Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 31677 times)

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lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #210 on: June 04, 2021, 09:14:08 AM »
The light would probably attract fish too, nonono lol

I've tried night surfing and it is hard to see the waves coming in, you just get lifted up randomly
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #211 on: June 06, 2021, 06:00:08 PM »
Surfed after sunset many times but never intentionally had a night session. Had a sundowner on Friday. Pretty lackluster waves when we pulled up but it glassed off so nice while we were watching and waiting. A rarity in Oregon to see milk glass conditions. Was probably waist to shoulder high and not very powerful but my new twinnie was just the ticket. Got some really satisfying turns. Lots of people out but so many waves so the crowd wasn't an issue. Surfed for about three hours. Water is warning up a tad also. Beer on the beach and then back over the coastal mountains to the Val in the dark.

Freelancevagrant

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #212 on: June 07, 2021, 05:07:05 PM »
***unrelated sentimental post***

Got to go body surfing this weekend and it was fucking great to be back in the water.

I had to pick up a new set of fins, hydro og’s. I’m not crazy about them, but they worked well and I’ll keep em as a back up. I left my Churchill pros back in Austin and I wasn’t going to drive 4 hours back to get them.

It was like waist high and mushy, about as good as it gets for summer time in Texas. I was with my best friend from the marine corps. Bodysurfing/regular surfing is sort of how we stayed (relatively) sane throughout our contract. He introduced me to bodysurfing with trays, which is still one of my favorite ways to fuck around in the water. This was the first time we paddled out together in 9 years, but he just moved to austin so there will be plenty more. He’s from Oahu and his dad is bit of a local celebrity because he hosts a cable access show called boating basics. About ten years ago his dad made us some hand planes, which I still use. Attached is a picture of the hand plane he made.

Tl/dr: I went bodysurfing with a friend


Well I have like 9 Andy Anderson dated flight decks.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #213 on: June 07, 2021, 07:12:15 PM »
Bodysurfing is legit as, the plane looks dece too
It’s sick to run gear that you can’t just go buy at the shop
listen to cosmic psychos

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #214 on: June 07, 2021, 07:17:23 PM »
Body surfing is Ace. Such a great way to enjoy surfing without all the bullshit. Just pure unadulterated fun. I have a pair of fins I use whenever I come across a thumpy shore break. Unfortunately, I am usually in cold water and its not always so enjoyable getting thrashed in 5mm wettie. I think if I lived in warmer climes I'd be body surfing almost as much as I board surf. Rad looking hand plane @Freelancevagrant I've yet to try one.

Freelancevagrant

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #215 on: June 07, 2021, 07:34:02 PM »
Body surfing is Ace. Such a great way to enjoy surfing without all the bullshit. Just pure unadulterated fun. I have a pair of fins I use whenever I come across a thumpy shore break. Unfortunately, I am usually in cold water and its not always so enjoyable getting thrashed in 5mm wettie. I think if I lived in warmer climes I'd be body surfing almost as much as I board surf. Rad looking hand plane @Freelancevagrant I've yet to try one.

Trust me, I completely understand my dude. I’ve gone bodysurfing when it was snowing and only had a 3/2 and some fin socks (lasted about 30 min). That shit was absolutely brutal. But, it was too good to pass up. I still joke about how fucking cold it was with the same buddy I went with last weekend.

When I was younger, I would paddle out in every condition if it was pumping. Shit, back when me and Jake (my aforementioned best bud) were stationed on the east coast, we paddled out as both hurricanes sandy and Irene approached. In retrospect it was incredibly dumb, but if we were in the shape we used to be, we would do it again. That shit was unreal.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2021, 03:06:58 AM by Freelancevagrant »
Well I have like 9 Andy Anderson dated flight decks.

foureyedjim

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #216 on: June 13, 2021, 10:23:12 PM »
I don't think my contacts would like body surfing lol

I came up on Offerup this week.  Some guy was selling a brand new Egg for 700 that he didn't even put a single speck of wax on.  Apparently he just started surfing and the longest thing they had in stock was 8'4".  Instead of just trying it out, he just decided to sell it.  Wild

https://mollusksurfshop.com/products/84-wegener-wegg-2-1

Came with the Greenough fin that he bought too.

Freelancevagrant

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #217 on: June 14, 2021, 03:30:19 AM »
I don't think my contacts would like body surfing lol

I came up on Offerup this week.  Some guy was selling a brand new Egg for 700 that he didn't even put a single speck of wax on.  Apparently he just started surfing and the longest thing they had in stock was 8'4".  Instead of just trying it out, he just decided to sell it.  Wild

https://mollusksurfshop.com/products/84-wegener-wegg-2-1

Came with the Greenough fin that he bought too.

Yeah dude, contacts and bodysurfing don’t match up. I rotate between contacts and regular spectacles but when I know I’m going to be a torpedo person for the weekend I go no contacts (or glasses obvi) despite my atrocious vision.

Also mollusk is my favorite surf shop on earth.
Well I have like 9 Andy Anderson dated flight decks.

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #218 on: June 14, 2021, 05:49:17 PM »
I haven't bodysurfed anything over 1 ft since I started wearing contacts in the water. Better be wary when I do. Do you guys lose many when yr surfing? Hardly ever happens to me, but I'll usually tuck a couple into my wetsuit sleeve just in case. I did lose 2 at once hitting cross chop when paddling one time. That sucked.
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #219 on: June 14, 2021, 07:33:39 PM »
I haven't bodysurfed anything over 1 ft since I started wearing contacts in the water. Better be wary when I do. Do you guys lose many when yr surfing? Hardly ever happens to me, but I'll usually tuck a couple into my wetsuit sleeve just in case. I did lose 2 at once hitting cross chop when paddling one time. That sucked.

Funny timing, my friend I surf with was just telling me one fell out when he paddled in a couple days ago. he looked down and saw it on the sleeve of his wetsuit and managed to pop it back in on the wave!

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #220 on: June 16, 2021, 09:03:39 AM »
storm swell for texas this weekend, trying to decide if I should drive down to Corpus or stay up in galveston/surfside
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

Freelancevagrant

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #221 on: June 16, 2021, 09:35:38 AM »
storm swell for texas this weekend, trying to decide if I should drive down to Corpus or stay up in galveston/surfside

Surf side for sure
Well I have like 9 Andy Anderson dated flight decks.

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #222 on: June 16, 2021, 11:49:59 AM »
looking bigger in surf side, although I enjoy how clean corpus gets, bob hall or packery

Crowds are worse down there though
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #223 on: June 17, 2021, 07:59:53 AM »
Are there any good surf cams for breaks in Texas? I’m about to move to Austin and it seems like you need to become amateur meteorologist if you want to score gulf waves, plus the 4+ hour drive... so anything would help, and the Surfline app only has a cam for Matagorda

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #224 on: June 18, 2021, 09:02:37 AM »
https://www.galveston.com/webcams/seawallvideocam/

there are several on here for Galveston

looks like fun this weekend although not as big as I was planning for tomorrow or Sunday
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #225 on: June 20, 2021, 05:14:35 AM »
https://youtu.be/KV5I99jEKUs

This is pretty funny
If you smoke weed some some weed then watch, just with the music it’s pretty hypnotic
Those Hawaiians are on to some shit
listen to cosmic psychos

givecigstosurfgroms

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #226 on: June 22, 2021, 11:35:51 AM »
The hand planes look cool and shit but maybe just go ahead with a boogie board at that point.   Any shortboarders out there try boogie boarding?  I'd love to try that too I bet it would be crazy fun.
"I just care about the river, I dont care about your back"

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #227 on: June 22, 2021, 03:43:17 PM »
@matty_c  that vid gives me the creeps, it's facinating but I can't even imagine being in that heavy a stew.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #228 on: June 22, 2021, 07:18:18 PM »
Haha yeah it’s suss as, but fascinating is a good way to describe it...Not my cup of tea either
listen to cosmic psychos

Freelancevagrant

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #229 on: June 22, 2021, 08:23:06 PM »
That shit looks hella hectic but so fun
Well I have like 9 Andy Anderson dated flight decks.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #230 on: June 23, 2021, 07:54:06 AM »
Just got off a week on-call that ended with a last minute graveyard shift and 24 hours no sleep. Anyway, woke up wide awake at 5am yesterday and decided to jump in the North Pacific for a cleanse despite a lackluster forecast. A crossed-up combo swell was running. Short period NW with some sporadic long distance SW swell. hit Oregon's Malibu and it was relatively quiet. People must be returning to work. Paddled out away from the pack to hit this little right-hand wedge by myself only to hear, "Sorry to paddle up on you. I just moved here from California." Dude was nice but he followed me around peak to peak, chatty Larry. Anyway, eventually found a really nice A-frame and ran into a friend I have not seen in two years. We basically had the peak to ourselves for just shy of three hours. It was overhead on the peak, then opening up to Long shoulder high walls (lefts were better, backhand for me forehand for her) Still on my twin fin. God I love that board. Its like an enhanced connection between my mind and my feet. Lots of waves. Back in the City by 1ish. Went to work, a little sunburnt, crispy and smelling slightly of piss. Slept like a log last night but now have  a stiff back....

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #231 on: June 23, 2021, 08:37:47 AM »
Sounds like a solid session!  I deleted my kook post asking about yesterday’s forecast.. but I went out and it was sick.  2ft @ 16s and 3ft @ 7s made for conditions unlike anything I’ve seen yet.  Instead of the usual few breaking spots, it looked like one massive C-shaped swell coming in.  The short swell ruined a lot of waves, but when they lined up it was head high and had serious power behind them.  Love when I can pull a late take off and free fall for a second before hitting the water.  I don’t rip hard enough to do very sharp turns on my 7’4, but getting better at stalling near the top of the face and dropping back down.

Side note... anyone else get soreness in the centre of their chest?  Can’t tell if it’s from how I pop up, paddle, back arch, work related, or all of the above.

Freelancevagrant

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #232 on: June 23, 2021, 08:58:42 AM »
Sounds like a solid session!  I deleted my kook post asking about yesterday’s forecast.. but I went out and it was sick.  2ft @ 16s and 3ft @ 7s made for conditions unlike anything I’ve seen yet.  Instead of the usual few breaking spots, it looked like one massive C-shaped swell coming in.  The short swell ruined a lot of waves, but when they lined up it was head high and had serious power behind them.  Love when I can pull a late take off and free fall for a second before hitting the water.  I don’t rip hard enough to do very sharp turns on my 7’4, but getting better at stalling near the top of the face and dropping back down.

Side note... anyone else get soreness in the centre of their chest?  Can’t tell if it’s from how I pop up, paddle, back arch, work related, or all of the above.

There is damn near no better feeling than pulling off an nasty elevator drop.

To answer your question, I started getting what felt like a sore solar plexus after I broke a couple ribs. I asked a buddy of mine who fucking charges but had 0 medical expertise what is causing it or if they’re related. From what he told me he had no clue if the two were related because he’s not a fucking doctor. But he said he thinks it was related to how I pop up and how I duck dive. His advise was to not round my back when I take off and use a little bit more chest when I duck dive.

I doubt this helps but, it’s all I got.
Well I have like 9 Andy Anderson dated flight decks.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #233 on: June 23, 2021, 09:07:45 AM »
I've had some pectoral pain from paddling for hours on end that feels like sore chest.

Francis Xavier

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #234 on: June 23, 2021, 11:07:56 AM »
The chest pain is definitely a combo of duck diving "wrong" and paddling a shitload...at least for me. Every now and then I get it.

Damn I left my bubbler at my parents house

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #235 on: June 23, 2021, 11:56:16 AM »
saturday drove down to corpus, waves were fun, chest high with 50 of my best friends out at 8 am lmao

The crowd was pretty tame though and caught some fun ones

RNF w Twin trailer setup is okay, fast but not as spontaneous as thruster.

Did a whole bunch of long floaters, felt like mason ho lol
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #236 on: June 25, 2021, 11:15:58 AM »
If you were wondering what the best surfing clip you could watch today is.. I give you Jonah Hill dropping in on a dude and riding away like geriatric zombie.

http://www.instagram.com/p/CQhUmwAFKa4

sketchyrider

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #237 on: June 25, 2021, 11:48:40 AM »
If you were wondering what the best surfing clip you could watch today is.. I give you Jonah Hill dropping in on a dude and riding away like geriatric zombie.

http://www.instagram.com/p/CQhUmwAFKa4

why would you post yourself burning some guy lol

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #238 on: June 29, 2021, 08:23:17 AM »
Over-amped an air the other evening (no I can't really do them) and landed on my fin on my 5'8" Stretch Superbuzz. That board always makes me try...

Anyway, I usually do my own ding repairs but I'm not fucking with blown out fin boxes.

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #239 on: June 29, 2021, 08:26:16 AM »
Yea take the fin box to a professional. Im pretty handy and wont touch them lol

Nice, pics of that beast? Stretch makes a mean board.
Looking at a new board for my bday

thinking Stamps, or a Chemistry, or a Kechkle
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser