Surfing

[Hash Slinging Slasher]

i've been having such a blast surfing a lot lately. so weird i spent a pretty long time teaching myself and felt like i was making very little progress, proceeded to move somewhere where i couldn't surf for 4-ish years, and now i've come back and can surf pretty well no problem. fingers crossed the waves get better soon and, as fun as it is, i can get off the mini glider!

[Dad you're embarrassing me]

Fun little session last night. Tide was too high and swell was on its way out so I set up the mid length as a twin with a tiny trailer fin and made the most of the weak waves. Glassy walls and a perfect late summer evening. Might try again tomorrow.

How good are midlength twins? I bought one mid winter (Australia) and literally haven’t ridden my short board since! Works in everything from big, hollow reefbreaks to small, gutless beachies 👌

[finecojeffe]

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Fun little session last night. Tide was too high and swell was on its way out so I set up the mid length as a twin with a tiny trailer fin and made the most of the weak waves. Glassy walls and a perfect late summer evening. Might try again tomorrow.

[close]

How good are midlength twins? I bought one mid winter (Australia) and literally haven’t ridden my short board since! Works in everything from big, hollow reefbreaks to small, gutless beachies 👌

Love me some mid twins and up. I have a 7’5” and a 8’3” that I made, both twins. 7’5” is round tail and the 8’3” is a squash. Both are single into double out to vee. They seem to love almost any wave short of a dredging hollow barreling beach break. Probably the most smiles of any board I have.

[Dad you're embarrassing me]

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Fun little session last night. Tide was too high and swell was on its way out so I set up the mid length as a twin with a tiny trailer fin and made the most of the weak waves. Glassy walls and a perfect late summer evening. Might try again tomorrow.

[close]

How good are midlength twins? I bought one mid winter (Australia) and literally haven’t ridden my short board since! Works in everything from big, hollow reefbreaks to small, gutless beachies 👌

[close]

Love me some mid twins and up. I have a 7’5” and a 8’3” that I made, both twins. 7’5” is round tail and the 8’3” is a squash. Both are single into double out to vee. They seem to love almost any wave short of a dredging hollow barreling beach break. Probably the most smiles of any board I have.

You shaped them yourself? That’s awesome! Definitely something I’d love to do at some stage. Mine is 6’9, 40L, you can still chuck it around, but it will trim the high line, a much classier way to get through fast sections than wiggling my ass on a thruster 😂
I actually plan on getting a similar board in a 6’4 with more nose rocker but same tail, for slabs…

[finecojeffe]

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Fun little session last night. Tide was too high and swell was on its way out so I set up the mid length as a twin with a tiny trailer fin and made the most of the weak waves. Glassy walls and a perfect late summer evening. Might try again tomorrow.

[close]

How good are midlength twins? I bought one mid winter (Australia) and literally haven’t ridden my short board since! Works in everything from big, hollow reefbreaks to small, gutless beachies 👌

[close]

Love me some mid twins and up. I have a 7’5” and a 8’3” that I made, both twins. 7’5” is round tail and the 8’3” is a squash. Both are single into double out to vee. They seem to love almost any wave short of a dredging hollow barreling beach break. Probably the most smiles of any board I have.

[close]

You shaped them yourself? That’s awesome! Definitely something I’d love to do at some stage. Mine is 6’9, 40L, you can still chuck it around, but it will trim the high line, a much classier way to get through fast sections than wiggling my ass on a thruster 😂
I actually plan on getting a similar board in a 6’4 with more nose rocker but same tail, for slabs…

Yes, shaped them in my house. Certainly an enjoyable hobby for me. Here's the 8'3" and 7'7", and 7'5" I've made. The 7'7" was for a friend, we call it Manute Bol. The 7'5" sort of became my sons board as he found he preferred it over all others and the 8'3" has been my magic carpet for the past few years. It just goes.

[Ricky Vaughn]

[Frank and Fred]

Went out last weekend thinking it was going to be pretty small only to be greeted by reeling overheard waves with some crack to them. Stupidly I only bought my groveller, a very wide round nose, 5'10" with a tonne of volume (A bit like a Lost Bean Bag). Paddling out I wished I had my step up  thruster but managed to snag a few. Once I made the drop and engaged the fins, I was able to keep the board somewhat under control but the damn thing wanted to take off. I've never felt a surfboard and fins vibrate like that... Really had to surf hard off the tail... Anyway, lesson learned again... always pack two boards in Oregon...

[Dad you're embarrassing me]

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Fun little session last night. Tide was too high and swell was on its way out so I set up the mid length as a twin with a tiny trailer fin and made the most of the weak waves. Glassy walls and a perfect late summer evening. Might try again tomorrow.

[close]

How good are midlength twins? I bought one mid winter (Australia) and literally haven’t ridden my short board since! Works in everything from big, hollow reefbreaks to small, gutless beachies 👌

[close]

Love me some mid twins and up. I have a 7’5” and a 8’3” that I made, both twins. 7’5” is round tail and the 8’3” is a squash. Both are single into double out to vee. They seem to love almost any wave short of a dredging hollow barreling beach break. Probably the most smiles of any board I have.

[close]

You shaped them yourself? That’s awesome! Definitely something I’d love to do at some stage. Mine is 6’9, 40L, you can still chuck it around, but it will trim the high line, a much classier way to get through fast sections than wiggling my ass on a thruster 😂
I actually plan on getting a similar board in a 6’4 with more nose rocker but same tail, for slabs…

[close]

Yes, shaped them in my house. Certainly an enjoyable hobby for me. Here's the 8'3" and 7'7", and 7'5" I've made. The 7'7" was for a friend, we call it Manute Bol. The 7'5" sort of became my sons board as he found he preferred it over all others and the 8'3" has been my magic carpet for the past few years. It just goes.

Beautiful! Where did you learn to shape?

[finecojeffe]

Self taught, but also asked a lot of shapers questions through instagram. A surprising amount of pro shapers are pretty generous with info I've found. Kazuma on IG is super friendly and willing to answer questions, also provides great info nearly every day via instagram. I also always do the rail test any time I go into a shop and just basically compare what I shape to what I like in order to improve each board. I've also met a few shapers in person and asked for critique. One of the guys from Impact surfboards here in FL has been nice to provide some feedback as wellas a local guy Carlos of C-Shapes.

[Coastal Fever]

I decided to take it easy on myself, and my wallet, while shopping for my next one board quiver.  Managed to score this used 8’ Spider MiniMal in near perfect shape for way under retail.  The size makes it an easy paddle but the rails are refined enough that it’s pretty versatile.  Heavy glass job is a plus too considering how and where I surf.  Really happy with this one and hoping to keep it for a long time.

[Dad you're embarrassing me]

Self taught, but also asked a lot of shapers questions through instagram. A surprising amount of pro shapers are pretty generous with info I've found. Kazuma on IG is super friendly and willing to answer questions, also provides great info nearly every day via instagram. I also always do the rail test any time I go into a shop and just basically compare what I shape to what I like in order to improve each board. I've also met a few shapers in person and asked for critique. One of the guys from Impact surfboards here in FL has been nice to provide some feedback as wellas a local guy Carlos of C-Shapes.

Damn you’ve got me inspired haha

[finecojeffe]

Go make yourself a board! It's therapeutic skilled labor I feel. Plenty of resources out there. There's definitely a thing or two that you absolutely need to figure out for yourself, such as how thick or thin to foil the nose and tail. Let me tell you that most backyard shapers leave their boards way too thick and it's obvious from 10 feet away. If you ever get around to trying it, just shoot some questions my way and I'll see if I can answer them.

[Frank and Fred]

Do you glass your own boards also @finecojeffe ?

[finecojeffe]

Do you glass your own boards also @finecojeffe ?

yes, everything is done in-house, literally in my house. From cutting and shaping, to the airbrushing, even the laminate making is done fairly old school via taping rice paper to standard sheets of paper and running them through a copier or a toner printer when I have that available. And finally glassing is done in a back room in my house with a vent open and fan blowing outside.

[botefdunn]

Hi @Coastal Fever, I hit up your dms but not sure if you see those too much. I see that sweet 8' ride you got and wondering if this time of year you think ill be alright on my 5'9 out in your waters? Heading to scotia for November.

[Coastal Fever]

@botefdunn My bad!  Just saw this/your msg.  Dm’ed you back.

[tkp]

I found a board in a dumpster a couple months ago that only needed a little quarter size hole patched up. Turns out it has been the perfect mini gun type shape and made me not dread duck diving.

Yesterday there was a shark incident at a spot I was surfing a few hours prior. Someone's leg got bit.

Big swell is on the way to the Northern California coast. 15-20ft predicted at SFOB, so it's either find somewhere sheltered that can turn that insane energy into something manageable / way less life threatening, or grab the binoculars and go watch people charge Mavericks.

[mj23]

after getting my life derailed by a busted collarbone and surgery i FINALLY got back in the water recently. two sessions back, i'm not doing as badly as i expected. it's hard to fit surfing in with physical therapy 2x a week, especially when good conditions happen on a day that i have an appointment... i can only skip so much work! but it feels good to be back

[Frank and Fred]

Been focussing on getting back on my shortboards recently and loving it. Hard to beat when the waves co operate. Slightly overheard beach break thumpers today. Felt really at ease on my 6'5" retro ripper....

Pic makes it look way pointier than it is but its solid Daily Driver for Oregon Autumn/ Winter...

[tkp]

after getting my life derailed by a busted collarbone and surgery i FINALLY got back in the water recently. two sessions back, i'm not doing as badly as i expected. it's hard to fit surfing in with physical therapy 2x a week, especially when good conditions happen on a day that i have an appointment... i can only skip so much work! but it feels good to be back

glad to hear you are back at it.


some recent video from a few days ago. the amount of people charging bigger waves has definitely increased over the years.

[finecojeffe]

Ever since I saw that clip of the guy getting buzzed by the white at OB, I always think they're just lurking waiting for one sucker out there. Aside from that, the waves of consequence look worth going for though.


Finally a few days of waves here in Sobe. Had a tropical system make its way through the other day so we had the typical tropichop, but at least yesterday cleaned up a little and we had some head high to overhead waves. Jellies also cleared out, but Tuesday they were everywhere and I just got stung all over.

[botefdunn]

Happy new year ya'll.
I'm hitting the outer banks tomorrow and would love to hear any advice or past experiences. I'm just some guy on a roadtrip sleeping at skate parks and trying to catch a few waves. Laundromats is where im planning to go tomorrrow.

[mj23]

i went to kauai a few weeks ago, been having some health issues so i tried to take it easy but i still caught a bunch of really fun little peelers.

on my last day i stepped to a slightly bigger wave at an unfamiliar spot, in the rain, and got smacked down onto the reef. the wave seemed so soft and playful on the shoulder, but i think it just had a gnarly lip at the peak from jacking up over a shallower section of reef. that's shit i'm really not used to here in beachbreak land. i'm totally fine, but it was a reality check, those tropical reef spots are not a joke, even when they look small.

[Petite_Vagues]

been occasionally lurking slap since probably 07/08 but just today decided to look up surfing on here. Was excited to a long term thread going. I surf the panhandle of Florida and at this point surf more often than skate. Those handshakes up there look dope.

[PatrickSkateman]

Who else here throws skate stickers on surfboards and which?

[Frank and Fred]

Years ago I'd throw stickers on my boards. I like to cut a big AH eagle in half and slap that on the base right off the rail. I also have a five fin box board that I don't use the rear box on, so slapped an eagle over it for better hydrodynamics haha but then wanted to try it as twin plus trailer so oiled it off eventually.

Anyway, after a bit of sun exposure, as you know, white boards darken and yellow a bit... When you peel the stickers off the section the sticker covered remains white and makes the rest of the board look even shittier... not good for resale appeal and I always sell my old boards....

so no stickers anymore...

[Frank and Fred]

Sidenote. I haven't surfed in 2024. Could be some fun waves on Friday when I am off but now I have a total mental block about it...

[PatrickSkateman]

Years ago I'd throw stickers on my boards. I like to cut a big AH eagle in half and slap that on the base right off the rail. I also have a five fin box board that I don't use the rear box on, so slapped an eagle over it for better hydrodynamics haha but then wanted to try it as twin plus trailer so oiled it off eventually.

Anyway, after a bit of sun exposure, as you know, white boards darken and yellow a bit... When you peel the stickers off the section the sticker covered remains white and makes the rest of the board look even shittier... not good for resale appeal and I always sell my old boards....

so no stickers anymore...

I’m keeping both my Merricks and my Superfish. Don’t plan on getting anything new except maybe a Hypto Krypto or a Party Crasher.

I threw an Eagle on all my boards. It looks sick. One’s got a Quasi sticker too.

I may mess around with some spray paint too.

[PatrickSkateman]

Sidenote. I haven't surfed in 2024. Could be some fun waves on Friday when I am off but now I have a total mental block about it...

I’ve surfed once this year. I hate putting on and taking off the winter suit, gloves, and booties.

[Coastal Fever]

Saw a guy who modified a Krooked sticker to say Kook on his board, thought that was clever. 

Before I started skating lots again last year I was getting frustrated and burnt out on trying to progress my surfing.  Then recently I started getting tired of trying to self film skate clips.  Therefore, I’ve decided that 2024 will be the year of just doing things for fun again.  Making a stronger effort to enter situations with zero expectations.