Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 31646 times)

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botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #60 on: March 29, 2021, 03:07:05 PM »
Billy Kempers rapid fire all time year which finished with the session of a lifetime and then extreme pain

 https://youtu.be/gGGMvPtjtZo

have to admit, him standing on the rockstar seadoo beating his chest and talking about how he just wants to win, I was kind of ready to see what kind of shit he was gonna eat.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #61 on: March 29, 2021, 04:49:56 PM »
Oh he eats shit alright haha
Absolutely gruesome

Yeah you’d get a couple lessons for sure just cause you might do weird shit without knowing, easier to have it all explained properly sort of thing
listen to cosmic psychos

shucknjive

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #62 on: March 29, 2021, 05:11:28 PM »
mArLeY

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #63 on: March 29, 2021, 06:42:08 PM »
These are some good ones, anyone else got like favourite videos of outrageous shit

https://youtu.be/Fr5LSFUqR_U

https://youtu.be/OZreIggVUmE

https://youtu.be/0I0omT_d6xk

These two are classic, Botefdunn

https://youtu.be/WJuE8nQtv1w

https://youtu.be/qR71I1TfqWM

This one is very funny you could just skip to 3.30

https://youtu.be/Ort_gb0yyFk

Sorry I keep posting haha we are on lockdown and I am drinking and watching clips I like

https://youtu.be/x7q-84gdMso

https://youtu.be/emV8kyMTf9s


Post rad shit from your side of the world guys
« Last Edit: March 29, 2021, 08:04:25 PM by matty_c »
listen to cosmic psychos

rocklobster

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #64 on: March 29, 2021, 08:10:02 PM »
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I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
[close]
if you're a strong swimmer and an experienced skater you can probably figure out the basics in a week, especially if you watch some youtube videos beforehand. just don't underestimate the upper body strength required. i have seen more than one skate friend get super discouraged because they werent physically prepared for how much energy theyd need to put in paddling. one of them also got motion sickness from the water after 30min or so, which was kinda funny to me but i guess makes sense if you don't spend a ton of time in the water. i'm still not very good but i'm totally self taught so it's definitely possible. if you aren't already a big upper body strength person, you could start training by swimming laps or hitting some extra shoulder workouts.
[close]
Had a couple more tries at it as an adult in marginal conditions, thinking it would be a breeze from all my skating and snowboarding. Fact is, unlike snowboarding and skating where you are almost always on the board, actual board riding is 5% 1% of the surfing experience. Couldn’t get it and spent most of my time wearing my arms out and getting a bad sunburn.

Surfing is way more unforgiving than skateboarding. Mess up a trick and you can pick up your board and try again. Mess up a wave and you have to battle the waves to get back out to the line up, wait your turn, wait for the next set; all while hoping you didn't get injured or nearly drowning.

It's definitely more mentally and physically draining than skateboarding; the option of taking a break after trying a trick isn't really there since you have to be constantly watching the waves and paddling out to avoid incoming waves.

That said, I love it. Wish I picked it up earlier or lived nearer to the waves.
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Wheelbyte

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #65 on: March 30, 2021, 12:03:13 AM »
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Billy Kempers rapid fire all time year which finished with the session of a lifetime and then extreme pain

 https://youtu.be/gGGMvPtjtZo
[close]

have to admit, him standing on the rockstar seadoo beating his chest and talking about how he just wants to win, I was kind of ready to see what kind of shit he was gonna eat.

it was like something had to give eh?
that Hawaiian machismo has unraveled all the top pros from there....
been following Billy Kemper for nearly 10 years since I saw him surf in the Da Hui shootouts
he was just a kid but had the hunger and talent to go all the way
now his heavy build and power surfing remind me of Sunny Garcia
hopefully he endures for his family
and doesn't crash and burn like most top tier Hawaiians
its like you have the whole islands hopes and dreams on your shoulders

Wheelbyte

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #66 on: March 30, 2021, 12:25:44 AM »
These are some good ones, anyone else got like favourite videos of outrageous shit

Post rad shit from your side of the world guys

goes into his folder to pick a couple of favourites....

https://youtu.be/18BL7MKjtZM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHm3VjigNEE

bigdave

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #67 on: March 30, 2021, 08:22:11 AM »
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I live nowhere near the ocean but I'll be in the Outer Banks for a week in late May. Not to go full Johnny Utah but I've always wanted to surf. Is a week a long enough amount of time to actually figure it out (no lessons, just trial and error)?

I can get a wetsuit and a shitty board from Costco for like $200 all-in so I'm heavily tempted to try and live the dream.
[close]
if you're a strong swimmer and an experienced skater you can probably figure out the basics in a week, especially if you watch some youtube videos beforehand. just don't underestimate the upper body strength required. i have seen more than one skate friend get super discouraged because they werent physically prepared for how much energy theyd need to put in paddling. one of them also got motion sickness from the water after 30min or so, which was kinda funny to me but i guess makes sense if you don't spend a ton of time in the water. i'm still not very good but i'm totally self taught so it's definitely possible. if you aren't already a big upper body strength person, you could start training by swimming laps or hitting some extra shoulder workouts.
[close]
Had a couple more tries at it as an adult in marginal conditions, thinking it would be a breeze from all my skating and snowboarding. Fact is, unlike snowboarding and skating where you are almost always on the board, actual board riding is 5% 1% of the surfing experience. Couldn’t get it and spent most of my time wearing my arms out and getting a bad sunburn.
[close]

Surfing is way more unforgiving than skateboarding. Mess up a trick and you can pick up your board and try again. Mess up a wave and you have to battle the waves to get back out to the line up, wait your turn, wait for the next set; all while hoping you didn't get injured or nearly drowning.

It's definitely more mentally and physically draining than skateboarding; the option of taking a break after trying a trick isn't really there since you have to be constantly watching the waves and paddling out to avoid incoming waves.

That said, I love it. Wish I picked it up earlier or lived nearer to the waves.

What I always say:
Skateboarding is painful.
Snowboarding is expensive.
Surfing is hard.
ok thanks

bigdave

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #68 on: March 30, 2021, 08:39:01 AM »
I surfed a ton when I was young. I quit though before I quit snowboarding and skating, but I came back to all three in the last two years. Snowboarding was first, then surfing.

Surfing, because of the time commitment and it being fundamentally harder than the other two has been the slowest to come back. One-way to my regular spot is 17 miles and I work full-time and have kids etc, so when I am on, it means I am surfing twice a week for about four hours total which really isnt enough, but I still love it.

Got out this morning. 1' slop, but I hadnt surfed yet in 2021. I am clearly not "on it" yet, but I am hoping this kicks off 2x per week going forward. Felt pretty good, the waves were shit. Only caught a couple. Mostly happy with my comfort in the water and my paddling etc. All felt good. Looking forward to getting back on it Friday.
ok thanks

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #69 on: March 31, 2021, 03:53:43 AM »
Fuck yeah, Wheelbyte, that Waimea river one’s sick

I went to Hawaii on holiday just as a little kid and we drove to north shore a few times and just watched, absolutely incredible, just watching was such a rush, I could never. Those waves are something else

I remember this shit so well cause I love food we had like the best surf and turf ever at this joint on the beach I think it was Waikiki

But yeah you live in a lovely part of the world bro, we went to some of the Jurassic park places probably sounds real dorky but I loved it

How goods this one I dunno how to relate it to skateboarding I guess the concept is a ba style of willpower but not even close really
Now, this is barging something
https://youtu.be/x_Jd2BezU2I
listen to cosmic psychos

Wheelbyte

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #70 on: March 31, 2021, 01:55:11 PM »
Fuck yeah, Wheelbyte, that Waimea river one’s sick

I went to Hawaii on holiday just as a little kid and we drove to north shore a few times and just watched, absolutely incredible, just watching was such a rush, I could never. Those waves are something else

But yeah you live in a lovely part of the world bro

Not wrong mate that shits insane but my part of the world is actually that shit hole across the ditch from you in Dorkland NZ. I knew I should have said something so sorry for putting you wrong cobber. There aint much good surfing footage from NZ cause the waves are not as good as in OZ or elsewhere.

A whole bunch of us Kiwis lived on the beachfront at Maroubra in the 80s/90s my mate had a lease on 5 beds 4 baths 3 decks for 7 years this was before all the riots and bra boys infamy, we used to buy hash browns from a 12 yr old on a skateboard his sister was dating a Lebo guy, I also live in a old milking shed in Gracetown near Margaret River and Esperence too as my girl was from there [before all the shark fatalities] and spent a year or so in Yamba. Came real close to staying on in Northern Rivers, did a few trips to Nimbin and just a month ago was checking real estate, can still buy homes for 3-400k next to all the ferals. I just want to drop out now and be away from all the crazyness,, so I reckon Nimbin could be the go lol.

You on the Goldy?

https://youtu.be/A7r5rmGuTpI

« Last Edit: March 31, 2021, 02:12:58 PM by Wheelbyte »

rocklobster

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #71 on: March 31, 2021, 08:01:57 PM »
Bali is my closest surf spot, haven't been back in a while. But these guys post out daily videos at local spots:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y01lTuLpR-E
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matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #72 on: March 31, 2021, 08:38:47 PM »
Nah I have always lived in brisbane, so I would go to Kirra with family all the time through the 90s, my dads mate had something to do with one of the surf clubs down there but yeah superbank was unreal back in the day I’m not even that good, deadset and I feel like a bit silly saying this but man it was such a nice wave back then

As a kid we actually lived closer to bribie and they made me do nippers there so we’d usually just go a bit further north on those days and towards late 90s and on we started staying up sunny coast and that’s all I really done since, yamba and surrounds are dope though I go down there sometimes

Ahh look I reckon there’s still places I have even been looking for myself old man grew up around Murwillumbah and most of northern nsw is gods country straight up

But yeah the dream of some proper acreage on a good quality piece of land by a river, yeah I just play lotto bro

What happened to nimbin?
These people happened man
Just wizard type cunts, they’re gross deadset we’d drive down there for Mardi grass still in highschool and even then they were all kinda cooked and merely a novelty
https://youtu.be/tMzF8VDuWwo

You can search off maps, right, have a suss round the Channon, numinbah, places like that
Even mullum bro and inland from there, there’s places. Rathdowneys sick there’s heaps of places

Sounds like a good time for you in Sydney that would have been sick bro I’d have to be ten years younger than you easy. I’m a bit suss on most of wa but I would fish 100%
I bet you had a sick time mate
listen to cosmic psychos

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #73 on: March 31, 2021, 08:47:23 PM »
Just got a new 6'2" Winged tail twin fin from my friend who shapes some pretty killer boards. I've always had mixed results with twinnies but excited to have one in the quiver again to liven up summer surf.

Wheelbyte

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #74 on: April 01, 2021, 12:31:35 AM »
Nah I have always lived in brisbane, so I would go to Kirra with family all the time through the 90s, my dads mate had something to do with one of the surf clubs down there but yeah superbank was unreal back in the day I’m not even that good, deadset and I feel like a bit silly saying this but man it was such a nice wave back then

As a kid we actually lived closer to bribie and they made me do nippers there so we’d usually just go a bit further north on those days and towards late 90s and on we started staying up sunny coast and that’s all I really done since, yamba and surrounds are dope though I go down there sometimes

Ahh look I reckon there’s still places I have even been looking for myself old man grew up around Murwillumbah and most of northern nsw is gods country straight up

But yeah the dream of some proper acreage on a good quality piece of land by a river, yeah I just play lotto bro

What happened to nimbin?
These people happened man
Just wizard type cunts, they’re gross deadset we’d drive down there for Mardi grass still in highschool and even then they were all kinda cooked and merely a novelty

You can search off maps, right, have a suss round the Channon, numinbah, places like that
Even mullum bro and inland from there, there’s places. Rathdowneys sick there’s heaps of places

Sounds like a good time for you in Sydney that would have been sick bro I’d have to be ten years younger than you easy. I’m a bit suss on most of wa but I would fish 100%
I bet you had a sick time mate

Yea I have only smoked weed once or twice this year so being around drug fucked idiots like him aint my thing. Thanks for the input on names I reckon geographical isolation is what I'm really after, and a few alternative types but not the whole fucking town. Nimbin is full of swingers and Aucklands west coast surf beaches has lots of the same types who just what to stick their dicks into anyone new. I'm fairly conservative in most things and prefer a farming or fishing community as a base, with just a few arty city transplants. Meth has fucked up a lot of rural towns in NZ too, but all the junkies here are usually in the cities. Yamba was kinda perfect actually, being well off the main highway.

BTW that Currumbin Alley footage is one of my favourites I often watch, great soundtrack too.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #75 on: April 01, 2021, 01:34:48 AM »
Haha yeah how good is it, I love that clip too
Yeah I wasn’t having a dig at you heaps of people smoke and drink and stuff but I reckon that whole crew and type brings all this negative attention
Can’t stand that drug, ice, hey
What I meant was by you can search off maps is like go to realestate or domain and set like a max price and search off the map there, you’d be surprised
But yeah all well inland nothing on the coast left really

Saw something a few months ago near the coast but had some shit over the land so unable to use as a permanent residence. Still, you could sort of think outside the box and come up with a mad little shack

How goods that Marty t on YouTube I’m not sure exactly where he is in New Zealand and I don’t know if he surfs but he could probably do anything haha
But yeah it’d be great just to have a mad bit of land and fiddle with shit like how he does

Edit for clarity
« Last Edit: April 01, 2021, 04:28:41 AM by matty_c »
listen to cosmic psychos

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #76 on: April 09, 2021, 02:34:40 PM »
just a few weeks ago i was saying that i had trouble making a bottom turn and going down the line; now i'm happy to say i have gotten over that hump. sessions lately have dependably involved at least a few waves where i get those turns in, really surprised myself when i finally started getting top turns in and could successfully pump into more than one section of the wave. i'm learning a lot faster since moving to LA where i can comfortably surf decent waves all winter instead of getting rusty for 6 months of the year and then riding summertime east coast much when it finally warms up. go figure  ::)

foureyedjim

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #77 on: April 09, 2021, 11:47:19 PM »
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #78 on: April 10, 2021, 12:12:12 AM »
One of them was always going to win, honestly I’m psyched on italo the most so it’s chill

Sick to see some locals come up early though, that was great

Say what you want about the wsl but that ziff cunt just burns coin for his ego and our enjoyment he been doing it for years
I’m stoked to see it back
listen to cosmic psychos

Sila

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #79 on: April 10, 2021, 12:54:30 AM »
All of my friends have gotten into surfing in the last year or two. It sucks because I can't swim and I feel myself being left behind. I can't relate to them on a new big segment of their lives. The most I can do is listen and learn about it, but I'll never be a part of it. :'(

Find your nearest community pool and get on to some adult swimming lessons. No need to feel embarrassed. We all learn different life skills at different stages. I still don't drive in my 30's as i've always lived in cities and lived with minimal belongings. I just never wanted the responsibility of owning a vehicle I can't sustain considering my financial struggles. I should have at least learnt sooner, but I also couldn't afford damages/repairs to someone else's vehicle if something happened to go wrong. But i'm getting on that in the next couple of weeks. For what it's worth I mainly want to learn so I can take up surfing. Let the excitement of a cool new hobby be your guide.
« Last Edit: April 10, 2021, 02:17:53 AM by Sila »

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #80 on: April 10, 2021, 01:42:14 AM »
That’s a real good example I don’t wanna lie about it I didn’t get a licence till I was 25 or some shit

Worrying about all that stuff is bullshit everyone running their own race here but also swimming could save your life there’s hella drowning videos on liveleak some of them like selfie type ones pretty grim and hella preventable get into swimming mate
listen to cosmic psychos

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #81 on: April 10, 2021, 07:57:04 AM »
Went to a different break yesterday for the first time since I started surfing.  Was pretty nervous tbh because I always figured it was only for “good” surfers.  Then I paddled out and saw some familiar faces, some of which are def no better than I am.  The only ones really ripping were a girl on a longboard and a 50 year old man on a short fish.  Really hyped to have a new spot that’s even closer than my usual one.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #82 on: April 10, 2021, 08:41:13 AM »
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...

foureyedjim

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #83 on: April 10, 2021, 09:06:18 AM »
Expand Quote
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #84 on: April 10, 2021, 10:10:52 AM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
[close]

Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
[close]

Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...
Seriously. Now that I’m getting a bit better I want to grab a board that’s easier to duck dive than my current 6’6”/~40L egg and 7’6”/~50L fun shape. I think I might be ready for like a 30-35L fish or some other kind of short-but-floaty thing. My gf thinks I’m insane  ;D :-X

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #85 on: April 10, 2021, 10:29:17 AM »
Some surfers/ shapers say 'Foam is your friend' for a good reason. Its always tempting to shave off volume but unless you are ripping and surfing high quality waves on a regular basis volume doesn't often hurt. A good shaper can 'hide' volume so that boards still perform really well.

I have  a 5'8" Stretch that is about 38L in volume and its like an aquatic skateboard.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #86 on: April 10, 2021, 10:39:36 AM »
Here's my newest board.



It's a 6'2" shaped by my friend Dan Murdey. If you live in the PNW check his boards out. He's got a deep skateboarding background and has shaped for decades. Highly recommend chatting to him about custom boards.

Haven't surfed it yet. Next week!

foureyedjim

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #87 on: April 10, 2021, 09:01:36 PM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Just recently got comfortable popping in different conditions and sizes.  Still waiting to get to your level mj hah!
Been just riding a 9'6" log but it got dinged pretty bad so it's being repaired.  In the meantime I got a cheap foamie of CList with a huge rocker through the nose and also got this hybrid 7'4" I'm going to try out tomorrow. 

The thing about surfing (and snowboarding) that really gets to me is how many options there are for equipment (and how much it costs). Still trying to wrap my head around fin set ups and board shapes.  So much to think about, but ultimately I know I just have to get better at it and it'll make more sense.
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Nice work. That's when shit starts getting really addictive. I still my remember first few open faced waves at the local reef break in mid-Wales (over 25 years ago- yikes...) Pumping and generating speed and really feeling the fins engage as you crank some turns... that's when all your skateboard muscle memory is going to come into play. The next few years will be really fun and then you'll start to get picky about wave quality and go insane over board design... Best quit after year three...
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Yeah all that shape theory shit on the internet is like crack...
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Seriously. Now that I’m getting a bit better I want to grab a board that’s easier to duck dive than my current 6’6”/~40L egg and 7’6”/~50L fun shape. I think I might be ready for like a 30-35L fish or some other kind of short-but-floaty thing. My gf thinks I’m insane  ;D :-X
Note to self: don't get better...

This was the hybrid I just picked up:
https://jamboards.com/threads/sold-7%E2%80%994-fowler-stoker-v-machine.10170/

Went out today and it was 0-1 ft so it was the worst day to test it out, but surprisingly easy to paddle and pop up on. 

Also, Frank (or?) Fred, good looking board.

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #88 on: April 12, 2021, 10:08:59 AM »
^ that board looks like a ton of fun

I was out in some 1-2 foot weakling waves yesterday as well, managed to ride my last wave all the way into shore and got a compliment from some dad who was just chilling on the beach with his kids, I was hyped. Then I noticed I had dinged my board up at some point during the sesh and I was not hyped. Was planning to go to San Onofre for the coming weekend and now not sure what to do. My other board is already in the shop. I need to stop surfing recklessly when I know I’m over rocks... but I’m just too psyched on charging these points after years of battling crummy beach break waves  :'(

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #89 on: April 12, 2021, 12:44:27 PM »
^ that board looks like a ton of fun

I was out in some 1-2 foot weakling waves yesterday as well, managed to ride my last wave all the way into shore and got a compliment from some dad who was just chilling on the beach with his kids, I was hyped. Then I noticed I had dinged my board up at some point during the sesh and I was not hyped. Was planning to go to San Onofre for the coming weekend and now not sure what to do. My other board is already in the shop. I need to stop surfing recklessly when I know I’m over rocks... but I’m just too psyched on charging these points after years of battling crummy beach break waves  :'(

How bad is the ding?

Fixing boards can feel scary the first few times but its not that hard, especially if you do it in 60F+ temperature and take your time.