Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 8438 times)

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Baron Samedi

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #30 on: August 30, 2014, 12:23:43 PM »
I grew up and still live in a surf mecca but never got into surfing because growing up surfers were the dumbest, smuggest, shittiest people I've ever met. Nowadays I have plenty of good friends who surf, but the fact remains there are grown-ass men who stay around here and retain the same exact mentality as those shitty surfer kids I ran across growing up. If you're not from here and you want to come surf anywhere besides the beginner spots, get ready for some dude speaking some kind of fucked up pigeon creole dialect to talk shit, fuck with your car, and try to fight you.
« Last Edit: August 30, 2014, 12:27:19 PM by Baron Samedi »

givecigstosurfgroms

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #31 on: August 30, 2014, 03:29:51 PM »
    gnarly crowds ...You're out floating in water, feet not touching the ground and you're not near land, so you're just a floating ego out there.   If there's negativity you can turn it around (by out thinking people,figuring out the current and being at least somewhat aggresive) or you can also get really affected in a bad way and get bummed and just think "fuck i should have just went skating today this sucks shit!" 
"I just care about the river, I dont care about your back"

Dad you're embarrassing me

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #32 on: April 08, 2018, 05:14:56 PM »
Bumping this rather than start a new one. I have surfed my whole life, but I stopped surfing regularly about 3 years ago coz I was bummed on the crowds and have too much other shit going on to give the waves the priority. Recently Iíve been getting back on the board, and as Iíve noticed there is a lot of other Aussies on here these days I figured thereíd be some other surfers on here (surfing being our national past time and all). Where ya at?

Francis Xavier

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #33 on: April 08, 2018, 10:59:59 PM »
Last time I surfed the Northside of the HB pier I saw Ed lurking about shooting photos haha. I don't get to paddle out as much as I want to,but I'm working on it. It's fun,but yeah I used to really not like surfers,especially in high school with only the privileged kids surfing a lot.

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #34 on: April 09, 2018, 07:04:59 AM »
I have only been surfing for a few years.  looking forward to getting out of the wetsuit for summer water temps.  Waves here in the southeast are inconsistent but can be fun.  a lot of longboarding for me

Dad you're embarrassing me

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #35 on: April 09, 2018, 07:50:07 PM »
Last time I surfed the Northside of the HB pier I saw Ed lurking about shooting photos haha. I don't get to paddle out as much as I want to,but I'm working on it. It's fun,but yeah I used to really not like surfers,especially in high school with only the privileged kids surfing a lot.

I still donít like surfers, they are the worst! The problem where I live is that surfers are also usually also skaters, and they bring their aggro jock locals only vibe to the skatepark.

Francis Xavier

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #36 on: April 09, 2018, 09:57:15 PM »
Expand Quote
Last time I surfed the Northside of the HB pier I saw Ed lurking about shooting photos haha. I don't get to paddle out as much as I want to,but I'm working on it. It's fun,but yeah I used to really not like surfers,especially in high school with only the privileged kids surfing a lot.
[close]

I still donít like surfers, they are the worst! The problem where I live is that surfers are also usually also skaters, and they bring their aggro jock locals only vibe to the skatepark.
I can understand localism at a surf spot,it's the same at a skate spot. At a skatepark it is the worst though and really dumb.

Dad you're embarrassing me

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #37 on: April 10, 2018, 12:19:28 AM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Last time I surfed the Northside of the HB pier I saw Ed lurking about shooting photos haha. I don't get to paddle out as much as I want to,but I'm working on it. It's fun,but yeah I used to really not like surfers,especially in high school with only the privileged kids surfing a lot.
[close]

I still donít like surfers, they are the worst! The problem where I live is that surfers are also usually also skaters, and they bring their aggro jock locals only vibe to the skatepark.
[close]
I can understand localism at a surf spot,it's the same at a skate spot. At a skatepark it is the worst though and really dumb.

I live in Sydney, so I see localism as a bit of a moot point when 5 million people live within driving distance to your beach! Even in rural areas I see localism as being self defeating, as tourism is often the backbone for the local economy: People coming to surf your break are essentially putting food on your table. And yeah, localism at the skatepark is ridiculous, I think these guys just canít turn it off!

 I got some good waves to myself in the national park today. I still love surfing haha

somethingmustbreaknow

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #38 on: April 10, 2018, 02:05:13 AM »
drop in, smack the lip - HUABAAAH!

Jumping Beans

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #39 on: March 12, 2021, 04:42:49 PM »
Alright, so I know this board is the surfing equivalent of a beginner complete from Zumiez.. but Iím still a kook and itís a huge upgrade from the 7í10 Bic tank I just sold.  Torq Mod Fun V+, 7í4 x 22 x 3 - 56L. 



Only took it out once so far, and losing that length/width is going to take some adjusting to.  Itís got a thruster fin setup and V-shaped concave under the tail section, which is def less stable than the flat bottom single fin I just came from.  Hoping I can get comfortable on it quick enough and start sticking some drops and sharpening my turns.

Post a stick.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #40 on: March 13, 2021, 05:32:09 PM »
Brisbane, man I am still a couple months off getting my licence back, got in the car a couple times with mates and got a lift but itís been a while honestly. Usually would go to sunrise, sunshine or tea trees, occasionally north shore and up rainbow ways

And for south I like it past tweed, Yamba, cabbas sort of way is nice but I would usually go north over south

All my shits been in storage since I lost licence and moved so no pics unfortunately
listen to cosmic psychos

L33Tg33k

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #41 on: March 13, 2021, 08:02:48 PM »
All of my friends have gotten into surfing in the last year or two. It sucks because I can't swim and I feel myself being left behind. I can't relate to them on a new big segment of their lives. The most I can do is listen and learn about it, but I'll never be a part of it. :'(
Before you say the music sucked, have you considered shutting the fuck up?

Jumping Beans

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #42 on: March 13, 2021, 09:04:05 PM »
For what itís worth, I started 2 years ago at 32 and didnít go past chest deep for my first summer.  Basically just rode broken waves in on my stomach, then knees, then eventually got to my feet.  I canít imagine what learning to swim as an adult would be like, but if you can put embarrassment aside, I fully believe you have the physical and mental ability to pick up swimming/surfing if you wanted to.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #43 on: March 14, 2021, 12:40:51 AM »
Why donít you just get swimming lessons at a pool man? I bet itís not even expensive, Iím not having a go at you but I reckon itís real important to at least be able to tread water. Or just YouTube it and go to the shallow end of a pool and have a go at it

Could come in real fucken handy one day, you just never know bro

People will naturally float, so from what I understand people must just panic and thrash around and shit and drown that way. I reckon if you went to a shallow pool and just tried to work it out youíd be ok
Literally all you have to do is pretend to ride a bicycle with your legs and you just stabilise yourself with your arms even the most unfit person can do that for a long ass time

I have no idea if you are on the heavier side or not but fat is less dense than water same deal how cooking fat sits above water so a sufficiently large person should be able to lie on their back and ride high, if you will
listen to cosmic psychos

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #44 on: March 20, 2021, 06:07:48 PM »
I taught swimming lessons for almost a decade when I was younger and I definitely taught a decent amount of adult non-swimmers. It was weird being a 16 year old stoner and teaching middle aged people with lifelong fear of the water... but we got most of them swimming at least 25 yards (one competition sized pool length) by the end of their first ten week session. Now I realize thatís a far cry from surfing waves but itís definitely a great life skill and helps open up a lot of fun activities from water parks to boogie boarding and kayaking etc.

On the subject of lessons, Iím 33, and Iíve been surfing casually since I was a teenager. Surfed more regularly for about 8 years now. Iím still pretty darn bad and Iím starting to think itís time I shell out for a few surfing lessons.

I can ride tons of whitewater, usually pop up on at least a few unbroken waves each session, but only very occasionally manage to ride down the line. I feel like I should be able to trim or bottom turn to head down the line more regularly by now? If I had more friends that surfed maybe I would pick up tips from them.

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #45 on: March 20, 2021, 06:42:48 PM »
may have mentioned imn aa river surfing, lots of ice coming down all winter but especially now Had 3 fins knocked of so far this winter, had to epoxy the box back in once, feels kind of fun although annoying, like breaking your board sometimes.

rawr1922

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #46 on: March 20, 2021, 08:45:15 PM »
My $0.02, surfing all about skating on water. All about style like our other craft. Less is more. Always about style

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #47 on: March 24, 2021, 08:37:12 AM »
Does anyone know of a surfing forum that has a similar vibe to slap? Iíve poked around a little and a lot of them seem super lame, plus the surfer.com forum has gigantic ads that make mobile usage basically impossible.

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #48 on: March 24, 2021, 01:49:00 PM »
All of my friends have gotten into surfing in the last year or two. It sucks because I can't swim and I feel myself being left behind. I can't relate to them on a new big segment of their lives. The most I can do is listen and learn about it, but I'll never be a part of it. :'(

What gives? How come you can't learn to swim? My apologies if you have some sort of debilitating condition (although flipper arms in this context might actually help? bad joke). Seriously, most people are not strong swimmer's, but it isn't that hard to learn if you can overcome the mental hurdle. If you go to the local pool a couple times a week, take some lessons, it'll change your life. You can do it!

Jumping Beans

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #49 on: March 24, 2021, 05:48:15 PM »
Does anyone know of a surfing forum that has a similar vibe to slap? Iíve poked around a little and a lot of them seem super lame, plus the surfer.com forum has gigantic ads that make mobile usage basically impossible.
r/surfing has similar levels of shit talk and gear discussion, but I understand if itís not your vibe.  Havenít looked at any others but thatís mostly because Iím not overly interested in surf pros or videos.

After a handful of shitty sessions and wondering if I made a big mistake sizing down, the conditions were finally on point today and I caught the best rides of my life so far.  Can finally pull hard turns up and down the face as opposed to my previous drawn out carves.  Feels amazing, like learning a new skate trick, which I havenít done in a very long time.

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #50 on: March 25, 2021, 03:24:22 AM »
Surfing is so much fun.  i got a 11' glider and it makes the small days here on the east coast so much better.  the speed it gathers and the ease of paddling are great.  I think I can pretty much reduce down to it and a 7' egg. 

trash

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #51 on: March 25, 2021, 09:43:22 AM »
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #52 on: March 25, 2021, 07:19:27 PM »
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
if you're a strong swimmer and an experienced skater you can probably figure out the basics in a week, especially if you watch some youtube videos beforehand. just don't underestimate the upper body strength required. i have seen more than one skate friend get super discouraged because they werent physically prepared for how much energy theyd need to put in paddling. one of them also got motion sickness from the water after 30min or so, which was kinda funny to me but i guess makes sense if you don't spend a ton of time in the water. i'm still not very good but i'm totally self taught so it's definitely possible. if you aren't already a big upper body strength person, you could start training by swimming laps or hitting some extra shoulder workouts.

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #53 on: March 26, 2021, 02:12:16 AM »
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.

the water should be high 60s by then.  probably won't need a wetsuit.

pugmaster

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #54 on: March 26, 2021, 07:51:11 PM »
Expand Quote
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
[close]

the water should be high 60s by then.  probably won't need a wetsuit.

My favorite part of surfing is that early morning, barely making it from the car to the water peeing in the wetsuit vibe
I like my women the same way I like my personified cups of coffee...black...strong...and proud.

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cucktard

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #55 on: March 27, 2021, 03:08:35 AM »
Expand Quote
I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
[close]
if you're a strong swimmer and an experienced skater you can probably figure out the basics in a week, especially if you watch some youtube videos beforehand. just don't underestimate the upper body strength required. i have seen more than one skate friend get super discouraged because they werent physically prepared for how much energy theyd need to put in paddling. one of them also got motion sickness from the water after 30min or so, which was kinda funny to me but i guess makes sense if you don't spend a ton of time in the water. i'm still not very good but i'm totally self taught so it's definitely possible. if you aren't already a big upper body strength person, you could start training by swimming laps or hitting some extra shoulder workouts.

My first time surfing was 16 years old, having a surf instructor push me onto a wave on a huge longboard as it went past. Not much problem standing up, but couldn’t catch a wave on my own after that. 

Had a couple more tries at it as an adult in marginal conditions, thinking it would be a breeze from all my skating and snowboarding. Fact is, unlike snowboarding and skating where you are almost always on the board, actual board riding is 5% of the surfing experience. Couldn’t get it and spent most of my time wearing my arms out and getting a bad sunburn.

Finally, went to my sister’s wedding in Hawaii about 8 years ago for 1 week, and my brother and I agreed to rent boards and go every day. So I was a lot less cocky this time and little buy little I learned the basics.

1- sit on the beach and see where the breaks are, and where to go to line up for them.

2- learning to get out past the breaks. I couldn’t duck dive with the 7-footer I had, but could turtle.

3- lining up and watching for your turn, learning the etiquette.

4- watching how to catch the wave. I would paddle like made for a wave and still somehow missed them. Finally by the end of the trip I was watching the other guys catch a wave in 4 smooth strokes, and I learned to do it in 6.

5- once caught and up, learning speed. A kind local in the line-up gave me the crucial info that forward on the board is go, in the rear is slow down.

After putting that all together on my last wave of the trip I caught a nice 20-second wave into shore

It’s been a while, and since I live in the mountains, I try to get out powder surfing on bindingless snowboards as much as I can.
Iím trying to be every momís favorite skaterí-&&

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botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #56 on: March 27, 2021, 12:40:20 PM »
busted my hand/wrist and the levels are peaking right now, so I'm going go to tomorrow and stand on the shore drinking coffee talking shit to anyone who gets too close. I'll be  the live version of Slap over there.

Wheelbyte

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #57 on: March 29, 2021, 06:41:57 AM »
Billy Kempers rapid fire all time year which finished with the session of a lifetime and then extreme pain

 https://youtu.be/gGGMvPtjtZo

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #58 on: March 29, 2021, 08:45:20 AM »
missed good surf this weekend to go to a friend's wedding.
Checking Instagram was a mistake
Any Texas surfers on here?

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #59 on: March 29, 2021, 09:24:39 AM »
missed good surf this weekend to go to a friend's wedding.
Checking Instagram was a mistake
Any Texas surfers on here?
Iím in LA right now but I work remotely for a job in Austin. So I might be a TX surfer in a few months if I keep working for them IRL.

Whatís the TX/Austin surfing experience like? Seems like I could drive 3 hours to a few decent spots on the gulf. The ďsurf ranchĒ wave pool place closer to Austin grosses me out since they had some sort of brain eating amoeba kill a guy just a few years back. Idk, is it worth it or should I just save surfing for my trips back to visit family on the coasts?