Spitfire formula four

[LebowskisRug]

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Question(s) for all the "classic full" enthusiasts:

How do you find they compare to regular classics?

Looking at the specs for the 52mm, it appears the fulls are only 1mm wider but have a decently wider contact patch.

Is there any noticeable difference in weight and performance?

I like the way wider wheels look and feel but I'm also noticing my pop diminishing a bit lately (I'm 34).

[close]

I have in my head that the idea behind these is that they are a skated down version of their 2mm larger classic version, like the 54mm classic full is like a skated down 56mm classic, but I admit it can't be right because these will get even wider still once they are skated down.

This is it. A 52 full is just a broken in 53 without the break in. It’s a glorious shape.

[Rattus Localis]

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Question(s) for all the "classic full" enthusiasts:

How do you find they compare to regular classics?

Looking at the specs for the 52mm, it appears the fulls are only 1mm wider but have a decently wider contact patch.

Is there any noticeable difference in weight and performance?

I like the way wider wheels look and feel but I'm also noticing my pop diminishing a bit lately (I'm 34).

[close]

I have in my head that the idea behind these is that they are a skated down version of their 2mm larger classic version, like the 54mm classic full is like a skated down 56mm classic, but I admit it can't be right because these will get even wider still once they are skated down.

[close]

This is it. A 52 full is just a broken in 53 without the break in. It’s a glorious shape.

Thanks, I think I know what I need to do.

[Mbrimson88]

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Question(s) for all the "classic full" enthusiasts:

How do you find they compare to regular classics?

Looking at the specs for the 52mm, it appears the fulls are only 1mm wider but have a decently wider contact patch.

Is there any noticeable difference in weight and performance?

I like the way wider wheels look and feel but I'm also noticing my pop diminishing a bit lately (I'm 34).

[close]

I have in my head that the idea behind these is that they are a skated down version of their 2mm larger classic version, like the 54mm classic full is like a skated down 56mm classic, but I admit it can't be right because these will get even wider still once they are skated down.

[close]

This is it. A 52 full is just a broken in 53 without the break in. It’s a glorious shape.

[close]

Thanks, I think I know what I need to do.

What happened to classic fulls? I just want a fatter classic and the OG Classic is not that, has less taper

That is pretty much all correct to what I find with the wheels and a big yes from me for Classic Full shaped wheels.

One or two mm up in size for a Classic shape does wear down nicely to a good Classic Full type of wheel.

Even to the point of getting 54mm Classic wheels to skate on one setup for bigger / go faster stuff, then have another setup for more tech stuff when they get down a bit to 52mm or less.

I feel like Classics are the only wheel that I can happily skate if needed from 56mm or even 58mm down to almost 50mm without having to take the sharp edges off with a grinder, as I do with Conical Full or other styles that I get back from trades from people upgrading.

Classic Full wheels when available are just the wider version of the Classics, but at times are a difficult wheel to find, due to only releasing them for specific runs in very limited sizes, eg the last 56 and 58mm versions for the Grosso wheel and then the 54, 56 and 58mm Lance Mountain wheel were very popular back in 2019 to 2020, then I don't recall many besides the Ransom graphic 2020 / 2021 since then, but now the Repeater in 52 and 54mm in natural and 53mm in black in 2022.

When you get up into the bigger sizes, they are very wide, but for most people who want something more around the 52 to 54mm sizes, at least there are still normal Classics which wear down nicely as well.

Because the Classic shape is so rounded, they still retain some roundness to the edge even when they wear down a lot, which does mean they skate better overall for many people too.

Everyone has their own preference of wheel, so I am not trying to change any minds if you have your own thoughts that differ, but from skating pretty much all the shapes and seeing all of them at the end of their life, not just at the beginning, Classics tend to fare the best overall with less issues, chipping, sharp edges, etc.

I guess that is why they are called the "Number one wheel shape in skateboarding" or something to that effect.

[Coping Grinder]

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any of you guys find something weird about the coloured f4? i got the black classic fulls and they just feel off compared to undyed f4.

[close]

mine felt a tad softer, and honestly better.

I was told a long time ago that the dye they use to make any wheel colored is going to have an effect on the recipe of the wheel, and will most likely be noticeably harder/softer than even other dyes.

[manysnakes]

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any of you guys find something weird about the coloured f4? i got the black classic fulls and they just feel off compared to undyed f4.

[close]

mine felt a tad softer, and honestly better.

[close]

I was told a long time ago that the dye they use to make any wheel colored is going to have an effect on the recipe of the wheel, and will most likely be noticeably harder/softer than even other dyes.

Yeah, the light yellow tan of Spitfire wheels is the “natural” color of their polyurethane, according to their marketing. I’ve gotta imagine that adding any other chemicals to the mix will effect how it performs. Maybe they have engineered around this, I don’t know, but it certainly does have an effect.

[typeischeap]

I leave for a decade and come back and dyed wheels are STILL different than natural color wheels in the same durometer? C'mon science you're letting me down! 

Skated my new (but broken in) tablets back to back with my black conicals and the black wheels definitely rode softer. Maybe in my mind but I don't think so.

[El Freegano]

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Question(s) for all the "classic full" enthusiasts:

How do you find they compare to regular classics?

Looking at the specs for the 52mm, it appears the fulls are only 1mm wider but have a decently wider contact patch.

Is there any noticeable difference in weight and performance?

I like the way wider wheels look and feel but I'm also noticing my pop diminishing a bit lately (I'm 34).

[close]

I have in my head that the idea behind these is that they are a skated down version of their 2mm larger classic version, like the 54mm classic full is like a skated down 56mm classic, but I admit it can't be right because these will get even wider still once they are skated down.

[close]

This is it. A 52 full is just a broken in 53 without the break in. It’s a glorious shape.

[close]

Thanks, I think I know what I need to do.

[close]

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What happened to classic fulls? I just want a fatter classic and the OG Classic is not that, has less taper

[close]

That is pretty much all correct to what I find with the wheels and a big yes from me for Classic Full shaped wheels.

One or two mm up in size for a Classic shape does wear down nicely to a good Classic Full type of wheel.

Even to the point of getting 54mm Classic wheels to skate on one setup for bigger / go faster stuff, then have another setup for more tech stuff when they get down a bit to 52mm or less.

I feel like Classics are the only wheel that I can happily skate if needed from 56mm or even 58mm down to almost 50mm without having to take the sharp edges off with a grinder, as I do with Conical Full or other styles that I get back from trades from people upgrading.

Classic Full wheels when available are just the wider version of the Classics, but at times are a difficult wheel to find, due to only releasing them for specific runs in very limited sizes, eg the last 56 and 58mm versions for the Grosso wheel and then the 54, 56 and 58mm Lance Mountain wheel were very popular back in 2019 to 2020, then I don't recall many besides the Ransom graphic 2020 / 2021 since then, but now the Repeater in 52 and 54mm in natural and 53mm in black in 2022.

When you get up into the bigger sizes, they are very wide, but for most people who want something more around the 52 to 54mm sizes, at least there are still normal Classics which wear down nicely as well.

Because the Classic shape is so rounded, they still retain some roundness to the edge even when they wear down a lot, which does mean they skate better overall for many people too.

Everyone has their own preference of wheel, so I am not trying to change any minds if you have your own thoughts that differ, but from skating pretty much all the shapes and seeing all of them at the end of their life, not just at the beginning, Classics tend to fare the best overall with less issues, chipping, sharp edges, etc.

I guess that is why they are called the "Number one wheel shape in skateboarding" or something to that effect.

I am super thankful that I listened to your advise to get 54 classic. I prefer smaller wheels like 51-52, but the worn down classics to these dimenssions are just perfect street wheels that can be used both for tech sk8ing and also on some rougher ground.

[Rattus Localis]

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Question(s) for all the "classic full" enthusiasts:

How do you find they compare to regular classics?

Looking at the specs for the 52mm, it appears the fulls are only 1mm wider but have a decently wider contact patch.

Is there any noticeable difference in weight and performance?

I like the way wider wheels look and feel but I'm also noticing my pop diminishing a bit lately (I'm 34).

[close]

I have in my head that the idea behind these is that they are a skated down version of their 2mm larger classic version, like the 54mm classic full is like a skated down 56mm classic, but I admit it can't be right because these will get even wider still once they are skated down.

[close]

This is it. A 52 full is just a broken in 53 without the break in. It’s a glorious shape.

[close]

Thanks, I think I know what I need to do.

[close]

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What happened to classic fulls? I just want a fatter classic and the OG Classic is not that, has less taper

[close]

That is pretty much all correct to what I find with the wheels and a big yes from me for Classic Full shaped wheels.

One or two mm up in size for a Classic shape does wear down nicely to a good Classic Full type of wheel.

Even to the point of getting 54mm Classic wheels to skate on one setup for bigger / go faster stuff, then have another setup for more tech stuff when they get down a bit to 52mm or less.

I feel like Classics are the only wheel that I can happily skate if needed from 56mm or even 58mm down to almost 50mm without having to take the sharp edges off with a grinder, as I do with Conical Full or other styles that I get back from trades from people upgrading.

Classic Full wheels when available are just the wider version of the Classics, but at times are a difficult wheel to find, due to only releasing them for specific runs in very limited sizes, eg the last 56 and 58mm versions for the Grosso wheel and then the 54, 56 and 58mm Lance Mountain wheel were very popular back in 2019 to 2020, then I don't recall many besides the Ransom graphic 2020 / 2021 since then, but now the Repeater in 52 and 54mm in natural and 53mm in black in 2022.

When you get up into the bigger sizes, they are very wide, but for most people who want something more around the 52 to 54mm sizes, at least there are still normal Classics which wear down nicely as well.

Because the Classic shape is so rounded, they still retain some roundness to the edge even when they wear down a lot, which does mean they skate better overall for many people too.

Everyone has their own preference of wheel, so I am not trying to change any minds if you have your own thoughts that differ, but from skating pretty much all the shapes and seeing all of them at the end of their life, not just at the beginning, Classics tend to fare the best overall with less issues, chipping, sharp edges, etc.

I guess that is why they are called the "Number one wheel shape in skateboarding" or something to that effect.

Cheers lads, I pulled the trigger on the 52s. Lord knows I don't need any more wheels, but I found a way of talking myself into it.

[FuzzGNU]

I'm enjoying my Radial Full 99a 56mm so far. I haven't ridden them long enough for a full review.

I can't really say if I like them more or less than Conical Full yet. They definitely feel a bit different. They're definitely the biggest wheel I've ever skated.

One thing that surprised me though. My wheel actually chunked a bit on the edge? Its not massive or anything, but I don't know if I've ever had chunking on a hard (especially) rounded wheels? Especially not in the first handful of sessions.

I haven't even grinded on anything, this is literally just from 4-5 sessions on flatground and skating to/from in the street. Must literally just be from a pebble.

[fakie varial flip]

I have to say i'm impressed by all of you that can consistently skate the classic shape. This is now the third time i've bought classics and within a month gone back to conical shape wheels. I skate both street and transition and for both I just cannot do narrow contact patch - i'll slide out on backside flips and feel like i'm not hanging on in corners well enough.

Definitely time to give up the ghost on the classic shape for me.

Switched back to the 97a conical full I have and they are dreamy and somehow have the best powerslide of any wheel I have!

[FuzzGNU]

I have to say i'm impressed by all of you that can consistently skate the classic shape. This is now the third time i've bought classics and within a month gone back to conical shape wheels. I skate both street and transition and for both I just cannot do narrow contact patch - i'll slide out on backside flips and feel like i'm not hanging on in corners well enough.

Definitely time to give up the ghost on the classic shape for me.

Switched back to the 97a conical full I have and they are dreamy and somehow have the best powerslide of any wheel I have!

I'm considering grabbing another 97a Conical Full too. It's just so crusty here. Hopefully they keep improving the 97a formula and give it some more shapes. The wheels are noticably slower, and personally slide like shit for me, but I can't deny how much better they handle shitty terrain than 99a. I wonder why they slide so much better for you.

I've got some STF 99a on the back burner to try. But if those can't handle the crust better than 99a F4 then I might have to reluctantly go back to 97a for any local skating.

[fakie varial flip]

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I have to say i'm impressed by all of you that can consistently skate the classic shape. This is now the third time i've bought classics and within a month gone back to conical shape wheels. I skate both street and transition and for both I just cannot do narrow contact patch - i'll slide out on backside flips and feel like i'm not hanging on in corners well enough.

Definitely time to give up the ghost on the classic shape for me.

Switched back to the 97a conical full I have and they are dreamy and somehow have the best powerslide of any wheel I have!

[close]

I'm considering grabbing another 97a Conical Full too. It's just so crusty here. Hopefully they keep improving the 97a formula and give it some more shapes. The wheels are noticably slower, and personally slide like shit for me, but I can't deny how much better they handle shitty terrain than 99a. I wonder why they slide so much better for you.

I've got some STF 99a on the back burner to try. But if those can't handle the crust better than 99a F4 then I might have to reluctantly go back to 97a for any local skating.

It's crusty as shit everywhere here too, even the skateparks are generally chunky and rough. I imagine thats why the wider wheels slide better for me, now that I think about it. Less possibility to dig into nasty concrete with a wider surface

It may also be my incredibly shitty powerslide technique hahaha

[switchfrontshuv]

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any of you guys find something weird about the coloured f4? i got the black classic fulls and they just feel off compared to undyed f4.

[close]

mine felt a tad softer, and honestly better.

Same. Im skating black Ishod 55mms and jumping off stuff seems to take less a toll on my knees.

[manysnakes]

I have to say i'm impressed by all of you that can consistently skate the classic shape. This is now the third time i've bought classics and within a month gone back to conical shape wheels. I skate both street and transition and for both I just cannot do narrow contact patch - i'll slide out on backside flips and feel like i'm not hanging on in corners well enough.

Definitely time to give up the ghost on the classic shape for me.

Switched back to the 97a conical full I have and they are dreamy and somehow have the best powerslide of any wheel I have!

I have the 97A Conical Fulls on one board and Classics on another. The Classics work especially well for the 144/44 size trucks, because the shape allows the truck to sit perfectly on top of most regular double-sided curbs, so they're excellent for slappies. As for transition, I really don't perceive much of a difference. I suppose I should skate both back-to-back, for comparisons sake.

[manysnakes]

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I have to say i'm impressed by all of you that can consistently skate the classic shape. This is now the third time i've bought classics and within a month gone back to conical shape wheels. I skate both street and transition and for both I just cannot do narrow contact patch - i'll slide out on backside flips and feel like i'm not hanging on in corners well enough.

Definitely time to give up the ghost on the classic shape for me.

Switched back to the 97a conical full I have and they are dreamy and somehow have the best powerslide of any wheel I have!

[close]

I'm considering grabbing another 97a Conical Full too. It's just so crusty here. Hopefully they keep improving the 97a formula and give it some more shapes. The wheels are noticably slower, and personally slide like shit for me, but I can't deny how much better they handle shitty terrain than 99a.

This has been the case for me, skating in the PNW. Skating the 97a, I experience significantly less fatigue after a day of skating parking lots and sidewalks than I get with 99 or 101a. There are some spots I can skate where my friends cannot because their wheels are too small or too hard.

[FuzzGNU]

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I have to say i'm impressed by all of you that can consistently skate the classic shape. This is now the third time i've bought classics and within a month gone back to conical shape wheels. I skate both street and transition and for both I just cannot do narrow contact patch - i'll slide out on backside flips and feel like i'm not hanging on in corners well enough.

Definitely time to give up the ghost on the classic shape for me.

Switched back to the 97a conical full I have and they are dreamy and somehow have the best powerslide of any wheel I have!

[close]

I'm considering grabbing another 97a Conical Full too. It's just so crusty here. Hopefully they keep improving the 97a formula and give it some more shapes. The wheels are noticably slower, and personally slide like shit for me, but I can't deny how much better they handle shitty terrain than 99a.

[close]

This has been the case for me, skating in the PNW. Skating the 97a, I experience significantly less fatigue after a day of skating parking lots and sidewalks than I get with 99 or 101a. There are some spots I can skate where my friends cannot because their wheels are too small or too hard.

Yeah, absolutely...  However, 97a is definitely not the ideal hardness for skateboarding smooth stuff. 99-103a gives you a better ground-feel, slide, and speed. The harder wheels feel more responsive and less soggy when you're popping tricks. Feels more like "skateboarding" to me with that less muted feel.

However, what is the point in having that ceiling of potential, when you can't skate to/from spots? And you get locked out of skating so many spots due to shitty ground?

How I think about it is:

99a+ has a greater ceiling/potential for fun.

97a has a greater floor/guarantee for fun.

... If that makes sense.

I've definitely given up on attempting to ride very tech anymore and embraced bigger/wider wheels... but now I'm trying to find the right softness. If I lived somewhere with smooth roads, parks, and spots I would skate Bones STF 103a and never think about it again... but now I'm trying to nail down what shapes and harnesses to juggle in the 97-99a range. At this point I have some of my most fun at skateparks, and 97a is noticeably slower at smooth parks. I'm considering becoming one of *those guys* who has two separate pairs of wheels they swap out, haha.

That being said, I've been skating some F4 Radial Full 99a, and they've been fine. They don't roll over pebbles/cracks and shitty roads quite as well as 97a Conical Fulls... but for the most part it gets the job done. My only complaint is they feel pretty heavy/cumbersome to me. Can't wait to feel how fast they feel at the skatepark.

[braksabbath]

Back on the 56mm 97a conical fulls for the indoor. The softer duro and clunkiness is only noticeable when riding slow when warming up or getting tired. Otherwise has great lock in, slides with extra push, fast enough. I strayed to 52mm 101 CF for a while, somehow managed a tiny hard wheel for a few weeks worth of wood ramp sessions but had a few too many full speed banana peel fly outs hitting whatever wax build up lurks right under the coping.
Need a 56mm 101s in a shape in between a Classic and Conical Full to replace the NFG Vee 56.

[FuzzGNU]

Need a 56mm 101s in a shape in between a Classic and Conical Full to replace the NFG Vee 56.

Sounds like Bones STF V5 to me. Maybe Spitfire Conical (non-Full) or Radial Slims, but V5's sound closest to your description.

[rocklobster]

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Need a 56mm 101s in a shape in between a Classic and Conical Full to replace the NFG Vee 56.

[close]

Sounds like Bones STF V5 to me. Maybe Spitfire Conical (non-Full) or Radial Slims, but V5's sound closest to your description.

Conical is the right answer, 56mm are just coming back into rotation but in 99a (yellow) from what I've seen.

[FuzzGNU]

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Need a 56mm 101s in a shape in between a Classic and Conical Full to replace the NFG Vee 56.

[close]

Sounds like Bones STF V5 to me. Maybe Spitfire Conical (non-Full) or Radial Slims, but V5's sound closest to your description.

[close]

Conical is the right answer, 56mm are just coming back into rotation but in 99a (yellow) from what I've seen.

Assuming he is talking about shape, not just width, the V5 is more like a hybrid between conical and classic. Its a bit more rounded than a conical. Its kind of like a wider classic on the edges, with a conical cut-in side.

[braksabbath]

Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

[goodatmeth]

Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

I'm also having really bad wobble on a new set of radials, only a single wheel. Spitfire ignored my warranty claims (sent 2, a week apart) and instagram messages for 2 weeks so far. These things are stupid expensive in europe so I'm not gonna cut them any slack for this shit

[Fooj]

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Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

[close]

I'm also having really bad wobble on a new set of radials, only a single wheel. Spitfire ignored my warranty claims (sent 2, a week apart) and instagram messages for 2 weeks so far. These things are stupid expensive in europe so I'm not gonna cut them any slack for this shit

Are you guys using the spacers and a bearing press?

[goodatmeth]

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Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

[close]

I'm also having really bad wobble on a new set of radials, only a single wheel. Spitfire ignored my warranty claims (sent 2, a week apart) and instagram messages for 2 weeks so far. These things are stupid expensive in europe so I'm not gonna cut them any slack for this shit

[close]

Are you guys using the spacers and a bearing press?

No spacers and I don't have a press. I've never had spitfires that actually fit spacers right

[braksabbath]

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Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

[close]

I'm also having really bad wobble on a new set of radials, only a single wheel. Spitfire ignored my warranty claims (sent 2, a week apart) and instagram messages for 2 weeks so far. These things are stupid expensive in europe so I'm not gonna cut them any slack for this shit

[close]

Are you guys using the spacers and a bearing press?

[close]

No spacers and I don't have a press. I've never had spitfires that actually fit spacers right

Same, gave up on spacers when different sets wouldn't fit Spit or NFG. They'd make the opposite side bearing pop out slightly. Spacers were too narrow for OJs. Bearing press didn't help the wobble on an NFG.

[Mbrimson88]

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Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

[close]

I'm also having really bad wobble on a new set of radials, only a single wheel. Spitfire ignored my warranty claims (sent 2, a week apart) and instagram messages for 2 weeks so far. These things are stupid expensive in europe so I'm not gonna cut them any slack for this shit

Talking to the shop you got them from is often the best way to get things moving.

People in USA have a more direct line to DLX, but in other areas, it should go through the local shop, local distro and then they sort it out for you.

I think you would most likely get a better response taking this path, especially if you bought them in store and can take them back to the store and show them what is going on with the wheels.

[FuzzGNU]

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Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

[close]

I'm also having really bad wobble on a new set of radials, only a single wheel. Spitfire ignored my warranty claims (sent 2, a week apart) and instagram messages for 2 weeks so far. These things are stupid expensive in europe so I'm not gonna cut them any slack for this shit

Yeah, one of my Radial Fulls definitely has a noticeable wobble. My front right wheel. I've been riding them, in hopes that maybe it would "fix" but nope. It even sort of clicks as it rolls. I really hope this isn't fucking with my bearings.

It sounds like the quality control at Spitfire has really gone downhill the past season or two. I wonder what has changed.

To be clear, when you spin your wheels the graphic might look like it "wobbles" due to it not being printed directly on center, I'm talking about the wheel is actually wobbling laterally when you look at it from the bottom of the wheel. This can't be good for rolling smoothly, and probably can't be good for the bearings with all that lateral pressure being applied.

Definitely going to be reaching out to Spitfire and Orchard.

[fs1/2cab]

Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

Had that same problem a few days ago. I put a bit of sunflower oil on a brush and smeared that inside the wheel. Then put an old bearing on my hanger and put the new bearings in the wheel. The bearings got in very easily and everything sits flush and no more wobble now.
The inside of new spitfire wheels can be a bit sticky sometimes. Oh and make sure to clean the wheels afterwards if you use some type of oil.

[Mbrimson88]

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Got a set of OG Classics and all four wobble, one being really noticeable and is dragging the bearings. Is it worth waiting for a warranty? Just checked the 97a conicals I've had for a while and they wobble too but not as bad as the new OG's, guess I didn't notice or care when I set them up.

[close]

Had that same problem a few days ago. I put a bit of sunflower oil on a brush and smeared that inside the wheel. Then put an old bearing on my hanger and put the new bearings in the wheel. The bearings got in very easily and everything sits flush and no more wobble now.
The inside of new spitfire wheels can be a bit sticky sometimes. Oh and make sure to clean the wheels afterwards if you use some type of oil.

Yes, most wheels could do with a touch of lube to help the bearings get in without having to use too much force.

The most common one is a single drop of machine oil, same as I put in bearings, on a finger and either round the rims of the bearings or around the inside bearing seat of each wheel.

I put two bearings, face down on the upturned axle, then just push the wheel down, spin to make sure it is even, turn it over and push down on the second bearing, spin again and it should be good to go.


As you said, using a spare / old bearing on your hanger first to minimise pressure on the new bearings is a good one too.


There are other things like the latest simple looking Indy tool that has a thicker part to cover the bearing rim, which I know some people use too, but I often find it is easier just to use the truck on the board to get bearings into or out of wheels.

[notinternetfamous]

https://www.spitfirewheels.com/
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