Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 12730 times)

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mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #270 on: September 27, 2021, 07:15:17 AM »
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i went and scoped a few spots around corpus christi/port aransas. you might know more than me if you're an actual texan but i believe christi is both an easier drive (assuming you're coming from austin), and a cleaner beach than the galveston area.

this 2015 article about the scene at bob hall pier is a decent place to start. i had better luck and saw a lot more surfing at some other nearby spots, but i can't pretend to really know the scene:
https://www.surfer.com/features/around-the-bend/
[close]

ayo my hometown is corpus, Bob Hall pier gets reallys good, although it hasn't been as good and has been more fickle last few years. Packery Channel is more consistent and a slower wave. Usually a larger outside that has more longboards and then a dumpier inside that is fun. The crowds are usually bad here. A spot a lot of people sleep on is the seawall, the southside of packery channel over in front of the hotels gets fun. Port Aransas is fun although usually too slow to shortboard properly for me

Almost always better there than galveston. surfside and matagorda get pretty good too but i'd usually rather go to corpus.
living in houston now and the commute to galveston is a nightmare on the highway

Thanks for the tips! I found the currents to be brutal. Iíve never had to paddle so hard to surf 3 foot waves in my life. The only upside is that Iíve also never found duck diving so easy. Most of those waves donít have too much power and arenít too thick, at least compared to a comparable sized wave in the Atlantic or pacific. This is helpful because they come at you *constantly*.

I wasnít gonna name spots since I know some people donít like that... but since you already mentioned a few: I went to bob hall first, and it seemed like the north side of the pier was working better, but the current was so strong eventually I just decided to drift south for a while and catch some lesser waves without as much of a fight. Iím sure that itís all variable according to the insane winds yíall get down there, and changing all the time. North side packery channel was a little better and where I probably had the best luck. Also checked out Horace Caldwell but it didnít really look worth paddling out. Iíll scope out the seawall next time.

Iíve been swimming laps in a gym pool up here in Austin to try and get my shoulders ready for my next trip down there. When you Texas folks show up at other breaks you must be amazed at how much easier it is to stay in position, like taking off the ankle weights or something.

But in more immediate news, Iím going back to NY/NJ to visit family next week and hoping to score some proper tropical system swells. My old home breaks in NJ looked insanely fun on the cams over the weekend and I canít wait to get back out there.

So Iím gonna have to bring boards on an airplane, which Iíve never done before. Anyone have tips?


lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #271 on: September 27, 2021, 09:35:57 AM »
I wasn't going to name the spots...but they are super well known and the crowds here aren't like california.

Plus the terrible reliability of surf here keeps people away.

The short period swells are annoying, less power but constant duck diving etc. First time I went to San Clemente I couldn't believe it. Actual sets coming in, and long lulls.


lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #272 on: September 28, 2021, 06:11:59 AM »
This is North Packery in early June
Going for a front side floater here, this board is a little over volumed but it makes the floaters so fun. In typical fashion I had a killer one right before this and he didn't get a pic and i barely made this weird late one
« Last Edit: September 28, 2021, 06:26:00 PM by lemonchicken91 »

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #273 on: October 02, 2021, 09:15:29 PM »
Love a floater @lemonchicken91 . Seem to be way easier on twin fins for me for some reason.

Just got back from a five day run, camping and surfing mostly solo in a remote part of the PNW. Scored one of my favorite spots three days in a row. It wasn't epic but had some good moments. Got shit smacked out of me going for a decent shore breaky tube. Nice to do nothing but surf and sleep outside for a few days...

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #274 on: October 03, 2021, 07:46:11 AM »
Sorry to share my kook tales when most of you actually shred, but after 3 years of surfing I finally got my leash ripped off me and it def sucked.  Got held down twice in row, for probably only 5-10 seconds each time but it felt longer, just made sure to keep cool and not panic.  Iím an okay swimmer, but damn itís not easy trying to get to your board in a 4/3 and boots after getting worked.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #275 on: October 03, 2021, 06:25:20 PM »
Youíll be right mate
A couple years ago we drove up to nationals and the bro wanted to surf the bar, pumping and messy, so we drove around re parked
I had been up all night on the rack and was legit having a snooze between sets and at some point I went for one and bitched it and full went over the falls it was heinous

Lost the board off that and this old cunt on a longboard said you want to paddle in with me and I said nah all g just swam it but I tell you it was close like I didnít realise at the time but when I stood up on the sand I was fucked and cunts were looking at me all smh

It didnít feel like it but I was easy ten mins off drowning it wears you out bro and you donít even realise

No ego but if I was a tourist I would have drowned offshore that day, 100%

TLDR, donít fucken paddle out on a big day when you been up all night on the bag
listen to cosmic psychos

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #276 on: October 03, 2021, 08:16:57 PM »
Leashes are great but:

-they sometimes break
-they aren't an excuse to ditch your board
-they aren't an excuse to put put yourself into a situation you can't swim out of.

This is more to remind myself than criticize anyone else...

it's sometimes fun to surf without a leash to see how you handle things. Not recommended around other people but give it a go on a mellow day first. Feel the zen.

I don't longboard often but when I do I can never bring myself to put a leash on a log.


matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #277 on: October 03, 2021, 10:15:51 PM »
I rate surfing without a leash I mean I got em but yeah 100 on what you said mate

You way get better without a leash, just it pisses cunts off
listen to cosmic psychos

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #278 on: October 04, 2021, 05:45:52 AM »
had to surf south beach without a leash yesterday because the surf was so full of sargasso. Wearing a leash with that means paddling with an extra 20 pounds strung to your leash. I hate the stuff. No board ditching or loss though, it was small and easily manageable.

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #279 on: October 04, 2021, 06:17:24 AM »
I was running a Twin/Trailer MR set on that lost RNF Redux. So fun to floater on, I don't love twins though, the speed is there but you have to adjust your timing and I don't enjoy that when I get on those dumpier inside sections.

Actually have a sketch story month or so ago.
Storm swell was filling in in Galveston and it was crazy current. Waves messy and chaotic still not huge.
I paddle out next to pier and get pulled under pier.

whatever no biggie. I duck dive a wave as I'm getting to the outside area and come up and cant move...
My leash is wrapped around a football sized chunk of barnacles.

Shit.. Okay Ill pull it off. No Dice.

I'm on the other side of the pier now leash stuck so I rip it off my ankle no big deal.
Then I realize my board will NOT come off the pier. I'm not leaving my board on the pier and I'd rather drown than get rescued.

 So I'm holding my board getting smashed by waves into the pylon somehow avoiding barnacles by putting my arm stiff arm as high as I can reach on the pylon (my fins and board ate most of the damage)
Trying to undo that Velcro part where my leash is on my board felt like an eternity, every time I almost had it I had to secure myself for another wave. Got it and paddled in didn't even catch a wave. My board was all scraped up but I somehow avoided any major barnacle gashes. Shook me for a few weeks.

no matter how experienced you are the ocean will whoop that azz for free. Much shame.

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #280 on: October 04, 2021, 09:37:06 PM »
damn lemon, bad luck/ good instincts

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #281 on: October 05, 2021, 06:34:05 AM »
Leashes are great but:

-they sometimes break
-they aren't an excuse to ditch your board
-they aren't an excuse to put put yourself into a situation you can't swim out of.

This is more to remind myself than criticize anyone else...

it's sometimes fun to surf without a leash to see how you handle things. Not recommended around other people but give it a go on a mellow day first. Feel the zen.

I don't longboard often but when I do I can never bring myself to put a leash on a log.

I have an 11' glider and have been pretty thankful for the leash at some points. I thought it was going to really hurt someone once when i fell and it rocketed straight towards a girls face.  leash stopped it in time though.  my wife has been surfing a lot longer than me though and really only accepts a leash if she is on her shortboard

the surf here in the southeast has been really fun.  been getting out on my 7' single fin egg.  so much fun after a summer of gliding.  I would like to get something the next step down towards shortboard. smaller bonzer or something

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #282 on: October 05, 2021, 07:13:04 PM »
Just an opinion but I did't like the Bonzers I tried as grovellers. They do better with some power. I like wide tailed quads for 'step-downs.'

I'm sure The Campbell Bros can make boards for small waves but something about a big center fin feels like an anchor in weak surf. Quads, Twins free things up a bit and keep your turns spicy.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #283 on: October 13, 2021, 03:15:40 PM »
just wanted to post up in here and say that I despise rich assholes with hydrofoils and most SUP peeps(stand up paddle boarders)

Some SUP people are older and this is their way of staying active and I can respect that as long as they're respectful and not trying to snake every wave

Also I ordered a midlength 7'1 single fin egg. It should be finished in about two months, can't wait for it

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #284 on: October 13, 2021, 03:22:35 PM »
You are correct on all fronts. Single fins can be tough to master properly but on the right wave that allows you to plan out some turns they feel great. Getting a nice Greenough 4A flex fin for your board?

I've been stuck on my 7'6" Twin fin... its just cheating at this point. Hoping to skip work next week for a shortboard mission...

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #285 on: October 13, 2021, 03:37:41 PM »
^this is what I have been told by friends. I am going to have to be patient with this board and take the time to really understand it

I haven't decided on a fin - is the Greenough something that you'd recommend? TBH my knowledge on fins isn't that great. I need to do more research. I was lowkey banking on whatever the shaper recommended haha

7'6 twin fin sounds so fun. My buddy has a twin fin in a similar size and I have had a blast anytime I have caught a wave on it.

We had an oil spill out here in Southern California so I haven't been out in almost two weeks. I think imma go out this weekend though
« Last Edit: October 13, 2021, 04:16:44 PM by Huell Howser »

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #286 on: October 14, 2021, 07:12:09 AM »
^this is what I have been told by friends. I am going to have to be patient with this board and take the time to really understand it

I haven't decided on a fin - is the Greenough something that you'd recommend? TBH my knowledge on fins isn't that great. I need to do more research. I was lowkey banking on whatever the shaper recommended haha

7'6 twin fin sounds so fun. My buddy has a twin fin in a similar size and I have had a blast anytime I have caught a wave on it.

We had an oil spill out here in Southern California so I haven't been out in almost two weeks. I think imma go out this weekend though

I really like the Greenough fins.  I have a 8" Greenough on my 7' egg and it is really fun, I was a little unsure of the size at first but it is what the shaper ordered for it so i thought I would see.  holds the board solidly.  I tried a smaller Greenough in it but the board felt too loose and it  seemed harder to generate power

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #287 on: October 14, 2021, 07:14:38 AM »
Just an opinion but I did't like the Bonzers I tried as grovellers. They do better with some power. I like wide tailed quads for 'step-downs.'

I'm sure The Campbell Bros can make boards for small waves but something about a big center fin feels like an anchor in weak surf. Quads, Twins free things up a bit and keep your turns spicy.

Ok, I will keep that in mind.  my friend has a Campbell brothers I will ask him about.  I thought about going mini simmons as an alternative.  planing hull seems fun.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #288 on: October 14, 2021, 10:07:00 AM »
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^this is what I have been told by friends. I am going to have to be patient with this board and take the time to really understand it

I haven't decided on a fin - is the Greenough something that you'd recommend? TBH my knowledge on fins isn't that great. I need to do more research. I was lowkey banking on whatever the shaper recommended haha

7'6 twin fin sounds so fun. My buddy has a twin fin in a similar size and I have had a blast anytime I have caught a wave on it.

We had an oil spill out here in Southern California so I haven't been out in almost two weeks. I think imma go out this weekend though
[close]

I really like the Greenough fins.  I have a 8" Greenough on my 7' egg and it is really fun, I was a little unsure of the size at first but it is what the shaper ordered for it so i thought I would see.  holds the board solidly.  I tried a smaller Greenough in it but the board felt too loose and it  seemed harder to generate power

Nice, sounds like mine is going to be a super similar setup!

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #289 on: October 14, 2021, 10:18:41 AM »
I also use an 8" Greenough Flex 4A in my 7'2" egg (kind of  like the Devon Howard model) and it seems like the right amount of fin for that length but really I prefer it as a 2+1. Way easier to surf.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2021, 11:09:21 AM by Frank and Fred »

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #290 on: October 14, 2021, 12:59:00 PM »
Just got back from 2 weeks in NY and NJ.

Caught hurricane Sam in Rockaway which was pretty darn bad. There was so much hype for such a choppy mess, plus it happened over a weekend so the crowds were horrific. I saw someone lay hands on a SUPer who was being a danger to himself and others.

Managed to catch some pretty good sessions once I left NYC and got to Jersey. There were times when I had a peak to myself on clean little 3ft days, perfect for just cruising down the line on my new mini Simmons, going over the shoulder, paddling back out, and instantly getting another. Conditions that would have been a crowd nightmare under other circumstances, but not down the shore once tourists have left.

Now back to watching the Gulf of Mexico forecasts to see if I can manage to score down there sometime.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #291 on: October 14, 2021, 02:00:09 PM »
Can't ask for more than some solo clean shoulder high peelers. Sounds fun. @mj23

Its officially La Nina which typically means pretty crappy surf for Northern Oregon with only a limited spot or two offering any consistency.

Hopefully I can get some missions North and South, on the go but that's hard in shitty weather.