Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 31932 times)

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Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #330 on: December 13, 2021, 06:27:06 AM »
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.




single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".

That’s one of the sickest looking boards I’ve seen, the skate deck design is actually genius.

Haven’t been out in 2 weeks, really hoping to this upcoming weekend.  Forecast yesterday was like 10ft @ 12s with crazy cross-off winds, which I wasn’t going near after the previous night’s family dinner where I drank 12 beers.

lemonchicken91

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #331 on: December 13, 2021, 06:42:38 AM »
That board looks amazing!

To go with the skate theme you could even do a concave deck on the next one!
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #332 on: December 13, 2021, 06:53:52 AM »
That board looks amazing!

To go with the skate theme you could even do a concave deck on the next one!
thanks! I've done concave decks on a few boards and I really like them.


Expand Quote
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.




single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".
[close]

That’s one of the sickest looking boards I’ve seen, the skate deck design is actually genius.

Haven’t been out in 2 weeks, really hoping to this upcoming weekend.  Forecast yesterday was like 10ft @ 12s with crazy cross-off winds, which I wasn’t going near after the previous night’s family dinner where I drank 12 beers.
thank you! 10ft at 12sec seems pretty wild.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #333 on: December 13, 2021, 08:30:53 AM »
@finecojeffe that thing looks so sick! I love the skate influenced color.

I ride a 5'10 mayhem retro quad a lot that looks very similar. love it so much

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #334 on: December 13, 2021, 08:41:59 AM »
@finecojeffe that thing looks so sick! I love the skate influenced color.

I ride a 5'10 mayhem retro quad a lot that looks very similar. love it so much

I absolutely got some inspiration from the RNF though more than the retro, but wanted to go with the quad setup instead of the 2+1 the rnf has. I placed the boxes a little further apart than the retro has because I planned to use the fcs performer quad set and not a split keel. Also I kept the swallow a little shallower than the retro but deeper than the rnf. The tail width is definitely narrower than the retro too. I guess it's kind of hybrid of the two.

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #335 on: December 13, 2021, 10:07:16 AM »
Expand Quote
That board looks amazing!

To go with the skate theme you could even do a concave deck on the next one!
[close]
thanks! I've done concave decks on a few boards and I really like them.


Expand Quote
Expand Quote
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.




single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".
[close]

That’s one of the sickest looking boards I’ve seen, the skate deck design is actually genius.

Haven’t been out in 2 weeks, really hoping to this upcoming weekend.  Forecast yesterday was like 10ft @ 12s with crazy cross-off winds, which I wasn’t going near after the previous night’s family dinner where I drank 12 beers.
[close]
thank you! 10ft at 12sec seems pretty wild.

nice work @finecojeffe ! Love to try and shape a board one day but I know I lack the patience. You glass it yourself also?

La Nina is killing us in Oregon. A few windows here and there but a lot of storm surf... Looks to be settling down later this week.

Got a work bonus and placed an order for Channel Islands Rocket Wide Squash... Probably won't get it until later in Spring...

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #336 on: December 13, 2021, 11:57:14 AM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
That board looks amazing!

To go with the skate theme you could even do a concave deck on the next one!
[close]
thanks! I've done concave decks on a few boards and I really like them.


Expand Quote
Expand Quote
new quad I'm working on. It's glossy because it hasn't been sanded yet, so it will be dulled down a lot. I guess I tried to make it somewhat like an old school skateboard with a factory grip job.




single concave up front into a double through the fins with a little vee out the tail. Minor swallow. It's 5'5" x 19.9" x 2.4".
[close]

That’s one of the sickest looking boards I’ve seen, the skate deck design is actually genius.

Haven’t been out in 2 weeks, really hoping to this upcoming weekend.  Forecast yesterday was like 10ft @ 12s with crazy cross-off winds, which I wasn’t going near after the previous night’s family dinner where I drank 12 beers.
[close]
thank you! 10ft at 12sec seems pretty wild.
[close]

nice work @finecojeffe ! Love to try and shape a board one day but I know I lack the patience. You glass it yourself also?

La Nina is killing us in Oregon. A few windows here and there but a lot of storm surf... Looks to be settling down later this week.

Got a work bonus and placed an order for Channel Islands Rocket Wide Squash... Probably won't get it until later in Spring...

yes, I did all of the steps on this...shaped it, painted it, made my own laminates, and glassed it. Rocket wide squash looks too fun. I've only had one CI board in the past (the Mini) and I put pressure dents in it all over it would up looking like a golf ball. It was a fun shape though.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #337 on: December 13, 2021, 12:28:57 PM »
Yeah, I am aware of CI's glass jobs.  I upgraded to the Standard glassing 6/4/4 and S Cloth. This one is also Epoxy over EPS. I'd never order an Ultralight or Team light. I like heavier boards typically but the heavier glass job will be offset by the construction on this one, I think. Spinetek, no stinger, carbon strips... we'll see. Like I said, I got a work bonus so decided to roll the dice on a fancy alternative tech...

Most my boards are from a local shaper friend and he always does 6/4/6 S Cloth for me.

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #338 on: December 15, 2021, 11:23:13 PM »
Picked up a used catch surf softtop for pretty cheap, in great shape. It's a 5'6, quad and performs surprisingly well. There'll be ice coming down any day now (im in the st lawrence river) and it just destroys fiberglass. I'm looking forward to not having to clean epoxy drips this year..

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #339 on: December 16, 2021, 09:23:28 AM »
just had my first sesh in the waco pool this week, truly weird vibe. not about to replace ocean surfing for me because the experience of chilling in some open water or at the beach is just missing. some people were clearly frothing on the addictive qualities of the wave but the organization of it all, being in a circuit and waiting your turn, etc, just feels like swim practice or something to me. The wave is pretty fast and hollow, which is cool for working on maneuvers. but it's short, and it's shaped like a horseshoe (bending away from you as you go down the line), so it loses power rather quickly. missed the first few waves entirely because you can't see em coming like you would in an ocean. you just listen for the machine to start up, spot a little ripple behind you, and start paddling while it jacks up over the course of just a few meters.

...but i'll definitely be back, lol

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #340 on: December 16, 2021, 10:01:13 AM »
interesting to read 1st person review of the place. I've been wanting to try that wavepool for a while.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #341 on: December 16, 2021, 07:04:11 PM »
Friend of mine who is a good surfer, can read waves really well and has a good efficient take off said he could not dial in Waco... Nice to see him humbled...

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #342 on: December 17, 2021, 10:04:18 AM »
@Frank and Fred @mj23
damn, cool to hear about that waco pool. interesting that it is hard to read the set coming through, makes sense though. I just looked at the pricing - it is expensive but not as bad as i thought it'd be. i'd love to try it out

i am headed down to rosarito to surf for the weekend, super stoked. just got a new 4/3mm ripcurl omega for cheap(my 3/2 that i have had for almost 3 years finally has a hole in it) and picking up booties to deal with the rocks down there as well

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #343 on: December 17, 2021, 10:15:41 AM »
@Huell Howser

Sick. I will be there in February. My same friend has a surf shack at K38. Jammed full of all manner of boards. We will hole up there for a week and hopefully score some right handers...

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #344 on: December 17, 2021, 10:31:25 AM »
@Frank and Fred hell yea! I have the same situation(buddy with a trailer at k38) haha. Wonder if we are staying at the same spot

I'll report back but I'm sure you'll get some good waves. Last time I was out there in August a good swell came through, had a great time

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #345 on: December 17, 2021, 10:45:46 AM »
@Huell Howser Oh shit that is funny. Yeah summer south swells are best but its a nice winter respite from Oregon... Here are some photos I took on past visits to get you amped...





Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #346 on: December 17, 2021, 11:40:38 AM »
wow, those shots got me so hyped @Frank and Fred . hot damn, that had to be an awesome sesh

it does look like we might be staying at the same spot. Hard for me to remember if that cross in the first photo is within the same trailer park or not

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #347 on: December 17, 2021, 12:57:02 PM »
First time out in 3 weeks today, 10C air/7C water, finally started to get comfortable after about 45mins.. then board to face.  Didn’t need stitches but split the inside of my lip bad enough to call it a day.  Meanwhile, my old coworker is posting footy of herself on the dreamiest lefts at Chicama right now.

botefdunn

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #348 on: December 19, 2021, 01:44:29 PM »
Those pics are dreamy, thanks frank and fred

RENTSTRIKE

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #349 on: December 20, 2021, 02:03:35 PM »
How do those of you that surf on the PNW like it? I've spent my whole life surfing in NJ and have been thinking about a move to the portland or area (or preferably somewhere a little west of there). water seems chilly, but the coastline must offer something for every combo of wind/swell direction.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #350 on: December 20, 2021, 02:26:38 PM »
The PNW can be a dreamy place to surf. It can also be hell. There is no shortage of swell. You can count on your hand the number times a year it gets completely flat. The water temp stays pretty cold all year. But you can also experience 45F water in June and 60F water in Feb. You have to pay attention to the currents and wind patterns to predict water temp. Then you have lots of winds. So you need headlands, jetties, coves etc to hide from giant storm swells and winds, and frankly there are not enough of these. Typically it is North wind Spring through Fall. Then a few months of offshore East winds and South all winter with a few offshore days.

We have some world class surf spots, but lots and lots of open featureless beach break. There is a lot to explore and still some pretty low key spots but the general rule of thumb is 'don't leave waves to look for waves.' You will mostly have to surf the same dozen or so spots everyone else surfs. Some are very welcoming, others are insanely crowded and others you are going to get into some level of altercation just by paddling out. You will often see perfect big empty surf and wonder why no one is on it and then find out the hard way, why. Lots of water, short period swell, harsh rips and small windows of good surf.

However, when the swell is small enough and the winds ease up you have hundreds of potential peaks up and down the coast. Some of my most memorable sessions have been finding perfect little sandbars with just a couple of friends. Its worth poking around. Sometimes, you score insane waves by accident. You find the right jetty on the right day with no one around but the seals (and whatever is chasing them).

Portland is not the best place to be a surfer but you can get to most of the best PNW spots for weekend strikes no problem. Seaside is about 1hr 45 mins away, Lincoln City a little more. There are more remote spots to scope around Coos Bay and the south coast. Finally, you can go up to WA and Van Isle where the giant winter swells wrap in to become perfect little boulder point breaks.... but good luck on timing those properly...

If you come here. A good hooded 4/3mm is mostly OK. Bring boards with more volume than you might think you need. You will paddle. A lot. A quiver is necessary. You'll need a high volume groveler or longboard for summer days, a beefy semigun for winter chaos and hopefully, a performance board for the days you really score. A lot of our waves are big and mushy so don't expect legit barrels except for a few notable spots where you will not be welcomed. Localism is real here. Some of these dudes live in the 1980s and will harass the shit out of you. Cars have been vandalized. Violence does occur. Learn ahead of time what you could be dealing with and time your paddle out accordingly. Generally speaking unless you are at a well established spot with a crowd don't paddle out on a group of three grumpy dudes who had it to themselves before you showed. Go to the next peak down...

I've surfed here 20 years and this coast still surprises the shit out of me. I live for the days where the bros and I stumble on our own remote peak and surf our brains out for hours. Still happens. If all else fails bring your skateboard, hiking boots or fishing rod. The PNW coast is a mind-melter on all fronts.

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #351 on: December 22, 2021, 08:04:30 AM »
anyone surf in a zip front wetsuit jacket? Through no fault of my own my size medium wetsuit top has shrunk (I've gained weight) and it rides up always like a crop top shirt. I need a new top. South FL winters often mean a wetsuit top but no need for a full suit. I was looking at the xcel sharkskin 2mm zip front top, but not sure if I want to pull the trigger on a jacket with a zipper in front for the reasons of it not being actually comfortable.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #352 on: December 23, 2021, 10:10:00 AM »
The PNW can be a dreamy place to surf. It can also be hell. There is no shortage of swell. You can count on your hand the number times a year it gets completely flat. The water temp stays pretty cold all year. But you can also experience 45F water in June and 60F water in Feb. You have to pay attention to the currents and wind patterns to predict water temp. Then you have lots of winds. So you need headlands, jetties, coves etc to hide from giant storm swells and winds, and frankly there are not enough of these. Typically it is North wind Spring through Fall. Then a few months of offshore East winds and South all winter with a few offshore days.

We have some world class surf spots, but lots and lots of open featureless beach break. There is a lot to explore and still some pretty low key spots but the general rule of thumb is 'don't leave waves to look for waves.' You will mostly have to surf the same dozen or so spots everyone else surfs. Some are very welcoming, others are insanely crowded and others you are going to get into some level of altercation just by paddling out. You will often see perfect big empty surf and wonder why no one is on it and then find out the hard way, why. Lots of water, short period swell, harsh rips and small windows of good surf.

However, when the swell is small enough and the winds ease up you have hundreds of potential peaks up and down the coast. Some of my most memorable sessions have been finding perfect little sandbars with just a couple of friends. Its worth poking around. Sometimes, you score insane waves by accident. You find the right jetty on the right day with no one around but the seals (and whatever is chasing them).

Portland is not the best place to be a surfer but you can get to most of the best PNW spots for weekend strikes no problem. Seaside is about 1hr 45 mins away, Lincoln City a little more. There are more remote spots to scope around Coos Bay and the south coast. Finally, you can go up to WA and Van Isle where the giant winter swells wrap in to become perfect little boulder point breaks.... but good luck on timing those properly...

If you come here. A good hooded 4/3mm is mostly OK. Bring boards with more volume than you might think you need. You will paddle. A lot. A quiver is necessary. You'll need a high volume groveler or longboard for summer days, a beefy semigun for winter chaos and hopefully, a performance board for the days you really score. A lot of our waves are big and mushy so don't expect legit barrels except for a few notable spots where you will not be welcomed. Localism is real here. Some of these dudes live in the 1980s and will harass the shit out of you. Cars have been vandalized. Violence does occur. Learn ahead of time what you could be dealing with and time your paddle out accordingly. Generally speaking unless you are at a well established spot with a crowd don't paddle out on a group of three grumpy dudes who had it to themselves before you showed. Go to the next peak down...

I've surfed here 20 years and this coast still surprises the shit out of me. I live for the days where the bros and I stumble on our own remote peak and surf our brains out for hours. Still happens. If all else fails bring your skateboard, hiking boots or fishing rod. The PNW coast is a mind-melter on all fronts.

really enjoyed readin this PNW overview, thanks for that! I definitely gotta get up there at some point to surf

anyone surf in a zip front wetsuit jacket? Through no fault of my own my size medium wetsuit top has shrunk (I've gained weight) and it rides up always like a crop top shirt. I need a new top. South FL winters often mean a wetsuit top but no need for a full suit. I was looking at the xcel sharkskin 2mm zip front top, but not sure if I want to pull the trigger on a jacket with a zipper in front for the reasons of it not being actually comfortable.

never tried a wetsuit jacket just the pull over short sleeve wetsuit top

@Frank and Fred update on K38 - right as we were about to leave my buddy realized his passport had expired which was a huge bummer lmao. split decision we ended up still going down south and stayed/surfed in Cardiff which ended up being super sick. checking the cams it looked like the swell didn't look too great in rosarito so may have been a blessing in disguise(although was lookin forward to chillin in mexico). I gotta get back down to cardiff to surf, low wind all day and plenty of open beaches to choose from. met up with a buddy that surfs a lot down there and he was saying that the whole SD area has a bad summer season and really picks up in fall/winter

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #353 on: December 23, 2021, 11:17:45 AM »
@Huell Howser LMK when you come up. I can share a little more info that will help you find some waves. Typically late summer through December is the magic season... except during La Nina... But you can score any time of year if you know when and where to look.

Bummer about k38. Not so long ago your buddy probably could have rolled the dice without a passport but not a good idea these days.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #354 on: December 29, 2021, 10:54:46 AM »
@Frank and Fred sounds good, appreciate it man! and yeah, we decided it wasn't worth him getting pulled into secondary for hours just for a quick trip. hoping to get down there soon again

the shaper I ordered my egg from said it just got back from getting glassed so I am picking it up today. so stoked. will post some pics of it later! been raining here almost every day for the last week so I won't be able to take it out for a few more days.

ordered this Skip Frye 8.5 for the egg. anyone tried one?

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #355 on: January 03, 2022, 06:34:39 PM »
sorry for double post but here is my egg:




so stoked on how it came out. Haven't got a chance to take it out(been sick) and I am waiting on my fin to get here. hoping to paddle out sometime this week or upcoming weekend

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #356 on: January 03, 2022, 08:35:48 PM »
Nice. That should be a really fun versatile wave catcher.

Surfed New Years Day on my 7'6" Twin Fin. Lots of fun. Super cold.

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #357 on: January 04, 2022, 05:09:54 AM »
the egg looks great, love the color

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #358 on: January 04, 2022, 08:45:29 AM »
Thing looks super fun! What’s the underside like? I have a fineline MP with a similar outline And a displacement hull... it was my first board and a terrible thing to learn on (especially in east coast beach breaks) but I don’t want to get rid of it until I try it out in some proper point break waves

I just got back from visiting family in NJ and LA for Xmas. Caught a nice shoulder high surprise swell Christmas Day in NJ, got totally skunked in LA by all the rain. Couldn’t pay me to get in with all that disgusting runoff, plus the sewage spill... yuck.

When I was in NJ I also got a nice deal on a 5’10” x 22” x 3” mini Simmons with glassed on twins. First time riding something so short, and first time on a twin. Paddling is a lot of work, but I figure it’s a nice board to leave at my moms house and pull out when waves are small.

But yo... riding a twin is hard. Shit slips and slides all around. I thought it would be at least as grippy as my retro single fin egg/hull... but it ain’t! Tips?

Also... has anyone ever rented boards in Hawaii? My gf’s parents are taking us there soon and I don’t want to piss them off by checking boards (they’re paying, and I want to be as low-impact as possible so they don’t regret it, lol). I just hope I don’t get stuck riding a pop out NSP or something.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #359 on: January 04, 2022, 10:32:22 AM »
@mj23 Twins rule but can be bit tricky to dial in. Min Simmons aint called 'bars of soap' for nothing. I've never surfed one but I have surfed a few twin keel fish, performance shortboard twins and mid length twins. And the key is a good take off. Get in early and be solid on your bottom turn. Surf them off the tail, at least until you set your line. Do not try to crank them like a shortboard thruster. nurse the turns a bit until you can figure out what you can get away with. Stay low. Bend at the knees not at the waist. If you look at footage of people ripping a mini sims or twin keel fish its all about extension and compression of the knees. You are going to get some insane projection out of that thing when you dial it in.Personally, I think you'll want to find a nice forehand point break or at least some waves you can surf front side with a lot of open face and wall to them, not sectiony beach break closeouts. Anyway, you'll know what I'm talking about when you feel that spurt of speed after you come off the bottom.

How heavy are you? 5'10 x 22" x 3" is a lot of foam in that shape. You'll need some weight and leg strength to really lay a rail down. I have a similar dim board but at 200lbs I can wrestle it into submission.