Author Topic: The Indy Thread  (Read 133240 times)

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Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2040 on: March 25, 2024, 05:30:20 AM »
Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.

Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.

I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?



I have a set of 149 standards, newish - guessing less than a year old anyway, but at least one truck, maybe both have axle slip too.

Quite surprising really, as I can't recall the last set of trucks that had any issues, certainly nothing this decade I think.

Maybe these ones hit something hard enough that it shook the axle loose in the hanger or else they were just a little issue, minimal compared to other things, or at least all the other current trucks that have no issues at all like that.


I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

Rick Trapasso

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2041 on: March 25, 2024, 08:39:41 AM »
Expand Quote
Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.

Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.

I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?
[close]



I have a set of 149 standards, newish - guessing less than a year old anyway, but at least one truck, maybe both have axle slip too.

Quite surprising really, as I can't recall the last set of trucks that had any issues, certainly nothing this decade I think.

Maybe these ones hit something hard enough that it shook the axle loose in the hanger or else they were just a little issue, minimal compared to other things, or at least all the other current trucks that have no issues at all like that.

Dang, that's frustrating.

I thought they had pretty much gotten rid of axel slip aside from the odd case here and there.

JM

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2042 on: March 29, 2024, 01:00:56 PM »
I love my indy hollows, as I said, very good compromise for all boards, but once again, big problem with the back truck which unscrews naturally over time.. As you can see in the photo, the bolt of the back truck is much higher and less tight than the nose one.. I had this problem with the original bushings, and it was worse because after a while my truck was no longer even tight and it was like daewon song truck, I even had the truck disassembled by itself during a session.. I even had trouble finding my bolt which landed in the grass.. ;D , that's why I changed to bones bushings, It seemed to me that things were getting better, and I seem to have the same problem starting again..And yet, if I tighten the back truck to the same level as the front truck, it's much tighter than the front.. See what I mean ? Unfortunately, I don't know if my next trucks will be indy , I have never had this kind of problem with other brands.. Is this a defect in your opinion of the kingpin ?

The back truck :



The front truck :



I guess I would look at that and get that kingpin nut down so at least all threads engage, so the top of the nut is at least the same level as the kingpin itself, but that is just me.  I don't like kingpin sticking up above the nut ever, but in some situations the opposite is going to cause more problems and people I know have had to keep stopping to tighten the kingpin nut multiple times every session.

With some bushings or arrangements, people can't get the trucks loose enough with having the kingpin nut down lower, so you either change out the kingpin nut, tighten it down some more or figure out a different way to sort out the trucks.  Maybe even try those Bones bushings without the metal washer until they squash down a bit or loosen up, but even that can sometimes cause more problems.

Might sound a bit blunt, but not meaning to be - just one of those things, but at least that is how I see it.

Good luck with whatever you try.


* On any other normal bushings, you can trim down the top bushing, shave it, cut it, rub it down on grip tape or whatever works to get it down a mm and then you have no issues getting the kingpin nut on all the way.  That is what I have done with a lot of sets of trucks to make things work for lighter people who need more turn, without having to buy new bushings, or to get the kingpin nut down lower and give more kingpin clearance at the same time.

Paging doctor @Mbrimson88

I can’t find it… can you please remind me what size a nut has to be to replace the kingpin nut on an Indy? I have both trucks’ nuts coming lose in sessions. My trucks are tightened to the level of that picture with the lower nut, where the top of nut is flush with top of kingpin. Looks like front truck above. So I have faulty nuts or something. (Brand new 144 hollows from NHS direct as a warranty replacement three months ago)

I really miss Indy’s not having issues like this. Or I’m just wasn’t paying attention as much back in the day.

Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2043 on: March 29, 2024, 03:57:41 PM »


Paging doctor @Mbrimson88

I can’t find it… can you please remind me what size a nut has to be to replace the kingpin nut on an Indy? I have both trucks’ nuts coming lose in sessions. My trucks are tightened to the level of that picture with the lower nut, where the top of nut is flush with top of kingpin. Looks like front truck above. So I have faulty nuts or something. (Brand new 144 hollows from NHS direct as a warranty replacement three months ago)

I really miss Indy’s not having issues like this. Or I’m just wasn’t paying attention as much back in the day.


The skate hardware nuts are as follows:


3/16" UNF 24 for deck bolts

5/16" UNF 24 for axle nuts *

3/8" UND 24 for kingpin nuts *


* The jam or low profile is what we have standard for skateboard trucks - axles and kingpins, not the standard height.  Deck bolts can be the low profile or the standard height, depending on what you prefer.

Also make sure the nuts have nyloc on them too, otherwise they will not stay put.


Good skate shops should always have a spare parts category including nuts (as well as axle washers, bushing washers and other assorted things, but surprisingly quite a lot do not.

Some hardware suppliers have all of these, some have none, but many of the bigger wholesalers have them in boxes of 100 or 200, which are available on ebay as well, so for the average user, one box should last a long, long time, most between about $10 to $20 from what I have seen.


For the boxes I bought to use in the shop, I can go through a box of axle nuts in a few months, but they still last ages, whereas a box of kingpin nuts will last a long time.


I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

JM

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2044 on: March 29, 2024, 04:47:34 PM »
Expand Quote


Paging doctor @Mbrimson88

I can’t find it… can you please remind me what size a nut has to be to replace the kingpin nut on an Indy? I have both trucks’ nuts coming lose in sessions. My trucks are tightened to the level of that picture with the lower nut, where the top of nut is flush with top of kingpin. Looks like front truck above. So I have faulty nuts or something. (Brand new 144 hollows from NHS direct as a warranty replacement three months ago)

I really miss Indy’s not having issues like this. Or I’m just wasn’t paying attention as much back in the day.
[close]


The skate hardware nuts are as follows:


3/16" UNF 24 for deck bolts

5/16" UNF 24 for axle nuts *

3/8" UND 24 for kingpin nuts *


* The jam or low profile is what we have standard for skateboard trucks - axles and kingpins, not the standard height.  Deck bolts can be the low profile or the standard height, depending on what you prefer.

Also make sure the nuts have nyloc on them too, otherwise they will not stay put.


Good skate shops should always have a spare parts category including nuts (as well as axle washers, bushing washers and other assorted things, but surprisingly quite a lot do not.

Some hardware suppliers have all of these, some have none, but many of the bigger wholesalers have them in boxes of 100 or 200, which are available on ebay as well, so for the average user, one box should last a long, long time, most between about $10 to $20 from what I have seen.


For the boxes I bought to use in the shop, I can go through a box of axle nuts in a few months, but they still last ages, whereas a box of kingpin nuts will last a long time.
Annnnnnnnnd bookmarked.

Thank you, Sir.

Plan9Customs

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2045 on: March 29, 2024, 05:52:29 PM »
Expand Quote
I love my indy hollows, as I said, very good compromise for all boards, but once again, big problem with the back truck which unscrews naturally over time.. As you can see in the photo, the bolt of the back truck is much higher and less tight than the nose one.. I had this problem with the original bushings, and it was worse because after a while my truck was no longer even tight and it was like daewon song truck, I even had the truck disassembled by itself during a session.. I even had trouble finding my bolt which landed in the grass.. ;D , that's why I changed to bones bushings, It seemed to me that things were getting better, and I seem to have the same problem starting again..And yet, if I tighten the back truck to the same level as the front truck, it's much tighter than the front.. See what I mean ? Unfortunately, I don't know if my next trucks will be indy , I have never had this kind of problem with other brands.. Is this a defect in your opinion of the kingpin ?

The back truck :



The front truck :


[close]
Expand Quote

I guess I would look at that and get that kingpin nut down so at least all threads engage, so the top of the nut is at least the same level as the kingpin itself, but that is just me.  I don't like kingpin sticking up above the nut ever, but in some situations the opposite is going to cause more problems and people I know have had to keep stopping to tighten the kingpin nut multiple times every session.

With some bushings or arrangements, people can't get the trucks loose enough with having the kingpin nut down lower, so you either change out the kingpin nut, tighten it down some more or figure out a different way to sort out the trucks.  Maybe even try those Bones bushings without the metal washer until they squash down a bit or loosen up, but even that can sometimes cause more problems.

Might sound a bit blunt, but not meaning to be - just one of those things, but at least that is how I see it.

Good luck with whatever you try.


* On any other normal bushings, you can trim down the top bushing, shave it, cut it, rub it down on grip tape or whatever works to get it down a mm and then you have no issues getting the kingpin nut on all the way.  That is what I have done with a lot of sets of trucks to make things work for lighter people who need more turn, without having to buy new bushings, or to get the kingpin nut down lower and give more kingpin clearance at the same time.
[close]

Paging doctor @Mbrimson88

I can’t find it… can you please remind me what size a nut has to be to replace the kingpin nut on an Indy? I have both trucks’ nuts coming lose in sessions. My trucks are tightened to the level of that picture with the lower nut, where the top of nut is flush with top of kingpin. Looks like front truck above. So I have faulty nuts or something. (Brand new 144 hollows from NHS direct as a warranty replacement three months ago)

I really miss Indy’s not having issues like this. Or I’m just wasn’t paying attention as much back in the day.

You may want to shave 1/16” of the top bushing if the new nuts don’t help. A friend had the same issue with his, pretty sure that’s what solved it.

JM

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2046 on: March 29, 2024, 09:48:07 PM »
I swapped some old nuts in hoping they’ll stick. Also using older bushings that are worn in a bit more. Fingers crossed.

And spray painted the bases while the truck was apart :P





Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2047 on: March 30, 2024, 03:40:48 AM »
Expand Quote

[close]

You may want to shave 1/16” of the top bushing if the new nuts don’t help. A friend had the same issue with his, pretty sure that’s what solved it.


Yes, I definitely take a bit off the top bushing, which keeps geometry as it should be with the bottom bushing being the right height, just lower the top a little.

Some people cut it, others machine it down or even just sand it off on griptape (watch those fingers) but any which way, it works well to get the nut down a little lower.





I swapped some old nuts in hoping they’ll stick. Also using older bushings that are worn in a bit more. Fingers crossed.

And spray painted the bases while the truck was apart :P



Ha yeah, fun at its finest!

Also funny as I have blue blaseplates and red baseplates I don't want, some I even sprayed black, but I am sure someone will be keen sooner or later for a bit of a change from plain polished trucks.

I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

Creachteach

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2048 on: March 30, 2024, 04:04:12 PM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote

[close]

You may want to shave 1/16” of the top bushing if the new nuts don’t help. A friend had the same issue with his, pretty sure that’s what solved it.
[close]


Yes, I definitely take a bit off the top bushing, which keeps geometry as it should be with the bottom bushing being the right height, just lower the top a little.

Some people cut it, others machine it down or even just sand it off on griptape (watch those fingers) but any which way, it works well to get the nut down a little lower.





Expand Quote
I swapped some old nuts in hoping they’ll stick. Also using older bushings that are worn in a bit more. Fingers crossed.

And spray painted the bases while the truck was apart :P

[close]


Ha yeah, fun at its finest!

Also funny as I have blue blaseplates and red baseplates I don't want, some I even sprayed black, but I am sure someone will be keen sooner or later for a bit of a change from plain polished trucks.

Speaking of coloured baseplates, how would one go about removing the anodized finish on my forged baseplates?

I have the green Tony Hawk ones, but the green doesn’t go too well with every color deck.

Did look hella fresh on my Creature though.


Im too dumb to figure out how to make this drawing my profile pic.


Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2049 on: March 30, 2024, 04:35:23 PM »


Speaking of coloured baseplates, how would one go about removing the anodized finish on my forged baseplates?

I have the green Tony Hawk ones, but the green doesn’t go too well with every color deck.

Did look hella fresh on my Creature though.



I think you might be stuck wtih that colour - compared to starting out plain metal or even just simply painted, anodized metal takes a whole lot longer to try to get that coloured layer off.  You might be better just spray painting over them, than trying to get them back to silver.

Painting them might not work quite so well either, but it is easier than anything else.


People have used citri strip to remove the paint from other trucks really well, but you would have to check with whoever / hardware shop or manufacturer to see if that would take the anodized coating off.


Google:

What is the process of anodizing?
Anodising is an electrolytic process for producing thick oxide coatings, usually on aluminium and its alloys. The oxide layer is typically 5 to 25 μm in thickness and is used to give improved surface resistance to wear and corrosion, or as a decorative layer.


I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

JM

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2050 on: March 30, 2024, 04:40:41 PM »
I swapped in old bushings and old forged baseplate to the current direct from NHS 144 hollows from three months ago.

 The bushings were from a pair of titanium trucks from three years ago and the forged baseplates from those too: have made these current hollows hangar turn more like Indy’s I live and used to.

The bushings and baseplate from the 144 Hollows I got direct from NHS three ish months ago, were all creaky and hard. They went through the soft initial stage, and then tightened up to where the are now.

It’s puzzling, but whatever… got some normal performing Indy’s now.

Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2051 on: March 30, 2024, 04:55:13 PM »
I swapped in old bushings and old forged baseplate to the current direct from NHS 144 hollows from three months ago.

 The bushings were from a pair of titanium trucks from three years ago and the forged baseplates from those too: have made these current hollows hangar turn more like Indy’s I live and used to.

The bushings and baseplate from the 144 Hollows I got direct from NHS three ish months ago, were all creaky and hard. They went through the soft initial stage, and then tightened up to where the are now.

It’s puzzling, but whatever… got some normal performing Indy’s now.


Yeah it is a funny one, some bushings and parts just work really well together, others not so well.

Been mixing and matching with a few setups, getting the 8.75 board dialled in and tried hollow hangers on the standard plates, which does work well, but I changed in a few sets of bushings, cause no matter what I tried, something was squeaking, then something else was creaking.

Checking and cleaning bushings, rubbing down all surfaces, wax some surfaces when things felt stiff, which then turned into a feeling like I had no bushings at all for a minute - thinking "What have I done" then cleaned them off, creaking returned, tried something else, gave up, left the board for a day or two, came back, skated it with no noise at all, next day creaking again...

Funny old thing, but I guess some bushings do just have different properties.  Even some of these ones I have are so much darker in colour, some very cloudy or almost murky orange, compared to the semi translucent orange of brand new ones.

Were all the ones you used the newer ones with rings on the inside of them, or older ones with the flat poured bubble look to the face of them?

I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

JM

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2052 on: March 30, 2024, 05:49:01 PM »
Expand Quote
I swapped in old bushings and old forged baseplate to the current direct from NHS 144 hollows from three months ago.

 The bushings were from a pair of titanium trucks from three years ago and the forged baseplates from those too: have made these current hollows hangar turn more like Indy’s I live and used to.

The bushings and baseplate from the 144 Hollows I got direct from NHS three ish months ago, were all creaky and hard. They went through the soft initial stage, and then tightened up to where the are now.

It’s puzzling, but whatever… got some normal performing Indy’s now.
[close]


Yeah it is a funny one, some bushings and parts just work really well together, others not so well.

Been mixing and matching with a few setups, getting the 8.75 board dialled in and tried hollow hangers on the standard plates, which does work well, but I changed in a few sets of bushings, cause no matter what I tried, something was squeaking, then something else was creaking.

Checking and cleaning bushings, rubbing down all surfaces, wax some surfaces when things felt stiff, which then turned into a feeling like I had no bushings at all for a minute - thinking "What have I done" then cleaned them off, creaking returned, tried something else, gave up, left the board for a day or two, came back, skated it with no noise at all, next day creaking again...

Funny old thing, but I guess some bushings do just have different properties.  Even some of these ones I have are so much darker in colour, some very cloudy or almost murky orange, compared to the semi translucent orange of brand new ones.

Were all the ones you used the newer ones with rings on the inside of them, or older ones with the flat poured bubble look to the face of them?
Do you mean the rings on the bottom? If so they all have rings on the bottom.

Creachteach

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2053 on: March 31, 2024, 01:52:18 AM »
Expand Quote


Speaking of coloured baseplates, how would one go about removing the anodized finish on my forged baseplates?

I have the green Tony Hawk ones, but the green doesn’t go too well with every color deck.

Did look hella fresh on my Creature though.

[close]


I think you might be stuck wtih that colour - compared to starting out plain metal or even just simply painted, anodized metal takes a whole lot longer to try to get that coloured layer off.  You might be better just spray painting over them, than trying to get them back to silver.

Painting them might not work quite so well either, but it is easier than anything else.


People have used citri strip to remove the paint from other trucks really well, but you would have to check with whoever / hardware shop or manufacturer to see if that would take the anodized coating off.


Google:

What is the process of anodizing?
Anodising is an electrolytic process for producing thick oxide coatings, usually on aluminium and its alloys. The oxide layer is typically 5 to 25 μm in thickness and is used to give improved surface resistance to wear and corrosion, or as a decorative layer.

Turns out drain cleaner with potassium hydroxide and/or sodium hydroxide can actually take it right off.

This is literally two minutes of rubbing with a q tip.


Im too dumb to figure out how to make this drawing my profile pic.


Ant

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2054 on: March 31, 2024, 02:29:46 AM »
Oven cleaner works really well, in my experience.

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2055 on: March 31, 2024, 02:31:25 AM »
Is true that the problem with inverted kingpins is that the nuts are always getting loose??

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2056 on: March 31, 2024, 04:55:13 AM »

Funny old thing, but I guess some bushings do just have different properties.  Even some of these ones I have are so much darker in colour, some very cloudy or almost murky orange, compared to the semi translucent orange of brand new ones.

Were all the ones you used the newer ones with rings on the inside of them, or older ones with the flat poured bubble look to the face of them?

I've been experiencing these inconsistencies between two sets of new (rings) bushings too. Was not as obvious as with old vs. new, but one pair before current I could never get the bushings work like I wished, had to take bushings from my old trucks. On the other hand, current pair worked almost out of the box, after a one break-in session.

Creachteach

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2057 on: March 31, 2024, 08:41:03 AM »
I know no one asked, but here’s the results:




A little rough around the king pin mound. I should’ve filled the drain cleaner up so that I covered more area.
Im too dumb to figure out how to make this drawing my profile pic.


JugeL

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2058 on: March 31, 2024, 11:45:04 AM »
Is true that the problem with inverted kingpins is that the nuts are always getting loose??
Not been a problem for me. Only used Indys IKPs though

JM

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2059 on: March 31, 2024, 12:57:11 PM »
I know no one asked, but here’s the results:




A little rough around the king pin mound. I should’ve filled the drain cleaner up so that I covered more area.
Noice.

Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2060 on: March 31, 2024, 03:17:28 PM »
Expand Quote
Is true that the problem with inverted kingpins is that the nuts are always getting loose??
[close]
Not been a problem for me. Only used Indys IKPs though


Some people don't seem to have any problems at all with any inverted kingpin assembly, but most people who have run inverted kingpins for a while find sooner or later they have issues.


Others often find that the whole nut assembly in the baseplate gets loose, so not so much the nut itself, but the mounting around it ovals out, so the kingpin moves side to side, almost to the point of it feeling like bushings are not doing their job or the pivot cup is blown out, which in both cases it was not, on the set I had a roll on.

The solid and heavy landings in various tricks, be it crooks or whatever can cause more side to side pressure which then causes the kingpin to move a lot more than a fixed kingpin in a regular truck, so once it starts to move a bit, even slightly, then every hard landing to one side or other makes the kingpin move back and forth side to side, in the same way that deck bolts that are loose will oval out deck bolt holes in truck baseplates, which I think a lot more people have seen over any given period of time.


I found that when the kingpin was in fully, up to the last thread so it could not go any further, it seemed to hold a lot better, but some others were running the kingpin barely in, which didn't lock into the nut in the baseplate in the same way that a regular kingpin nut sits only half on and then loosens by itself.

Also consider how often some people swap out their kingpin nuts like it is nothing.  You can't do this on an inverted kingpin nut which is fixed into the baseplate, so when the nyloc starts to go, they have to use some locking product (like glue) or find some other way to keep the kingpin from moving in the baseplate nut.




Expand Quote

Funny old thing, but I guess some bushings do just have different properties.  Even some of these ones I have are so much darker in colour, some very cloudy or almost murky orange, compared to the semi translucent orange of brand new ones.

Were all the ones you used the newer ones with rings on the inside of them, or older ones with the flat poured bubble look to the face of them?
[close]

I've been experiencing these inconsistencies between two sets of new (rings) bushings too. Was not as obvious as with old vs. new, but one pair before current I could never get the bushings work like I wished, had to take bushings from my old trucks. On the other hand, current pair worked almost out of the box, after a one break-in session.


Yeah I recall you asking or getting frustrated with bushings before.  It is a funny thing, but who knows if it is certain compounds, or other factors that contribute to things working or not working with any given products.

I still find that a lot of people swap out stock bushings, no matter what trucks, so I do end up with a lot more unused or very lightly used stock bushings than I can ever find uses for, but it helps when someone comes back cause they have blown something out so I can easily just put in some others for them, or at least help them with used / spare parts I have round the place.


I can be such a stickler for trying to make some things work too - thinking "I can fix this somehow" but some things, I should just give up on and leave them, more than mess with them until they just drive me nuts, but in saying that, more often than not, I can usually find a way to fix something or at least make it work, which is better than just throwing the things out.




I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2061 on: March 31, 2024, 03:24:19 PM »
Expand Quote
I know no one asked, but here’s the results:




A little rough around the king pin mound. I should’ve filled the drain cleaner up so that I covered more area.
[close]
Noice.


Yeah for sure!!!

Always good to post something, especially if you have found something works, so others can do the same if or when needed.


Often I look at certain colourways of things and think "That looks cool for a minute" but more often than not I will always go back to something plain, simple, remove graphics from boards, wheels or change things out to not have to worry about certain colours or textures or whatever.

The simple life is easier for me in that regard.


I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

Bongwater Mojito

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2062 on: March 31, 2024, 08:46:18 PM »
I can be such a stickler for trying to make some things work too - thinking "I can fix this somehow" but some things, I should just give up on and leave them, more than mess with them until they just drive me nuts, but in saying that, more often than not, I can usually find a way to fix something or at least make it work, which is better than just throwing the things out.

I'm trying to learn out of this habit, as I don't have lot of time to skate, leave alone tinker with my setup. Apparently leaving some stuff on shelf and "re-finding" them months later helps, I guess it resets the itch of gear functioning "wrong" for you.

Trilogy

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2063 on: April 01, 2024, 02:08:47 AM »
Expand Quote
Expand Quote
Is true that the problem with inverted kingpins is that the nuts are always getting loose??
[close]
Not been a problem for me. Only used Indys IKPs though
[close]


Some people don't seem to have any problems at all with any inverted kingpin assembly, but most people who have run inverted kingpins for a while find sooner or later they have issues.


Others often find that the whole nut assembly in the baseplate gets loose, so not so much the nut itself, but the mounting around it ovals out, so the kingpin moves side to side, almost to the point of it feeling like bushings are not doing their job or the pivot cup is blown out, which in both cases it was not, on the set I had a roll on.

The solid and heavy landings in various tricks, be it crooks or whatever can cause more side to side pressure which then causes the kingpin to move a lot more than a fixed kingpin in a regular truck, so once it starts to move a bit, even slightly, then every hard landing to one side or other makes the kingpin move back and forth side to side, in the same way that deck bolts that are loose will oval out deck bolt holes in truck baseplates, which I think a lot more people have seen over any given period of time.


I found that when the kingpin was in fully, up to the last thread so it could not go any further, it seemed to hold a lot better, but some others were running the kingpin barely in, which didn't lock into the nut in the baseplate in the same way that a regular kingpin nut sits only half on and then loosens by itself.

Also consider how often some people swap out their kingpin nuts like it is nothing.  You can't do this on an inverted kingpin nut which is fixed into the baseplate, so when the nyloc starts to go, they have to use some locking product (like glue) or find some other way to keep the kingpin from moving in the baseplate nut.


Thank you for your reply!

Easy Slider

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2064 on: April 01, 2024, 09:35:02 AM »
I cleaned my bearings to day and noticed my trucks are pretty bent. They are forged hollows. I don't skate high impact, a three stair is the gnarliest drop they have ever seen. I am not heavy either... Is that a known thing on the hollows?
why come?

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Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2065 on: April 01, 2024, 02:40:16 PM »
I cleaned my bearings to day and noticed my trucks are pretty bent. They are forged hollows. I don't skate high impact, a three stair is the gnarliest drop they have ever seen. I am not heavy either... Is that a known thing on the hollows?


I can't recall ever hearing or seeing anything specific, but someone else I know has bent every single set of trucks, brands including Indy, Thunder, Venture in standard and hollow and even ti axles, not excessive heavy landings, so who knows with regard to quality of materials or other factors.

If they are still fairly clean looking, eg not worn down to axles, or within acceptable timeframes, you could hit up the NHS warranty department and put in a polite enquiry, or check with the shop you got them from, otherwise I will usually hammer them flat again and keep skating, on any I have had come through my hands that for whatever reason were not under warranty.

They might bend back again soon enough, but at least for now they are good and work without coning the wheels in weird ways.


I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

Tre

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2066 on: April 01, 2024, 09:24:20 PM »
Can you put an Indy forged hollow kingpin/baseplate onto and Indy mid hanger and still have clearance ?

Mbrimson88

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2067 on: April 02, 2024, 04:34:59 AM »
Can you put an Indy forged hollow kingpin/baseplate onto and Indy mid hanger and still have clearance ?


There is not much, when I did the mix and match thing, just to see if or what worked or didn't work.

The comparison is about 2 - 3 mm taller kingpin, so much like the older stage Indy trucks with very little kingpin clearance to begin with and none whatsoever once you do a few grinds.


People have put mid hangers on other baseplates, when the inverted kingpin blew out and their mid hanger was still almost new looking, but I would be getting an angle grinder to that kingpin and maybe even cutting down the top bushing, unless you can find some low tops to put on those trucks.


I talk too much about skateboards.  Sorry.

fs1/2cab

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2068 on: April 02, 2024, 05:54:37 AM »
Axel slipped on my damn 149 titaniums.

Guess I'm putting the thunders back on.

I thought axel slip was a thing of the past, or is this just another instance of questionable quality on the titaniums?

I rode some Indy 144 titaniums for about a year. Some day I realized, I had axle slip on both sides and my wheels always got tight. A few days later the damn axle broke on my front truck and sent me flying. I was so pissed, I took the trucks off and threw them in a bin, didn't even think about taking a photo. Now I am on Thunder 148 Hollow Lights with Indy bushings.
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Creachteach

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Re: The Indy Thread
« Reply #2069 on: April 02, 2024, 11:58:37 AM »
Oven cleaner works really well, in my experience.

Yes, I read that too while scouring through the internet.

Noice.

I think it’s kind of a neat hack to have on hand.


Yeah for sure!!!

Always good to post something, especially if you have found something works, so others can do the same if or when needed.


Often I look at certain colourways of things and think "That looks cool for a minute" but more often than not I will always go back to something plain, simple, remove graphics from boards, wheels or change things out to not have to worry about certain colours or textures or whatever.

The simple life is easier for me in that regard.

The sheer contrast of having the green baseplates on the background of the antihero orange eagle, just did not look very appealing. I think I’m much more into plain trucks and white wheels, as it’s so much easier to set up something and then later have second thoughts and do a rearrangement of parts.

Either this or just buy everything in black. Black wheels black trucks, and super black graphics. But that would probably get meh pretty quick.

I hope someone else finds this “hack” here useful somewhere down the road.

Also, it’s not like you can leave them in there unsupervised. Just a quick steep, maybe a minute or two and a scrub. Wear gloves for the love - if not for god, then just for your skin.

Im too dumb to figure out how to make this drawing my profile pic.