The Set-up Thread

[UPPERCASEnocap]

I'm a Set up whore, from left to right..
8.25 Wknd Alex Schmitt, 149 standard indys, bones medium, bones stf v5 53mm, shake junt bearings, jessup ultra
8.38 Primitive PRod, 149 indy hollows, bones medium, bones stf v2 53, shake junt bearings, Jessup
8.25 Creature, 44 aces, bones hard, Bones easy street V5 53, bones big balls, mob wu-tang grip
8.25 Primitive Tucker, 144 indy hollows, bones medium, mini logo c-cut 53, bronson raws, Grizzly grip
8.06 real with 139 indys standard stock bushings, grizzly grip

Currently switching between the 8.25 primitive and the 8.25 creature set up. I love both of them and just can't decide.

[spanyard]

Thank you, now I don't feel bad for having three setups.

[Woos]

Expand Quote

I’ve decided to go with a 8.25 or 8.375 Quasi next time and some 149 Indy Forged Hollow Stage 11s to move the WB in slightly and raise the height while not going full Indy 55mm.  These trucks are just too low at my size and the long wheelbase....

[close]

Maybe you should try Thunders but with the Team baseplate. It gives you an additional 1mm of height, and - maybe I'm wrong - I have the impression that the wheelbase is shorter than standard Thunders (I found that the baseplate touch the ledge on nose slides, which is not the case for standard Thunders with the same wheels).

Overall, I find that Thunders Team are pretty close to Indy Forged Hollow in terms of geometry, but they keep the "pinch" feeling of Thunders, and they are lighter.

Yeah I'm aware of them being 1mm higher but good looking dude.  I'm almost positive you are wrong about the wheelbase though, I believe it is the same on both of them unless something has changed and I never heard about it.  If I stick with 8-8.25" trucks on a Quasi I'd definitely stick with Thunder though as I've gotten more used to it the last couple of days.  If I go with 8.5" trucks I think I'm still going to go with Indies, especially if it's with an 8.25-8.357".  If I don't like it then oh well, back to Thunders.  It isn't like I won't find another use for some Indy 149s.  Now I'm more conflicted about choosing between the Forged Hollow /Forged Titanium Indy 149s with a height of 53.5mm and the Standard Hollow 149s at 55mm.  I figure if I'm stepping up my board size I'd also step up to 53mm-54mm Radial Slims or Classics so it makes it a bit more difficult for me to decide.  54mm Conical Fulls would also be dope but coming from such a small and light setup it might be too much for me to exclusively ride those instead of just using them for the occasional spot that requires them.

I miss being a dumb kid that was satisfied with what he had instead of being on an endless hunt for the "Perfect Setup".  I spend enough money doing that with skiing gear so I hope I find it.  This current setup is close but a bigger setup is on my mind and every time I don't land something I wonder if it's due to the size.

[rocklobster]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

So I updated my board and threw some 99a 52mm Spitfire F4 Radial Slims and some Bones Hardcore Hards on it (originally 103a 52mm and Bones Hardcore Mediums).

The wheels are a huge upgrade and hands down the best shape I’ve ever rocked when it comes to thinner techy wheels. I love how they look as well.  The bushings fixed the constant wheelbite issue but are way too stiff for me but I’m sure they’d get better once broken in but I instead decided to go with Hards on the bottom and Medium up top.  It’s much better than before and I believe I’ll stick with that setup.

I’ve decided to go with a 8.25 or 8.375 Quasi next time and some 149 Indy Forged Hollow Stage 11s to move the WB in slightly and raise the height while not going full Indy 55mm.  These trucks are just too low at my size and the long wheelbase of the Indys are a little too aggressive for me I think... not to mention the level of shit that 147 Thunders are at Smiths/Feebles... fuck a that kingpin.  I can skate it well and pop insanely high but the front feels a bit too heavy for me and it forces me to kick down harder than I have the energy for.  If I was in my prime I’d stick with Thunders and step up to 148s with this board and 149s with an 8.25/8.375.

I’m not sure what length 8.25 I’d go with. I love the 32.375 length of this board but I’d like to compare shapes between the 8.25x32.375” and 8.25x8.125”. The 8.375s are 32.25”.  Since I’m going Indy any would work I’m sure but if I stayed Thunder I’d stick to the 32.375”.

If you didn’t see my last post here are the specs;

Board: Quasi Happiness 8.0” x 32.375” x 14.25”
Grip: MOB
Trucks: Thunder Hollow Light II 147s
Bushings: Bones Hardcore w/ Medium Top & Hard Bottom (Colored the yellow part black)
Wheels: 52mm Spitfire F4 Radial Slim 99a
Bearings: Bones Reds (Shieldless)
Hardware: 7/8 Allen Shorty’s Silverados

[close]

Nice, but I wish you’d go into a bit more detail.

[close]

Lol sorry, thanks though.  I know a lot of people are curious about this shape but there’s not a lot of information about it out there unlike popular boards such as DLX shapes.

The Radial Slims look really good. Which would be a better wheel, Classics or Radial Slims, assuming I'm trying to learn bluntslides?

I have a pair of F1 Streetburners Classic Shape which I find very slippery on skatelite. I have a pair of Lock-Ins which do lock in nicely but the increase contact with the ledge can make grinds feel a little unpredictable.

[GoneWithTheSchwinn]

Anyone skate a Carpet deck? How’s the concave?

[fang]

Blind Lotti Showgirls 8.125
Indy 139 standard
bones swiss
Shorty's 7/8 allen
Boardy Cakes 44mm

[Firebert]

Anyone skate a Carpet deck? How’s the concave?

A happy medium on my 8.25s

[Woos]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

So I updated my board and threw some 99a 52mm Spitfire F4 Radial Slims and some Bones Hardcore Hards on it (originally 103a 52mm and Bones Hardcore Mediums).

The wheels are a huge upgrade and hands down the best shape I’ve ever rocked when it comes to thinner techy wheels. I love how they look as well.  The bushings fixed the constant wheelbite issue but are way too stiff for me but I’m sure they’d get better once broken in but I instead decided to go with Hards on the bottom and Medium up top.  It’s much better than before and I believe I’ll stick with that setup.

I’ve decided to go with a 8.25 or 8.375 Quasi next time and some 149 Indy Forged Hollow Stage 11s to move the WB in slightly and raise the height while not going full Indy 55mm.  These trucks are just too low at my size and the long wheelbase of the Indys are a little too aggressive for me I think... not to mention the level of shit that 147 Thunders are at Smiths/Feebles... fuck a that kingpin.  I can skate it well and pop insanely high but the front feels a bit too heavy for me and it forces me to kick down harder than I have the energy for.  If I was in my prime I’d stick with Thunders and step up to 148s with this board and 149s with an 8.25/8.375.

I’m not sure what length 8.25 I’d go with. I love the 32.375 length of this board but I’d like to compare shapes between the 8.25x32.375” and 8.25x8.125”. The 8.375s are 32.25”.  Since I’m going Indy any would work I’m sure but if I stayed Thunder I’d stick to the 32.375”.

If you didn’t see my last post here are the specs;

Board: Quasi Happiness 8.0” x 32.375” x 14.25”
Grip: MOB
Trucks: Thunder Hollow Light II 147s
Bushings: Bones Hardcore w/ Medium Top & Hard Bottom (Colored the yellow part black)
Wheels: 52mm Spitfire F4 Radial Slim 99a
Bearings: Bones Reds (Shieldless)
Hardware: 7/8 Allen Shorty’s Silverados

[close]

Nice, but I wish you’d go into a bit more detail.

[close]

Lol sorry, thanks though.  I know a lot of people are curious about this shape but there’s not a lot of information about it out there unlike popular boards such as DLX shapes.

[close]

The Radial Slims look really good. Which would be a better wheel, Classics or Radial Slims, assuming I'm trying to learn bluntslides?

I have a pair of F1 Streetburners Classic Shape which I find very slippery on skatelite. I have a pair of Lock-Ins which do lock in nicely but the increase contact with the ledge can make grinds feel a little unpredictable.

The Radial Slims will lock in a lot better but the Classics will slide better.  I'd go with the Radial Slims though as you get the best of all Formula Fours.  It's a squarish wheel so it locks in well but it is rounded so you can still slappy.  It has a lot of contact area so you have a smooth and stable ride but it has more room than your typical squared Conical/Conical Fulls so you grinds are easier and since the contact patch is smaller than those wheels it slides a lot easier.  If you ride a larger board I'd go with 53s or 54s but that's your call.  The 52s would still be very solid.  Also 101as would obviously slide better but it isn't necessary.  The 99as are more than enough for reverts, tail/nose slides and blunts.  I live in the midwest and deal with very hot and very cold weather, smooth Skatelite indoor parks as well as your typical concrete outdoor parks, and I also ride a lot of smooth flatground and skate a lot of insanely crusty snowplow damaged street spots.

Honestly I can't think of a better all around wheel than the 99a Radial Slims.  Spitfire Formula Four Classics and Bones STF Easy Street V1s are good too however.

F4 Tablets and Bones STF V2s would also be good for Blunts but I personally don't find that type of shape to be satisfactory for an all around wheel.  I also believe that the Radial Slims would blunt just as good.

[rocklobster]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

The Radial Slims will lock in a lot better but the Classics will slide better.  I'd go with the Radial Slims though as you get the best of all Formula Fours.  It's a squarish wheel so it locks in well but it is rounded so you can still slappy.  It has a lot of contact area so you have a smooth and stable ride but it has more room than your typical squared Conical/Conical Fulls so you grinds are easier and since the contact patch is smaller than those wheels it slides a lot easier.  If you ride a larger board I'd go with 53s or 54s but that's your call.  The 52s would still be very solid.  Also 101as would obviously slide better but it isn't necessary.  The 99as are more than enough for reverts, tail/nose slides and blunts.  I live in the midwest and deal with very hot and very cold weather, smooth Skatelite indoor parks as well as your typical concrete outdoor parks, and I also ride a lot of smooth flatground and skate a lot of insanely crusty snowplow damaged street spots.

Honestly I can't think of a better all around wheel than the 99a Radial Slims.  Spitfire Formula Four Classics and Bones STF Easy Street V1s are good too however.

F4 Tablets and Bones STF V2s would also be good for Blunts but I personally don't find that type of shape to be satisfactory for an all around wheel.  I also believe that the Radial Slims would blunt just as good.

[close]

Thank you, I can feel the cash loosening from my wallet already. Someone put up a set of 99a Spitfire Classics, White Out AVE. They look so good. I'm looking to get rid of my Streetburners and Lock-ins, stick to the newer stuff.

[close]

[close]

[close]

[Roisto]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

So I updated my board and threw some 99a 52mm Spitfire F4 Radial Slims and some Bones Hardcore Hards on it (originally 103a 52mm and Bones Hardcore Mediums).

The wheels are a huge upgrade and hands down the best shape I’ve ever rocked when it comes to thinner techy wheels. I love how they look as well.  The bushings fixed the constant wheelbite issue but are way too stiff for me but I’m sure they’d get better once broken in but I instead decided to go with Hards on the bottom and Medium up top.  It’s much better than before and I believe I’ll stick with that setup.

I’ve decided to go with a 8.25 or 8.375 Quasi next time and some 149 Indy Forged Hollow Stage 11s to move the WB in slightly and raise the height while not going full Indy 55mm.  These trucks are just too low at my size and the long wheelbase of the Indys are a little too aggressive for me I think... not to mention the level of shit that 147 Thunders are at Smiths/Feebles... fuck a that kingpin.  I can skate it well and pop insanely high but the front feels a bit too heavy for me and it forces me to kick down harder than I have the energy for.  If I was in my prime I’d stick with Thunders and step up to 148s with this board and 149s with an 8.25/8.375.

I’m not sure what length 8.25 I’d go with. I love the 32.375 length of this board but I’d like to compare shapes between the 8.25x32.375” and 8.25x8.125”. The 8.375s are 32.25”.  Since I’m going Indy any would work I’m sure but if I stayed Thunder I’d stick to the 32.375”.

If you didn’t see my last post here are the specs;

Board: Quasi Happiness 8.0” x 32.375” x 14.25”
Grip: MOB
Trucks: Thunder Hollow Light II 147s
Bushings: Bones Hardcore w/ Medium Top & Hard Bottom (Colored the yellow part black)
Wheels: 52mm Spitfire F4 Radial Slim 99a
Bearings: Bones Reds (Shieldless)
Hardware: 7/8 Allen Shorty’s Silverados

[close]

Nice, but I wish you’d go into a bit more detail.

[close]

Lol sorry, thanks though.  I know a lot of people are curious about this shape but there’s not a lot of information about it out there unlike popular boards such as DLX shapes.

[close]

The Radial Slims look really good. Which would be a better wheel, Classics or Radial Slims, assuming I'm trying to learn bluntslides?

I have a pair of F1 Streetburners Classic Shape which I find very slippery on skatelite. I have a pair of Lock-Ins which do lock in nicely but the increase contact with the ledge can make grinds feel a little unpredictable.

[close]

The Radial Slims will lock in a lot better but the Classics will slide better.  I'd go with the Radial Slims though as you get the best of all Formula Fours.  It's a squarish wheel so it locks in well but it is rounded so you can still slappy.  It has a lot of contact area so you have a smooth and stable ride but it has more room than your typical squared Conical/Conical Fulls so you grinds are easier and since the contact patch is smaller than those wheels it slides a lot easier.  If you ride a larger board I'd go with 53s or 54s but that's your call.  The 52s would still be very solid.  Also 101as would obviously slide better but it isn't necessary.  The 99as are more than enough for reverts, tail/nose slides and blunts.  I live in the midwest and deal with very hot and very cold weather, smooth Skatelite indoor parks as well as your typical concrete outdoor parks, and I also ride a lot of smooth flatground and skate a lot of insanely crusty snowplow damaged street spots.

Honestly I can't think of a better all around wheel than the 99a Radial Slims.  Spitfire Formula Four Classics and Bones STF Easy Street V1s are good too however.

F4 Tablets and Bones STF V2s would also be good for Blunts but I personally don't find that type of shape to be satisfactory for an all around wheel.  I also believe that the Radial Slims would blunt just as good.

Wrong. Contact patch width does not affect grip.

[Krooked antihero]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

So I updated my board and threw some 99a 52mm Spitfire F4 Radial Slims and some Bones Hardcore Hards on it (originally 103a 52mm and Bones Hardcore Mediums).

The wheels are a huge upgrade and hands down the best shape I’ve ever rocked when it comes to thinner techy wheels. I love how they look as well.  The bushings fixed the constant wheelbite issue but are way too stiff for me but I’m sure they’d get better once broken in but I instead decided to go with Hards on the bottom and Medium up top.  It’s much better than before and I believe I’ll stick with that setup.

I’ve decided to go with a 8.25 or 8.375 Quasi next time and some 149 Indy Forged Hollow Stage 11s to move the WB in slightly and raise the height while not going full Indy 55mm.  These trucks are just too low at my size and the long wheelbase of the Indys are a little too aggressive for me I think... not to mention the level of shit that 147 Thunders are at Smiths/Feebles... fuck a that kingpin.  I can skate it well and pop insanely high but the front feels a bit too heavy for me and it forces me to kick down harder than I have the energy for.  If I was in my prime I’d stick with Thunders and step up to 148s with this board and 149s with an 8.25/8.375.

I’m not sure what length 8.25 I’d go with. I love the 32.375 length of this board but I’d like to compare shapes between the 8.25x32.375” and 8.25x8.125”. The 8.375s are 32.25”.  Since I’m going Indy any would work I’m sure but if I stayed Thunder I’d stick to the 32.375”.

If you didn’t see my last post here are the specs;

Board: Quasi Happiness 8.0” x 32.375” x 14.25”
Grip: MOB
Trucks: Thunder Hollow Light II 147s
Bushings: Bones Hardcore w/ Medium Top & Hard Bottom (Colored the yellow part black)
Wheels: 52mm Spitfire F4 Radial Slim 99a
Bearings: Bones Reds (Shieldless)
Hardware: 7/8 Allen Shorty’s Silverados

[close]

Nice, but I wish you’d go into a bit more detail.

[close]

Lol sorry, thanks though.  I know a lot of people are curious about this shape but there’s not a lot of information about it out there unlike popular boards such as DLX shapes.

[close]

The Radial Slims look really good. Which would be a better wheel, Classics or Radial Slims, assuming I'm trying to learn bluntslides?

I have a pair of F1 Streetburners Classic Shape which I find very slippery on skatelite. I have a pair of Lock-Ins which do lock in nicely but the increase contact with the ledge can make grinds feel a little unpredictable.

[close]

The Radial Slims will lock in a lot better but the Classics will slide better.  I'd go with the Radial Slims though as you get the best of all Formula Fours.  It's a squarish wheel so it locks in well but it is rounded so you can still slappy.  It has a lot of contact area so you have a smooth and stable ride but it has more room than your typical squared Conical/Conical Fulls so you grinds are easier and since the contact patch is smaller than those wheels it slides a lot easier.  If you ride a larger board I'd go with 53s or 54s but that's your call.  The 52s would still be very solid.  Also 101as would obviously slide better but it isn't necessary.  The 99as are more than enough for reverts, tail/nose slides and blunts.  I live in the midwest and deal with very hot and very cold weather, smooth Skatelite indoor parks as well as your typical concrete outdoor parks, and I also ride a lot of smooth flatground and skate a lot of insanely crusty snowplow damaged street spots.

Honestly I can't think of a better all around wheel than the 99a Radial Slims.  Spitfire Formula Four Classics and Bones STF Easy Street V1s are good too however.

F4 Tablets and Bones STF V2s would also be good for Blunts but I personally don't find that type of shape to be satisfactory for an all around wheel.  I also believe that the Radial Slims would blunt just as good.

[close]

Wrong. Contact patch width does not affect grip.

Here we go again...

[jtrpma]

Wrong. Contact patch width does not affect grip.

could you explain me how that makes sense?

[Roisto]

Expand Quote

Wrong. Contact patch width does not affect grip.

[close]

could you explain me how that makes sense?

Yeah, it's kinda counterintuitive but makes sense when you think about it in more detail.

Here's a good explanation from the webs:

The force due to friction is generally independent of the contact area between the two surfaces. This means that even if you have two heavy objects of the same mass, where one is half as long and twice as high as the other one, they still experience the same frictional force when you drag them over the ground. This makes sense, because if the area of contact doubles, you may think that you should get twice as much friction. But when you double the length of an object, you halve the force on each square centimeter, because less weight is above it to push down. Note that this relationship breaks down when the surface area gets too small, since then the coefficient of friction increases because the object may begin to dig into the surface.

https://www.dummies.com/education/science/physics/how-surface-area-affects-the-force-of-friction/

And here's a good video showing how it works:

[jtrpma]

thank you!

so that kind of makes sense now, that i feel like my really wide conical fulls slide much easier than classics ( since they will have less weight per square mm/inch/whatever compared to a narrower contact patch)

so the only way to get your wheels to slide better is cutting down on burritos...

[Murge]

so the only way to get your wheels to slide better is cutting down on burritos...

Burritos are pretty tight though.

[sharkin]

the classic misapplied classroom theory to real world example

[FROTHY]

the classic misapplied classroom theory to real world example

Amonton's models of friction don't even stand up to dynamic (sliding) situations in "classroom" experiments.

[bbk]

Thank you! I tried to tell him in the wheels thread awhile back.

[rocklobster]

Expand Quote

so the only way to get your wheels to slide better is cutting down on burritos...

[close]

Burritos are pretty tight though.

They are tho. Not sure if I can give up on those.

[Paco Supreme]

Burritos > slides.  Wax up more with the burrito if you have to

[FS-OverKOOK]

Expand Quote

so the only way to get your wheels to slide better is cutting down on burritos...

[close]

Burritos are pretty tight though.

[Roisto]

Expand Quote

the classic misapplied classroom theory to real world example

[close]

Amonton's models of friction don't even stand up to dynamic (sliding) situations in "classroom" experiments.

Please elaborate. So far I’ve seen or experienced nothing to support any of your claims that wider wheels have more grip.

Thank you! I tried to tell him in the wheels thread awhile back.

You did? I can’t remember any info backing any of your claims.

[bbk]

Sorry, f4 thread, not wheels.

Expand Quote

A wheel like that in 99 f4 would obviously be grippier than classics. That fact about friction does not work with skate wheels. We are grinding the wheels down, wider contact patch means more material to wear down, which means more grip.

[close]

Why not? What makes skateboard wheels special that basic physics do not apply to them? Wider contact patch means more material to wear down and better roll over uneven ground but how would it mean more grip?

https://www.physlink.com/education/askexperts/ae140.cfm

"Although a larger area of contact between two surfaces would create a larger source of frictional forces, it also reduces the pressure between the two surfaces for a given force holding them together. Since pressure equals force divided by the area of contact, it works out that the increase in friction generating area is exactly offset by the reduction in pressure; the resulting frictional forces, then, are dependent only on the frictional coefficient of the materials and the FORCE holding them together.

If you were to increase the force as you increased the area to keep PRESSURE the same, then increasing the area WOULD increase the frictional force between the two surfaces.
Answered by: Paul Walorski, B.A. Physics, Part-time Physics Instructor"

[WorkClothscape]

Sorry, f4 thread, not wheels.

Expand Quote

A wheel like that in 99 f4 would obviously be grippier than classics. That fact about friction does not work with skate wheels. We are grinding the wheels down, wider contact patch means more material to wear down, which means more grip.

[close]

That does not count as backing your claims. You are just asserting that the surface area does affect the grip.

[bbk]

Expand Quote

Sorry, f4 thread, not wheels.

Expand Quote

A wheel like that in 99 f4 would obviously be grippier than classics. That fact about friction does not work with skate wheels. We are grinding the wheels down, wider contact patch means more material to wear down, which means more grip.

[close]

[close]

That does not count as backing your claims. You are just asserting that the surface area does affect the grip.

Oh shit, I missed that. No I didn't back them up, but I still stand by it. More material to wear down equals more resistance equals more grip.

[WorkClothscape]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Sorry, f4 thread, not wheels.

Expand Quote

A wheel like that in 99 f4 would obviously be grippier than classics. That fact about friction does not work with skate wheels. We are grinding the wheels down, wider contact patch means more material to wear down, which means more grip.

[close]

[close]

That does not count as backing your claims. You are just asserting that the surface area does affect the grip.

[close]

Oh shit, I missed that. No I didn't back them up, but I still stand by it. More material to wear down equals more resistance equals more grip.

And since you don't back your claims up, we can just continue to ignore them.

[Sativa Lung]

I've got a backlog of cool stuff I've set up since the last time I posted here but this one is a personal favorite.



DOA 8.38 square shape
Ace 44s
Niki red 54mm 96a conicals (almost identical to SF conical full shape)
Bones swiss

Love the new DOA boards. I've been messing around with the trendy square shape decks lately so when he came out with these it was a no brainer. The only thing I don't love about this setup is that it's pretty heavy with the Aces, so I'm thinking of switching them over to mini logo 8.38s to make it a little lighter and lower.

Overall though it's a keeper, Fletch always has the best minimalist graphics and the shape is a nice change of pace from the e mold/flat as fuck DOA boards (I got another one of those too though). Also he sent me a free t shirt with this graphic which is awesome.

[Sativa Lung]

Woops almost forgot about this one. This is a direct result of the new Toy Machine video stirring up some Welcome to Hell nostalgia.



Toy Machine "Hell Monster" 8.25
Fury 8.25 trucks
Spitfire F4 99a conical full
Flip HKD 7 bearings

Like I said this is a nostalgia piece. The wheelbase is 14.5" which is a little too long for me. I did enjoy skating it, and it's new PS wood so the pop was great but I just don't think it'll ever be a favorite of mine with that wheelbase. Still a fun board for running to the store or messing around with pressure flips though.

[Roisto]

Sorry, f4 thread, not wheels.

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

A wheel like that in 99 f4 would obviously be grippier than classics. That fact about friction does not work with skate wheels. We are grinding the wheels down, wider contact patch means more material to wear down, which means more grip.

[close]

Why not? What makes skateboard wheels special that basic physics do not apply to them? Wider contact patch means more material to wear down and better roll over uneven ground but how would it mean more grip?

https://www.physlink.com/education/askexperts/ae140.cfm

"Although a larger area of contact between two surfaces would create a larger source of frictional forces, it also reduces the pressure between the two surfaces for a given force holding them together. Since pressure equals force divided by the area of contact, it works out that the increase in friction generating area is exactly offset by the reduction in pressure; the resulting frictional forces, then, are dependent only on the frictional coefficient of the materials and the FORCE holding them together.

If you were to increase the force as you increased the area to keep PRESSURE the same, then increasing the area WOULD increase the frictional force between the two surfaces.
Answered by: Paul Walorski, B.A. Physics, Part-time Physics Instructor"

[close]

I remember that. But just saying it is so doesn’t convince me no matter who you are. I know the whole friction thing is very counterintuitive if you don’t think about how friction actually works deeply enough.

I have nothing against you personally. I’d love to be proved wrong here but so far I haven’t seen any evidence to prove that on skateboard wheels specifically increasing the contact patch width increases the friction. I haven’t experienced that myself either (although my subjective experience really doesn’t matter one bit).

[MalHuis]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Sorry, f4 thread, not wheels.

Expand Quote

A wheel like that in 99 f4 would obviously be grippier than classics. That fact about friction does not work with skate wheels. We are grinding the wheels down, wider contact patch means more material to wear down, which means more grip.

[close]

[close]

That does not count as backing your claims. You are just asserting that the surface area does affect the grip.

[close]

Oh shit, I missed that. No I didn't back them up, but I still stand by it. More material to wear down equals more resistance equals more grip.

[close]

And since you don't back your claims up, we can just continue to ignore them.

Engineer here with a background in physics, applied science and applied maths. I've done the maths, was a while back but did it nonetheless.

More area = more grip as the coefficient of the material has an exponential curve based on force (aka rebound).

Breaking into a slide will be more difficult but maintaining said slide will be easier. Vice versa on the smaller surface wheels.

That being said, we are working with very small margins when comparing same compounds. Biggest difference you could make is based on weight and the angles/force you approach the slide. Also wider wheels will be more controllable as it would want to normalize quicker, and smaller wheels will be more difficult to normalize.

I know this is difficult to understand, cant argue the theoretical science, but there is a big difference in theoretical science and applied (assumptions/fixed variables).