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I don’t think this brand should aim for the luxury market; the shoes just don’t have that luxury feel, and I think that market is foreign to Jamie as well. It seems to me that he wants to do something more authentic with this brand.
I started skating about 20 years ago, and back then, there wasn’t an older demographic like there is now. Skate products could only be sold to the younger crowd. Those who stopped skating completely lost their connection and interest in skateboarding.
Now, there’s an older generation that has grown up and no longer skates actively, but they’re still interested in the skateboarding world: they collect shoes and boards, attend events and contests, and buy art books. This is something seen in other areas too—like sneakerheads, vinyl collectors, or NES game collectors, etc. I think this group is growing, and it’s no longer embarrassing for a 40+-year-old to tell another adult at a garden party, “Look, I don’t care about soccer, I’m into skateboarding.” This group has purchasing power, but they have their own specific preferences, and I see that Jamie is trying to target them. He’s aiming to create classic, clean, understated, high-quality, and not-too-expensive products in relatively limited quantities, and just as important, products that are collectible. The fact that he did his first collaboration with Ed really reinforces this, because Ed’s name resonates with this crowd (too). He’s from the same era as Jamie, and if I remember correctly, only Ed’s shoes will come with dust bags (for collectors), and there will be limited-edition boards as well. It’s likely that Jamie is drawing heavily on his Garage Days experience.
As for the boutiques: for a startup brand that isn’t well-known yet, and whose future depends greatly on how many products they can sell from the first drop, it’s completely understandable. Since we’re talking about a brand that’s partly lifestyle-focused, it fits well into the product range of these boutiques. This could also be a test to gauge which demographic responds best to the brand, and in the future, they can shift focus accordingly.
problem is that we have brands that already are off the ground and are selling almost the exact same product as War Saw. Hours and LRAB have distribution and contracts with retailers, while offering the exact same style of shoe. This isn't something that anyone was asking for nor something that fills a marketplace need. Also, in my experience, the oldheads want their stuff to be accurate to what they grew up with. All three of those identified collector groups attach nostalgia to their consumer habits, but rarely are you going find a sneakerhead buying the newest Lebron model. JT and Ed are nice guys, but they're far from enough to push a footwear company into relevancy. Luxury boutiques are NOT an option.
I think Last Resort is already well-established in the market, but I wouldn't compare these two brands because they offer completely different things, with different messages and target audiences.
Hours is closer to War Saw (even in appearance), but why can't there be two similar brands in the market? It's normal for companies to compete (so no one gets too comfortable in their position), and this forces them to offer something more or better, or to give back more to the community, for example, they support certain events, competitions, artists (like Ed), or by being more sustainable and transparent.
By the way, Hours’ models resemble dress shoes (loafers) more, while War Saw’s models seem more casual to me. It’s possible that the models of these two brands will differ even more in the future. Jamie mentioned something about wanting to create a model inspired by hiking shoes. The current models were a safe choice for him to start with. We'll see. I also agree that a luxury boutique isn't an option, that's more HRS’s territory.
What people collect and what they wear are two completely different things. People who collect decks and old shoes don’t necessarily wear Osiris D3s to work (as you can’t spot NES collectors on the street because they don’t wear Mario hats).
Last Resort and Hours offer the exact same hi top vulc, it's literally the same shoe that Warsaw is offering. Warsaw doesn't have any "messaging", it's just JT on a podcast for two and a half hours and a handful of Instagram posts. There isn't even a pro team. I fail to see how any of these three brands appeal to OG skate collectors other than he brought Ed Templeton in for a collab.
If you don’t see the differences, maybe this brand simply isn’t for you. Yes, all three brands have hi-top models that look similar from afar. But does that mean I have to buy Last Resort? What if I don’t like the logo, the bard identity, or the graphics of that brand? I know they make great products, but if I don’t feel connected to the brand, do I have no choice? Should I buy their shoes? In the skate shoe market, many brands have had, still have, and will have nearly identical shoes. Let’s take an example: Slip-ons. How many brands make the same model, but they don’t target the same audience?
JT mentioned that they will also release limited-edition decks (with Ed’s graphics), clearly aiming at those collectors too (you buy a deck because you collect it, and then maybe you buy a pair of shoes, a shirt, etc.). I think you misunderstood the group I was describing that Jamie is targeting, and focused only on the 'collector.' This group is willing to pay more for a product that is clean, limited, high-quality, not over-branded, and connected to skateboarding, with perhaps something extra. These are the people who start spending on items that are collectible or unique, representing a special value. They seek added value, they love connecting stories and deeper, more complex meanings to their belongings, whether it’s an expensive knife with scales made from special material, or a limited edition deck whose graphics (or the artist) have special significance for them. In other words, what’s important is: the STORY behind the product.
Jamie recognized this, which is why he talked so thoroughly about the products and brand on The Nine Club. This is why he went into detail about the design choices: the sound of the name, its origin, symmetry, the limited color palette referencing the name (Eastern Europe, gray tones). It all comes together into a big concept, a story (The 'X' stitching, which is the intersection of the two arms of the W characters). He doesn’t just throw a product at you, saying: 'Here’s another shoe, buy it!' Instead, he adds a story, giving even a product with an average look some extra value and depth (like with the ring), which may partly be marketing, but maybe it will work. This approach is typically seen in collaboration products, which often have videos and ads showing the inspiration, the significance of the colors, and the symbols used. However, Jamie applied this vision and approach to his entire brand, giving everything a meaning, a story.
People love talking about their stuff: how much they paid for it, how few were made, what it’s made of, why it’s special, what it symbolizes, what the colors refer to, and so on. In my opinion, this is a well-thought-out brand and strategy, from the name to the target audience. As a graphic designer and art director, I tip my hat. Whether there is demand for this, we’ll see. The concept, to me, is clear and coherent.
With a brand like this, the focus isn’t on how many skateboarders it sponsors or who they are, because it doesn’t try to create that (false) image or identify itself that way (lifestyle). So, it’s pointless to talk about the lack of a pro team. While with Last Resort, this was indeed crucial for credibility (as a skate shoe brand), here it’s secondary (as is the usage). I’ve written about this before: in some form, there may be 'sponsored' individuals, but I’d rather call them Ambassadors, and they’re more icons than active skaters (like Danny Garcia). Perhaps we’ll get some info on this at the launch event.