Author Topic: Surfing  (Read 31640 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

botefdunn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3904
  • Rep: 684
Re: Surfing
« Reply #510 on: September 19, 2022, 07:46:03 AM »
Drove 2,400 miles from Portland to Baja and back chasing south swells and hurricane Kay. major score. Probably a bit too much driving for 10 days though...

epic!

homicidalpsychojunglecat

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 63
  • Rep: 15
Re: Surfing
« Reply #511 on: September 19, 2022, 01:40:23 PM »
Finished up a 5'6" EPS/Epoxy round tail twin plus trailer. Final sanding was yesterday morning. It's 5'6" x 19 3/4" x 2 5/16". Nose rocker is somewhat low at only 4" but the tail rocker is somewhat high at 2 3/4". Fin spread for a twin is a little big, and sort of close to a thruster. I did thins because I've been having fun riding thrusters as twin + trailer setups and I thought that with this spread and the rocker it would broaden the boards range. It's not a groveler at all despite the fuller outline. The bottom contours are real subtle with a rolled nose into a real shallow concave from the front foot until the small double concave begins just in front of the fins and ends in a spiral vee out the tail. The contours could be considered almost flat, and this is for the purpose of riding faster waves, and potentially hollow ones is why I made the tail rocker high. Rocker is loosely based on what Stretch has to say about rocker.







Damn that sounds and looks great. Big fan of a bit of a flick of rocker out the tail, I have a theory that might make my twin a better ride if it had some. Looking forward to hearing how it goes...

finecojeffe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 694
  • Rep: 126
    • Fine-Co avatar image
Re: Surfing
« Reply #512 on: September 20, 2022, 12:08:28 PM »
Thanks @homicidalpsychojunglecat ...hopefully this weekend will be a good time to get it in the water. There's a hurricane swell on its way here, should max on Friday, but remains at least on Saturday. Next week might be some wind chop too, so it would be extra nice to see it in a range of conditions. Will post once I get some one it.

finecojeffe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 694
  • Rep: 126
    • Fine-Co avatar image
Re: Surfing
« Reply #513 on: September 30, 2022, 01:03:57 PM »
got a few sessions on the new board and have some initial thoughts. The rocker is a little high so when the waves go to mush I can feel it pushing water. But having a little single concave I can move my back foot up and surf with a narrow stance so it will do ok in mush. Paddling suffers there. But when the waves are actually pushing or very steep it goes really well and the rails feel absolutely perfect. The board ducks easily, which is great considering the wind chop we usually get. Hopefully I can get some more waves today. South Beach is absolutely massive today. Heres a screenshot from earlier:



Edit: by the time I got to south beach is was unruly and oversized. I paddled out but didn’t get anything worthwhile. Lots of closeouts. It was the biggest I’ve seen it for as long as I can remember. And as of this morning it’s completely flat.
« Last Edit: October 01, 2022, 05:03:13 AM by finecojeffe »

Mark Renton

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1547
  • Rep: 288
  • Choose life.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #514 on: October 04, 2022, 11:25:34 PM »
Sorry everyone if it’s already been asked.

Does anyone have links to videos where people both surf and skate? Better if both on the same day.

Nothing specific, it could be a day-in-the-life or a company video.
I think I’m about that life.

So far I only know Chico Brenes videos and CallMe917 video.
Also What Youth youtube channel.

The older the better.

Cheers :)
video tape yourself saving monks. dont just do it. make sure its caught on film.

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #515 on: October 05, 2022, 09:02:40 AM »
@finecojeffe missed this but holy hell those are some thick azzzz slabs. getting caught on the inside when sets are rollin thru looks like it'd be terrible haha


Sorry everyone if it’s already been asked.

Does anyone have links to videos where people both surf and skate? Better if both on the same day.

Nothing specific, it could be a day-in-the-life or a company video.
I think I’m about that life.

So far I only know Chico Brenes videos and CallMe917 video.
Also What Youth youtube channel.

The older the better.

Cheers :)

needs to be same day? you got a fetish for this or something? lmao

I would browse thru this thread. I am sure there is some stuff that's been posted. I posted thomas cambell's 'sprout' a few pages back which I think has some skating in it but I forget

first thing that comes to mind that's more of a 'day in the life' is that out there with Austin Kanfoush:
https://youtu.be/opBPc2ea9rs

here's some classic clips of buttons skating some banks in hawaii in the 70s
https://youtu.be/F06FlVg6vtI


Blue Fescue

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3458
  • Rep: 303
  • SLAP OG SLAP OG : Been around since SLAP was a mag.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #516 on: October 05, 2022, 09:26:42 AM »
Surfing and skating this Greyson Fletcher day in the life, not much surfing though

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdsZTg4msHI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIPaS0Nr_dc


Curren Caples

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cxB0HsnlsI

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #517 on: October 05, 2022, 10:18:12 AM »
Surfing and skating this Greyson Fletcher day in the life, not much surfing though

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdsZTg4msHI

that first wave/slam right onto the shore at the wedge is so insane lol

Mark Renton

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1547
  • Rep: 288
  • Choose life.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #518 on: October 05, 2022, 11:48:39 AM »

needs to be same day? you got a fetish for this or something? lmao


I just wanted to get inspired by that morning surf afternoon skate routine. Maybe replicate that you know.

Fetishize deez nuts.
video tape yourself saving monks. dont just do it. make sure its caught on film.

finecojeffe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 694
  • Rep: 126
    • Fine-Co avatar image
Re: Surfing
« Reply #519 on: October 05, 2022, 12:05:57 PM »
@finecojeffe missed this but holy hell those are some thick azzzz slabs. getting caught on the inside when sets are rollin thru looks like it'd be terrible haha

Some of the photos people got from this day look unreal. Surflie had it as 6-8...from whatever buoy they use but by the time some of the waves got to the beach some were double over and just as fat as they come. Getting caught inside was not fun at all.

King tide was in play too, so some people who weren't on the beach got hit by some waves at high tide and knocked off the walkway to the pier and into Government Cut where the cruise ships pass.

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #520 on: October 05, 2022, 01:09:03 PM »
Expand Quote

needs to be same day? you got a fetish for this or something? lmao

[close]

I just wanted to get inspired by that morning surf afternoon skate routine. Maybe replicate that you know.

Fetishize deez nuts.

no need to fantasize just actualize it mane

Skibb

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 414
  • Rep: 68
  • Bronze Topic Start Bronze Topic Start : Start a topic with over 1,000 replies.
    Silver Topic Start Silver Topic Start : Start a topic with over 5,000 replies.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #521 on: October 20, 2022, 01:21:31 AM »
Got some waves last weekend, even got some pictures:







This is south-western Sweden, around 5°C air temp, so it's full frog-man mode for everyone in the water.

Bror

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 70
  • Rep: 23
Re: Surfing
« Reply #522 on: October 20, 2022, 01:50:16 AM »
Got some waves last weekend, even got some pictures:







This is south-western Sweden, around 5°C air temp, so it's full frog-man mode for everyone in the water.

Yoo, im on the westcoast. Where are you guys surfing?

I wanna start surfing but I'm not sure what type of board I want. A guy in town is selling a 6" board at 50L really cheap but I'm 2 meters/ 6'5 and I'm afraid it will be too short.

You guys got any tips?
Also which EU/Swedish sites do I go for swimsuits?

finecojeffe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 694
  • Rep: 126
    • Fine-Co avatar image
Re: Surfing
« Reply #523 on: October 20, 2022, 05:21:34 AM »
even though it looks cold, it still looks like some fun waves Skibb! It's been flat again here and I haven't been able to surf since Sep 30. This might be the first October in a very long time that i haven't had a single session. I need to move...when I retire.

mj23

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1346
  • Rep: 221
  • SLAP OG SLAP OG : Been around since SLAP was a mag.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #524 on: October 20, 2022, 07:47:34 AM »
went on a road trip through california a few weeks ago, 4 days in the bay area, 3 days aronud santa barbara, and 3 in LA. i definitely underestimated how cold the water would be around SF, i was in a 4/3 with no boots and my feet went numb. ended up buying some boots while i was there; i needed to replace my autumn split toes anyway. also, the spots around there all seem super affected by tides, with pretty notable rips and currents to navigate. my friends said it was because of how deep the SF bay is, so tons of water comes in and out of it with every tide shift. pretty interesting and trippy after a lifetime of surfing mostly east coast beach breaks.

caught the best waves of the trip in LA. those slopey waves are so much easier to surf than the majority of other places i've been, it's no wonder so many people surf down there.

now i'm back home and the northeast US is finally getting waves with relative consistency, i'm hyped and trying to enjoy as much as i can before it gets super cold. still haven't broken out my winter suit, but on days with a strong wind i am definitely shivering a little. but the crowds are basically gone, i love that about this place.

funny, i ran into a few people out there who had funny reactions when i told them where i was from. i guess they were under the impression that the east coast is barely surfable or that we only get shitty little waves or something. truth is despite the feast-or-famine seasonal changes, i think you have way more chances to get barreled in a given season, and way fewer crowds, in NY or NJ than you could ever find in SoCal... but I didn't bother telling them that  :-X

anyway, @Skibb what's it like surfing in sweden? fickle? consistent? crowded? empty?

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #525 on: October 20, 2022, 02:00:09 PM »
Damn, yeah @Skibb that looks awesome. pls elaborate more on surfing in Sweden. Is that spot consistent?

@finecojeffe that's tough. hope something comes through for you soon. I feel like seasons are pushed back later and later every passing year so maybe november will be your october haha

@mj23 that roadtrip sounds awesome. Yeah, SF is notoriously cold. where did you go out in SF and LA? SB is notoriously small wave longboard territory

funny, i ran into a few people out there who had funny reactions when i told them where i was from. i guess they were under the impression that the east coast is barely surfable or that we only get shitty little waves or something. truth is despite the feast-or-famine seasonal changes, i think you have way more chances to get barreled in a given season, and way fewer crowds, in NY or NJ than you could ever find in SoCal... but I didn't bother telling them that  :-X

I will let you keep thinkin' that about socal hahah. I think the main issue is you went surfing in LA, LA is a nightmare of its own, throw surfing on top of it and its a gonna be rough imo. sure there are overly crowded point breaks that have rolly mush but there are tons of uncrowded beach breaks that are steep as hell and given the right conditions can humble even the best surfers

Coastal Fever

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3503
  • Rep: 495
Re: Surfing
« Reply #526 on: October 20, 2022, 03:50:30 PM »
Got off work early and paddled out.  Surf forecast was giving 4 stars, 6ft @ 9s or so.. ended up being choppy and crumbly as all hell.  This year’s been kinda lackluster overall, or maybe I’m just getting a lot pickier than I used to be. 

Just bummed that once the time changes in a couple weeks I’ll only be able to get out on weekends.  Don’t really like surfing alone, so the occasions where the weekend is good, and there’s people out, but not too many, are pretty rare.  Hopefully will manage to score a bit and not lose all my ability over the next 6-7 freezing months.

botefdunn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3904
  • Rep: 684
Re: Surfing
« Reply #527 on: October 20, 2022, 08:13:09 PM »
@Coastal Fever lackluster is a good word for the situation here as well. Because I'm on a river, my waves are at the mercy of upstream dams. The water table is low so they're reducing the flow with no end in sight. A different set of variables, but still just watching and hoping for waves!

mj23

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1346
  • Rep: 221
  • SLAP OG SLAP OG : Been around since SLAP was a mag.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #528 on: October 24, 2022, 07:34:34 AM »
@mj23 that roadtrip sounds awesome. Yeah, SF is notoriously cold. where did you go out in SF and LA? SB is notoriously small wave longboard territory

Expand Quote
funny, i ran into a few people out there who had funny reactions when i told them where i was from. i guess they were under the impression that the east coast is barely surfable or that we only get shitty little waves or something. truth is despite the feast-or-famine seasonal changes, i think you have way more chances to get barreled in a given season, and way fewer crowds, in NY or NJ than you could ever find in SoCal... but I didn't bother telling them that  :-X
[close]

I will let you keep thinkin' that about socal hahah. I think the main issue is you went surfing in LA, LA is a nightmare of its own, throw surfing on top of it and its a gonna be rough imo. sure there are overly crowded point breaks that have rolly mush but there are tons of uncrowded beach breaks that are steep as hell and given the right conditions can humble even the best surfers

i don't doubt it, and i knew it might seem like i was trying to start some kind of pissing match, but i'm really not, i swear.

i just find it funny that in 2022 i still meet people who are surprised to learn that east coast surfing exists or that it ever gets "good." like haven't we all seen video clips of guys getting pitted with snow on the beach every winter?  :-X :-X

i'm not completely crazy though, am i? i've seen tons of surf industry types describe socal surf as 'gutless' over the years. and in my limited experience when the beach breaks around LA have gotten powerful they're still not as barreling as shit out here... but they are definitely thicker and have more juice.

anyway i guess i'm guilty of the same shit from the other side, i surf various LA county spots, see clips from trestles, etc, and i fall into the trap of thinking socal = slopey and rippable, even though i've also seen clips of a solid swell turning various south bay spots that i recognize pretty gnarly and hollow.
« Last Edit: October 24, 2022, 07:49:59 AM by mj23 »

lemonchicken91

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1018
  • Rep: 242
Re: Surfing
« Reply #529 on: October 25, 2022, 09:37:36 AM »
I saw how you said the concave was mostly flat on that twin round tail.

There was a legendary shaper/troll on the Surfer mag forums that just passed away who made some killer boards. He believed in a no concave theory with hard edges on the rails all the way up the nose. Really interesting stuff

RIP Greg Griffin.

no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

lemonchicken91

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1018
  • Rep: 242
Re: Surfing
« Reply #530 on: October 25, 2022, 09:39:43 AM »
Expand Quote
@mj23 that roadtrip sounds awesome. Yeah, SF is notoriously cold. where did you go out in SF and LA? SB is notoriously small wave longboard territory

Expand Quote
funny, i ran into a few people out there who had funny reactions when i told them where i was from. i guess they were under the impression that the east coast is barely surfable or that we only get shitty little waves or something. truth is despite the feast-or-famine seasonal changes, i think you have way more chances to get barreled in a given season, and way fewer crowds, in NY or NJ than you could ever find in SoCal... but I didn't bother telling them that  :-X
[close]

I will let you keep thinkin' that about socal hahah. I think the main issue is you went surfing in LA, LA is a nightmare of its own, throw surfing on top of it and its a gonna be rough imo. sure there are overly crowded point breaks that have rolly mush but there are tons of uncrowded beach breaks that are steep as hell and given the right conditions can humble even the best surfers
[close]

i don't doubt it, and i knew it might seem like i was trying to start some kind of pissing match, but i'm really not, i swear.

i just find it funny that in 2022 i still meet people who are surprised to learn that east coast surfing exists or that it ever gets "good." like haven't we all seen video clips of guys getting pitted with snow on the beach every winter?  :-X :-X

i'm not completely crazy though, am i? i've seen tons of surf industry types describe socal surf as 'gutless' over the years. and in my limited experience when the beach breaks around LA have gotten powerful they're still not as barreling as shit out here... but they are definitely thicker and have more juice.

anyway i guess i'm guilty of the same shit from the other side, i surf various LA county spots, see clips from trestles, etc, and i fall into the trap of thinking socal = slopey and rippable, even though i've also seen clips of a solid swell turning various south bay spots that i recognize pretty gnarly and hollow.

Just for some perspective, grew up surfing Texas. All these guys talk about grovellers for san diego etc.

When I visited every summer I always had plenty of fun on a standard shortboard at san onofre and places like that. Compared to texas those waves have so much more punch, I kinda roll my eyes at guys going for alt shapes sometimes because down here we really need them for short period wind swell.

Also east coast is criminally underrated yall get god surf 2x as much as texas.
no, i live in an efficiency by myself and work in middle management like you, loser

whaaaaat

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 447
  • Rep: 49
Re: Surfing
« Reply #531 on: October 26, 2022, 03:37:19 PM »
Somehow didn't know this thread existed, or I did and I forgot. I live in the PNW and browsing through pages see that I'm not the only one. I'm in Washington so you probably already know my primary surf spot. I grew up surfing occasionally because my mom was from SoCal and we'd surf down there on occassion but I really picked it up more seriously the past 4 years or so (I'm 36). I think there was a vid where Max Schaff was talking about learning to surf in mid-life and how it's sick because you can get that same excitement you had when you first started skating - where you're learning new shit every time you do it and are just staying stoked between sessions. It's been really fun to get into.

Buuuut totally have to agree with the common sentiment that surfers are the absolute worst. I hear the common excuse for localism in surfing as waves being a finite resource - but I'm a serious snowboarder too and have been all my life and powder is way fucking more scarce than waves (that come in sets!) and you don't get that localism shit in snowboarding. It really bugged me when I started and ruined sessions for me, but I've gotten over it now and if anything it just makes me that much more stoked that I'm a skateboarder.

whaaaaat

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 447
  • Rep: 49
Re: Surfing
« Reply #532 on: October 26, 2022, 03:43:57 PM »
Whoa, double post - sorry.

But could someone explain to me the hate on mid-lengths? I see it all over and it makes me self-conscious riding my 7'4". As a skater I'm anxious to ride a shorter board so I can surf more the way I skate but I just haven't had the time (and the waves here don't have the consistency) yet to get to that point. But I don't know where the hate originated or exactly why? I don't care when someone at the skatepark is riding a shaped board, but I gather that's not an apt comparison, wondering if someone more legit than me can tell me why I'm a kook...?

Huell Howser

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1309
  • Rep: 248
Re: Surfing
« Reply #533 on: October 26, 2022, 04:10:43 PM »
Expand Quote
@mj23 that roadtrip sounds awesome. Yeah, SF is notoriously cold. where did you go out in SF and LA? SB is notoriously small wave longboard territory

Expand Quote
funny, i ran into a few people out there who had funny reactions when i told them where i was from. i guess they were under the impression that the east coast is barely surfable or that we only get shitty little waves or something. truth is despite the feast-or-famine seasonal changes, i think you have way more chances to get barreled in a given season, and way fewer crowds, in NY or NJ than you could ever find in SoCal... but I didn't bother telling them that  :-X
[close]

I will let you keep thinkin' that about socal hahah. I think the main issue is you went surfing in LA, LA is a nightmare of its own, throw surfing on top of it and its a gonna be rough imo. sure there are overly crowded point breaks that have rolly mush but there are tons of uncrowded beach breaks that are steep as hell and given the right conditions can humble even the best surfers
[close]

i don't doubt it, and i knew it might seem like i was trying to start some kind of pissing match, but i'm really not, i swear.

i just find it funny that in 2022 i still meet people who are surprised to learn that east coast surfing exists or that it ever gets "good." like haven't we all seen video clips of guys getting pitted with snow on the beach every winter?  :-X :-X

i'm not completely crazy though, am i? i've seen tons of surf industry types describe socal surf as 'gutless' over the years. and in my limited experience when the beach breaks around LA have gotten powerful they're still not as barreling as shit out here... but they are definitely thicker and have more juice.

anyway i guess i'm guilty of the same shit from the other side, i surf various LA county spots, see clips from trestles, etc, and i fall into the trap of thinking socal = slopey and rippable, even though i've also seen clips of a solid swell turning various south bay spots that i recognize pretty gnarly and hollow.

https://youtu.be/96IhRXqiRcM

*please ignore soul-sucking stock YouTube backtrack*

finecojeffe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 694
  • Rep: 126
    • Fine-Co avatar image
Re: Surfing
« Reply #534 on: October 27, 2022, 09:20:33 AM »
But could someone explain to me the hate on mid-lengths?

I don't see hate very much in person. It likely stems from the surge in popularity of boards of specific length being called "mid-length" after many years of that not being a thing. Marketing caused that I think. Also coinciding with the surge of new surfers during the free time that the pandemic brought them. This brought a lot of crowds to the lineup, now riding boards that are easy to paddle into everything and leaving the newer surfers on them a newfound inability to look either left or right before taking off, only to find they weren't the first one on the wave which causes them to yell "party wave" thinking thats the proper bandaid for dropping in on someone. There's a chance some "mid-length" people are modernized incarnations of hipsters too.

Don't let it deter you at all though. Boards of the mid-length size can be super fun in all sorts of surf. I ride a 7'5" and a 8'3" whenever the waves are small and always have a good time on them. I always mean to bring them when the waves are good, but since waves being good is rare I tend to choose the smallest board I can for the day.

Lee Ralphs Dear Old Mum

  • Guest
Re: Surfing
« Reply #535 on: October 27, 2022, 09:51:45 AM »
Whoa, double post - sorry.

But could someone explain to me the hate on mid-lengths? I see it all over and it makes me self-conscious riding my 7'4". As a skater I'm anxious to ride a shorter board so I can surf more the way I skate but I just haven't had the time (and the waves here don't have the consistency) yet to get to that point. But I don't know where the hate originated or exactly why? I don't care when someone at the skatepark is riding a shaped board, but I gather that's not an apt comparison, wondering if someone more legit than me can tell me why I'm a kook...?

Midlengths used to be a 'kooky' no mans land between longboards and shortboards, generally associated with adult beginners. But let's be clear in the lates 60s and 70s, the transition era into modern surfing, most progressive surfers were using them.

I learned on shortboards and have a love/ hate relationship with long boarding. when I started you either rode a longbaord or a highly rockered out, skinny shortboard (ala Kelly Slaters 'glass slipper). With the advent of the Litmus and Thomas Campbell movies in the early 2000s, surfers gradually started to open up to 'alternative' surfboards again. People began riding Fish, quads, bonzers, eggs etc... usually with a lot more volume than contemporary shortboards. A lot of people realized 'foam is typically your friend.' And for most of us most of the time volume only helped.

Anyway, it was inevitable that shapers and surfers began to explore 'mid lengths' in this anything goes era. Also, there are a shit load more 'adult learners than there used to be and they make a lot of sense for that crowd. There are also a lot of fancy 'designer' surf labels that look appealing to adult learners with expendable income making middies. So, there are a lot of kooks on middies, for sure.

Personally, I caved. out of my seven surfboards, two are middies. They've helped my up wave count a lot in winter when I'm wearing a lot of neoprene, surfing bigger waves and not as surf fit. In saying that, I only like them in bigger opened faced waves (not necessarily hollow critical waves). I really don't like them in anything under shoulder high. To make the most of a middie you really want some room to move them around and hack some turns... otherwise I find them pretty boring and lackluster.

There are so many ways to pack volume into a surfboard, the mid length is just one. The closest I have come to skateboard feeling is on small sub 6' wide tailed quads. If you are surfing smaller waves, you're pretty fit and want to get a skateboard sensation consider a quad fish or stubby shortboard. Catching waves and the take off will be harder than on your 7'4" but once you up and running you'll have a very different surf experience. Keep the middie for should high plus and long open walls.

mj23

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 1346
  • Rep: 221
  • SLAP OG SLAP OG : Been around since SLAP was a mag.
Re: Surfing
« Reply #536 on: October 28, 2022, 07:25:32 AM »
On the topic of mid lengths, when I was a kid in NJ most stuff we saw in the 7 foot range would be called a “fun board” or a “mini malibu” and was seen as being for beginners. Or, to be honest, “for girls.” That was stupid tho and I learned to surf on a dumb ass 6’2” high performance short board that held me back for years because I could barely ride it.

When I started surfing the rockaways in NYC more as an adult there was a big hipster “alternative shape” scene as well as a lot of adult beginners, so I got some bigger boards and instantly started having more fun. I guess Im an adult beginner alt shape hipster myself in a sense.

When I go back to my old home breaks in NJ or more “core” spots in Long Island I can see a real difference in what people ride, how skilled they are, and how they size me up in the lineup.

 There’s still a perception that big boards are for people who can’t surf, and honestly there’s some truth to it. Certainly a beginner who ditches their mini log constantly is a menace and a danger to be around.

But it’s not about to stop me. I get more waves and surf better now than I ever did on a shortboard. Crucially I also grew up in a place where bad etiquette could get you smacked around, so I like to think I avoid being one of the worst offenders in the current post Covid big big board surf boom.

finecojeffe

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 694
  • Rep: 126
    • Fine-Co avatar image
Re: Surfing
« Reply #537 on: October 31, 2022, 07:14:10 AM »
Flew north to visit my parents over the weekend and got a few waves. Cold air, but the water was 63º, so a 3/2 with some booties was perfect. Water was warmer than it was for a small window back in August when I visited, there was some upwelling then that dropped the water to 52º.

Anyway, got to surf a roundtail twin I posted here at some point last spring, and it went real well with the twin plus trailer setup. It's possible the front fins are actually the Stu Kenson twins though since I bought them off ebay from naked viking about 2 years back or more and they were unbranded and not marked with any template info, and got them for real cheap so I guess they might have been some early protos.



edit to add a pic of the board with the fins:



« Last Edit: November 01, 2022, 04:58:34 AM by finecojeffe »

shpongle

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 426
  • Rep: 200
  • love everyOne and tell the truth
Re: Surfing
« Reply #538 on: October 31, 2022, 07:36:49 PM »
Ever since moving to new york this summer i only get to surf 1-3x a month. Heres clips from yesterday

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkZjxxlD7kD/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

PatrickSkateman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • SLAP Pal
  • ******
  • Posts: 3997
  • Rep: -200
  • SLAP OG SLAP OG : Been around since SLAP was a mag.
  • User is on moderator watch listWatched
Re: Surfing
« Reply #539 on: October 31, 2022, 08:53:08 PM »
Anyone try the RVCA wetsuits yet?
2022 Slap Fantasy Football Champion