Bolts With Small Heads = Not Good

[Abyss1]

Love the junk science in Slap threads lol. Said this before but drop of glue on the nuts when mounting... save yourself the bother of loose baseplates...

Shalom science
...also not sure but I’ve noticed I always strip the screw when the heads are to small as I tighten...always get bummed on stripped screws and can’t get them to fit screw driver tips tightly (yes I tighten bolt side and it still happens)

[Vintagebody]

Love the junk science in Slap threads lol. Said this before but drop of glue on the nuts when mounting... save yourself the bother of loose baseplates...

Problem is that griptape is not a hard material, nor is the the deck. Over time, the sunk will become looser from  the different forces. If you use a good amount of glue at the head, so it forms to the countersunk hole and everything, then it will be better.

Now, with bigger bolt heads, like Indy's, this problem is much less.

[HugeBodBoyle]

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Speaking of bolts, head size, etc...

Am I the only one annoyed by the grip bunching up around the bolt if you try to get the bolt close to fllush? Doesn't happen all the time, but with common bolts and Mob, it was happening to me all the time.

So what I do now is pre-mount my trucks before gripping, so the bolt sucks into the wood like it would normally when you set up a board, it creates a chamfer to the hole. Take the trucks off and grip the board, the grip kinda sinks into the chamfer better when you do it beforehand. Then when you mount your trucks again, the bolts seat nicely and grip doesn't pucker nearly as much.

I know that seems "extra"... but when combined with a larger head bolt like Vintagebody is talking about, it hasn't failed me in my last 7 or 8 decks.

[close]

this also bums me out.


i grip, poke holes & then use a big Phillips to clean up the holes.


also don't spin bolt.

That's how I do it. Taking pride in your grip work is nice.

[Vintagebody]

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Love the junk science in Slap threads lol. Said this before but drop of glue on the nuts when mounting... save yourself the bother of loose baseplates...

[close]

Shalom science
...also not sure but I’ve noticed I always strip the screw when the heads are to small as I tighten...always get bummed on stripped screws and can’t get them to fit screw driver tips tightly (yes I tighten bolt side and it still happens)

Philips is not bad, but it doesnt take much force. You could say it works as intended when you strip the bolt head  Its purpose is for the screwdriver/bit to slip out, instead of potentially snapping the bolt. They are simply a weak design. Hex is good, Torx is best. I wish there was Torx skate bolts.

[FROTHY]

I have no clue how I worked at a skateshop and regularly gripped boards before Mob grip without fucking them up. What I do know is that we, like most skateshops, had a dedicated bolt-hole poker. It's basically a screwdriver turned into a shank from filing the edge of the griptape. Skate companies sell all sorts of useless swag, but nobody has capitalized on the bolt-hole shank market....

[HugeBodBoyle]

This past weekend I watched a dude roll up to the park on a fairly new board with tie dye grip on it, but he was conspicuously holding a new sheet of Shake Junt. I was not prepared for what followed-

He ripped off the tie dye grip, sticking the pieces to the side of the hubba. Then he just put the Shake Junt over his bolts and DID NOT CUT IT. Just skated the rest of the session on a board with a massive rectangle of grip on his deck all flopping around. 

[PAWL]

This past weekend I watched a dude roll up to the park on a fairly new board with tie dye grip on it, but he was conspicuously holding a new sheet of Shake Junt. I was not prepared for what followed-

He ripped off the tie dye grip, sticking the pieces to the side of the hubba. Then he just put the Shake Junt over his bolts and DID NOT CUT IT. Just skated the rest of the session on a board with a massive rectangle of grip on his deck all flopping around.

well at least now you know who to ask if you want to get some acid

[Ok]

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This past weekend I watched a dude roll up to the park on a fairly new board with tie dye grip on it, but he was conspicuously holding a new sheet of Shake Junt. I was not prepared for what followed-

He ripped off the tie dye grip, sticking the pieces to the side of the hubba. Then he just put the Shake Junt over his bolts and DID NOT CUT IT. Just skated the rest of the session on a board with a massive rectangle of grip on his deck all flopping around.

[close]

well at least now you know who to ask if you want to get some acid

I go to skateparks, and suffer, shamefully attempting slow switch flips in the corner, in hopes of seeing this type of situation. Something about skateparks....kids that need to meet up with their dealer? Why not the skatepark? Especially if neither party skates. This all may be more true in less metro places.


Frothy very correct with the shank recommendation. Big help.

[Vintagebody]

I advice against using anything but a needle to make holes. Smaller holes will give more griptape material to act as dampning material for the bolt, especially if its smaller heads.

[tom]

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Love the junk science in Slap threads lol. Said this before but drop of glue on the nuts when mounting... save yourself the bother of loose baseplates...

[close]

Shalom science
...also not sure but I’ve noticed I always strip the screw when the heads are to small as I tighten...always get bummed on stripped screws and can’t get them to fit screw driver tips tightly (yes I tighten bolt side and it still happens)

Different Phillips head bolts might take a different Phillips driver size. Using one too big or too small can strip the head. If you have a drill use the torque setting to find your sweet spot

[fang]

You're all nuts with the exception of this guy:

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I'm actually the opposite. I prefer the smaller bolt head. Strictly for the look down factor. That's why I like diamond hardware. 7/8 Allen. Doesn't seem to loosen up any faster than a fat head.

[close]

Shortys 7/8 allen lights forever.

This is not an opinion, this is a fact

[authentic_creed_bratton]

who remembers randoms? this shit ruled

[Diocletian]

I’m confused on what you guys mean, bigger or smaller bolt heads? Aren’t they all the same size just different lengths? Some are just threaded all the way to the head, others only threaded 3/4 of the way. The nuts are also the same except those 7/8” shortys they use slim ones which are great but I always have to press down hard with my tool or else it doesn’t grab the nut sometimes when turning and slips off. I agree with some of the comments, always hold the bolt in place and turn the nut.

[lysdexia]

I’m confused on what you guys mean, bigger or smaller bolt heads? Aren’t they all the same size just different lengths?

different brands have different sized heads.  indy bolts are substantially larger than diamond or shortys for example.

I like the small stuff way better, from a purely aesthetic standpoint.  i've never had a problem stemming from the head diameter.

[Ok]

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I’m confused on what you guys mean, bigger or smaller bolt heads? Aren’t they all the same size just different lengths?

[close]

different brands have different sized heads.  indy bolts are substantially larger than diamond or shortys for example.

I like the small stuff way better, from a purely aesthetic standpoint.  i've never had a problem stemming from the head diameter.

In modern times I’ve always chosen 7/8 Allen, but this thread is making me want the round, like domed, Phillips that I see when I’m looking at early 80’s setups

[stets]

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Speaking of bolts, head size, etc...

[close]

In the time it takes you to do this you could just drive to Home Depot and get a drill with some countersink bits. Alternatively, just don't use sucky phillips hardware- use allen (harder to strip & more secure when mounting) and hold it tight while you tighten the nuts down and your grip won't get all fucked up

Yeah, only the closest hardware store is over 20 min away, so that's not accurate. Also, I'm aware of countersink bits, I've used one helping make the screws on a friend's new ramp flush with the skatelight. My main worry about a true countersink is removing material rather than just compressing it... in my "armchair science" theory, cutting the material away would make the board weaker than compressing it down.

[Sativa Lung]

A little while back I looked into bulk hardware and lucked out by finding 1" Allen on closeout at grainger. 100 bolts for 96 cents, so I bought out the rest of the inventory. Matte black, but if I want a colored bolt I just use nail polish or one of those metallic ink sharpies.

They have nice wide heads and don't sink down through the grip or twist it when you tighten them. I'm not 100% confident that they wouldn't bend on a 15 stair or something but I'm never going to find out so they're perfect for me. If anyone wants/needs a few sets then just shoot me a pm.

[Xen]

You're all nuts with the exception of this guy:

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I'm actually the opposite. I prefer the smaller bolt head. Strictly for the look down factor. That's why I like diamond hardware. 7/8 Allen. Doesn't seem to loosen up any faster than a fat head.

[close]

Shortys 7/8 allen lights forever.

[Skateboard Shuffle]

Put the nut on the top side of the board. Problem solved. Plus it helps with sweet ollies and provides more grip.

[legion]

Big head and/or Phillips bolts scream Walmart complete.

I like Shortys cuz the smooth shank portion is longer than other bolts. Wanna compare Thunders or just try 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" to get the shank part completely into the baseplate. Idc if I gotta cut some new threads or cut the bolt down..

For new bolts I usually cycle them a few times and then let them sit overnight. This gives them their initial stretch so they don't stretch and loosen later. It's a gearhead thing..
I mount trucks on an ungripped decks first, I don't grip over the bolts.. This also dents/countersinks the bolt holes like a Dwindle double impact deck. Helps to get your bolts flusher and compresses the wood so that's not happening when you mount your shit.
Tighten bolts in a star pattern like mounting a car tire.. 4-lug wheel..
Tighten in stages and feel for a uniform amount of torque.
Try to get the bolts flush with the grip or a tiny bit lower.
My shit rarely loosens up and I never break bolts.

The thinner nuts that Shortys use might not stay as tight as the regular height stuff.

Griptape grit under the bolt head can also cause loosening as it breaks up over time.

[hillbilly shifty]

I love the Indy combi bolts, they can use either allen or phillips tool, and the shank is solid like shorty's.
Not sure Indy makes them anymore, but i have a few sets in both 1" and 7/8"
If i'm running the 7/8" with cast plates, i use the thin shorty's nuts with them. Allows the bolt to come above the nylon of the nut a bit more.
Here's a shot of them, with a Shorty placed on top of one to compare head sizes.
(my OCD requires that the 'cross' on all bolt heads are all exactly aligned north/south to the nose/tail)

[Diocletian]

I've been running shorty's 7/8 or 1" phillips for pretty much my entire life and never even noticed they have a smaller bolt head. Mind=blown

[layzieyez]

Theeve titanium hardware. Allen.

[moonordie]

I'm pretty aware that I'm a maniac but thankfully I've never cared about hardware as long they're 1" or 7/8" worst case scenario.

[kneebone]

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You're all nuts with the exception of this guy:

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I'm actually the opposite. I prefer the smaller bolt head. Strictly for the look down factor. That's why I like diamond hardware. 7/8 Allen. Doesn't seem to loosen up any faster than a fat head.

[close]

Shortys 7/8 allen lights forever.

[close]

This is not an opinion, this is a fact