Wheels Thread

[rocklobster]

Happy to see Ricta getting some love on this thread. I've been looking at Bones STF 51mm V1s to replace my old Spitfire Formula 1 Streetburners, they feel very slick on Skatelite

[rocklobster]

Are Pig wheels any good? Saw some sellers on AliExpress selling them pretty cheap:

SG$ 29.02  33%OFF | USA Brand 4PCS Skateboard Wheels 51/52/53/54/55/56mm Skate Wheel Hot Sale 101A PU Wheels for Skateboarding Truck Accessories
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ExnQOlLw

[jay_nev]

Speaking of cheap.. can score some steals at Vans stores usually, at least around me. Had some F4 for $15-20 (black, smaller sizes, etc) and also some classics for $10 or more. Last set type deal if you catch it right.

[moonordie]

Speaking of cheap.. can score some steals at Vans stores usually, at least around me. Had some F4 for $15-20 (black, smaller sizes, etc) and also some classics for $10 or more. Last set type deal if you catch it right.

Death to black wheels

[jay_nev]

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Speaking of cheap.. can score some steals at Vans stores usually, at least around me. Had some F4 for $15-20 (black, smaller sizes, etc) and also some classics for $10 or more. Last set type deal if you catch it right.

[close]

Death to black wheels

Yeah won’t do black wheels. In the glass case they looked “normal” F4 white too.

[rob]

Do wheels go bad?

Like if you don’t skate them or let them get can they actually dry out and just not skate well anymore?

I’m wondering cause I’ve had this old set of 1 year old f4 and they’re a little more yellow than fresh and I can’t tell if they’ve stiffen up or are still fine

[anon]

Do wheels go bad?

Like if you don’t skate them or let them get can they actually dry out and just not skate well anymore?

I’m wondering cause I’ve had this old set of 1 year old f4 and they’re a little more yellow than fresh and I can’t tell if they’ve stiffen up or are still fine

sometimes i want to stock up on wheels when there's a sale but i'm afraid they'll go bad. i wonder if bushings and pivot cups go bad

[palelight]

Do wheels go bad?

Like if you don’t skate them or let them get can they actually dry out and just not skate well anymore?

I’m wondering cause I’ve had this old set of 1 year old f4 and they’re a little more yellow than fresh and I can’t tell if they’ve stiffen up or are still fine

Sure, urethane can degrade but it's sort of relative when it comes to skate gear. UV light is the most destructive thing (which is why if you see rubber tires or urethane car parts left in the elements they're more or less fucked), and then as urethane is mildly porous you have to worry about moisture (which is why you can rit dye wheels etc.). But as long as you keep them somewhere in a relatively stable temp, out of direct light, and dry (i.e a box in a closet), there's no reason things like wheels and bushings can't last for a very long time. Which is why you have people who exclusively sell NOS Powell wheels and Bennett/Variflex bushings and whatever else.

Will they be as crispy as something poured last week? No, but then again, those F4's you just bought might have been poured 3 years ago at this point. Keeping wheels and truck parts fresh is a hell of a lot easier than keeping a yet-to-be skated deck lying around unwarped.

[rob]

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Do wheels go bad?

Like if you don’t skate them or let them get can they actually dry out and just not skate well anymore?

I’m wondering cause I’ve had this old set of 1 year old f4 and they’re a little more yellow than fresh and I can’t tell if they’ve stiffen up or are still fine

[close]

Sure, urethane can degrade but it's sort of relative when it comes to skate gear. UV light is the most destructive thing (which is why if you see rubber tires or urethane car parts left in the elements they're more or less fucked), and then as urethane is mildly porous you have to worry about moisture (which is why you can rit dye wheels etc.). But as long as you keep them somewhere in a relatively stable temp, out of direct light, and dry (i.e a box in a closet), there's no reason things like wheels and bushings can't last for a very long time. Which is why you have people who exclusively sell NOS Powell wheels and Bennett/Variflex bushings and whatever else.

Will they be as crispy as something poured last week? No, but then again, those F4's you just bought might have been poured 3 years ago at this point. Keeping wheels and truck parts fresh is a hell of a lot easier than keeping a yet-to-be skated deck lying around unwarped.

Thanks this is the exact kind of answer I was looking for because I’m wondering if I would be feeling the same feels for my wheels even though they look crusted over

Like I know when spit classics and those kind of wheels yellow out they kinda harden up too

Yeah it sucks preserving decks only to find out they got a little warped

[Woos]

What are you guys riding on Skatelite?  I’m in love with 52-53mm 99a Radial Slims for pretty much everything other than Skatelite transition.  It’s not horrible but it’s still way too slick in the half pipe and bowl at my local.

I’ve heard Easy Streets are a lot more sticky than F4s but 99a is still quite hard so I’m a bit skeptical.  I also am considering Ricta Clouds in 92a but I’m worried that those will be too soft for things like nose slides.  I guess it’s hard to get the best of both worlds so I might just need to bring two different setups if I plan on skating transition that day.

[Yesterdays-pop]

Keep your wheels in the fridge or freezer in a paper bag
Stay fresh and white

[Yesterdays-pop]

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My assortment of the new Ricta Clouds came in a couple days ago and I've been riding all three of them around on different setups. First impression is that all three are great and with small improvements over the older ones. They all have the same more traditional conical shape (similar contact patch to Spitfire Conical Fulls) with a ground finish (no more treads or excess urethane rings around the wheels. The cores are a definite step up as well!



78A - Feels like the same fast and floaty (and somewhat bouncy) ride the originals have, no difference here other than the improved core and shape. I got these in 54 and 56mm and noticed the contact patch was exactly the same.

86A - Still very fast and no more treads. Bearing core is now center-set on these as well so they're truly reversible. They also come in 54mm now.

92A - These feel faster than the previous version which I skated a few times then ditched. I'd call them a hard 92A because the core makes them a bit noisier and they feel closer to 95A to me. The core makes them faster though and I was able to get them to slide (speed check) a bit easier than the Sml 92A's I also skate. When rolling out of my driveway onto the road these picked up speed quick with little pushing, I really liked them a lot!

Speaking of the Sml 92A's, which I call a soft 92A as they feel more like 88-90A to me. I would place them right in the middle of the 86A and 92A Rictas. Not as hard as the Ricta 92A nor quite as fast (depending on the surface) but quieter and a little more grippy like the 86A Rictas. If you can't decide between the two and only want one wheel then the Sml wheels are a perfect choice.

I'll post again if I have any manufacturing or wear issues with the Rictas. The sewer and irrigation grates where I live in Okinawa can shred a poorly made cored wheel with one unlucky rollover (ahem Spitfire 80HD Chargers) but I intentionally went over a lot of rough ones yesterday and there was no chunking or visible damage.

Let me know if there's any questions and I'll try to get the answers. Now I'm off to have more fun on these wheels!

[close]

awesome write up thanks for the comparison. And tying in the SML as well. Any experience with OJ keyframe 87a and how they fit in?

[close]

Sure thing! Keyframes feel about the same as 86A Rictas speed-wise on smoother surfaces but just a tad harder and slower on rough surfaces. Regarding build quality I think the Rictas are much better. Keyframe cores are slightly off-center, made of cheaper plastic and the shape of the wheel isn't the same on both sides. On one side you get the rounded conical edge and the other side has a sharp conical edge that often has air bubbles in it and I've shredded/chunked with mild curb contact. I've pretty much sworn off Keyframes and Spitfire 80HD Charges because of their build quality. Also, the ground finish of the Rictas makes them a bit easier to get into a slide than Keyframes.

By the look of those Rictas, keyframes sound amazing

[Roisto]

What are you guys riding on Skatelite?  I’m in love with 52-53mm 99a Radial Slims for pretty much everything other than Skatelite transition.  It’s not horrible but it’s still way too slick in the half pipe and bowl at my local.

I’ve heard Easy Streets are a lot more sticky than F4s but 99a is still quite hard so I’m a bit skeptical.  I also am considering Ricta Clouds in 92a but I’m worried that those will be too soft for things like nose slides.  I guess it’s hard to get the best of both worlds so I might just need to bring two different setups if I plan on skating transition that day.

Easy streets were slippery as fuck on a plywood mini. Completely unpredictable wheel compared to F4s IMO. Maybe the 97A Slime Balls could be good for slippery indoor skating? I've only tested them on my mate's setup for a few tricks on a slippery shop floor though and I was focusing on the deck so I've got no real view on how they perform.

[Woos]

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What are you guys riding on Skatelite?  I’m in love with 52-53mm 99a Radial Slims for pretty much everything other than Skatelite transition.  It’s not horrible but it’s still way too slick in the half pipe and bowl at my local.

I’ve heard Easy Streets are a lot more sticky than F4s but 99a is still quite hard so I’m a bit skeptical.  I also am considering Ricta Clouds in 92a but I’m worried that those will be too soft for things like nose slides.  I guess it’s hard to get the best of both worlds so I might just need to bring two different setups if I plan on skating transition that day.

[close]

Easy streets were slippery as fuck on a plywood mini. Completely unpredictable wheel compared to F4s IMO. Maybe the 97A Slime Balls could be good for slippery indoor skating? I've only tested them on my mate's setup for a few tricks on a slippery shop floor though and I was focusing on the deck so I've got no real view on how they perform.

Damn I was going off Ben Degros saying the Easy Streets were stickier than 99a F4s and he could skate them on Skatelite. He said they weren’t ideal though and dude is a much better skater than I’ll ever be so I was skeptical.

Good call on the Slime Balls. My local indoor carries a decent amount of wheels but it seems like that’s what they sell and carry the most of. I was thinking it was due to groms buying up colored wheels but them being good on Skatelite makes sense.  I’m gonna borrow one of those kid’s boards and see how I like them and report back to this thread.

I’d just stick with 99a F4s but I’ve been itching to learn transition since I’m only getting older.  I also saw a gnarly slam yesterday.  Dude dropped in and pushed hard to clear a ten foot euro for a gap contest and slipped out right before a down ramp. Went straight to flat (concrete) and the platform is 5 feet tall.  Worst part is he was max speed and wasn’t expecting it and landed full force in his shoulder.

I fucking hate Skatelite.  Fucking Wisconsin winters man...

[Schinken]

Hi, I need your advice:
I need some wheels to practice street and can't decide between Bones stf and Spitfire Formula 4. Which one has the faster rollspeed? Which durometer is better for normal /rough asphalt? 103a 101a or 99a?

Other suggestions?

I'm a bit clueless since I didn't ride hard wheels for quite a long time.
Thanks

[woodinbrine]

I was slipping out a lot on F4s at the local indoor park, but have been having decent luck with Slime Balls.

[rocklobster]

Hi, I need your advice:
I need some wheels to practice street and can't decide between Bones stf and Spitfire Formula 4. Which one has the faster rollspeed? Which durometer is better for normal /rough asphalt? 103a 101a or 99a?

Other suggestions?

I'm a bit clueless since I didn't ride hard wheels for quite a long time.
Thanks

Where will you be doing most of your skating? If you're just starting out and learning to roll around, I would save the money and go with a set of blank wheels. Yes, you'll outgrow them but I really don't see a point in spending twice the amount on a pair of Spitfires when you're just learning to roll around and maybe pop some ollies.

Mini Logo wheels are a good choice for a starting setup, can't go wrong with that price.

Again, if you're starting out, Spitfires / Bones / 99a / 101a won't have a great impact on your speed.

[jay_nev]

My assortment of the new Ricta Clouds came in a couple days ago and I've been riding all three of them around on different setups. First impression is that all three are great and with small improvements over the older ones. They all have the same more traditional conical shape (similar contact patch to Spitfire Conical Fulls) with a ground finish (no more treads or excess urethane rings around the wheels. The cores are a definite step up as well!



Let me know if there's any questions and I'll try to get the answers. Now I'm off to have more fun on these wheels!

Even tho the new clouds are an upgrade in what seems every way, I can’t get over the shiny core appearance. They look like fake/toy wheels. How are they worn in a bit?

[Schinken]

Expand Quote

Hi, I need your advice:
I need some wheels to practice street and can't decide between Bones stf and Spitfire Formula 4. Which one has the faster rollspeed? Which durometer is better for normal /rough asphalt? 103a 101a or 99a?

Other suggestions?

I'm a bit clueless since I didn't ride hard wheels for quite a long time.
Thanks

[close]

Where will you be doing most of your skating? If you're just starting out and learning to roll around, I would save the money and go with a set of blank wheels. Yes, you'll outgrow them but I really don't see a point in spending twice the amount on a pair of Spitfires when you're just learning to roll around and maybe pop some ollies.

Mini Logo wheels are a good choice for a starting setup, can't go wrong with that price.

Again, if you're starting out, Spitfires / Bones / 99a / 101a won't have a great impact on your speed.

I do small hillbombs, sliding, Ollie's, trying fliptricks(not very successful).Learning to roll around is not what I intended. I wanted harder wheels for more tolerance
for landing tricks but I still want to be able to reach decent speed/distance while pushing.

[rocklobster]

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Hi, I need your advice:
I need some wheels to practice street and can't decide between Bones stf and Spitfire Formula 4. Which one has the faster rollspeed? Which durometer is better for normal /rough asphalt? 103a 101a or 99a?

Other suggestions?

I'm a bit clueless since I didn't ride hard wheels for quite a long time.
Thanks

[close]

Where will you be doing most of your skating? If you're just starting out and learning to roll around, I would save the money and go with a set of blank wheels. Yes, you'll outgrow them but I really don't see a point in spending twice the amount on a pair of Spitfires when you're just learning to roll around and maybe pop some ollies.

Mini Logo wheels are a good choice for a starting setup, can't go wrong with that price.

Again, if you're starting out, Spitfires / Bones / 99a / 101a won't have a great impact on your speed.

[close]

I do small hillbombs, sliding, Ollie's, trying fliptricks(not very successful).Learning to roll around is not what I intended. I wanted harder wheels for more tolerance
for landing tricks but I still want to be able to reach decent speed/distance while pushing.

Mini Logos if you're on a budget and Bones if you got the money.

[ohthembones]

Expand Quote

My assortment of the new Ricta Clouds came in a couple days ago and I've been riding all three of them around on different setups. First impression is that all three are great and with small improvements over the older ones. They all have the same more traditional conical shape (similar contact patch to Spitfire Conical Fulls) with a ground finish (no more treads or excess urethane rings around the wheels. The cores are a definite step up as well!



Let me know if there's any questions and I'll try to get the answers. Now I'm off to have more fun on these wheels!

[close]

Even tho the new clouds are an upgrade in what seems every way, I can’t get over the shiny core appearance. They look like fake/toy wheels. How are they worn in a bit?

Yeah, I don't love the shiny core look either but they seem to be holding up okay. There's a few spots where the color is gone but it's shiny silver underneath so I don't really notice. It's not like there's some weird color underneath that really sticks out or something. I'm really happy with how they perform though so I can deal with one aesthetic aspect that I don't love.

[palelight]

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awesome write up thanks for the comparison. And tying in the SML as well. Any experience with OJ keyframe 87a and how they fit in?

[close]

Sure thing! Keyframes feel about the same as 86A Rictas speed-wise on smoother surfaces but just a tad harder and slower on rough surfaces. Regarding build quality I think the Rictas are much better. Keyframe cores are slightly off-center, made of cheaper plastic and the shape of the wheel isn't the same on both sides. On one side you get the rounded conical edge and the other side has a sharp conical edge that often has air bubbles in it and I've shredded/chunked with mild curb contact. I've pretty much sworn off Keyframes and Spitfire 80HD Charges because of their build quality. Also, the ground finish of the Rictas makes them a bit easier to get into a slide than Keyframes.

I'm wondering about this. I had a set of Ricta 86's and Keyframes at the same time. Ended up selling the Rictas. Although the center set was a plus, I found the classic/donut shape of the Rictas to be inferior as a rough spot/cruiser wheel. The conical shape of the Keyframe worked much better for me. Mind you I didn't keep the Rictas long enough to put serious wear on them, I found the overall construction to be very equal between the two. They are poured in the same factory by the same company after all. I'd 100% put Keyframes above 80HD Chargers in every way, which indeed are total crap. I've had my Keyframes for about 8 months now, and that setup takes regular slappy abuse, no signs of chunking out or abnormal wear and tear. Maybe you got a dud set?

[rocklobster]

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awesome write up thanks for the comparison. And tying in the SML as well. Any experience with OJ keyframe 87a and how they fit in?

[close]

Sure thing! Keyframes feel about the same as 86A Rictas speed-wise on smoother surfaces but just a tad harder and slower on rough surfaces. Regarding build quality I think the Rictas are much better. Keyframe cores are slightly off-center, made of cheaper plastic and the shape of the wheel isn't the same on both sides. On one side you get the rounded conical edge and the other side has a sharp conical edge that often has air bubbles in it and I've shredded/chunked with mild curb contact. I've pretty much sworn off Keyframes and Spitfire 80HD Charges because of their build quality. Also, the ground finish of the Rictas makes them a bit easier to get into a slide than Keyframes.

[close]

I'm wondering about this. I had a set of Ricta 86's and Keyframes at the same time. Ended up selling the Rictas. Although the center set was a plus, I found the classic/donut shape of the Rictas to be inferior as a rough spot/cruiser wheel. The conical shape of the Keyframe worked much better for me. Mind you I didn't keep the Rictas long enough to put serious wear on them, I found the overall construction to be very equal between the two. They are poured in the same factory by the same company after all. I'd 100% put Keyframes above 80HD Chargers in every way, which indeed are total crap. I've had my Keyframes for about 8 months now, and that setup takes regular slappy abuse, no signs of chunking out or abnormal wear and tear. Maybe you got a dud set?

I was wondering recently why dual durometer wheels fell out of favor, is it just a gimmick to sell us more wheels?

[Xen]

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awesome write up thanks for the comparison. And tying in the SML as well. Any experience with OJ keyframe 87a and how they fit in?

[close]

Sure thing! Keyframes feel about the same as 86A Rictas speed-wise on smoother surfaces but just a tad harder and slower on rough surfaces. Regarding build quality I think the Rictas are much better. Keyframe cores are slightly off-center, made of cheaper plastic and the shape of the wheel isn't the same on both sides. On one side you get the rounded conical edge and the other side has a sharp conical edge that often has air bubbles in it and I've shredded/chunked with mild curb contact. I've pretty much sworn off Keyframes and Spitfire 80HD Charges because of their build quality. Also, the ground finish of the Rictas makes them a bit easier to get into a slide than Keyframes.

[close]

I'm wondering about this. I had a set of Ricta 86's and Keyframes at the same time. Ended up selling the Rictas. Although the center set was a plus, I found the classic/donut shape of the Rictas to be inferior as a rough spot/cruiser wheel. The conical shape of the Keyframe worked much better for me. Mind you I didn't keep the Rictas long enough to put serious wear on them, I found the overall construction to be very equal between the two. They are poured in the same factory by the same company after all. I'd 100% put Keyframes above 80HD Chargers in every way, which indeed are total crap. I've had my Keyframes for about 8 months now, and that setup takes regular slappy abuse, no signs of chunking out or abnormal wear and tear. Maybe you got a dud set?

[close]

I was wondering recently why dual durometer wheels fell out of favor, is it just a gimmick to sell us more wheels?

No clue other than Autobahn going bust, but with them back in action maybe we'll see some from them. Spitfire tried it ages ago on F1s but had shit quality control with cores popping out all the time (ricta did as welll waaaaaaaaaaay back when naturals were popular); Ricta, and now Powerflex are all that's left for hard, cored, wheels.

Cored wheels offer a (hopefully) perfect bearing seat (no wobble...you know who you are 'big wheel co.'), supposedly roll faster, absorb more shock than a regular pour, hard wheel (with a hard out/softer inner core giving you a cushier ride but still giving that hard wheel slide and control). I've also never seen any write-ups or science to back any of that shit up. However, a proper bearing seat does seem the most logical across all duros,  and you can easily make the case for big ass soft wheels having a core to net the most secure seat for the bearing (instead of the soft squishy wheel bearing seat that might deform under load/stress). They're also a bit lighter.

I've skated Ricta's chrome cores many times (and like them) when they were the chalky, teeth chattering kind, and speed rings with shitty urethane until they switched to NRG which were fantastic wheels and super fucking light, but then they vanished and it's just been pro nyjah chrome core wheel for sale forEVER until the recent drop.

[Woos]

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awesome write up thanks for the comparison. And tying in the SML as well. Any experience with OJ keyframe 87a and how they fit in?

[close]

Sure thing! Keyframes feel about the same as 86A Rictas speed-wise on smoother surfaces but just a tad harder and slower on rough surfaces. Regarding build quality I think the Rictas are much better. Keyframe cores are slightly off-center, made of cheaper plastic and the shape of the wheel isn't the same on both sides. On one side you get the rounded conical edge and the other side has a sharp conical edge that often has air bubbles in it and I've shredded/chunked with mild curb contact. I've pretty much sworn off Keyframes and Spitfire 80HD Charges because of their build quality. Also, the ground finish of the Rictas makes them a bit easier to get into a slide than Keyframes.

[close]

I'm wondering about this. I had a set of Ricta 86's and Keyframes at the same time. Ended up selling the Rictas. Although the center set was a plus, I found the classic/donut shape of the Rictas to be inferior as a rough spot/cruiser wheel. The conical shape of the Keyframe worked much better for me. Mind you I didn't keep the Rictas long enough to put serious wear on them, I found the overall construction to be very equal between the two. They are poured in the same factory by the same company after all. I'd 100% put Keyframes above 80HD Chargers in every way, which indeed are total crap. I've had my Keyframes for about 8 months now, and that setup takes regular slappy abuse, no signs of chunking out or abnormal wear and tear. Maybe you got a dud set?

[close]

I was wondering recently why dual durometer wheels fell out of favor, is it just a gimmick to sell us more wheels?

[close]

No clue other than Autobahn going bust, but with them back in action maybe we'll see some from them. Spitfire tried it ages ago on F1s but had shit quality control with cores popping out all the time (ricta did as welll waaaaaaaaaaay back when naturals were popular); Ricta, and now Powerflex are all that's left for hard, cored, wheels.

Cored wheels offer a (hopefully) perfect bearing seat (no wobble...you know who you are 'big wheel co.'), supposedly roll faster, absorb more shock than a regular pour, hard wheel (with a hard out/softer inner core giving you a cushier ride but still giving that hard wheel slide and control). I've also never seen any write-ups or science to back any of that shit up. However, a proper bearing seat does seem the most logical across all duros,  and you can easily make the case for big ass soft wheels having a core to net the most secure seat for the bearing (instead of the soft squishy wheel bearing seat that might deform under load/stress). They're also a bit lighter.

I've skated Ricta's chrome cores many times (and like them) when they were the chalky, teeth chattering kind, and speed rings with shitty urethane until they switched to NRG which were fantastic wheels and super fucking light, but then they vanished and it's just been pro nyjah chrome core wheel for sale forEVER until the recent drop.

I feel like bearings with built in spacers make a bigger difference than cores.  Cores add another part to fail since they need to be perfectly flush with the urethane.  I'd assume that if it isn't flush and properly adhered it is going to cause more failures.  I've always been skeptical about inner cores because of that.

[jay_nev]

Good insight on both ends, only have experience with 80hd chargers in the urethane range so looking to try oj keyframe or ricta chrome cloud real soon.

[Woos]

Good insight on both ends, only have experience with 80hd chargers in the urethane range so looking to try oj keyframe or ricta chrome cloud real soon.

Looking forward to hearing what you think.  I've always rocked 99-103a wheels but I've been wanting to get into filming skating since I'm not the best skater and since I also have a ton of experience when it comes to filming skiing.  I'm really torn between those three wheels along with Bones ATFs for when I set up a filming board.  I'm mainly considering Keyframes and the softer 2/3 Clouds.  It would even sweeter if the wheels make good cruiser wheels.

[Roisto]

How do you get bearings out of the chrome cores? If it's a proper tight fit wouldn't it make it next to impossible to twist the bearing out like on normal urethane wheels? A bearing puller might work but probably not if you use spacers or bearings with built in spacers. 🤔 Basically I'm not really sure what the advantage of the chrome cores really is. 

[rocklobster]

Anyone ride Crupie wheels before? Tempted to try a pair of their slim wheels, Joey Brezinski's model is 27mm other models are around 28mm wide. Looking for some skinny ass wheels for smoother slides

[Smartass]

Anyone ride Crupie wheels before? Tempted to try a pair of their slim wheels, Joey Brezinski's model is 27mm other models are around 28mm wide. Looking for some skinny ass wheels for smoother slides

If you're look for a thin wheel then they're great. I personally liked Crupies when I was using them, but I wouldn't buy a set for full price. Keep looking around and they'll pop for super cheap. They also tend to bark a bit more than F4s and the like but personally didn't bug me.