@finecojeffe nice to really test the limits of the board, sounds a bit scary but epic usually is. The levels here have been bad for a few weeks, I've driven a couple times to chase waves, but that isn't really my thing, especially with the price of gas. Can't wait for the waves to come back, i feel like the og surfers these days, landsurfing to pass the flat days.
Definitely a little scary. Not scary while paddling, just while sitting and waiting. I'm back on the landsurfing soon too since it's about to be so as flat as can be here in SoFlo until either a hurricane or next fall.
@finecojeffe that sounds like an a perspective changing session, especially almost by your lonesome haha. Luckily during similar sessions, I have at least been out with one friend so we can keep an eye on one another. Even though big and stormy isn't my deal, paddling out and 'survival surfing' during those sessions has definitely made me more calm on regular days when bigger sets roll through. At least ya know not to bring out the twin under those conditions haha
reminds me of this john john florence vid I watched recently where he talks/analyzes getting caught in a rip current and taking a ton of waves on the head:
so freaky. of course that's at pipe and I have never even surfed in Hawaii but rip currents exist everywhere lol
@botefdunn where are you usually surfing at?
The rips here are usually helpful at least to just paddle out, but if you lose a board I imagine it would suck pretty bad. That vid is nerve-racking. I can't imagine being that stuck for that long and nobody even really notices.
The one fairly uncomfortable/scary wipeout i had last saturday was when I couldn't set rail and pitched right where the lip broke sending me straight down. I got to the point my leash was taught, my board was tombstoned, I was stretched out upside-down and I couldn't right my body to swim to the surface. As soon as the wave passed I swam up and took another on the head. Wound up with a little whiplash and a lot of water in my sinus.
River surfing looks fun. I haven't looked in to it much, but do people ride thinker but shorter boards compared to ocean surfing? It would be cool to do a hike-camp-surf trip along a river.