Joining the chorus suggesting using the old school pattern holes of a baseplate. If you line it up and mark everything right, before drilling (preferably lined up straight on a drill press), this can be pretty accurate, and it's about as far as you would want to adjust it.
Think back to Paul Schmitt's explanations of "fingers of flat" after the holes, before a nose or tail actually kicks up.
Moving that changes the geometry of the pendulum, how your snap performs. Can be good or bad to you depending on your tastes. But moving wheelbases up to 1in. like you had mentioned, Ok the O.P., will make a nose go from like 2 fingers standard-ish, to 4 fingers. That'll make your nose a full inch longer (which could be nice on a stubby nose late 80's board reissue, but weird on a normal 7in. length nose) but if the board has a modern concave the full inch will make the nose look and perform... weird. That's why i've stuck to the 0.375in. shortening (difference in old school and new school holes). It's made the slightly-shaped Welcome decks I've always wanted to skate, but all seem to have 14.75in. wheelbases, suddenly a skateable 14.375in.
If you are worried about breaking boards because of weakening the wood with holes so close together... plug the holes! I've done that many times. Either glue in a dowel into the holes and cut them flush, or carefully fill the holes with an epoxy putty or material like JB Weld. That will at least "backfill" to limit any wood deflection into the extra holes from the pressures applied from skateboarding.