Which Bearings Are You Guys Running?

[Acid Drop]

I just want to make it clear that I only paid $60 for the Bones Ceramic Super Reds that I own. I don't think I would ever pay full retail for them.

[OhioGuy]

I'm running some Bronson G3s. They're super smooth and silent, but I kinda want to swap them out for my reds. Anyone else like noisy bearings? 🥴

[toe_knee]

Just set up the skf on another setup after a quick clean, still running good with the shields on, still really smooth, they would be the thing I would say with these guys. They are prolly the smoothest bearings I’ve ever had, the spin more freely now that they have been broken in, but not anymore than any other bearing I’ve skated, they have metal shields on the inside so I’m gonna keep running them until they die

[Tom Pearl]

i run nothing but bones swiss, i had a pair that was like 10 years old that was still perfectly fine but i decided to swich them out for some new ones. i still have another set on ice that i got for like $25 from that crazy ass kcdc sale a year ago

[blahblah999]

I have a few different sets of bearings here. Jury is still out on some of them. Weather still nasty here so it will be awhile before I can actually ride them.

-Some cheap Chinese bearings from a wheel company that cost $5 on clearance. Spin slow and even look cheap. Best thing was the package they came in.

-RockNRons - unfortunately can't get these anymore. Ron is not great at order fulfillment TBH so if he ever starts doing the bearings again he should just sell them through a big online shop like SoCal or something.

-Bones Swiss Super 6 - expensive. No opinion yet. Mounted them today in some new Autobahn dual duros for use when the weather clears. I used steel spacers rather than the aluminum ones that come with the bearings.

-Bones Super Reds - cheaper, but supposed to be decent for a Chinese bearing. Haven't opened them yet.

-GMN bearings - yep, just like the ones from BITD. They have thick grease in them and take a long time to break in. Will run a bit slow at first.

-Pig Swiss bearings - not made anymore. At the time they were like $10 cheaper than Bones and seemed alright. Might try them again after cleaning and some new shields. If you want Swiss bearings, it's probably a better idea to just buy Bones than another brand. Some bearings marked "Swiss" are not real Swiss bearings. Watch out for Bones Swiss counterfeits as well.

[Easy Slider]

I have a few sets running currently as well:

- Quantum Fusions on the regular/street set up: These are great bearings, smooth and fast, nothing to complain. They have yet to prove their worth when I will put them on the rain set up tho.

- Bones Swiss Six Balls: Have them on two set ups and once they are well broken in they are really fast and feel great. Recommended, in particular if you can get them at a sale as I did (copped two sets for CHF/USD 60 each).

- Bronson G2: They are my oldest bearing and I use them on the rain set up. I wanted to change them for the Quantums but as I have glued one nut to the axle with locktite I thought I'd only do it once they clog up. Surprisingly that hasn't happened yet even if I have used them in heavy rain riding through puddles etc. But I feel they are slowing down.

[davy]

Expand Quote

Bought some Bronson G3's out of curiosity and haven't gone back to reds in a long time. I'd like to try some Bones Swiss one day.

[close]

I've been riding a pair of G3s for about 5 years and they're still going strong. I did infact just buy my first ever set of swiss yesterday and I'm really excited to see how much better they are.

Hell yea man enjoy them. Those are the next set of bearings I’m going to get. Still got plenty of life left in the G3s. I’ve cleaned this set once so far, but that has me wondering how many people take the time to clean their bearings after skating for a while? Most of my friends never clean their bearings, they just skate them until they’re dead.

[Xen]

Running a few sets in rotation:

Bronson Ceramics (these were free) - currently in my main setup, they're so fast and loud (with outer shields only)

Bronson G3s (From launch) - still going strong, no shields

Swiss 6 - bone dry - I don't know how old these are, 5+ years easy. Set them up in some bones X97s, they really help with the sound characteristics of the wheels (making them seem less soft somehow). I do want to put some lube in them as they squeak but don't want to lose that ssssssssssssssssssound.

Retired:
Bones Big LAME ASS Balls - I recently cleaned then (full cage removal and everything), AGAIN as they are always so slow. Bone dry they were fine for a few minutes then just seized up with no free spin (in hand mind, not on a board); put is some spead cream and they're still just fucked. Worst purchase ever.

[Ok]

Running a few sets in rotation:

Bronson Ceramics (these were free) - currently in my main setup, they're so fast and loud (with outer shields only)

Bronson G3s (From launch) - still going strong, no shields

Swiss 6 - bone dry - I don't know how old these are, 5+ years easy. Set them up in some bones X97s, they really help with the sound characteristics of the wheels (making them seem less soft somehow). I do want to put some lube in them as they squeak but don't want to lose that ssssssssssssssssssound.

Retired:
Bones Big LAME ASS Balls - I recently cleaned then (full cage removal and everything), AGAIN as they are always so slow. Bone dry they were fine for a few minutes then just seized up with no free spin (in hand mind, not on a board); put is some spead cream and they're still just fucked. Worst purchase ever.

I’m back n forth on ordering more skate stuff. But if I do…probably a Gass board (love the shape, tail is too short for you tho), some 52 x97s, and Swiss 6.
My last set of Swiss have been kinda meh, but my old 6s were the best bearing I’ve had.
I got the quantum atoms and just spinning the wheel, they were smoking (fast). After a short time, and under actual load, they have slowed, dramatically. Haven’t cleaned em. But they don’t get a lot of run, flatground in some 51s. If they cannot out live a deck (ps at that) then…dunno.
Anyways, you recommending the setup I was thinking about, has doomed me. You fucker.
Now if you could give me a grip recommendation I’ll just go ahead and place this order. I’ve always been a jessup, but with a large stable of setups, boards last a long time. I even re-gripped the last Gass board I had, which is kinda prime kook feeling behavior, and somehow managed to fuck it up, badly. I was skating dunks, and was having a hard time getting the next pair, so I figured I’d just do a quick sand job on the mob. I did a VERY light couple of scrapes and now this board is so slick it’s dumb. A shame cuz there is a some life left (the crail wood is maybe less ‘magical’/really lasts tho, in my experience).

[OhioGuy]

Since I’m a one setup guy now I’m tempted to get some expensive ass bearings. But my gut says I should just use the five pairs I already have (Mix of G3s and Reds). They’re from my retired setups.

[Quantum_Bearing_Science]

I got the quantum atoms and just spinning the wheel, they were smoking (fast). After a short time, and under actual load, they have slowed, dramatically. Haven’t cleaned em. But they don’t get a lot of run, flatground in some 51s. If they cannot out live a deck (ps at that) then…dunno.

Yeah, definitely would be curious what factors led to your issue.  There’s a million to choose from.  I’d definitely give them a cleaning before giving up on them.

Obviously, we wouldn’t still be in business if we put out a bearing that couldn’t outlive one deck.

They’re built to last.

[Ok]

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I got the quantum atoms and just spinning the wheel, they were smoking (fast). After a short time, and under actual load, they have slowed, dramatically. Haven’t cleaned em. But they don’t get a lot of run, flatground in some 51s. If they cannot out live a deck (ps at that) then…dunno.

[close]

Yeah, definitely would be curious what factors led to your issue.  There’s a million to choose from.  I’d definitely give them a cleaning before giving up on them.

Obviously, we wouldn’t still be in business if we put out a bearing that couldn’t outlive one deck.

They’re built to last.

I’ll let you know. I wasn’t super pissed, just didn’t have the same glowing review others have had. TBC, the bearings will outlive the board, and more, they just aren’t real fast. Yet. Maybe.
Im not big on cleaning bearings, it’s one of the many things I need to go get schooled on by uncle flea

[Quantum_Bearing_Science]

I gotcha.  I was never much on cleaning bearings either.  Never popped shields or any of that though.  The good thing is, at the minimum, you can spray high grade isopropyl alcohol, into our bearings, and spin it out.  Then hit it with a couple of drops of lube or whatever.

And they do take a few hard sessions to completely break in.

They’re the same “astounding” bearings that the other posters here have.  The only differences are in the user.

[j....soy.....]

I think luck may play a roll as well…..

[Quantum_Bearing_Science]

Right.  I could’ve elaborated more.  That’s what I meant by the millions of factors.  All different from user to user.

[Ok]

I gotcha.  I was never much on cleaning bearings either.  Never popped shields or any of that though.  The good thing is, at the minimum, you can spray high grade isopropyl alcohol, into our bearings, and spin it out.  Then hit it with a couple of drops of lube or whatever.

And they do take a few hard sessions to completely break in.

They’re the same “astounding” bearings that the other posters here have.  The only differences are in the user.

Oh the old ‘operator error’, eh?


Jk. Probably is operator error in some way: that setup is 5.2 lo’s, board slightly smaller than 8”, and what were brand new 51mm f4 classics (99 I think, I’m one of the few that also likes 101, in the streets). Anyway, the board gets a lot of brick’d flip attempts. Like a lot. My initial takeaway, just spinning the new bearings, in the new wheels, on the new axles, was that they were fast as fuck. Which I don’t really need. Because I’m going slow as hell, trying to slow the passage of time, and the aging of my body, mind, legs, spine. But they seemed very fast.
And now, are not.
I’ve got the bones bearing cleaning kit, and lots of different high octane cleaner. Maybe I’ll get buck. Maybe I’ll just whinge.

[my bad cuh]

i think im running andale butters (buttas???) right now and honestly i have zero complaints
i only bought them because they were really cheap and needed new bearings (g3s absolutely destroyed by sand, 6 year old indy bearings that i really didnt want to take out) but they're suprisingly really really good, haven't even cleaned them yet

[Xen]

Expand Quote

Running a few sets in rotation:

Bronson Ceramics (these were free) - currently in my main setup, they're so fast and loud (with outer shields only)

Bronson G3s (From launch) - still going strong, no shields

Swiss 6 - bone dry - I don't know how old these are, 5+ years easy. Set them up in some bones X97s, they really help with the sound characteristics of the wheels (making them seem less soft somehow). I do want to put some lube in them as they squeak but don't want to lose that ssssssssssssssssssound.

Retired:
Bones Big LAME ASS Balls - I recently cleaned then (full cage removal and everything), AGAIN as they are always so slow. Bone dry they were fine for a few minutes then just seized up with no free spin (in hand mind, not on a board); put is some spead cream and they're still just fucked. Worst purchase ever.

[close]

I’m back n forth on ordering more skate stuff. But if I do…probably a Gass board (love the shape, tail is too short for you tho), some 52 x97s, and Swiss 6.
My last set of Swiss have been kinda meh, but my old 6s were the best bearing I’ve had.
I got the quantum atoms and just spinning the wheel, they were smoking (fast). After a short time, and under actual load, they have slowed, dramatically. Haven’t cleaned em. But they don’t get a lot of run, flatground in some 51s. If they cannot out live a deck (ps at that) then…dunno.
Anyways, you recommending the setup I was thinking about, has doomed me. You fucker.
Now if you could give me a grip recommendation I’ll just go ahead and place this order. I’ve always been a jessup, but with a large stable of setups, boards last a long time. I even re-gripped the last Gass board I had, which is kinda prime kook feeling behavior, and somehow managed to fuck it up, badly. I was skating dunks, and was having a hard time getting the next pair, so I figured I’d just do a quick sand job on the mob. I did a VERY light couple of scrapes and now this board is so slick it’s dumb. A shame cuz there is a some life left (the crail wood is maybe less ‘magical’/really lasts tho, in my experience).

@ok Pepper grip. My go to now. Dig the Galaxy version cuz sparkles. It's somewhere between Mob and Jessup...has perforations; the grit is a 'sharp' grit at first.

Since I’m a one setup guy now I’m tempted to get some expensive ass bearings. But my gut says I should just use the five pairs I already have (Mix of G3s and Reds). They’re from my retired setups.

If they work? Ride'm until they die unless you are having some weird brand mix n match ocd going on, then you should fix that shit asap.

G3s get tons of hate, but they're just as good as any bearing in that pricerange (if not better than say the 'ABEC 7s' from EVERY company out there. At the $25 price point, Black Panther Bearings ABEC 7s would be the only thing I'd pick over them.

Forgot to mention I do have a set of Race Redz I use once in a while (I keep some wheels in my OCD rotation and leave the bearings it. They're fast and loud (shields on) but they ARE heavier...the built in washers are much thicker and chunkier than those cheap ass (but light) ones that come stock. They're on my 'cruiser' now with Powell Dragons - given how soft the wheels were I thought it best to crank down the wheels for no play and these help with that.

all that shit aside...ML bearings at $10 are damn hard to beat.

[Ok]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Running a few sets in rotation:

Bronson Ceramics (these were free) - currently in my main setup, they're so fast and loud (with outer shields only)

Bronson G3s (From launch) - still going strong, no shields

Swiss 6 - bone dry - I don't know how old these are, 5+ years easy. Set them up in some bones X97s, they really help with the sound characteristics of the wheels (making them seem less soft somehow). I do want to put some lube in them as they squeak but don't want to lose that ssssssssssssssssssound.

Retired:
Bones Big LAME ASS Balls - I recently cleaned then (full cage removal and everything), AGAIN as they are always so slow. Bone dry they were fine for a few minutes then just seized up with no free spin (in hand mind, not on a board); put is some spead cream and they're still just fucked. Worst purchase ever.

[close]

I’m back n forth on ordering more skate stuff. But if I do…probably a Gass board (love the shape, tail is too short for you tho), some 52 x97s, and Swiss 6.
My last set of Swiss have been kinda meh, but my old 6s were the best bearing I’ve had.
I got the quantum atoms and just spinning the wheel, they were smoking (fast). After a short time, and under actual load, they have slowed, dramatically. Haven’t cleaned em. But they don’t get a lot of run, flatground in some 51s. If they cannot out live a deck (ps at that) then…dunno.
Anyways, you recommending the setup I was thinking about, has doomed me. You fucker.
Now if you could give me a grip recommendation I’ll just go ahead and place this order. I’ve always been a jessup, but with a large stable of setups, boards last a long time. I even re-gripped the last Gass board I had, which is kinda prime kook feeling behavior, and somehow managed to fuck it up, badly. I was skating dunks, and was having a hard time getting the next pair, so I figured I’d just do a quick sand job on the mob. I did a VERY light couple of scrapes and now this board is so slick it’s dumb. A shame cuz there is a some life left (the crail wood is maybe less ‘magical’/really lasts tho, in my experience).

[close]

@ok Pepper grip. My go to now. Dig the Galaxy version cuz sparkles. It's somewhere between Mob and Jessup...has perforations; the grit is a 'sharp' grit at first.

Expand Quote

Since I’m a one setup guy now I’m tempted to get some expensive ass bearings. But my gut says I should just use the five pairs I already have (Mix of G3s and Reds). They’re from my retired setups.

[close]

If they work? Ride'm until they die unless you are having some weird brand mix n match ocd going on, then you should fix that shit asap.

G3s get tons of hate, but they're just as good as any bearing in that pricerange (if not better than say the 'ABEC 7s' from EVERY company out there. At the $25 price point, Black Panther Bearings ABEC 7s would be the only thing I'd pick over them.

Forgot to mention I do have a set of Race Redz I use once in a while (I keep some wheels in my OCD rotation and leave the bearings it. They're fast and loud (shields on) but they ARE heavier...the built in washers are much thicker and chunkier than those cheap ass (but light) ones that come stock. They're on my 'cruiser' now with Powell Dragons - given how soft the wheels were I thought it best to crank down the wheels for no play and these help with that.

all that shit aside...ML bearings at $10 are damn hard to beat.

I’ll got the pepper a shot, sounds like what I’m looking for.
ML are my ‘not special’/quiver bearing, and they are totally worth it.

[commander jameson]

Retired:
Bones Big LAME ASS Balls - I recently cleaned then (full cage removal and everything), AGAIN as they are always so slow. Bone dry they were fine for a few minutes then just seized up with no free spin (in hand mind, not on a board); put is some spead cream and they're still just fucked. Worst purchase ever.

This once happened to me with years old Swiss Ceramics, cleaned and relubed them and two bearings didn't spin freely.
They were still spinning but not smoothly.
You could feel under your fingers that bearing balls were having some resistance spinning or kind of getting stuck. Took them apart again and checked outer ring raceway, there were indentations on raceways, so called bearing brinelling. When that happens bearing is done(not smooth spinning anymore) unless you replace damaged raceways.
You can get this kind of damage even by putting bearings into the wheels, especially with brand new wheels when you need to apply lots of pressure to seat them properly.
Nowadays, I always use bearing press to install bearings into wheels.

[radcunt]

I got some random spitfire ones recently and i'm kinda regretting not shelling for Bones Swiss

[rocklobster]

As someone who used to swear by cheaper bearings (Reds was the most I'd spend), Quantum Metallics have yet to disappoint, definitely worth the $10 premium.

[bbk]

I just ordered a set of metallics and a set of isotopes. And a t-shirt.

[Whicker]

I moved my Swiss 6 to my wifes setup cause she was complaining about pushing too much. Currently using her G3s, they are SLOW even after cleaning + bones speed cream. I am really starting to miss my Swiss 6.

Trying to decide between another set of Swiss or Quantum Isotopes.

[Bill Salt]

Bronson Raws are the best to me

[blahblah999]

Took them apart again and checked outer ring raceway, there were indentations on raceways, so called bearing brinelling. When that happens bearing is done(not smooth spinning anymore) unless you replace damaged raceways.
You can get this kind of damage even by putting bearings into the wheels, especially with brand new wheels when you need to apply lots of pressure to seat them properly.
Nowadays, I always use bearing press to install bearings into wheels.

This is very true. I learned about that from RockNRon. It can happen to any bearing through use or operator error. No bearing lasts forever, no matter how cheap or expensive.

Another way to install a bearing is to use an outer ring from a broken bearing. Push the bearing into the wheel with fingers first, then take the outer ring with a block and rubber mallet and gently tap the bearing in.

With better wheels you can sometimes flip the wheel over and use the ring upside down on a table, then use pressure from the palm of your hand.

Of course it is very important to make sure the ring is aligned and only touching the outer surface of the bearing. Otherwise your shields will get dented and you can also damage the internal part of the bearing.

I would also recommend being careful with bearing presses and skate tools that have a bearing tool feature. I recently got one and the bearing tool on it is not made correctly. It should be made so that only the outer race of the bearing is being touched during mounting. Unfortunately it is undersized, which means it's pressing on the inner race of the bearing. Not good.

[jimgrude]

Expand Quote

Took them apart again and checked outer ring raceway, there were indentations on raceways, so called bearing brinelling. When that happens bearing is done(not smooth spinning anymore) unless you replace damaged raceways.
You can get this kind of damage even by putting bearings into the wheels, especially with brand new wheels when you need to apply lots of pressure to seat them properly.
Nowadays, I always use bearing press to install bearings into wheels.

[close]

This is very true. I learned about that from RockNRon. It can happen to any bearing through use or operator error. No bearing lasts forever, no matter how cheap or expensive.

Another way to install a bearing is to use an outer ring from a broken bearing. Push the bearing into the wheel with fingers first, then take the outer ring with a block and rubber mallet and gently tap the bearing in.

With better wheels you can sometimes flip the wheel over and use the ring upside down on a table, then use pressure from the palm of your hand.

Of course it is very important to make sure the ring is aligned and only touching the outer surface of the bearing. Otherwise your shields will get dented and you can also damage the internal part of the bearing.

I would also recommend being careful with bearing presses and skate tools that have a bearing tool feature. I recently got one and the bearing tool on it is not made correctly. It should be made so that only the outer race of the bearing is being touched during mounting. Unfortunately it is undersized, which means it's pressing on the inner race of the bearing. Not good.

Or you could just put an old, broken bearing on your axle before pressing your bearings on. Surprised this isn't the standard method.

[Xen]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Took them apart again and checked outer ring raceway, there were indentations on raceways, so called bearing brinelling. When that happens bearing is done(not smooth spinning anymore) unless you replace damaged raceways.
You can get this kind of damage even by putting bearings into the wheels, especially with brand new wheels when you need to apply lots of pressure to seat them properly.
Nowadays, I always use bearing press to install bearings into wheels.

[close]

This is very true. I learned about that from RockNRon. It can happen to any bearing through use or operator error. No bearing lasts forever, no matter how cheap or expensive.

Another way to install a bearing is to use an outer ring from a broken bearing. Push the bearing into the wheel with fingers first, then take the outer ring with a block and rubber mallet and gently tap the bearing in.

With better wheels you can sometimes flip the wheel over and use the ring upside down on a table, then use pressure from the palm of your hand.

Of course it is very important to make sure the ring is aligned and only touching the outer surface of the bearing. Otherwise your shields will get dented and you can also damage the internal part of the bearing.

I would also recommend being careful with bearing presses and skate tools that have a bearing tool feature. I recently got one and the bearing tool on it is not made correctly. It should be made so that only the outer race of the bearing is being touched during mounting. Unfortunately it is undersized, which means it's pressing on the inner race of the bearing. Not good.

[close]

Or you could just put an old, broken bearing on your axle before pressing your bearings on. Surprised this isn't the standard method.

I've a unit tool with a press part (mounting nut is broken off) I use for pressing in bearings if that isn't around I always use and old bearing.

Getting bearings out, if you switch wheels a lot will for sure fuck with your bearings if you pry them off. I nabbed the bones bearing puller (some combo deal wih the cleaning kit and speed cream ages ago) and tend to use that.

[Easy Slider]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Took them apart again and checked outer ring raceway, there were indentations on raceways, so called bearing brinelling. When that happens bearing is done(not smooth spinning anymore) unless you replace damaged raceways.
You can get this kind of damage even by putting bearings into the wheels, especially with brand new wheels when you need to apply lots of pressure to seat them properly.
Nowadays, I always use bearing press to install bearings into wheels.

[close]

This is very true. I learned about that from RockNRon. It can happen to any bearing through use or operator error. No bearing lasts forever, no matter how cheap or expensive.

Another way to install a bearing is to use an outer ring from a broken bearing. Push the bearing into the wheel with fingers first, then take the outer ring with a block and rubber mallet and gently tap the bearing in.

With better wheels you can sometimes flip the wheel over and use the ring upside down on a table, then use pressure from the palm of your hand.

Of course it is very important to make sure the ring is aligned and only touching the outer surface of the bearing. Otherwise your shields will get dented and you can also damage the internal part of the bearing.

I would also recommend being careful with bearing presses and skate tools that have a bearing tool feature. I recently got one and the bearing tool on it is not made correctly. It should be made so that only the outer race of the bearing is being touched during mounting. Unfortunately it is undersized, which means it's pressing on the inner race of the bearing. Not good.

[close]

Or you could just put an old, broken bearing on your axle before pressing your bearings on. Surprised this isn't the standard method.

[close]

I've a unit tool with a press part (mounting nut is broken off) I use for pressing in bearings if that isn't around I always use and old bearing.

Getting bearings out, if you switch wheels a lot will for sure fuck with your bearings if you pry them off. I nabbed the bones bearing puller (some combo deal wih the cleaning kit and speed cream ages ago) and tend to use that.

That‘s great advice, I never thought of that. Also that bearing puller sounds alluring got to cop it next time I pass an order, now that I rock ceramics I don‘t want to break them while switching them.

[blahblah999]

Or you could just put an old, broken bearing on your axle before pressing your bearings on. Surprised this isn't the standard method.

That might be slightly better than what most people do, but hardly ideal. There will still be significant pressure on the inner race if you do it that way. The way I described puts zero pressure on the inner race.