Surfing

[mj23]

Who else here throws skate stickers on surfboards and which?

i usually keep a few stickers in my car/toolbox/suitcase/wherever in case i need to cover up a small ding.

which reminds me, i've had a skateshop sticker on one board for a while now, but it may be time to get that thing fixed properly...

[finecojeffe]

I've had stickers in the past, to cover up blems, but I haven't had luck with them staying on permanently so I stopped.

Anyway got some really good waves last night till dark and some this morning. But this morning I had a fairly nasty wipeout. Just took off on a barely overhead wave and snagged my leg rope and went down full force smacking the side of my head and ear on the water and completely knocking the wind out of me. Tough time making it to the surface because i couldn't tell which way was up due to the ear smack messing with my equilibrium. Now a few hours later it feels like someone punched me in the jaw, so breakfast wasn't eaten because I couldn't chew. Oddly enough one guy was wearing a helmet and I just wondered to myself, before my wipeout, why anyone would wear a helmet for beach break. Kinda wish I had one on for that specific wipeout.

Also there's way too many people in the water here. It sucks dropping in and knowing someone will definitely be on the shoulder (or two people).

[Frank and Fred]

Surfing in crowds is tough. I can't really do it anymore. I can barely skate with people unless it's the right setting. I might have some heightening social anxiety that comes to the surface when surfing and  skateboarding. Two activities I use to escape the bullshit... I'm being a bit of a baby but certainly wrestling with it after a lifetime of equating my mental health with wave-riding and grinding.

[finecojeffe]

Definitely less fun with crowds. I really prefer crappy weather days and big wind chop specifically because nobody wants to surf when it's like that, except for just a few of us. I get to see the same people when it's like that too, rather than a crowd full of strangers faces.

[tom]

I have a kind of kooky question for anyone that can answer it, but how can you tell if you have a dud of a board?

After moving on from a foamie I got an 8’ funboard/minimal and I just can’t seem to get on with it. I think it’s relatively flat with maybe a tiny bit of entry rocker and a big wide nose. I can barely catch waves with it. Meanwhile I also grabbed a 9’6 single fin that will catch any wave I turn for, someone gave me a 7’6 Mick Fanning hybrid epoxy board, and I’ve borrowed a groveller from someone else. All of them seem to paddle and surf perfectly fine except for the 8’ funboard. Or maybe more realistically it is me and the board is perfectly fine. For now I’m gonna stick with the 7’6 for the LA beach breaks and then use the 9’6 when it’s really small or for the points

[mj23]

I would say that if you have other boards that seem to work, you don’t need to be too too worried about this one stinker. Just get rid of it. Make note of the dimensions and take some photos beforehand, and use that to eventually figure out what exactly didn’t work for you. I keep a document in my notes app with my impressions of all the different boards i have owned/ride/borrow/rent etc.

On a different note today I went to one of my local spots and found a super rare occurrence: recent sand replenishment actually made it work *better*, not worse. Who knows how long it will last, but at least it’s fun right now

[finecojeffe]

I have a kind of kooky question for anyone that can answer it, but how can you tell if you have a dud of a board?

After moving on from a foamie I got an 8’ funboard/minimal and I just can’t seem to get on with it. I think it’s relatively flat with maybe a tiny bit of entry rocker and a big wide nose. I can barely catch waves with it. Meanwhile I also grabbed a 9’6 single fin that will catch any wave I turn for, someone gave me a 7’6 Mick Fanning hybrid epoxy board, and I’ve borrowed a groveller from someone else. All of them seem to paddle and surf perfectly fine except for the 8’ funboard. Or maybe more realistically it is me and the board is perfectly fine. For now I’m gonna stick with the 7’6 for the LA beach breaks and then use the 9’6 when it’s really small or for the points

post a pic of the dud board.

It's possible to be a million reasons out there. I used to favor forward food surfing and would struggle getting used to some boards. I've also had boards with too much rocker, some with too little, also depends on the conditions too. High tide and low tide aren't too significant here, but still at low tide a flat board here can be a chore, but then too much rocker and you're having equally tough time because waves are often quick. Who knows.

[Coastal Fever]

I’ve owned two midlengths with wide flat noses, and sold both immediately after realizing it’s like trying to surf a shoebox.  Obviously they work for some people, but I need less foam/more rocker in the nose, otherwise I’m always putting too much or not enough weight forward to drop in and get to my feet.  The 7’6 + 9’6 sounds like a solid combo to me.  Sell the 8’ to a beginner who won’t know the difference and either pocket the cash or sell the epoxy board too and combine the funds for something similarly shaped.

[tom]

Expand Quote

I have a kind of kooky question for anyone that can answer it, but how can you tell if you have a dud of a board?

After moving on from a foamie I got an 8’ funboard/minimal and I just can’t seem to get on with it. I think it’s relatively flat with maybe a tiny bit of entry rocker and a big wide nose. I can barely catch waves with it. Meanwhile I also grabbed a 9’6 single fin that will catch any wave I turn for, someone gave me a 7’6 Mick Fanning hybrid epoxy board, and I’ve borrowed a groveller from someone else. All of them seem to paddle and surf perfectly fine except for the 8’ funboard. Or maybe more realistically it is me and the board is perfectly fine. For now I’m gonna stick with the 7’6 for the LA beach breaks and then use the 9’6 when it’s really small or for the points

[close]

post a pic of the dud board.

It's possible to be a million reasons out there. I used to favor forward food surfing and would struggle getting used to some boards. I've also had boards with too much rocker, some with too little, also depends on the conditions too. High tide and low tide aren't too significant here, but still at low tide a flat board here can be a chore, but then too much rocker and you're having equally tough time because waves are often quick. Who knows.

It feels like it usually gets hung up in the lip when I do catch a wave with it more often than not. I've tried positioning further up on the board and arching my back more but I still have to push it down the wave face. I'm gonna hold onto it for a bit longer while riding the other boards and try to sell it once summer comes around

[finecojeffe]

yeah it's tough to tell just looking at that one. Are you taking off down the line? You can always lay prone for a few waves to see if that takeoff needs an extra paddle out of you, just a suggestion to find the sweet spot. Definitely worth holding onto until you're certain it just doesn't work with you. I've been there with boards a few times, but have also been convinced of a board being a dud then surfing it months later to find it's really fun.

[tom]

I can usually take off down the line fairly easily. The waves seem to roll right under me or I get caught up in the lip and try to force a couple more paddles in. I’ve tried to sit a little more inside and tried to take off right at the peak. There have been a handful of sessions that it seemed to work and a whole lot more where it frustrates the hell out of me. It’s gonna stay at home while I ride one of my two other boards for a few months at least and I’ll re-asses whether to keep it or sell it

[Frank and Fred]

First surf of 2024 and first surf in months. Took out the 7'6 quad that is more tuned to big waves but wanted the volume and ease of wave catching since I am out of surf shape. Anyway, found some shoulder high left hand nugs and got a tonne of waves. Bogged some turns thinking I was on a shortboard but once I adjusted.... it was a nice reminder that I can actually surf... massive mental unblock for me. Maybe a dawn patrol on Friday...

[mj23]

First surf of 2024 and first surf in months. Took out the 7'6 quad that is more tuned to big waves but wanted the volume and ease of wave catching since I am out of surf shape. Anyway, found some shoulder high left hand nugs and got a tonne of waves. Bogged some turns thinking I was on a shortboard but once I adjusted.... it was a nice reminder that I can actually surf... massive mental unblock for me. Maybe a dawn patrol on Friday...

Sometimes time away is good.

If you want to break through a wall, it’s better to take a step back and wind up first rather than standing right next to it and pushing.

[Frank and Fred]

For sure. I had a similar block with skateboarding in my early 30s... Hoping I can find my surf flow again...

[Coastal Fever]

Picked up this used Stewart Tuflite Hydro Hull Fun the other day.  7’8 x 22-1/2 x 3 - 56L.  Don’t know why I like epoxy boards so much, they definitely are corkier, but when the shape is good they’re a blast to me.  Maybe because I worry less about damaging it.  Really need to sell my Mini Mal asap though, I’ve got a one board quiver bank account rn.

[PatrickSkateman]

I just added a brand new 6’8, 54L Haydenshapes to the quiver.

Perfect for those 2-3 ft Jersey waves.

[Shtonk]

Caty Simmers is the most exciting thing to happen to competition surfing since JJF. She's made it that, just like SLS, I actually enjoy the women's competition more than the men's now, although the current format with that Lower Trestles finals bullshit is doing everything it can to make the WSL unattractive.

[DiscountCanofTuna]

Caty Simmers is the most exciting thing to happen to competition surfing since JJF. She's made it that, just like SLS, I actually enjoy the women's competition more than the men's now, although the current format with that Lower Trestles finals bullshit is doing everything it can to make the WSL unattractive.

I've been watching heaps of WSL over the last couple of years, the women's side is going off! The final at Bells was genuinely edge of your seat stuff and Picklum's 10 at Pipe was sick. Not a fan of the final 5 either but love the way the comp is run with head to head heats, better format than SLS for me