Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 8398 times)

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Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #120 on: April 28, 2021, 09:37:09 PM »
Careful now. Before you know it you could be riding a mal and snaking all and sundry.  ;D
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #121 on: April 28, 2021, 10:35:23 PM »
Cmon man my shoulders are fucked
I get sore sometimes, depends on the spot but I couldn’t give a fuck if some old cunts got a single fin
It’s fucking Noosa man

Some of those glass jobs back in the day were hectic
Ultor stitch up
Your feet would just go through the fucking things

I was thinking about grabbing an alaia off Tom, just be good to have sort of thing
Anyone had a go on one?
listen to cosmic psychos

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #122 on: April 29, 2021, 07:17:02 AM »
Expand Quote
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness
[close]

Bought a 5'8 Lost Rocket redux recently to replace my 5'7 Rocket. Defs easier to hold speed out of turns, but from 27 to 29 litres makes it feel a bit boaty. At least it paddles well.

Grabbed a 5'4"  Round Nose Fish Redux recently at 27 liters compared to my average 24
Lot's of fun
running it with the Twin plus Trailer MR set and it feels really fast but I haven't been able to totally adjust my timing and foot placement after growing up on thrusters my whole life

How are you liking the Rocket? I always wanted one and I like the pointier nose outline compared to RNF
I was thinking thr 5'5" im like 135 pounds

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #123 on: April 29, 2021, 03:57:20 PM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness
[close]

Bought a 5'8 Lost Rocket redux recently to replace my 5'7 Rocket. Defs easier to hold speed out of turns, but from 27 to 29 litres makes it feel a bit boaty. At least it paddles well.
[close]

Grabbed a 5'4"  Round Nose Fish Redux recently at 27 liters compared to my average 24
Lot's of fun
running it with the Twin plus Trailer MR set and it feels really fast but I haven't been able to totally adjust my timing and foot placement after growing up on thrusters my whole life

How are you liking the Rocket? I always wanted one and I like the pointier nose outline compared to RNF
I was thinking thr 5'5" im like 135 pounds

I love it. I think I prefer the original Rocket to the redux though. Bit less boxy. 5'5 at your weight would work well in smaller stuff. I like to ride mine when it's a bit bigger also, hence the 5'8. They paddle great. Plenty of foam under the chest.
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #124 on: April 29, 2021, 03:59:06 PM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness
[close]

Bought a 5'8 Lost Rocket redux recently to replace my 5'7 Rocket. Defs easier to hold speed out of turns, but from 27 to 29 litres makes it feel a bit boaty. At least it paddles well.
[close]

Grabbed a 5'4"  Round Nose Fish Redux recently at 27 liters compared to my average 24
Lot's of fun
running it with the Twin plus Trailer MR set and it feels really fast but I haven't been able to totally adjust my timing and foot placement after growing up on thrusters my whole life

How are you liking the Rocket? I always wanted one and I like the pointier nose outline compared to RNF
I was thinking thr 5'5" im like 135 pounds
[close]

I love it. I think I prefer the original Rocket to the redux though. Bit less boxy. 5'5 at your weight would work well in smaller stuff. I'm only slightly heavier, but I'm 5'11 and I like to ride mine when it's a bit bigger also, hence the 5'8. They paddle great. Plenty of foam under the chest.
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #125 on: April 30, 2021, 09:29:47 PM »
I apologize but it was another midlength single fin session today. The winter spot was pretty quiet because people seem to have moved on to the spring and summer spots. Lots of paddling but some overhead mush bombs provided enough room to cruise around on. some cheater fives possible while milking the inside section. Water is finally approaching mid-50s F also... Hoping to get the shortboard or twin fin out later in the weekend.

Jumping Beans

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #126 on: May 01, 2021, 12:04:55 PM »
Tried to surf some 6 footers today..



Every time I was either having to drop in vertically, or too deep to catch it despite paddling my ass off.  Stood up on a few just couldn’t get the right position or turn quick enough to stay on the face.  I like to think even “unsuccessful” sessions will make me better in the long run, but it might be time to watch a few more YouTube tutorials.

foureyedjim

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #127 on: May 01, 2021, 05:42:05 PM »
It seems like people go down bigger waves vertically quite often, but are able to bottom turn super quickly into the line. 
I longboard small waves so I can't relate lmao

I do have trouble cutting back on big boards though, anyone have tips?  I'm likely just not leaning into it with my hips enough but I'll take any suggestions.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #128 on: May 01, 2021, 07:31:12 PM »
Tried to surf some 6 footers today..



Every time I was either having to drop in vertically, or too deep to catch it despite paddling my ass off.  Stood up on a few just couldn’t get the right position or turn quick enough to stay on the face.  I like to think even “unsuccessful” sessions will make me better in the long run, but it might be time to watch a few more YouTube tutorials.

You want to drop in straight on bigger waves. Angled take offs can help you position well to stay on the shoulder but on a steeper bigger wave you can get pitched easier that way. hard to say what you were doing wrong without knowing how steep and fast the waves were. but you are right to paddle hard and fast, get in as early as you can, drop in straight and then really crank that bottom turn... might just have been poor closing out conditions that threw you off.

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #129 on: May 02, 2021, 04:22:32 PM »


I do have trouble cutting back on big boards though, anyone have tips?  I'm likely just not leaning into it with my hips enough but I'll take any suggestions.

How big is the board? Longboard, drop that back knee. Mid length, get yr foot right back and stomp on it as you carve. Throw your shoulders into it. Best advice though, get a shorter board.
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

foureyedjim

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #130 on: May 02, 2021, 08:17:31 PM »
Expand Quote


I do have trouble cutting back on big boards though, anyone have tips?  I'm likely just not leaning into it with my hips enough but I'll take any suggestions.
[close]

How big is the board? Longboard, drop that back knee. Mid length, get yr foot right back and stomp on it as you carve. Throw your shoulders into it. Best advice though, get a shorter board.

9'6"...I will try the drop knee but it looks hard.

I do have a mid length but haven't gotten a chance to get it out in the water except on 1-2 ft days.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #131 on: May 03, 2021, 10:19:20 AM »


Yesterday afternoon. Got bigger and glassier after I paddled out. I mostly paddled around for hours but found a few and dodged a few tubes because I was sucking...

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #132 on: May 03, 2021, 12:35:46 PM »
woah

it got really fun here last thursday but I was stuck at work. Friday it was blown out pretty quick. Sat inside all weekend
madness

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #133 on: May 03, 2021, 01:40:58 PM »


Yesterday afternoon. Got bigger and glassier after I paddled out. I mostly paddled around for hours but found a few and dodged a few tubes because I was sucking...

Damn this looks beautiful. This is off the coast of Oregon?

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #134 on: May 03, 2021, 03:51:46 PM »
Yep. Oregon's Malibu.

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #135 on: May 03, 2021, 05:23:11 PM »
How are the crowds surfing around that way?
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #136 on: May 03, 2021, 05:41:39 PM »
Super busy at the handful of reliable spots these days but you can still surf alone if you know where and when to look. Early mornings and late evenings are still pretty chill. The problem is, even though we have a huge and accessible coastline there are very few reliable/ consistent spots. We get a lot of wind and storm swell, where you need headlands, jetties and coves to make sense of the surf. When the storm swell drops and cleans up and the wind goes offshore there are a lot of options but this doesn't happen often enough.

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #137 on: May 03, 2021, 07:22:42 PM »
Coasts like that are so frustrating.
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

jake18

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #138 on: May 03, 2021, 10:50:21 PM »


Yesterday afternoon. Got bigger and glassier after I paddled out. I mostly paddled around for hours but found a few and dodged a few tubes because I was sucking...

Don't surf much, but love reading your posts in this thread. Maybe we'll have to skate one of the parks up here together soon. I like that Nehalem ramp best in the area. Isn't Pacific City getting a new Dreamland park soon?

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #139 on: May 04, 2021, 05:48:26 AM »
PC skatepark opens Memorial weekend. I'll probably avoid opening weekend but down to meet up out there after that some time.

You Portland based @jake18  ?

sketchyrider

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #140 on: May 04, 2021, 05:58:26 AM »
Coasts like that are so frustrating.

anything beats the east coast. we've had seasons where the gulf coast got more action.

jake18

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #141 on: May 04, 2021, 09:31:55 AM »
PC skatepark opens Memorial weekend. I'll probably avoid opening weekend but down to meet up out there after that some time.

You Portland based @jake18  ?

Up near South Bend / Raymond. But I come down your way quite a lot. I'll hit you up sometime in June!

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #142 on: May 04, 2021, 05:54:51 PM »
Squeezed in a dawn patrol this morning as I am on oncall lockdown this weekend. Got to dial in my new twin fin in some great shape waist to shoulder high glassy lefts (backside for me). Super fun, only a handful of people out and I mostly had a good peak to myself. Water is warming up a bit, a grey whale was playing around offshore and I got to tap into the speed and liveliness of a twinny. One of those sessions where everything comes together. Nothing epic but a great morning in the Pacific. Rinsed the piss out of my wetsuit in the river, tuna sandwich on the bluff and beat traffic back to to Val. Skateboard stayed in the trunk for once...

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #143 on: May 07, 2021, 09:36:10 AM »
Nice @Frank and Fred. sounds like an epic day!

I got out 3 times this week so far. The water in SoCal is so warm right now its amazing. Today was low wind and glassy, started to pick up size wise right as I needed to head out unfortunately. Caught some nice rights and feeling more comfortable carving up and down the line. Even got a big frontside turn that sprayed a bit. felt so damn good haha

I just pretend I am skating transition out there

Some dude

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #144 on: May 07, 2021, 01:19:19 PM »
Surfed when I was younger (uncles were big surfers and thought it was fun to throw kid me into the waves)…looking to start again..it’s been years. I’m 5’11”..I’m sure  it possibly matters..but what’s the go to style/size board for re-beginner kooks my size?

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #145 on: May 07, 2021, 02:23:57 PM »
Honestly if I were 're-beginning' at this point I would say to grab a foam board around 8'0. They are made so much nicer nowadays than they used to be. seem pretty affordable brand new too



or just grab anything around 7'6-8. Big enough to be stable/catch waves easily and not as hard to move around as a longboard
« Last Edit: May 08, 2021, 11:10:40 AM by Huell Howser »

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #146 on: May 07, 2021, 02:33:53 PM »
Agreed. There are some good quality and fun foamies these days. Get one over 7' and catch as many waves as you can. Then see what style of surfing you really want to pursue.

I always assumed skateboarders would mostly want to shortboard but Chico and Max Schaff are all about the single fin eggs and hulls. Pretty cool.

Bottom line: Foam is your friend... better to have a board that has too much float than too little.

Some dude

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #147 on: May 07, 2021, 02:40:25 PM »
Honestly if I were 're-beginning' at this point I would say to grab a foam board around 8'0. They are made so much nicer nowadays than they used to be. seem pretty affordable brand new too

https://www.secretspot.co.uk/images/24899-1.jpg

or just grab anything around 7'6-8. Big enough to be stable/catch waves easily and not as hard to move around as a longboard

cool. Thanks for the info.

Some dude

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #148 on: May 07, 2021, 02:58:25 PM »
Agreed. There are some good quality and fun foamies these days. Get one over 7' and catch as many waves as you can. Then see what style of surfing you really want to pursue.

I always assumed skateboarders would mostly want to shortboard but Chico and Max Schaff are all about the single fin eggs and hulls. Pretty cool.

Bottom line: Foam is your friend... better to have a board that has too much float than too little.

this is exactly why I ask. I’ve heard that’s what skateboarders naturally assume, but as far as surfing goes..short boards are actually a little more difficult to learn on. I feel like I’ve heard that before. You work on learning how to ride before getting into short boards..??

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #149 on: May 07, 2021, 03:16:50 PM »
Exactly. Spend some time just catching waves, as many as you can. Get those paddle muscles and pop reflexes feeling good. Then learn to ride the open face and trim down the line. Once you are starting to think about getting some solid turns in, then you can decide longboard or shortboard.

I would avoid low-volume high performance shortboards unless you plan on ripping Indonesia or the North shore... Eggs, fishes, full volume stubbies... will all turn as hard as you can. There are so many ways to make shortboards fun with higher volume these days. Check out some of the shapes Danny Dicola makes for inspiration.