Surfing

[finecojeffe]

Ever since moving to new york this summer i only get to surf 1-3x a month. Heres clips from yesterday

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkZjxxlD7kD/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

good stuff. Is the 1-3x a month a wave quality issue or a commuting issue...or both? Aside from winter NY surf reminds me of miami...few breaks with large crowds and too much traffic.

[shpongle]

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Ever since moving to new york this summer i only get to surf 1-3x a month. Heres clips from yesterday

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkZjxxlD7kD/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

[close]

good stuff. Is the 1-3x a month a wave quality issue or a commuting issue...or both? Aside from winter NY surf reminds me of miami...few breaks with large crowds and too much traffic.

Haha it is both. For sure. I am full time in acupuncture / chinese medicine school right now. And it is sort of a bitch to get to the beach from where i am living. And yeah wave quality in NY is lackluster. But sheesh when the stars align and i am able to surf fun waves i am the happiest man on earth

[PatrickSkateman]

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Ever since moving to new york this summer i only get to surf 1-3x a month. Heres clips from yesterday

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkZjxxlD7kD/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

[close]

good stuff. Is the 1-3x a month a wave quality issue or a commuting issue...or both? Aside from winter NY surf reminds me of miami...few breaks with large crowds and too much traffic.

Haha it is both. For sure. I am full time in acupuncture / chinese medicine school right now. And it is sort of a bitch to get to the beach from where i am living. And yeah wave quality in NY is lackluster. But sheesh when the stars align and i am able to surf fun waves i am the happiest man on earth

[close]

Station RBNY posts daily wave reports.

[Skibb]

anyway, @Skibb what's it like surfing in sweden? fickle? consistent? crowded? empty?

We only really get windswells, being covered from the Atlantic by Denmark and Norway. But it's not too rare to get the required winds, so you could be catching waves a couple of times a month.

Kite and windsurfing is a bigger thing here, since the conditions are much more suitable for those, so there are some spots that are pretty crowded by those guys. But again: nothing insane. And the surfers here are pretty chill... It's easy to strike up a conversation and I couldn't ever imagine getting your ass whooped for showing up at someones local.

Definately a humbling experience to be standing in a snowy parking lot, with gale and sleet, trying to wrangle out of your 6/5/4 wetsuit. Damn does that termos with hot coco taste good afterwards.

[This Charming Bat]

Any WI/Great Lakes surfers here? Any tips for getting out there this winter?

[PatrickSkateman]

Any WI/Great Lakes surfers here? Any tips for getting out there this winter?

I’ve always been intrigued by the concept of surfing Lake Erie.

[tkp]

Stumbled across this last evening which was a treat, as I've always wanted to see an underwater montage. Usually these types of shots are just sprinkled sparingly in someone's part.

[Lee Ralphs Dear Old Mum]

Got some new BMT Futures Twin Fins on Black Friday and have had a blast the last couple of sessions dialing them in on my 7'6 mid twin and 5'10" groveler. Scored a spooky Oregon beach break to myself this morning. Chest high glassy runners. Just me and few aggro seals. Fell apart as the tide dropped but scored a handful of long workable waves that will get me through the next storm cycle.

[finecojeffe]

painted a 5'7" thruster recently, an ode to a Chris Pastras Stereo board for the bottom. It hasn't been glassed yet though.

[PatrickSkateman]

painted a 5'7" thruster recently, an ode to a Chris Pastras Stereo board for the bottom. It hasn't been glassed yet though.

So dope.

I remember that board.

I was planning to draw a peacock feather a La Rasa Libre on my 7’.

[Lee Ralphs Dear Old Mum]

Amazing. Reminds me of Larry Bertleman's Pepsi boards.

[finecojeffe]

Amazing. Reminds me of Larry Bertleman's Pepsi boards.

most definitely. I'm sure those boards subconsciously informed my decision to go with this graphic.

[Lee Ralphs Dear Old Mum]

How'd you Californians do in that giant swell?

Oregon has been out of hand. Some windows with epic waves, I've been hearing about but nothing that's lined up with my schedule...

[Enrico Pallazzo]

How'd you Californians do in that giant swell?

Oregon has been out of hand. Some windows with epic waves, I've been hearing about but nothing that's lined up with my schedule...

Me paddling out would be the equivalent of dropping in switch to the mega ramp, but it was sick to see pretty much the entire state pumping. Had a few friends who went out in North County SD and got some good clips and photos.

All of Santa Cruz just got smashed though, too gnarly up there.

[Lee Ralphs Dear Old Mum]

Saw Slater was at Seal Beach.

I bet Sandspit in Santa Barbara was cranking...

I haven't surfed in weeks.... hard to motivate a big swell paddle out without being on my game...

[tkp]

How'd you Californians do in that giant swell?

Oregon has been out of hand. Some windows with epic waves, I've been hearing about but nothing that's lined up with my schedule...

Fort Point in San Francisco was going off a couple days ago. Went and watched people charge that.

[PatrickSkateman]

https://www.si.com/.amp/more-sports/2023/01/07/surfing-legend-dies-while-practicing-nazare-massive-waves

RIP

[modern life is war]

Saw Slater was at Seal Beach.

I bet Sandspit in Santa Barbara was cranking...

I haven't surfed in weeks.... hard to motivate a big swell paddle out without being on my game...

I was at Sandspit on both Thursday and Friday. Thursday was pretty much too big for the wave and just rolling through like one big shoulder. Friday was better but by the time the tide was low enough most of the swell had dropped off and it was only about head high. I think the swell didn't have enough south in it for it to work well.

Both days were pretty much impossible to get a wave due to every notable surfer in the area being at the spot and taking whatever wave they wanted, regardless of who was already riding it. Made me remember why I stopped prioritizing surf on a weekend morning and just started going to the skatepark instead.

[Lee Ralphs Dear Old Mum]

Damn. How were the other points in the SB zone? Rincon? El Cap?

[modern life is war]

Damn. How were the other points in the SB zone? Rincon? El Cap?

Rincon was too big and washing through on thursday but super good on friday afternoon. I didn't surf it though, just watched for a little while on my way back from SB. All the point breaks around here are such shit shows and also i'm a bodyboarder so californian surfers will see me riding a wave and consider the wave empty. Sorry if i sound bitter but i've pretty much reached my wit's end with surfing in california, i'm over it

[Lee Ralphs Dear Old Mum]

Totally understand. While Oregon is way less crowded than CA the few good spots are wedged with all manner of person I really don't want to be around...

I have fantasies of moving somewhere warm and body surfing only.

[modern life is war]

Totally understand. While Oregon is way less crowded than CA the few good spots are wedged with all manner of person I really don't want to be around...

I have fantasies of moving somewhere warm and body surfing only.

I know how you feel. The best thing about bodysurfing is how little it demands of you.

[finecojeffe]

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Totally understand. While Oregon is way less crowded than CA the few good spots are wedged with all manner of person I really don't want to be around...

I have fantasies of moving somewhere warm and body surfing only.

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I know how you feel. The best thing about bodysurfing is how little it demands of you.

I used to bodysurf the beach break at Point Dume...with all the rocks it could be pretty demanding on the body, but was worth it for me anyway.

[Huell Howser]

Friday 1/6 seemed to be the peak. In my area south side seal beach was just about the only spot. I watched for a bit, super entertaining. comparable to the wedge with huge slabs breaking onto about 2ft of water. The swell direction/power revealed some rare peaks way outside and there were a few folks sitting about 300 yards out catching these fat mushy rollers that hug the south jetty and getting towed back out on jet skis. Cool to see

I went out Saturday and while there was still some sizeable sets rolling through the swell energy had dropped by a lot. Had a great time on my 7’2 egg, a session that really reminded myself why I got that board.  When the tide started to drop it felt like it was walling up a bit and that sweet spot where my board really thrived started to fade. Water is dirty as hell from rain and storms, was almost completely brown haha

Cool vids I’ve seen from the swell:

blacks in SD. The canyon sets seem earth shattering, seen crazy pov vids of long hold downs


Sand pits in SB


@modern life is war maybe you’re a bit more familiar with this spot^ cuz yr location

[modern life is war]

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Totally understand. While Oregon is way less crowded than CA the few good spots are wedged with all manner of person I really don't want to be around...

I have fantasies of moving somewhere warm and body surfing only.

[close]

I know how you feel. The best thing about bodysurfing is how little it demands of you.

[close]

I used to bodysurf the beach break at Point Dume...with all the rocks it could be pretty demanding on the body, but was worth it for me anyway.

I more meant that you don't need to be super skilled to enjoy it. You can just pull in, see the inside of a barrel and be satisfied

[Lee Ralphs Dear Old Mum]

Where'd Tommy Curren surf during that swell? That's really what I'd like to know.

Seems like Slater surfed with Huell Howser.

[finecojeffe]

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Totally understand. While Oregon is way less crowded than CA the few good spots are wedged with all manner of person I really don't want to be around...

I have fantasies of moving somewhere warm and body surfing only.

[close]

I know how you feel. The best thing about bodysurfing is how little it demands of you.

[close]

I used to bodysurf the beach break at Point Dume...with all the rocks it could be pretty demanding on the body, but was worth it for me anyway.

[close]

I more meant that you don't need to be super skilled to enjoy it. You can just pull in, see the inside of a barrel and be satisfied

my bad, your point definitely makes sense.

[Free Whirl]

Any slap homies down to surf? This past weekend I surfed malibu, topanga and rincon and they were all amazing sessions. I haven't seen rincon turn on like that in a minute

[rawbertson.]

are you guys pretty good swimmers? lol i am pretty bad but i still really want try somehow.
i have heard people hit this place in ontario called Kincardine, the waves are pretty small but i would like to try anything at this point. there is a place it seems like you can rent boards or something.

[modern life is war]

anyone got opinions on wavestorms? getting a good legitimate surfboard is so cost prohibitive and probably the main reason i haven't switched from bodyboarding to real surfing yet.