Wheels Thread

[Gandito405]

I’m so confused. My new RFs started doing the same thing, then they got lose again. It’s like I had to ride them in different directions, like I ride switch using my nose as the tail.

I want to try for another pair, but I don’t have time to keep sending them back. May just swear off this shape for good 😫

the only problem with mine is they will chuck off some.

[OhioGuy]

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I’m so confused. My new RFs started doing the same thing, then they got lose again. It’s like I had to ride them in different directions, like I ride switch using my nose as the tail.

I want to try for another pair, but I don’t have time to keep sending them back. May just swear off this shape for good 😫

[close]

the only problem with mine is they will chuck off some.

I must be having bad luck. Makes me want to get multiple pair and just combine the good wheels, but that’s madness.

———————

Any other brand make a wide wheel like the RFs? You know, besides OJ Chubbies.

[Sativa Lung]

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Loophole new drop today. They look like formula 4. I think it's the new formula that is supposed to be a better version of the old nfg formula. Waiting on a reply.

[close]

It’s probably completely unrelated to NFG, I doubt that the people currently making Loopholes are intricately aware of how NFG handled their urethane production

[close]

If NFG owners are out of business with no plans to reopen then they may have gifted the formula to Loophole. I guess only a rider of both would feel the difference.

Well that's a pretty wild bit of speculation based on absolutely nothing lmao.

The NFG guys shut down but from the way they were talking the hope is to get back up and running some day if it makes economic sense. They tried to do the crowd funding thing but no one seemed to care about it. I barely even saw it get posted on here. I think most people at that time thought f4 is perfect and couldn't possibly be improved on, especially by some random SF guys no one had ever heard of.

I don't think sharing their formula would change much - you can give the same recipe to two cooks and get massively different results based on workflow, tooling, and production environment.

Loophole went to creative urethane (like most smaller brands) for a while but as someone said the new ones look like HLC's new formula and match the shapes from the OEM catalog.

[OhioGuy]

One thing I noticed about these RFs is the bearings came out really easily. Contacted support again and gonna troubleshoot them this weekend. Will put in a different set of bearings and toss ‘em on my Thunders.

I don’t have high hopes though. So I’ll look for another wide wheel as a replacement. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[LebowskisRug]

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Loophole new drop today. They look like formula 4. I think it's the new formula that is supposed to be a better version of the old nfg formula. Waiting on a reply.

[close]

It’s probably completely unrelated to NFG, I doubt that the people currently making Loopholes are intricately aware of how NFG handled their urethane production

[close]

If NFG owners are out of business with no plans to reopen then they may have gifted the formula to Loophole. I guess only a rider of both would feel the difference.

[close]

Well that's a pretty wild bit of speculation based on absolutely nothing lmao.

The NFG guys shut down but from the way they were talking the hope is to get back up and running some day if it makes economic sense. They tried to do the crowd funding thing but no one seemed to care about it. I barely even saw it get posted on here. I think most people at that time thought f4 is perfect and couldn't possibly be improved on, especially by some random SF guys no one had ever heard of.

I don't think sharing their formula would change much - you can give the same recipe to two cooks and get massively different results based on workflow, tooling, and production environment.

Loophole went to creative urethane (like most smaller brands) for a while but as someone said the new ones look like HLC's new formula and match the shapes from the OEM catalog.

Their wheel shapes were good, but their QC was terrible. My first set was 2mm smaller than advertised, second set the wheels ranged in size by .75mm across the set, and all sets had bubbles. My 3rd set was the best, but they weren't necessarily better than F4. They were kinda plugging the fact that one of them worked at Spitfire before and that the formula was basically Formula 5 and maybe it was, but it wasn't any better. Then they got into the bushing business for some reason instead of improving their QC and availability and the bushings were a huge dud.

[Xen]

Aight gods, seeing how the topic is being somewhat discussed I figured I might as well ask.

I film a bunch and went from Keyframes to Dragons (i have the 56mm wide ones)because sometimes Im skating around hills and shit on my filmer/cruiser board and I need to be able to slide but still mantain that cruiser wheel feeling. Although the Dragons where a game.changer for me they are still a bit sticky sometimes. Is there a wheel that is slightly harder but still has that cruiser wheel feel??? I was thinking of trying out the F4 97s but dont know if they would be too hard? Im not really familiar with the Bones roster and Im seeing a lot of their options being mentioned.

So if anyone has any recommendations itd be greatly appreciated.

Bones X97s without a doubt. It's a superior 97a wheel to other offerings, especially the spit 97a (sorry diehards) as x97s slide better and crush rough terrain by comparison. Spit 97a might have an edge on smooth terrain speed-wise, but it would be marginal at best.

[GS77]

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Loophole new drop today. They look like formula 4. I think it's the new formula that is supposed to be a better version of the old nfg formula. Waiting on a reply.

[close]

It’s probably completely unrelated to NFG, I doubt that the people currently making Loopholes are intricately aware of how NFG handled their urethane production

[close]

If NFG owners are out of business with no plans to reopen then they may have gifted the formula to Loophole. I guess only a rider of both would feel the difference.

[close]

Well that's a pretty wild bit of speculation based on absolutely nothing lmao.

The NFG guys shut down but from the way they were talking the hope is to get back up and running some day if it makes economic sense. They tried to do the crowd funding thing but no one seemed to care about it. I barely even saw it get posted on here. I think most people at that time thought f4 is perfect and couldn't possibly be improved on, especially by some random SF guys no one had ever heard of.

I don't think sharing their formula would change much - you can give the same recipe to two cooks

So, they are hoping to continue their business but need crowd funding and nobody seems to care. Sounds like they don’t have much future.

Also, urethane chemistry does not vary based on equipment. We have processing plants all over the world. It’s all about the formula. You pour a liquid into a mold and allow it to harden. That’s it.

[Mbrimson88]

One thing I noticed about these RFs is the bearings came out really easily. Contacted support again and gonna troubleshoot them this weekend. Will put in a different set of bearings and toss ‘em on my Thunders.

I don’t have high hopes though. So I’ll look for another wide wheel as a replacement. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Just checking (as per that other thread) if you cleaned off the outside of the bearings and bearing seats with alcohol based something, just so there was no residue of lube, oil or anything else?

I feel like this worked for a few other 97 duro and softer wheels I had, after reading that thread and trying it.

Seemed to work better than what I had initially done, which was use Race Reds or similar fitted bearings with built in spacers that could be run with no play and keep the wheels spinning, no matter what they did.


Guessing it would vary from set to set too, but on the few sets of those I have had and set up / skated / passed on to others, I didn't find that I had too many issues like that with them, but I know how easily it happes, especially with softer duro wheels.

[OhioGuy]

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One thing I noticed about these RFs is the bearings came out really easily. Contacted support again and gonna troubleshoot them this weekend. Will put in a different set of bearings and toss ‘em on my Thunders.

I don’t have high hopes though. So I’ll look for another wide wheel as a replacement. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[close]

Just checking (as per that other thread) if you cleaned off the outside of the bearings and bearing seats with alcohol based something, just so there was no residue of lube, oil or anything else?

I feel like this worked for a few other 97 duro and softer wheels I had, after reading that thread and trying it.

Seemed to work better than what I had initially done, which was use Race Reds or similar fitted bearings with built in spacers that could be run with no play and keep the wheels spinning, no matter what they did.


Guessing it would vary from set to set too, but on the few sets of those I have had and set up / skated / passed on to others, I didn't find that I had too many issues like that with them, but I know how easily it happes, especially with softer duro wheels.

Didn’t clean inside the wheels cause they’re new, but the bearings have no grease on them. I bathed them in alcohol yesterday before installing them. I’ve ordered some lock-in fulls since they were $35 with free shipping on TGM. I’m hoping that they use a different mold for them. No other pair of Spitfires has ever given me issues. Just the RF shape. It’s odd.

My bearings are two month old Bones Swiss 6, so I know they’re not the issue. They worked flawlessly with the OJ Hardlines last week. But the RFs locked up again ten minutes into my session. It’s wild. They must have a defect issue.

[Mbrimson88]

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One thing I noticed about these RFs is the bearings came out really easily. Contacted support again and gonna troubleshoot them this weekend. Will put in a different set of bearings and toss ‘em on my Thunders.

I don’t have high hopes though. So I’ll look for another wide wheel as a replacement. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[close]

Just checking (as per that other thread) if you cleaned off the outside of the bearings and bearing seats with alcohol based something, just so there was no residue of lube, oil or anything else?

I feel like this worked for a few other 97 duro and softer wheels I had, after reading that thread and trying it.

Seemed to work better than what I had initially done, which was use Race Reds or similar fitted bearings with built in spacers that could be run with no play and keep the wheels spinning, no matter what they did.


Guessing it would vary from set to set too, but on the few sets of those I have had and set up / skated / passed on to others, I didn't find that I had too many issues like that with them, but I know how easily it happes, especially with softer duro wheels.

[close]

Didn’t clean inside the wheels cause they’re new, but the bearings have no grease on them. I bathed them in alcohol yesterday before installing them. I’ve ordered some lock-in fulls since they were $35 with free shipping on TGM. I’m hoping that they use a different mold for them. No other pair of Spitfires has ever given me issues. Just the RF shape. It’s odd.

My bearings are two month old Bones Swiss 6, so I know they’re not the issue. They worked flawlessly with the OJ Hardlines last week. But the RFs locked up again ten minutes into my session. It’s wild. They must have a defect issue.

Bottom line is you should not have to go to special efforts or lengths just to have a product work for you.

Get wheels out of packet, put bearings in wheels, put wheels on axles, tighten nuts to where you want and skate.

Having to do this and that or whatever else just to have something work as it normally should is not a big deal if there is not a fault with the product, but having bearing seats too wide, or having incorrectly seated bearings in a wheel are definitely not things I would want to have to deal with.

As you said, NOT the bearings at all, just the wheels.

Good luck with them.  I could see others getting pissed way more quickly than you and swearing off wheel brands entirely in the past from other things like that.

[OhioGuy]

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One thing I noticed about these RFs is the bearings came out really easily. Contacted support again and gonna troubleshoot them this weekend. Will put in a different set of bearings and toss ‘em on my Thunders.

I don’t have high hopes though. So I’ll look for another wide wheel as a replacement. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[close]

Just checking (as per that other thread) if you cleaned off the outside of the bearings and bearing seats with alcohol based something, just so there was no residue of lube, oil or anything else?

I feel like this worked for a few other 97 duro and softer wheels I had, after reading that thread and trying it.

Seemed to work better than what I had initially done, which was use Race Reds or similar fitted bearings with built in spacers that could be run with no play and keep the wheels spinning, no matter what they did.


Guessing it would vary from set to set too, but on the few sets of those I have had and set up / skated / passed on to others, I didn't find that I had too many issues like that with them, but I know how easily it happes, especially with softer duro wheels.

[close]

Didn’t clean inside the wheels cause they’re new, but the bearings have no grease on them. I bathed them in alcohol yesterday before installing them. I’ve ordered some lock-in fulls since they were $35 with free shipping on TGM. I’m hoping that they use a different mold for them. No other pair of Spitfires has ever given me issues. Just the RF shape. It’s odd.

My bearings are two month old Bones Swiss 6, so I know they’re not the issue. They worked flawlessly with the OJ Hardlines last week. But the RFs locked up again ten minutes into my session. It’s wild. They must have a defect issue.

[close]

Bottom line is you should not have to go to special efforts or lengths just to have a product work for you.

Get wheels out of packet, put bearings in wheels, put wheels on axles, tighten nuts to where you want and skate.

Having to do this and that or whatever else just to have something work as it normally should is not a big deal if there is not a fault with the product, but having bearing seats too wide, or having incorrectly seated bearings in a wheel are definitely not things I would want to have to deal with.

As you said, NOT the bearings at all, just the wheels.

Good luck with them.  I could see others getting pissed way more quickly than you and swearing off wheel brands entirely in the past from other things like that.

If this were my first experience with them I would swear 'em off. But the tablets are some of my favorite wheels. I've had a pair for almost two years on another setup. They work flawlessly.

The 97a RFs are probably worse than the 99a ones. They don't seem popular, so I imagine if there's an issue many folks won't notice 🥴

If my "experiments" fail (something I shouldn't have to do, as you said, they should just work), I'll be sending both pairs back and asking for another shape to keep as a backup.

[toe_knee]

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Loophole new drop today. They look like formula 4. I think it's the new formula that is supposed to be a better version of the old nfg formula. Waiting on a reply.

[close]

It’s probably completely unrelated to NFG, I doubt that the people currently making Loopholes are intricately aware of how NFG handled their urethane production

[close]

If NFG owners are out of business with no plans to reopen then they may have gifted the formula to Loophole. I guess only a rider of both would feel the difference.

[close]

Well that's a pretty wild bit of speculation based on absolutely nothing lmao.

The NFG guys shut down but from the way they were talking the hope is to get back up and running some day if it makes economic sense. They tried to do the crowd funding thing but no one seemed to care about it. I barely even saw it get posted on here. I think most people at that time thought f4 is perfect and couldn't possibly be improved on, especially by some random SF guys no one had ever heard of.

I don't think sharing their formula would change much - you can give the same recipe to two cooks

[close]

So, they are hoping to continue their business but need crowd funding and nobody seems to care. Sounds like they don’t have much future.

Also, urethane chemistry does not vary based on equipment. We have processing plants all over the world. It’s all about the formula. You pour a liquid into a mold and allow it to harden. That’s it.

Really sucks about loophole, I really liked that formula it worked well with the dusty ditches and skateparks/diys that I skate here in Texas, my friends would be squirreling around with F4s and I’d be alright and still able to slide well, I will echo that dude with the hsu switch tre in his sig and say that the QC definitely needed some work, I got a set that I couldn’t keep a bearing in, and the bubbles too, but I just rode them out, that being said the shop that hooks me up is getting their new stuff so I’ll be able to at least support them while they are still around, yea with all the problems they’ve been having seems like they were kinda destined to fail

[OhioGuy]

I was thinking about my wheel issue more this morning, and thought for a second, what if it IS the bearings?

Would loosening the axel nut fix a seized bearing? Cause when I do that my wheel spins freely again.

So I don’t think it’s the bearings.

Idk, these damn wheels got me second guessing myself. These Swiss 6 work fine in my other wheels.

[Musicaldeath107]

I was thinking about my wheel issue more this morning, and thought for a second, what if it IS the bearings?

Would loosening the axel nut fix a seized bearing? Cause when I do that my wheel spins freely again.

So I don’t think it’s the bearings.

Idk, these damn wheels got me second guessing myself. These Swiss 6 work fine in my other wheels.

How old are your trucks? Could it be axle slip?

[OhioGuy]

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I was thinking about my wheel issue more this morning, and thought for a second, what if it IS the bearings?

Would loosening the axel nut fix a seized bearing? Cause when I do that my wheel spins freely again.

So I don’t think it’s the bearings.

Idk, these damn wheels got me second guessing myself. These Swiss 6 work fine in my other wheels.

[close]

How old are your trucks? Could it be axle slip?

Almost two years old. But the issue doesn’t happen with other wheels. Plus I mostly cruise and do no complys, so they look newish still. Do don’t think it’s axle slip, I thought that at first, though.

[LebowskisRug]

I don't think that is normal. Honestly tho, skateboard components are designed for people that weigh 70-100lbs less so naturally you're going to have a few more issues.

Wheels do have residue from the mold releaser on them. Bones washes their wheels after they're molded which gets the super white appearance. I don't know if Spitfire does. This is not uncommon- PU indoor rock climbing holds also have this coating and it's enough to where all holds should be washed with soap and water or scrubbed with isopropyl when they're new because they can be decently slippery.

[OhioGuy]

Confirmed. It’s the RFs. Went out with new bearings, new truck, hell, new setup and they still slowed down on me. Sending a video off to Deluxe.

This happens after I do a few shuv-its. And it can’t even be my weight cause I just did it a bunch without jumping on to test is out. I’d only catch them with one foot.

Super bummed that this shape and size appears to be a bust. Oh well, at least I know my Indy’s and Swiss aren’t the issue 😁

[LebowskisRug]

Sounds like it's not weight and the issue I had with a set of Classic Fulls. I could grab the wheel with my hand and lightly twist it and bind the wheel completely. I could skate in a straight line, lightly chirp the wheel, and it would bind. Shit happens and hopefully your next set, like all mine have been since, are great.

I'm not bringing up weight to shame or be an asshole. When I was into bikes people would often post about breaking things or components not being stiff enough and would leave weight out then when it's disclosed you realize they were near or over the recommended design limits and it wasn't a faulty component.

[rocklobster]

I have a suspicion the Radial or Radial Full mold at the factor need to be replaced or re-calibrated, I recall when the Spitfire Oski Scorched Radial wheel first came out (late 2021 / early 2022) some guys on here reported their bearing seats were uneven. A friend of mine even showed me a video of his and his wheel was spinning unevenly, looked like it was wobbling and way slower than usual.

[OhioGuy]

I have a suspicion the Radial or Radial Full mold at the factor need to be replaced or re-calibrated, I recall when the Spitfire Oski Scorched Radial wheel first came out (late 2021 / early 2022) some guys on here reported their bearing seats were uneven. A friend of mine even showed me a video of his and his wheel was spinning unevenly, looked like it was wobbling and way slower than usual.

Think mine did too. I stared at them, but was unsure if it was the paint job or the wheels being off, but to the naked eye they looked wobbly as hell. Thought it was my OCD so I didn’t bring it up here lol

[JM]

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One thing I noticed about these RFs is the bearings came out really easily. Contacted support again and gonna troubleshoot them this weekend. Will put in a different set of bearings and toss ‘em on my Thunders.

I don’t have high hopes though. So I’ll look for another wide wheel as a replacement. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[close]

Just checking (as per that other thread) if you cleaned off the outside of the bearings and bearing seats with alcohol based something, just so there was no residue of lube, oil or anything else?

I feel like this worked for a few other 97 duro and softer wheels I had, after reading that thread and trying it.

Seemed to work better than what I had initially done, which was use Race Reds or similar fitted bearings with built in spacers that could be run with no play and keep the wheels spinning, no matter what they did.


Guessing it would vary from set to set too, but on the few sets of those I have had and set up / skated / passed on to others, I didn't find that I had too many issues like that with them, but I know how easily it happes, especially with softer duro wheels.

[close]

Didn’t clean inside the wheels cause they’re new, but the bearings have no grease on them. I bathed them in alcohol yesterday before installing them. I’ve ordered some lock-in fulls since they were $35 with free shipping on TGM. I’m hoping that they use a different mold for them. No other pair of Spitfires has ever given me issues. Just the RF shape. It’s odd.

My bearings are two month old Bones Swiss 6, so I know they’re not the issue. They worked flawlessly with the OJ Hardlines last week. But the RFs locked up again ten minutes into my session. It’s wild. They must have a defect issue.

Sorry if you already answered: do you use bearing spacers?

What happens with my bones Swiss on always one wheel, is that the bearing will come out a bit and push against the but… “locking” it. I have to turn board on side and push the wheel so it goes back the half mm, and it loosens up again.

I tried without spacers and it helped, but what helped the most was tightening the bolt so that there is only a hairline (I mean HAIRline) space of play in the wheel so it barely moves at all… and now when I power slide or Skitch out, most of the time it doesn’t pop out and lock the wheel. 

I think the bearing spacers on both F4 and bones wheels causing the issue because it doesn’t sit perfectly as it should in the wheels.

Just a thought

[OhioGuy]

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One thing I noticed about these RFs is the bearings came out really easily. Contacted support again and gonna troubleshoot them this weekend. Will put in a different set of bearings and toss ‘em on my Thunders.

I don’t have high hopes though. So I’ll look for another wide wheel as a replacement. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[close]

Just checking (as per that other thread) if you cleaned off the outside of the bearings and bearing seats with alcohol based something, just so there was no residue of lube, oil or anything else?

I feel like this worked for a few other 97 duro and softer wheels I had, after reading that thread and trying it.

Seemed to work better than what I had initially done, which was use Race Reds or similar fitted bearings with built in spacers that could be run with no play and keep the wheels spinning, no matter what they did.


Guessing it would vary from set to set too, but on the few sets of those I have had and set up / skated / passed on to others, I didn't find that I had too many issues like that with them, but I know how easily it happes, especially with softer duro wheels.

[close]

Didn’t clean inside the wheels cause they’re new, but the bearings have no grease on them. I bathed them in alcohol yesterday before installing them. I’ve ordered some lock-in fulls since they were $35 with free shipping on TGM. I’m hoping that they use a different mold for them. No other pair of Spitfires has ever given me issues. Just the RF shape. It’s odd.

My bearings are two month old Bones Swiss 6, so I know they’re not the issue. They worked flawlessly with the OJ Hardlines last week. But the RFs locked up again ten minutes into my session. It’s wild. They must have a defect issue.

[close]

Sorry if you already answered: do you use bearing spacers?

What happens with my bones Swiss on always one wheel, is that the bearing will come out a bit and push against the but… “locking” it. I have to turn board on side and push the wheel so it goes back the half mm, and it loosens up again.

I tried without spacers and it helped, but what helped the most was tightening the bolt so that there is only a hairline (I mean HAIRline) space of play in the wheel so it barely moves at all… and now when I power slide or Skitch out, most of the time it doesn’t pop out and lock the wheel. 

I think the bearing spacers on both F4 and bones wheels causing the issue because it doesn’t sit perfectly as it should in the wheels.

Just a thought

Yeah I use spacers and ride the wheels with a little play. These are the only wheels to ever give me trouble.

[LebowskisRug]

Delete the spacers as a first order. I have found they can be too long for Spitfires and the bearings never seat. They are completely unnecessary for skateboard wheels and often cause more issues than they prevent.

[OhioGuy]

Took the spacers out of the other ones and they still locked up. I just ordered a bearing press from Amazon. On the off chance that I install my bearings wrong. Doubt that’s the case, but it’s annoying using the trucks.

[Trail]

Has anyone here tried Sabbath wheels?

https://sabbathwheels.co.uk/

[JM]

Took the spacers out of the other ones and they still locked up. I just ordered a bearing press from Amazon. On the off chance that I install my bearings wrong. Doubt that’s the case, but it’s annoying using the trucks.

Right on. Try the tightening nut all the way until the wheel stops spinning easily, and then give it a quarter turn looser, so there’s juuuuuust enough play in wheel for it to spin freely.

I’ve found that when the wheel has more play between truck and nut, it allows the bearings to pop out under stress.

[Mbrimson88]

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Took the spacers out of the other ones and they still locked up. I just ordered a bearing press from Amazon. On the off chance that I install my bearings wrong. Doubt that’s the case, but it’s annoying using the trucks.

[close]

Right on. Try the tightening nut all the way until the wheel stops spinning easily, and then give it a quarter turn looser, so there’s juuuuuust enough play in wheel for it to spin freely.

I’ve found that when the wheel has more play between truck and nut, it allows the bearings to pop out under stress.

Yes, that and Race Reds were the go to I had done before for wheels that have loose bearing seats, as in any wheel that the bearing either falls out of or moves.

At least the wheel has centered bearing seats, unlike some other faulty wheels where the bearing seat on one side is a little off center, which means you can't get the wheel on fully - instant return for exchange, etc.

The biggest issues with the loose bearing seat usually mean that the person with the issue is often none the wiser, just like OhioGuy here, first thinking is it axle slip (which hasn't really been an issue for a while now in most trucks) or that the bearings are bad, or something else is going on.

Ideally, having no movement will lessen the slip and still allow the wheel to spin, if not freely, at least somewhat, compared to almost zero wheel movement in some other wheels I have had and seen, which is why I had used the bearings like Race Reds with extended middle spacer bits before.

From the thread about bearings moving in bearing seats, it was established that any truck, any bearing, just different wheels, could have this problem, or no problem at all, so one solution another guy did was clean out the inside of the wheel bearing seat and clean off the outside of the bearings and this resolved some wheel problems for some sets, but not others.

I would just say that these wheels have that issue, and best to send them back, more so than try and try again with any other fix, only to have them maybe do the same thing or worse further down the line, maybe at a time when you can't send them back.


That other thread:

https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=125264.0

[Mbrimson88]

Got my replacement wheels. Let’s hope these also don’t lock up. I love this shape. Hopefully it being slightly softer helps too in this cold weather. I only skate smooth tennis courts, but there’s lots of leafs and those spinner things on them lately since it’s fall.

So just checking, which wheels did you have before - Kader puffs in what size?

I see you now have Radial Full 97 duro 54 mm, which are having the same issue?


The set of the Radial Full 97 duro 54 mm wheels I have are doing fine, as are some Kader puffs I got too (thankfully) but it is definitely something to check and make sure, as per other sets I have that I am yet to skate / setup, which I am going to just make sure the bearings are seated correctly, rather than sit on them indefinitely and then realise that there is a problem with them later on.

[Cthulhu!]

Speaking of Loophole...
Since they are very probably using hlc, thank you for posting the catalog a few pages ago,
https://mfg.hlcdist.com/wp-content/uploads/catalogos/hlc-oem-catalogue-skateboard.pdf

I couldn't help but notice that on Loophole's site they're saying all of their new wheels are 100a. Cross checking with the catalog, the MT shape for example, only comes in at 98a. But what does a Butter formula feel like? I sent them a message but they didn't answer of course. Shops around here don't carry them, so ordering and getting an unwanted surprise isn't much fun. How conflicting. I may just end up buying F4s again.

[Gandito405]

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I’m so confused. My new RFs started doing the same thing, then they got lose again. It’s like I had to ride them in different directions, like I ride switch using my nose as the tail.

I want to try for another pair, but I don’t have time to keep sending them back. May just swear off this shape for good 😫

[close]

the only problem with mine is they will chuck off some.

[close]

I must be having bad luck. Makes me want to get multiple pair and just combine the good wheels, but that’s madness.

———————

Any other brand make a wide wheel like the RFs? You know, besides OJ Chubbies.

this guy has like 4 setups with them he does a pretty good breakdown of the issues hes faced.