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Skateboarding => Shoes & Gear => Topic started by: rails on April 07, 2017, 09:07:39 AM
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bearings over the years:
Speed Demons abec 7 ~ 2000
Mini-Logo ~ 2001
Bones Red ~ 2002
Enjoi ~ 2008
Bones Red ~ 2013
Steadfast abec 3 ~ 2013
Element ~ 2013
Spitfire Cheapshots ~ 2013
Plan B abec 3 ~ 2013
Spitfire Cheapshots ~ 2014
Bones Swiss ~ 2014
Independent Genuine Parts ~ 2017
Bronson G2 ~ 2017
i bought the Independent and Bronson bearings yesterday. haven't opened the Bronson package yet and keeping the receipt. The Independent bearings are ten dollars and I damaged the shields on at least three of them in set-up processes.
I have two sets of wheels. On the Rowley Street Heat 54mm 99a Orange Juice wheels I have two Speed Demons, two Enjoi, one 2013 Spitfire, two Independent, and one 2002 Bones Red. On the Lose Your Marbles 52mm 98a Girl wheels I have one Element, one 2013 Spitfire, three Independent, one 2002 Bones Red, one Steadfast, and one Plan B.
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What happened between 2014-2017?
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What happened between 2014-2017?
He rode Bones Swiss which he should've done the whole time
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What happened between 2014-2017?
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What happened between 2014-2017?
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What happened between 2014-2017?
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Just get some Swiss loser.
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Swiss or nothing.
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Get ready to replace those Bronson's after a few weeks.
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Get ready to replace those Bronson's after a few weeks.
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on a budget;
(http://theboardshop.eu/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1200x1200/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/7/17340-bone-super-reds-bearing-1.jpg)
have $45 to spare and dont wanna get bearings again for the next few years;
(http://cdn3.volusion.com/dqrn4.mt7tc/v/vspfiles/photos/BRAWBX816-2.jpg)
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bearings over the years:
Speed Demons abec 7 ~ 2000
Mini-Logo ~ 2001
Bones Red ~ 2002
Enjoi ~ 2008
Bones Red ~ 2013
Steadfast abec 3 ~ 2013
Element ~ 2013
Spitfire Cheapshots ~ 2013
Plan B abec 3 ~ 2013
Spitfire Cheapshots ~ 2014
Bones Swiss ~ 2014
Independent Genuine Parts ~ 2017
Bronson G2 ~ 2017
i bought the Independent and Bronson bearings yesterday. haven't opened the Bronson package yet and keeping the receipt. The Independent bearings are ten dollars and I damaged the shields on at least three of them in set-up processes.
I have two sets of wheels. On the Rowley Street Heat 54mm 99a Orange Juice wheels I have two Speed Demons, two Enjoi, one 2013 Spitfire, two Independent, and one 2002 Bones Red. On the Lose Your Marbles 52mm 98a Girl wheels I have one Element, one 2013 Spitfire, three Independent, one 2002 Bones Red, one Steadfast, and one Plan B.
You're doing it wrong.
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Get ready to replace those Bronson's after a few weeks.
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Get ready to replace those Bronson's after a few weeks.
absolute facts, the g3s I set up are garbage after not even 3 weeks. pretty bummed. might try and grab first pair of bones swiss to replace.
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best budget bearings.
http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html (http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html)
other than that just get some bones swiss.
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You're missing out on the Black Panthers
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I'm pretty OCD about a lot of aspects of my setup, but bearings is not one of them. I just put em in and forget about them. As long as the cages are nylon and aren't metal, and the shields are removable, then I'm good to go. As of right now I'm riding a whole batch of mismatched bearings, just whatever I can find lying around while setting up new wheels or something. Pretty sure they're a mix of mini logos, reds, shake junts, and destroyers. I think one of them might be a bones swiss, so that's pretty cool i guess.
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I'm pretty OCD about a lot of aspects of my setup, but bearings is not one of them. I just put em in and forget about them. As long as the cages are nylon and aren't metal, and the shields are removable, then I'm good to go. As of right now I'm riding a whole batch of mismatched bearings, just whatever I can find lying around while setting up new wheels or something. Pretty sure they're a mix of mini logos, reds, shake junts, and destroyers. I think one of them might be a bones swiss, so that's pretty cool i guess.
I feel almost the same, as long as nylon cage, and removable shields I really don't care about the brand or anything. As long as they are NOT metal cage or shields.
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best budget bearings.
http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html (http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html)
other than that just get some bones swiss.
Are those actually good? I've thought about getting them before. Myh bearings are good now but who knows what the future holds for my bearing game. Also Hardluck ceramics are just as good as swiss. Just throwing that out there.
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I've got Bronson G3's which aren't bad, but once my ankle feels like it's ready to skate I'm going back to Swiss. I did 6 years on one set before breaking a bearing, I still don't know why I got Bronson's instead of Swiss'.
We all make dumb mistakes sometimes.
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best budget bearings.
http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html (http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html)
other than that just get some bones swiss.
I have them on one of my set ups and they are hella fast. Plus skatewarehouse has them for cheap right now.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/98xe20.png)
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Let's see the spread sheet. ::)
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What happened between 2014-2017?
Seriously. Why would you get anything else? Those 6 Ball Swiss bearings last forever, but if you just have $30-$45 just get the regular Swiss. It's better than having to buy new bearings and swap them out every other session.
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I have Swiss on most of my quiver but I've had great luck with Bronson g3s. Put them on my kids board and they're in great shape for being a year old. Been through countless puddles and haven't siezed or slowed down.
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Are Super Reds worth the time? Anywhere to get Swiss cheap online in Europe?
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Are Super Reds worth the time? Anywhere to get Swiss cheap online in Europe?
Currently skating some right now. They're solid. Don't know if they're that much faster than normal reds but i imagine they might a last a little longer.
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best budget bearings.
http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html (http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html)
other than that just get some bones swiss.
I have them on one of my set ups and they are hella fast. Plus skatewarehouse has them for cheap right now.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/98xe20.png)
They're good, I had them on my cruiser and they lasted a good amount of time and were really fast, even survived being skated in the rain for a while. Definitely on par with reds. The only downside is the shield's aren't removable so if the shields jam your fucked.
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Are Super Reds worth the time? Anywhere to get Swiss cheap online in Europe?
Currently skating some right now. They're solid. Don't know if they're that much faster than normal reds but i imagine they might a last a little longer.
Super reds are a noticeable enough improvement that I stopped getting normal reds altogether. More reliable/last longer, not sure if they're faster.. maybe.
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best budget bearings.
http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html (http://www.skatewarehouse.com/1111_Bearings/descpage-1111BR.html)
other than that just get some bones swiss.
In my experience bones swiss are smoother and quieter. hardluck ceramics are dumb fast though, I was very pleasantly surprised, was my first set of anything ceramic
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When I started I always rode Bones Reds. As I got better I started riding Bones Super Swiss 6.
Recently Ive been skating Bronson Raw because someone hooked it up when my last Super Six blew out.
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If I could find it I will post it but this post on another site I found about skate bearings really flipped my reality and when I actually got to try these certain bearings it blew me away
So supposedly any bearing even super reds and reds made in China, any bearings “made in China” are all trash quality
The best bearings, such as bones more premium selections like Swiss, Swiss 6, modus and I forgot , are made in Germany and Switzerland by actual bearing engineers
My experience with this was getting some modus which are made in Germany I think the guy said and damn...seriously seriously seriously compared to my super reds I ran for a year these $10 bearings were faster and just felt wayyyyy better out of the box! Just so I wasn’t kooking it up cause I’m comparing worn bearings to brand new ones I also got some mini logos and they felt like reds but got bad faster out the gate, they felt nothing compared to modus
But to try and shorten it Incase you skip to here, don’t buy bearings made in China. Buy trusted bearings made in Germany or Switzerland
P.s. the guy who made the post was an actual engineer with experience in bearings and mentioned all the script standards about abec rating and torsional loads and side to side loads and all that skate bearing talk so I trust and back him ever since trying modus
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Posted by Rocket Ron, on the Concrete Deciples site... Original link is not working anymore:
"We here's what I've learned. I am a bearing engineer of almost 20 years dealing with miniature bearings for skate, aircraft, aerospace, and NASA applications dealing with all aspects of design, and ABEC specification. More recently my nephew and I started our own High Tech Bearing Company six months ago, Ok enough bullshit. The ABEC is the allowable tolerance. The ABEC 1 tolerance for the bore of a 608 bearing is .3150" +.0000 / -.0003".==== that means the Bore could be anywhere from .3147-.3150" (8MM). ==== ABEC 7 is .3150 +.0000 / -.0002. (.3148-.3150) What does all this mean??? The Abec tolerance is all but INSIGNIFICANT in a skate application. Skateboard Truck Axels are not manufactured to the same tight tolerances as the Bearing. And the O.D. of the Bearing goes in a flexible urathane wheel. This eliminates any possible advantage of the Abec tolerance would give to assure accurate fit. The Abec is the DIMENTIONAL TOLERANCES. The Abec tolerance does cover out of roundness and for this reason I would use ABEC 3 or better. Almost any bearing with the country of origin on the bearing except for china will be Abec 3 or better. Back in the 80's they had to sort bearing lots to get the Abec 3 and Abec 7 Bearings. Todays modern machines make to Abec 3 or better even if they are marketed as abec 1. They will have an Abec 3 price and a Abec 1 price to give you a choise, but it will be the same Abec 3 bearing. ANY BEARINGS FROM CHINA WILL NOT BE BETTER THAN ABEC 1. China will put "ABEC 7" or "FUCK YOU" on the bearing if you order 5000 or more!! No laws in China against that. You cant mis-mark the bearings in the other bearing manufacturing Countries. Bearings with a Metal Ball Cage have a 40,000 RPM Rating. Plastic Cage = 100,000-150,000 RPM.
WHAT IS IMPORTANT. 1) The Manufacturer. All Chinese bearings are crap. All those weird name brands are shit. Top of the Line bearing manufactuers make 608's with the proper Raceway Curvature, cages and internal clearances. WIB, GMN, GRW and NMB manufacture the best bearings in the world for skateboard. For those of you not fimiliar with these names, WIB makes all the bearings for "Bones" All Bones bearings marked "Swiss" are manufacturered by WIB Miniature Bearing in Switzerland for Bones. GMN and GRW make all the German Bearings no matter what name may be marketet on the shield. Plastic or non-metalic ball cage will make more way more difference in speed than any ABEC change.
OPTIMAL BEARING: I have used everything in the world, Ceramics manufactured just for my SkateBoard, Abec 9, Bearings Manufacturered by every bearing company in the world. I have access to over 400 Lubricants in my field.
WHAT DO I SKATE ON ???
The best bearing by design right now is the Super Swiss 6 by Bones with SpeedCream. The Bearing had several advantages. 1) It is manufactured by WIB Bearing. 2) They are made with a tight Raceway curvature to avoid "Excess Axial Play" 3) They are supplied with a Re-enforced plastic cage rated at 150,000 RPM 4)Laberinth Non-Contacting Rubber Seals to keep out dirt. This is the obtimum design for free rotation and keeping out contamination.
Ceramic Ball Bearings are only good if they come with Plastic or Phenolic Ball Cages. As a Hardcore skater skating 4-5 days a week. Super Swiss 6 with Speed cream cant be beat. Fuc* the Abec rating. The Abec rating is designed so that the bearing has manufacturing consistancy in order to manufacture mating parts to simular tolerances. (Re: Precision Shafting and Housings.)
Ron
Oh Yeah
... one more note on why the Super swiss 6 has lower starting and running torque (This is Known as Speed to us skateboarders)
All 608's are made with 7 ball compliment. The Super Swiss 6 is the ONLY 608 manufactured with a 6 ball compliment. The Balls all bigger, can take higher load (Impact), Have less ball surphase touching the raceway with 6 balls instead of 7 which lowers the running torque of the bearing making the bearing get to full speed quicker. I am sure within the next year you will start seeing more 6 ball designs, but right now its WIB(Bones) that makes 'em...At all possible, stick with German or Swiss with Plastic or non-metalic ball cages. Any bearing with a steel cage will be slower no matter where it's made. Grease is just an oil with a thickener, the thickener in the grease will slow down your bearing and running just oil will attract contaminates from far away and not provide proper protection. Use the Good-old Speed Cream in the skate shops. By buying German or Swiss what is important is you will know the bearing is manufactuered by a very high quality bearing manufacturer who does the final raceway polishing what the chinese dont, and who it is. There are so many names and marketing stratagies going on with Chinese Bearings, you will get lost in it all. At my old Company we brought in Chinese Bearings for .12 Each. We had the Stamping machines to Mark the Shields. We did PIG,GIRL,SPEED DEMONS, and several others. All were from the same manufacturing lot with different color/marked shields. Any of those weird brands are probably a .12-.18 cent bearing made by the millions with no quality control and several key manufacturing processes left out in order to sell the U.S. for .12 cents.
Bearings marked "Thailand" = NMB
Bearings marked "German" = GMN or GRW
Bearings marked "Swiss" = WIB Bearing
Someone mentioned to me SKF Bearings. SKF Bearings are manufactured in almost every country in the world. SKF no longer manufacturers miniature bearings and hasen't for over 10 years, SKF Contracts out their miniature bearings to the Miniature Bearing Manufactuers. Last year it was IKS and NTN. Could be someone different next year. SKF Specialises in Large Bearings. Don't use SKF....
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Yes, the Bones-Chinese[Reds] are in the same class as the other Chinese Bearings. Bones China are may be a little better than the other China or unmarked brands as far as consitancy since they probably been using the same China trading Company for years, but still is a .12-.14 cent bearing.
. . . . . . .
On your third question the smaller balls tend to brinell the bearing races easier than the larger ball will. A brinelled race will have little indends from the balls impact, basically destroying the bearing. Thicker races will make the bearing a little stronger from the standpoint of cracking the races, but that should be a rarity. But Brinelling the bearing is more common than cracking races..Should be...
As far as Bearing failure, Brinneling is one reason, Lack of proper lubrication is #1 cause for bearing failure because once you run metal on metal and balls and raceways get scored, everything will wear and fail quickly.
As far as Oust Bearings...Its another Marketing Stategy. Look, it comes down to everything I said in these bearing post as far as the bearings configuration. Notice the low end Oust MOC5 is "Carbon Steel Cage" with standard non-contacting rubber seals. Their Rolls royce is the MOC9. Here is their desciption of the Seal "The Moc 9 Buna Non-Contact Seal is set into a U-channel design in the inner and outer races to keep all foreign particles out of the ball area. It also stops any oil leakage that might occur on a standard bearing seal." THIS IS THE LABYRINTH INNER RING and seal weve been discussing that the Bones-Swiss, Black Hole Bearings have. The MOC9 also comes with a non-metalic cage....thats what makes it quicker than the MOC5. No matter what brand you like, 1) get bearings with a non-metalic cage 2) Buy the bearings with the Labyring inner ring and seal design,no matter what they may call it. Your bearings will outlast a dozen sets of the old style shielded bearings.
. . . . . . .
The Swiss and German manufacturers make their 608 with a tighter raceway curvature as well (harder to mfr.) than the Chinese. This eliminates a lot of excess axial play(end play)in the bearing.
. . . . . . .
....As far as installing, VERY good question indeed. You can ruin a bearing installing it before it turns even once on your axel. The Rule is "Only apply preasure to the ring being mounted." To put the bearing in your wheel, some people put the bearing on the axel, unside down and press the wheel on the bearing. BAD ! The pressure against the balls can brinnell the raceway if hit with too much force. Since the Outer Ring is being mounted in the Wheel you need to apply preasure to the outer ring only! Not the inner ring. I use an Old bearing that I disassembled and have the outer ring only, put it against the outer ring of the bearing being mounted, and a small block of wood and rubber mallet. As far as removing them, another good reason not to re-use the bearings. The same rule applied to dis-assembly if the bearing is to be salvaged. However, there is no way of removing the bearing using the outer ring. Even the bearing pullers must remove the bearing by pulling on the inner ring. Brinelling will not happen everytime you mis-mount the bearings, but the degree of damage can be so slight, you may not notice. Yes, I use a bearing puller when removing bearings, however, bearing pullers were desighed for alot bigger, more durable bearings. Using a Bearing Puller on a Miniature can and will cause at least microscopic damage almost every time. Remember: Only apply pressure to the ring being mounted. Alot of people ruin their bearings before they even start!!!
"
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Posted by Rocket Ron, on the Concrete Deciples site... Original link is not working anymore:
"We here's what I've learned. I am a bearing engineer of almost 20 years dealing with miniature bearings for skate, aircraft, aerospace, and NASA applications dealing with all aspects of design, and ABEC specification. More recently my nephew and I started our own High Tech Bearing Company six months ago, Ok enough bullshit. The ABEC is the allowable tolerance. The ABEC 1 tolerance for the bore of a 608 bearing is .3150" +.0000 / -.0003".==== that means the Bore could be anywhere from .3147-.3150" (8MM). ==== ABEC 7 is .3150 +.0000 / -.0002. (.3148-.3150) What does all this mean??? The Abec tolerance is all but INSIGNIFICANT in a skate application. Skateboard Truck Axels are not manufactured to the same tight tolerances as the Bearing. And the O.D. of the Bearing goes in a flexible urathane wheel. This eliminates any possible advantage of the Abec tolerance would give to assure accurate fit. The Abec is the DIMENTIONAL TOLERANCES. The Abec tolerance does cover out of roundness and for this reason I would use ABEC 3 or better. Almost any bearing with the country of origin on the bearing except for china will be Abec 3 or better. Back in the 80's they had to sort bearing lots to get the Abec 3 and Abec 7 Bearings. Todays modern machines make to Abec 3 or better even if they are marketed as abec 1. They will have an Abec 3 price and a Abec 1 price to give you a choise, but it will be the same Abec 3 bearing. ANY BEARINGS FROM CHINA WILL NOT BE BETTER THAN ABEC 1. China will put "ABEC 7" or "FUCK YOU" on the bearing if you order 5000 or more!! No laws in China against that. You cant mis-mark the bearings in the other bearing manufacturing Countries. Bearings with a Metal Ball Cage have a 40,000 RPM Rating. Plastic Cage = 100,000-150,000 RPM.
WHAT IS IMPORTANT. 1) The Manufacturer. All Chinese bearings are crap. All those weird name brands are shit. Top of the Line bearing manufactuers make 608's with the proper Raceway Curvature, cages and internal clearances. WIB, GMN, GRW and NMB manufacture the best bearings in the world for skateboard. For those of you not fimiliar with these names, WIB makes all the bearings for "Bones" All Bones bearings marked "Swiss" are manufacturered by WIB Miniature Bearing in Switzerland for Bones. GMN and GRW make all the German Bearings no matter what name may be marketet on the shield. Plastic or non-metalic ball cage will make more way more difference in speed than any ABEC change.
OPTIMAL BEARING: I have used everything in the world, Ceramics manufactured just for my SkateBoard, Abec 9, Bearings Manufacturered by every bearing company in the world. I have access to over 400 Lubricants in my field.
WHAT DO I SKATE ON ???
The best bearing by design right now is the Super Swiss 6 by Bones with SpeedCream. The Bearing had several advantages. 1) It is manufactured by WIB Bearing. 2) They are made with a tight Raceway curvature to avoid "Excess Axial Play" 3) They are supplied with a Re-enforced plastic cage rated at 150,000 RPM 4)Laberinth Non-Contacting Rubber Seals to keep out dirt. This is the obtimum design for free rotation and keeping out contamination.
Ceramic Ball Bearings are only good if they come with Plastic or Phenolic Ball Cages. As a Hardcore skater skating 4-5 days a week. Super Swiss 6 with Speed cream cant be beat. Fuc* the Abec rating. The Abec rating is designed so that the bearing has manufacturing consistancy in order to manufacture mating parts to simular tolerances. (Re: Precision Shafting and Housings.)
Ron
Oh Yeah
... one more note on why the Super swiss 6 has lower starting and running torque (This is Known as Speed to us skateboarders)
All 608's are made with 7 ball compliment. The Super Swiss 6 is the ONLY 608 manufactured with a 6 ball compliment. The Balls all bigger, can take higher load (Impact), Have less ball surphase touching the raceway with 6 balls instead of 7 which lowers the running torque of the bearing making the bearing get to full speed quicker. I am sure within the next year you will start seeing more 6 ball designs, but right now its WIB(Bones) that makes 'em...At all possible, stick with German or Swiss with Plastic or non-metalic ball cages. Any bearing with a steel cage will be slower no matter where it's made. Grease is just an oil with a thickener, the thickener in the grease will slow down your bearing and running just oil will attract contaminates from far away and not provide proper protection. Use the Good-old Speed Cream in the skate shops. By buying German or Swiss what is important is you will know the bearing is manufactuered by a very high quality bearing manufacturer who does the final raceway polishing what the chinese dont, and who it is. There are so many names and marketing stratagies going on with Chinese Bearings, you will get lost in it all. At my old Company we brought in Chinese Bearings for .12 Each. We had the Stamping machines to Mark the Shields. We did PIG,GIRL,SPEED DEMONS, and several others. All were from the same manufacturing lot with different color/marked shields. Any of those weird brands are probably a .12-.18 cent bearing made by the millions with no quality control and several key manufacturing processes left out in order to sell the U.S. for .12 cents.
Bearings marked "Thailand" = NMB
Bearings marked "German" = GMN or GRW
Bearings marked "Swiss" = WIB Bearing
Someone mentioned to me SKF Bearings. SKF Bearings are manufactured in almost every country in the world. SKF no longer manufacturers miniature bearings and hasen't for over 10 years, SKF Contracts out their miniature bearings to the Miniature Bearing Manufactuers. Last year it was IKS and NTN. Could be someone different next year. SKF Specialises in Large Bearings. Don't use SKF....
. . . . . .
Yes, the Bones-Chinese[Reds] are in the same class as the other Chinese Bearings. Bones China are may be a little better than the other China or unmarked brands as far as consitancy since they probably been using the same China trading Company for years, but still is a .12-.14 cent bearing.
. . . . . . .
On your third question the smaller balls tend to brinell the bearing races easier than the larger ball will. A brinelled race will have little indends from the balls impact, basically destroying the bearing. Thicker races will make the bearing a little stronger from the standpoint of cracking the races, but that should be a rarity. But Brinelling the bearing is more common than cracking races..Should be...
As far as Bearing failure, Brinneling is one reason, Lack of proper lubrication is #1 cause for bearing failure because once you run metal on metal and balls and raceways get scored, everything will wear and fail quickly.
As far as Oust Bearings...Its another Marketing Stategy. Look, it comes down to everything I said in these bearing post as far as the bearings configuration. Notice the low end Oust MOC5 is "Carbon Steel Cage" with standard non-contacting rubber seals. Their Rolls royce is the MOC9. Here is their desciption of the Seal "The Moc 9 Buna Non-Contact Seal is set into a U-channel design in the inner and outer races to keep all foreign particles out of the ball area. It also stops any oil leakage that might occur on a standard bearing seal." THIS IS THE LABYRINTH INNER RING and seal weve been discussing that the Bones-Swiss, Black Hole Bearings have. The MOC9 also comes with a non-metalic cage....thats what makes it quicker than the MOC5. No matter what brand you like, 1) get bearings with a non-metalic cage 2) Buy the bearings with the Labyring inner ring and seal design,no matter what they may call it. Your bearings will outlast a dozen sets of the old style shielded bearings.
. . . . . . .
The Swiss and German manufacturers make their 608 with a tighter raceway curvature as well (harder to mfr.) than the Chinese. This eliminates a lot of excess axial play(end play)in the bearing.
. . . . . . .
....As far as installing, VERY good question indeed. You can ruin a bearing installing it before it turns even once on your axel. The Rule is "Only apply preasure to the ring being mounted." To put the bearing in your wheel, some people put the bearing on the axel, unside down and press the wheel on the bearing. BAD ! The pressure against the balls can brinnell the raceway if hit with too much force. Since the Outer Ring is being mounted in the Wheel you need to apply preasure to the outer ring only! Not the inner ring. I use an Old bearing that I disassembled and have the outer ring only, put it against the outer ring of the bearing being mounted, and a small block of wood and rubber mallet. As far as removing them, another good reason not to re-use the bearings. The same rule applied to dis-assembly if the bearing is to be salvaged. However, there is no way of removing the bearing using the outer ring. Even the bearing pullers must remove the bearing by pulling on the inner ring. Brinelling will not happen everytime you mis-mount the bearings, but the degree of damage can be so slight, you may not notice. Yes, I use a bearing puller when removing bearings, however, bearing pullers were desighed for alot bigger, more durable bearings. Using a Bearing Puller on a Miniature can and will cause at least microscopic damage almost every time. Remember: Only apply pressure to the ring being mounted. Alot of people ruin their bearings before they even start!!!
"
Thanks for posting this, great info!
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I feel like printing that out and walking around town sticking it under people doors and windshield wipers.
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Bones 6. Yeah they’re pricey but they last way longer than Reds so the price evens out and you have good bearings the whole time instead of 8 pieces of trash every few months that don’t roll for shit.
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Heck yeah!!
These modus have been treating me so well it’s crazy how good they are!!
I haven’t done anything to them kept the shields on and they’re still rolling smoother and faster than reds, super reds, and my brand new Indy blacks
I’m scared to try any other bearings now too just because it’s such a secret where companies are making and manufacturing’s their bearings, most of them probably china so I don’t wanna risk it and have reds quality
Also I don’t have the balls to drop $60 for 1 set of bearings even if they last years
Does anyone know where Andale makes theirs? Or other brands such as autobanh, rush, and spitfire
They seem like they have different manufacturers for certain ones they make
Like cheap shots gotta be China but what about the classics and burners? And most rush bearings seem China but the last ones I had the 7’s seemed pretty good actually, and autobanh just sounds like their bearings wouldn’t be China but I’m no expert. And last Andale just has a lot of claims about their bearings so I’m intrigued
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I think ninjas are good too.....
Sometimes it crosses my mind all of this is bullshit meaning that what we do with bearings is so far and beyond what they are designed for that none of them are necessarily going to last longer than the next.....
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^I blew out several sets of Swiss regulars, which I painstakingly cleaned, used with spacers and maintained, and after that I was like fuck it I’m just gonna skate whatever. Currently using Indy blacks and Mini Logos and they do the same thing as Swiss, for me, at least.
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I think ninjas are good too.....
Sometimes it crosses my mind all of this is bullshit meaning that what we do with bearings is so far and beyond what they are designed for that none of them are necessarily going to last longer than the next.....
Pretty much this. I've been buying $15 bearings forever, and the one time I bought Bones Swiss to treat myself I couldn't really feel a significant difference and they lasted as long as most of my reds. The only bearings I thought were terrible were the Hard Luck $10 ones, I think they're Hard Times. Anyway, they're slow.
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^I blew out several sets of Swiss regulars, which I painstakingly cleaned, used with spacers and maintained, and after that I was like fuck it I’m just gonna skate whatever. Currently using Indy blacks and Mini Logos and they do the same thing as Swiss, for me, at least.
Indy blacks are really good - i had a set and they lasted me really long, double shielded too?
- said this 452353459234x on there but BONES FUCKING RULE - on a set of year old super 6 now that are really fast and haven't ever jammed up or broken- cleaned em once. before this i was using a set of swiss's that i had since 2014 just got em incase my setup gets left behind or something
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I felt the same way about bearings and just threw whatever people claimed were reliable or cheap but ever since I tried modus blacks cause their bearings fuck it and they’re only $10 and do the same as any bearing but man I was wrong
The modus rolled way smoother and faster than any bearing I’ve ever had, ever
And before them I had some Indy blacks and they’re fast but not smooth
The modus though, damn they really roll smooooooth and I’ve been riding the same set for a month now and I put my trucks on it they have not gotten slower or rougher and loud, still quiet fast and smooth
I highly suggest a set of modus if you want some smooth bearings that last, German made to I think
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Are Modus really made in Germany? Couldn't find any info about it online at least. You'd think they'd drum that up in their marketing if they were actually made in Germany.
I'm personally not all that fussy about bearings but I do like those ones with the built in spacers and speed rings. No need to fiddle with that shit when changing wheels. Seems like a no brainer to me. Bronsons are the worst though. Never get those.
Also funny how Arto Saari still seems to be on both Modus and Hard Luck. 😊
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Yes I am a dumbfuck but I actually was stupid enough to purchase cortina bearings. Packaging is great ill probably use the tin for something else. The shield poper and extra shields are stupid tried to lightly get one out but then did not bother to pop them because they will definitely bend like shields do and never go back in properly without rubbing. They are dry as fuck and sound that way from the get go, they sound loud like worn bearings yet they are sticky when rolling like andale. Basic china made 7 ball bearings. I went back to my 9 month old bones swiss. Even reds would be a better choice than these. They were 60 dollars canadian which is more than Bronson and super reds, for another 10-15 bucks I could've got new bones swiss. I hate myself and I hate cortina bearings. Not that anyone here needed to be told not to waste your money. I guess I basically paid for the tiny tool that ill use for repairing electronics or pulling ingrown nails, an extra set of axle nuts, a tin for joints and two stickers. They shouldve just made good bearings who needs three sets of bearing shields? Why am I such a sucker for new things?
This is the worst skate product I have purchased in the last 10 years, and I’ve purchased the new tensor Uber lights with slide plates, orbs cored wheels, Ricta chrome cores, titanium carbon rush bearings, even silver M class trucks. These things are the worst.
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Yes I am a dumbfuck but I actually was stupid enough to purchase cortina bearings. Packaging is great ill probably use the tin for something else. The shield poper and extra shields are stupid tried to lightly get one out but then did not bother to pop them because they will definitely bend like shields do and never go back in properly without rubbing. They are dry as fuck and sound that way from the get go, they sound loud like worn bearings yet they are sticky when rolling like andale. Basic china made 7 ball bearings. I went back to my 9 month old bones swiss. Even reds would be a better choice than these. They were 60 dollars canadian which is more than Bronson and super reds, for another 10-15 bucks I could've got new bones swiss. I hate myself and I hate cortina bearings. Not that anyone here needed to be told not to waste your money. I guess I basically paid for the tiny tool that ill use for repairing electronics or pulling ingrown nails, an extra set of axle nuts, a tin for joints and two stickers. They shouldve just made good bearings who needs three sets of bearing shields? Why am I such a sucker for new things?
This is the worst skate product I have purchased in the last 10 years, and I’ve purchased the new tensor Uber lights with slide plates, orbs cored wheels, Ricta chrome cores, titanium carbon rush bearings, even silver M class trucks. These things are the worst.
thanks for the heads up I was thinking about trying them when skatewarehouse had saint patricks day sale but now I’m so glad I didn’t get them, they looked so interesting with all the detail but what a waste
I also like how grant Taylor is on modus
He rips
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Bought my first set of Bonus swiss 6 last year. So fast, so good. I am 20 years in, so I am wondering how much energy I wasted for pushing when I could have popped more tricks. Never tried Modus but only heard good things as well.
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Went to ace hardware and built a bearing cleaner kit, bought the white lithium wd40, a cookie and some acetone all for less than 25 bucks. Just cleaned and lubed a set of old Swiss and it works like a charm.
Also is there really that big of a difference between the regular Swiss and the Swiss 6?
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Went to ace hardware and built a bearing cleaner kit, bought the white lithium wd40, a cookie and some acetone all for less than 25 bucks. Just cleaned and lubed a set of old Swiss and it works like a charm.
Also is there really that big of a difference between the regular Swiss and the Swiss 6?
Skated both, 6balls are bit faster but easier to break than og’s. Regulars ftw imo.
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heard modus company is from australia too, but no clue about the manufacturing
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So who sells "Germans" now? Last time I had German made bearings I think they were FKDs.
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So who sells "Germans" now? Last time I had German made bearings I think they were FKDs.
Vintage GMNs are available at Old School Skates. At $20 a set I'm not sure they are worth it. http://oldschoolskates.com/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=22
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I got modus titaniums on my rain setup, I like 'em.
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I felt the same way about bearings and just threw whatever people claimed were reliable or cheap but ever since I tried modus blacks cause their bearings fuck it and they’re only $10 and do the same as any bearing but man I was wrong
The modus rolled way smoother and faster than any bearing I’ve ever had, ever
And before them I had some Indy blacks and they’re fast but not smooth
The modus though, damn they really roll smooooooth and I’ve been riding the same set for a month now and I put my trucks on it they have not gotten slower or rougher and loud, still quiet fast and smooth
I highly suggest a set of modus if you want some smooth bearings that last, German made to I think
Modus is all I skate now. Currently skating 11 month old (no maintenance yet) Blues, 7's, Ceramics and Titaniums on different setups. Honestly, the $15 Blues are the ones that surprised me the most. I might just buy only those from now on. So much quieter, smoother and longer lasting than any other bearing I've ever used. Their spacers don't get mis-shapen either like the soft aluminum ones Bones makes, all the Modus models I bought have spacers included as well. It's nice getting to tighten axle nuts all the way and still have my wheels spin freely. The ceramics are just as good if not better than the Bones Ceramics at half the cost. Those are working really well in my cruiser. The one and only thing I wish Modus offered was replacement parts like Bones. I haven't needed any yet but I like to replace shields occasionally. I also wish I knew what sort of lubrication Modus uses as it takes a bit longer to break them in but it seems to last and keep them quieter for so much longer than anything else I've used. No ridiculous marketing claims, just really solid quality. If you subscribe to Abec rating they offer 3, 5 and 7 but honestly, the newer "Skate Rated" and less expensive Blues are a tad bit quieter and smoother than the 7's in my experience and seem to be the best and most affordable option. Sorry I wrote a novel about them, I've just never been this hyped about my bearings before.
I'm confused, Modus doesn't make "Blues", Andele does. They make blacks though?
Edit: Fuck, I googled and saw blues on skatewarehouse, but they don't have them on their website
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So if you're not supposed to use your truck to install new bearings is the only "correct" way to use a bearing press? About to set up a xmas complete with Bones Swiss and I'm scared I will damage them putting them on now!
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I felt the same way about bearings and just threw whatever people claimed were reliable or cheap but ever since I tried modus blacks cause their bearings fuck it and they’re only $10 and do the same as any bearing but man I was wrong
The modus rolled way smoother and faster than any bearing I’ve ever had, ever
And before them I had some Indy blacks and they’re fast but not smooth
The modus though, damn they really roll smooooooth and I’ve been riding the same set for a month now and I put my trucks on it they have not gotten slower or rougher and loud, still quiet fast and smooth
I highly suggest a set of modus if you want some smooth bearings that last, German made to I think
Modus is all I skate now. Currently skating 11 month old (no maintenance yet) Blues, 7's, Ceramics and Titaniums on different setups. Honestly, the $15 Blues are the ones that surprised me the most. I might just buy only those from now on. So much quieter, smoother and longer lasting than any other bearing I've ever used. Their spacers don't get mis-shapen either like the soft aluminum ones Bones makes, all the Modus models I bought have spacers included as well. It's nice getting to tighten axle nuts all the way and still have my wheels spin freely. The ceramics are just as good if not better than the Bones Ceramics at half the cost. Those are working really well in my cruiser. The one and only thing I wish Modus offered was replacement parts like Bones. I haven't needed any yet but I like to replace shields occasionally. I also wish I knew what sort of lubrication Modus uses as it takes a bit longer to break them in but it seems to last and keep them quieter for so much longer than anything else I've used. No ridiculous marketing claims, just really solid quality. If you subscribe to Abec rating they offer 3, 5 and 7 but honestly, the newer "Skate Rated" and less expensive Blues are a tad bit quieter and smoother than the 7's in my experience and seem to be the best and most affordable option. Sorry I wrote a novel about them, I've just never been this hyped about my bearings before.
https://www.tactics.com/modus-bearings/blue-skateboard-bearings/blue
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So if you're not supposed to use your truck to install new bearings is the only "correct" way to use a bearing press? About to set up a xmas complete with Bones Swiss and I'm scared I will damage them putting them on now!
I use my trucks/reflex tool, I don't think it's a problem considering how much pressure the act of skateboarding puts on them.
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So if you're not supposed to use your truck to install new bearings is the only "correct" way to use a bearing press? About to set up a xmas complete with Bones Swiss and I'm scared I will damage them putting them on now!
Exactly!
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Had some Bronson RAW during the summer, felt ok and did not break. Put in some 2 year old shield- and greasless Bones Swiss recently and it felt faster and better compared to the Bronson.
I doubt the Modus are Made in Germany as I did some research on SKF (European) and they produce their skate bearings in Italy.
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Dang now I regret not getting a set of blues or titanium’s during the sale
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I’ve always passed Modus as just another average Chinese made bearing company and stuck with my trusted Swiss 6’s but after reading some of your reviews looks like I won’t regret trying them out.
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I’ve always passed Modus as just another average Chinese made bearing company and stuck with my trusted Swiss 6’s but after reading some of your reviews looks like I won’t regret trying them out.
They're good, not the fastest but they feel nice.
If you do feel like going out on a limb and trying something new I suggest Olympia. It may seem biased as they messaged me on another thread but they're just as fast and feel really smooth.
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I've been skating bearing made by the dude who originally put up that information, Rock'n Ron. Good luck finding them though.
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I got modus titaniums on my rain setup, I like 'em.
Are they really titanium so they don't rust? It says "titanium alloy balls and rings" on their site but that doesn't really say anything. Could also be bullshit like often happens with skate stuff. Are they magnetic?
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Kind of keen to try some modus' now. Board fell in the water yesterday so doubt these Bronson raws are gonna last much more. What are the differences between all the different modus bearings and which ones should I go for? I'm willing to shell out a bit more if the more expensive ones are better. Would have tried swiss 6 but theyre over 60 now which is a bit too much.
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I asked Modus some details about the Titanium bearings and they got back to me with a vague reply and told me that they still rust. Either they don't know how titanium works or their titanium bearings are not titanium or they don't actually know what their bearings are made out of. I was hoping they'd be a good option for my rain set up but now I'm not so sure. I asked them for more details on them but they haven't gotten back to me yet at least. :o
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Kind of keen to try some modus' now. Board fell in the water yesterday so doubt these Bronson raws are gonna last much more. What are the differences between all the different modus bearings and which ones should I go for? I'm willing to shell out a bit more if the more expensive ones are better. Would have tried swiss 6 but theyre over 60 now which is a bit too much.
I love the blacks so much I have 4 sets, but the other slapper says the blues are really good so I would try those unless you really want some weight shaved I say go for the $30 titanium’s
Idk about anyone else but my years of skating experience these modus are definitely worth your money
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I've got a set of Modus titanium's that came as an unlisted bonus on a complete setup I bought online for the trucks/wheels. They've been golden and will be my go to from now on, $25aud less than bones too.
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RE: Titanium Bearings
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxHLrUHkiVg
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I'm a fan of Bones Swiss 6, nothing feels as fast (especially when they are dry and screaming).
I also run a set of Seismic Tekton 6-Ball Performance Bearings (https://www.daddiesboardshop.com/seismic-tekton-6-ball-performance-bearings?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtOLVBRCZARIsADPLtJ15j5b4Np2lKBIFFzirnMbs_jRsCNShOaB6IuNQXqN8POMF-4k0VxkaAjKtEALw_wcB) and they have never felt as fast as the Swiss Six and the shields were always an issue (bending or popping off).
Hardluck, I'd be down to try if I got them free but given that dude's history and the kookfucking hat scheme he does, I pass ;)
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I've been skating bearing made by the dude who originally put up that information, Rock'n Ron. Good luck finding them though.
I got a set of those - they are way slower than my Swiss purchased at the same time -which was around 5 years back.