Real skateboard's 3 Ply wooden risers

[Reed Richards]

Tempted to try these with my Thunder team hollows to avoid wheelbite since I use conical fulls.  Worth it?

[Mbrimson88]

Tempted to try these with my Thunder team hollows to avoid wheelbite since I use conical fulls.  Worth it?

I would say yes, but I would always have some added height on Thunders.

[jay_nev]

What mm conical full @Reed Richards ?

[Urtripping]

What mm conical full @Reed Richards ?

I ride 56mm conical fulls on Thunders, so you know wheelbite and I were not strangers. Threw these on the other day, problem solved. Pop is not dulled like you get with traditional risers.

Edit: I ride 149's and my risers did not fit exactly flush with the baseplate. Anybody else notice this?

[CaderSk8r]

Expand Quote

What mm conical full @Reed Richards ?

[close]

I ride 56mm conical fulls on Thunders, so you know wheelbite and I were not strangers. Threw these on the other day, problem solved. Pop is not dulled like you get with traditional risers.

Edit: I ride 149's and my risers did not fit exactly flush with the baseplate. Anybody else notice this?

Mine are not perfectly flush either

[Reed Richards]

What mm conical full @Reed Richards ?

54mm, they're the ember ones that came out in the summer.

[jay_nev]

Wait so these don’t fit flush? Thunders don’t match up to thunder baseplate and venture the same? Anyone have a pic to show?

[pizzafliptofakie]

My Thunder risers stick out by a literal couple of hairs. If it were any smaller I would consider that a fatal design flaw.

[Frank and Fred]

Just checked. My Thunder Risers line up perfectly with Thunder 151s with Team (cast) plates. No photo but the nose and tail sit flush. Riser does stick out toward center but that's not a problem at all.

[jay_nev]

My Thunder risers stick out by a literal couple of hairs. If it were any smaller I would consider that a fatal design flaw.

didn’t think so! Might grab a set once everything thaws and it’s time to skate again

[art hellman]

in case anyone is wondering--the misc/other ones fit perfect on Indys

[Dan_562]

Wondering if you can split the plies and turn these into a 1 and/or 2-ply option......

[stets]

Wondering if you can split the plies and turn these into a 1 and/or 2-ply option......

Interesting idea... I might have to try that.

But I'm a little worried, since usually skateboard plies are cross-laminated, with odd numbers of plies to make it strong and have the length-oriented grain plies on top and bottom. Having an exposed width-oriented grain ply, in a 2 ply situation, might make it weaker

[Dan_562]

Expand Quote

Wondering if you can split the plies and turn these into a 1 and/or 2-ply option......

[close]

Interesting idea... I might have to try that.

But I'm a little worried, since usually skateboard plies are cross-laminated, with odd numbers of plies to make it strong and have the length-oriented grain plies on top and bottom. Having an exposed width-oriented grain ply, in a 2 ply situation, might make it weaker

You get a chance to try it?  ...It is just a riser in this case, so not like you really need the strength you would if it were a deck. I feel like the height of the stock riser is just a bit much for me. I just might have to get a set and try it out.

[aythembones]

Ace AF1 on Universal : Sticks out a bit towards the nose/tale with substantial truck overhang toward the rails.





Indy (forged baseplate) on Universal : Fits great with just a little bit of the riser showing all around the baseplate. They should have named the Universal "Indy".





Thunder (forged baseplate) on Thunder (duh) : Fits great with just a small portion sticking out from the baseplate. Much less sticking out than with the official Thunder plastic risers. I notice the most difference on Thunders with these risers. Helps get a deeper more carvy turn (Riptide's help that too) while avoiding instant wheelbite and alleviating that dead feeling from plastic risers.







No idea how long they will last but I hope they keep making these as they are so much better feeling than plastic. Also, I have several sets and noticed that since they're hand-made with wood there's a few small small inconsistencies. Some corners are slightly rounder than others, one side may stick out a fraction more than other etc. Overall though they're pretty uniform in fit, no drastic issues like mis-drilled holes, delamination or anything like that. 

In regard to the person asking if they can be separated. I do not see a way to do that without destroying them. They're glued and pressed just like a deck, not made to ever come apart.

[CaderSk8r]

On my 4th or 5th deck using the same thunder risers on 149s and they are still holding up great. I didn’t clear coat them or anything either.

[Frank and Fred]

I shaved off a few mm of the Venture version and sanded them clean to fit my Ace. They don't feel any different to the usual 1/8"plastic risers i usually use but it is nice the use less plastic. They might be the tiniest bit higher.

[Frank and Fred]

QC on wooden risers? Haha...
Oh man.

I found they all fit the trucks they were advertised for really well. If you want to avoid plastic they are a great option. They work just as well. Can't say they 'feel' any different but I dig 'em and would recommend them.

[Getgreens]

considering you can sand or "perfect" the imperfections yourself, thats pretty nice. Makes me wonder how they work when stacked ontop of each other to give some "idealistic" board feel in a 1/4" orientation.

The board feel mattered to me the most, got two pairs of ventures for two one on 8.38 159s and 8.8 shaped.

At first this wasnt much of an aspect of consideration to me. Riding my typical 99a SFW conical full wheel on 52 and 54mm.

Then i got another popsicle to run the 159 indys i normally ride on, so i could take them off the 8.8 to try/run the 6.1s on it.
Got 56mm conical full wheels bc of that epic contact patch. But 101a F4. The hardness difference between the F4 101a and the classic 99a blend was pretty nutty, the way they felt riding over the same corners/carves, or hip transfers/transitions the bumps how much speed you could feel/manipulate on 101a.

Imo the wood risers are way better than bones in that regard. I never noticed the surface/ and mild changes/bumps in transition especially mid carve or landing transfers. until i rode 101a which i was holding out on for the longest time bc a lot of my local parks have slick crete. I mean 101a just makes riding on the sidewalk/street that much more of a raw experience. The wood risers help retain this overall feeling especially when trying to ollie speed bumps etc or curb cuts. You feel more board, when i was on the plastic risers i felt my bushings a lot more. The wood risers make your setup feel more complete.

If you enjoy skating really fast and notice slight differences in your setup like wheel size/height/truck hanger height etc.....
main reason i think these "came out" of dlx or etc...is probably from the majority of riders swapping from standards to forged base plates and the height variation to them/their skating paired with trying to adapt bigger wheels or looser kingpin nuts... the only way to really replicate the pop/turn angles of standards be it indy/venture/thunder vs forged baseplate height..would be risers from wheelbite/big wheel pairings to just overall turn-ability and bushing combinations.

6.1 kader standards with bones hard flat top washer, real venture risers on 8.38 54mm SFW 99a conical full.
6.1 standards stock bushings(yellow) 8.8 real venture risers 56mm 101 conical full.
159 stage x standards 52mm 99a SFW Soon to be 57mm radial fulls on risers...with an 8.38 twin tail.

the 58mm 95a natas Oj re-issues, and the 57mm radial full and conical full sizes have me interested in gluing/bonding two of these 1/8th inch wood risers into home made 1/4th inch bound risers then just sand them down to a perfect consistent pair.

[Frank and Fred]

Just stack them. I don't think you need to glue them. But let us know how it goes.