Author Topic: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?  (Read 4121 times)

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rosemaryBB

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Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« on: January 16, 2020, 06:07:48 PM »
So I recently switched to Thunders and lost a bunch of tricks which got me thinking it's probably because of I skate better on super short wheelbases. Seeing as how I'm an idiot and have tried many dumb "hacks" with my setup I was wondering if anyone has ever drilled new holes in their deck to shorten or extend the wheelbase, and if so what size bit would I need to do that?

satan

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2020, 06:15:32 PM »
Hardware is #10 bolt size. Ideally you wanna look but the drill bit size for a #10 bolt. Iirc, that's a #7 drill bit. I haven't looked at drill bits in a while but the # stuff seems tougher to find vs fractional sizes.

The hole in the deck is ~0.190" so a 3/16" bit will work but it's a tiny, tiny bit smaller.
5mm = 0.197" so you could use a 5mm bit but it'd be a lil big.

lysdexia

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2020, 06:19:36 PM »
the holes in trucks are just over 5mm, 13/64" would be about spot on as far as OEM size goes

satan

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2020, 06:26:11 PM »
the holes in trucks are just over 5mm, 13/64" would be about spot on as far as OEM size goes
I think 13/64" is about the size of the holes in the base plates. The holes in a deck are a lil smaller.
I've been measuring this stuff lately cuz I'm also thinking about redrilling.

50mm

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2020, 07:24:47 PM »
Just ditch the thunders. I tried to do that shit too because I like how they look but going back to Indy felt so good.

Super short wheelbases on thunders in my opinion sucks ass. I liked short wheelbases on indys, but I could literally not ollie when I put the same board on the thunders. I got smaller wheels and a much longer wheelbase and steeper concave and it helped, but I still didn't like the thunders. I love the feeling of being lower to the ground but wheelbite and how they turn, I just gave up. I just threw it on an extra setup that my girlfriend fucks around with on weekends.

Yesterdays-pop

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2020, 07:28:42 PM »
So I recently switched to Thunders and lost a bunch of tricks which got me thinking it's probably because of I skate better on super short wheelbases. Seeing as how I'm an idiot and have tried many dumb "hacks" with my setup I was wondering if anyone has ever drilled new holes in their deck to shorten or extend the wheelbase, and if so what size bit would I need to do that?

I wouldn’t do it, you’ll have more fun just skating then deck and focus it after the next session

satan

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2020, 07:33:31 PM »
Just ditch the thunders. I tried to do that shit too because I like how they look but going back to Indy felt so good.

Super short wheelbases on thunders in my opinion sucks ass. I liked short wheelbases on indys, but I could literally not ollie when I put the same board on the thunders. I got smaller wheels and a much longer wheelbase and steeper concave and it helped, but I still didn't like the thunders. I love the feeling of being lower to the ground but wheelbite and how they turn, I just gave up. I just threw it on an extra setup that my girlfriend fucks around with on weekends.
Yep. This is sage advice. Seriously.
There's more to truck geometry than just wheelbase. Last 2 times I tried to get ppl to talk about truck geo I got crickets.
If you're just talking about how the pop is different then the easiest thing would be to look for a deck with a different tail. I guessing you'd want a longer and/or flatter tail, that'd make the angle less steep when you hit your tail.

Chavo

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2020, 08:27:30 PM »
3/16" is standard. 7/32" is the old standard. If you use 3/16" make sure you use a drill press. I clamped a baseplate on as a jig, using a hand drill, and it still didn't line up correctly.

50mm

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2020, 09:21:07 PM »
Expand Quote
Just ditch the thunders. I tried to do that shit too because I like how they look but going back to Indy felt so good.

Super short wheelbases on thunders in my opinion sucks ass. I liked short wheelbases on indys, but I could literally not ollie when I put the same board on the thunders. I got smaller wheels and a much longer wheelbase and steeper concave and it helped, but I still didn't like the thunders. I love the feeling of being lower to the ground but wheelbite and how they turn, I just gave up. I just threw it on an extra setup that my girlfriend fucks around with on weekends.
[close]
Yep. This is sage advice. Seriously.
There's more to truck geometry than just wheelbase. Last 2 times I tried to get ppl to talk about truck geo I got crickets.
If you're just talking about how the pop is different then the easiest thing would be to look for a deck with a different tail. I guessing you'd want a longer and/or flatter tail, that'd make the angle less steep when you hit your tail.
That's actually what I tried doing after my favorite board shape didn't work. I've never like a long nose or tail but that's what I picked out to try and get them to work. It made the trucks work a lot better but in the end I just hated the way they actually turned. Funny thing is I kind of liked the shape and for the meantime will stick with it on the indys.

This whole thread can be summed up with the man himself, Ben Degros.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgqZtaiI_X4
« Last Edit: January 16, 2020, 09:22:48 PM by 50mm »

Yesterdays-pop

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2020, 11:07:40 PM »
STOP SUCKING BEN DEGROS DICK.

Uncle Flea

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #10 on: January 17, 2020, 08:31:45 AM »
Expand Quote
Just ditch the thunders. I tried to do that shit too because I like how they look but going back to Indy felt so good.

Super short wheelbases on thunders in my opinion sucks ass. I liked short wheelbases on indys, but I could literally not ollie when I put the same board on the thunders. I got smaller wheels and a much longer wheelbase and steeper concave and it helped, but I still didn't like the thunders. I love the feeling of being lower to the ground but wheelbite and how they turn, I just gave up. I just threw it on an extra setup that my girlfriend fucks around with on weekends.
[close]
Yep. This is sage advice. Seriously.
There's more to truck geometry than just wheelbase. Last 2 times I tried to get ppl to talk about truck geo I got crickets.
If you're just talking about how the pop is different then the easiest thing would be to look for a deck with a different tail. I guessing you'd want a longer and/or flatter tail, that'd make the angle less steep when you hit your tail.

i like the kingpin angle in thunder. Makes a great turning truck.

No usa base plates no ride. There was major geometry changes that make the truck suck today for me.

Venture ace sometimes indy are the best i feel. Especially since you dont have to ride a fuckin baby board today.

I hated trends tiny wheels fuckin $60 fnc big and tall goodwill fits.

Funny I locked on to kalis in Lick because we had the same big and tall fake FNC kit. 40x48 cut them at the proper knees and get into a fight at school with the entire basketball team and get sent to day hospital for punk rockers cutters teenage dope fiends and SLALOM folks.

There was a nymphomaniac. The first one of many.
She saw my shalom and could not help but super glue her foot to my dick for 5 days. Except when i was in the "quite room" for gettin hackysacked.

What tgread am i in.

I got smaller wheels and a much longer wheelbase and mellow kicks no concave for i and thunders.

Im going to get a photo of my last thunder for the other thread.

Dont drill unless your out of options i say.
« Last Edit: January 17, 2020, 11:53:04 AM by Banned from the room »
Plz stop killing each other
(A)pl(E)




spanyard

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #11 on: January 17, 2020, 08:59:59 AM »
^"drugs are a hell of a drug."

Paperclip20

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #12 on: January 17, 2020, 10:02:28 AM »

Uncle Flea

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #13 on: January 17, 2020, 11:51:49 AM »
^"drugs are a hell of a drug."

im off everything even dabs now. Too many complaints about miscommunication and misconduct
Plz stop killing each other
(A)pl(E)




satan

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #14 on: January 17, 2020, 05:27:05 PM »
Expand Quote
^"drugs are a hell of a drug."
[close]

im off everything even dabs now. Too many complaints about miscommunication and misconduct
i gotcha covered mang

satan

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Re: Drill-bit size for truck hardware?
« Reply #15 on: January 17, 2020, 10:53:05 PM »
3/16" is standard. 7/32" is the old standard. If you use 3/16" make sure you use a drill press. I clamped a baseplate on as a jig, using a hand drill, and it still didn't line up correctly.
Didn't trust my memory so I remeasured everything. Ya, my memory has been sucking lately.
I could only find my crappy drill set and it's missing 7/32", doesn't have 13/64".

Checked a few decks and 3/16" is a lil small or just about perfect.
Loose on a lightly used Dwindle, loose on a few year old unridden PS Stix, snug on a new BBS, really snug on a Powell Quicktail, loose on an og Kingsize.
Measured the holes with calipers and..
(Used) Dwindle is in the 0.205-0.210" range, and that measurement should be a lil small. PS Stix 0.210-0.220". BBS 0.195-0.200"..
Ps Stix was assembled so maybe the bolts loosened things up? Overall it is a real lemon of a board.

Base plate holes are ~0.205", but again that measurement should be small..

7/32" = 0.21875", so that's pretty close. I can't think of anything closer besides maybe a # size.
5.5mm? That's 0.217"
5mm = 0.197"
3/16" or 7/32" would be the cheapest/easiest to find options.

A "magic" Diamond bolt is 0.185" at the shank so 3/16" (0.1875") fits hardware better.

Some info on screw/drill size. You want a 0.196"-0.201" hole
http://harveytool.com/secure/Content/Documents/Chart_ClearanceHoleDrillSizes.pdf
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_drill_and_tap_sizes


And cuz you said jig..
A small woodshop called Churchill used to sell a steel "rider pad" with 8 holes as a redrilling jig. They'd clamp 2 of them together with a steel tube for alignment.
I think it was 1/2" or 3/4" thick, drilled for 1/2" wb change. They go by funbox now.
https://funboxskate.com/

And there's this crazy jig
He uses a #11 (0.191") bit
http://www.peterverdone.com/that-tool-youve-wanted-for-about-35-years/
« Last Edit: January 18, 2020, 12:23:06 AM by satan »