Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 31659 times)

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Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #300 on: November 01, 2021, 07:20:21 PM »
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What camera is that bro
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Dunno. It's the in-house photog at the pool
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Ohh yep makes sense, dece photo mate like it’s focused sick

How do those wave pools go? They are doing one up this way but it’s not open yet

I heard you get heaps of waves for the time you’re in there for

It's pretty sick. Pretty weird wave. No real power up top, so off the lips etc have to be nursed a little. It'll expose any weaknesses in your surfing no doubt. I think 18 sets come through an hour, and if it's not a full sesh, you'll get a wave every set. Even if it is, you'll only miss 3 or 4 waves.  Heaps of Barneys out there over-estimating their skill level getting in the way though. Fucking annoying. Barrel setting is pretty sweet I must say.



Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #301 on: November 01, 2021, 07:36:03 PM »
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What camera is that bro
[close]

Dunno. It's the in-house photog at the pool
[close]

Ohh yep makes sense, dece photo mate like it’s focused sick

How do those wave pools go? They are doing one up this way but it’s not open yet

I heard you get heaps of waves for the time you’re in there for
[close]

It's pretty sick. Pretty weird wave. No real power up top, so off the lips etc have to be nursed a little. It'll expose any weaknesses in your surfing no doubt. I think 18 sets come through an hour, and if it's not a full sesh, you'll get a wave every set. Even if it is, you'll only miss 3 or 4 waves.  Heaps of Barneys out there over-estimating their skill level getting in the way though. Fucking annoying. Barrel setting is pretty sweet I must say.



Yeah bro, that looks alright for a man made tube hey!

I wanna try it out one day, there’s just nothing like that near me

Tried at that Darwin one but it’s like a kids wave pool you get told off for standing up haha, it’s not like a proper surfing one
listen to cosmic psychos

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #302 on: November 02, 2021, 07:46:41 AM »
What's Greta"s take on wave pools?

Not sure I could ever bring myself to try one.

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #303 on: November 02, 2021, 08:53:00 AM »
This week’s time change means it’ll be dark when I get off work, which means I’ll be restricted to the odd weekend session until it changes back next spring.  Sucks but at least I got a few decent waves in yesterday.  My closest spot has LH point break and an A-frame, thought I was being smart by ditching the left for the A when it started getting crowded, but eventually did the paddle of shame back over once I realized it wasn’t working. 

Another weird thing happened, some random out of towner guy with an Australian accent (def not matty), paddled out and immediately asked me where this other local break was.  I knew vaguely where it was, but told him I was just a beginner and had no idea, which was half true.  I’ve been at it for 3 years and never outright asked another local where a spot was.. am I a dick for not telling him, or was he being a little too forward with his request?

Burt Ward

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #304 on: November 02, 2021, 01:00:27 PM »
  Another weird thing happened, some random out of towner guy with an Australian accent (def not matty), paddled out and immediately asked me where this other local break was.  I knew vaguely where it was, but told him I was just a beginner and had no idea, which was half true.  I’ve been at it for 3 years and never outright asked another local where a spot was.. am I a dick for not telling him, or was he being a little too forward with his request?
 

Absolutely NOT a dick. When somebody asks me shit like this, I will politely explain that i can't tell them that, or I'll get killed.
Now, we used to say we put on our tights to put on the world. So I don't think it tarnishes the image at all.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #305 on: November 02, 2021, 02:27:21 PM »
I wouldn't give that info out either. My friend who lives and surfs on a remote stretch of the Oregon coast will only take me to his spots he won't give me names or directions. "I can't tell you but I'll show you." No way a stranger is getting any intel. The internet makes that shit all too easy anyway.

One of my regular spots is a 15 minute hike in and I love when people ask me how it was back in the car park. I try to be nice but my usual response is "You're about to find out" or "I had to walk down and check and so should you." Or "Got a longboard?" and walk away...

Surfers suck. I don't want to make their lives any easier.

matty_c

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #306 on: November 02, 2021, 06:11:15 PM »
Yeah honestly cunts are on to it like anyone can google anything I probably would just say ‘I don’t know bro’
listen to cosmic psychos

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #307 on: November 02, 2021, 06:38:43 PM »
Probably a noob question, I am after all a noob. Drove out to Lake Ontario with some friends because there were high winds these past couple days. It was fun but I after a couple hours I started to feel nauseous. Earlier this summer I surfed another wind swell spot and the same thing happened, I got seasick. Anybody know if this is common, or have any tricks to deal with it?

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #308 on: November 03, 2021, 06:53:15 AM »
Finally got some waves over 1' on halloween, and didn't see a single shark this time around, and was able to surf a board I recently finished making. I think I maybe would move the center fin back about 1/2" whenever I repeat this board build. It's pretty loose as is so I wound up going with a large fin set when I normally surf mediums in most conditions. Other than that it seems really fun with a mellow single concave all the way through and a flat deck.




mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #309 on: November 03, 2021, 07:13:00 AM »
Probably a noob question, I am after all a noob. Drove out to Lake Ontario with some friends because there were high winds these past couple days. It was fun but I after a couple hours I started to feel nauseous. Earlier this summer I surfed another wind swell spot and the same thing happened, I got seasick. Anybody know if this is common, or have any tricks to deal with it?
Do you also get seasick when surfing other spots/conditions? Are you thinking it has something to do with the combo of windswell and freshwater? Does it happen in the ocean as well?

I brought a skate friend surfing once, and he got seasick after 30 min or so, just from floating around in the Atlantic

I sometimes get seasick on like fishing boats and such, but thankfully I’ve never had a problem when surfing

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #310 on: November 03, 2021, 08:31:04 AM »
Probably a noob question, I am after all a noob. Drove out to Lake Ontario with some friends because there were high winds these past couple days. It was fun but I after a couple hours I started to feel nauseous. Earlier this summer I surfed another wind swell spot and the same thing happened, I got seasick. Anybody know if this is common, or have any tricks to deal with it?

I used to get that! I actually put it down to what I eat for breakfast before surfing. I used to eat a lot of bread. Now I don't. I also make sure to be pretty well hydrated and neck down a coconut water before paddling out (stops the cold water cramping).

Got a little nauseous the other day but I had had a shitty breakfast, paddled out at dawn, forgot my coconut water and surfed over three hours, non-stop paddling and surfing at a spot that is notorious for floating bird shit.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #311 on: November 03, 2021, 04:01:26 PM »
Finally got some waves over 1' on halloween, and didn't see a single shark this time around, and was able to surf a board I recently finished making. I think I maybe would move the center fin back about 1/2" whenever I repeat this board build. It's pretty loose as is so I wound up going with a large fin set when I normally surf mediums in most conditions. Other than that it seems really fun with a mellow single concave all the way through and a flat deck.





are you in aus? jesus christ if 'seeing a shark' was a regular thing for me I would most likely never surf haha. Of course I am aware of their existence and understand I am in their habitat but ignorance is bliss

This week’s time change means it’ll be dark when I get off work, which means I’ll be restricted to the odd weekend session until it changes back next spring.  Sucks but at least I got a few decent waves in yesterday.  My closest spot has LH point break and an A-frame, thought I was being smart by ditching the left for the A when it started getting crowded, but eventually did the paddle of shame back over once I realized it wasn’t working. 

I'm with ya. getting darker earlier sucks. The sunrise also being later makes it harder for me to get out before work now. On that note I did get off work earlier yesterday and had a great afternoon session and got out of the water when it was practically dark out. kinda glassed off around that time and made for such a fun session

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #312 on: November 04, 2021, 07:55:14 AM »
Im in Florida.

sketchyrider

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #313 on: November 04, 2021, 09:11:03 AM »
Im in Florida.

Florida is cursed, the most consistent spot there is literally the shark bite capital of the entire world. its also gotten more and more crowded, for some pretty meh waves

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #314 on: November 04, 2021, 10:06:39 AM »
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Im in Florida.
[close]

Florida is cursed, the most consistent spot there is literally the shark bite capital of the entire world. its also gotten more and more crowded, for some pretty meh waves

Yeah NSB looks fun a lot but way too many sharks.

Fongstarr.

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #315 on: November 04, 2021, 10:20:39 AM »
So I stumbled upon the Surfline IG and noticed Mavericks was going off when we had our storm here in the Bay Area. Dumb question but are waves normally higher and better after a rain storm? We have another storm next week and I sort of want to take some surf photos if the waves get high again.
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Re: Surfing
« Reply #316 on: November 04, 2021, 12:54:53 PM »
Not neccsarily. In fact storms can really mess the surf up. Mavericks seems to like big NW swells. So if Alaska and the PNW are getting hammered by giant winter swells, Mavs could be on. If the storm is too close it can mess the surf up. Generally speaking you want the source of the storm to be hundreds of miles away (this is called fetch). This is why the PNW suffers with a lot of crummy winter storm surf. We are too close to the source. In CA you are often blessed with a longer fetch.

Rain can impact rivermouth sandbars. There are a few classic rivermouth surf breaks that get good after heavy rain but in CA they are notorious for pollution.

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #317 on: November 04, 2021, 12:57:24 PM »
i bought a 6'-4" mini simmons with glassed in fins today.  Made by a local shaper and I have 2 of his boards, an egg and a glider, that I really like so I am looking forward to trying it.  Also bought a Isurus 2.2 mil wetsuit that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3/2 so if we ever get good waves it should be fun.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #318 on: November 04, 2021, 01:02:10 PM »
i bought a 6'-4" mini simmons with glassed in fins today.  Made by a local shaper and I have 2 of his boards, an egg and a glider, that I really like so I am looking forward to trying it.  Also bought a Isurus 2.2 mil wetsuit that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3/2 so if we ever get good waves it should be fun.

sounds sick! got any pics? also what size is your egg and how do you like that?

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #319 on: November 04, 2021, 01:20:13 PM »
Not neccsarily. In fact storms can really mess the surf up. Mavericks seems to like big NW swells. So if Alaska and the PNW are getting hammered by giant winter swells, Mavs could be on. If the storm is too close it can mess the surf up. Generally speaking you want the source of the storm to be hundreds of miles away (this is called fetch). This is why the PNW suffers with a lot of crummy winter storm surf. We are too close to the source. In CA you are often blessed with a longer fetch.

Rain can impact rivermouth sandbars. There are a few classic rivermouth surf breaks that get good after heavy rain but in CA they are notorious for pollution.

Thanks for the input. I guess I'll just check on websites the day before to see if it is worth going out.
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mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #320 on: November 04, 2021, 02:01:18 PM »
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i bought a 6'-4" mini simmons with glassed in fins today.  Made by a local shaper and I have 2 of his boards, an egg and a glider, that I really like so I am looking forward to trying it.  Also bought a Isurus 2.2 mil wetsuit that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3/2 so if we ever get good waves it should be fun.
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sounds sick! got any pics? also what size is your egg and how do you like that?
Yeah man post pics if you can, I'd love to have a look. I got a 6'2" x 22.6" x 2.9" x 46L vernor mini sim a few months ago and it's pretty fun, although i know a lot of people believe mini simmons boards should be a good bit smaller in order to get the proper experience. do you generally ride high volume boards? i do, because i'm not all that skillful and only medium fit, hence the boatlike dimensions of my simmons

i've noticed that when i get a proper bottom turn in it will just take off and skate across the water like crazy, but if i don't pick the speed up properly right away it's easy to bog down the extremely fat nose. would love to try a smaller one, i could imagine the pumping might be paradoxically easier in some ways because you can just kind of manhandle the thing, but idk. either way a cool and wacky board, great for small waves and way easier to toss in my car than a longboard


Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #321 on: November 05, 2021, 10:17:44 AM »
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i bought a 6'-4" mini simmons with glassed in fins today.  Made by a local shaper and I have 2 of his boards, an egg and a glider, that I really like so I am looking forward to trying it.  Also bought a Isurus 2.2 mil wetsuit that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3/2 so if we ever get good waves it should be fun.
[close]

sounds sick! got any pics? also what size is your egg and how do you like that?
[close]
Yeah man post pics if you can, I'd love to have a look. I got a 6'2" x 22.6" x 2.9" x 46L vernor mini sim a few months ago and it's pretty fun, although i know a lot of people believe mini simmons boards should be a good bit smaller in order to get the proper experience. do you generally ride high volume boards? i do, because i'm not all that skillful and only medium fit, hence the boatlike dimensions of my simmons

i've noticed that when i get a proper bottom turn in it will just take off and skate across the water like crazy, but if i don't pick the speed up properly right away it's easy to bog down the extremely fat nose. would love to try a smaller one, i could imagine the pumping might be paradoxically easier in some ways because you can just kind of manhandle the thing, but idk. either way a cool and wacky board, great for small waves and way easier to toss in my car than a longboard

Yeah I ride high volume boards.  I am 6'-4 200lbs and moderately skilled. 

The minisimmons is definitely going to be a weird board but I am looking forward to it.  I like the whole idea of planeing hulls At 6-4 this seems like it is outside of the normal realm of minisimmons and when I had talked to the shaper about a bigger simmons a few years ago he though they got sketchy over 6' but I guess he changed his mind.   The resin is supposed to look distressed
This is mine:



His more normal minisimmons:



My egg is 7' and really fun. single fin very thick.  similar to this one but one color.

« Last Edit: November 05, 2021, 10:25:43 AM by Blue Fescue »

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #322 on: November 09, 2021, 04:47:58 PM »
Latest pickups;





Couldn’t financially justify balling out on O’Neil, Xcel, or Solite gear.. hoping these will do the trick for a few good winter sessions.  Water gets as low as 2c up here but I managed last winter with cheap ass 5mm Decathlon gloves/boots, these should be a step up and I can always add layers under if need be.

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #323 on: November 12, 2021, 05:54:24 AM »
i feel for you cold water surfers...waves often look real nice but it would take a massive mental effort just to paddle out

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #324 on: December 10, 2021, 09:41:40 AM »
i feel for you cold water surfers...waves often look real nice but it would take a massive mental effort just to paddle out
'
I paddled out early this morning and it was super cold out down here for socal. my feet hurt just walking on the pavement back to my car. much respect for you cold water peeps. that's some real dedication that my fragile ass can't handle

also having a growing hole in my wetsuit isn't helping anything

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #325 on: December 10, 2021, 11:14:20 AM »
I don't mind the cold I just wish there were waves.  Seems like it has been flat forever.

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #326 on: December 10, 2021, 12:40:35 PM »
Winter surfing in NJ can be pretty epic, really thins the crowd out. Even mediocre conditions are a joy when you have em nearly to yourself. Paddling out doesn’t bother me, as I generally get changed in the car. Getting changed afterwards, on the other hand, is miserable.

Gonna be heading out that way for Xmas soon, looks like there will be some swell to catch, I’m hyped. Then off to Hawaii in January, first time.

Will it be extremely sick? Will I slice my foot open on some coral? Only time can tell. Having grown up on beach breaks even the rocky points in CA have definitely been the cause of some dinged boards and stubbed toes. Thinking I might buy some reef shoes and just accept that I look kooky as shit.

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #327 on: December 10, 2021, 01:22:15 PM »
My parents live in Ocean City, NJ...and watching when it's firing in the winter makes it look worthwhile. Still though, cold water is tough to deal with. Maybe my blood got thin from having been in FL for near 20 years.

homicidalpsychojunglecat

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #328 on: December 11, 2021, 05:27:41 PM »
Having a pretty epic run of waves here in NZ. I live in the north of the country and our west coast has been solid for weeks and have had a week long run at least on our east cast (way more fickle) and more to come.

Thanks to La Nina I guess. This time last year was trash in comparison.

Just got myself a Christenson fish in 5'8", could probably have gone to 5'6" if I wanted it for bigger days. At any rate, it's an incredible board. Has replaced my groveller and can surf it in bigger stuff as well - although struggles on steeper takeoffs.

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #329 on: December 13, 2021, 05:57:32 AM »
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.




single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".