Pulled up at the spot today and it looked garbage. Small, no shape, sectioning dribble. There is a nearby skatepark and so I nearly pulled the plug on surfing but decided I may as well go for a paddle to keep the paddle muscles up. I took out my 7'2" midlength and set it up as a single fin. Tide started dropping and some really fun peaks started popping up, then walling up into some long cruisey rides. Single fin is something I rarely do but it forces you to slow down and really read the wave. This spot is usually super crowded but there was about 6 of us out all morning. Stoked.
Then I went for a post-surf skate at this super peculiar park. Crazy tight transitions, kins and pool coping that no one sauces and is super rugged due to the Oregon coast air. Anyway, I really think the surf sesh got me in the right mind set for some frontside slashes and carve grinds in some tough to got to sections of this park. Had the damn place to myself. Perfect Spring day.
As for a more skate sensation, I like sub 6' short wide tailed quads. A twin keel fish in the right waves can feel like pumping a bowl also.