Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 31703 times)

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mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #360 on: January 04, 2022, 11:00:03 AM »
Thanks for the detailed response, that all makes a lot of sense. Unfortunately my home break in NJ is a fast and hollow beach break, one of the more consistent and punchy waves in the region but not ideal for a big open face. There’s one decent point an hour or so away, but it needs a bigger swell to work. And in my current location (Texas), forget about it. Currently trying to decide which day of 3 foot wind swell is worth driving out for  :'(

It’ll be a while before I get a chance to really dive into the twin zone I guess. Hopefully this summer I’ll be back on a proper coast.

And regarding the dims— I’m 155lb, so it’ll probably be tough to set a rail in properly. But I’m so infatuated with the speed I get when it actually works. So weird, a bad takeoff and bottom turn is bog city, but on the rare occasion when I get it right the thing absolutely zooms

rawr1922

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #361 on: January 27, 2022, 12:15:53 PM »
Haven't surfed in a couple months. Been waiting for a mellow day to get back in the water however nonstop 4'-6'.  Going out today, can't wait to get wrecked.  Always takes me a little time to get my groove back. Just takes one wave for everything to click again   

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #362 on: January 27, 2022, 02:37:42 PM »
4’-6’ is dream conditions when I’m on a good run, but a little large when out of practice for sure.  Hope you scored some good ones and didn’t get rocked too hard!  I haven’t been out in a month for a myriad of different reasons, hoping for a mellow return soon as well.

homicidalpsychojunglecat

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #363 on: January 29, 2022, 04:01:54 PM »
Dream run in New Zealand continues. I've been surfing probably four days a week for the past three months. Could be surfing more but work and needing a rest every now and then - plus some skate time - have to be considered too!

finecojeffe

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #364 on: January 31, 2022, 08:06:19 AM »
I'm jealous. Any time theres waves I'm working, or have other obligations. I've had 3 sessions in all of January, each was barely rideable on a bigger board too. There was a good swell on Saturday that I had to miss too.

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #365 on: January 31, 2022, 08:16:06 AM »
This La Nina hasn't been as bad as I feared. I managed five sessions in January... not bad for a Val kook. Even scored a classic Oregon spot weekend before last with just four of us out. I was not on my game and was shortboarding for the first time in a long time but managed to snag a few gems. The mid-lengths have really been a savior for head to toe neoprene and heavy water, strong current days while I am not in optimum paddle-shape.

I'm off to Baja in a week. Early forecast doesn't look epic but at a minimum it will be a week of longboarding and fish cruising on a right hand point in warm (for me) water.

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #366 on: January 31, 2022, 08:45:39 AM »
Anybody have any advice for la saladita?  there hasn't really been any waves here in awhile and am not looking forward to the paddle.  Trying to decide whether to take boards or rent them.  I have been told there are nice rentals there and I really don't want to haul longboards so am leaning that way.

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #367 on: January 31, 2022, 09:18:48 AM »
Last time I was at La Saladita was before there was anything there beyond a local village. Very fun wave. The paddle is long but pretty easy. Longboard', mid length or some kind of fish will do you right.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #368 on: January 31, 2022, 09:27:50 AM »
This La Nina hasn't been as bad as I feared. I managed five sessions in January... not bad for a Val kook. Even scored a classic Oregon spot weekend before last with just four of us out. I was not on my game and was shortboarding for the first time in a long time but managed to snag a few gems. The mid-lengths have really been a savior for head to toe neoprene and heavy water, strong current days while I am not in optimum paddle-shape.

I'm off to Baja in a week. Early forecast doesn't look epic but at a minimum it will be a week of longboarding and fish cruising on a right hand point in warm (for me) water.

So jealous, hope a swell comes through for ya. Sounds like you'll have an excellent time regardless

I got two sessions in last week. Wish I had time to get more early morning weekday sessions in but work has been starting earlier lately

also just thought of this. I used to live in Japan and there was one mexican spot that had amazing fish tacos I used to go often in the small city I lived in at the time. The owner was a japanese dude who lived in mexico for a few years studying cooking. A few years back he opened up a ramen shop in Ensenada haha. I haven't been yet but it looks amazing, might be worth checking out if you have the time
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mexipon+Ramen+%26+Curry+Bar/@31.860351,-116.6451384,12.92z/data=!4m12!1m6!3m5!1s0x80d89266fb2ffff9:0xa434f1a6eaa2189!2sMexipon+Ramen+%26+Curry+Bar!8m2!3d31.862788!4d-116.6283199!3m4!1s0x80d89266fb2ffff9:0xa434f1a6eaa2189!8m2!3d31.862788!4d-116.6283199

mexican spot in japan and ramen spot in mexico. sounds ass backwards but its awesome

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #369 on: February 01, 2022, 06:48:54 PM »
Just got back from 9 days in Hawaii. Rented a medium-crappy epoxy midlength for my week on the big island and some absolute dogshit 11ft nsp longboard for 2 days at Waikiki.

Much easier to get a wave at Canoes Waikiki than I expected. Crowded as fuck but 90% or more of them are basically stationary, and they’re so impressed when you whiz by them. Did a little cross stepping (first time, never really longboarded before) and got hoots from the kooks, made me feel pretty cool even though I actually kinda suck.

Big Island was a different beast. Spent a lot of time spot hunting. Managed to score one sesh with only 3 other guys at a secluded lava reef with a sharp shallow lava bottom and fast chest high rights. I was scared of pissing off the locals just by paddling out, but they ended up being real chill and calling me into some waves. Didn’t stick around long because it was a bit above my pay grade, but I managed to catch a few and make it out in one piece, so I was psyched.

Now that I’ve had a taste of surf travel with uncrowded waves I’m absolutely friending for another fix. Starting to think about a trip to Baja Sur. Seems like the quickest, cheapest direct flight option from TX.

rawr1922

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #370 on: February 02, 2022, 12:03:38 PM »
Just got back from 9 days in Hawaii. Rented a medium-crappy epoxy midlength for my week on the big island and some absolute dogshit 11ft nsp longboard for 2 days at Waikiki.

Much easier to get a wave at Canoes Waikiki than I expected. Crowded as fuck but 90% or more of them are basically stationary, and they’re so impressed when you whiz by them
Classic Hawaii experience lol. Big boards are so fun in town

Krishna3k

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #371 on: February 04, 2022, 05:27:54 AM »
one word SHARKS fuck the water lol staying away from that shit had a homie that got attacked once

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #372 on: February 10, 2022, 09:41:32 AM »
@mj23 sounds like a great time. I gotta get out to hawaii, still never been. even if it is just to mess around on a shitty foamer trying to dodge human speed bumps I bet i'd have a great time just taking it all in haha

a nice swell came through socal. had a great session this morning before work at the crack of dawn. powerful offshore wind helping waves peel and causing crazy backspray. took out my fish instead of the newer egg which luckily, was the better choice. during one wave I caught I could barely tell what was going on as I was riding down the line because I was getting smacked in the face by excess water haha

anyone else been getting out lately?

Coastal Fever

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #373 on: February 10, 2022, 10:32:10 AM »
Surfing before work sounds awesome, but also feel like I’d struggle to stay awake afterwards haha.

Sun’s setting around 5:30pm now in the NE so been able to go out after work again.  Yesterday started off a little dicey with the waves and crowd both a little out of my comfort zone, but as it got darker things mellowed out just enough and I caught a great one (for me) in, decent speed and a couple solid bottom/top turns.  Made freezing my ass off for 2hrs worth it.

I love to research and daydream about buying a new board, but given my level I think I’m best off sticking with the Torq 7’4 for awhile.  It really does strike a good balance of float/maneuverability/durability, and I still stand to learn a lot on it.  Maybe I’ll try renting a fish this summer.

bluntfullofmid

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #374 on: February 10, 2022, 01:00:19 PM »
I moved to NYC a couple months ago and recently got bit by the surfing bug. does anyone have any reccomendations for a good shop to buy a board and gear? also any good spots to surf besides the generic "the rockaways" or "long island" answer?
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Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #375 on: February 10, 2022, 01:28:03 PM »
Surfing before work sounds awesome, but also feel like I’d struggle to stay awake afterwards haha.

Sun’s setting around 5:30pm now in the NE so been able to go out after work again.  Yesterday started off a little dicey with the waves and crowd both a little out of my comfort zone, but as it got darker things mellowed out just enough and I caught a great one (for me) in, decent speed and a couple solid bottom/top turns.  Made freezing my ass off for 2hrs worth it.

I love to research and daydream about buying a new board, but given my level I think I’m best off sticking with the Torq 7’4 for awhile.  It really does strike a good balance of float/maneuverability/durability, and I still stand to learn a lot on it.  Maybe I’ll try renting a fish this summer.

its a great way to start the day for sure. and yep most def get a little tired. I usually catch a big nap(30-40 min) during lunch time and then have a cup of coffee after lunch and I am good to go

and i'd say that's cool you recognize you still got some stuff to learn on that 7'4 before buying your next board. I think that's a good call to try a few different boards if you can, that way you can get a better idea of what you'd like to buy when the time comes. i love my fish, it has a good amount of foam under my chest so its an easy paddle(for a shorter board) to get into waves. I can definitely see how much more responsive my fish now vs my single fin egg. love both but two different kinds of surfing for sure

@dudeonthecouch i think @mj23 was an east coaster so he might be able to provide ya with some info

bluntfullofmid

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #376 on: February 10, 2022, 02:07:22 PM »
Expand Quote
Surfing before work sounds awesome, but also feel like I’d struggle to stay awake afterwards haha.

Sun’s setting around 5:30pm now in the NE so been able to go out after work again.  Yesterday started off a little dicey with the waves and crowd both a little out of my comfort zone, but as it got darker things mellowed out just enough and I caught a great one (for me) in, decent speed and a couple solid bottom/top turns.  Made freezing my ass off for 2hrs worth it.

I love to research and daydream about buying a new board, but given my level I think I’m best off sticking with the Torq 7’4 for awhile.  It really does strike a good balance of float/maneuverability/durability, and I still stand to learn a lot on it.  Maybe I’ll try renting a fish this summer.
[close]

its a great way to start the day for sure. and yep most def get a little tired. I usually catch a big nap(30-40 min) during lunch time and then have a cup of coffee after lunch and I am good to go

and i'd say that's cool you recognize you still got some stuff to learn on that 7'4 before buying your next board. I think that's a good call to try a few different boards if you can, that way you can get a better idea of what you'd like to buy when the time comes. i love my fish, it has a good amount of foam under my chest so its an easy paddle(for a shorter board) to get into waves. I can definitely see how much more responsive my fish now vs my single fin egg. love both but two different kinds of surfing for sure

@dudeonthecouch i think @mj23 was an east coaster so he might be able to provide ya with some info
@mj23 could ya help pointing me in the right direction?
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One-last-question

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #377 on: February 10, 2022, 02:46:21 PM »
Does anyone know of a surfing forum that has a similar vibe to slap? I’ve poked around a little and a lot of them seem super lame, plus the surfer.com forum has gigantic ads that make mobile usage basically impossible.
forum.realsurf.com but I dont think they use it as much as you guys use slap.. also I'm new here I don't know how to post links

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #378 on: February 10, 2022, 06:15:11 PM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Surfing before work sounds awesome, but also feel like I’d struggle to stay awake afterwards haha.

Sun’s setting around 5:30pm now in the NE so been able to go out after work again.  Yesterday started off a little dicey with the waves and crowd both a little out of my comfort zone, but as it got darker things mellowed out just enough and I caught a great one (for me) in, decent speed and a couple solid bottom/top turns.  Made freezing my ass off for 2hrs worth it.

I love to research and daydream about buying a new board, but given my level I think I’m best off sticking with the Torq 7’4 for awhile.  It really does strike a good balance of float/maneuverability/durability, and I still stand to learn a lot on it.  Maybe I’ll try renting a fish this summer.
[close]

its a great way to start the day for sure. and yep most def get a little tired. I usually catch a big nap(30-40 min) during lunch time and then have a cup of coffee after lunch and I am good to go

and i'd say that's cool you recognize you still got some stuff to learn on that 7'4 before buying your next board. I think that's a good call to try a few different boards if you can, that way you can get a better idea of what you'd like to buy when the time comes. i love my fish, it has a good amount of foam under my chest so its an easy paddle(for a shorter board) to get into waves. I can definitely see how much more responsive my fish now vs my single fin egg. love both but two different kinds of surfing for sure

@dudeonthecouch i think @mj23 was an east coaster so he might be able to provide ya with some info
[close]
@mj23 could ya help pointing me in the right direction?
Sure— for NYC I would say just get out there as much as you now before the summer crowds show up. It gets fucking harsh.

For LI I honestly don’t know, never went

For NJ I grew up very close to one of the two most well known spots, both which are easy to scope on Surfline. Jersey summers are tough as well, with paid beach badges and crowds and rules against surfing from 9 to 5. So you gotta plan around that. And the shore cops are real dicks if you have NY plates because they need to suck up a whole years worth of income during a 3 month tourist season. The consistent spots are crowded and the uncrowded spots are fickle. But it’s absolutely wonderful in the fall.

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #379 on: February 15, 2022, 10:25:50 AM »
Just got back from a solid trip, south of the boarder. Lucked into a legit out-of-season south swell. Surfed a 7'10" fun gun on the big days and a fishy 6'2" on the smaller days. Two sessions a day in warm (for me) water, balmy air temps and glassy green conditions unloading on Baja Norte reefs. Pretty stoked.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #380 on: February 15, 2022, 11:05:51 AM »
@Frank and Fred man, if you were down there last weekend I am sure you had such a good time. I caught a couple of great sessions last week. Any pics from the swell down there at k38?

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #381 on: February 15, 2022, 11:07:00 AM »
Some crappy cell phone pics. Did not take my proper camera and lens this time as I wanted to travel light. Kind of regret that...

Blue Fescue

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #382 on: February 23, 2022, 07:34:56 AM »
Back from a week in La Saladita.  It was a lot of fun.  Rented longboards from Lourdes.  It was $100 for the week and the boards were really nice, I got a 10' CJ Nelson that was basically in perfect condition. 

The wave can be crowded but it was fine.  We got up early and would paddle out when there were just a few people.  Around 11 the wind would get on it and we would usually go back out sometime later in the day.  The flights from the southeast US were brutal though. 

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #383 on: February 24, 2022, 09:50:46 AM »
sounds so fun^ a long baja trip is definitely on my list for this upcoming spring/summer. really hoping to inherit the trailer we go to down at k38(friend's family that doesn't go anymore) alongside my friend

since i've been reading the book barbarian days i've been looking at old footage of spots the author frequented back in the 60s/70s. came across the encyclopedia of surfing vimeo page and there is so many gems
*video can't be shared as an iframe for some reason but can click and watch it on vimeo
https://vimeo.com/250670892

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #384 on: March 12, 2022, 09:30:41 AM »


got my new custom Rocket Wide Squash in the mail yesterday.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #385 on: March 15, 2022, 09:33:49 AM »
@Frank and Fred damn that thing looks fun to ride! dig the color. what are the specs?

Frank and Fred

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #386 on: March 15, 2022, 09:53:30 AM »
6'0 x 20.75 x 2 3/4". I'm old and 200lbs. This will be my 'performance' board from about thigh high to a little overhead. I hope... Been having a lot of fun on midsized boards and twins but I have my most fun on beefed up stubby shortboards.

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #387 on: March 15, 2022, 11:57:48 AM »
That sounds great. Haha I feel ya, that is probably as 'performance' as I would go. Still get into waves a little more easily with that foam and have way more responsiveness than a midlength. you're gonna have a good time on that thing for sure

Huell Howser

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #388 on: March 29, 2022, 09:13:35 AM »
had a cool thing happen - I bought a 3/2 ripcurl ebomb wetsuit in 2019 sometime and it lasted me about 2 & 1/2 years then finally got a little hole in the leg and thinned out in the crotch. I sent it to ripcurl to get it fixed January this year and was told it would be returned in about 4-6 weeks. I finally emailed them after 3 months with no response and they said 'due to covid they don't have the materials to fix my wetsuit right now' so they 'put me under warranty' and gave me a the amount of store credit to buy another ebomb. So stoked, was not expecting this to happen at all. I have read some negative stuff online about ripcurl's suits but I have always liked mine and now I feel like imma buy them for life

mj23

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Re: Surfing
« Reply #389 on: March 30, 2022, 11:15:58 AM »
had a cool thing happen - I bought a 3/2 ripcurl ebomb wetsuit in 2019 sometime and it lasted me about 2 & 1/2 years then finally got a little hole in the leg and thinned out in the crotch. I sent it to ripcurl to get it fixed January this year and was told it would be returned in about 4-6 weeks. I finally emailed them after 3 months with no response and they said 'due to covid they don't have the materials to fix my wetsuit right now' so they 'put me under warranty' and gave me a the amount of store credit to buy another ebomb. So stoked, was not expecting this to happen at all. I have read some negative stuff online about ripcurl's suits but I have always liked mine and now I feel like imma buy them for life

that fucking rules. i've had like 3 ripcurl suits and they've all held up for multiple seasons, but i never bothered to try and get them fixed or replaced when they started leaking. i think i still have a leaky 3/2 around somewhere, i may try to send it out and see what happens. did you still have a receipt or any paperwork or anything like that?