Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 21626 times)

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lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #90 on: April 12, 2021, 12:49:49 PM »
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Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
[close]

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...

join us on surfer mag forums we are in too deep send help

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #91 on: April 12, 2021, 12:52:04 PM »
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Does anyone know of a surfing forum that has a similar vibe to slap? Iíve poked around a little and a lot of them seem super lame, plus the surfer.com forum has gigantic ads that make mobile usage basically impossible.
[close]
r/surfing has similar levels of shit talk and gear discussion, but I understand if itís not your vibe.  Havenít looked at any others but thatís mostly because Iím not overly interested in surf pros or videos.

After a handful of shitty sessions and wondering if I made a big mistake sizing down, the conditions were finally on point today and I caught the best rides of my life so far.  Can finally pull hard turns up and down the face as opposed to my previous drawn out carves.  Feels amazing, like learning a new skate trick, which I havenít done in a very long time.

on the surfer mag forum, click view desktop site
it will load up like normal w no ads

The waco pool has a new filtration system on it, I haven't been but all my friends have its sick.
Austin is going to be a haul for waves. Corpus is like 3 hours away so its not bad, I often cruise down to corpus from houston for the weekend. 3.5 hours ish 4 w pee and food stops


foureyedjim

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #92 on: April 12, 2021, 02:42:15 PM »
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Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
[close]

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...
[close]

join us on surfer mag forums we are in too deep send help
Gonna save some money and say no...for now...

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #93 on: April 12, 2021, 06:15:35 PM »
The Surfer Mag Design forum has a wealth of knowledge on board design but some of those bros have quivers that are dozens and even hundreds of boards deep.

jgonzalez

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #94 on: April 12, 2021, 09:39:09 PM »
Never surfed but lived on/near the coast in nor cal my whole life. I donít have a car or any gear but I wanna learn. Would a good step 1 be to just get lessons

nothing's been the since same

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #95 on: April 13, 2021, 11:01:03 AM »
Honestly yes.
I see so many people waste a ton of time struggling because they don't wanna ask for help.
DO IT

bigdave

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #96 on: April 19, 2021, 06:06:20 AM »
Just put a deposit down on one of these. 5-6 month wait right now.
https://www.elmore.shop/models/easypin


Troy shapes at a shop I pass every time I surf. Just a few minutes from my house.
He's a ripping skater too. Gets (or got?) boards from Transportation Unit per this slightly older video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB5sBMDDErY

Before that got second at the Red Curb Invitational SoCal did
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zX7ZIQS83X8

Here's more on him shaping:
https://vimeo.com/207170507

Was exchanging a few emails with him and he hasnt skated in awhile but his bowl style is pretty sick.

Anyway, stoked to buy a board from a really good shaper who also skates, and gets skateboards from my favorite skateboard company!

ok thanks

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #97 on: April 19, 2021, 12:13:43 PM »
Nice looking sticks there @bigdave . There's an appeal to single fins for sure but I find they need some nice predictable lined up waves... we don't get much of that up here in Oregon (with a few exceptions).

I also need to get a longboard one day. What size are you getting?

bigdave

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #98 on: April 19, 2021, 01:08:56 PM »
Nice looking sticks there @bigdave . There's an appeal to single fins for sure but I find they need some nice predictable lined up waves... we don't get much of that up here in Oregon (with a few exceptions).

I also need to get a longboard one day. What size are you getting?

Well the initial convo was a 9'8" but, have a long, long time to think about it.
ok thanks

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #99 on: April 22, 2021, 02:48:07 PM »
been getting out a once/twice a week which is awesome. Feels good just to paddle out even if the waves suck

random thought but when skating transition I have always felt less comfortable doing anything frontside but, with surfing I feel way more comfortable going frontside and almost hate to go backside(unless I am on a longboard)

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #100 on: April 22, 2021, 02:56:21 PM »
been getting out a once/twice a week which is awesome. Feels good just to paddle out even if the waves suck

random thought but when skating transition I have always felt less comfortable doing anything frontside but, with surfing I feel way more comfortable going frontside and almost hate to go backside(unless I am on a longboard)

i feel the same way and i think its pretty common. part of is that when skating ramps backside you can pretty much eyeball the obstacle and be confident that you know how its gonna work on the approach, but surfing backside you have to stay aware of a wave thats behind your shoulder while it constantly changes shape, size, texture, etc

on a similar sort of skate/surf crossover note, i'm finding that my stubby 6'6" thruster egg is way more like a skateboard than my 7'6" 2+1. The bigger board is super easier to catch waves but once i go to turn it becomes pretty weird feeling. some people have said quads can feel "skatey," so i got a quad set for the egg to see what happens. hoping that the "faster" quad setup will compensate for lower volume on small days.

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #101 on: April 22, 2021, 05:56:12 PM »
just came out of the water, sunset surf with epic levels. The main is pumping, get some!

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #102 on: April 23, 2021, 09:06:14 PM »
Pulled up at the spot today and it looked garbage. Small, no shape, sectioning dribble. There is a nearby skatepark and so I nearly pulled the plug on surfing but decided I may as well go for a paddle to keep the paddle muscles up. I took out my 7'2" midlength and set it up as a single fin. Tide started dropping and some really fun peaks started popping up, then walling up into some long cruisey rides. Single fin is something I rarely do but it forces you to slow down and really read the wave. This spot is usually super crowded but there was about 6 of us out all morning. Stoked.

Then I went for a post-surf skate at this super peculiar park. Crazy tight transitions, kins and pool coping that no one sauces and is super rugged due to the Oregon coast air. Anyway, I really think the surf sesh got me in the right mind set for some frontside slashes and carve grinds in some tough to got to sections of this park. Had the damn place to myself. Perfect Spring day.

As for a more skate sensation, I like sub 6' short wide tailed quads. A twin keel fish in the right waves can feel like pumping a bowl also.

pugmaster

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #103 on: April 24, 2021, 09:05:22 PM »
What are some good beaches/spots near Orange County where parking is free/not a hassle?

Thanks!
I like my women the same way I like my personified cups of coffee...black...strong...and proud.

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Jagr

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #104 on: April 25, 2021, 08:46:57 AM »
Pulled up at the spot today and it looked garbage. Small, no shape, sectioning dribble. There is a nearby skatepark and so I nearly pulled the plug on surfing but decided I may as well go for a paddle to keep the paddle muscles up. I took out my 7'2" midlength and set it up as a single fin. Tide started dropping and some really fun peaks started popping up, then walling up into some long cruisey rides. Single fin is something I rarely do but it forces you to slow down and really read the wave. This spot is usually super crowded but there was about 6 of us out all morning. Stoked.

Then I went for a post-surf skate at this super peculiar park. Crazy tight transitions, kins and pool coping that no one sauces and is super rugged due to the Oregon coast air. Anyway, I really think the surf sesh got me in the right mind set for some frontside slashes and carve grinds in some tough to got to sections of this park. Had the damn place to myself. Perfect Spring day.

As for a more skate sensation, I like sub 6' short wide tailed quads. A twin keel fish in the right waves can feel like pumping a bowl also.

Which park?

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #105 on: April 25, 2021, 08:49:37 AM »
Seaside oregon

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #106 on: April 26, 2021, 01:40:10 PM »
What are some good beaches/spots near Orange County where parking is free/not a hassle?

Thanks!

for free parking/decent waves I'd recommend the numbered streets in downtown Huntington Beach, especially on week days.

bigdave

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #107 on: April 26, 2021, 03:14:42 PM »
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What are some good beaches/spots near Orange County where parking is free/not a hassle?

Thanks!
[close]

for free parking/decent waves I'd recommend the numbered streets in downtown Huntington Beach, especially on week days.

So what you're trying to say is...

Sorry, huge Huell fan here.

Yeah, I agree with this recommendation, but I also would suggest scraping the pennies for a State Park pass. You can park anywhere I think south of the pier + Bolsa Chica w/ the state park pass. I surf Magnolia street area at 7am a lot (mostly just to be crowds and stay out of other people's way) and I get my value out of the pass really fast. Also, how the fuck is this swell holy shit. Too rich for my blood right now.
ok thanks

bigdave

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #108 on: April 26, 2021, 03:24:27 PM »
Has anyone used a Green Fuz bag yet? I really want to buy one of these for my incoming Elmore and make it my daily bag to protect my board as much as possible.
https://green-fuz.com/products/transmission-longboard-day-bag?variant=39309482721385

Little pricey but everyone, including CJ Nelson, swears by the quality.
ok thanks

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #109 on: April 26, 2021, 05:10:18 PM »
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What are some good beaches/spots near Orange County where parking is free/not a hassle?

Thanks!
[close]

for free parking/decent waves I'd recommend the numbered streets in downtown Huntington Beach, especially on week days.
[close]

So what you're trying to say is...

Sorry, huge Huell fan here.

Yeah, I agree with this recommendation, but I also would suggest scraping the pennies for a State Park pass. You can park anywhere I think south of the pier + Bolsa Chica w/ the state park pass. I surf Magnolia street area at 7am a lot (mostly just to be crowds and stay out of other people's way) and I get my value out of the pass really fast. Also, how the fuck is this swell holy shit. Too rich for my blood right now.


haha glad to hear it!

Yeah, seconded about the state pass being worth it. I have been borrowing friends more recently and now I am on board. It was definitely bigger last weekend

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #110 on: April 27, 2021, 07:55:26 AM »
You CA bros must be scoring some pretty decent south swell the last few days?


bigdave

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #111 on: April 27, 2021, 07:57:20 AM »
You CA bros must be scoring some pretty decent south swell the last few days?

Its pretty damn good. Sadly I havent been out at all. Two days were actually a little too big for me. I wont get out again until Friday. 
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foureyedjim

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #112 on: April 27, 2021, 10:22:54 AM »
You CA bros must be scoring some pretty decent south swell the last few days?

Santa Cruz has been real nice.  I don't go to the big surf spots, but 1-2 foot waves have been real fun.  Also for some reason nobody has been going out when I do so it's like unlimited waves. 

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #113 on: April 27, 2021, 12:11:23 PM »
Kinda bummed I leave CA for a few weeks right when this swell hits

>.<

Now Iím in NJ and remembering why I surfed so much less here. Always planning around way more fickle swell, wind, and temperature conditions. And waves often pick up after a storm so I have to decide if I really want to swim thru all the runoff. Iíve definitely gotten sick from it before...

But at least we arenít landlocked!

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #114 on: April 28, 2021, 10:27:31 AM »
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #115 on: April 28, 2021, 06:15:29 PM »
Iím seriously impressed by anyone who can ride a shortboard.  I canít imagine surfing a board with 20L less than mine.  Did you step down progressively or just go for it one day and power through the learning curve?

Conditions have been pretty ass around here, but got out today and made some improvement on angling my takeoffs so I can trim down the line on small shitty waves, rather than try to bottom turn and bog out almost immediately.

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #116 on: April 28, 2021, 07:53:18 PM »
Took my 5'10 Lost/Mayhem quad fin fish out this morning for the first time in forever. I forgot how much I love this board

Easy to catch waves because its thick but still keeps its speed and responsiveness

Bought a 5'8 Lost Rocket redux recently to replace my 5'7 Rocket. Defs easier to hold speed out of turns, but from 27 to 29 litres makes it feel a bit boaty. At least it paddles well.
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #117 on: April 28, 2021, 08:06:49 PM »
Iím seriously impressed by anyone who can ride a shortboard.  I canít imagine surfing a board with 20L less than mine.  Did you step down progressively or just go for it one day and power through the learning curve?

Conditions have been pretty ass around here, but got out today and made some improvement on angling my takeoffs so I can trim down the line on small shitty waves, rather than try to bottom turn and bog out almost immediately.

You'd be surprised at how much volume you can cram into a 'short' board. This is an amazing time for surfboard design. The early 90s, when I learned was terrible. Super thin, highly rockered 6'0 to 6'6"s... aka Slater's Glass Slippers. more volume just meant going longer. Those boards were dog shit in anything but perfect shoulder high and above waves.

I have a 5'8" right now that has more volume than my 6'2". The hardest part of surfing shorter boards is just the timing on take off. But with some skateboard ability and if you're reasonably fit, once you dial in wave-catching, take offs and pop ups on a shortboard, its not really harder than surfing a mid length or longboard... just a different approach.

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #118 on: April 28, 2021, 08:13:21 PM »

You'd be surprised at how much volume you can cram into a 'short' board. This is an amazing time for surfboard design. The early 90s, when I learned was terrible. Super thin, highly rockered 6'0 to 6'6"s... aka Slater's Glass Slippers. more volume just meant going longer. Those boards were dog shit in anything but perfect shoulder high and above waves.


It really is an amazing time for board design. I started in '91 so I remember well those stupidly thin, stupidly rockered boards. Real bad when your young, broke, and have a one board quiver that was. Having said that, the proliferation of mid-length boards has been a blight on our oceans.
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #119 on: April 28, 2021, 08:23:19 PM »
Haha, agree on the mid lengths.... Full disclaimer... I have to admit I did surrender and I have 7'2" kind of similar to the Channel Islands mid length. In winter in Northern Oregon there is really only one consistent spot. It has a heavily localized point break populated by short boarders and really fun big fat peak on the inside that is populated by experienced long boarders. Lots of water, lots of paddling in thick wetsuits. I decided to split the difference to enjoy this spot and the mid length has been a savior for my winter wave count. It kind of functions as a semigun for me also.  but generally speaking, anywhere else I like high volume short boards in the 5'8" to 6'5" range. 

I learned on a 6'10" "short' board but soon stepped down to 6'4"s. But again way too long, narrow and thin for the waves I learned in (UK).... Would love to send some boards back in a time machine to my teenage self.