questions that don't deserve their own thread

[Woodshop]

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Do you also „repair“ decks? I often get split laminates on either side of the kicks from landing primo and if I leave it unattended those become chips, so I started glueing them and put them in clamps overnight, then sand them with leftover griptape. This works quite well and the glued bits seem to be stronger than before.

[close]

For whatever reason I haven't had to do it in years but if I ever chipped a board I'd always keep the chip then superglue/clamp it back on when I got home.
My first pro board was that blue BW habitat Brian wenning and it delammed like wet Weetbix. Used pretty much a tube of glue on it after every skate. Turns out that was just something that happened with habitat and alien boards a lot in the early 00s

I always have those little super glue tubes ready if needed, even a good pair of grips in case a chip happens, which I can glue and then clamp for a minute and all good for any board in the place.

Some people I know definitely went to great lengths to keep their board nice and well looked after, even using clear coat on the repairs afterwards, or after reshaping things like the kicks if they had worn down a little too much or wanted to reshape it for whatever reason.

I guess for most people who have a board for a month or less, they don't really do much besides skate it to death, but for others, self included, who usually have a board for a whole lot longer than that, it pays to look after it and make sure it doesn't suffer any issues before you are done with it.


* The left over grip is also a good one - always keep some on hand just in case and it definitely helps.

[fakie varial flip]

Here's a real dumb question I never figured out: how do people like Berle and Greco (during their appropriate eras) wear dickies so fitted? I can't wear dickies without either looking like Stranger in Skypager or crushing my balls to jelly. Do dudes with those really well-fitted dickies just accept the ball crunch like I do with my evil "i have to go to work now" pants? Do they have longer legs so they don't look as much like a child skating (like I do)? I feel like I will never figure this out

[Mean salto]

Here's a real dumb question I never figured out: how do people like Berle and Greco (during their appropriate eras) wear dickies so fitted? I can't wear dickies without either looking like Stranger in Skypager or crushing my balls to jelly. Do dudes with those really well-fitted dickies just accept the ball crunch like I do with my evil "i have to go to work now" pants? Do they have longer legs so they don't look as much like a child skating (like I do)? I feel like I will never figure this out

I have the same crushed balls problem but I'm pretty tall. I always assumed somehow I have a longer crotch/ass area than short people and Dickies don't take that into account when they make bigger sizes. I've even tried on pairs way too big that are still pressed right into my taint.
I feel like you need to just have the right dimensions from like taint to dick base to where the button is/ top of legs to hip length.

[fakie varial flip]

Expand Quote

Here's a real dumb question I never figured out: how do people like Berle and Greco (during their appropriate eras) wear dickies so fitted? I can't wear dickies without either looking like Stranger in Skypager or crushing my balls to jelly. Do dudes with those really well-fitted dickies just accept the ball crunch like I do with my evil "i have to go to work now" pants? Do they have longer legs so they don't look as much like a child skating (like I do)? I feel like I will never figure this out

[close]

I have the same crushed balls problem but I'm pretty tall. I always assumed somehow I have a longer crotch/ass area than short people and Dickies don't take that into account when they make bigger sizes. I've even tried on pairs way too big that are still pressed right into my taint.
I feel like you need to just have the right dimensions from like taint to dick base to where the button is/ top of legs to hip length.

I'm crazy average in both height and weight and I still even get them dragging on the ground if I size up... I looked at some of the slim cut once and I don't honestly know how someone could skate in them with that crotch, and I typically wear slimmer clothes

[j....soy.....]

Perhaps the taint measurement is as important as the leg opening…..I equate it to the fingers of flat measurment…

[MusclesMarinara]

Do you also „repair“ decks? I often get split laminates on either side of the kicks from landing primo and if I leave it unattended those become chips, so I started glueing them and put them in clamps overnight, then sand them with leftover griptape. This works quite well and the glued bits seem to be stronger than before.

Rewind 15 years ago my dad used to do this to my decks all the time. I couldn't believe it worked so well.

[theoriginalgoon]

Perhaps the taint measurement is as important as the leg opening…..I equate it to the fingers of flat measurment…

yeah it defiitely is, its called the front rise for people wondering. the larger the front rise the less ball crushing the pants.

[Mean salto]

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Perhaps the taint measurement is as important as the leg opening…..I equate it to the fingers of flat measurment…

[close]

yeah it defiitely is, its called the front rise for people wondering. the larger the front rise the less ball crushing the pants.

Yes but it's still not perfect. You need to look at all the measurements together. You can end up with some tube crotch no hip movement pants (see thynan Costa parts) where the inability to move your legs freely sideways means your thighs are either restricted or going to hulk out the sides or crotch of the pants.

[Noble Experiment]

Do you also „repair“ decks? I often get split laminates on either side of the kicks from landing primo and if I leave it unattended those become chips, so I started glueing them and put them in clamps overnight, then sand them with leftover griptape. This works quite well and the glued bits seem to be stronger than before.

I just did the other day. Had some bad dents in my board that were bothering me since the board was still so new, so I bought wood filler and filled it up.

[braksabbath]

Has anyone redrilled the rear trucks for shorter wheelbase? I’ve done the front on two boards but hate how much extra flat it adds to my front foot. On transition I need my shoe locked in against the nose, seems less consequential on the tail

[Easy Slider]

Expand Quote

Do you also „repair“ decks? I often get split laminates on either side of the kicks from landing primo and if I leave it unattended those become chips, so I started glueing them and put them in clamps overnight, then sand them with leftover griptape. This works quite well and the glued bits seem to be stronger than before.

[close]

I just did the other day. Had some bad dents in my board that were bothering me since the board was still so new, so I bought wood filler and filled it up.

Wood filler now that‘s an idea.

[Woodshop]

Has anyone redrilled the rear trucks for shorter wheelbase? I’ve done the front on two boards but hate how much extra flat it adds to my front foot. On transition I need my shoe locked in against the nose, seems less consequential on the tail

Over the years, more so on random or "test boards" that were pretty thrashed, I have had a whole lot of mixed results from redrilling boards, both shortening and lengthening the wheelbase.

Really steep boards with longer wheelbases benefit well from being drilled in on the tail (shortening it by 3/8" using the six hole baseplate method) but can definitely affect the point at which boards lift for manuals - often making them almost too quick to lift, if that makes sense.

The main reason I have drilled in a couple of boards on the back truck that made them really good (normal feeling) is they just felt like the rear truck position was too far back, so there were not enough fingers of flat / a very heavy manual point.

Sometimes drilling the back truck in makes the manual / lift point way too light, so the best way to test this first is use the six hole baseplate and just put the truck on through the far back two bolts through the "spare" deck bolt holes in the six hole baseplate (entire truck setup with just two bolts) and just stand on the board to feel the manual point.  If it is comfortable, then it should work well, but if it is too light, then it might not be so good to drill it in.


Many people shorten the wheelbase on the nose (and you can use the same method as above to get a feel for it first), but I know quite a few people drill out some boards too, as they prefer 15+ wheelbases, so often the nose becomes almost too heavy / hard to nose manual on, but doesn't really affect the lift back in on deckers on ramps, oddly enough.

That's just a quick take on redrilling, but often if the board is not working as it is, redrilling it might be the best way to make it work better for you - better than getting rid of a perfectly good board anyway.

[Mbrimson88]

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Expand Quote

Here's a real dumb question I never figured out: how do people like Berle and Greco (during their appropriate eras) wear dickies so fitted? I can't wear dickies without either looking like Stranger in Skypager or crushing my balls to jelly. Do dudes with those really well-fitted dickies just accept the ball crunch like I do with my evil "i have to go to work now" pants? Do they have longer legs so they don't look as much like a child skating (like I do)? I feel like I will never figure this out

[close]

I have the same crushed balls problem but I'm pretty tall. I always assumed somehow I have a longer crotch/ass area than short people and Dickies don't take that into account when they make bigger sizes. I've even tried on pairs way too big that are still pressed right into my taint.
I feel like you need to just have the right dimensions from like taint to dick base to where the button is/ top of legs to hip length.

[close]

I'm crazy average in both height and weight and I still even get them dragging on the ground if I size up... I looked at some of the slim cut once and I don't honestly know how someone could skate in them with that crotch, and I typically wear slimmer clothes

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Perhaps the taint measurement is as important as the leg opening…..I equate it to the fingers of flat measurment…

[close]

yeah it defiitely is, its called the front rise for people wondering. the larger the front rise the less ball crushing the pants.

[close]

Yes but it's still not perfect. You need to look at all the measurements together. You can end up with some tube crotch no hip movement pants (see thynan Costa parts) where the inability to move your legs freely sideways means your thighs are either restricted or going to hulk out the sides or crotch of the pants.

More than anything, body shape is the main factor whether or not those pants (or the different styles, mainly 872, 873 and 874) will fit well or not.

I first got a pair of 874 a long time ago and thought they were the weirdest fit I have ever had.  Others had said go up a size, so when I did get a size up and put a belt in them, it was a whole different experience and I haven't looked back, maybe 20 years in 874s now.  I still am not a fan of brand new pants, but the well worn in pants are now so soft and comfotable to skate in, as well as live in, sleep in, etc - yes sometimes I have gone days without changing for whatever reason.

The others like the 872 are so totally weird and I could or would never be able to wear them, but some others I skate with swear by them and say they are the best pants in the fit department for them.

Some also prefer the 873 pants too, so just different body shapes and types, as well as getting whatever size that works and getting used to how the pants wear.

I know others who have had their 874s taken in more so in the lower leg, so they actually look more like the slim fit pants but still had the regular rise and seat.


As an example, I wear my 874s pretty high, belt tight on the normal x 32 length which fit best overall, but I do have some x 30 length and they are too short in the body / crotch (cut them off as shorts so not so bad), just like x 34 length are a bit long overall, but have a lot more room in the crotch area too (taken up to be 32 length).


How you wear them will change the feel and fit as well, so nowdays I feel weird and the 874 pants feel uncomfortable if I am not wearing a belt and they sit lower than I am used to, but the 872 and 873 are lower rise pants so they will often fit better if they are not pulled up so high too.

Some people trip out on this when I explain it to them, but when they try on the three different pairs they realise pretty quickly how different they fit too.

[Dwyck]

Thanks for the offset answers, Im venturing out of the formula four space and I think i want a more period-appropriate fishtail in my quiver. I also have huge feet but skate as well on 139s as I do on 55s. Maybe slower. Anyway I have the brain disease wear I want to have 3 or 4 distinct set ups but I want them to all skate sorta similar 


On Dickies: The limited rise is what introduced me to Red Kaps and also just back into denim. I put on some weight after college and suddenly couldn't front 180 in my TTS 874s

[rawbertson.]

is there any trick on "working in" bushings ? I normally just crank it down to the tightness I want the first day I get the new trucks nad just kinda go from there. I normally split the bushings though. does it make any difference if you slowly tighten it a little bit more each session? I am planning on keeping them a bit looser this time as well

[manysnakes]

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Thank you all for your responses, seriously appreciate it

@braksabbath - why do you hate wearing them, is it just uncomfortable?

[close]

They’re comfortable enough and I forget they’re there after a few minutes but there’s the irrational fear of my thumb sticking to the ground while the rest slides and you can’t grab the board for transition grabby things. I should just wear them more.

Plastic on your board = Hellride
Plastic on your body = Whack

Also I love these things. Fits under pants, very comfy, provides some warmth in winter. Got em after my knee cap went full speed into a rail two months ago and I still have a bone bruise.
https://g-form.com/knee-pads-mountain-bike-skateboard

I frequently wonder why this stuff isn't more popular with skaters. Even the BMXers at my local park at wearing G-Form now. The fact that it disappears under your clothes should mean skaters love it.

Ultimately I know why - because skaters are sticks in the mud. But I still find it surprising that they haven't sponsored any skaters.

[manysnakes]

Do you also „repair“ decks? I often get split laminates on either side of the kicks from landing primo and if I leave it unattended those become chips, so I started glueing them and put them in clamps overnight, then sand them with leftover griptape. This works quite well and the glued bits seem to be stronger than before.

I do this often. Recently, I sent a new deck into the railing at the skatepark. After the session, I filled the split with wood glue and left it clamped upright (trucks and all) in my vise for a day. The spot held for the rest of the life of the deck.

[manysnakes]

Here's a real dumb question I never figured out: how do people like Berle and Greco (during their appropriate eras) wear dickies so fitted? I can't wear dickies without either looking like Stranger in Skypager or crushing my balls to jelly. Do dudes with those really well-fitted dickies just accept the ball crunch like I do with my evil "i have to go to work now" pants? Do they have longer legs so they don't look as much like a child skating (like I do)? I feel like I will never figure this out

Both of these skaters seem to me like men who have a personal relationship with a tailor.

[notinternetfamous]

is there any trick on "working in" bushings ? I normally just crank it down to the tightness I want the first day I get the new trucks nad just kinda go from there. I normally split the bushings though. does it make any difference if you slowly tighten it a little bit more each session? I am planning on keeping them a bit looser this time as well

From what I've been told is that you're not supposed to touch them at all. Just run the factory tightness setting for 1-2 weeks and allow the bushings to firm up before making any adjustments (loosening or tightening). This is what I normally do before making any changes such as removing a washer, changing pivot cups/bushings, etc. This works for me and I think its the best method if you prefer skating stock bushings., especially on Aces or Thunders

[LebowskisRug]

I don’t think it matters. If you adjust them and they firm up you’ll naturally loosen them and Vice versa. Just ride your board and tweak to keep them consistent and eventually they will settle. I will say that my Indy bushings need almost no break in they’re solid after an hour and Thunders never “firm up” for me

[braksabbath]

How would you measure the radius of an existing ramp to copy it?

[Mbrimson88]

How would you measure the radius of an existing ramp to copy it?

It depends how big it is, but for now let's say it is NOT over head height, which makes everything a whole lot easier.


Most ramps will have a set radius between 6 to 9 feet depending on how big they are, eg my small ramp is quite tight at about 5 ft radius, cut off at 2 ft, but the main half pipe everyone loves to skate is 8 ft radius cut off about 6 feet. in height.


Smaller ramps I have used something like a cardboard box from a fridge to hold beside to trace the side of the transition, but a sheet of ply would also be good to take a radius line on.

Other ramps I have used a measuring tape and marked out a scale drawing on paper, taking measurements at 10 or 20 cm intervals along the base and then tracing out the transition, to then work out the radius.


The most common way to get a good transition is have a fixed point, run a string line or solid piece of something from that point and mark out on the pieces of wood which you then cut and use as a template for all other transitions.


Sorry if you already knew all that.


If it is some ramp or bowl that you cannot easily measure the side radius, measure the depth / height of the thing from flat to coping, then from the eye level of coping, measure from the start of the flat to the coping, which should give you a rough guide and try mapping that out with rough radius lengths.

I have made quite a few ramps over the years, but a lot were a little too tight and a couple too mellow, so getting the transition exactly right is key to having something that works.


imagehost

 

[beandemon]

As usual, Mbrimson88's post is excellent.  Don't forget to allow for ply layers if you're trying to match the existing ramp exactly.

[Velcro Wallet]

Do you ollie and nollie with your foot deep in the pocket of the tail/nose (see Carlos Ribero) or have your foot on the very edge of the tail/nose

[manysnakes]

Do you ollie and nollie with your foot deep in the pocket of the tail/nose (see Carlos Ribero) or have your foot on the very edge of the tail/nose

I can ollie from more or less anywhere. If I’m popping over something high, my foot is going to be further back. I’m not nearly as talented at nollies so my foot is usually towards the center of the board if I want to get up more than a 7”.

[billy english]

what video did kenny hughes do that huge 180?

[DanCorteseFromMTVSports]

Do you also „repair“ decks? I often get split laminates on either side of the kicks from landing primo and if I leave it unattended those become chips, so I started glueing them and put them in clamps overnight, then sand them with leftover griptape. This works quite well and the glued bits seem to be stronger than before.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8257-KwikWood-Stick-1/dp/B002NJDAJY

Kwikwood. Can get it at most stores including Home Depot, Walmart, Target, etc. Not the prettiest but ive had much better luck filling in a chip with this versus trying to glue the piece back on.

[bbk]

Do you ollie and nollie with your foot deep in the pocket of the tail/nose (see Carlos Ribero) or have your foot on the very edge of the tail/nose

Normal and fakie on the tip of the tail, switch and nollie in the pocket of the nose. Always.

[Mbrimson88]

As usual, Mbrimson88's post is excellent.  Don't forget to allow for ply layers if you're trying to match the existing ramp exactly.

Yeah, sometimes I read back over it and think, I might have made that a bit more confusing than it should be.


Also good point on the ply layers.  Most of mine are minimum of 3 layers of 7 mm ply (21+ mm thickness) but I know some bigger / more mellow ramps use three layers of even thicker stuff, so it can end up with almost 30mm surface thickness.

Thin surface layers flex more easily to shape to the transition but the last thing you want is to have someone go through it, but that is another thing entirely.

[biaherl]

How would you measure the radius of an existing ramp to copy it?

If you cant trace it from the end of the ramp or hip in a bowl, I would make a template much like you would for a kitchen counter.
1/4" Luan ply cut to 4"X16" long. Line them up on the ramp on their 1/4" sides then screw and glue the ends together and you will have something that resembles a qp. Make a scribing tool from scrap, a 3" long piece with a hole for your pencil or marker at the 2" mark. Then scribe the shape with your scribing tool keeping one end pressed onto the transition while marking the outline with your marker. Now you have the true shape of the transition to cut out. Cut close to the line and hand sand to the line for the perfect shape. This is the one way to guarantee that you have the exact shape.

If I did this with a helper who has never done this type of work it would probably take us about 20 minutes to do

If it was me I would just guess it " looks like 6 foot transition to me" I've been happy with the guessing technique many times