VX1000 General Discussion (gear/set-ups, filming/editing, tips/advice, etc.)

[Thomas]

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I would like to make my mk1 screw mount. I took off the bayo ring but can't find a step up ring deep enough to screw on the fisheye.

Anybody has done this before and could help me finding the good ring ?

Thanks

[close]

I've done this with a MK2 a long time ago by getting a handful of step up rings/spacers to get through the depth of the screw under the bayo mount, something like 72mm-82mm step up, 82mm spacer, 82-72mm step down, then 72-52mm step down to fit on the camera.

The same type of thing should work on a MK1 but I'm almost positive that the thread size is slightly larger than the MK2's - I seem to remember someone a long time ago doing this with a 74mm step up ring. Hope it works out for you!

This.
I also made it on a MK2 and you have to play with step-up step-down rings to be deep enough.

[bataaard]

thanks guys ! using a step up 74mm ring did not work.

but from what i see , i should start with a step down ring.
I will keep you in touch when i receive it.

[suckmadeck]

I just posted a video on YouTube where I test some video enhancing A.I on some VX1000 footage if anyone is interested!

[pj chad]

I just posted a video on YouTube where I test some video enhancing A.I on some VX1000 footage if anyone is interested!

this is really cool, i figured it was only a matter of time before we started seeing something like this.

my only question is - does this differ/how much does this differ from just using FCPX to import the 720x480 SD footage into a 1920x1080 30p/60p HD timeline? when i've done this in the past, i haven't had to wait the hours that Topaz takes - it's really just waiting 1-3 minutes for exporting. i wonder if you'd be able to tell a difference when comparing the FCPX upscaled HD footage vs the Topaz AI HD footage of the same clip.

[suckmadeck]

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I just posted a video on YouTube where I test some video enhancing A.I on some VX1000 footage if anyone is interested!

[close]

this is really cool, i figured it was only a matter of time before we started seeing something like this.

my only question is - does this differ/how much does this differ from just using FCPX to import the 720x480 SD footage into a 1920x1080 30p/60p HD timeline? when i've done this in the past, i haven't had to wait the hours that Topaz takes - it's really just waiting 1-3 minutes for exporting. i wonder if you'd be able to tell a difference when comparing the FCPX upscaled HD footage vs the Topaz AI HD footage of the same clip.

From what I've seen, doing HD to 4k doesn't do much, in fact you can create the same effect in your editing software! But in my tests you can see a clear improvement when using Topaz. The original DV looks good, but the enhanced looks better imo. I think for now it's still too soon to use this on literally every clip but maybe just chucking one of 2 SD clips into a HD project and it might work out! In a few years time as computers get faster and this software gets better, and hopefully the time it takes is reduced

[pj chad]

i know you mentioned HD to 4K doesn't do much, but what i'm asking about specifically is would there be a notable difference between comparing the following:

720x480 SD footage -> imported into a 1920x1080 HD timeline and then exported
720x480 SD footage -> imported into Topaz AI and exported like you just did in the video

[doyle]

If I'm understanding your question right, that's exactly what we're seeing at the end of the video (normal upresed SD compared to AI enhanced).

[pj chad]

If I'm understanding your question right, that's exactly what we're seeing at the end of the video (normal upresed SD compared to AI enhanced).

it's likely i'm not making myself clear enough, so i apologize in advance. let me try one more time.

the normal uncompressed SD clips in his video, before they are put through Topaz, are 720x576. after they are put through Topaz, they are "enhanced" as well as now upscaled to HD as 1920x1080.

what i typically do with VX clips that go to youtube, is use FCPX to import that raw SD clip into an HD 1920x1080 timeline. this obviously upscales that SD clip into HD, which is then exported.

my question is, if we start off with a single raw SD clip and run that through the Topaz, and take that same raw SD clip and import into FCPX HD timeline as i described above, would we be able to see a difference when comparing the Topaz vs FCPX clip?

at the end of his video, he compares the raw SD vs the result from Topaz, which is HD. obviously, we are going to see an increase in quality. i'd be interested to see if there was a difference between the Topaz clip, and an upscaled HD clip from FCPX.

[Thomas]

What I usually do is work in a timeline with the same settings as my DV clips, then upscale during export to HD.
Will there be a difference if I work in a HD timeline instead ?

[doyle]

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If I'm understanding your question right, that's exactly what we're seeing at the end of the video (normal upresed SD compared to AI enhanced).

[close]

at the end of his video, he compares the raw SD vs the result from Topaz, which is HD. obviously, we are going to see an increase in quality. i'd be interested to see if there was a difference between the Topaz clip, and an upscaled HD clip from FCPX.

The videos at the end with the "Original" title are the upscaled SD clips to HD though. If they weren't, and they were the actual original raw SD files (at original resolution), they wouldn't fill the video frame. Unless I'm still misunderstanding, the comparison at the end of the "Original" vs "Enhanced" videos is "editing software SD upscaled to HD" vs "AI enhanced."

What I usually do is work in a timeline with the same settings as my DV clips, then upscale during export to HD.
Will there be a difference if I work in a HD timeline instead ?

I haven't noticed any difference with these two methods (in Premiere), as long as you export with the same settings it should look the same.

[suckmadeck]

So I put the original clips into my HD timeline, and made them fill the frame, then I had the enhanced ones next to em. Now you mention that it would be interesting to see if the original clip vs. the enhanced one downsampled back to SD resolution. Sorry I didn't make it very clear!

[pj chad]

hoping to get the input of some fellow slap nerds. i searched this thread, and over the years there seems to be some differing opinions on shutter speed for the NSTC vx1000. i'm just learning that the general rule of thumb is to typically double the frame rate - so 29.97 = 1/60.

the below video (although it's not vx1000), says to typically shoot sunny daytime footage at 1/125 for shutter speed in order to find a balance between 1/1000 which is too jumpy, and 1/60 which is a little blurry. is this what everyone typically follows?

if i had planned on exporting a vx1000 edit to 60fps, should i be adjusting the shutter speed to corrleate with that (around 1/250 or 1/500), or should the shutter remain at 1/125 since the true frame rate is 29.97?

lastly, i know some people in this thread have said that f5.6 is the "sweet spot" for aperture on the vx1000. is that mostly because it is directly in the middle between a shallow depth of field vs a deep depth of field?

[suckmadeck]

hoping to get the input of some fellow slap nerds. i searched this thread, and over the years there seems to be some differing opinions on shutter speed for the NSTC vx1000. i'm just learning that the general rule of thumb is to typically double the frame rate - so 29.97 = 1/60.

the below video (although it's not vx1000), says to typically shoot sunny daytime footage at 1/125 for shutter speed in order to find a balance between 1/1000 which is too jumpy, and 1/60 which is a little blurry. is this what everyone typically follows?

if i had planned on exporting a vx1000 edit to 60fps, should i be adjusting the shutter speed to corrleate with that (around 1/250 or 1/500), or should the shutter remain at 1/125 since the true frame rate is 29.97?

lastly, i know some people in this thread have said that f5.6 is the "sweet spot" for aperture on the vx1000. is that mostly because it is directly in the middle between a shallow depth of field vs a deep depth of field?

It depends on what you're looking for. If you want crisp slowmo, I'd say 1/500th shutter speed is what you should use. If you want some blur, but still a decent crispy looking slowmo, I'd say 1/125th shutter speed.

And regarding the f-stop, if you have your camera setup at f1.8, the vignette is going to look soft, and at the higher f-stop it's easier to make focus mistakes. However, at f5.6 the depth of field is so deep that pretty much everything is going to be in focus which can be a plus, or a negative depending on who you ask. 

[Glurmpz]

Leaving the aperture wide open is why so much VX footage looks soft, always set it higher. (yes, 5.6 or higher is great)

[CHONGO]

Leaving the aperture wide open is why so much VX footage looks soft, always set it higher. (yes, 5.6 or higher is great)

exactly. anything below 5.6 gets a little soft.

[doyle]

Expand Quote

hoping to get the input of some fellow slap nerds. i searched this thread, and over the years there seems to be some differing opinions on shutter speed for the NSTC vx1000. i'm just learning that the general rule of thumb is to typically double the frame rate - so 29.97 = 1/60.

the below video (although it's not vx1000), says to typically shoot sunny daytime footage at 1/125 for shutter speed in order to find a balance between 1/1000 which is too jumpy, and 1/60 which is a little blurry. is this what everyone typically follows?

if i had planned on exporting a vx1000 edit to 60fps, should i be adjusting the shutter speed to corrleate with that (around 1/250 or 1/500), or should the shutter remain at 1/125 since the true frame rate is 29.97?

lastly, i know some people in this thread have said that f5.6 is the "sweet spot" for aperture on the vx1000. is that mostly because it is directly in the middle between a shallow depth of field vs a deep depth of field?

[close]

It depends on what you're looking for. If you want crisp slowmo, I'd say 1/500th shutter speed is what you should use. If you want some blur, but still a decent crispy looking slowmo, I'd say 1/125th shutter speed.

And regarding the f-stop, if you have your camera setup at f1.8, the vignette is going to look soft, and at the higher f-stop it's easier to make focus mistakes. However, at f5.6 the depth of field is so deep that pretty much everything is going to be in focus which can be a plus, or a negative depending on who you ask.

This is good advice. The "double the frame rate shutter speed rule" is generally suggested for film/cinema, i.e. use 1/48th shutter speed if you're shooting 24fps and want a classic film look. For skating (SD and VX1000 especially) it really doesn't apply. I personally try not to go below 1/125th unless it's pitch black.

[Thomas]

I still don't really understand why, but there is something with F5.6 and the MKI fisheye that just works well.

[Olympus Mons]

Anyone got a current link for vx1000 batteries for sale online?

[Thomas]

Requesting help from Slap pals.
One of my VX1000 got the classic jammed tape where the tape deck do not go out entirely.

How do I extract the tape, and can I fix this ?
I’m not asking for « send it to Kerry » but for some experiences and instructions to do it myself.
Thanks a lot !

[Kevve]

So I thought that the photo/video board was for stuff about photography and filming until i checked it out. Turs out it wasn't. Is there any active photography/filming thread on Slap? Figured I should ask here before starting one.

[Chatbot]

Requesting help from Slap pals.
One of my VX1000 got the classic jammed tape where the tape deck do not go out entirely.

How do I extract the tape, and can I fix this ?
I’m not asking for « send it to Kerry » but for some experiences and instructions to do it myself.
Thanks a lot !

Do you see any error codes on the screen? Any unusal gear sounds, like grinding or continuing to move without the deck opening? If so there may just be something not aligned right. I bought a vx21k off ebay a few years ago with tape deck "problems" and turns out it was just a clip I had to push with a tooth pick. I didn't have to take anything apart either. I forgot the code my camera was giving at the time so I can't be 100% sure what I said applies to you. Could just be worn out gears.

Maybe just email Kerry and he can probably diagnose the problem over email. Then you can search up/ self repair on your own.

[bataaard]

Requesting help from Slap pals.
One of my VX1000 got the classic jammed tape where the tape deck do not go out entirely.

How do I extract the tape, and can I fix this ?
I’m not asking for « send it to Kerry » but for some experiences and instructions to do it myself.
Thanks a lot !

had the problem once and i managed to open the left shell of the vx. disconnected it, reconnected it without putting the shell back. turn on the camera, and the tape dexk went down. then i put the vx back together and it worked as intended.
i might have been lucky but it's worth a try.

[Thomas]

Expand Quote

Requesting help from Slap pals.
One of my VX1000 got the classic jammed tape where the tape deck do not go out entirely.

How do I extract the tape, and can I fix this ?
I’m not asking for « send it to Kerry » but for some experiences and instructions to do it myself.
Thanks a lot !

[close]

had the problem once and i managed to open the left shell of the vx. disconnected it, reconnected it without putting the shell back. turn on the camera, and the tape dexk went down. then i put the vx back together and it worked as intended.
i might have been lucky but it's worth a try.

Merci Romain !

I just tear the left part down, got rid of the whole the tape band, and I had to remove the tape deck without disconnecting it to have the tape finally out.
I made a few tests and everything works now.

I have another issue with this camera that someone may have had :
Whenever I set my aperture to something lower than F5.6 the image gets blurry. Not out-of-focus blurry, but more of like a foggy effect. This happens with whatever shutter speed.

Any idea ?

[bataaard]

show us an example picture of the fogginess.

does your lens seem clean ?

[Phosphoresence]

Anybody aware of a rough going rate for an MK1 century optic lens?

[Thomas]

show us an example picture of the fogginess.

does your lens seem clean ?

Here is a video showing the defect.
Focus is auto
Shutter speed is auto (well it is not set, so I guess ?)



Edit: auto shutter is OFF in the settings.

[bataaard]

I've never seen that, but i guess if you open the lens and clean it from the inside, there's a good chance to get rid of the fogginess

[doyle]

I had something similar where the whole VAP unit was loose and I only noticed when it starting looking soft at night. If I pushed the whole front end in it would go into focus properly, which was an okay workaround for that day, but I ended up just sending it back to get fixed since I'd just bought it.

Here's what it looked like:

[Thomas]

I had something similar where the whole VAP unit was loose and I only noticed when it starting looking soft at night. If I pushed the whole front end in it would go into focus properly, which was an okay workaround for that day, but I ended up just sending it back to get fixed since I'd just bought it.

This very much looks like the same defect, even if my VAP unit isn't loose.
I will try to open it and whether clean it or check if something might have moved in there.

Thanks !

[BJM]

Anybody aware of a rough going rate for an MK1 century optic lens?

See them going for upwards of $1000 these days on Ig accounts like VX1000MARKET. even saw one on ebay for $2000 lmao