Surfing

[RENTSTRIKE]

anyone got opinions on wavestorms? getting a good legitimate surfboard is so cost prohibitive and probably the main reason i haven't switched from bodyboarding to real surfing yet.

At this point, they seem to be the go-to beginner board (at least on the east coast) - I bought two of the Gerry Lopez softtops for that they sell at Costco for like $150 two summers back from someone who seemed to be selling them under the table on craigslist - one for a friend, and one that I got for my sister/to catch odds jobs teaching few lessons in the summertime. I can't say for sure, but they seem to be the same material/design/quality as the wave storms I've seen on the beach and in the water for a few years now. The soft top adds buoyancy and can help make the bumps and little slams that come with learning to surf a lot easier (especially falling on on the board and getting knocked around by waves the first few times you try to paddle out. That said, they seem to be of a markedly lower quality than a lot of other soft tops on the market. Mine's only been in the water 10-15 times at this point and is delaminated on the rails and the deck is covered in dents (to be expected on a board that's getting a lot of use, but these seemed excessive).

I'd recommend getting one if you're looking for something cheap to mess around on for a limited amount of time, but would probably advise getting a used soft top from a more reputable brand if you'd like to have it long term. Or, if the wallet allows, a used mid-length could go a long way in facilitating your first few sessions and honing your surfing down the road as well. Their volume is great for beginners, and the longer rail line can help more experienced surfers smooth out kinks in their carving game.

Did any PNW heads get out there this weekend?? I just moved out here from Jersey over the summer and have only been to the coast a handful of times since, so didn't even know where to start looking. Hope someone scored some cold ones though!

[finecojeffe]

anyone got opinions on wavestorms? getting a good legitimate surfboard is so cost prohibitive and probably the main reason i haven't switched from bodyboarding to real surfing yet.

i think if surfing is something that you really want to do, not just try once in a blue moon, then a wavestorm is a waste and you can find a glass board on offerup, or used at a shop for what wavestorms cost. But if surfing is something you might just try to see if you like it, then also wavestorms are a waste of time and you can just rent a soft top board first to see if it's something you'd even like to get into.

[Huell Howser]

Expand Quote

anyone got opinions on wavestorms? getting a good legitimate surfboard is so cost prohibitive and probably the main reason i haven't switched from bodyboarding to real surfing yet.

[close]

i think if surfing is something that you really want to do, not just try once in a blue moon, then a wavestorm is a waste and you can find a glass board on offerup, or used at a shop for what wavestorms cost. But if surfing is something you might just try to see if you like it, then also wavestorms are a waste of time and you can just rent a soft top board first to see if it's something you'd even like to get into.

I agree with this^

Not trying to gatekeep or anything like that - I really don’t like the feeling of a soft board, whether it is a wave storm or a “nicer” version(besides a wave storm I’ve only tried almond or whatever they used to make in the early 2000s that felt like a fat pool noodle haha). I’d rather ride a beat up old glassed board because it feels much more stable and quick for paddling. Maybe it’s just a mental thing for me. My wife started learning to surf sometime in 2019 and she borrowed a friends old longboard for a while - She mostly used that and tried a wave storm once or twice but always preferred a “real” board for some reason as well. I think this was a huge factor for her in being able to turn because it feels so easy to dig the rails on a soft top

You can definitely find a old long board somewhere on Craigslist, offer up, or fb marketplace for not much more than a soft top. I would try for that or to borrow from someone if possible

But again this is just my opinion, if you wanna surf and feel comfortable on the wave storm then get out there and try it out. Don’t let it deter ya

[mj23]

sup yall, had to check back in here after the pacific mega-swell. did people get sick after surfing in all that runoff? seems gnarly, although maybe with all the repeated rain you've had this season there were already a few good flushes beforehand. hopefully there were a few fickle tucked away points working where you could beat the psycho crowds

just wrapped up a few really fun swells here in the northeast, nothing too crazy but we have had warmer-than-average air temps (like 40-50F air, 45F water) with decent waist-to-shoulder size waves showing up once a week or so since before christmas, so i'm psyched.

on the topic of wavestorms, i fuckin hate em, i've tried some soft tops over the years and they just feel so heavy and soggy and annoying to move around. i honestly think they're harder to surf, and their only real selling points are that they are a little bit safer for a total beginner (or a crowded summertime beach). maybe some of the newer fancier brands are better, idk, but if you keep your eye on secondhand type websites you can get a real board for a reasonable price.

and on the topic of swimming, i think if you arent comfortable swimming out to a given surf spot, you probably shouldnt take a board out there either. Not trying to gatekeep, just thinking "safety first" after years working as a lifeguard when i was younger. too many people think a surfboard is a crutch (which it can be, under the right circumstances), but it's also potential liability (it could hit you in the head, or give you a false sense of security, for example)

[Frank and Fred]

Things finally settled down up here in the PNW at a time my schedule allowed and I scored a regular spot that was looking not so regular. Sun down session, back lit thumpy beach break and some long right hand peelers in the distance. After not surfing for a weeks and weeks I was worried about my fitness level but all was well. Took out my 6'5" Lost Retroripper and surprised myself with a handful of steep drops into reeling left hand walls. I guess, I still surf. Might be more on tap this weekend.

Also in better news (for Oregon at least) La Nina might on its way out and El Nino on its way in, so next winter should be way more manageable for us... but you never really know how these 'events' are going to play out...

[finecojeffe]

been flat in SoFla as usual but I just got a few knee highs about 45 minutes ago that quenched my dry legs. Really not a good winter so far down here, been having to drive hours too often. Hopefully it picks up sooner than later. On another note I've been skating more than ever since the waves are always flat and my youngest son now always wants to skate with me so that's been a real positive.

In regards to surfing post rain...I moved to Fla years ago from Los Angeles and always kinda bugged about surfing in the rain since all the run off there is nasty, but at this point I'd probably be one to paddle out in just about anything if theres a chance to catch some waves.

[Frank and Fred]

Nice run up here. Blew Monday off work and scored a Yurt to camp out Sunday night. Waited for the weekend crowds to dissipate and had two great sessions Sun evening and mon morning. Small but long period west swell running and offshores. Freezing though. Wetsuit actually froze as I was drip drying it outside the yurt.

[swellbowed]

[Blue Fescue]

We are going to PR in a month and taking three bags.  Any opinions on whether to get a travel bag or a coffin with wheels?  I can see advantages to both.  I think the biggest board we will take is 7'0". 

Also any opinions on a 7'4" Bing Collector in Puerto Rico?

[finecojeffe]

Yesterday at south beach went from vas/whiteout rain conditions to clear glassy in a few short hours. The surf cam looks like an old cell phone from about 2007, but it's still fun to try to find myself. Definitely would prefer an actual cam because the angle flattens everything. I'm pretty sure this cam is about 100' up and 4-5 blocks away.

[PatrickSkateman]

How is it traveling with a 7’?

Would something shorter be better for Costa Rica?

[boston_bruins]

Costa Rica is pretty heavy, you might need something bigger than 7 foot. Maybe 8’6” to get the real serious tubes. They might rob you in tamarindo, watch out, I heard they smoke tweak

[LemThurdy]

been flat in SoFla as usual but I just got a few knee highs about 45 minutes ago that quenched my dry legs. Really not a good winter so far down here, been having to drive hours too often. Hopefully it picks up sooner than later. On another note I've been skating more than ever since the waves are always flat and my youngest son now always wants to skate with me so that's been a real positive.

In regards to surfing post rain...I moved to Fla years ago from Los Angeles and always kinda bugged about surfing in the rain since all the run off there is nasty, but at this point I'd probably be one to paddle out in just about anything if theres a chance to catch some waves.

Welcome to Fl, mate, surfing after the rain and/or with onshore winds is normal here lol. The waves have been down here since that epic run we had for 2020.
I have been skating w my youngest son too , been awesome to take him out there and he’s stoked on it. U ever take ur boy to surf?

[Frank and Fred]

Scored a fun little swell last weekend. Portland was buried in snow and no one wanted to drive over the passes to the coast so it was pretty mellow crowd of locals. Blue skies, turning orange with the sunset, back lit ice green waves. Waist high runners on the mid twin, as the sun hit the horizon. Camped in a yurt and went back to the same spot for round two the next morning. Wasn't to be but still fun.

Then I came home and sold two boards so I can justify ordering a new custom (that's how I thin down my quiver and justify a new board without the wife knowing).

Bit late in the season but I have a hybrid/semigun/middie on the way. Somewhat like Rawson Sniper/ FCD F Rocket to motivate me to paddle out in Overhead+ surf while feeling unfit and cold. 7'6" round pin tail quad. Glassed to last with a Volan patch on the deck. My shaper took a month or two off to work on his house and this will be his first board after a break... stoked...

[PatrickSkateman]

I just picked up a Volcom 5/4/3 for $159.95 and a 4/3 for $139.95.

[Frank and Fred]

I've seen the Volcom suits on sale a few places... makes me wonder how good they are. Can't skimp on a good 5/4 up here...
Curious about Buell and Dakine.... My Xcel suits don't seem to be as durable as the ones I have had in the past.

[PatrickSkateman]

I've seen the Volcom suits on sale a few places... makes me wonder how good they are. Can't skimp on a good 5/4 up here...
Curious about Buell and Dakine.... My Xcel suits don't seem to be as durable as the ones I have had in the past.

I was really considering shelling out for a Patagonia suit, but my 2 Volcoms combined cost less than half of one of those.

[mj23]

That sounds Fuckin sick @Frank and Fred — I was just thinking earlier today that west coast lineups were probably nicely thinned this week, with so many of the west coast’s surfers running up to the mountains to catch the insane amount of snow y’all got

What glassing schedule are you getting for the new board?

On the topic of wetsuits, anyone know anything about Patagonia warranty? I know they’re great for most other products, to tue point where you can buy a beat up second hand jacket just knowing they will repair or replace it. If that works with wetsuits I would definitely try one out, but based on what I’ve heard about the yulex I wouldn’t do it with anything heavier than a 4/3. Once I get up to 5/4 the weight becomes a much bigger deal and people say yulex is heavier than your average suit

[Frank and Fred]

What glassing schedule are you getting for the new board?

6/4/6 S cloth with a Volan deck patch. Glassed to last and its nice to have a heavier board up here to cut through the chop. I'll post some pics when its done. I think it is being shaped this week.

[Síota]

Fucking hell check this post out from Nora:

Hope the two kooks die in jail in Bali

[Coastal Fever]

Anyone ride a board with this teardrop concave under the nose area before?Interested in buying a used 7’2 Spider Two Step, but haven’t really seen any other boards with that bottom concave. 

Watched the shaper’s video about it, and I guess it’s just to help with lift when noseriding, but I’m mostly hoping to use it as a fun cruisy midlength I can still work on turns and cutbacks with.  Aside from looking kinda weird, will it negatively affect performance in any way?

Here’s the full link for it; https://safarisurf.com/products/two-step-funboard

Is the nose rocker too flat for head high or bigger?  Don’t usually get that buck but would like the option without pearling every time.

[rawr1922]

 That’s an interesting shape Coastal Fever. You deleted your post, how come you haven’t surfed in a few months? Injured or just gnar winter surf where you’re at?  I haven’t surfed in over a year. Can’t wait to surf this summer. The first few times gonna be super rough & will look like a fool. Certain after a few sessions, will get my groove back . I don’t even care about looking like a fool in the gladiator ring, just so happy to jump in the sea

[Coastal Fever]

Haha was kinda embarrassed but long story short, I could never get out due to darkness and/or shitty conditions outside of work hours.  So I holed up inside getting faded and playing guitar instead, but now I’m attempting sobriety and eager to get back out.  Sold my Torq yesterday for 80% of what I paid for it 2-3 years ago, and looking to buy my first “real” surfboard.

I’ve heard amazing things about Spider/Safari boards and can get one in good shape for a decent price.  Scheduled to pick it up tmrw.  I’m a little concerned about the lack of nose rocker, but in all honesty I should probably worry more about wave count than getting vertical and smacking the lip.

[rawr1922]

For what it’s worth, at least you were playing guitar during your goth phase. You definitely gotta get out sooner than later. Life flying by. Guarantee when we depart, we wish we seized the day more. Already feel that way especially after moving away from the beach. Can definitely relate to the sobriety issue. Lost count how many sessions I could have had due to being faded. 
 
As far as boards, never tried the types you mentioned. That’s part of the fun, experimenting with all kinds to see what works for you. First half of my life, surfed epoxy. Definitely all about fiberglass now. And you’re right…nowadays all about wave count!

[rawr1922]

This documentary so inspiring. Definitely gonna watch right before my surf trip

[Frank and Fred]

Fucking hell check this post out from Nora:

Hope the two kooks die in jail in Bali

Damn just saw this. Any more details on the violent kooks? Where are they from?

[Síota]

Expand Quote

Fucking hell check this post out from Nora:

Hope the two kooks die in jail in Bali

[close]

Damn just saw this. Any more details on the violent kooks? Where are they from?

They are JP Azevedo and Adriano Portela both Brazilin. JP Azevedo had an ex girlfriend call him out for beating her, she posted pic's of her face all fucked up. Of course he put his insta private (@jp_azevedosurf) . Here is an article on it with pics of his ex all fucked up.

https://www.strayrocket.com/surfer-attacks-woman/

Dude needs to stop breathing.

[mj23]

supposedly the attacker's house was surrounded a vigilante mob for days just waiting to beat his ass, and authorities are interested in charging him with crimes that could entail a 1 year prison sentence before being deported. this is all just stuff floating through the surf media rumor mill tho, i dont think its been confirmed.

either way the guy is clearly a menace, and he's really reinforcing brazillian surfers' negative reputation

[Jewel Runner]

Yesterday I was watching FUEL TV in my bed before sleeping and a surf full-lenght was on and I found it very cool and relatively equal to a skate full lenght... the music, the b-roll, the cheering... basically I was into the whole vibe

That made me come here and ask you guys for the "best" surfing full-lenghts and/or videoparts (if they exist)

I don't surf and never have but I'm always intrigued to try it and maybe this summer I'll finally do it

[PatrickSkateman]

Yesterday I was watching FUEL TV in my bed before sleeping and a surf full-lenght was on and I found it very cool and relatively equal to a skate full lenght... the music, the b-roll, the cheering... basically I was into the whole vibe

That made me come here and ask you guys for the "best" surfing full-lenghts and/or videoparts (if they exist)

I don't surf and never have but I'm always intrigued to try it and maybe this summer I'll finally do it

Sonic Souvenirs hands down.

Step Into Liquid and The Endless Summer are solid classics.

Volcom Psychic Migrations

Anything with Craig Anderson