The Indy Thread

[brownjenkin]

Finally got around to skating the forged hollow mids with the IKP. Thoroughly enjoyed the lowness of the board however, the trucks weigh just too much for me. Felt like skating with weights on which is helpful for some tricks but you get tired out quickly. Please make a indy 52mm with the standard hollow weight hanger and no IKP.

I'd love nothing more than this truck. I feel like Indy blew a golden opportunity with their mid. A 52mm Indy is perfet. I have a set of the forged hollow mid and I really liked the feel of them, but the KP loosening on its own was a real bummer.

By what I've heard on here, sounds like Ace managed to nail the KP clearance and turn on their low truck by changing the baseplate rather than the hanger. They got better KP clearance than the regular AF1s, with no need to invert the kingpin. 49mm is too crazy for me though. I was tempted to try them with a 1/8 riser to get them to 52.

As for now, I'm back on the regular FH 144s.

[OneMassiveCalf]

I have 3 sets of Indy trucks I ride regularly. Two are 169s, and the third is 159. The thing is, they each ride very differently.

169s I bought about a year ago: super carvy.
159s I bought about five years ago: not very carvy.
169s I bought in 2011: fuckin’ stiff as those spam emails say they can make my dick (“with just one easy trick”)

So my question is, does this have to do with different stages? And also, is there any way you can tell one stage from another by looking at them?

[jakeumms]

I have 3 sets of Indy trucks I ride regularly. Two are 169s, and the third is 159. The thing is, they each ride very differently.

169s I bought about a year ago: super carvy.
159s I bought about five years ago: not very carvy.
169s I bought in 2011: fuckin’ stiff as those spam emails say they can make my dick (“with just one easy trick”)

So my question is, does this have to do with different stages? And also, is there any way you can tell one stage from another by looking at them?

I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings. The story is Indy improved the stock bushings when they fully moved production to China in 2019 or so. So you might have the cruddy older stock in the 159s and the newer ones in the stage 11 169s. The older 169s are likely stage 10s as the 11s came out in 2012. Stage 10s have slightly different geometry and are 53mm height instead of the more common Indy standard of 55mm. Also those bushings may have straight up fossilized if they are the same ones they came with.

[OneMassiveCalf]

I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings...

Aha! That sounds like the answer! The bushings on the good 169s do look different than those on the 159s. I'll hafta snag a new set and try it out. Thanks!

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings...

[close]

Aha! That sounds like the answer! The bushings on the good 169s do look different than those on the 159s. I'll hafta snag a new set and try it out. Thanks!

Agree with @jakeumms on the bushings.


Definitely the bushing change over the years made them a whole lot more turny, but also urethane cures and hardens over time, so trying the mix and match bushings in the older trucks might make a difference too. 

I fully waxed up every connecting bit of some older trucks recently - that is every facing part of pivot cup, hanger, bushing seats, washers and bushings themselves (just to see how it worked) and it made such a huge difference in how things turned so easily compared to what they were like before.  Not saying this will fix everything, but it definitely changed for the better, going from a stiff feeling turn to a much more fluid feeling turn on the older trucks.  Just go easy on it cause you don't want it getting messy, but it solved the squeaks and clicks too.


Differences in parts:

Older bushings - almost a poured sharp edge look to one side, slightly rounded other edge, flat face.

Newer bushings - concentric circles on the machined edge, same slightly rounded other edge, flat face.


Indy Stage 9 (from 2003) - two hollow parts (like nostrils) in baseplate with a single line cross on the front, hanger 53mm or so in height

Indy Stage 10 (from 2010) - solid baseplate, still single line cross on the front, hanger 53mm or so in height

Indy Stage 11 (from 2012) - solid baseplate, circle line round single line cross on the front, hanger 55mm in height on cast baseplates (with either solid kingpin or hollow kingpin option), 53.5mm in height on forged baseplates (always with hollow kingpin)

All sizes from 129, 139, 149, 159 and 169 during those times / stages, then 144 in 2017



From that I would guess that you have two Stage 11 sets and one earlier Stage 10 set of trucks, but the cross logo on the baseplate is the easiest make for the earlier stages.

* Almost forgot to add, no cross on the baseplates is only from 2020 or so onwards for new trucks.  Most shops would have no old stock with crosses on now, but there are still a lot of sets around, so even then what you bought could have been earlier stages too, but most likely a Stage 10, then two sets of Stage 11 in more recent times.

[OneMassiveCalf]

Expand Quote

I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings...

[close]

Aha! That sounds like the answer! The bushings on the good 169s do look different than those on the 159s. I'll hafta snag a new set and try it out. Thanks!

Holy smokes! You were so right! I got a set of new regular indy bushings and now I'm carving around like one of those instagram bikini models.  Thanks dudes!

[GBLange]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

I'm guessing the issue with the new trucks feeling different might be down to the bushings...

[close]

Aha! That sounds like the answer! The bushings on the good 169s do look different than those on the 159s. I'll hafta snag a new set and try it out. Thanks!

[close]

Holy smokes! You were so right! I got a set of new regular indy bushings and now I'm carving around like one of those instagram bikini models.  Thanks dudes!

good for ya..

[Creachteach]

Dudes, what are these?

Obviously Indy’s. But what year/stage?
They have conical standard Orange bushings.
The hanger yoke is oriented the opposite way.
The baseplate seems lower than modern casts but still look/feel cast. Has cross. Is fairly solid. Say USA underneath.
Geometry is little different.

[jimgrude]

Looks like stage 7 or 8, but can't tell which without seeing the bottom of the baseplates.

[disclosed]

got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.

what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.

my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.

[Creachteach]

Looks like stage 7 or 8, but can't tell which without seeing the bottom of the baseplates.

I’ve already bolted them on 

The baseplates are all solid except for divot with USA stamp. These have cross logo and six holes. According to this Willie character, this makes them stage 8s.


Yay, free trucks.

[Mbrimson88]

got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.

what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.

my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.

That is the most common thing with the newer ones (anything without the cross really) as the pivot cups are a harder material and often feel like or sound like they have blown out, even though they have not.

If you end up with a funny more metallic ding sound when the truck hits the ground, more so on the truck with the newer pivot cup, just switch it out for any other older pivot cup or an after market pivot cup from any of the main brands or plain generic one and it should make it sound and feel like normal.


Some people I know hate on the new trucks pretty hard, but when I switched out the newer harder pivot cups, they skate way better and feel more normal.  The baseplate, the hanger, the bushings work just as well if not better, depending on your preference or opinion, but whatever they are using for pivot cups is bringing the whole truck, brand name and no cross / now diamond logo or whatever down in a way that is really such a simple fix.

[Boog]

got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.

what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.

my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.

Why didn't you just swap the front truck to the back?

[disclosed]

Expand Quote

got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.

what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.

my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.

[close]

Why didn't you just swap the front truck to the back?

was skating them in for the past 2 weeks. already got solid grooves in them before i realized they wont be breaking in the way i wanted. also swapping pivots is taking off 2 nuts total, while the whole trucks means 8 nuts. no powertools here so this was way faster.

That is the most common thing with the newer ones (anything without the cross really) as the pivot cups are a harder material and often feel like or sound like they have blown out, even though they have not.

If you end up with a funny more metallic ding sound when the truck hits the ground, more so on the truck with the newer pivot cup, just switch it out for any other older pivot cup or an after market pivot cup from any of the main brands or plain generic one and it should make it sound and feel like normal.


Some people I know hate on the new trucks pretty hard, but when I switched out the newer harder pivot cups, they skate way better and feel more normal.  The baseplate, the hanger, the bushings work just as well if not better, depending on your preference or opinion, but whatever they are using for pivot cups is bringing the whole truck, brand name and no cross / now diamond logo or whatever down in a way that is really such a simple fix.

hope they fix it. i don't mind swapping to some aftermarkets. but really a truck should just function as they supposed to do when they come stock.

[Mbrimson88]

hope they fix it. i don't mind swapping to some aftermarkets. but really a truck should just function as they supposed to do when they come stock.

100% Agreed!

[Boog]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

got a new set of indy's recently. but appears one of them still had the logo on it. so it mustve been sitting for a while. the other one had the size on the hangers so its pretty new i guess.

what i discovered was that the older one steered much smoother, wich i had already put on the back. while i coulnt get the new one on the front to even match the turn of the back one. which made this the oppsite of what i normally ride. surfy front truck more stable back truck.
tried to switch the bushings around, but that did nothing. so in a last desperate attempt i switched the pivotcups. from front to back. and that was it. problem solved. now the fron is surfy and the back stable even tho theyre about the same tightness.

my guess is the new pivotcups are not the same anymore. they made this loud ass creaking sound too while the other was silent and turned much smoother.

[close]

Why didn't you just swap the front truck to the back?

[close]

was skating them in for the past 2 weeks. already got solid grooves in them before i realized they wont be breaking in the way i wanted. also swapping pivots is taking off 2 nuts total, while the whole trucks means 8 nuts. no powertools here so this was way faster.

Oh ok that makes sense. Don't wanna compromise the grooves.

[MC3]

congrats to josef newgarden

[Sedition]

What’s the long-term consensus about the Mids? I know there was initial consternation about the weight, kingpin clearance, kingpin “sticking” on feeble/smiths/etc., and the kingpin loosening up. How much of that seems to be legitimate complaints, or just initial fuss over them just being a bit different? I ride forged, and was considering trying Mids, but def didn’t seem like they had good initial reviews.

[Mbrimson88]

What’s the long-term consensus about the Mids? I know there was initial consternation about the weight, kingpin clearance, kingpin “sticking” on feeble/smiths/etc., and the kingpin loosening up. How much of that seems to be legitimate complaints, or just initial fuss over them just being a bit different? I ride forged, and was considering trying Mids, but def didn’t seem like they had good initial reviews.

From the truck poll, I would hazard a guess that almost everyone who has tried them has either gone back to what they were on before, or moved on to something different.

Last I saw there were zero people on the regular mids and three on the forged mids, out of currently 345 total votes.


https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=126504.0


Kingpin coming loose is a permanent issue - nothing they can do will fix it, besides someone using their own addition of locktite or similar product.

The height was key, but the weight put off a lot more people, so I think using the forged hollow standard height 53.5 mm was preferred to the mid 52 mm that was heavier and had issues.


Nothing wrong with giving them a shot though, because I know there is a market for that sort of lower truck, but most people just found they were more trouble than they were worth.

[Sedition]

Expand Quote

What’s the long-term consensus about the Mids? I know there was initial consternation about the weight, kingpin clearance, kingpin “sticking” on feeble/smiths/etc., and the kingpin loosening up. How much of that seems to be legitimate complaints, or just initial fuss over them just being a bit different? I ride forged, and was considering trying Mids, but def didn’t seem like they had good initial reviews.

[close]

From the truck poll, I would hazard a guess that almost everyone who has tried them has either gone back to what they were on before, or moved on to something different.

Last I saw there were zero people on the regular mids and three on the forged mids, out of currently 345 total votes.


https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=126504.0


Kingpin coming loose is a permanent issue - nothing they can do will fix it, besides someone using their own addition of locktite or similar product.

The height was key, but the weight put off a lot more people, so I think using the forged hollow standard height 53.5 mm was preferred to the mid 52 mm that was heavier and had issues.


Nothing wrong with giving them a shot though, because I know there is a market for that sort of lower truck, but most people just found they were more trouble than they were worth.

Duly noted. Thanks.

[LebowskisRug]

Tiago and Carlos still ride the mids and I see them a decent amount locally in SD, but the TM is also here so that could be part of it.