Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 31643 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

lemonchicken91

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1018
  • Rep: 242
Re: Surfing
« Reply #450 on: June 30, 2022, 10:24:18 AM »
Last night I spun bs 270 and went down. This happens lots, but I went down really hard and the side of my head smacked the water so hard I realized this type of impact could potentially knock me out. Came away with just a mild headache, but it's a wake up call.

I fell going really fast on a waist-chest high day last summer and I skipped across the water really weird and I definitely felt that minor concussion dizzy/confused feeling.
I was shocked because I fall worse than that all the time but I just landed weird
surface tension is no joke
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #451 on: June 30, 2022, 01:37:36 PM »
earlier this week after reading @botefdunn ^ smacking his head, i caught my nose on a steeper late drop and did a cartwheel and definitely smacked the side of my face/head pretty hard. was actually a bit shook for a second after hah

botefdunn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3904
  • Rep: 684
Re: Surfing
« Reply #452 on: June 30, 2022, 06:28:28 PM »
earlier this week after reading @botefdunn ^ smacking his head, i caught my nose on a steeper late drop and did a cartwheel and definitely smacked the side of my face/head pretty hard. was actually a bit shook for a second after hah

glad you're alright, yeah i felt a little shook too just thinking what if it had knocked me out...

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #453 on: July 01, 2022, 09:15:20 AM »
I made the mistake of reading this guys account of a few different shark encounters:
https://www.surfersjournal.com/editorial/the-archivist-george-greenoughs-shark-files/

freaky stuff haha

Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #454 on: July 03, 2022, 11:40:36 AM »
The wife scored a free place to stay near Lincoln City but this is pretty significant flat spell for us. Ended up getting a couple of solid skate sessions at the park instead but found some loggable waves on the way home to rinse of the skate sweat. can't complain when you get to grind pool coping and slide a few waves in the same day.

botefdunn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3904
  • Rep: 684
Re: Surfing
« Reply #455 on: July 06, 2022, 08:54:23 AM »
The wife scored a free place to stay near Lincoln City but this is pretty significant flat spell for us. Ended up getting a couple of solid skate sessions at the park instead but found some loggable waves on the way home to rinse of the skate sweat. can't complain when you get to grind pool coping and slide a few waves in the same day.

you're taking about the waves right (i hope)?  ;D
sounds pretty awesome, thanks for the vicarious stoke

Brandon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1941
  • Rep: 291
  • SLAP OG SLAP OG : Been around since SLAP was a mag.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #456 on: July 06, 2022, 06:21:26 PM »
anybody around the central coast of california (morro bay, cayucos, cambria) have tips for beginner-friendly spots? have been heavily obsessing over surfing for the past few months and just picked up my first board from wavelengths in morro bay. eyeing moonstone beach as my local wave since it's ~20 mins from me, but open to any other suggestions!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvpMIUscMMc
(not gonna be out when it's this big...yet)

Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #457 on: July 06, 2022, 09:27:04 PM »
Expand Quote
The wife scored a free place to stay near Lincoln City but this is pretty significant flat spell for us. Ended up getting a couple of solid skate sessions at the park instead but found some loggable waves on the way home to rinse of the skate sweat. can't complain when you get to grind pool coping and slide a few waves in the same day.
[close]

you're taking about the waves right (i hope)?  ;D
sounds pretty awesome, thanks for the vicarious stoke

Haha. Mostly... although... at my age...  :-X

Coastal Fever

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3503
  • Rep: 495
Re: Surfing
« Reply #458 on: July 16, 2022, 11:00:15 AM »
Been flat and super windy here forever, this is the second weekend I drive around an hour, willing to go in for next to nothing and not even finding that.  I’m dyin.

botefdunn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3904
  • Rep: 684
Re: Surfing
« Reply #459 on: July 16, 2022, 07:43:30 PM »
Been flat and super windy here forever, this is the second weekend I drive around an hour, willing to go in for next to nothing and not even finding that.  I’m dyin.

Hang in there!

mj23

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1346
  • Rep: 221
  • SLAP OG SLAP OG : Been around since SLAP was a mag.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #460 on: July 16, 2022, 08:36:24 PM »
Been flat and super windy here forever, this is the second weekend I drive around an hour, willing to go in for next to nothing and not even finding that.  I’m dyin.
Do you keep any alternative water gear in the car for occasions like this? I used to bring a shitty skimboard out when I wanted to get wet but the waves were total shit. I wanna get some flippers soon, that’s another way to scratch the itch. Some people like fishing?

Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #461 on: July 17, 2022, 09:54:24 AM »
Expand Quote
Been flat and super windy here forever, this is the second weekend I drive around an hour, willing to go in for next to nothing and not even finding that.  I’m dyin.
[close]
Do you keep any alternative water gear in the car for occasions like this? I used to bring a shitty skimboard out when I wanted to get wet but the waves were total shit. I wanna get some flippers soon, that’s another way to scratch the itch. Some people like fishing?

Swim Fins are a good call but hard to get motivated when the water is under 60F. I usually pack some hiking boots, a camera and do a little exploration. Fishing sounds rad though.

shpongle

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 426
  • Rep: 200
  • love everyOne and tell the truth
Re: Surfing
« Reply #462 on: July 18, 2022, 07:45:19 AM »
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb4Nm5ivGk8/

Got a little clip of me surfing on a Channel islands 5’3 fishbeard

https://www.instagram.com/p/CfrnZjUuCM2/
And a lil off the top

Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #463 on: July 18, 2022, 08:23:03 AM »
Stylin @shpongle !

Looking like Craig Ando out there.

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #464 on: July 19, 2022, 11:38:28 AM »
damn @shpongle lookin good out there! That fish beard looks fun.

I am currently trying to sell off a korg synth to get a used hypto krypto. trying not to feel guilty about spending money.... haha

Coastal Fever

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3503
  • Rep: 495
Re: Surfing
« Reply #465 on: July 26, 2022, 04:59:27 PM »
I know it’s a shitty pic, and I’m not the guy in it.. but after 4 years of surfing, I finally got to surf in my hometown for the first time.  Beautiful beach in a small fishing town that doesn’t often get good waves, but I was passing through on a work trip, brought my board and got lucky today.  This was the juice I needed after several underwhelming sessions at my local.


Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #466 on: July 26, 2022, 06:19:25 PM »
Where's your home town @Coastal Fever ?

Another mediocre 'session' today that makes me question why I bother. I suppose its all training for when the waves get good and its good to keep up the paddling muscles but seriously I probably had two passable waves today...

oh how much more I could achieve on my skateboard in 2.5 hours... and stupidly I didn't pack my skateboard today so no post-surf grinds...
on the plus side, the turns I did manage felt really good on the twin-fin and lots of pelicans flying overhead... favorite bird for sure.

Anyway, I reckon about one more month before we start seeing some better conditions up here in the PNW.

Coastal Fever

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3503
  • Rep: 495
Re: Surfing
« Reply #467 on: July 26, 2022, 06:28:05 PM »
That’s in Mavillette, Nova Scotia.  Definitely not to be confused with the other Mavs haha.  Water was around 17c, which was warm enough to finally ditch the gloves and boots.  Just wearing a 4/3 is about as good as it gets.

finecojeffe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 694
  • Rep: 126
    • Fine-Co avatar image
Re: Surfing
« Reply #468 on: July 27, 2022, 05:40:11 AM »
Where's your home town @Coastal Fever ?

Another mediocre 'session' today that makes me question why I bother. I suppose its all training for when the waves get good and its good to keep up the paddling muscles but seriously I probably had two passable waves today...

oh how much more I could achieve on my skateboard in 2.5 hours... and stupidly I didn't pack my skateboard today so no post-surf grinds...
on the plus side, the turns I did manage felt really good on the twin-fin and lots of pelicans flying overhead... favorite bird for sure.

Anyway, I reckon about one more month before we start seeing some better conditions up here in the PNW.

I feel the same. We have near zero for waves here in Miami for the summer months. I actually went out this morning before work for 45 minutes and had maybe 1 wave that I could stretch a turn out on, and everything else was a sub 1' closeout. I view these days as workouts though too...so not all is lost and I don't get too down on it. It was crowded too which always sucks, but I and all the other surfers here have barely more than 1 break.

Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #469 on: July 27, 2022, 08:03:49 AM »
I try not to have a sour attitude but skateboarding is such an accessible positive thing and a good time 99% of the time, I wonder why I continue to torture myself with surfing. Then I score the odd head high glassy and sunny day with just a few friends, when my board and mind are working well together and I get to link some turns, crank though some sections and it all makes sense... Those days have been very infrequent in 2022 though... I keep blaming La Nina.

not to mention how grumpy everyone can be in the water... show up at the curb spot and everyone greets you like an old friend...

Anyway.... onward we go...

lemonchicken91

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1018
  • Rep: 242
Re: Surfing
« Reply #470 on: July 28, 2022, 06:23:31 AM »
Been feeling the same way. I love surfing more than skating when the stars align but it is so much frustration between tose moments.

Skating I can just pick up and go for 5 minutes if I please

Problem is I get hurt more skating
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

mj23

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1346
  • Rep: 221
  • SLAP OG SLAP OG : Been around since SLAP was a mag.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #471 on: August 01, 2022, 11:53:08 AM »
yeah summers are tough, but even going for a swim on a warm day is always worth it imo

im still having fun on the mini simmons even when waves are trash

its such a funny little burst of speed you can get from even the shittiest little ripple

honestly i almost prefer it because if i go catch some summertime 1 footers there's basically nobody out, and those who do go thru the motions are not usually acting aggro at all. similar to skating a curb in a lot of ways, tbh

Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #472 on: August 03, 2022, 08:42:28 AM »
Finally had a couple of passable sessions with a swift sundowner/campout/ dawn  patrol. Some NW wind swell actually cleaned up and wrapped into a couple of coves to produce some small but serviceable waves. Nearly took the bashed up old Longboard but glad I took the orange groveler I posted above. It turns weak 2' waves into a fun time.

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #473 on: August 03, 2022, 10:18:30 AM »
@Frank and Fred nice, glad to hear you got some waves. that groveler seems like a great board to mess around on in some sloppy waves

I tore my meniscus around a year ago and its unfortunately bothering me again. taking a few weeks off surfing/skating and just riding my bike to fill that void.

was on the hunt for a hypto krypto and ending up finding a super clean used one for cheap so I picked it up...
5'10 x 20 1/4 x 2 5/8 at 33.79L - smallest board I have owned so I will need to get used to the paddle but these things are known for having a lot of foam up front



can't wait to take it out. doing daily strengthing exercises in hopes of getting out there faster haha


Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #474 on: August 04, 2022, 08:15:21 AM »
Those HKs look like quiver killers. Heal up soon. @Huell Howser

botefdunn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3904
  • Rep: 684
Re: Surfing
« Reply #475 on: August 04, 2022, 10:36:29 AM »
@Frank and Fred n

I tore my meniscus around a year ago and its unfortunately bothering me again. taking a few weeks off surfing/skating and just riding my bike to fill that void.


bummer. i tore mine a couple years ago, had surgery, and it started acting up again a few weeks ago just from overuse i think. It felt weird and swollen but painless, and a friend suggested it was liquid built up in the joint, and to try deep massage. I've gone at it a few times with foam roller, rolling pin, and digging a wooden spoon into the ligaments at the back of the knee and it is startin to feel a whole lot better. Don't know if this will work for you but might be worth a shot.
Sorry, I'm blah blahing. Your new board looks nice, good all around. I have a similar one, 5'9 santa cruz with a "chest bump" for extra volume up front.

botefdunn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3904
  • Rep: 684
Re: Surfing
« Reply #476 on: August 06, 2022, 01:31:30 PM »
Somebody died yesterday at my local. I guess this is more or less common in the ocean, but it's the first fatality I've heard of at my river spot. I've had some scary experiences and knew it could happen, but it's still a wake up call.Be safe out there.

Coastal Fever

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3503
  • Rep: 495
Re: Surfing
« Reply #477 on: August 06, 2022, 03:45:30 PM »
Jesus, so sorry to hear that man.  I don’t get river surfing at all.  Watched some clips of people doing it on the St Lawrence and I don’t get how you get in/out safely without being swept kms away??  They always leave that footage out for some reason.  All I saw was dudes shredding then wiping out and disappearing.

botefdunn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3904
  • Rep: 684
Re: Surfing
« Reply #478 on: August 07, 2022, 08:43:15 AM »
@Coastal Fever I'm on the st lawrence (habitat) , and getting out after the waves is a very rough swim like you said. Once you get used to the spot though, you know what to expect, where the whirlpools are gonna be, currents etc. and you ride it out without popping your adrenaline/panicking.

Frank and Fred

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #479 on: August 07, 2022, 12:19:31 PM »
A teenager died getting caught in an underwater grate at the standing wave in Bend Or.

https://www.opb.org/article/2022/06/08/bend-makes-changes-to-surf-wave-after-teens-death/

In brighter news, looks like pretty decent conditions early this week for northern Oregon, which also coincides with me being able to get loose from work.