Compared to snowboarding, BMX and skateboarding, surfing is relatively risk free day to day. However, the ocean is not to be fucked with and when things go wrong in big surf it can be terrifying.
The biggest risk in surfing is watching your blood pressure rise when dealing with other surfers.
If only I could surf with Elissa, Chico and Danny Dicola and not hundreds of Portland kooks snd aggro seaside locals.