Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 20185 times)

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Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #480 on: August 08, 2022, 10:13:00 AM »
@botefdunn damn, that's sad to hear. just checked some clips as well and that looks like it could definitely get intense at times. that current looks so strong. wow

@Frank and Fred hope you score some waves this week!

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #481 on: August 10, 2022, 08:18:35 AM »
Well, turned out pretty fun. Got my new Rocket Wide out in some very glassy conditions. Not much power but it was about waist to shoulder high. backing off a little on the peak but once up and running there was shape and room enough for some turns. I had the Captain Fin Co Dane set finned up. Two big sides fins a nd small rear. Pretty stoked on one particular mid face forehand slash I did. Fun day and even got a little Oregon sunburn. Can't wait to play around with this board some more.

homicidalpsychojunglecat

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #482 on: August 11, 2022, 11:54:33 PM »
Back on the board in NZ after busting my shoulder and then getting hammered by Covid. We've just had a run of small 2ft days for the past week and it's been great for easing back into it. Been on my Christenson fish mainly, great boards and so fast it's unreal.  Hope everyone's getting waves.

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #483 on: August 15, 2022, 06:05:27 AM »
drove from Miami to Ocean City, NJ last week to visit my parents and was finally able to catch a few small waves. What wasn't expected was the 55ļ water! That upwelling really wasn't too fun. I wear a wetsuit barely a handful of times each year but never in August.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #484 on: August 18, 2022, 07:58:26 PM »
I think things are turning for the better up here. Wind is easing up, swell bumping up a tad...

Two board session today... Took the twin fin out at low tide and then the groveler quad as it pushed in. Glassy and weak but fun on the right board. crowded but lots to go around... managed a fun backhand floater or two on my super wide groveler.... always feels good... like coming out of long slappy...

didn't skate after surfing so it must have been a passable session.

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #485 on: September 05, 2022, 11:06:24 AM »
Anyone scoring lately?  After checking my usual spots and having no luck, I finally worked up the courage to try out another break near me that Iíve been too intimidated to surf until today. 

For some reason I always built it up my head as the ďin crowd/rippers onlyĒ spot.  Heard stories about people getting chewed out/threatened. Just figured Iíd immediately get told to get lost because of my pop-out board or whatever.  But I went out regardless, just a few other guys out there, I got a couple solid rides in and didnít piss anyone off.  So Iím feeling pretty hyped.

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #486 on: September 05, 2022, 12:28:37 PM »
Thinking of heading to Maine this week to check out some spots. Any info would be appreciated on current conditions or just generally, since I've never been. Also gonna check some skate spots, anyone who wants to roll hmu!

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #487 on: September 06, 2022, 10:45:06 AM »
Anyone scoring lately?  After checking my usual spots and having no luck, I finally worked up the courage to try out another break near me that Iíve been too intimidated to surf until today. 

For some reason I always built it up my head as the ďin crowd/rippers onlyĒ spot.  Heard stories about people getting chewed out/threatened. Just figured Iíd immediately get told to get lost because of my pop-out board or whatever.  But I went out regardless, just a few other guys out there, I got a couple solid rides in and didnít piss anyone off.  So Iím feeling pretty hyped.
Love when that happens. Sometimes you just manage to show up when none of the self appointed regulators are around. Also lots of spots just arenít as rough as they used to be.

Havenít had any swell worth noting in weeks and weeks here in the northeast but our first proper fall season swell should be coming in a day or two. The surf camps are closing down, the ticket-checkers are done, and the waters still warm. Im hyped

Willie

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #488 on: September 06, 2022, 12:34:09 PM »
Tried surfing for the first time last week at 46.

Had spent a week at the beach in NJ and did a lot of boogie boarding with my kids. On the last day the waves picked up to around 3-4í so I wanted to try taking a lesson but they were all booked up. Ended up just renting a board to try and figure it out. They told me to try a 10í board.

The waves were breaking in two places and initially I tried to get the bigger ones that broke farther out. It was very choppy though and the waves were often coming in doubles. I was trying to paddle under them but was getting pushed back a lot. Once I got out where they were breaking I found it difficult to sight the wave then turn around and paddle in. The first two waves I tried to catch I dug the nose of my board into and flipped over. After that I figured I had to be farther back on my board but at that point I was fucking GASSED so I went back to the waist deep water where the little ones were breaking.

Stood up on my 2nd one of the little waves and most of the ones I caught after that but it wasnít pretty. Honestly, with my shitty back and lack of flexibility it takes me 3 seconds to get up from prone on solid ground so I donít think a quick pop-up is going to happen anytime soon.

At some point a dipshit mom decided to take her toddler wading at the unguarded surf school beach and as Iím trying to stand up realize Iím literally going to kill a child so I get down and try to turn the board but I fall behind the board and the wave drives my ribs into it. Shit still hurts.

It was fun. Would do again but I wasnít an instant convert or anything and am probably just as happy boogie boarding (I actually got tubed on a long reverse breaking wave the day before and that was great).

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #489 on: September 06, 2022, 04:52:19 PM »
Thatís sick dude!  I def wasnít standing up first day so it sounds like the boogie boarding gave you some transferable skills.

Speaking of upcoming swells, look at this weekendís fucking forecast;



I feel like I could handle the lower end of these waves and have a blast.. but thereís no way the crowds arenít going to be insane, both in size and intensity levels.  Hopefully I can show up at the right time and place to get some in. 

It trips me out how we always have a flat and inconsistent spring/summer, and Iíll hardly see any locals out.. but when the swell hits thereís a million gnarly ones that come out of the woodwork.  Like how did you all become and stay so good when the conditions suck 95% of the year?

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #490 on: September 06, 2022, 08:24:43 PM »
I always wonder about that too. Iím out trying to keep what modest ability I have every chance I get and when itís small thereís almost no one around. Then conditions get decent and all these rippers appear, some of whom are like a decade older than me and look kind of overweight but they still have the muscle memory to surf better than I probably ever will.

I guess I figure they put a lot more time in when they were young than I did. I only surfed when it was warm enough to go out in trunks most of my childhood, which is just a few months here in the northeast. I didnít even own a wetsuit until I was like 20. If I had any money to blow in the winter I would go snowboarding, which has a much more forgiving learning curve. Kinda wish I had put more time in surfing as a kid but whatever, you canít do everything.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #491 on: September 07, 2022, 11:24:44 AM »
@Coastal Fever @mj23

although he seems like a dick, joel tudor posts some choice memes and one recently was a starter pack of 'surfers that only paddle out during hurricanes' and it was a hodgepodge of sublime shirts, yellow sun bathed skinny/pointy shorboards covered in dirty old wax, long boardshorts that go past the knees etc. hahah

wish i could find it to share
« Last Edit: September 08, 2022, 08:35:40 AM by Huell Howser »

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #492 on: September 07, 2022, 01:54:12 PM »
Funny, Iíve heard multiple younger pro surfers in interviews recently taking about how much theyíve been loving late 90s/early 00s footage with long-ass trunks. So get ready for the return of the 21Ē board short I guess. Much like gigantic pants I look back at the oversized trunks I wore as a kid and all I can think about is the inconvenience of all that extra fabric. Kinda weird that the long boardshort trend hasnít matched up with the baggy pants trend now that I think about it.

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #493 on: September 08, 2022, 05:26:25 AM »
Looking forward to all the 18" boardshorts going on sale when that inevitably happens. I've been already seeing more 20" shorts compared to years past.

Looks like upcoast from me has already had a few days of waves and should continue till midweek next week, so Im finally going to paddle out after a month almost.

It's a shame Im not finished with the new board build though because I think it would be a perfect board for some 3'-4'+ waves. It's another 5'7" round tail twin plus trailer but with the fin set in between thruster and twin. I've been liking riding the MR fin template on my thrusters, and after the rnf replica I made I figured moving it in between will be a good feeling. The rails are slimmed down. The rocker punched up in the tail and flattened a little up front. It's got a 3.75" nose rocker and a 2.75" tail in a barely staged almost continuous curve. The tail is foiled down a lot but the nose has a barely-there beak. Contours of the bottom are a rolled nose with a subtle single concave ending in a spiral vee out the tail. I'm hoping that even though it's an eps board, the contours will allow for it to do well in the bigger tropi-chop we get sporadically.

Just glassed the bottom last night and will be mixing pigment tonight for (hopefully) an olive green with chartreuse swirl for the top of the board.

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #494 on: September 08, 2022, 08:50:19 AM »
Funny, Iíve heard multiple younger pro surfers in interviews recently taking about how much theyíve been loving late 90s/early 00s footage with long-ass trunks. So get ready for the return of the 21Ē board short I guess. Much like gigantic pants I look back at the oversized trunks I wore as a kid and all I can think about is the inconvenience of all that extra fabric. Kinda weird that the long boardshort trend hasnít matched up with the baggy pants trend now that I think about it.

This IG page has tons of sick 90s/2000s footage on longer boards
https://www.instagram.com/p/CfsAEE6DZXI/

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #495 on: September 14, 2022, 08:28:07 AM »
anyone on the east coast get some yesterday? Waves were so good. Mullet run isn't fun though, it keeps me distracted.

rocklobster

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #496 on: September 14, 2022, 09:09:24 AM »
Just got back from Bali on a family trip and did a couple of surf sessions at a beach break (Kuta) since it's been 3 years since I last surfed. It was a blast, the missus, brother and sister all did a few sessions and loved it, even brought their kids into the water to catch some white waves. Caught the bug now, planning my next surf trip to a camp to spend a week there to get some proper coaching.

Any recommendations for blogs or websites that provide good instructions and strength / conditioning tips? I visited r/surfing a few times but I'm too new to know if its as bad as r/skateboarding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ci3POnDNyS8
Decided to watch some surf videos for a change during lunch, no idea what I'm watching yet but it's still amazing to watch pro read the waves and be able to feel and stay in the power of the waves.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #497 on: September 14, 2022, 10:57:44 AM »
@rocklobster wow, a Bali trip sounds amazing. That's sick

yes r/surfing is just as bad as r/skateboarding imo... haha

this guy is a bit cringy but he does actually seem to have some good instructional vids and some strength/conditioning stuff:
https://www.youtube.com/c/KalesBroccoli

as far as vids - coming from a way heavier skating background anything by thomas campbell is perfect to me. you might feel the same way
https://youtu.be/1qIheFdrdp8
https://youtu.be/1zMZy3COVZs

and then for something a lil more contemporary this is rad:
https://youtu.be/15VU_mbcrB0

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #498 on: September 14, 2022, 04:32:49 PM »
Went down to Maine for a few days, hit up York and Ogunquit beach. Waves were small but it was fun being in the Atlantic!

rocklobster

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #499 on: September 14, 2022, 06:46:15 PM »
@rocklobster wow, a Bali trip sounds amazing. That's sick

yes r/surfing is just as bad as r/skateboarding imo... haha

this guy is a bit cringy but he does actually seem to have some good instructional vids and some strength/conditioning stuff:
https://www.youtube.com/c/KalesBroccoli


As long as you aren't putting me on some Braille level shit I'm fine.

I've got loads of time between surf trips and wanted to do more strength and conditioning to stay in shape for surfing, even though the best exercise for surfing is more surfing. I have the endurance to keep paddling but I lack the explosive power needed for steeper waves. If anyone has recommendations for that I'd much appreciate that.

I got a lap pool nearby, thought some laps on the regular would be helpful.

Also, how does the surf world view surf camps? Does the surf community feel like its commercial selling out and the best way is to keep getting served on the waves - kind of like skateboarding?

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #500 on: September 15, 2022, 04:56:13 AM »
anyone on the east coast get some yesterday? Waves were so good. Mullet run isn't fun though, it keeps me distracted.
Man it looked really good but I blew it, when skating all day instead because I thought the swell would stick around. Wrong! There are still some traces but the winds are on it and itís been raining. Whoops.

Iím going to the Silicon Valley area for work next week tho and it seems like everywhere from Santa Cruz to SF is getting waves for days atm. Definitely plan to bring a wetsuit, debating whether I want to lug a board. Board on the plane is a pain but so is renting. And then if Iím on a rental the nasty SC tweaker locs will probably all want to burn me. Decisions decisionsÖ

shpongle

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #501 on: September 15, 2022, 06:52:31 AM »
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CiXvP5nDnGv/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Hate self promotion. Anyways heres a little clip i got in oceanside at the pier. Fun south swells lately.

dudeonthecouch

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #502 on: September 15, 2022, 07:56:48 AM »
im a little late in the season but if there are any SLAP PALS in NYC that go out surfing and wouldnt mind letting me tag along (still fairly new to surfing) would be much appreciated
"yall act like abusin' women is so bad."
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lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #503 on: September 15, 2022, 08:32:19 AM »
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CiXvP5nDnGv/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Hate self promotion. Anyways heres a little clip i got in oceanside at the pier. Fun south swells lately.

looking good! Smooth off the bottom and on the top.

You could push that tail a little more on the first hit but it looked like one of those where you kinda get hung up and re enter!
Smooth operator

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #504 on: September 15, 2022, 11:05:28 AM »
im a little late in the season but if there are any SLAP PALS in NYC that go out surfing and wouldnt mind letting me tag along (still fairly new to surfing) would be much appreciated
If you see me out there say hi, I look like everyone else in a black wetsuit  ;D

dudeonthecouch

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #505 on: September 15, 2022, 12:36:47 PM »
Expand Quote
im a little late in the season but if there are any SLAP PALS in NYC that go out surfing and wouldnt mind letting me tag along (still fairly new to surfing) would be much appreciated
[close]
If you see me out there say hi, I look like everyone else in a black wetsuit  ;D
got a good chuckle at this
"yall act like abusin' women is so bad."
- Crailtap

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #506 on: September 16, 2022, 10:48:39 AM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
im a little late in the season but if there are any SLAP PALS in NYC that go out surfing and wouldnt mind letting me tag along (still fairly new to surfing) would be much appreciated
[close]
If you see me out there say hi, I look like everyone else in a black wetsuit  ;D
[close]
got a good chuckle at this

Iím glad! After I posted I was slightly worried I might have seemed like a dick. Shoot me a PM when youíre heading out sometime, maybe we can link up

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #507 on: September 17, 2022, 09:10:24 AM »
Drove 2,400 miles from Portland to Baja and back chasing south swells and hurricane Kay. major score. Probably a bit too much driving for 10 days though...

homicidalpsychojunglecat

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #508 on: September 19, 2022, 04:59:50 AM »
Expand Quote
@rocklobster wow, a Bali trip sounds amazing. That's sick

yes r/surfing is just as bad as r/skateboarding imo... haha

this guy is a bit cringy but he does actually seem to have some good instructional vids and some strength/conditioning stuff:
https://www.youtube.com/c/KalesBroccoli

[close]

As long as you aren't putting me on some Braille level shit I'm fine.

I've got loads of time between surf trips and wanted to do more strength and conditioning to stay in shape for surfing, even though the best exercise for surfing is more surfing. I have the endurance to keep paddling but I lack the explosive power needed for steeper waves. If anyone has recommendations for that I'd much appreciate that.

I got a lap pool nearby, thought some laps on the regular would be helpful.

Also, how does the surf world view surf camps? Does the surf community feel like its commercial selling out and the best way is to keep getting served on the waves - kind of like skateboarding?

Honestly when there's no surf around I just swim, intersperse regular laps with some sprint laps for the explosive stuff, and do shoulder raises with some weights. Other than that and core exercise if you're into it, lying on your stomach and doing leg/arm raises/supermans is amazing for avoiding a sore back after hours of paddling.

In other surf-related things I've just bought a step up. 6 3, 19 1/2 and something else by 33 litres. Double glassed to last. Now for some solid waves that I don't feel like I'm going to die on to try it out.

Hope everyone is scoring.

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #509 on: September 19, 2022, 06:12:23 AM »
Finished up a 5'6" EPS/Epoxy round tail twin plus trailer. Final sanding was yesterday morning. It's 5'6" x 19 3/4" x 2 5/16". Nose rocker is somewhat low at only 4" but the tail rocker is somewhat high at 2 3/4". Fin spread for a twin is a little big, and sort of close to a thruster. I did thins because I've been having fun riding thrusters as twin + trailer setups and I thought that with this spread and the rocker it would broaden the boards range. It's not a groveler at all despite the fuller outline. The bottom contours are real subtle with a rolled nose into a real shallow concave from the front foot until the small double concave begins just in front of the fins and ends in a spiral vee out the tail. The contours could be considered almost flat, and this is for the purpose of riding faster waves, and potentially hollow ones is why I made the tail rocker high. Rocker is loosely based on what Stretch has to say about rocker.