DLX Shapes

[fakie nollie]

I got a 8.5 easy rider labeled IV on the top ply

I guess I’ve never ridden a super mellow concave board in the 25 years I’ve skated because this felt pretty weird. It almost felt convex because of how I could feel the entire board with my foot down. On a kick flip, it felt like too much of my foot was making contact with the grip and almost felt too… grippy? Can’t explain it.

Switch and nollie felt great though. I was able to have my sliding foot much closer to the bolts and get the same grip/ pop I’d get on a more concave deck.

I’m not as eloquent as @Lou Strux with my description but the TLDR is I’ll need time to get used to this. Will report back on how it feels on transition and ledges this week.

[Xen]

I got a 8.5 easy rider labeled IV on the top ply

I guess I’ve never ridden a super mellow concave board in the 25 years I’ve skated because this felt pretty weird. It almost felt convex because of how I could feel the entire board with my foot down. On a kick flip, it felt like too much of my foot was making contact with the grip and almost felt too… grippy? Can’t explain it.

Switch and nollie felt great though. I was able to have my sliding foot much closer to the bolts and get the same grip/ pop I’d get on a more concave deck.

I’m not as eloquent as @Lou Strux with my description but the TLDR is I’ll need time to get used to this. Will report back on how it feels on transition and ledges this week.

Yup, they can feel flat/no kick to feeling convex; I skated a PSSTix Toy machine recently (the twin tail), and the kicks were so flat feeling coming of a BBS that I had to keep checking where my foot was on the kicks and the concave was non-existent/felt convex at first. This real does not feel that way (to me, as it's steeper than that Toy board).

Put a bit more time on mine before the rain came (ugh); still paired with the forged 5.6 ventures so that 14" wheelbase feels totally fine with those fingers of flat and length. Zero issues there and I'm a whiney bitch when it comes to 14" WBs...now I know: MOAR fingers of flat the taller you are with a short WB (which is why I could skate the 8.25/14"WB primitives with ventures and be ok with it). This is essentially a DLX primitive spec (flat, medium long kicks, short WB).

I don't have anything negative to say about it as it feels really nice; you do have to like that 8.25 FULL SE nose and tail shapes tho, it's not for everyone (and these kicks are longer than the standard full se).

[Ok]

Expand Quote

I got a 8.5 easy rider labeled IV on the top ply

I guess I’ve never ridden a super mellow concave board in the 25 years I’ve skated because this felt pretty weird. It almost felt convex because of how I could feel the entire board with my foot down. On a kick flip, it felt like too much of my foot was making contact with the grip and almost felt too… grippy? Can’t explain it.

Switch and nollie felt great though. I was able to have my sliding foot much closer to the bolts and get the same grip/ pop I’d get on a more concave deck.

I’m not as eloquent as @Lou Strux with my description but the TLDR is I’ll need time to get used to this. Will report back on how it feels on transition and ledges this week.

[close]

Yup, they can feel flat/no kick to feeling convex; I skated a PSSTix Toy machine recently (the twin tail), and the kicks were so flat feeling coming of a BBS that I had to keep checking where my foot was on the kicks and the concave was non-existent/felt convex at first. This real does not feel that way (to me, as it's steeper than that Toy board).

Put a bit more time on mine before the rain came (ugh); still paired with the forged 5.6 ventures so that 14" wheelbase feels totally fine with those fingers of flat and length. Zero issues there and I'm a whiney bitch when it comes to 14" WBs...now I know: MOAR fingers of flat the taller you are with a short WB (which is why I could skate the 8.25/14"WB primitives with ventures and be ok with it). This is essentially a DLX primitive spec (flat, medium long kicks, short WB).

I don't have anything negative to say about it as it feels really nice; you do have to like that 8.25 FULL SE nose and tail shapes tho, it's not for everyone (and these kicks are longer than the standard full se).

what are the advantages/disadvantages of longer nose/tail? i’ve always picked short tails, and maybe that worked better on venture lo’s and small wheels….i tried the april 8.125 and it felt like it had longer kicks, and at the time, didn’t work for me.
maybe i’ve been doing the longer tail thing all wrong.
the only time i can remember really liking a longer tail deck, was the ….i cannot remember the shape code of top (maybe G027?), the girl board that is ‘8.25’, tapers, has a longer tail than nose. used that board wot ace classic 44s, and big wheels and it worked great. i feel like maybe it was the big wheels and the longer tail. dunno.

[Xen]

Long tail/kicks, at the base level, give you more room to sit on slides; a longer/mellower kick will also lessen your krook angles (so you are not so 'boned' in them); they also give the board the length needed for a wide stance/you are tall and riding a short WB, provided the deck has enough fingers of flat.

Take an NHS board, 31.8", 14.18WB, 1/to almost no fingers of flat, steep kicks that are average/short (6.5 tail) to me, that board is going to feel super cramped because the kicks ramp up so fast (fewer fingers) and due to how steep they are, my stance will be more closed by comparison.  Even with forged ventures pushing out both WBs, the NHS board, even with a slightly longer WB will feel tighter/more cramped.

Basically, with primitives or this REAL, I get the feeling of a longer WB board but still get the tight flippity feel of the small WB.

It also rings true (in my experience) to what the Proff had to say: steeper/fewer fingers = more power, more fingers/mellower, more finesse.

Given how I skate (fast, big pop, no style), I should be on longer WB/steep boards w/fewer fingers of flat to maximize my pop. That's the only thing I can feel different with this real (or Primitive) boards vs say a DSM board, are my 'straight over shit' flat ground (over boxes, dead bodies or hydrants, etc.) ollies, on a mellower board I have to try harder for height vs just explosive pop and up!

[Ok]

Long tail/kicks, at the base level, give you more room to sit on slides; a longer/mellower kick will also lessen your krook angles (so you are not so 'boned' in them); they also give the board the length needed for a wide stance/you are tall and riding a short WB, provided the deck has enough fingers of flat.

Take an NHS board, 31.8", 14.18WB, 1/to almost no fingers of flat, steep kicks that are average/short (6.5 tail) to me, that board is going to feel super cramped because the kicks ramp up so fast (fewer fingers) and due to how steep they are, my stance will be more closed by comparison.  Even with forged ventures pushing out both WBs, the NHS board, even with a slightly longer WB will feel tighter/more cramped.

Basically, with primitives or this REAL, I get the feeling of a longer WB board but still get the tight flippity feel of the small WB.

It also rings true (in my experience) to what the Proff had to say: steeper/fewer fingers = more power, more fingers/mellower, more finesse.

Given how I skate (fast, big pop, no style), I should be on longer WB/steep boards w/fewer fingers of flat to maximize my pop. That's the only thing I can feel different with this real (or Primitive) boards vs say a DSM board, are my 'straight over shit' flat ground (over boxes, dead bodies or hydrants, etc.) ollies, on a mellower board I have to try harder for height vs just explosive pop and up!

thank you!!

i guess another way to look at it would be that if you already have the pop, skate the flatter board for
more control.
but i also appreciate the moving towards a strength, as opposed to trying to do it all.
as an off topic aside: koston was the first, in my memory, to kind of be able to ‘do it all’, seemingly. i appreciated that a lot.
but i am really stoked that others came afterwards that were severely limited/gifted, in specific areas.

all of this is making me want to try one of these boards, or a primitive

[Sedition]

...they also give the board the length needed for a wide stance/you are tall and riding a short WB, provided the deck has enough fingers of flat.

Take an NHS board, 31.8", 14.18WB, 1/to almost no fingers of flat, steep kicks that are average/short (6.5 tail) to me, that board is going to feel super cramped because the kicks ramp up so fast (fewer fingers) and due to how steep they are, my stance will be more closed by comparison.  Even with forged ventures pushing out both WBs, the NHS board, even with a slightly longer WB will feel tighter/more cramped.

Ok, cool to see someone else thinking this way. A few years back I developed* the concept of deck "foot bed." The "foot bed" of a deck is roughly the area between the kicks (on top of deck). Steeper kicks/less fingers of flat is going to make the "foot bed" feel shorter. Mellower kicks/more fingers of flat is going to make the "foot bed" feel longer. Hence, a DLX "I" stamp will have a shorter feeling foot bed than a DLX "IV" stamp, even if they are the exact same deck. Deck wheelbase will also have some impact on foot bed feel, too, whereas truck wheelbase will have zero impact on how the "foot bed" feels.   

*By no means am I implying that I am the only/first person who thought of this, but rather, that I "discovered" the concept for myself for the first time. 

[Mbrimson88]

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...they also give the board the length needed for a wide stance/you are tall and riding a short WB, provided the deck has enough fingers of flat.

Take an NHS board, 31.8", 14.18WB, 1/to almost no fingers of flat, steep kicks that are average/short (6.5 tail) to me, that board is going to feel super cramped because the kicks ramp up so fast (fewer fingers) and due to how steep they are, my stance will be more closed by comparison.  Even with forged ventures pushing out both WBs, the NHS board, even with a slightly longer WB will feel tighter/more cramped.

[close]

Ok, cool to see someone else thinking this way. A few years back I developed* the concept of deck "foot bed." The "foot bed" of a deck is roughly the area between the kicks (on top of deck). Steeper kicks/less fingers of flat is going to make the "foot bed" feel shorter. Mellower kicks/more fingers of flat is going to make the "foot bed" feel longer. Hence, a DLX "I" stamp will have a shorter feeling foot bed than a DLX "IV" stamp, even if they are the exact same deck. Deck wheelbase will also have some impact on foot bed feel, too, whereas truck wheelbase will have zero impact on how the "foot bed" feels.   

*By no means am I implying that I am the only/first person who thought of this, but rather, that I "discovered" the concept for myself for the first time.

Totally makes sense.

Never a worry with who or when in discovery - it is not a patent people are fighting over - more so just the concept as you put into words and easy to understand and then relate to from skating a lot of different boards.

I always felt that the press / mold dictates the wheelbase of any board, eg longer press for longer wheelbase, shorter press for shorter wheelbase, so that there is only a limited number of different options you would have from any one press, in that regard.

Similarly I think some presses work better for some widths, eg a steeper press works better for thinner boards, a more mellow side to side concave in a press works better for much wider boards, but could also be used to make really flat concave boards too, if it came down to that.

That is where the 8.38 having a longer wheelbase is often a little more mellow in concave, as it seems to be made on bigger, longer and wider presses, than some others, but that is more just me thinking out loud.


This is where DLX in general is really good with shapes, their specific presses for certain boards, compared to some others that just seem a little here or there when comparing boards and feel of concaves, wheelbases, etc.

[smg1138]

What's the deal with the Real Full SE shapes these days? The 8.25 is absolutely perfect for me shape and dimension wise, but I can't find one anywhere. Are these shapes just something DLX releases every so often or what?

[Sedition]

What's the deal with the Real Full SE shapes these days? The 8.25 is absolutely perfect for me shape and dimension wise, but I can't find one anywhere. Are these shapes just something DLX releases every so often or what?

^ May heart goes out to you, as this is the exact issue I was talking about last week on here. It sucks when (a) you find something perfect, and (b) mfg produces so many variations, that it's impossible to obtain regular and consistent availability of said product.

DLX makes too much stuff for their/our own good.

[CarcassToss]

I rode the 8.38 Full SE religiously for a while and liked the 8.25 as well. I guess the True Fits won out that battle, which sorta makes sense cuz more kids can now buy DLX decks.

What I wish DLX did was make logical sizes. The 8.06 is just a trimmed 8.25, but oddly long for the dimensions. I hate the 8.25 shape and wish the 8.25 Full SE was the normal 8.25. It's so weird with a long wheelbase and kinda steep rise after the bolts. Then the 8.38, even the normal ones, have flatter kicks but get the long ass wb and the 8.5 has the dims of an 8.25 except for width. Maybe just trim that in the middle and make it an 8.25? Make it all make sense before you need a Pepe Silvia web diagram to figure out which skateboard is the size you want.

[Xen]

Expand Quote

What's the deal with the Real Full SE shapes these days? The 8.25 is absolutely perfect for me shape and dimension wise, but I can't find one anywhere. Are these shapes just something DLX releases every so often or what?

[close]

^ May heart goes out to you, as this is the exact issue I was talking about last week on here. It sucks when (a) you find something perfect, and (b) mfg produces so many variations, that it's impossible to obtain regular and consistent availability of said product.

DLX makes too much stuff for their/our own good.

This is why I've weened myself off twins (and the full SE 8.25, Bakers B2, etc.); I'd rather just skate the 'regular' board and know I can get one, anywhere (i.e., a Blue Eagle) instead of hoping they're be in a drop and have to stockpile; Brands like Quasi or Polar (btw FU Polar for ditching the short 8.25...I've not touched one of your brand since), regular Baker/DW (Whish I liked their 8.25 but they dropped it down  to 31.5), Toy Machine, etc., are consistent enough with their shapes and availability.

True Fits are their hot shit right now as everyone seems to want shorter boards/WBs (can't argue with that, not sure many people are scrambling to get their hands on the GIGANSTAUR 8.3 FULL SE you know? There is an 8.5 FSE in the current drop FWIW).

Lots of BIG boards and the truefits, the Julien/Mason shape is almost every drop now thanks to Mason, very little in the middle.

I still can't fathom LOCK-IN FULLS out selling radial slims (if readily available). I just can't.

[Sedition]

…I hate the 8.25 shape…

The 8.25/14.38 is the apex of skateboard design. It is the best deck produced, ever.

[CarcassToss]

Long tail/kicks, at the base level, give you more room to sit on slides; a longer/mellower kick will also lessen your krook angles (so you are not so 'boned' in them); they also give the board the length needed for a wide stance/you are tall and riding a short WB, provided the deck has enough fingers of flat.

Take an NHS board, 31.8", 14.18WB, 1/to almost no fingers of flat, steep kicks that are average/short (6.5 tail) to me, that board is going to feel super cramped because the kicks ramp up so fast (fewer fingers) and due to how steep they are, my stance will be more closed by comparison.  Even with forged ventures pushing out both WBs, the NHS board, even with a slightly longer WB will feel tighter/more cramped.

Basically, with primitives or this REAL, I get the feeling of a longer WB board but still get the tight flippity feel of the small WB.

It also rings true (in my experience) to what the Proff had to say: steeper/fewer fingers = more power, more fingers/mellower, more finesse.

Given how I skate (fast, big pop, no style), I should be on longer WB/steep boards w/fewer fingers of flat to maximize my pop. That's the only thing I can feel different with this real (or Primitive) boards vs say a DSM board, are my 'straight over shit' flat ground (over boxes, dead bodies or hydrants, etc.) ollies, on a mellower board I have to try harder for height vs just explosive pop and up!

So in summary do you prefer the Easy Rider or not? Also how tall?

[CarcassToss]

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…I hate the 8.25 shape…

[close]

The 8.25/14.38 is the apex of skateboard design. It is the best deck produced, ever.

I'm curious- how many team riders ride this shape? On Real it seems Mason rides his own shape, Ishod has the twins, Praman is on 8.5 shape, Kyle Walker rocks the 8.38, and Zion the 8.5. No idea about anyone else. On Krooked Eddie, Simon, and Gottwig all seem to consistently rock 8.38s or twin tails, Bobby obviously loves the twin, Cromer has his 8.06 and custom shape, Manderson his own shape, and Ronnie has his own as well.

[smg1138]

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What's the deal with the Real Full SE shapes these days? The 8.25 is absolutely perfect for me shape and dimension wise, but I can't find one anywhere. Are these shapes just something DLX releases every so often or what?

[close]

^ May heart goes out to you, as this is the exact issue I was talking about last week on here. It sucks when (a) you find something perfect, and (b) mfg produces so many variations, that it's impossible to obtain regular and consistent availability of said product.

DLX makes too much stuff for their/our own good.

[close]

This is why I've weened myself off twins (and the full SE 8.25, Bakers B2, etc.); I'd rather just skate the 'regular' board and know I can get one, anywhere (i.e., a Blue Eagle) instead of hoping they're be in a drop and have to stockpile; Brands like Quasi or Polar (btw FU Polar for ditching the short 8.25...I've not touched one of your brand since), regular Baker/DW (Whish I liked their 8.25 but they dropped it down  to 31.5), Toy Machine, etc., are consistent enough with their shapes and availability.

True Fits are their hot shit right now as everyone seems to want shorter boards/WBs (can't argue with that, not sure many people are scrambling to get their hands on the GIGANSTAUR 8.3 FULL SE you know? There is an 8.5 FSE in the current drop FWIW).

Lots of BIG boards and the truefits, the Julien/Mason shape is almost every drop now thanks to Mason, very little in the middle.

I still can't fathom LOCK-IN FULLS out selling radial slims (if readily available). I just can't.

Yeah I can totally understand that. It sucks getting used to something and then not being able to find it again. My recent madness has been trying to find the perfect 8.25 that's actually in regular production. But most of them I've looked at either have a shape I hate or the dimensions are totally wrong. I swear if Girl just made an 8.25 with a longer wheelbase I'd probably be set because I've historically liked their shapes. Ah well, I'm sure I'll find the right one eventually. Until then my April 8.5 will get me through, even if it is a total bitch to flip some days.

[Ok]

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…I hate the 8.25 shape…

[close]

The 8.25/14.38 is the apex of skateboard design. It is the best deck produced, ever.

[close]

I'm curious- how many team riders ride this shape? On Real it seems Mason rides his own shape, Ishod has the twins, Praman is on 8.5 shape, Kyle Walker rocks the 8.38, and Zion the 8.5. No idea about anyone else. On Krooked Eddie, Simon, and Gottwig all seem to consistently rock 8.38s or twin tails, Bobby obviously loves the twin, Cromer has his 8.06 and custom shape, Manderson his own shape, and Ronnie has his own as well.

seems like you have some good intel: simon and gottwig are very good.
i thought gottwig was in the 8.25, but that was a guess, coupled with his pro graphic being on that shape, last i saw.

you make good points above…..buuuuuuuut

the 8.5 blue eagle, the 8.38 olive eagle….those are proven quantities. they are excellent. i’m hyped to setup the 8.38 olive eagle next. i just haven’t figured out if im going venture, or thunder, and which size truck….
i should probably be skating the 8.06, but i haven’t run across a flat one, but that shape, a ‘bigger’ 8, seems to be something that would work well for those of us that have been around for too long. i don’t hear too many extol the magical properties of that one, maybe someone will chime in

[CarcassToss]

I actually got that really popular Girl 8.25 and drilled the tail out. Its listed as 6.8 on their site and drilling it in took it to 6.6". Skated awesome- they need to simply move the bolts on the tail out a bit OR the bolts on both kicks slightly and it would be the perfect 8.25.

[Xen]

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Long tail/kicks, at the base level, give you more room to sit on slides; a longer/mellower kick will also lessen your krook angles (so you are not so 'boned' in them); they also give the board the length needed for a wide stance/you are tall and riding a short WB, provided the deck has enough fingers of flat.

Take an NHS board, 31.8", 14.18WB, 1/to almost no fingers of flat, steep kicks that are average/short (6.5 tail) to me, that board is going to feel super cramped because the kicks ramp up so fast (fewer fingers) and due to how steep they are, my stance will be more closed by comparison.  Even with forged ventures pushing out both WBs, the NHS board, even with a slightly longer WB will feel tighter/more cramped.

Basically, with primitives or this REAL, I get the feeling of a longer WB board but still get the tight flippity feel of the small WB.

It also rings true (in my experience) to what the Proff had to say: steeper/fewer fingers = more power, more fingers/mellower, more finesse.

Given how I skate (fast, big pop, no style), I should be on longer WB/steep boards w/fewer fingers of flat to maximize my pop. That's the only thing I can feel different with this real (or Primitive) boards vs say a DSM board, are my 'straight over shit' flat ground (over boxes, dead bodies or hydrants, etc.) ollies, on a mellower board I have to try harder for height vs just explosive pop and up!

[close]

So in summary do you prefer the Easy Rider or not? Also how tall?

Prefer it over what? Other Real Decks? Other Real Decks that are I/II/III/IV? Other brands that use BBS? PStix? What's it matter you skate differently than I do I'd wager. If I prefer it, that won't mean you do.

That said, it is safe to say I prefer the easy 8.25 FULL SE shape vs the regular FULL SE because of the fingers of flat and longer tail; you either like long tails for your won reasons or you don't

[Ok]

I actually got that really popular Girl 8.25 and drilled the tail out. Its listed as 6.8 on their site and drilling it in took it to 6.6". Skated awesome- they need to simply move the bolts on the tail out a bit OR the bolts on both kicks slightly and it would be the perfect 8.25.

i asked you a question in a different thread, but the shape you are referencing, is the ‘one’ conical full shape i could flip: ace classic 44s and 56 fulls.
i should try that board again.

[CarcassToss]

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Long tail/kicks, at the base level, give you more room to sit on slides; a longer/mellower kick will also lessen your krook angles (so you are not so 'boned' in them); they also give the board the length needed for a wide stance/you are tall and riding a short WB, provided the deck has enough fingers of flat.

Take an NHS board, 31.8", 14.18WB, 1/to almost no fingers of flat, steep kicks that are average/short (6.5 tail) to me, that board is going to feel super cramped because the kicks ramp up so fast (fewer fingers) and due to how steep they are, my stance will be more closed by comparison.  Even with forged ventures pushing out both WBs, the NHS board, even with a slightly longer WB will feel tighter/more cramped.

Basically, with primitives or this REAL, I get the feeling of a longer WB board but still get the tight flippity feel of the small WB.

It also rings true (in my experience) to what the Proff had to say: steeper/fewer fingers = more power, more fingers/mellower, more finesse.

Given how I skate (fast, big pop, no style), I should be on longer WB/steep boards w/fewer fingers of flat to maximize my pop. That's the only thing I can feel different with this real (or Primitive) boards vs say a DSM board, are my 'straight over shit' flat ground (over boxes, dead bodies or hydrants, etc.) ollies, on a mellower board I have to try harder for height vs just explosive pop and up!

[close]

So in summary do you prefer the Easy Rider or not? Also how tall?

[close]

Prefer it over what? Other Real Decks? Other Real Decks that are I/II/III/IV? Other brands that use BBS? PStix? What's it matter you skate differently than I do I'd wager. If I prefer it, that won't mean you do.

That said, it is safe to say I prefer the easy 8.25 FULL SE shape vs the regular FULL SE because of the fingers of flat and longer tail; you either like long tails for your won reasons or you don't

I'd say overall compared to other flatter shapes. I have 2 setups- a bigger one for transition and "curb sessions", and then a standard deck I'd skate more ledges, manual pads, street stuff, etc. I'm a bit weary of the short wheelbase on the 8.25 Easy Rider and in the past hated how cramped the 8.5 Eagle felt, so I'm intrigued by your description and review. I've got a decent backlog of decks so I don't necessarily want to buy something else without having a bit more insight and comparison.

I've not ridden a PS since 2018 and don't remember much negative other than the nose steepness. I don't have a ton of comparison other than preferring flatter DLX and BBS offerings and mellower kicks. I do enjoy some of the more generic BBS 8.25 and 8.38 shapes because of the flat after the bolts so this might be cool.

[Mbrimson88]

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…I hate the 8.25 shape…

[close]

The 8.25/14.38 is the apex of skateboard design. It is the best deck produced, ever.

[close]

I'm curious- how many team riders ride this shape? On Real it seems Mason rides his own shape, Ishod has the twins, Praman is on 8.5 shape, Kyle Walker rocks the 8.38, and Zion the 8.5. No idea about anyone else. On Krooked Eddie, Simon, and Gottwig all seem to consistently rock 8.38s or twin tails, Bobby obviously loves the twin, Cromer has his 8.06 and custom shape, Manderson his own shape, and Ronnie has his own as well.

Once the 8.25 regular shape was said to be the number one shape for most of the DLX team riders, or at least the most ridden of all the shapes, but that is going back a while.

As you said, now it seems a lot more varied, even people who were on the 8.25 are now more often on 8.38 and similar boards, then others on the smaller or shorter boards, especially with the new team riders being smaller humans than others, then the twin shapes, etc.


Maybe it is just skateboarding trends or evolution, people start to ride bigger boards, or smaller boards, or wider or shorter or whatever it is as the pro roster changes, or general population of skaters change too.  Any which way, things will still keep changing, but that is not to say that there will not be the standard shapes still around, even if the more varied options mean that they don't get released every drop too, such as the 8.25 Full SE board.

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What's the deal with the Real Full SE shapes these days? The 8.25 is absolutely perfect for me shape and dimension wise, but I can't find one anywhere. Are these shapes just something DLX releases every so often or what?

[close]

^ May heart goes out to you, as this is the exact issue I was talking about last week on here. It sucks when (a) you find something perfect, and (b) mfg produces so many variations, that it's impossible to obtain regular and consistent availability of said product.

DLX makes too much stuff for their/our own good.

[close]

This is why I've weened myself off twins (and the full SE 8.25, Bakers B2, etc.); I'd rather just skate the 'regular' board and know I can get one, anywhere (i.e., a Blue Eagle) instead of hoping they're be in a drop and have to stockpile; Brands like Quasi or Polar (btw FU Polar for ditching the short 8.25...I've not touched one of your brand since), regular Baker/DW (Whish I liked their 8.25 but they dropped it down  to 31.5), Toy Machine, etc., are consistent enough with their shapes and availability.

True Fits are their hot shit right now as everyone seems to want shorter boards/WBs (can't argue with that, not sure many people are scrambling to get their hands on the GIGANSTAUR 8.3 FULL SE you know? There is an 8.5 FSE in the current drop FWIW).

Lots of BIG boards and the truefits, the Julien/Mason shape is almost every drop now thanks to Mason, very little in the middle.

I still can't fathom LOCK-IN FULLS out selling radial slims (if readily available). I just can't.

[close]

Yeah I can totally understand that. It sucks getting used to something and then not being able to find it again. My recent madness has been trying to find the perfect 8.25 that's actually in regular production. But most of them I've looked at either have a shape I hate or the dimensions are totally wrong. I swear if Girl just made an 8.25 with a longer wheelbase I'd probably be set because I've historically liked their shapes. Ah well, I'm sure I'll find the right one eventually. Until then my April 8.5 will get me through, even if it is a total bitch to flip some days.

The last 8.25 Full SE board was from the Summer 2023 drop, the Mason Abstractions deck.

https://www.realskateboards.com/summer-2023/


Before that in the Spring 2023 drop, there were the Nicole Cathedral series, which always sell out to collectors and the Jack Olsen Jackupuncture which I never saw any of anywhere.

https://www.realskateboards.com/spring-2023/


Nothing in the three or so drops since then, from what I could see, so unless you could track down some of those boards, I guess it is time to try to find something else.

Even the 8.38 Full SE seems to be around a bit more, if you were riding an 8.5 at the moment, but I know it is not the same thing anyway.

The Krooked Manderson has a shorter 14.25 wb and has fairly full kicks too, 8.38 x 32 just to throw another option in there.

[art hellman]

The Krooked Manderson has a shorter 14.25 wb and has fairly full kicks too, 8.38 x 32 just to throw another option in there.

this is a great shape/deck for anyone who drifts between 8.25 - 8.5 like I do, and it's been pretty consistently available

[Ok]

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The Krooked Manderson has a shorter 14.25 wb and has fairly full kicks too, 8.38 x 32 just to throw another option in there.

[close]

this is a great shape/deck for anyone who drifts between 8.25 - 8.5 like I do, and it's been pretty consistently available

i’m on a generic generator 8.38, 14.5, 32+, and it’s been nice (madness hasn’t stopped me from trying both 6.1s and 5.6s on it….strangely the 6.1s were better for kickflips). its a bit too long, i should try the dreamer.

[smg1138]

I actually got that really popular Girl 8.25 and drilled the tail out. Its listed as 6.8 on their site and drilling it in took it to 6.6". Skated awesome- they need to simply move the bolts on the tail out a bit OR the bolts on both kicks slightly and it would be the perfect 8.25.

That's actually something I had thought about. I recently got the new Sean Malto G089 shape which I really like except the tail is too long and the wheelbase is only 14". If I could redrill the holes to make the tail 1/4" shorter I think it'd be perfect. But wouldn't 1/4" be too close to the existing factory drilled holes? I've never redrilled a board before so I'm not sure. Is there a minimum distance you have to drill to maintain structural integrity?

[FatGuy92]

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I actually got that really popular Girl 8.25 and drilled the tail out. Its listed as 6.8 on their site and drilling it in took it to 6.6". Skated awesome- they need to simply move the bolts on the tail out a bit OR the bolts on both kicks slightly and it would be the perfect 8.25.

[close]

That's actually something I had thought about. I recently got the new Sean Malto G089 shape which I really like except the tail is too long and the wheelbase is only 14". If I could redrill the holes to make the tail 1/4" shorter I think it'd be perfect. But wouldn't 1/4" be too close to the existing factory drilled holes? I've never redrilled a board before so I'm not sure. Is there a minimum distance you have to drill to maintain structural integrity?

I've seen quite a few people use the 1/4" chems tool to redrill their WB and haven't heard any issues re: structural integrity, but Idk how hard they're skating. I don't imagine there being any issues unless you're hucking all the time.

[CarcassToss]

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The Krooked Manderson has a shorter 14.25 wb and has fairly full kicks too, 8.38 x 32 just to throw another option in there.

[close]

this is a great shape/deck for anyone who drifts between 8.25 - 8.5 like I do, and it's been pretty consistently available

[close]

i’m on a generic generator 8.38, 14.5, 32+, and it’s been nice (madness hasn’t stopped me from trying both 6.1s and 5.6s on it….strangely the 6.1s were better for kickflips). its a bit too long, i should try the dreamer.

generic BBS 8.38 is 32 and 14.38. The dreamer is longer and 14.5

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

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The Krooked Manderson has a shorter 14.25 wb and has fairly full kicks too, 8.38 x 32 just to throw another option in there.

[close]

this is a great shape/deck for anyone who drifts between 8.25 - 8.5 like I do, and it's been pretty consistently available

[close]

i’m on a generic generator 8.38, 14.5, 32+, and it’s been nice (madness hasn’t stopped me from trying both 6.1s and 5.6s on it….strangely the 6.1s were better for kickflips). its a bit too long, i should try the dreamer.

[close]

generic BBS 8.38 is 32 and 14.38. The dreamer is longer and 14.5

My observations with both DLX 8.38 and Generator 8.38 having had a lot of both come through my hands, the Generator decks as shop boards for a few local shops, as well as the shape being used by Passport and a couple of other brands.

Yes, as said wheelbase is shorter on Generator, so a little longer kicks, especially tail is more noticeably longer than DLX, then overall the width is not as wide on the Generator board, compared to the DLX board.  We are talking only mm so not a crazy huge difference, but people notice it.

Both have come in quite mellow, almost flat at times, but others significantly steeper, but not as steep as some of the other boards - big difference between Generator 8.38 and 8.5 in concave and angle of kicks, which was weird.

I feel like the Generator deck is not quite as pointy as the DLX deck too, but there is very little in it.


On paper the dimensions are listed as this:


Generator (from their catalog, in the Woodshop thread)

8.375 x 32.125 with 14.375 wb, 7" nose and 6.58" tail

DLX
8.38 (almost 8.5) x 32.25 with 14.5 wb, 7" nose and 6.5" tail


Overall if you want more tail and a little less width, go with the Generator deck, but if you like more wheelbase and a little more width, go with the DLX board.

[DanRar009]

Does anyone ride the 8.38 green eagle/white real oval board with standard team thunders ? I wanna snag one of the two but didn’t know if it would feel wonky with thunders. I have an old set of standard Indy’s I’ve used on longer sized boards but honestly can’t stand riding Indys

[CarcassToss]

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I actually got that really popular Girl 8.25 and drilled the tail out. Its listed as 6.8 on their site and drilling it in took it to 6.6". Skated awesome- they need to simply move the bolts on the tail out a bit OR the bolts on both kicks slightly and it would be the perfect 8.25.

[close]

That's actually something I had thought about. I recently got the new Sean Malto G089 shape which I really like except the tail is too long and the wheelbase is only 14". If I could redrill the holes to make the tail 1/4" shorter I think it'd be perfect. But wouldn't 1/4" be too close to the existing factory drilled holes? I've never redrilled a board before so I'm not sure. Is there a minimum distance you have to drill to maintain structural integrity?

[close]

I've seen quite a few people use the 1/4" chems tool to redrill their WB and haven't heard any issues re: structural integrity, but Idk how hard they're skating. I don't imagine there being any issues unless you're hucking all the time.

I don't really break boards so I had no problems. If the holes aren't spaced too close I'm not sure it's an issue really. G052 was the shape- skated great once I red redrilled the tail.

[CarcassToss]

Does anyone ride the 8.38 green eagle/white real oval board with standard team thunders ? I wanna snag one of the two but didn’t know if it would feel wonky with thunders. I have an old set of standard Indy’s I’ve used on longer sized boards but honestly can’t stand riding Indys

My friend has had this exact setup for 5 years. 149 or 159, 52-52 classics, and he fucking rips for an old guy. Mini ramp god and can get pretty tech with it. I've ridden his boards and the 159 are too much for me, but it felt less long than I thought.