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i heard its a pain in the ass to do that with thunder forged baseplates and i dont really sorry about kingpin clearance atm so id have to pass on trying it personally.
functionality looks sick though, love to see broken in thunders
I think the reason it's tougher for forged baseplates is cuz they're thinner. There isn't enough room in the void underneath the kingpin to completely fit the nut. Just need to grind the nut shorter. While keeping it square..
This threaded insert method eliminates that issue but to me it'd be more work overall. Drilling, tapping..
Stets. Did you use a helicoil or a timesert?
Did it look like a slinky or a solid tube with threads?
Rivet nut might be another option..
TBH I'd wanna do this with a jig to hold the kingpin angle.
How do you know it's straight left to right?
Or at the same 75* as the old kingpin?
There's also no nyloc with threaded BP. Could use a drop of liquid threadlock if it gets loose.
I used one of these types of inserts:
https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts/threaded-inserts-for-metal/It's a lot of work, but has paid off considering how long I have skated these. My homie showed me that the shoulder of the baseplate, where the bottom washer sits, is flat and square to the kingpin hole, so we set it upside down on that and that kept the hole squared and true as we drilled it bigger in 3 steps, to reduce any chance of it drifting. Then thread with the outer course thread tap.
Yep, use blue threadlock on the kingpin. The threaded insert also had that threadlock red permanent stuff on it, so I added a little bit more too as I installed those. Also pinged the ends in the area with no internal thread to mechanically keep it in place a bit better.