Surfing

[Frank and Fred]

I broke my collarbone skating 2 weeks ago. Got some plates and pins installed and now I’m just waiting to recover

Anyone gotten back to surfing after something similar? I assume my surfing will be more negatively impacted than my skating, and I’ll probably be able to skate again before I can surf.

I have a trip to Kauai scheduled for December, that’s just under 6 months from the day I broke myself off. Really hoping I can be surfing by then, but I suspect even if I am able to to surf I still won’t be firing on all cylinders

I dislocated my elbow in early April but was able to surf by late May. Very different injury I know. I feel surfing might be helping it. At first a two hour session left me with a limp useless arm. The other day I got a solid three hour session in. I try to rest it after surfing. I still don't have full range of motion... and recovery seems to be slowing down. Need to figure out how to break up all the scar tissue and re-train my brain to understand my elbow can go further...

All the best with your rehab. December is a long way off. And its summer. Take it easy and follow Doc's orders for a couple of months.

[mj23]

Afraid to ask, b/c it's probably a stupid question, but do you get used to the sting of salt water in your eyes?

And mj23 I wish you a quick recovery!

i find that if my eyes sting when i'm surfing, it's usually from crappy sunscreen running down my face, not from the actual water. i close my eyes when i'm underwater.

thanks for the kind words and the advice everyone

just got my bandages removed today, finally. things are moving along

[Huell Howser]

@tuesday not a stupid question at all! It does sometimes dry out my eyes if I spend a lot of time getting washed around but I usually don’t notice it too much. I do notice that when I get a lot of sun the salt water does start to sting my face a bit more specifically on my cheeks for some reason

My friend essentially gave me this traditional style twin fish




It’s 5’4 which is way tiny for me - so my very average skilled ass was worried about getting up on it, but I was surprised by the width and volume of it. It’s an easy paddle and has a lot of foam at the chest so it doesn’t feel tiny. I’ve only had 2 sessions on it so looking forward to taking it out more and trying to figure it out. my first time on a twin. Also I am not sure who shaped it

[mj23]

@tuesday not a stupid question at all! It does sometimes dry out my eyes if I spend a lot of time getting washed around but I usually don’t notice it too much. I do notice that when I get a lot of sun the salt water does start to sting my face a bit more specifically on my cheeks for some reason

My friend essentially gave me this traditional style twin fish




It’s 5’4 which is way tiny for me - so my very average skilled ass was worried about getting up on it, but I was surprised by the width and volume of it. It’s an easy paddle and has a lot of foam at the chest so it doesn’t feel tiny. I’ve only had 2 sessions on it so looking forward to taking it out more and trying to figure it out. my first time on a twin. Also I am not sure who shaped it

looks fun. i have wanted to try a traditional twin fish for a while now. people ride them pretty short which also gives me doubts, but i'm glad to hear that the width and other factors seem to make it work.

i only have one twin, a weird sort of mini simmons outline with concave bottom (as opposed to more traditional flat planing hull style), around 5'10", and it definitely works better for me than the various 5'10" pointy shortboard i've ridden over the years.

once my arm is at least good enough to move boards around on my storage rack (all too high to reach currently) I think I may use the downtime to sell off some stuff i wasn't riding (i am totally done with my pointy thruster lol) and make room for a fish

[tuesday]

@mj23 and @Huell Howser thank you guys for your answers! Much appreciated.

[Frank and Fred]

Found a few fun ones at the same beach Bodhi paddles out to tackle the 50 year storm, yesterday. Rode my groveler as a twin plus trailer... made 2' weak waves feel like 4' shapely waves.

[finecojeffe]

Nice! Twin plus trailer is my favorite fin setup for almost all waves/boards. Turns thrusters into skateboards, and turns overly loose twins into skateboards also. The only boards I don't care for that setup is ones with a bunch of exit rocker.

[excitableboy]

I've moved and to my surprise there's waves and quite a few surfers here (Italy). Nothing that would impress a Californian but still, I'm stoked. Always wanted to get into surfing. Took a lesson, standing up was quite easy, peddling not so much. Now I want to get some gear and get out there regularly. Would be great to get some advice!

Wetsuit I'll probably get new, is Decathlon decent enough? I read water temperatures go down to about 12 degrees (55F) here in winter, is 4/3 what I need? Gloves and shoes?

Board I'll get second hand I think? I'm thinking I need whatever gets me the most waves in various conditions. Soft top or other? Do I go as long as possible? Limiting factor is I drive a Panda. I doubt it fits anything longer than 7ft. It does have roof racks. Anyone use those to carry surfboards?

I realize I'm in for a long winter kooking it in the whitewash but I'm giddy with excitement. Any pointers more than welcome.

Edit: I did browse this thread before posting. I plan first to rent, maybe try different boards, but pretty soon I'd like to buy as there are few shops around, tying me to a spot and opening hours. Prefer spending a bit more over buying a dud, within reason.

[Coastal Fever]

4/3 might be a little chilly in 55 water, but with gloves, boots, and possibly a hood it should be tolerable.  I tried on a Decathlon suit once and it was so stiff and oddly shaped I couldn’t move in it.  I’d buy a used one by a proper brand before Decathlon.  If you want new and have a few extra bucks to spend, Quiksilver’s Syncro line is decent entry level gear, I’ve got the 4/3 back zip, 7mm boots, and 5mm lobster claws which have served me well enough.

As for the board, soft top would be the safest, floatiest option.. but an epoxy hardtop will feel better, last you longer, and allow for more progression.  I’m a heavier guy and started on an 8’ Torq that was around 65-68L or so.  If you can find a used Torq, NSP, Bic, etc in that length/volume range that would be a great first board.

If you’re standing up first time out you’re way better than I was.  Sounds like you’re ready to start working on your pop-up and turning down the face of the wave.  One of the toughest parts of surfing is just learning where and how your local breaks in certain conditions, and how to position yourself accordingly.  I still get caught off guard and smoked by set waves because I’m chilling too close to shore.  Better to be a little further out and off to the side and miss 1 or 2 waves, than get stuck in the impact zone and miss a bunch then have to fight to paddle back out.

[excitableboy]

4/3 might be a little chilly in 55 water, but with gloves, boots, and possibly a hood it should be tolerable.  I tried on a Decathlon suit once and it was so stiff and oddly shaped I couldn’t move in it.  I’d buy a used one by a proper brand before Decathlon.  If you want new and have a few extra bucks to spend, Quiksilver’s Syncro line is decent entry level gear, I’ve got the 4/3 back zip, 7mm boots, and 5mm lobster claws which have served me well enough.

As for the board, soft top would be the safest, floatiest option.. but an epoxy hardtop will feel better, last you longer, and allow for more progression.  I’m a heavier guy and started on an 8’ Torq that was around 65-68L or so.  If you can find a used Torq, NSP, Bic, etc in that length/volume range that would be a great first board.

If you’re standing up first time out you’re way better than I was.  Sounds like you’re ready to start working on your pop-up and turning down the face of the wave.  One of the toughest parts of surfing is just learning where and how your local breaks in certain conditions, and how to position yourself accordingly.  I still get caught off guard and smoked by set waves because I’m chilling too close to shore.  Better to be a little further out and off to the side and miss 1 or 2 waves, than get stuck in the impact zone and miss a bunch then have to fight to paddle back out.

Thanks! Will look into my options around here. When you say soft top is safer, do you mean for its buoyancy or because it might hit me? As for standing up, this was on already broken waves, nearly skimboarding. Suspect I have a long way to go before I ride down the face. I did observe what you're saying I think, where beginners closer to shore seem to expend far more energy positioning themselves. Bit apprehensive to go further out though.

Do any of you surfing pals work out? I feel as if i'll need to attain a whole new level of fitness.
Ok /kook queries for now.

[mj23]

I recommend trying a few boards before buying if you can. A soft top is safer in the sense that it won’t knock you out if you get hit in the head. You should be prepared that eventually your board will smack your head. That said, I have never really enjoyed a soft top. They just feel sluggish and overly flexible to me. Your mileage might vary. They’re definitely easier to take care of, especially if you want a bigger board and transportation is an issue. Like if I ever got a longboard in my small apartment, I would be concerned about dinging it up on the way in/out, so maybe I’d consider a soft one instead.

…and in fact, I am considering a soft longboard. I want to try like an 88 or a Crime, see if they’re any better than the crap I’ve used before. Because I’m coming back from my broken collarbone and worried I may have trouble paddling for a while.

But it’s good news overall, I’m heading nicely and the doctor actually moved up my expected time to surf again. Originally he predicted November/December, now he’s saying more like early/mid October. So I’ll have a few months to get my chops back before I go to Kauai. I’m hyped

PS— don’t skimp on a wetsuit. It’s the biggest factor in being comfortable during winter.

[Huell Howser]

@excitableboy ask away. this is a safe space and is not even a sliver as annoying as r/surfing hah

as far as fitness goes, I’d say first and foremost being a strong swimmer is most important. sure you will be attached to a piece of foam but something can always go wrong and having confidence in your swimming ability can give you peace of mind. I’ve heard of people drowning while surfing because they didn’t know how to swim. confusing to me… haha

[PatrickSkateman]

Expand Quote

4/3 might be a little chilly in 55 water, but with gloves, boots, and possibly a hood it should be tolerable.  I tried on a Decathlon suit once and it was so stiff and oddly shaped I couldn’t move in it.  I’d buy a used one by a proper brand before Decathlon.  If you want new and have a few extra bucks to spend, Quiksilver’s Syncro line is decent entry level gear, I’ve got the 4/3 back zip, 7mm boots, and 5mm lobster claws which have served me well enough.

As for the board, soft top would be the safest, floatiest option.. but an epoxy hardtop will feel better, last you longer, and allow for more progression.  I’m a heavier guy and started on an 8’ Torq that was around 65-68L or so.  If you can find a used Torq, NSP, Bic, etc in that length/volume range that would be a great first board.

If you’re standing up first time out you’re way better than I was.  Sounds like you’re ready to start working on your pop-up and turning down the face of the wave.  One of the toughest parts of surfing is just learning where and how your local breaks in certain conditions, and how to position yourself accordingly.  I still get caught off guard and smoked by set waves because I’m chilling too close to shore.  Better to be a little further out and off to the side and miss 1 or 2 waves, than get stuck in the impact zone and miss a bunch then have to fight to paddle back out.

[close]

Thanks! Will look into my options around here. When you say soft top is safer, do you mean for its buoyancy or because it might hit me? As for standing up, this was on already broken waves, nearly skimboarding. Suspect I have a long way to go before I ride down the face. I did observe what you're saying I think, where beginners closer to shore seem to expend far more energy positioning themselves. Bit apprehensive to go further out though.

Do any of you surfing pals work out? I feel as if i'll need to attain a whole new level of fitness.
Ok /kook queries for now.

I lift weights 4 days a week, train in 2 martial arts, and play in a tennis league.

[mj23]

@excitableboy ask away. this is a safe space and is not even a sliver as annoying as r/surfing hah

as far as fitness goes, I’d say first and foremost being a strong swimmer is most important. sure you will be attached to a piece of foam but something can always go wrong and having confidence in your swimming ability can give you peace of mind. I’ve heard of people drowning while surfing because they didn’t know how to swim. confusing to me… haha

Reddit is hell, obviously. In my very brief time there I once said “you should never paddle out in a spot where you wouldn’t be comfortable swimming.” Got downvoted into oblivion. I can’t believe it would be a controversial opinion. If you can’t swim it, don’t surf it. Period.

[finecojeffe]

Expand Quote

@excitableboy ask away. this is a safe space and is not even a sliver as annoying as r/surfing hah

as far as fitness goes, I’d say first and foremost being a strong swimmer is most important. sure you will be attached to a piece of foam but something can always go wrong and having confidence in your swimming ability can give you peace of mind. I’ve heard of people drowning while surfing because they didn’t know how to swim. confusing to me… haha

[close]

Reddit is hell, obviously. In my very brief time there I once said “you should never paddle out in a spot where you wouldn’t be comfortable swimming.” Got downvoted into oblivion. I can’t believe it would be a controversial opinion. If you can’t swim it, don’t surf it. Period.

it's really garbage. I was on it for about three weeks before I got booted for some mundane shit, but apparently I asked the wrong question about Kelly Slater in regards to the vaccine and I guess just asking an honest question was enough for me to get banned. Pretty strange.

[Frank and Fred]

As far as getting in shape for surfing, any exercise can help but nothing will help like swimming and paddling, paddling paddling... practice pop ups... maybe some push ups and core strength but paddle paddle paddle....

Been a crap summer up here in Oregon.. and I've been off my game for awhile for various reason... probably going to resort to my mid lengths  just to up the wave count. i have high hopes for this autumn/ winter and el nino... heading back home to wales for a few weeks first though, so maybe catch some Atlantic dribblers over there...

[excitableboy]

My brief kook background for your entertainment:
Many years ago a work mate took me surfing after I had nagged him to do so. He asked me can you swim, well yes I said, of course I can. So we went to Stradbroke Island. We just needed to paddle across the channel he said. Looked doable, or at least he seemed unfazed, so it's probably fine. Halfway there I realized I'd never make it. Ended up swimming the rest, him dragging along the fish he lent me. He kept looking back at me, urging me to keep pace as 'it's a bit sharky here mate'. Passed out from exhaustion on the beach there while he surfed overhead waves. This was my second time surfing and clearly I had no business being there.

The first time was worse still. Work mate again, a mad kiwi cunt, he won't mind me saying. He lived right on the beach with his pyramid scheme buddies, a whole other story. Place was called Palm Beach and it was storming. He's a lifelong surfer and had only his shortboard there, but reckoned it's fine, we'd take turns on it. I had the dumb courage to go along with it. The palm trees swayed violently in the rain as I watched him run across the deserted beach, stoked on the savage looking surf. He got a couple waves and beckoned me in. I struggled through the white water but never managed to get out back. Soon I lost all sight of him and when I looked back at the beach I realized the current had dragged me a long way from where I entered. I swam along the shore as I was once told and it took a frightening while to reach the beach, pummeled.

Well that was all a long time ago and I'm keen to take a more sensible approach now. I will take all your kind suggestions on board. Thanks again.

[Frank and Fred]

Well that was all a long time ago and I'm keen to take a more sensible approach now. I will take all your kind suggestions on board. Thanks again.

Make some mellower friends is my best suggestion .

[tom]

@excitableboy the foamie is for your safety and people around you. Mine has hit me in the head countless times, my leash has slingshot the board back into me, and I've taken a fin to the eyebrow. I probably would've knocked myself out a few times by now and lost some teeth if I were learning on a fiberglass board. I haven't been hit by anyones board, but I see boards flying through the air and people ditching their board while someones paddling out behind them. I always try my hardest to not lose control of my board, especially on the paddle out

My friends also started by taking me out on days that I probably shouldn't have been out on at breaks that aren't beginner friendly. My first lesson was how to get out back. I didn't play in the whitewater until a few weeks into surfing. It's been 5 months now and I've since figured out where the more beginner friendly spots are. I also swapped to a different board in the past couple of weeks; a 7'6 Mick Fanning beastie. It's a harder performance softboard that I swapped in different fins, it has thinner rails, and has about 30 liters less volume than my 8 foot foamie. Still somewhat safe to learn on while riding like a more traditional board

[excitableboy]

Expand Quote

Well that was all a long time ago and I'm keen to take a more sensible approach now. I will take all your kind suggestions on board. Thanks again.

[close]

Make some mellower friends is my best suggestion .

I'm hoping to!

@tom Geez, countless hits to the head in five months time, a few of them potential knock-outs? That's a little disturbing. I plan to surf only tiny beginner breaks for now but still. Point taken on the soft top.

[tom]

I'm going out upwards of 5 days a week for a couple hours at a time. It's happened a handful of times now. I'm glad it was a big piece of soft foam that hit me instead of a fiberglass covered piece of foam

[Frank and Fred]

Never ditch your board. There’s rarely an excuse for it.

[tom]

Never ditch your board. There’s rarely an excuse for it.

im not sure if that was aimed at me, or in general, but I don’t ditch my board. I don’t want it hurting me or someone else, getting in someone’s way, or fucking up someone else’s board. The only time I lose it is when I fall off the board trying to ride the wave. The first time I saw someone get sent in was when they paddled for the shoulder instead of the white water, didn’t make it in time before someone on the wave got too close, and ditched their board right into that person in a panic. The dude riding the wave had their new board dinged and it turned into a big argument in the water

[Huell Howser]

Never ditch your board. There’s rarely an excuse for it.

Unfortunately living proof of that today. Surfing this peaky spot and I pulled into a barrel(does not happen often for me hah) and made it out. As the wave closed out some kid was paddling out down the line in front of me. He ditched his board and it flipped back with the nose nailing me in the face. Lots of blood

10 stitches later, a nose fracture, a black eye and I’m all good hah

[Blue Fescue]

ohhh that is rough.

We got some hurricane swell here in NC yesterday.  it was pretty big and soft/sloped so was fun and easy to catch. 
took out a 7'4" Bing Collector set up Quad and it was great.  I love Bing rails.

[botefdunn]

@Huell Howser that sucks, soooo annoying to get hurt by someone else's negligence, like there aren't enough ways to hurt ourselves already.

Just got back from a month-long roadtrip, I hit up some river surf spots. Dayton Ohio has a cool little manmade wave right downtown on the Miami. Anither one outside Billings Montana. No heavy shredding, but it was fun to get wet inland.

[Coastal Fever]

Sold the 7’2 Safari Two Step at a small loss, before I dinged it up too bad to get a good price for it.  My stupid mistake for thinking I’d be able to surf a mini longboard similarly to an egg. 

Haven’t been boardless in years and it sucks, but the used market here is non-existent and  I don’t want to drop a paycheck on something new unless I’m confident it’ll be a keeper.

As kooky as it sounds, I want something like the Torq funboard I had before.  7’6, in the mid-50s volume range, with foam under the chest but still enough nose rocker and pointyness to turn aggressively when it allows.  Have heard great things about the LibTech Pickup Stick but the nose on it still looks pretty full so I dunno.

[Frank and Fred]

Expand Quote

Never ditch your board. There’s rarely an excuse for it.

[close]

Unfortunately living proof of that today. Surfing this peaky spot and I pulled into a barrel(does not happen often for me hah) and made it out. As the wave closed out some kid was paddling out down the line in front of me. He ditched his board and it flipped back with the nose nailing me in the face. Lots of blood

10 stitches later, a nose fracture, a black eye and I’m all good hah

Oh shit... just saw this... did the kid know what damage he caused?

Surf has turned on up here. Scored a classic (a personal fav) PNW spot last Sunday. Long walled up rights with five people on it. Surfed my mid length as I am being lazy after bouncing back from covid. Might short board today. heading out for the pushing tide later this afternoon.

[breezy_again]

shit is hard as fuck, respect to all yall doin it

[Frank and Fred]

Fun little session last night. Tide was too high and swell was on its way out so I set up the mid length as a twin with a tiny trailer fin and made the most of the weak waves. Glassy walls and a perfect late summer evening. Might try again tomorrow.