@Frank and Fred man, if you were down there last weekend I am sure you had such a good time. I caught a couple of great sessions last week. Any pics from the swell down there at k38?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on February 15, 2022, 11:07:00 AM
Some crappy cell phone pics. Did not take my proper camera and lens this time as I wanted to travel light. Kind of regret that...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Blue Fescue on February 23, 2022, 07:34:56 AM
Back from a week in La Saladita.  It was a lot of fun.  Rented longboards from Lourdes.  It was $100 for the week and the boards were really nice, I got a 10' CJ Nelson that was basically in perfect condition. 

The wave can be crowded but it was fine.  We got up early and would paddle out when there were just a few people.  Around 11 the wind would get on it and we would usually go back out sometime later in the day.  The flights from the southeast US were brutal though. 
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on February 24, 2022, 09:50:46 AM
sounds so fun^ a long baja trip is definitely on my list for this upcoming spring/summer. really hoping to inherit the trailer we go to down at k38(friend's family that doesn't go anymore) alongside my friend

since i've been reading the book barbarian days i've been looking at old footage of spots the author frequented back in the 60s/70s. came across the encyclopedia of surfing vimeo page and there is so many gems
*video can't be shared as an iframe for some reason but can click and watch it on vimeo
https://vimeo.com/250670892
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on March 12, 2022, 09:30:41 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/VohuWsl.jpg)

got my new custom Rocket Wide Squash in the mail yesterday.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on March 15, 2022, 09:33:49 AM
@Frank and Fred damn that thing looks fun to ride! dig the color. what are the specs?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on March 15, 2022, 09:53:30 AM
6'0 x 20.75 x 2 3/4". I'm old and 200lbs. This will be my 'performance' board from about thigh high to a little overhead. I hope... Been having a lot of fun on midsized boards and twins but I have my most fun on beefed up stubby shortboards.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on March 15, 2022, 11:57:48 AM
That sounds great. Haha I feel ya, that is probably as 'performance' as I would go. Still get into waves a little more easily with that foam and have way more responsiveness than a midlength. you're gonna have a good time on that thing for sure
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on March 29, 2022, 09:13:35 AM
had a cool thing happen - I bought a 3/2 ripcurl ebomb wetsuit in 2019 sometime and it lasted me about 2 & 1/2 years then finally got a little hole in the leg and thinned out in the crotch. I sent it to ripcurl to get it fixed January this year and was told it would be returned in about 4-6 weeks. I finally emailed them after 3 months with no response and they said 'due to covid they don't have the materials to fix my wetsuit right now' so they 'put me under warranty' and gave me a the amount of store credit to buy another ebomb. So stoked, was not expecting this to happen at all. I have read some negative stuff online about ripcurl's suits but I have always liked mine and now I feel like imma buy them for life
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on March 30, 2022, 11:15:58 AM
had a cool thing happen - I bought a 3/2 ripcurl ebomb wetsuit in 2019 sometime and it lasted me about 2 & 1/2 years then finally got a little hole in the leg and thinned out in the crotch. I sent it to ripcurl to get it fixed January this year and was told it would be returned in about 4-6 weeks. I finally emailed them after 3 months with no response and they said 'due to covid they don't have the materials to fix my wetsuit right now' so they 'put me under warranty' and gave me a the amount of store credit to buy another ebomb. So stoked, was not expecting this to happen at all. I have read some negative stuff online about ripcurl's suits but I have always liked mine and now I feel like imma buy them for life

that fucking rules. i've had like 3 ripcurl suits and they've all held up for multiple seasons, but i never bothered to try and get them fixed or replaced when they started leaking. i think i still have a leaky 3/2 around somewhere, i may try to send it out and see what happens. did you still have a receipt or any paperwork or anything like that?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on March 30, 2022, 12:06:58 PM
Expand Quote
had a cool thing happen - I bought a 3/2 ripcurl ebomb wetsuit in 2019 sometime and it lasted me about 2 & 1/2 years then finally got a little hole in the leg and thinned out in the crotch. I sent it to ripcurl to get it fixed January this year and was told it would be returned in about 4-6 weeks. I finally emailed them after 3 months with no response and they said 'due to covid they don't have the materials to fix my wetsuit right now' so they 'put me under warranty' and gave me a the amount of store credit to buy another ebomb. So stoked, was not expecting this to happen at all. I have read some negative stuff online about ripcurl's suits but I have always liked mine and now I feel like imma buy them for life
[close]

that fucking rules. i've had like 3 ripcurl suits and they've all held up for multiple seasons, but i never bothered to try and get them fixed or replaced when they started leaking. i think i still have a leaky 3/2 around somewhere, i may try to send it out and see what happens. did you still have a receipt or any paperwork or anything like that?

i'd say its worth a try. worst comes to worst they will just repair it where it's needed and you'll pay a small amount. I brought mine into an actual Rip Curl shop with no receipt and they sent it in after inspecting where the repairs needed to be done. I didn't buy the suit at a rip curl shop either
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 08, 2022, 08:19:52 AM
Spring has been pretty shitty up here in the PNW but still managing a weekly go out. Fun session yesterday on my 6'2" twin. I think I may have done one of my best backhand cut backs to date on it. Full rebound off the white water. The twin didn't lose any speed whatsoever through the whole turn, felt great. Still haven't got my new CI wet (or even waxed) yet...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 11, 2022, 03:39:09 PM
@Frank and Fred hey, at least you've been getting out. I don't think I have ever regretted going out even if it is shitty, usually always leaves me feeling better than I did before. That cutback sounds rad, nice. Why haven't you brought out the CI? Saving it for certain conditions? My friend who I kinda look to for guidance in surfing when talking about my single fin said to me 'you gotta take that thing out in all conditions - small, big, shitty, steep, everything... to really understand how to ride it'  and that has stuck with me since haha

i am trying not to dwell on it too much but i did infact see a shark recently(luckily on vacation and not at my home break) and it has sent my head for a spin since. it was way inside
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on April 11, 2022, 03:45:27 PM
i just got a new job and i'm moving back to nyc where i can surf my old home breaks  :)

i'll miss a lot about austin but i will NOT miss driving 4 hours to surf

and i'm gonna make a little more money so maybe i can go on some surf trips. anyone here ever go down to puerto rico?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: bigdave on April 11, 2022, 03:55:10 PM
@Frank and Fred hey, at least you've been getting out. I don't think I have ever regretted going out even if it is shitty, usually always leaves me feeling better than I did before. That cutback sounds rad, nice. Why haven't you brought out the CI? Saving it for certain conditions? My friend who I kinda look to for guidance in surfing when talking about my single fin said to me 'you gotta take that thing out in all conditions - small, big, shitty, steep, everything... to really understand how to ride it'  and that has stuck with me since haha

i am trying not to dwell on it too much but i did infact see a shark recently(luckily on vacation and not at my home break) and it has sent my head for a spin since. it was way inside

Where'd you see the shark?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 11, 2022, 03:59:54 PM
@bigdave Catalina - I know its super common over there but this thing was about 3 ft from the shore and luckily someone yelled so we we got out of the water. I couldn't make out what type it was but I could see it's silohoutte right in the small break crashing on the rocky shore. it was probably between 6/7ft
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 11, 2022, 04:48:21 PM
@Huell Howser I always have a weird block with new boards. As soon as I surf it once, that will be it. It now has a traction pad and fins. I'll wax up a base coat this weekend... haha..

But also, mostly harsh winter conditions have meant I've needed the old reliable heavy water paddlers. (ie mid length crutches)

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on April 12, 2022, 05:49:42 AM
Just wrapped up making this 5'4" twin fin. It's got a single concave into a mid-to-deep double concave through the tail.

dims: 5'4" x 20.75" x 2.25". I have no clue on the volume exactly, but math puts it around 27-28 liters. I'm 5'9" and 175+ pounds and plan to surf this in small to shoulder high surf if we ever get shoulder high surf. It should be fine in 1'-2' waves though.

(https://i.ibb.co/bB70MvC/IMG-8584-72.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pzn7BKM)

(https://i.ibb.co/r0pMxqy/IMG-8571.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kBD04zc)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 12, 2022, 09:44:43 AM
Hell yeah @finecojeffe I'll take a 5'8" version!

Let us know how it goes.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on April 12, 2022, 12:52:28 PM
Hell yeah @finecojeffe I'll take a 5'8" version!

Let us know how it goes.

will do...hoping to get it out tomorrow afternoon
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on April 13, 2022, 05:23:24 AM
wound up getting a few after work yesterday. Waves were real small barely cracking 1'-2'. Still trying to find the sweet spot on the board. Take-offs are real nice and it paddles really well. But I kept swamping the nose after a few pumps so I need to adjust to a slightly narrower stance, or maybe squat a little more so i don't keep so much pressure forward. That's always been a problem of mine though since I favor my front foot.

Either way I was able to snag a few really fun waves and based on them and how the board likes to surf I'm thinking it will be good up to head high, possibly overhead. It didn't feel too loose, for which I think the deep double concave helped, but it could release and spin when I wanted. I used the fcs2 MR twin fins. I think they're the right choice as the boxes are set only 6" up from the tail. I have a set of the modern keels, but they might stiffen it up too much for me.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 13, 2022, 09:43:35 AM
Rad. yeah, I always have to remind myself to surf twins more off the tail.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on April 13, 2022, 10:43:19 AM
Just wrapped up making this 5'4" twin fin. It's got a single concave into a mid-to-deep double concave through the tail.

dims: 5'4" x 20.75" x 2.25". I have no clue on the volume exactly, but math puts it around 27-28 liters. I'm 5'9" and 175+ pounds and plan to surf this in small to shoulder high surf if we ever get shoulder high surf. It should be fine in 1'-2' waves though.

(https://i.ibb.co/bB70MvC/IMG-8584-72.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pzn7BKM)

(https://i.ibb.co/r0pMxqy/IMG-8571.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kBD04zc)
 

thas a beaut, nice work. try it out yet? how's it feel?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on April 13, 2022, 11:36:51 AM
thas a beaut, nice work. try it out yet? how's it feel?

thanks. two posts up is my little review after a sesh.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 13, 2022, 03:38:34 PM
wound up getting a few after work yesterday. Waves were real small barely cracking 1'-2'. Still trying to find the sweet spot on the board. Take-offs are real nice and it paddles really well. But I kept swamping the nose after a few pumps so I need to adjust to a slightly narrower stance, or maybe squat a little more so i don't keep so much pressure forward. That's always been a problem of mine though since I favor my front foot.

Either way I was able to snag a few really fun waves and based on them and how the board likes to surf I'm thinking it will be good up to head high, possibly overhead. It didn't feel too loose, for which I think the deep double concave helped, but it could release and spin when I wanted. I used the fcs2 MR twin fins. I think they're the right choice as the boxes are set only 6" up from the tail. I have a set of the modern keels, but they might stiffen it up too much for me.


nice, that thing looks rad. i'm 6'2 around 175-180 and smaller waves on my 5'10 are probably the toughest for me to surf. i feel like i need some power behind me or else I just sink haha... need to get better in that regard. I am not too familiar with twins, during a recent session I swapped boards with my buddy for a few waves - he has a 7'2 pin tail twin(kinda like something you'd see torren martyn on) and it took me a few waves to just barely start understanding it...

Have you been shaping boards for others as well?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on April 14, 2022, 06:12:38 AM
nice, that thing looks rad. i'm 6'2 around 175-180 and smaller waves on my 5'10 are probably the toughest for me to surf. i feel like i need some power behind me or else I just sink haha... need to get better in that regard. I am not too familiar with twins, during a recent session I swapped boards with my buddy for a few waves - he has a 7'2 pin tail twin(kinda like something you'd see torren martyn on) and it took me a few waves to just barely start understanding it...

Have you been shaping boards for others as well?

we're just about in the same weight range. I think it comes down to making the board work in small waves vs letting the wave push. For instance generating speed the moment you pop up isn't dissimilar from tic-tacking like a maniac and looking like one while doing so! Short rides with quick bursts. I'm always hunting for the smallest board in the smallest waves until summer hits then I'm back on my 8'3" twin.

As for making boards for other people, I definitely have in the past. It's mostly a hobby and I'm horrible at marketing myself so it's been just a few boards for friends. I haven't sold a single one outside of that, but I've only tried with one board so far.

heres the super low res, surfline cam perspective of me flailing in those small waves I mentioned:

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CcTE0yAl85D/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY= (https://www.instagram.com/tv/CcTE0yAl85D/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 14, 2022, 09:59:30 AM
@finecojeffe Yeah good point, pumping like a maniac might be something for me to try out haha. I usually just rely on the initual pop up for speed like you mentioned


nice vid, fun to see yourself on surfline haha. I can see those bumpy conditions you're talking about. I can see how surfing quick waves like that probably makes you a much better surfer in the long run. also looks so nice being in blue tropical water

I usually don't have luck seeing myself on there because when I am out in the water I'm usually not conscious of where the cams are placed/staying near them. always stoked when I do find a clip though

here is a wave that I actually was in front of the cam for from a few weeks back, ended up being one of the longer ones i got during the session so I was stoked to play it back. had a good time with some friends at a spot that is usually not breaking. cruisin on that single fin egg

https://imgur.com/a/IMV9rT8 (https://imgur.com/a/IMV9rT8)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 14, 2022, 10:16:46 AM
Ha! Good old Kook Cams. We had one at the winter spot until the locals had enough... Not before I caught myself on a small winter day though... Shame I was riding a borrowed oversized pumpkin seed that day...

(https://i.imgur.com/cTeWApS.mp4)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on April 14, 2022, 10:36:37 AM
kook cams is right haha. i do rely on them to get my ass outta bed sometimes...

@Frank and Fred did the locals contact surfline to get it taken down?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on April 14, 2022, 10:45:49 AM
They put signs in front of it. Literally a giant placard that said, "KOOK CAM" on it. It may even have been vandalized. Living in Portland I use cams also but that one needed to go, it was too good.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on April 15, 2022, 05:13:33 AM
@finecojeffe Yeah good point, pumping like a maniac might be something for me to try out haha. I usually just rely on the initual pop up for speed like you mentioned


nice vid, fun to see yourself on surfline haha. I can see those bumpy conditions you're talking about. I can see how surfing quick waves like that probably makes you a much better surfer in the long run. also looks so nice being in blue tropical water

I usually don't have luck seeing myself on there because when I am out in the water I'm usually not conscious of where the cams are placed/staying near them. always stoked when I do find a clip though

here is a wave that I actually was in front of the cam for from a few weeks back, ended up being one of the longer ones i got during the session so I was stoked to play it back. had a good time with some friends at a spot that is usually not breaking. cruisin on that single fin egg

https://imgur.com/a/IMV9rT8 (https://imgur.com/a/IMV9rT8)

Conditions were bad enough that people didn't show, that's the only way I catch myself on cam. I also know what time I catch waves because I have to wear a watch so I know when my parking meter is up, I just try look at it after a wave is caught that I feel like reviewing. I'd say about 99% of the time, the review makes me realize either how bad the camera angle is or how much I need to learn...and the camera doesn't lie.

Cams don't ruin south beach because there's only 2 breaks in miami so no matter what if the waves get any good it will be packed. What's crazy about this spot is about 1-2 times a year it lights up and there is no preparing you for it if you've never surfed overhead barreling beach break. Waves come in super fast and jack up. Before I moved here (almost 20 years ago) I never thought there was even a chance for anything above knee high just based on geographic location with the bahamas blocking the open ocean swells.

here's a nice vid of the 2020 swell I found on youtube showing the conditions. FFW to 1:03 to start seeing them

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5A6TkuShgw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5A6TkuShgw)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on May 02, 2022, 05:19:54 AM
Getting back to the yellow board i posted recently, I was able to get out yesterday in some fairly sizeable surf. Went to Jensen Beach and paddled out as far as I've ever paddled since I saw one guy out there. Forecast said 2'-3' so I was on the yellow twin. Once I got so far outside I saw the guy was on a rescue board, which I guess is 12' or more. Waves were like open ocean swells and much bigger than I thought looking from the beach. So anyway my estimation of head high to overhead for this board was off. It took off too fast and was difficult to control under those conditions. I found myself having a hard time just setting rail and would slide out. Not fun getting shoved deep so far off the beach and nearly alone. I caught a few waves that went well but I had to basically pick the s/medium ones. Wound up swapping boards after about an hour. I'd say the twin could handle shoulder high at most after this session.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on May 02, 2022, 08:06:44 AM
@finecojeffe nice to really test the limits of the board, sounds a bit scary but epic usually is. The levels here have been bad for a few weeks, I've driven a couple times to chase waves, but that isn't really my thing, especially with the price of gas. Can't wait  for the waves to come back, i feel like the og surfers these days, landsurfing to pass the flat days.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 02, 2022, 11:55:11 AM
@finecojeffe that sounds like an a perspective changing session, especially almost by your lonesome haha. Luckily during similar sessions, I have at least been out with one friend so we can keep an eye on one another. Even though big and stormy isn't my deal, paddling out and 'survival surfing' during those sessions has definitely made me more calm on regular days when bigger sets roll through. At least ya know not to bring out the twin under those conditions haha

reminds me of this john john florence vid I watched recently where he talks/analyzes getting caught in a rip current and taking a ton of waves on the head:
https://youtu.be/Z8HQBA4dh_8

so freaky. of course that's at pipe and I have never even surfed in Hawaii but rip currents exist everywhere lol

@botefdunn where are you usually surfing at?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on May 02, 2022, 12:32:04 PM
@Huell Howser I'm a lowly river surfer on the east coast, but inland, hours from any  ocean waves. :'( Winter snow runoff has pushed all the river levels high lately, which buries the waves.

This my local, sometimes it gets pretty good, generally stays small but fun like in the pic.

*fyi not me in the pic!

(https://ksf.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Lola-Habitat67-web.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 02, 2022, 08:58:02 PM
@botefdunn hey, nothin wrong with that. River surfing sounds fun as hell! would love to try it out at some point


I like to hear about peopleís local spots. Thanks for sharing
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on May 03, 2022, 06:05:55 AM
@finecojeffe nice to really test the limits of the board, sounds a bit scary but epic usually is. The levels here have been bad for a few weeks, I've driven a couple times to chase waves, but that isn't really my thing, especially with the price of gas. Can't wait  for the waves to come back, i feel like the og surfers these days, landsurfing to pass the flat days.
Definitely a little scary. Not scary while paddling, just while sitting and waiting. I'm back on the landsurfing soon too since it's about to be so as flat as can be here in SoFlo until either a hurricane or next fall.

@finecojeffe that sounds like an a perspective changing session, especially almost by your lonesome haha. Luckily during similar sessions, I have at least been out with one friend so we can keep an eye on one another. Even though big and stormy isn't my deal, paddling out and 'survival surfing' during those sessions has definitely made me more calm on regular days when bigger sets roll through. At least ya know not to bring out the twin under those conditions haha

reminds me of this john john florence vid I watched recently where he talks/analyzes getting caught in a rip current and taking a ton of waves on the head:
https://youtu.be/Z8HQBA4dh_8

so freaky. of course that's at pipe and I have never even surfed in Hawaii but rip currents exist everywhere lol

@botefdunn where are you usually surfing at?


The rips here are usually helpful at least to just paddle out, but if you lose a board I imagine it would suck pretty bad. That vid is nerve-racking. I can't imagine being that stuck for that long and nobody even really notices.

The one fairly uncomfortable/scary wipeout i had last saturday was when I couldn't set rail and pitched right where the lip broke sending me straight down. I got to the point my leash was taught, my board was tombstoned, I was stretched out upside-down  and I couldn't right my body to swim to the surface. As soon as the wave passed I swam up and took another on the head. Wound up with a little whiplash and a lot of water in my sinus.

River surfing looks fun. I haven't looked in to it much, but do people ride thinker but shorter boards compared to ocean surfing? It would be cool to do a hike-camp-surf trip along a river.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on May 03, 2022, 08:35:10 AM
That Nathan Florence vid was super interesting. I don't typically enjoy Been Gravy but his counter-analysis was cool also. We deal with a lot of weird rips and heavy water here in the NW and you can get into some really challenging situations where you can't get out or in. Exhausting in a 5mm wetsuit but nothing like that.

I'm blowing the afternoon of work... its pretty junky storm swell today, forecasted to clean up but it could still be two hours of being sucked around only to drop into a steep chunky close out or two... looking forward for La Nina to break free but its not happening yet...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 03, 2022, 11:24:40 AM
@Frank and Fred oops, just realized I said John John, meant Nathan. always mixing them up haha. Yeah, agreed on the Ben Gravy, seems like the equivalent of a youtube skater with weird off-brand sponsors but I did enjoy his video as well
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on May 04, 2022, 01:11:00 PM
on the topic of river surfing, i just learned that there's a standing wave near austin. gonna try to check it out before i leave. the guy in this first video is using a wakesurf board, but i also found a rental company nearby that actually uses inflatable boards. if you watch the second video you can see it. seems to turn like shit lol, i'll try to find like a wavestorm or something at least

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHwqdQSqlu4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl4AH7Au2Bs
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 04, 2022, 02:09:26 PM
@mj23 that looks so fun, especially if its hot out. yeah, that inflatable board in the second vid looks rough to turn. you should try to find a beater foam board on craiglist for cheap. maybe even pop the fins off for extra fun haha
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 25, 2022, 04:06:59 PM
bump

been riding this 6'1 mayhem evil twin my buddy let me borrow(random pic but same model).
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-pllu8dargz/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/13411/31728/IMG_2541__94248.1650399297.jpg?c=1)
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-pllu8dargz/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/13411/31727/IMG_2542__51598.1650399294.jpg?c=1)
 it's been fun feelin like i'm riding something a bit more 'skatey' then my fish. I think I would really love something with similar dimensions but probably at about 5'11.

He also let me borrow a 5'7 album twin but goddamn did I get exercise paddling on that thing. I don't know the exact dimensions but it doesn't have much foam to it, feels tiny and thin compared to what I am usually riding. I was winded about 5 seconds after trying to paddle back out after catching a wave haha
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on May 26, 2022, 08:53:46 AM
what fin setup are you using on that evil? I've always been interested in that board.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 26, 2022, 11:00:31 AM
@finecojeffe running it with the twin and small trailer fin:
(https://i.ibb.co/PQxtrbV/51-B6-D916-F8-B2-4-A69-B655-EC2-B2-CC9-B2-C8.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/R4kGrg2/860-F8-FA2-33-BD-4-BE6-8324-188-DF93219-E7.jpg)

maybe you could shape something similar for fun haha
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on May 26, 2022, 01:13:10 PM
That trailer almost directly between the twins is interesting. I definitely think of shaping a similar board. I'd like a small single fin, but not entirely sure I would put a wing on it (could be more due to my lack of confidence in shaping a proper wing though).

I did just finish up this twin plus trailer last week:

(https://i.ibb.co/ZXMxMZQ/IMG-8863.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r0wHwWB)

(https://i.ibb.co/8db8mLW/IMG-8866.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CM60w3k)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on May 27, 2022, 09:09:24 AM
That trailer almost directly between the twins is interesting. I definitely think of shaping a similar board. I'd like a small single fin, but not entirely sure I would put a wing on it (could be more due to my lack of confidence in shaping a proper wing though).

I did just finish up this twin plus trailer last week:

(https://i.ibb.co/ZXMxMZQ/IMG-8863.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r0wHwWB)

(https://i.ibb.co/8db8mLW/IMG-8866.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CM60w3k)

Yeah I don't get the purpose of the wing tbh, I need to look into it

damn, that thing is sick. nice work! getting better with each board
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: shpongle on May 28, 2022, 07:29:07 AM
Anyone here in NYC? I live in brooklyn and i am wondering how you guys get to and from the beach with the lease amount of hassle? I know you can rent a zipcar and drive there. Anyone here take their surfboards on the subway? Any tips n tricks?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on May 28, 2022, 10:14:13 AM
Anyone here in NYC? I live in brooklyn and i am wondering how you guys get to and from the beach with the lease amount of hassle? I know you can rent a zipcar and drive there. Anyone here take their surfboards on the subway? Any tips n tricks?
I drive in my car
They actually donít allow boards on the subway
No boards allowed in zip cars either
Locals are really nasty they will cut your leash and wax your windshield if you bring a zip car out there
Sorry
😇
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: funeral_tuxedo on May 28, 2022, 12:56:46 PM
Anyone here in NYC? I live in brooklyn and i am wondering how you guys get to and from the beach with the lease amount of hassle? I know you can rent a zipcar and drive there. Anyone here take their surfboards on the subway? Any tips n tricks?

it might be easiest for you to rent a locker out in either Rockaway or Long Beach and keep your board and suit there.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: ZumaThraxx on May 31, 2022, 02:54:42 PM
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/lFbdWq.jpg)


(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/dZ0CMl.jpg)

I can't believe it took me this long to realize slap has a surf thread, anyways I picked up this 5'11 my friend shaped for me this morning, I'm really hyped with how it came out. I haven't surfed a glass-on thruster in years so this is going to be a fun little summer experiment.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 06, 2022, 09:37:13 PM
@finecojeffe running it with the twin and small trailer fin:
(https://i.ibb.co/PQxtrbV/51-B6-D916-F8-B2-4-A69-B655-EC2-B2-CC9-B2-C8.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/R4kGrg2/860-F8-FA2-33-BD-4-BE6-8324-188-DF93219-E7.jpg)

maybe you could shape something similar for fun haha

I have those NPJ fins in the quad set on my groveler.  They are huge.I should try them as a twin + trailer on this board.

(https://i.imgur.com/t2DP00l.jpg)

I've had this board for a few years now. I had  Dan Murdey make a version of the Lost Bean Bag (I call it the baked bean) but he pulled in the tail a tad.
Super fun in small shitty waves...

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on June 07, 2022, 05:25:51 AM
that board looks great. The bean bag is a board that inspired me to start shaping really small boards. I think you'd love that npj twin plus trailer on that board. I've switch to twin + trailer on almost everything, although I've been going between the MR twin and the power twin sets. Surfing my thrusters with that setup has just been perfect.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on June 07, 2022, 10:51:20 AM
@Frank and Fred that thing looks fun. dig the color too hah
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on June 07, 2022, 10:57:51 AM
yeah, that thing looks like a blast

i learned how to surf on some fat stubs like that and i still think theyre ultra fun

how does the twin+trailer affect the boards you guys have been talking about? i imagine it splits the difference between a thruster and twin? similar to how a single+sidebites gives you something in between a single and thruster?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on June 07, 2022, 01:21:47 PM
yeah, that thing looks like a blast

i learned how to surf on some fat stubs like that and i still think theyre ultra fun

how does the twin+trailer affect the boards you guys have been talking about? i imagine it splits the difference between a thruster and twin? similar to how a single+sidebites gives you something in between a single and thruster?

lots of drive from the larger fins up front and a little hold from the trailer. It's like you said, split difference between twin and thruster.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 20, 2022, 10:02:55 AM
Well finally go try Channel Islands Spinetek wet. Pretty amazing. I knew it was a keeper after the fist backhand slash. About to hit the coast for a three day run. Going to take a few sets of fins and hope to try it as a quad and twin+trailer. Water finally warm enough for a 4/3mm also but the North winds might cause some upwelling so who knows.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on June 21, 2022, 09:11:20 AM
@Frank and Fred how's that three day run goin so far? jealous of the channel islands, looks super fun. been dreamin of getting one of these CI mikey february twin pins but there's no way I could afford rn lol:
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1442/7982/files/Twin-Pins-all-colors_2048x2048.jpg?v=1624469325)

a few weeks back  - we had a friend in town from japan who is 64 and all he wanted to do was surf everyday, so I felt obligated to fulfill that dream with him. I was out 13 days in a row, the longest streak i've ever had haha. I was dead by the end but also my body was kind of used to it. He ended up riding my friends mayhem evil twin I posted about a bit ago. I hope to still be surfing at his level at that age
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on June 22, 2022, 08:08:08 AM
64...thats the goal!....and way beyond if possible.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 22, 2022, 01:52:49 PM
@Huell Howser 13 days in a row. Solid! Been a long time since I have done that. Not since the days of being unemployed and living on the beach...

My 2 day campout was pretty lackluster. Our Spring curse continues. Some good moments here and there but funky conditions prevail. I can tell the board is going to be pretty amazing though. I didn't mess with fins but on some the more solid waves, I wish I'd tried it as a quad as I think that will tame the wider tail in solid surf... Looks like grovelers and my waterlogged delaminated longboard for the foreseeable future.

Trying to plan a late summer, K38 strike.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: tuesday on June 24, 2022, 10:30:03 PM
Don't know too much about surfing, but just saw a surf clip and started wondering whether surfing switch is a thing among pros?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rawr1922 on June 24, 2022, 11:29:20 PM
Don't know too much about surfing, but just saw a surf clip and started wondering whether surfing switch is a thing among pros?
Some pros definitely surf switch. JOB comes to mind, heís always doing crazy stuff. However, during surf competitions they donít. That would be crazy progression for pros landing switch air maneuvers during contests. Havenít watched a contest in awhile, I donít think itís at that point yetÖ could be wrong
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: rawr1922 on June 24, 2022, 11:36:10 PM
Moved inland and to a different state. Desperately missing the sea. A couple days ago, spontaneously decided to drive to the Outer Banks. Never been there & itís a 12 hour drive. Planning on staying there for at least 3 days. So pumped in the morning, made it about two hours then decided to turn back around lol. Just didnít have it in me to make that drive probably because just drove across country when I moved a few months ago. Just got to thinking , maybe driving there to surf not feasible. Started brainstorming by imagining flying to Virginia then getting a rental car for OBX mission. All seems pricey. Thinking might as well just save my money & go to Hawaii once a year. Long story short, I miss surfing

Edit: After typing that all out, got me thinking more. The Great Lakes closer to me. Have any of you surfed the Great Lakes before?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on June 25, 2022, 06:20:15 AM
Don't know too much about surfing, but just saw a surf clip and started wondering whether surfing switch is a thing among pros?

Check this clip of buttons around 3 minutes, he talks about going switch https://youtu.be/F06FlVg6vtI

Thereís one clip Iíve seen of him^ switching back and forth in the midst of cutting back between switch and regular multiple times on one wave. Itís nuts haha


Also, joel Tudor comes to mind but usually on a longboard. As far as more ďperformanceĒĎsurfing I am not the most familiar but Iím sure it happens...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: tuesday on June 26, 2022, 10:07:09 AM
Thanks guys for the replies. Thought it might look tight going bs up a wave and then body varialing into fs slashing the lip. 
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Burt Ward on June 28, 2022, 06:15:05 AM
Don't know too much about surfing, but just saw a surf clip and started wondering whether surfing switch is a thing among pros?

Noa Deane recently did a switch alley oop in Volcom's, Lobotomy. @20:42

www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuCgmKQnBfM&t=1269s&ab_channel=Volcom
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on June 28, 2022, 10:27:03 AM
Last night I spun bs 270 and went down. This happens lots, but I went down really hard and the side of my head smacked the water so hard I realized this type of impact could potentially knock me out. Came away with just a mild headache, but it's a wake up call.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: shpongle on June 28, 2022, 01:59:06 PM
(https://i.ibb.co/qpcDszb/517-F8774-D655-4116-916-D-EDB9-EF77117-B.png) (https://imgbb.com/)

I would like to share my favorite surf photo ever
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on June 28, 2022, 03:09:20 PM
Last night I spun bs 270 and went down. This happens lots, but I went down really hard and the side of my head smacked the water so hard I realized this type of impact could potentially knock me out. Came away with just a mild headache, but it's a wake up call.

What were you trying to do?

I've definitely smacked my head and got whiplash on a few occasions catching a rail on a bad turn or getting pitched by the lip. Water can hurt.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on June 28, 2022, 04:07:25 PM
@Frank and Fred  I was trying to spin a 360. I've done a few, but often stall, then put too much weight on the backfoot trying to bring it around, as in this case. Felt pretty much  like blocking on a fs powerslide, I was pretty high on the face of the wave and came down hard.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on June 29, 2022, 05:32:54 AM
that sucks man, hopefully the headache is gone by now and you stick the next 360.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on June 30, 2022, 10:24:18 AM
Last night I spun bs 270 and went down. This happens lots, but I went down really hard and the side of my head smacked the water so hard I realized this type of impact could potentially knock me out. Came away with just a mild headache, but it's a wake up call.

I fell going really fast on a waist-chest high day last summer and I skipped across the water really weird and I definitely felt that minor concussion dizzy/confused feeling.
I was shocked because I fall worse than that all the time but I just landed weird
surface tension is no joke
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on June 30, 2022, 01:37:36 PM
earlier this week after reading @botefdunn ^ smacking his head, i caught my nose on a steeper late drop and did a cartwheel and definitely smacked the side of my face/head pretty hard. was actually a bit shook for a second after hah
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on June 30, 2022, 06:28:28 PM
earlier this week after reading @botefdunn ^ smacking his head, i caught my nose on a steeper late drop and did a cartwheel and definitely smacked the side of my face/head pretty hard. was actually a bit shook for a second after hah

glad you're alright, yeah i felt a little shook too just thinking what if it had knocked me out...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on July 01, 2022, 09:15:20 AM
I made the mistake of reading this guys account of a few different shark encounters:
https://www.surfersjournal.com/editorial/the-archivist-george-greenoughs-shark-files/

freaky stuff haha
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on July 03, 2022, 11:40:36 AM
The wife scored a free place to stay near Lincoln City but this is pretty significant flat spell for us. Ended up getting a couple of solid skate sessions at the park instead but found some loggable waves on the way home to rinse of the skate sweat. can't complain when you get to grind pool coping and slide a few waves in the same day.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on July 06, 2022, 08:54:23 AM
The wife scored a free place to stay near Lincoln City but this is pretty significant flat spell for us. Ended up getting a couple of solid skate sessions at the park instead but found some loggable waves on the way home to rinse of the skate sweat. can't complain when you get to grind pool coping and slide a few waves in the same day.

you're taking about the waves right (i hope)?  ;D
sounds pretty awesome, thanks for the vicarious stoke
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Brandon on July 06, 2022, 06:21:26 PM
anybody around the central coast of california (morro bay, cayucos, cambria) have tips for beginner-friendly spots? have been heavily obsessing over surfing for the past few months and just picked up my first board from wavelengths in morro bay. eyeing moonstone beach as my local wave since it's ~20 mins from me, but open to any other suggestions!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvpMIUscMMc
(not gonna be out when it's this big...yet)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on July 06, 2022, 09:27:04 PM
Expand Quote
The wife scored a free place to stay near Lincoln City but this is pretty significant flat spell for us. Ended up getting a couple of solid skate sessions at the park instead but found some loggable waves on the way home to rinse of the skate sweat. can't complain when you get to grind pool coping and slide a few waves in the same day.
[close]

you're taking about the waves right (i hope)?  ;D
sounds pretty awesome, thanks for the vicarious stoke

Haha. Mostly... although... at my age...  :-X
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on July 16, 2022, 11:00:15 AM
Been flat and super windy here forever, this is the second weekend I drive around an hour, willing to go in for next to nothing and not even finding that.  Iím dyin.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on July 16, 2022, 07:43:30 PM
Been flat and super windy here forever, this is the second weekend I drive around an hour, willing to go in for next to nothing and not even finding that.  Iím dyin.

Hang in there!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on July 16, 2022, 08:36:24 PM
Been flat and super windy here forever, this is the second weekend I drive around an hour, willing to go in for next to nothing and not even finding that.  Iím dyin.
Do you keep any alternative water gear in the car for occasions like this? I used to bring a shitty skimboard out when I wanted to get wet but the waves were total shit. I wanna get some flippers soon, thatís another way to scratch the itch. Some people like fishing?
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on July 17, 2022, 09:54:24 AM
Expand Quote
Been flat and super windy here forever, this is the second weekend I drive around an hour, willing to go in for next to nothing and not even finding that.  Iím dyin.
[close]
Do you keep any alternative water gear in the car for occasions like this? I used to bring a shitty skimboard out when I wanted to get wet but the waves were total shit. I wanna get some flippers soon, thatís another way to scratch the itch. Some people like fishing?

Swim Fins are a good call but hard to get motivated when the water is under 60F. I usually pack some hiking boots, a camera and do a little exploration. Fishing sounds rad though.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: shpongle on July 18, 2022, 07:45:19 AM
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb4Nm5ivGk8/

Got a little clip of me surfing on a Channel islands 5í3 fishbeard

https://www.instagram.com/p/CfrnZjUuCM2/
And a lil off the top
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on July 18, 2022, 08:23:03 AM
Stylin @shpongle !

Looking like Craig Ando out there.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on July 19, 2022, 11:38:28 AM
damn @shpongle lookin good out there! That fish beard looks fun.

I am currently trying to sell off a korg synth to get a used hypto krypto. trying not to feel guilty about spending money.... haha
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on July 26, 2022, 04:59:27 PM
I know itís a shitty pic, and Iím not the guy in it.. but after 4 years of surfing, I finally got to surf in my hometown for the first time.  Beautiful beach in a small fishing town that doesnít often get good waves, but I was passing through on a work trip, brought my board and got lucky today.  This was the juice I needed after several underwhelming sessions at my local.

(http://i.ibb.co/kJjGgCP/D314-A6-A0-3600-4-D81-B77-E-1-D7-B0850-C6-B8.jpg)
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on July 26, 2022, 06:19:25 PM
Where's your home town @Coastal Fever ?

Another mediocre 'session' today that makes me question why I bother. I suppose its all training for when the waves get good and its good to keep up the paddling muscles but seriously I probably had two passable waves today...

oh how much more I could achieve on my skateboard in 2.5 hours... and stupidly I didn't pack my skateboard today so no post-surf grinds...
on the plus side, the turns I did manage felt really good on the twin-fin and lots of pelicans flying overhead... favorite bird for sure.

Anyway, I reckon about one more month before we start seeing some better conditions up here in the PNW.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on July 26, 2022, 06:28:05 PM
Thatís in Mavillette, Nova Scotia.  Definitely not to be confused with the other Mavs haha.  Water was around 17c, which was warm enough to finally ditch the gloves and boots.  Just wearing a 4/3 is about as good as it gets.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on July 27, 2022, 05:40:11 AM
Where's your home town @Coastal Fever ?

Another mediocre 'session' today that makes me question why I bother. I suppose its all training for when the waves get good and its good to keep up the paddling muscles but seriously I probably had two passable waves today...

oh how much more I could achieve on my skateboard in 2.5 hours... and stupidly I didn't pack my skateboard today so no post-surf grinds...
on the plus side, the turns I did manage felt really good on the twin-fin and lots of pelicans flying overhead... favorite bird for sure.

Anyway, I reckon about one more month before we start seeing some better conditions up here in the PNW.

I feel the same. We have near zero for waves here in Miami for the summer months. I actually went out this morning before work for 45 minutes and had maybe 1 wave that I could stretch a turn out on, and everything else was a sub 1' closeout. I view these days as workouts though too...so not all is lost and I don't get too down on it. It was crowded too which always sucks, but I and all the other surfers here have barely more than 1 break.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on July 27, 2022, 08:03:49 AM
I try not to have a sour attitude but skateboarding is such an accessible positive thing and a good time 99% of the time, I wonder why I continue to torture myself with surfing. Then I score the odd head high glassy and sunny day with just a few friends, when my board and mind are working well together and I get to link some turns, crank though some sections and it all makes sense... Those days have been very infrequent in 2022 though... I keep blaming La Nina.

not to mention how grumpy everyone can be in the water... show up at the curb spot and everyone greets you like an old friend...

Anyway.... onward we go...
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: lemonchicken91 on July 28, 2022, 06:23:31 AM
Been feeling the same way. I love surfing more than skating when the stars align but it is so much frustration between tose moments.

Skating I can just pick up and go for 5 minutes if I please

Problem is I get hurt more skating
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: mj23 on August 01, 2022, 11:53:08 AM
yeah summers are tough, but even going for a swim on a warm day is always worth it imo

im still having fun on the mini simmons even when waves are trash

its such a funny little burst of speed you can get from even the shittiest little ripple

honestly i almost prefer it because if i go catch some summertime 1 footers there's basically nobody out, and those who do go thru the motions are not usually acting aggro at all. similar to skating a curb in a lot of ways, tbh
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on August 03, 2022, 08:42:28 AM
Finally had a couple of passable sessions with a swift sundowner/campout/ dawn  patrol. Some NW wind swell actually cleaned up and wrapped into a couple of coves to produce some small but serviceable waves. Nearly took the bashed up old Longboard but glad I took the orange groveler I posted above. It turns weak 2' waves into a fun time.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on August 03, 2022, 10:18:30 AM
@Frank and Fred nice, glad to hear you got some waves. that groveler seems like a great board to mess around on in some sloppy waves

I tore my meniscus around a year ago and its unfortunately bothering me again. taking a few weeks off surfing/skating and just riding my bike to fill that void.

was on the hunt for a hypto krypto and ending up finding a super clean used one for cheap so I picked it up...
5'10 x 20 1/4 x 2 5/8 at 33.79L - smallest board I have owned so I will need to get used to the paddle but these things are known for having a lot of foam up front
(https://i.ibb.co/rZDytxs/DCDA4-F2-F-6-E40-42-F3-8-FF3-C3-D9-FA55-DF80.jpg)


can't wait to take it out. doing daily strengthing exercises in hopes of getting out there faster haha

Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on August 04, 2022, 08:15:21 AM
Those HKs look like quiver killers. Heal up soon. @Huell Howser
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on August 04, 2022, 10:36:29 AM
@Frank and Fred n

I tore my meniscus around a year ago and its unfortunately bothering me again. taking a few weeks off surfing/skating and just riding my bike to fill that void.


bummer. i tore mine a couple years ago, had surgery, and it started acting up again a few weeks ago just from overuse i think. It felt weird and swollen but painless, and a friend suggested it was liquid built up in the joint, and to try deep massage. I've gone at it a few times with foam roller, rolling pin, and digging a wooden spoon into the ligaments at the back of the knee and it is startin to feel a whole lot better. Don't know if this will work for you but might be worth a shot.
Sorry, I'm blah blahing. Your new board looks nice, good all around. I have a similar one, 5'9 santa cruz with a "chest bump" for extra volume up front.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on August 06, 2022, 01:31:30 PM
Somebody died yesterday at my local. I guess this is more or less common in the ocean, but it's the first fatality I've heard of at my river spot. I've had some scary experiences and knew it could happen, but it's still a wake up call.Be safe out there.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Coastal Fever on August 06, 2022, 03:45:30 PM
Jesus, so sorry to hear that man.  I donít get river surfing at all.  Watched some clips of people doing it on the St Lawrence and I donít get how you get in/out safely without being swept kms away??  They always leave that footage out for some reason.  All I saw was dudes shredding then wiping out and disappearing.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: botefdunn on August 07, 2022, 08:43:15 AM
@Coastal Fever I'm on the st lawrence (habitat) , and getting out after the waves is a very rough swim like you said. Once you get used to the spot though, you know what to expect, where the whirlpools are gonna be, currents etc. and you ride it out without popping your adrenaline/panicking.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on August 07, 2022, 12:19:31 PM
A teenager died getting caught in an underwater grate at the standing wave in Bend Or.

https://www.opb.org/article/2022/06/08/bend-makes-changes-to-surf-wave-after-teens-death/ (https://www.opb.org/article/2022/06/08/bend-makes-changes-to-surf-wave-after-teens-death/)

In brighter news, looks like pretty decent conditions early this week for northern Oregon, which also coincides with me being able to get loose from work.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Huell Howser on August 08, 2022, 10:13:00 AM
@botefdunn damn, that's sad to hear. just checked some clips as well and that looks like it could definitely get intense at times. that current looks so strong. wow

@Frank and Fred hope you score some waves this week!
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: Frank and Fred on August 10, 2022, 08:18:35 AM
Well, turned out pretty fun. Got my new Rocket Wide out in some very glassy conditions. Not much power but it was about waist to shoulder high. backing off a little on the peak but once up and running there was shape and room enough for some turns. I had the Captain Fin Co Dane set finned up. Two big sides fins a nd small rear. Pretty stoked on one particular mid face forehand slash I did. Fun day and even got a little Oregon sunburn. Can't wait to play around with this board some more.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: homicidalpsychojunglecat on August 11, 2022, 11:54:33 PM
Back on the board in NZ after busting my shoulder and then getting hammered by Covid. We've just had a run of small 2ft days for the past week and it's been great for easing back into it. Been on my Christenson fish mainly, great boards and so fast it's unreal.  Hope everyone's getting waves.
Title: Re: Surfing
Post by: finecojeffe on August 15, 2022, 06:05:27 AM
drove from Miami to Ocean City, NJ last week to visit my parents and was finally able to catch a few small waves. What wasn't expected was the 55ļ water! That upwelling really wasn't too fun. I wear a wetsuit barely a handful of times each year but never in August.