Surfing

[Huell Howser]

^Sprout or anything Thomas Campbell

Had to take about 2 months off because my elbow randomly started tightening up. This started occurring after being on a 14 day streak back in early January. I tried ignoring and kept surfing but the popping up and paddling just kept aggravating it and making it worse.

I stupidly went on a surf trip with my elbow bothering me up to Santa Cruz and kinda made it worse but it was worth it haha. It was stormy, size able, and crowded/hectic but so fun. Surfed steamer lane, a spot right in front of the boardwalk/roller coaster which I heard doesn’t break often, and sewers.

also went on a trip to Oahu recently and surfed everyday but ended up renting a log because there was close to no swell. First time to Hawaii for me, such a beautiful place. Sea turtles just popping up next to you in the line up is just an amazing thing to see that I am not used to haha. I would move there in an instant…

arm is finally feeling better after taking almost 2 months off. need to listen to my body when it’s telling me to take a break next time! next week gonna get back to a regular schedule of blown out week day afternoon sessions. cannot wait hah

[mj23]

Interesting new marketing approach from 88 brand soft tops: 3 minutes of Jonah Hill not making a single wave

[Huell Howser]

sinister vibe to the edit and set to an OM track 

[SK8houses]

Yesterday I was watching FUEL TV in my bed before sleeping and a surf full-lenght was on and I found it very cool and relatively equal to a skate full lenght... the music, the b-roll, the cheering... basically I was into the whole vibe

That made me come here and ask you guys for the "best" surfing full-lenghts and/or videoparts (if they exist)

I don't surf and never have but I'm always intrigued to try it and maybe this summer I'll finally do it

All of Kai Neville’s videos are dope.
Taylor Steele has made some great ones
Notably ‘Campaign’ is sick or Loose Change. He usually has some random theme with the videos but they are actually kinda sick
September sessions from Jack Johnson is awesome. Lots of 16mm footage.
Vans pentacoastal is kinda like an AWS edit style of surfing. Blue intensity by vans is sick too.
Noa Deane head noise. He skates too
Most Dane Reynolds footage.
Doped Youth, ozzy wright
The old LOST videos are some of my favorites. Those videos are kinda comparable to old baker videos(they drink and surf fucked up and there’s a lot of hijinx).
The former surf videos are really sick too. Dane Reynolds and Craig Anderson are amazing surfers.

[PatrickSkateman]

Lost Across America I and II are the Baker Bootleg and Baker 2G of surfing.

[DiscountCanofTuna]

Interesting new marketing approach from 88 brand soft tops: 3 minutes of Jonah Hill not making a single wave

I feel like he kiiiiiiinda made the wave at like 1.20 - But he dropped in on someone for it lol.

Speaking of soft tops and surf vids - The Drag full length videos rule. They also did a collab with pass~port:

[Frank and Fred]

Missed some classic Welsh surf on a trip back home due to a dumb skate injury. Back in Portland now and picking up my new custom board today so I can look at it unwaxed for god knows how long....

[Frank and Fred]

Got it... I wanted a mid that was more tuned as a semi gun/ winter Oregon paddling board. Pretty stoked with how it turned out and I think it will handle any surf I'm going to attempt. 7'6 x 21" x 3"

[modern life is war]

Drag is sick. Also notable in the skate/drag connection is Tom Robinson who used to be a pro-bodyboarder but now is a pretty notable skate photographer in Australia.

https://www.instagram.com/lobster_cooked/

Here's a photo of me draggin from maybe 5 years ago when I actually used to get out in the water regularly. It's one of the only good surf photos I have of myself.

[Frank and Fred]

Slotted!

I never gave bodyboarding a serious go and envy the ability to get in the tube.

[modern life is war]

Slotted!

I never gave bodyboarding a serious go and envy the ability to get in the tube.

It's fun for slabby waves but anything other than that and you're severely limited by what you can do and how you can stylistically express yourself. There are only like 9 tricks you can do on a bodyboard haha.

[mj23]

The new Chapter 11 edit is pretty dope, some good music, good editing, and footy from the gnarly winter swells in CA this year (including some heinous muddy Doo Doo brown water)

[Huell Howser]

Got it... I wanted a mid that was more tuned as a semi gun/ winter Oregon paddling board. Pretty stoked with how it turned out and I think it will handle any surf I'm going to attempt. 7'6 x 21" x 3"

nice, that thing is rad. Looks like it’s going to cover everything you mentioned. With my single fin mid - as much as I love it, there was a few sessions last winter I took it out in that I had definitely wished i had a different fin setup. Hopefully you get to try it out in the next few months

Drag is sick. Also notable in the skate/drag connection is Tom Robinson who used to be a pro-bodyboarder but now is a pretty notable skate photographer in Australia.

https://www.instagram.com/lobster_cooked/

Here's a photo of me draggin from maybe 5 years ago when I actually used to get out in the water regularly. It's one of the only good surf photos I have of myself.

damn this is a sick shot. Where is this? Pismo beach or Ventura?

[Coastal Fever]

Pretty bummed right now.  I’ve mostly relied on surf-forecast.com as it’s been a little more reliable and detailed than MSW/Surfline.  But still, sometimes it’s way off.  I thought I cracked the code by finding a local buoy tracker that’s just half an hour or so down the coastline.  Anyway, surf-forecast was calling for a decent swell to come in over the past couple days, so I’ve been constantly refreshing the buoy website and it’s been saying 2ft max 1ft avg all week, so I stayed home.  Found out via Instagram that there was indeed a clean head high swell that rolled in yesterday.  No cams where I’m at so it’s super disappointing that there’s literally no reliable resource out there.

[Frank and Fred]

https://www.windfinder.com
https://www.buoyweather.com/#6/44.4/-125/SWELL
https://www.noaa.gov

[mj23]

Pretty bummed right now.  I’ve mostly relied on surf-forecast.com as it’s been a little more reliable and detailed than MSW/Surfline.  But still, sometimes it’s way off.  I thought I cracked the code by finding a local buoy tracker that’s just half an hour or so down the coastline.  Anyway, surf-forecast was calling for a decent swell to come in over the past couple days, so I’ve been constantly refreshing the buoy website and it’s been saying 2ft max 1ft avg all week, so I stayed home.  Found out via Instagram that there was indeed a clean head high swell that rolled in yesterday.  No cams where I’m at so it’s super disappointing that there’s literally no reliable resource out there.

well... now you know! if you don't already, it's worth keeping a log somewhere with info about the buoy readings, the forecast, and what actually happened. then you can kinda triangulate. like for example there are some spots around me where small changes in the swell direction can make a pretty big difference even though it isn't really reflected in the forecasts. i keep a running log in my phone notes app so i can remember which specific spots seem to buck the forecasts in which specific ways

[tom]

I wound up shattering my fibula and tearing ligaments in my ankle shortly after my last post in this thread back in 2014. My time surfing was short lived. Skip ahead to a month and a half ago and I was out in Hawaii on a skate trip with no intention of ever going to the beach. All of my friends there surf though and they got me in the water. It was a pretty sad sight, but I went out a few different times. The last "session" there was a few hours before my flight home and I was juiced enough to decide to get a board and wetsuit when I got home. I felt like an intimidated little kid going into a skate shop for the first time, but the dudes at Val Surf were super cool. I told my buddy who was a surf instructor and water rescue firefighter about everything, and we've been going out 3 times a week for a couple hours at a time. I might not know what the fuck I'm doing yet but its a lot of fun. I'm hoping to graduate off of the foamie within a few months and maybe get a mid length board

[Huell Howser]

I wound up shattering my fibula and tearing ligaments in my ankle shortly after my last post in this thread back in 2014. My time surfing was short lived. Skip ahead to a month and a half ago and I was out in Hawaii on a skate trip with no intention of ever going to the beach. All of my friends there surf though and they got me in the water. It was a pretty sad sight, but I went out a few different times. The last "session" there was a few hours before my flight home and I was juiced enough to decide to get a board and wetsuit when I got home. I felt like an intimidated little kid going into a skate shop for the first time, but the dudes at Val Surf were super cool. I told my buddy who was a surf instructor and water rescue firefighter about everything, and we've been going out 3 times a week for a couple hours at a time. I might not know what the fuck I'm doing yet but its a lot of fun. I'm hoping to graduate off of the foamie within a few months and maybe get a mid length board

glad to hear you’re giving it another shot! Perfect time right before it starts warming up too.

I think you’re in socal right? Feel free to hmu if you wanna head down to the oc area and get a session in

[tom]

@Huell Howser I can see downtown LA from my window. Once I get some more experience and get more comfortable I’ll take you up on that. My ankle injury wasn’t from surfing or anything; not sure if it came across that way

[Frank and Fred]

Just had a three day run after a couple of months off due to injury. Surfed my 7'6" quad as I wanted to catch as many waves as possible. Short period wind swell did surprisingly well and scored a bunch of fun ones. My injured arm aches but in a good way, (I think). Hopefully, back on the shortboards very soon.

[finecojeffe]

Nice, that's definitely a good ache.

On my coast we finally got a little swell last weekend and I surfed my 8'3" twin, and also my 5'5.5" twin+. The 8'3" was perfect since it was high tide most of the time I was out and the waves weren't pitching. Lots of fairly long lefts. It's been almost two months since I've had a day of waves.

My issue in the last three sessions I've had is I wind up with a stinger in my neck. I'm guessing I have a herniated disc in my neck. I can surf fine the whole time, but once I'm done and my back muscles try to settle down, a nerve gets pinched on the right side of my neck. It's possible I don't notice too much since I'm goofy and I'm usually looking for lefts, but it sucks anyway.

[tom]

I was this morning and had one of the most surreal experiences of my life. I saw a fin pop out of the water about 15 feet away from me, then another, and then some more. A dolphin pod swam up into the lineup and there were clusters of them for as far as I could see. Some were just swimming by while others were jumping out of the water. Not many were in the waves, so I stayed out.  Some guy came up to me when I paddled in and showed me a video of myself sitting out in the water while some dolphins played in front of me. The quality got dropped when he sent it from his android to my iPhone, but it's still cool to have

[Frank and Fred]

Nice. Where do you live Tom?

I've surfed pretty close to grey whales before and that was pretty humbling.

Been getting back into it recently Mostly on my 6'2" twin fin. My injured elbow gives me about 2 hours of surfing before it fatigues but its been nice to go as hard as I can for 2 hours. Mostly early mornings or late evenings at the go-to N Oregon spot. The howling north winds and short period wind swell are wrapping into the cove and shaping up into some super fun and shredable lefts.... would love to tap into some rights soon though.


Looking forward to a PNW El Nino this Autumn. Banking some PTO in anticipation.

[tom]

I can't imagine what it's going to be like seeing a whale for the first time

This was at Zuma in Malibu. I didn't know that some of the worlds largest dolphin pods exist in the area. I've been trying to get out every other day. Sometimes every three days if I'm sore. Work is completely shut down because of a strike, so there's a chance I have at least another two months until I have to go back. My plan is to keep going out as much as I can while staying out longer each session

[mj23]

On the topic of whales and dolphins, there have been a record breaking number of whale deaths in NY and NJ this year. There are debates about why this is happening that I won’t get into right now, but overall it’s definitely related to why more whales and dolphins are swimming closer to shore than they used to. I’ve seen dolphins near the lineup before but in the last few weeks I’ve seen some 20-foot size range whales coming up for air just 20 meters or so away from me. Pretty spooky tbh because I feel like they’re so big they could just swallow me up by accident

[finecojeffe]

On the topic of whales and dolphins, there have been a record breaking number of whale deaths in NY and NJ this year. There are debates about why this is happening that I won’t get into right now, but overall it’s definitely related to why more whales and dolphins are swimming closer to shore than they used to. I’ve seen dolphins near the lineup before but in the last few weeks I’ve seen some 20-foot size range whales coming up for air just 20 meters or so away from me. Pretty spooky tbh because I feel like they’re so big they could just swallow me up by accident

I was surfing in Ocean City NJ last week and was talking with some people about this. It's pretty crazy like 30 whales dead. Extremely sad. I always remember seeing dolphin along shore though, growing up visiting family there so I can't say there seems like more than usual.

On topic of surfing, at least on Tuesday it was about 2'-3' or so and I was able to surf a rounded twin I made a little while back. I left it in NJ since I didn't care much for it when I made it, but somehow with the fin change I made it's turned into probably my favorite board now. I have these flexible glass fins that are basically the MR template but much more flexible and I tossed in a small trailer fin that's a little smaller than the MR trailer as well. With the almost bonzer contours I put into the board its a fast board and works in a range of surf from barely 2' to nearly overhead in a package that's about 5'6" x 19.25".

[Coastal Fever]

Been getting skunked left, right and centre up in NS this spring/summer, been out a handful of times and it’s been nothing but weak wind chop.  Yet to catch a good wave on my new board, and really hoping it’s the conditions and not the board.

With that said, I have low expectations, but I will be in Portland, ME later this month and might try to rent a board if it’s working at all.  Based on my research I’d be looking at Corner’s surf shop near Scarborough Beach, or Higgins.  Any Maine heads have recommendations?

[mj23]

I broke my collarbone skating 2 weeks ago. Got some plates and pins installed and now I’m just waiting to recover

Anyone gotten back to surfing after something similar? I assume my surfing will be more negatively impacted than my skating, and I’ll probably be able to skate again before I can surf.

I have a trip to Kauai scheduled for December, that’s just under 6 months from the day I broke myself off. Really hoping I can be surfing by then, but I suspect even if I am able to to surf I still won’t be firing on all cylinders

[PatrickSkateman]

I broke my collarbone skating 2 weeks ago. Got some plates and pins installed and now I’m just waiting to recover

Anyone gotten back to surfing after something similar? I assume my surfing will be more negatively impacted than my skating, and I’ll probably be able to skate again before I can surf.

I have a trip to Kauai scheduled for December, that’s just under 6 months from the day I broke myself off. Really hoping I can be surfing by then, but I suspect even if I am able to to surf I still won’t be firing on all cylinders

I know we’ve had our differences but…

I have. Pretty bad life threatening stuff actually.

Don’t neglect p/t and don’t take what your doctor or surgeon says lightly. Be conservative with your activities and liberal in rehab.

I heard collarbones are tougher than other injuries. Take it slow if you need to.

Best of luck.

[tuesday]

Afraid to ask, b/c it's probably a stupid question, but do you get used to the sting of salt water in your eyes?

And mj23 I wish you a quick recovery!