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Skateboarding => Shoes & Gear => Topic started by: DaSk8D00D on August 14, 2017, 12:21:48 PM
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Just wanted to get a thread started where can talk about the intricacies of maintaining your gear and share whatever tips, tricks, or products have helped keep your shit together for an enjoyable ride. I nerd out about my setup & its components all the time so I figured I'd share some of what Ive been using lately
Chipped Decks
(http://d2ydh70d4b5xgv.cloudfront.net/images/2/a/jb-weld-kwik-wood-epoxy-putty-8ff23481a85f8b6db198fb7264aac50e.jpg)
I've been using this lately to get a little extra life out of my chipped boards and to prevent small cracks into becoming large chips on the nose & tail. It's effective, very easy to use, and isn't nearly as messy or tedious as using wood glue or anything like that. Can be found at most stores that have a hardware section for like $7-8 bucks and one small tube will last you a while.
Dirty Griptape
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41orm6zSr5L.jpg)
I love me some GripGum! It's dusty as fuck out here in arizona and my grip is always messy. Add in some puddle trouble and you can have a new deck with some grimy ass griptape all too easily. Gripgum and other similar products do a pretty keep job of keeping your grip as clean as possible and removing that "dusty" layer that kind of coats the surface after a while, if you use it right after you get dirt on it you can save your grip from getting stained or ruined from mud & dirt. One stick lasts quite a while too, so its a good investment
Kingpin & Axel Rethreading
(http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE3-983268dt.jpg)
Most people just use the ones found on certain skate tools or goto the skateshop for this but if you dont wanna drop $18 on a skatetool or drive out to a shop that might not have one, you can pickup some cheap dies from your local hardware store (Ace has the best selection for individual dies) for around 5-6 bucks and you'll never have to worry about ruined threads again. The measurements/size for axels are 5/16" or 8mm, 24tpi (threads per inch) and kingpins are 3/8" 24tpi. You can get both for like $12 whereas most skate tools only have a die for the axels and cost around $15 or more.
Shoe Tongue Flapping or Tucking into the Sides
(http://shopmagicalribbons.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/31eITCfNKqL._SY300_.jpg)
Wrap your shoe insole & tongue with an elastic hairtie to keep your tongue in place if the shoe doesn't have tongue straps to keep it center. The Hairtie blends in seamlessly with shoelaces and stretches out enough to be comfortable. You might have to pull the strap up along your foot occasionally after putting them on but its better than dealing with the tongue flopping everywhere every 5 minutes during your session.
Coloring Shoes
(https://www.deserres.ca/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/T/U/TULIPCOLORSHOT_1_TULIPCOLORSHOT_39.jpg)(https://plaidonline.com/plaid/img/blog/2014/07/PD_71436_2.jpg)
I've used these to black out some suede and leather panels on some old shoes and they work pretty well. You can pick them up at Michael's or Wal-mart. I used the fabric spray for the suede/mesh areas and used a foam brush to apply the leather paint. You've gotta be ready to spend a good 45 minutes meticulously covering the rest of the shoe with masking tape but from there the rest of the process is pretty easy. I'm not too sure how all the other colors work but if you wanna black out some shit, these should get the job done.
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A real basic one is using plain (uncoloured) paraffin wax to quiet down squeaky trucks. Use a sharp blade to shave some thin slices into your pivot cups, rub some onto the pivot nub, and the bushing seats, and flat parts of bushings.
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I dig the grip gum thing. Vision sold a grip brick back in the late 80's which was just that. Awesome stuff. It's actually just a belt cleaner. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0 (https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0)
The only maintenance I do with my set up is bearing cleaning. Only buy bearings with removable nylon retainers.
This contraption looks pretty sick but I've never seen one in person.
(http://bonesbearings.com/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/302x302/method/padding/v/9126/ATABCU.jpg)
I try to emulate that bones cleaner by popping off the retainers and put bearings on a long screw, then swirl around in a jar of paint thinner. Then dry and lube up with bones speed cream.
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I just bought one of those bones bearing cleaners from the skatewarehouse sale
probably won't use it until it rains on a saturday and im super bored.
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If I can get some for cheap I'll definitely try out that Kwikwood. A couple things I do:
1) Swap out pivot cups every few months - I'll often wear them out to the point where it's just metal on metal so I try to put fresh ones in before that happens
2) Rotate Trucks/wheels every couple months - I find this helps with wearing stuff out evenly(assuming you skate your front and back truck with even tightness).
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I usually buy product often but always replace axle nuts after they get bashed in from landing power slides into a wall/ledge.
Pivot cups when one rips
I also clean my bearings with the bones cleaning kit - ive rocked bones swiss and the six balls so its smart to maintain bearings that you've paid $40 for
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I dig the grip gum thing. Vision sold a grip brick back in the late 80's which was just that. Awesome stuff. It's actually just a belt cleaner. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0 (https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0)
The only maintenance I do with my set up is bearing cleaning. Only buy bearings with removable nylon retainers.
This contraption looks pretty sick but I've never seen one in person.
(http://bonesbearings.com/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/302x302/method/padding/v/9126/ATABCU.jpg)
I try to emulate that bones cleaner by popping off the retainers and put bearings on a long screw, then swirl around in a jar of paint thinner. Then dry and lube up with bones speed cream.
I mentioned this in another thread, but this kit + acetone + speed cream brought my Swiss 6's back to life after skating during the spring thaw here in MI. If you want to make your Swiss last for years (I'm going on 3), it's definitely worth it. There are definitely DIY alternatives but I'm not really savvy in that regard.
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I dig the grip gum thing. Vision sold a grip brick back in the late 80's which was just that. Awesome stuff. It's actually just a belt cleaner. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0 (https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0)
The only maintenance I do with my set up is bearing cleaning. Only buy bearings with removable nylon retainers.
This contraption looks pretty sick but I've never seen one in person.
(http://bonesbearings.com/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/302x302/method/padding/v/9126/ATABCU.jpg)
I try to emulate that bones cleaner by popping off the retainers and put bearings on a long screw, then swirl around in a jar of paint thinner. Then dry and lube up with bones speed cream.
I mentioned this in another thread, but this kit + acetone + speed cream brought my Swiss 6's back to life after skating during the spring thaw here in MI. If you want to make your Swiss last for years (I'm going on 3), it's definitely worth it. There are definitely DIY alternatives but I'm not really savvy in that regard.
My friend used to swear by soaking his bearings in gasoline then lighting them on fire. Very stupid,and didnt work for any positive purpose. Wd40 or spray lube has always made my bearings last,I ran a set of ceramics for 10 years before they blew out and died on the same program.
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I need that kingpin rethreader
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I dig the grip gum thing. Vision sold a grip brick back in the late 80's which was just that. Awesome stuff. It's actually just a belt cleaner. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0 (https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0)
The only maintenance I do with my set up is bearing cleaning. Only buy bearings with removable nylon retainers.
This contraption looks pretty sick but I've never seen one in person.
(http://bonesbearings.com/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/302x302/method/padding/v/9126/ATABCU.jpg)
I try to emulate that bones cleaner by popping off the retainers and put bearings on a long screw, then swirl around in a jar of paint thinner. Then dry and lube up with bones speed cream.
I mentioned this in another thread, but this kit + acetone + speed cream brought my Swiss 6's back to life after skating during the spring thaw here in MI. If you want to make your Swiss last for years (I'm going on 3), it's definitely worth it. There are definitely DIY alternatives but I'm not really savvy in that regard.
You really ran wd40 in your bearings?
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Serotonin Reuptake Inhibitor benefits about 7 out of 10 OCD sufferers. Allegedly...
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I dig the grip gum thing. Vision sold a grip brick back in the late 80's which was just that. Awesome stuff. It's actually just a belt cleaner. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0 (https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0)
The only maintenance I do with my set up is bearing cleaning. Only buy bearings with removable nylon retainers.
This contraption looks pretty sick but I've never seen one in person.
(http://bonesbearings.com/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/302x302/method/padding/v/9126/ATABCU.jpg)
I try to emulate that bones cleaner by popping off the retainers and put bearings on a long screw, then swirl around in a jar of paint thinner. Then dry and lube up with bones speed cream.
I mentioned this in another thread, but this kit + acetone + speed cream brought my Swiss 6's back to life after skating during the spring thaw here in MI. If you want to make your Swiss last for years (I'm going on 3), it's definitely worth it. There are definitely DIY alternatives but I'm not really savvy in that regard.
Fuck yea, horrible
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I put this between plys when my boards chip and clamp it together, sand excess glue when dried.
(http://www.gorillatough.com/sites/default/files/Gorilla-Wood-Glue-4oz.png)
Not too expensive either about 3 or 4 bucks at walmart or target
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I bought a cheap die to rethread some bashed in axles and kept some trucks alive for another 5 months
had to order it online though, I was surprised you can't walk into home depot and buy a single die
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rotating wheels and trucks definitely helps the life span of your setup
and i use 1$ superglue to prevent chipped board, that's a good tip
bearings cleaning every few months with acetone and speed cream, no wd40, it makes them sticky
great thread
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always wondered about that grip gum stuff. But once I get a gnarly chip in my board I just don't care anymore.
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used to put all my bearings in a bottle to clean them, but now i just spray them with isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and spin them a few times and blow the alcohol out. then add one or two drops of speed cream. this way i can clean them individually as needed and not be committed to a big bearing cleaning project. i alternate between two sets of swiss6 that are 5-6 yrs old.
for grimy grip i spray with windex scrub with toothbrush and blot (not rub) w paper towels layed flat. wallah like new.
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when changing decks or wheels I sometimes wipe down my trucks. some nasty shit sprays up onto them. also clean and oil the truck axles. WD-40 is actually pretty good for that purpose. check the hardware once in a while to make sure it's not getting loose. and the wheels for bearings that have seized up. lately I've been thinking it's probably good to change out the speed rings once in a while instead of using the same ones forever.
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If you guys don't wanna order gripgum or if it absolutely erks you when you have dirty griptape (like me) and want it gone asap
You can buy steel hair brushes:
($3 for like a pack of 5 at Lowe's or Home Depot)
1. Dip some of the hairs into water
2. Rub onto board until the dirt is gone or spread out
3. Use a towel you don't use anymore and dab (don't rub) the spot you're trying to get out.
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If you guys don't wanna order gripgum or if it absolutely erks you when you have dirty griptape (like me) and want it gone asap
You can buy steel hair brushes:
($3 for like a pack of 5 at Lowe's or Home Depot)
1. Dip some of the hairs into water
2. Rub onto board until the dirt is gone or spread out
3. Use a towel you don't use anymore and dab (don't rub) the spot you're trying to get out.
I heard you should use copper hair brushes, since steel can dull and scrape away your grip!
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I dig the grip gum thing. Vision sold a grip brick back in the late 80's which was just that. Awesome stuff. It's actually just a belt cleaner. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0 (https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0)
The only maintenance I do with my set up is bearing cleaning. Only buy bearings with removable nylon retainers.
This contraption looks pretty sick but I've never seen one in person.
(http://bonesbearings.com/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/302x302/method/padding/v/9126/ATABCU.jpg)
I try to emulate that bones cleaner by popping off the retainers and put bearings on a long screw, then swirl around in a jar of paint thinner. Then dry and lube up with bones speed cream.
I mentioned this in another thread, but this kit + acetone + speed cream brought my Swiss 6's back to life after skating during the spring thaw here in MI. If you want to make your Swiss last for years (I'm going on 3), it's definitely worth it. There are definitely DIY alternatives but I'm not really savvy in that regard.
Joke? I do not think there is something worse for your bearings outside of soaking them in salt water.
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great thread! I always use Allstargum for shoes that ripped or where the sole is not grippy any more. Just add 3-5 layers onto the whole ollie area and let it dry for 12 hours. Brings new life into worn down shoes. Have to repeat for every session though.
(http://www.allstargum.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/ice-2-620x242.jpg)
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I dig the grip gum thing. Vision sold a grip brick back in the late 80's which was just that. Awesome stuff. It's actually just a belt cleaner. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0 (https://www.amazon.com/Prostik-W1304-Abrasive-Cleaner-4-inch/dp/B0000DD2E0)
The only maintenance I do with my set up is bearing cleaning. Only buy bearings with removable nylon retainers.
This contraption looks pretty sick but I've never seen one in person.
(http://bonesbearings.com/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/302x302/method/padding/v/9126/ATABCU.jpg)
I try to emulate that bones cleaner by popping off the retainers and put bearings on a long screw, then swirl around in a jar of paint thinner. Then dry and lube up with bones speed cream.
I mentioned this in another thread, but this kit + acetone + speed cream brought my Swiss 6's back to life after skating during the spring thaw here in MI. If you want to make your Swiss last for years (I'm going on 3), it's definitely worth it. There are definitely DIY alternatives but I'm not really savvy in that regard.
No joke,been rolling on the same bones swiss for a few years now,I've maybe used speed cream or some type of lube once,but other than that wd40 once every 6 months has worked. I know its bad,but I won't care until they blow out and I have to buy new ones
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I have that Bones kit and it's awesome. Last time I used it I just used rubbing alcohol and it worked well. Just gotta remember to actually air out the bearings before putting them back in.
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I try and do a full wipe and bearing clean every three decks or so..i have grip cleaner too but my grip is still pretty heinous....it works ok on shoes too. I rotate wheels and I may start removing the graphics on wheels too....
Crazy glue seams on shoes and laces....
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Can't do bearing maintenance without this:
https://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900-Rocket-Blaster-Large/dp/B00017LSPI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502857740&sr=8-3&keywords=camera+lens+blower (https://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900-Rocket-Blaster-Large/dp/B00017LSPI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502857740&sr=8-3&keywords=camera+lens+blower)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71FFFPPxzgL._SL1500_.jpg)
If you don't have one to flush out the alcohol then you're blowing it. Also, use eye protection if you're using solvents.
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I may start removing the graphics on wheels too....
Sanding it can leave a colour smudge if they've got a bright graphic, i typically just use the razor blade i grip with and pick away
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Man you guys really hate wheel graphics. I rock em facing out when they're fresh and then flip em in once they start to cone. Then I just flip them in/out/around as needed until they're too small.
Still can't figure out why my front two wheels cone so quickly. Must be wheelbite? Improper/excessive sliding?
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Super glue gel is a great sub if no shoe goo is around.
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the front wheels wear so much from turning/pivoting all the time around from fakie/switch, rotating helps them wear evenly
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Still can't figure out why my front two wheels cone so quickly. Must be wheelbite? Improper/excessive sliding?
[/quote]
Excessive tick-tacking.
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As a youngin, I lived right across the street from this killer ditch. It was in the midwest; so every spring it was really dirty. I can remember taking the garden hose to my board to clean it. In the 30 years since; my set up maintenance habits haven't improved much. Focus it and get another, basically. I ride my boards until they're pretty crusty. I'm fine with some chips. I don't think I've ever really cleaned a set of bearings. But I've also never had a pair of swiss. Reading this thread is the first I've heard that WD40 is bad?
The one thing I do though is not leave my board in the trunk of my car. It comes in the house with me.
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I turn them in too but yah, I rotate them so my next set up I'm removing them all together.....
i think my front toe wheel gets he most wear and wheel bite.....
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I take it into the shop every 500 miles.
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ive some other brand, I hate dusty grip and they last forever, got a belt sander version from home depot years ago
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41CkqLcnGOL.jpg)
Came bundled on amazon, picked it up after building a DIY version that didn't workout - The bearing tool...used it once or twice, more trouble than it's worth (doesn't work if you use spacers; has helped me once or twice get a bearing out of some hard ass rictas)
(http://bonesbearings.com/skin/frontend/soc/bonesbearings/images/bones-bearings-cleaning-unit-lg.jpg)
(http://bonesbearings.com/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/524x524/method/padding/v/332b/ATABPP.jpg)
(http://69fxck-ql54yofxs1eb.webscalenetworks.net/UhGzi8M8b/assets/bonesbearings/productimage/size/524x524/method/padding/v/332b/xBALSOSPD.jpg.pagespeed.ic.6VTALS7p_0.webp)
Ran out of speed cream and using this right now, works just fine (and was on sale)
(https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/BR_ceramicoil_outofbox_448x448.jpg)
Used this forever until the mounting socket popped out/broke, now I keep it around for the re-threader
(http://img.skatewarehouse.com/watermark/rs.php?path=RXUTOTO-1.jpg)
Best tool, hands down for home/car
(http://www.silvertrucks.com/images_tools/silver_tool_black.jpg)
Clip this on when I go anywhere
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61231gMo8VL._SL1001_.jpg)
And of course;
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/819YMDTDOXL._UY395_.jpg)
Back in the day I'd use wood filler/glue and clamps to fix delams/chips/razor tail, now, meh.
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I turn them in too but yah, I rotate them so my next set up I'm removing them all together.....
i think my front toe wheel gets he most wear and wheel bite.....
wouldn't you be able to remove wheel graphics with acetone?
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just grind them down for sake !
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I turn them in too but yah, I rotate them so my next set up I'm removing them all together.....
i think my front toe wheel gets he most wear and wheel bite.....
wouldn't you be able to remove wheel graphics with acetone?
Save $15 and buy blank wheels
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the silver tool is really good but gets crapped out after the filing thing on top wares down.
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When I started I would use Pledge to clean my deck, trucks and wheels. It definitely helped with slides from the wax.
I tried cleaning bearings once and it didn't work out. Since then I kinda just get a new pair but, after buying Swiss I'm considering that Bones cleaner.
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When I started I would use Pledge to clean my deck, trucks and wheels. It definitely helped with slides from the wax.
I tried cleaning bearings once and it didn't work out. Since then I kinda just get a new pair but, after buying Swiss I'm considering that Bones cleaner.
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/DpWjCmQOWag/maxresdefault.jpg)
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I turn them in too but yah, I rotate them so my next set up I'm removing them all together.....
i think my front toe wheel gets he most wear and wheel bite.....
wouldn't you be able to remove wheel graphics with acetone?
Or by skating them...
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When I started I would use Pledge to clean my deck, trucks and wheels. It definitely helped with slides from the wax.
I tried cleaning bearings once and it didn't work out. Since then I kinda just get a new pair but, after buying Swiss I'm considering that Bones cleaner.
It's a small investment to preserve a larger investment
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if you don't like wheel graphics just use a spare piece of griptape and sand it off, it also works for trucks that have shit printed on them
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I turn them in too but yah, I rotate them so my next set up I'm removing them all together.....
i think my front toe wheel gets he most wear and wheel bite.....
wouldn't you be able to remove wheel graphics with acetone?
They just look thrashed....part of it is bones wheels graphics are bad.....
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I just fashioned some bearing cleaner conoction out of a Gatorade bottle, a piece of iron whose English name I can't recall, and some metal nuts. It works the exact same way.
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I wouldn't think of this as maintenance but do any of you guys try to purposefully flatten a board before set up? I saw a Instagram post of a dude backing his car over a new board, it can't possibly work right?
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I wouldn't think of this as maintenance but do any of you guys try to purposefully flatten a board before set up? I saw a Instagram post of a dude backing his car over a new board, it can't possibly work right?
I can't imagine flattening your board after it's cured would do anything other than weaken it and create stress cracks
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I wouldn't think of this as maintenance but do any of you guys try to purposefully flatten a board before set up? I saw a Instagram post of a dude backing his car over a new board, it can't possibly work right?
I can't imagine flattening your board after it's cured would do anything other than weaken it and create stress cracks
Yea that wouldn't do shit but pressure crack it,leave your board in the trunk of your car if you want it flat and useless. Heat works the wood molecules ,thats why boards that chill in front of windows at shops are a no go,they're typically warped and weak.
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I wouldn't think of this as maintenance but do any of you guys try to purposefully flatten a board before set up? I saw a Instagram post of a dude backing his car over a new board, it can't possibly work right?
I can't imagine flattening your board after it's cured would do anything other than weaken it and create stress cracks
That was my first thought, can't knock people for board related quirks though
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I wouldn't think of this as maintenance but do any of you guys try to purposefully flatten a board before set up? I saw a Instagram post of a dude backing his car over a new board, it can't possibly work right?
I can't imagine flattening your board after it's cured would do anything other than weaken it and create stress cracks
Yea that wouldn't do shit but pressure crack it,leave your board in the trunk of your car if you want it flat and useless. Heat works the wood molecules ,thats why boards that chill in front of windows at shops are a no go,they're typically warped and weak.
watch around 5:10. Rodney leakin' daewons secrets and shit.
How DWINDLE Skateboards are Made (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPG899OnyGg#)
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I wouldn't think of this as maintenance but do any of you guys try to purposefully flatten a board before set up? I saw a Instagram post of a dude backing his car over a new board, it can't possibly work right?
I can't imagine flattening your board after it's cured would do anything other than weaken it and create stress cracks
Yea that wouldn't do shit but pressure crack it,leave your board in the trunk of your car if you want it flat and useless. Heat works the wood molecules ,thats why boards that chill in front of windows at shops are a no go,they're typically warped and weak.
How DWINDLE Skateboards are Made (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPG899OnyGg#)
Oh shit haha! Daewom Schmitt
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I wouldn't think of this as maintenance but do any of you guys try to purposefully flatten a board before set up? I saw a Instagram post of a dude backing his car over a new board, it can't possibly work right?
I can't imagine flattening your board after it's cured would do anything other than weaken it and create stress cracks
Yea that wouldn't do shit but pressure crack it,leave your board in the trunk of your car if you want it flat and useless. Heat works the wood molecules ,thats why boards that chill in front of windows at shops are a no go,they're typically warped and weak.
How DWINDLE Skateboards are Made (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPG899OnyGg#)
Goddamit! We already had Darwin.
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I wouldn't think of this as maintenance but do any of you guys try to purposefully flatten a board before set up? I saw a Instagram post of a dude backing his car over a new board, it can't possibly work right?
I can't imagine flattening your board after it's cured would do anything other than weaken it and create stress cracks
Yea that wouldn't do shit but pressure crack it,leave your board in the trunk of your car if you want it flat and useless. Heat works the wood molecules ,thats why boards that chill in front of windows at shops are a no go,they're typically warped and weak.
How DWINDLE Skateboards are Made (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPG899OnyGg#)
I just blew my own mind,damn my thumbs!haha
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Will the grip gum(or the Home Depot version) take bubble gum off of griptape?
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Will the grip gum(or the Home Depot version) take bubble gum off of griptape?
Nah you're gonna need a wire brush for that.
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Will the grip gum(or the Home Depot version) take bubble gum off of griptape?
if it's gum or poo, youre better off just re-gripping it
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Nah it's not that bad, I got most of it off. I am against re gripping boards tho. No reason in particular, i guess My grip would have to be really fucked up for me to justify re gripping.
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For anyone looking for ways to recolor your suedes or leather skate shoes, I did so for the first time last night with some pretty good results using Leather Studio leather paint & Tulip Color Shot Instant Fabric Paint. You have to be diligent with your masking of the rest of the shoe (which will be tedious if you want a clean job), but the paints themselves are fairly easy to use and do a good job of seeping into the materials. For the toecap, I stuffed the hell out of the shoe so all the creases were pressed out as much as they could be.
(https://i.imgur.com/K56R96j.jpg?1)
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Any tips for reviving an old chipped board?
And also, is there anyway to dye the soles of your shoes black?
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Surfboard putty can work well. Pull all the chipped wood out, clean out any other debris. Wet your fingers, mix the putty in your fingers, once its one uniform color and warmish,jam it into the crack, and let it dry. It dries pretty hard. Then sand it down so its nice and flush with your board.
https://sunplay.com/products/fcs-instant-repair-putty-78001?variant=6882534817827&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImLXPjOiK2gIVCDBpCh1FnAUQEAQYAiABEgIu1fD_BwE (https://sunplay.com/products/fcs-instant-repair-putty-78001?variant=6882534817827&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImLXPjOiK2gIVCDBpCh1FnAUQEAQYAiABEgIu1fD_BwE)
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Surfboard putty can work well. Pull all the chipped wood out, clean out any other debris. Wet your fingers, mix the putty in your fingers, once its one uniform color and warmish,jam it into the crack, and let it dry. It dries pretty hard. Then sand it down so its nice and flush with your board.
https://sunplay.com/products/fcs-instant-repair-putty-78001?variant=6882534817827&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImLXPjOiK2gIVCDBpCh1FnAUQEAQYAiABEgIu1fD_BwE (https://sunplay.com/products/fcs-instant-repair-putty-78001?variant=6882534817827&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImLXPjOiK2gIVCDBpCh1FnAUQEAQYAiABEgIu1fD_BwE)
Thanks, Ill check it out!
Have been doing some research about how to make your shoe soles black, wondering if anyone has any experience with painting or dying their soles and how it worked after a few sessions?
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Have been doing some research about how to make your shoe soles black, wondering if anyone has any experience with painting or dying their soles and how it worked after a few sessions?
I work in fashion and we dye a lot of stuff. We've recently been dying the soles of our sneakers in a wool (protein) dye before we give them to the shoemaker for construction. We've done blue and black and we're just using commercially available dyes, something like rit equivalent probably.
The dye doesn't really penetrate the rubber very deep, so after wearing the shoes, the original color of the soles starts to show, in our case, white.
You could also try edge dressing and kinda paint the soles, but I think it will be messy and it'll look fucked up in the end.
If you do any experiments I'd be interested to hear the results.
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(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41orm6zSr5L.jpg)
i know a cheaper alternative to this: get a tube of silicon, let it dry, then cut it open and use the dried silicon the same way you would use a gripgum, it works great
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Expand Quote
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41orm6zSr5L.jpg)
i know a cheaper alternative to this: get a tube of silicon, let it dry, then cut it open and use the dried silicon the same way you would use a gripgum, it works great
I thought the cheaper alternative was to get a huge "belt sander cleaner" at a hardware store, which is what grip gum is, only you get way more for way less money.
The silicone doesn't shred up into little pieces?
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Expand Quote
Have been doing some research about how to make your shoe soles black, wondering if anyone has any experience with painting or dying their soles and how it worked after a few sessions?
I work in fashion and we dye a lot of stuff. We've recently been dying the soles of our sneakers in a wool (protein) dye before we give them to the shoemaker for construction. We've done blue and black and we're just using commercially available dyes, something like rit equivalent probably.
The dye doesn't really penetrate the rubber very deep, so after wearing the shoes, the original color of the soles starts to show, in our case, white.
You could also try edge dressing and kinda paint the soles, but I think it will be messy and it'll look fucked up in the end.
If you do any experiments I'd be interested to hear the results.
Thanks man. Yeah everything ive read on dyes and paints say it will eventually wear off on the rubber sole. This is a bummer! I was certain there had to be a sure proof way to turn your shoe soles black.