Spitfire formula four

[Frank and Fred]

What’s your process for taking the graphics off? Sorry if it’s been posted already

-Put two bearings in each wheel
-Mount to trucks, graphics facing in
-find curb or coping
-skate for an hour or two
-graphics will be gone (mostly)

[Mbrimson88]

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What’s your process for taking the graphics off? Sorry if it’s been posted already

[close]

-Put two bearings in each wheel
-Mount to trucks, graphics facing in
-find curb or coping
-skate for an hour or two
-graphics will be gone (mostly)

Ha yeah that usually works.


I know some people use a razor blade and scrape them off too, which is usually not too painful, but gets the paint off fairly well.

The two other options I usually go with are as follows:

1. The natural / nothing else needed way - graphics out and on medium grade concrete hold the board on an angle so the wheels are all that is on the ground and move the board back left and right but pull towards you a bit, which drags the face of the wheels in such a way that it takes the graphic straight off - best on Classic and Classic Full wheels more than anything that has the graphic sitting inside the line, such as Conical Full or OG Classics.

2. The angle grinder - graphics out, wheels on board and just run the grinder lightly on the surface of the wheel, which will take as much of the graphic straight off with minimal fuss, but can also wear in bearings nicely too, or really get the lube right in old bearings well if you have just cleaned them.


This post, last couple of pics from angle grinding - should be able to view on here even with out an instagram account:

[thanksgiving]

What’s your process for taking the graphics off? Sorry if it’s been posted already

not op but i just sanded them off of my f4 og classics with a grip scrap. tried nail polish remover but it did nothing. the urethane might be stained a little bit from the graphic, hard to tell though as i had 55s so it was yellow.

@mbrimson88 did a bit of a cleaner job though. looks so clean.

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

What’s your process for taking the graphics off? Sorry if it’s been posted already

[close]

not op but i just sanded them off of my f4 og classics with a grip scrap. tried nail polish remover but it did nothing. the urethane might be stained a little bit from the graphic, hard to tell though as i had 55s so it was yellow.

@Mbrimson88 did a bit of a cleaner job though. looks so clean.

Now I am used to it, the little Ryobi angle grinder is so handy for lots of things, but I know a lot of people look at me in horror when I get it out to "fix their board" be it to reshape, round off or take graphics off the wheels, rounding down the kingpins or cutting busted nuts off, or even tidying up really chipped edges or ends of decks, or cutting wheel wells in boards too.  It has so many good uses.

For anyone wanting to try it, go for some old parts first just to get used to it, as I know some people have thought it looked easy and then messed up stuff quite quickly by doing it wrong.

The disc should spin beside the wheel, so when it touches, the wheel will also spin with it.

For other things, go easy and don't apply too much pressure.  The heat can cook and melt bushings when cutting kingpins or kingpin nuts or you can burn right into decks and start a fire if you are not careful.

[Ourladyoftheflowers]

Wanted to give an update. Once the bearing were set in my og classics correctly they haven’t come out of the seat. Also spitfire got back to me and are sending another set of kaders. Will not be skating the replacement wheels till these wear out but I’m hoping there won’t be any issues. Spitfires still the best wheels I’ve ever skated

[unregisteredhypercam2]

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What’s your process for taking the graphics off? Sorry if it’s been posted already

[close]

not op but i just sanded them off of my f4 og classics with a grip scrap. tried nail polish remover but it did nothing. the urethane might be stained a little bit from the graphic, hard to tell though as i had 55s so it was yellow.

@Mbrimson88 did a bit of a cleaner job though. looks so clean.

[close]

Now I am used to it, the little Ryobi angle grinder is so handy for lots of things, but I know a lot of people look at me in horror when I get it out to "fix their board" be it to reshape, round off or take graphics off the wheels, rounding down the kingpins or cutting busted nuts off, or even tidying up really chipped edges or ends of decks, or cutting wheel wells in boards too.  It has so many good uses.

For anyone wanting to try it, go for some old parts first just to get used to it, as I know some people have thought it looked easy and then messed up stuff quite quickly by doing it wrong.

The disc should spin beside the wheel, so when it touches, the wheel will also spin with it.

For other things, go easy and don't apply too much pressure.  The heat can cook and melt bushings when cutting kingpins or kingpin nuts or you can burn right into decks and start a fire if you are not careful.

wouldnt be simpler for anyone who doesnt need to own this tool to use something like acetone to wipe the graphic off

[Solex]

wouldnt be simpler for anyone who doesnt need to own this tool to use something like acetone to wipe the graphic off

Always be careful with acetone + plastic'ish stuffs. Sometimes it's OK, often...it's not.

[listentoaheartbeat]

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wouldnt be simpler for anyone who doesnt need to own this tool to use something like acetone to wipe the graphic off

[close]

Always be careful with acetone + plastic'ish stuffs. Sometimes it's OK, often...it's not.

Alcohol (IPA) + scrubbing sponge removes wheel graphics safely. Takes some scrubbing but works. Cannot have graphics facing outward so I need to apply this treatment to Classics that have label prints on the otherwise blank side.

[Solex]

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wouldnt be simpler for anyone who doesnt need to own this tool to use something like acetone to wipe the graphic off

[close]

Always be careful with acetone + plastic'ish stuffs. Sometimes it's OK, often...it's not.

[close]

Alcohol (IPA) + scrubbing sponge removes wheel graphics safely. Takes some scrubbing but works. Cannot have graphics facing outward so I need to apply this treatment to Classics that have label prints on the otherwise blank side.

Yeah, and I think scrubbing sponge alone should work about as well.

[unregisteredhypercam2]

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wouldnt be simpler for anyone who doesnt need to own this tool to use something like acetone to wipe the graphic off

[close]

Always be careful with acetone + plastic'ish stuffs. Sometimes it's OK, often...it's not.

i was thinking more along the lines of nail polish remover with a cotton ball which isnt just straight acetone

[logjammin]

If you like spitfires but hate wheel graphics, buy NFG's you can just scrape the minimal graphic off with your finger nail

[manysnakes]

If you like spitfires but hate wheel graphics, buy NFG's you can just scrape the minimal graphic off with your finger nail

Or wait like two sessions

[braksabbath]

I dig wheel graphics. I rotate them to slow down the coning and don't hate it when in a graphics out phase. I got a set of the Burnside wheels that'll probably stay up as a wallhanger

[CullTheKarens]

A nicely graphic'd wheel is the tits.

Just bought a set of wheels with sick graphics just to put on the shelf and look at.

[Mbrimson88]

A nicely graphic'd wheel is the tits.

Just bought a set of wheels with sick graphics just to put on the shelf and look at.

I feel like almost too many sets of wheels have ended up in that category over the years.

Bought the right size, shape, etc but with specific graphics, some ended up in places to look at and never actually set up.

Then bought more in the generic graphic options, so I don't need to skate these ones at all.


Funny how that happens.

[rocklobster]

A nicely graphic'd wheel is the tits.

Just bought a set of wheels with sick graphics just to put on the shelf and look at.

I liked when Spitfire did 3 wheels of 1 color and 1 wheel of a different one, looks really rad when filming.

[FuzzGNU]

I'm riding some Radial Fulls for the first time. Definitely the biggest wheel I've ever skated. Still getting used to the whole setup, so I can't really speak to the wheels in particular yet.

I'm realizing that even though I initially wasn't a huge fan of the 97a I was riding, it's hard to go back up to 99a with this Midwest crust. Brutal out here.

It will be hard to determine what is Conical Full vs. Radial Full and what is 97a vs. 99a. Especially with the Conical Fulls having started at 54 and are now 50-52, while the Radial Fulls are 56. However, no complaints yet except for my brand new Aces are very squirrelly, so all 4 of my wheels have wheelbit already on my first session.

Once I wear the trucks in, I'll tighten them up a bit and report back on the wheels.

Anyone have any strong opinions on wheel shape? Conical vs. radial vs. straight edge vs. classic?

[CannerSpaghetti]

I'm riding some Radial Fulls for the first time. Definitely the biggest wheel I've ever skated. Still getting used to the whole setup, so I can't really speak to the wheels in particular yet.

I'm realizing that even though I initially wasn't a huge fan of the 97a I was riding, it's hard to go back up to 99a with this Midwest crust. Brutal out here.

It will be hard to determine what is Conical Full vs. Radial Full and what is 97a vs. 99a. Especially with the Conical Fulls having started at 54 and are now 50-52, while the Radial Fulls are 56. However, no complaints yet except for my brand new Aces are very squirrelly, so all 4 of my wheels have wheelbit already on my first session.

Once I wear the trucks in, I'll tighten them up a bit and report back on the wheels.

Anyone have any strong opinions on wheel shape? Conical vs. radial vs. straight edge vs. classic?

Radial is the perfect blend of all wheel shapes. And as a broke lad right now I appreciate that they get more square as they wear down to help with lock. 56mm or larger classics also kind of act like radials for me.

[Ok]

Expand Quote

I'm riding some Radial Fulls for the first time. Definitely the biggest wheel I've ever skated. Still getting used to the whole setup, so I can't really speak to the wheels in particular yet.

I'm realizing that even though I initially wasn't a huge fan of the 97a I was riding, it's hard to go back up to 99a with this Midwest crust. Brutal out here.

It will be hard to determine what is Conical Full vs. Radial Full and what is 97a vs. 99a. Especially with the Conical Fulls having started at 54 and are now 50-52, while the Radial Fulls are 56. However, no complaints yet except for my brand new Aces are very squirrelly, so all 4 of my wheels have wheelbit already on my first session.

Once I wear the trucks in, I'll tighten them up a bit and report back on the wheels.

Anyone have any strong opinions on wheel shape? Conical vs. radial vs. straight edge vs. classic?

[close]

Radial is the perfect blend of all wheel shapes. And as a broke lad right now I appreciate that they get more square as they wear down to help with lock. 56mm or larger classics also kind of act like radials for me.

I got some big radials and now I’m wondering how long till I can wear down 3 mm. Fuck these things make me tired just looking at them

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

I'm riding some Radial Fulls for the first time. Definitely the biggest wheel I've ever skated. Still getting used to the whole setup, so I can't really speak to the wheels in particular yet.

I'm realizing that even though I initially wasn't a huge fan of the 97a I was riding, it's hard to go back up to 99a with this Midwest crust. Brutal out here.

It will be hard to determine what is Conical Full vs. Radial Full and what is 97a vs. 99a. Especially with the Conical Fulls having started at 54 and are now 50-52, while the Radial Fulls are 56. However, no complaints yet except for my brand new Aces are very squirrelly, so all 4 of my wheels have wheelbit already on my first session.

Once I wear the trucks in, I'll tighten them up a bit and report back on the wheels.

Anyone have any strong opinions on wheel shape? Conical vs. radial vs. straight edge vs. classic?

[close]

Radial is the perfect blend of all wheel shapes. And as a broke lad right now I appreciate that they get more square as they wear down to help with lock. 56mm or larger classics also kind of act like radials for me.

I definitely enjoy the Classic wheels in larger sizes once they wear down a few mm, as you said 56 down to between 54 to 52 mm is about perfect I think, but I do like wider wheels in general with roundish edges.

[listentoaheartbeat]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

I'm riding some Radial Fulls for the first time. Definitely the biggest wheel I've ever skated. Still getting used to the whole setup, so I can't really speak to the wheels in particular yet.

I'm realizing that even though I initially wasn't a huge fan of the 97a I was riding, it's hard to go back up to 99a with this Midwest crust. Brutal out here.

It will be hard to determine what is Conical Full vs. Radial Full and what is 97a vs. 99a. Especially with the Conical Fulls having started at 54 and are now 50-52, while the Radial Fulls are 56. However, no complaints yet except for my brand new Aces are very squirrelly, so all 4 of my wheels have wheelbit already on my first session.

Once I wear the trucks in, I'll tighten them up a bit and report back on the wheels.

Anyone have any strong opinions on wheel shape? Conical vs. radial vs. straight edge vs. classic?

[close]

Radial is the perfect blend of all wheel shapes. And as a broke lad right now I appreciate that they get more square as they wear down to help with lock. 56mm or larger classics also kind of act like radials for me.

[close]

I definitely enjoy the Classic wheels in larger sizes once they wear down a few mm, as you said 56 down to between 54 to 52 mm is about perfect I think, but I do like wider wheels in general with roundish edges.

My sweetspot for wheel size is too small for this. I want my wheels to be 51 - 53 mm. So wearing them down from 56 mm will take longer than I can actually ride them at my preferred size. Just ditched a set of 52 mm Classics that were down to just under 50 mm in no time. Put on 52 mm Classic Fulls that I don't expect to last for much longer. So I will try 54 mm next to get a bit more out of one set. I used to be more comfy on broken in setups but since last year's setup deep dive I have started to appreciate fresh setups. Shit is getting expensive.

[PolarJames]

I've currently got Spitfire formula 4 conical full 99a. I was wondering for my next set of wheels are the 101a significantly slidier? Thanks

[braksabbath]

Turns out the 52mm (second hand 54mm) conical fulls I been riding are 101s and not 99s like I thought. They’ve been perfect on the big mini at the indoor, way faster than 97a with predictable slides. Maybe it’s a fluke set that happen to grip more than the an average 101 but they can mash without ice skating

[Mbrimson88]

The weirdest thing to me is that the Formula Four 101s can sometimes be more slick with some sets and sometimes be more grippy with other sets than the standard 99s, which seem to always have the same feeling from set to set, regardless of size, shape and how old they are - all factors which definitely make a difference with other wheels I have owned over the years.

Other people have said this too.


If anything, it might be that once you get into a slide, the 101s can sometimes slide further and longer than the 99s, but the most recent set I got from someone just didn't want to slide much at all, so they ended up on the "slippery surface board" and had more grip than the new 97s I had just put on.

Either way, they are great wheels and I am not about to change any time soon, but I prefer the 99s over the 101s and have had the 97s for rough ground or when a bit of extra grip is needed.

[Mbrimson88]

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I'm riding some Radial Fulls for the first time. Definitely the biggest wheel I've ever skated. Still getting used to the whole setup, so I can't really speak to the wheels in particular yet.

I'm realizing that even though I initially wasn't a huge fan of the 97a I was riding, it's hard to go back up to 99a with this Midwest crust. Brutal out here.

It will be hard to determine what is Conical Full vs. Radial Full and what is 97a vs. 99a. Especially with the Conical Fulls having started at 54 and are now 50-52, while the Radial Fulls are 56. However, no complaints yet except for my brand new Aces are very squirrelly, so all 4 of my wheels have wheelbit already on my first session.

Once I wear the trucks in, I'll tighten them up a bit and report back on the wheels.

Anyone have any strong opinions on wheel shape? Conical vs. radial vs. straight edge vs. classic?

[close]

Radial is the perfect blend of all wheel shapes. And as a broke lad right now I appreciate that they get more square as they wear down to help with lock. 56mm or larger classics also kind of act like radials for me.

[close]

I definitely enjoy the Classic wheels in larger sizes once they wear down a few mm, as you said 56 down to between 54 to 52 mm is about perfect I think, but I do like wider wheels in general with roundish edges.

[close]

My sweetspot for wheel size is too small for this. I want my wheels to be 51 - 53 mm. So wearing them down from 56 mm will take longer than I can actually ride them at my preferred size. Just ditched a set of 52 mm Classics that were down to just under 50 mm in no time. Put on 52 mm Classic Fulls that I don't expect to last for much longer. So I will try 54 mm next to get a bit more out of one set. I used to be more comfy on broken in setups but since last year's setup deep dive I have started to appreciate fresh setups. Shit is getting expensive.

I have some friends who skate bigger wheels and then offer a trade back when they are smaller so that helps.

Besides that, I had a couple of boards, much the same only one had bigger wheels (from new for go fast and bigger stuff) and the other had the same wheel only worn down smaller (more for tech stuff) so that worked fairly well.

Remembering when I was growing up with not much cash or skate product and having one board and hating the first month or more with new wheels that I could never do much tech stuff on but they would last ages and then by the time they were almost done, they were so small and so easy to do more tech stuff, then new wheels again and the cycle continued.

I guess it is finding the balance there for wheel size and making the most of what you have, which for me includes finding anything on sale and buying more to stock up to get me through.

[FuzzGNU]

It's worth pointing out to you guys that wider wheels wear down more slowly. Classics are going to wear down a lot quicker than Radial/Conical Fulls. Also, softer wheels wear down quicker as well.

If I were you guys I would either grab some wide 101a F4s or some wide 103a STF Bones V4 (Radial) or V6 (Conical).

[LebowskisRug]

Classic Fulls are a worn 54/56 (for 52mm/54mm respectively) from the get go if you want to skip that process

[fakiefs180]

Classic Fulls are a worn 54/56 (for 52mm/54mm respectively) from the get go if you want to skip that process

Yeah that is true. I measured my old 54 classics with some new 52 classic fulls. They are almost identical. Riding surface on the classic fulls is just 1 mm wider.

I've been looking at the OG classics in 53mm for these crusty East Berlin streets here. What is different about them compared to classics? I mean from a riding point. Will I lose my remaining 10 flips because of a wider wheel? I had Radial slims a long time ago and those were nice. I am just not sure if wider or narrower wheels are better for tailslides for example.

Thanks in advance pals and keep that PMA.

[LebowskisRug]

Classic Fulls are very wide. Basically Conical Full with a rounder edge.

[Damoforce]

Has anyone tried the lil smokes? 50-51mm? They look like a different compond to say the F4s?

Am I right in saying that?

I would love a 51mm f4 Tablet